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Best chain clean ever !!
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- Опубліковано 13 лют 2017
- Before applying the chain lubricant you need to clean your chain thoroughly. Once clean apply a wax based lubricant for best performance.
Reference charts....
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I was looking coal, but I found diamonds, your explanation it is an absolute best on the way you explain things through all the video. I was making a decision on what to buy, and I was about to buy the ultrasonic cleaner but, then you came with the results. I'll definitely will buy the chain cleaner because of you. I saw different opinions through Amazon and UA-cam, you know, usual stuff that makes you think. But you came up with a solution so clear, very detailed and explained that I have to say thank you and God bless you man. You've saved me thousands of dollars for the next years
Good to hear Carlo.
A true legend, one of the most down to earth cycling REAL TIPS channel. Kudos!
Hi just tried Your waxing on my hometrainer bike. it is sooo great. I started the chain in gasoline, then my ecological degreaser, then cellulose thinner, acetone, and a 1 hour cleansing in my ultrasonic cleaner with all the good stuff in. Ended up by boiling the chain for 10 minutes in water, the dried it. Man it was so clean you could use it for medical purposes. Put it in the hot wax for 1 hour, with lots of stirring, and just mounted it. Runs like a charm. Thanx for your great videos and always new ideas how to get the best cheapest. Keep up the good work. :-)
chains already looked clean...perhaps that says something about my bike maintenance
One of the most informative and well made Cycling tech tip vids on the Tube ... outstanding info and presentation - thanks mate and bless good old Aussie know how.
Rikitocker que os
It's people like you which has the potential to drive property value up, simply because of the value you bring. What a contribution.
Oz... I've learned so much from watching your videos. Thanks for taking the time to be objective with products and showing us cost effective ways to fully enjoy the sport. Cheers from the US!
Thanx Chris. Greetings from Australia too 😎
The petro chain clean is the way to go for sure! I let mine sit for 12-24 hours, rinsed it in MS, then waxed the chain using the DIY method and it worked perfectly. My wax barely gets dirty. The wax got dirty all of the time until I cleaned my chain with the petro. It worked so well I did the same thing to my husband's chain. we get asked all the time what we do to our chain. Yes, it's a bit of work up font, but once you have your set up going its fast and really simple. Thanks for this video OZ cycle. I have saved so much money using wax over buying oil and washing my bike all of the time.
Nice to hear its working for you guys 😁
Hello from Brisbane! Love your videos - some of the best bicycling advice around, I reckon.
I've been using your degreasing and paraffin wax method on a chain since new, and it is way better than the previous chain, so smooth.
I degrease and wax the chain when it needs it, which is after about 250 kilometres. There's no black build up ever, and the cassette always stays shiny, though I do degrease it every 500 km's because I feel like it, not that it needs it.
Thanks for all of your thorough experiments and good advice - great work mate!
+Rob Pennefather Thank you Rob,glad you like the vids. Yes the liquid wax method is good but if you can do the wax bath method (next video coming) its even better in all aspects.
Lots of effort went into making this vid and regardless of some protestations about scientific method etc. (some people seem to default to whinging rather than showing gratitude), I got a lot out of it and appreciate your time and effort. My son and I do the maintenance for our family mtn bikes (4) + my roadie and are always looking for better ways to keep our bikes running well and lasting longer. So big thanks and cheers from Sydney - Dave & young Will
Hi Dave and family. Glad the vids are helpful for you's. There are always viewers who negatively comment before actually trying how its done in vid.
See you at the Tour Down Under?
@@stevenleffanue Just human nature at play I suppose. We'll be in Melbourne during the TDU but will get there one day. We spent last week cycling around Canberra - my daughter (6) did a couple of 22 kayers and a 42k around the city and my son (8) and I did some additional sessions around Stromlo where he really pushed himself to do the loops without stopping, including a number of full climbs of Stromlo and even ran over a brown snake across the track. We are now kitting up to do some self-supported bike camping trips. Love it that you're keen to share your hard earned wisdom with us amateurs and now we need it more than ever. Cheers - Dave
Well done! 😎 ...thats quite a big distance for your kids.
