How To Overhaul Vintage Schwinn/Atom 440 Bike Pedals - Clean/Lube/New Bearings
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- Опубліковано 11 січ 2014
- I show how to take apart, clean, repair, replace bearings, lubricate, and reassemble vintage Schwinn bike pedals. These pedals are Atom 440's made in France. The toe clips are Schwinn Approved.
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Just so happens I had just overhauled the exact same model of pedals. Stumbled onto this video by accident afterwards . The 8 outboard and 11 inboard count is what was in my set. I repacked them with 10 outboard and 11 inboard bearings. 10 bearings set with a little grease to hold their position allows a test fit of the cone and after removing the cone there was still a plainly visible gap in the line up of bearings in the race. Atom figured 2 extra bearings would cost them their profitability.
My Atom 600 pedals were fitted with 10 bearings outboard and 11 inboard. The original ones were in perfectly good shape, so I reused them. Had this been a wheel or a bottom bracket, I'd have acquired new ones. Honestly, though, the pedals were fine before the overhaul. I only overhauled them for the learning experience.
your videos are great, they've been a fantastic resource as I work on refurbishing an old bike
Those cleaned up rather nicely! I got an old Schwinn in really good shape, mid '80's world sport, and am going to overhaul the pedals, they are in better shape than the ones you showed here, so should be just a take apart clean and relube reassemble job on mine. The bike seems to have never been ridden, just got some bugs due to 35 years of sitting neglected...thanks again RJ for all the sharp vids on how to stuff with these old bikes!!!
Bikes like this have one bad thing when it comes to being almost new from sitting in storage for decades. The grease goes bad. Someone could of rode it with bad grease which is about the same as riding it with no grease after it sat in storage. So for people buying a bike that is almost new, always check the pedals and wheel bearings by spinning the rims and pedals to be sure the bearings, races, and cones are just as excellent as the rest of the bike. You could be buying a bike with damaged parts that are also parts that are very hard to find.
I have a pair of these 440 petals that I'm going to take apart and use as foot pegs on a bobber motorcycle I'm building because they are are wider than the pegs I have now. thanks for showing me how to take the apart.
had these pedals on my 80's apollo 2 road bike but without the toe clip & strap those press fit dust caps used to get dented & fall off,my pedal caps had 2 extentions that had 2 screw holes to hold the cap in place,used to be referred to as bear trap pedals because of the serrated edges :)
Thanks a bunch I really needed this I had my own vintage Schwinn and needed to know which direction to turn it cuz it was on there tight.😁
this is great thank you
Very good instructions. I hand tighten up the cone nut so there is just a very small amount of play because when u tighten down the locknut it will put more pressure on the cone nut and take up that small amount of play... so go-ahead now and make some more great videos, thx.
Thank you for this video! I do have a problem tho as my pedals don’t have an end cap and I’m not quite sure if the spindle is even meant to be removed. The pedal is off an old varsity for reference
I decided to rebuild the pedals on my wife's bike after rebuilding the gear. I ran into the same odd number of bearing. I added bearings as well. I will be doing the other side pedal tomorrow. I am curious if it's the same.
Thanks for this. I had thought the inner nut/bearing race was pressed in so I tried to pound it out with a punch, obviously without success -_-
u r great.. love from india
Such a great vid. Thank you! I’ve got the same pedals but mine are a lot more rusted up then these were. Managed to get the reflectors off after hours but am now struggling with the metal caps on the end. Any ideas besides a screwdriver? I also don’t have a vice.
nice
After going thru a couple of sets of old pedals that were never oiled for maintenance I believe buying new pedals is they way to go. (or old new stock) if you can find them. Too much damage to fix for old crusty pedals. Modern pedals are pretty cool too !
Use grease for the bearings. Not oil.
Use grease, never oil on pedal bearings.
That is the kind of work that produces Zen. Not everyone can do it however.
Another great video, thank you - but why do you leave the twist in the strap? Does it stop the strap moving round or is it just because that's how it was when you took it apart?
Exactly. It keeps the strap from sliding .
Presumably this process would work for Atom 600 pedals as well? In this case, the straps are installed what most riders would call upside down or backwards. The usual orientation is such that the strap can be pulled outward to tighten. EDIT: My Atom 600 pedals have 10 bearings on the outside and 11 on the inside.
Some old pedals are welded when they are repaired!
Is there any way how to take of such pedals?
To work with a vintage pedal suitable only vintage pliers? :-)
Cone on the ball bearian.
As always, excellent video. I also have a question for you. I’m building an old Mongoose BMX and was fortunate enough to be given the stock SR-468 pedals but one of them has a slightly bent spindle. Have you ever managed to straighten a spindle, if that’s even possible, or replace it with another from an old junky pedal? I’d imagine as long as the length and cone thread size is the same I should be able to do it. Any advice is appreciated.
If the spindle is bent, replace the peddle. Unless the the other peddle is the same, the spindle probably wont be.
As it turned out the pedals were for 9/16” and I managed to find a crappy old set that actually had 1/2” SR branded spindles in them that matched up perfectly. Just dumb luck that I had them.
i just bought RFR Flat SLT, removed the old (default) plastic ones with a Knipex and i used Force oil( for chain) to grease. Should i use silicone vaseline instead ? i also ows PTFE spray for chain and a spray for fork, probably silicone based too.
thanks for answers.
Sorry, I don't know those pedals. For pedals with all metal stuff, I use marine grease. If there are plastic parts, I use silicone grease.
0:36 I didn't even know those wrench existed.
Thank you so much for this video! I just rebuilt my second pair of 440s using mainly your video for guidance. I do have a question about the amount of "play" that is acceptable? For mine to spin smoothly there is still just the slightest amount of play. Does there need to be No play at all?
You want them to turn smooth, not necessarily spin freely.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks, I will consider tightening the cones a little more. They just have the slightest give when I wiggle the axle. I just didn't know if they should have no wiggle at all?
There is a fine line between turning smoothly and no play.
A tiny bit of play is allowed, because the spindle bends a little when the rider puts pressure on the pedal.
I lubed mine and I don't think theyre so dirty
RJ, I have to maintain Union U40 pedals for my Bianchi. But there's no dust cap. It's one piece. What can I do?
Different pedal. I would have to work on it to tell you.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I discovered the reason why the dust cap was not removable. I cut that part with an angle grinder and I found no bolt, the cone was riveted. I would like to show you the image.
So I took other old pedals to re-use the spindles, and the locknut is half screwed in the axis, half is out of the axis. I think it is bad, right? The torque could shell the tread.
@@damianomartucci9814 Probably just replace the pedals.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I solved. I used 1/8 in bearings. Yes, I should. But I would like to maintain originality
I just impregnate the pedal with motor oil, let it soak in for a few hours and then set the pedals upside down and let all the oil drain out... Not even close to being the correct way but its definitely better than doing nothing at all..lol
Yup,,, my method also.
But do you really need to put that much grease in the cups of the pedal?
when I tie the nut, the cone is turning at same time. its impossible to hold the cone still with a wrench. So Whenever I try to tie the nut with the cone correctly placed it keeps turning along and its too tie ! any idea how to solve that ?
+Dominic Fortin Does yours not have a keyed washer between the cone and the lock nut?
No , no washer only the cône and nut.
Are you overhauling the same pedal as in my video? In that one, there was a keyed washer that separated the cone and lock nut.
no its a wellgo pedal but the mechanism is the same. Went to a bike shop today and the mechanic couldn't help me out..... lol
You will have to find a way to hold the cone while you tighten the lock nut.
goode video bud, but if u don't mind me saying so, ur voice reminds me & sounds like Drew Carey (no offense) 😏