You saved my bacon, I just installed a new crate 3.0 Mercruiser in my Searay and it would not start. Watched your video and did exactly as you said and BAM! She started right up and purred like a kitten. You have a new and very grateful follower. Thank you
Can I just say that this video helped me out majorly! I have a 1983 OMC 2.5 that is new to me. I have never messed with points or ignition timing before. After watching this video I did the exact same as you and it fired right up! Thank you so much. Love your old boat videos. Timing light adjustment is next!
YOU!!!! You riiiiight there! YOU F'N ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!! \m/ Thank you!!!!! It's little things like this they just don't teach in school :) Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Merry Festivus, Happy New Year and a Goony GooGoo :) You just finished off a my full 1987 2.5 rebuild!
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina The engine did get started and then stalled probably a fuel issue but it wont start again. Does the rotor point directly under the #1 wire connector?
You can put the number one anywhere on distributor that you want that doesn't make it easier for the next guy as long as everything is wired from the number one position to the correct cylinder it should fire just fine at least that's what I've learned. I'm working on a boat as well where the number one is in the number two position so I just wired it 1342 from there and the boat runs immaculate
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thank you for your videos though. They have been very helpful on my journey. Now if I can just get the 3.0 OMC Cobra to stop rocking so hard at idle. Ordered a new coil pack. Set timing to 8° BTDC new cap rotor wires and plugs. Rebuilt and adjusted Holley Carb. Running out of options. Runs excellent when throttling up... Just a nice shake at idle.
@@MrPerry1980did you remedy the rough shake at idle? Mine does as well. Runs beautifully under throttle but have hard start issues and shake at idle. Looking to get an idea before getting it ready this season.
I just found your channel, thank you for the videos! I have a 1994 Mercrusier 3.0 litre. My issue is that when the boat is cold it runs and sounds good. After 3-5 minutes at full throttle I get some popping. I'll back the throttle down to no wake, the popping goes away and I hear a ticking that lasts for about five minutes and then it goes away. If I throttle up again, the popping will come back repeating the cycle. I think I had bad gas with ethanol. I started using non ethanol fuel, put a can of seafoam with each 5 gallon can of non ethanol gas. I replaced the fuel filter at the base of the engine and cleaned the filter inside the carb. I replaced the spark plugs. I changed the ignition coil but the problem persists. I will change the distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires as soon as the parts come in. Any ideas what could be the issue?
Believe it or not it cam with the boat. I purchased the boat from the 2nd owner that purchased it when it was about 5 years old. From what I have seen they are identical. Even the 140 OMC is the same thing.
@truman I have the original factory repair manual. 1987 Thunder Craft. My Mercruiser runs out of water, but out it in water, it won’t get passed 1700 rpm’s. Wants to die. I put new spark plugs in, pure gas, mechanic in a bottle and it still won’t get past 1700 rpm’s. I hope it’s my timing. I’ve never messed with timing. I knew I should have learned about timing when I saw that timing light in my dad’s toolbox 40 years ago. I’m in Nashville and it’s supposed to be 70 this weekend. I need to take my project boat out in the water for the 1st time since I’ve had it over a year now. Don’t ever take your boat to a car mechanic.
@truman, it runs 5 k rpms with the muffs on. That what I mean by: out of water. It’s a brand new impeller and was lubed. Under load, meaning in the lake, it won’t get past 1700 rpms. I think it’s the timing or the fuel pump.
So here’s my issue, the starter doesn’t crank anymore but I hear a clicking sound, do I need to check my distributor cap for corrosion or anything? Any help would be appreciated
If you turn the ignition key to start and all you hear is clicking from the starter solenoid then it could be one of three things. Low battery, bad starter motor, or the power is not passing through the starter solenoid to get to the starter. I would start with checking out your battery. Then if the battery is good go to the solenoid next and make sure you have 12 volts on both large terminal connections, one side will have 12 volts and the other won't until you turn the ignition switch to the start position. If you have voltage on both sides then it is most likely your starter motor. They can test your starter at most automotive stores.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I don't think you understand his point. He means if the distributor is turned 90 and the plug wires would are also off 90 so makes no difference.... they match. Everything is just 90 off top... but they still match up.
Hi how you doing that's very informational I appreciate that is there anyway you could tell me which color wires you have going to both sides of your coil? Or maybe even do a video on that? Great video!