@@stevenleffanue Thanks mate - no computer games, TV or iPads and you magically end up with fit, engaged kids who love being outside and can push themselves like you wouldn't believe [
ant]. Today I installed quick release links onto all our bikes so I can properly clean our chains, cassettes, rings etc. on the strength of your videos. Is it normal to get this excited about bike maintenance?? About to head to Port Macquarie for a week of riding, mountain biking etc. - can't wait. Cheers and thanks again big time, Dave
I agree....my kids were brought up on a farm,climbing trees,bonfires,up early milking goats,etc,etc. Kids learn so much more about life than a screen could ever give them.
Nice you got the links,make cleaning so much easier. Have a good time at Pr Macquarie.
I really liked the thorough comparison of different methods and their effectiveness. I have stopped using petrochemicals however, even though they do the job very well.
I just don't think the cleanest/most efficient bike is worth the environmental cost of having pollutants leached into the soil, streams and organisms. As there are biodegradable options now availabe, I've been sticking to those instead. I don't run top of the range components and I just make sure everything is cleaned when needed.
Exactly, I'm with ya
Could you please share what these options are? Thanks
@@scuba453 I use citrus degreaser for the chain. Weldite and other brands make it. It derives from citrus peels.
Other products like the muc off degreaser work slightly better and claim to be biodegradable, however, they have hydrocarbons. Many products with volatile hydrocarbons are labelled as inherently biodegradable in the SDS, but that is very different from being readily biodegradable... Muc off boasts about being green, but looking at the ingredients list and their SDS shows a different picture... I've asked them to clarify the SDS against their marketing claims, but got not reply...
I've tried a few lubes and green oil is one of the best which is not petrochemical based. Both wet and dry. I also tried the WPL dry lube, but it lasts next to nothing no matter how it's applied.
I want to check Peatys (some of their range claims to be readily bio)and Kingud eventually...
@@nluisa thanks for the detailed reply. much appreciated. happy biking!
Hello from England, great video, thorough testing, I'm convinced. Please keep up the good work. Cheers👍
+tiptopstuff Giday tiptopstuff from Australia :)
Hi Oz , i have been watching DIY vdos on cycle maintenance , and specially the chain cleaning, and you have been by far the best in all the youtube channels that i have subscribed to ,i did make the chain cleaning container not exactly like yours but still made my own version for it , but what helped is the idea , the mesh was like a saving grace in the conatiner for cleaning smaller parts which can easily be lost or dropped, cut to the chase , i did it bought a 9 speed missing link, cleant the chain like you mentioned in your VDO and now my ridding is so smooth and effortless ..... A BIG BIG BIG THANK YOU > your the best teacher a double thumps up for you ...
and yes the first step towards it was your VDO on wax lube , and my search for xylene ... thanks for everything
Very scientifically done. Bravo. I thought the ultrasonic cleaner would be the hands down winner, but it's nice to know that good old gasoline will do the trick, followed by an IP alcohol soak.
Ive been using the gasoline and paraffin method for this season, on your advice, and I love it. It repels dusty dirt and keeps the drive train very clean. It takes me a couple weeks to start hearing when it needs a redo. Good stuff. Thx
+Patrick Ford Glad to hear and thanx for your feedback Patrick. :)
if you can hear chain wear, you have waited too long to lube.
looks like I'm going to save a bunch of money and have a cleaner chain.
sounds like a win to me.
thanks for the great videos.
This is the best chain lubricant because my bike chain is well lubricated and silent. The chain is also very clean compared with the previous wet lubricant I used. Therefore I do not have to clean the chain after every 60-kilometre ride. In fact, I do not clean the chain anymore. I do not mind to tell you I never wash my bike. This lubricant is easy and cheap to make. The only thing I do not like is my wife will give me a shelling when I make the chain wax lubricant because the kitchen will smell of wax. Now I would make it when she is not around. Thank You so much, oz cycle.
Oh, I post the above remarks in the wrong section. It should in the section where you oz cycle show how to make this chain waz lubricant. Tk.
Was surprised that the winner was not the ultrasonic cleaner. Great test and great video!
THANKS! I've been clean chains the 'homemade" method for decades, but I never knew it was as good as you have shown. Well I don't do quite your method. I use paraffin. I used to use gasoline when a was a kid. Paraffin (kerosene) is less volatile. Sediment settles on the bottom of the tank, and I can recycle an almost clear jar of the stuff by decanting into a second jar. (I guess you could to the same with gasoline, but, but one has to apply more caution.)
Greetings from Belgium, Europe. Your videos really opened my eyes, from now on, I'll do it your way! Thanks for sharing your know-how!
+Frank Van Damme Hi Frank from Australia. Glad you find the vids helpful. Cheers.
I found your videos very helpful. This has been definitely one of my favorite. I like your style, pretty straight forward and friendly to the every cyclist. I can't wait to share your channel with my friends. Keep it up! Greetings from México!
+Alejandro Badillo Thanx Alejandro. G'day mate from Australia :)
oz cycl
Greeting from the US of A! Very nice video. I have been using WD40 to degrease the chain and then use the clip-on brush cleaner with dish soap to clean the chain. Despite all that I will still have black stain on my finger by touching the chain. I am going to try the homemade method now; that seems to be highly effective and simple enough.
Excellent video. I've been using various home made shakers to clean my chains for years. I just don't like using gasoline but I Do often use gasoline +two stroke oil mix left over from my chainsaws fuel supply. After cleaning the chain I filter the gasoline oil mix through coffee filter paper to remove the residue and then run it in the chain saw. There's two fuel filters between tank and carb so the gasoline is the easiest to get rid of for me. Keep up the great practical tips. Moe people should try your ideas because I've been doing many of these things for years including making my own chain lube :thumbsup:
the one HUGE advantage for the plastic chain cleaner...you can leave it on your bicycle! ...i'm not sure i'm strong enough to worry about the 5 watts! :) however, this was a very interesting video and enjoyed it from start to finish!
+DFTA (Don't Feed The Animals) Your right,most people dont take their chain off to clean so the clip on chain cleaner is so convienient.
I use a clip on cleaner, the Parktools CM 5.2 is amazing, you can eat off the chain before you re-oil it and it took me 50 minutes from start to finish.
DFTA (Don't Feed The Animals) in my experience, you get all the chain residue in your jockey wheels, rear cassette/fw from the plastic chain cleaner. Just me though lol
djeondj - I agree 100%, I spend a good amount of time cleaning those as well. I like how into this discussion we all are. Of course, all of our methods are still better than those poor neglected bicycles you hear squeaking down the street! :)
Thanks for making and sharing this video comparison...
They all do a great job of cleaning.
I do feel that the brush system is half baked. You still need to clean the cassette and the chain ring. With the chain on, not so easy.
The homemade cleaner you can also use a jar to clean the cassette. The disadvantage with the homemade cleaner is the responsible disposal of the gas.
Both the homemade method and the ultrasonic bath also allows for cleaning multiply parts including the cassette and easily access the chainring and jockey wheels.
I feel that the ultrasonic cleaner allows for that drivetrain maintenance to be performed easily at the same time with less of an environmental concern.
For chains without rubber o rings. Take one glass jar, fill 3/4 with old petrol, place in chain and leave to soak. Place lid on and shake a few times. After a few minutes chain is brand new. Refit and oil, I use 3in1. Has worked for 20+ years. No fiddly gadgets. Just simplicity.