If you have a strong spark and good compression (120 lbs plus) then carburetor and timing would be the next. Now you want to make sure the Carb is in great shape to make sure the timing can be set accurately.
The maid issue is it wasn't wired properly. Didn't affect the running of the motor but I need to have things right. It's just a me thing. Now I have switched it over to electronic ignition. Check out that video.
Stop playing with the screwdriver, set the rotor to where it should be and bump the engine over and eventually the distributor will drop down into the oil pump cause it’s already engaged with the cam.
You saved my bacon, I just installed a new crate 3.0 Mercruiser in my Searay and it would not start. Watched your video and did exactly as you said and BAM! She started right up and purred like a kitten. You have a new and very grateful follower. Thank you
Glad I could help
Thank you! Your video got my engine running. The wires were in completely the wrong places. It runs great now.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching
Can I just say that this video helped me out majorly! I have a 1983 OMC 2.5 that is new to me. I have never messed with points or ignition timing before. After watching this video I did the exact same as you and it fired right up! Thank you so much. Love your old boat videos. Timing light adjustment is next!
Glad it helped
You saved my boat from being sold. Thanks for the video, totally helped me fix my timing on my 1976 Sea Ray. You rock!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching and commenting
YOU!!!! You riiiiight there! YOU F'N ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!! \m/ Thank you!!!!! It's little things like this they just don't teach in school :) Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Merry Festivus, Happy New Year and a Goony GooGoo :) You just finished off a my full 1987 2.5 rebuild!
I appreciate that! thanks for watching
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina The engine did get started and then stalled probably a fuel issue but it wont start again. Does the rotor point directly under the #1 wire connector?
You can put the number one anywhere on distributor that you want that doesn't make it easier for the next guy as long as everything is wired from the number one position to the correct cylinder it should fire just fine at least that's what I've learned. I'm working on a boat as well where the number one is in the number two position so I just wired it 1342 from there and the boat runs immaculate
Absolutely correct. thanks for watching and sharing
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thank you for your videos though. They have been very helpful on my journey. Now if I can just get the 3.0 OMC Cobra to stop rocking so hard at idle. Ordered a new coil pack. Set timing to 8° BTDC new cap rotor wires and plugs. Rebuilt and adjusted Holley Carb. Running out of options. Runs excellent when throttling up... Just a nice shake at idle.
@@MrPerry1980did you remedy the rough shake at idle? Mine does as well. Runs beautifully under throttle but have hard start issues and shake at idle. Looking to get an idea before getting it ready this season.
Excellent video, thank you very much
Glad you liked it!
My motor runs at high rpm but dies at idle . I had some 1/2 ass marine mechanic screwing with my distributor . I'm gonna try this
You can do it.
I need to send you a pic to see if I have a problem. Can I do that? Thx
Were did you get info on #1 on cap.everything ive seen #1is on front outside nipple
Number 1 is front inside. I got it from the original original operation and maintenance book I got with my boat.
To find top dead center, could you put a screwdriver in cylinder one, then rotate engine? Screwdriver’s highest point would be TDC? Thanks.
You are correct sir..
Clymer makes mercruiser repair manuals. Last I seen autozone sold them.
I actually have the original manual that came with the boat. Rare find.
Do you have a second video of it running with the timing light? Did you move it to 8 degrees past TDC at idle?
I'd like to know too please!!
Yes he did in another video I believe
Did you ever post video of RUNNING it after?!?!
Oh yeah, It's every video with my 1976 Starcraft in it, thanks for watching
I just found your channel, thank you for the videos! I have a 1994 Mercrusier 3.0 litre. My issue is that when the boat is cold it runs and sounds good. After 3-5 minutes at full throttle I get some popping. I'll back the throttle down to no wake, the popping goes away and I hear a ticking that lasts for about five minutes and then it goes away. If I throttle up again, the popping will come back repeating the cycle. I think I had bad gas with ethanol. I started using non ethanol fuel, put a can of seafoam with each 5 gallon can of non ethanol gas. I replaced the fuel filter at the base of the engine and cleaned the filter inside the carb. I replaced the spark plugs. I changed the ignition coil but the problem persists. I will change the distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires as soon as the parts come in. Any ideas what could be the issue?