If your going to store your chain, for whatever reason, place in press seal bag, add some oil and seal. Chain stays clean and lubed up. When ready just wipe and fit.
Wish I saw this a day ago. Just ordered one of the park tool chain cleaner and solution combo. ..
Excellent video. It's very thorough, and I love the attention to detail. If I had the room to doo all of that, then I would, and I just might after getting my new chain in a week or so.
However, and this of course doesn't clean and lube as well as the steps done here.
Hello everyone. My name is Andrew, and I use WD40 on my chain. I tried to stop, but it is just so damn convenient. I spray it only on the chain and let it sit to loosen up the grime while I give the whole bike a good scrubbing after a ride. Once I dry the bike I power wash the chain with the highest setting on the water hose to blast out the majority of gunk while rotating the chain backwards. With a dry towel, I wrap the chain, and dry it by rotating the chain backwards again. After the chain is dry, I spray a light coat of WD40 on it again. Then wrap the dry towel around the chain to remove most of the WD40 from outside of the chain, leaving it as dry as possible. The pins will have WD40 on the inside where it is important, but the outside won't, leaving my cycling clothes spiffy cuz that is what's important ;)
I use Simple Green in my 120 degree (F) ultrasonic bath. Then soak it in hot water followed by a good rinse and dry. If I am still getting residue when wiping dry, it goes into the ultrasonic cleaner again to repeat the process. Then, I simply soak the chain overnight with Liquid Wrench Cable and Chain Lube. I let it hang and drip for a couple of hours and then wipe it off before installing it. It's worked for me as long as I can remember. And I ALWAYS clean my cassette and chain rings each time. No point in contaminating my clean chain with those being dirty.
Agreed. I just cleaned my chain in my ultrasonic cleaner and the 2nd 15 minute cleaning still had a lot of grease left behind. I kind of wish I had done it a 3rd time to see what would happen. Thanks for the video.
I use a chain cleaner device thing and it does great.. Although you seem to barely use any chemical in it. I fill it until it overflows and then run it through, and repeat a few times when it all splashes out of the holes. I can run it through a soapy cloth without any black being left on the cloth.
+dan110024 I tried filling it up more,dan,but same thing...it spilled out,so for the video I put the recomended level.
oz cycle yeah they tend to do that. Mine is larger so it takes longer to empty itself, but messy nonetheless. Does a good job though after a few cycles of it and after a rinse with soapy water.
Excellent video; very much appreciated indeed.
Cheers from snow covered Philadelphia
a good way to do additional cleaning... when you have the chain hanging, spray it heavily with brake cleaner spray... that will blast out any remaining crud. it also drys quickly with no film.
This is AWESOME video. Very detailed. Great comparison. I like this.
If you're paying AU$150+ for an ultra sonic cleaner, you're buying a rather expensive one. Additionally, you're getting one that allows you to put every single piece of your chain equipment into it at that. And your pedals, crank set and probably everything else you'd want cleaned, including your entire tool set.
And there's nothing stopping you from using a different mix of chemicals either.
However, the main advantage of the ultra sonic cleaner over the homemade cleaner, is that you're not left inhaling unhealthy fumes, polluting your lot or accidentally leaving something around that your kids will decide to either sniff or drink.
Wear a mask?
IMO the ultrasonic cleaner is the best route. After about 150-200 miles and definitely after a ride, I just take it off, throw it in the ultrasonic for an hour, do some light cleaning to the bike and take a shower. By the time I'm done with all of that I can take it out, let it dry, and paraffin wax it and slap it back on my bike.
WD-40 changes from a solvent that penetrates into a thick grease that lubricates after a couple weeks of the volatile components evaporating. This makes it ideal for a chain because it will penetrate down to the o-rings and be held there by it's surface tension until it changes to grease. Only the excess will fling off if the chain is used before the conversion process takes place. I spray it on my bike chains with cardboard under the chain to catch the over spray. This cleans the chain. Then, I wipe off the excess, leaving the small amount that penetrated.