Timing
@@jrrains did you get it figured out
Believe it or not it cam with the boat. I purchased the boat from the 2nd owner that purchased it when it was about 5 years old. From what I have seen they are identical. Even the 140 OMC is the same thing.
@truman I’m confused
@truman I have the original factory repair manual. 1987 Thunder Craft. My Mercruiser runs out of water, but out it in water, it won’t get passed 1700 rpm’s. Wants to die. I put new spark plugs in, pure gas, mechanic in a bottle and it still won’t get past 1700 rpm’s. I hope it’s my timing. I’ve never messed with timing. I knew I should have learned about timing when I saw that timing light in my dad’s toolbox 40 years ago. I’m in Nashville and it’s supposed to be 70 this weekend. I need to take my project boat out in the water for the 1st time since I’ve had it over a year now. Don’t ever take your boat to a car mechanic.
@truman, it runs 5 k rpms with the muffs on. That what I mean by: out of water.
It’s a brand new impeller and was lubed.
Under load, meaning in the lake, it won’t get past 1700 rpms. I think it’s the timing or the fuel pump.
@truman when you coming to Nashville?
@truman UA-cam violation. What the heck for? G4S is hiring.
So here’s my issue, the starter doesn’t crank anymore but I hear a clicking sound, do I need to check my distributor cap for corrosion or anything? Any help would be appreciated
If you turn the ignition key to start and all you hear is clicking from the starter solenoid then it could be one of three things. Low battery, bad starter motor, or the power is not passing through the starter solenoid to get to the starter. I would start with checking out your battery. Then if the battery is good go to the solenoid next and make sure you have 12 volts on both large terminal connections, one side will have 12 volts and the other won't until you turn the ignition switch to the start position. If you have voltage on both sides then it is most likely your starter motor. They can test your starter at most automotive stores.
I need help hooking the battery up. Help?? Thx
Cant you Twist it and lock it down?
There is not enough movement for me to do that.
what tool is that you used to turn the pistons?
It was just a square pry bar I used on the hex head bolts on the water pump. Engine rolls over easy without spark plugs.
How do you know the wires just aren't off 90 degrees?
because I have the original owners manual and it shows a really nice diagram of where the #1 cylinder is on the distributor cap
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I don't think you understand his point. He means if the distributor is turned 90 and the plug wires would are also off 90 so makes no difference.... they match. Everything is just 90 off top... but they still match up.
Hi how you doing that's very informational I appreciate that is there anyway you could tell me which color wires you have going to both sides of your coil? Or maybe even do a video on that? Great video!
Check out my latest video on upgrading my boat to electronic ignition and you can see the color of the coil wires.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina do you have the link?
I will take a look this evening and let you know
You didn't have to move the distributor at all all you had to do was rewire it
What are the symptoms of a bad cap and rotor or coil? I have hard starts rough idle dies when idling.
If you have a strong spark and good compression (120 lbs plus) then carburetor and timing would be the next. Now you want to make sure the Carb is in great shape to make sure the timing can be set accurately.
Where did you get your book on mercruiser? I need one for a 140, i assume its nearly the same
Autozone last I seen sells Clymer mercruiser manuals.
Ebay just bought 1 $10
End creation I tune my engine like u sayed still won't start
Well there are a lot of things to consider
Do you have spark?
Do you have fuel?
How is the compression?
Email me so I can help out some more.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina whats your email
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina whats your email address
What issue was you having and this help
When I pulled the plug wires and wire it according to the book it was not correct. So me being who I am had to make it book correct.
The maid issue is it wasn't wired properly. Didn't affect the running of the motor but I need to have things right. It's just a me thing. Now I have switched it over to electronic ignition. Check out that video.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina it came from the factory wrong? Nooo?
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina that’s what I had done to mine but it would not get above 1700 rpms yesterday on the lake. It would backfire through carbs
What do you think my prob is? Tia
hey did you ever post a video of the timing process on this motor
I have not. I will post a video most likely by 6/15/18 showing how to do it on an OMC 3.0 which should be identical.
Wats the firing order
1-3-4-2
Stop playing with the screwdriver, set the rotor to where it should be and bump the engine over and eventually the distributor will drop down into the oil pump cause it’s already engaged with the cam.
We each have out own way of doing things. Thanks for watching. Sometimes when you are by yourself you do what you gotta do.