It, also, is an excellent anti-oxidant to prevent rubber cracking from oxidation. I use it on my motorcycle seat before winter storage and it prevents cracking. Salt spray testing in an environmental lab showed it to be the best at corrosion prevention.
i swear i read this comment on another chain vid lol, from what i've read inc. a few v helpful comments from other WD-40-onlyists I think I'm gna stick to simple regular frequent and liberal application of WD-40 for my new chain on my new bike too
bicycle chains don't have o rings motorcycle chains do. i believe wd-40 is petroleum based although its apparently safe on rubber i still would use it if anything it would promote cracking
I'm going to climb Norton with a giant helium balloon attached and go for the KOM.😑
Made a batch of the paraffin lube and I cannot believe how clean it has remained and that I can change the viscosity so it doesn't spray or drip...thank you very much for your tutorial....
+TheCrossroads09 Give Harley a run for his money up Nortons :)
Harley is a vile human being.
oz cycle: How about combining the ultrasonic machine AND homemade cleaner?
used to do petrol clean in 1970. Obviously the chain clean tool is best. I have one and breaking a chain and reconnecting will take longer than the tool. also the author proved the stuff is from the middle is not touching the drivetrain. Also my chains have no holes. I can clean 5 times as often since it requires that much less time and not considering time to go and buy breaker links.
Thanks
Suggested above to 2 bike stores earlier today and was “laughed” out the stores.
They instead said use their biodegradable chain soap on a bottle. Needless to say, I did not buy any 😊 Im an old machine mechanic and my wifes new chain will get the “petrol and alcohol” tumble 👍
Inexperienced bike mechanics 😆
Have to agree with the lubricant statement, paraffin is great, I just started use pure paraffin although Oz means some paraffin oil should be added, in any case the friction is among the lowest you can get and above all the drivetrain stays clean! No more oil/dirt mix gunking up the drivetrain and the bike cleaning is easier than ever!
Build myself the Homemade Cleaner and clean it it "Bremsenreiniger" in German ;) also mean Brake Cleaner. There is kind of Petrol and another thing´s in it. But i choose for 1€ a Pencil Holder with a small Grid outside, (so i can clean another Part´s) and a thin can for 2€.
My wax is made out of Tealights (8 of it) and Mineral Lamp Oil.
It is on my Bike at Monday 13.2.17 and the Condition are dry and cold.
My chain look´s very clean and all the other Part´s on it =)
To Friday we maybe get wet condition and im exited how the chain will look like =)
Ride ~6km it isnt much but the chain can get very dirty even on this short distance.
Oh and it is really a much smoother ride and gear change... absolute love it.
Happy to see you next time =P
I ussaly use mineral spirits to clean mine . and a coffee filter after the junk settles and poor it back in the big bottle
First time watching your content and i gotta say, you got an entertaining bodylanguage
Great video, shock result. Old style wins !!
I start by cleaning my chain with petrol. I let is soak for a couple of days and shaking it randomly over those days. Then I soak it in brake cleaner shaking it randomly which works really well. Then i put it in the ultrasonic cleaner in isopropyl alcohol. Then chain is then as clean as it is going to get.
That's right, and did you know petroleum never ever breaks down, because once the dirt and grime is removed, it's then returned to it's 'natural' lubricating state. The more dirt.. the more wear. Just think of all the oil we've discarded over the years, when it could've been centrifuged and re-used many times over; such as, aboard ships at sea (HELLO).
I love it when the best approach is also the easiest one!
You may be the most serious but funny bike cleaner ever!
interesting video if you're interested in this type of thing. I can only imagine that it took a bunch of time in setup, filming and editing. given the effort weighing the chains pre and post clean would be worthwhile imo, also identifying the # links in each (I assume the same?). measuring the terps and standardised shaking... maybe too much. thanks
Have you gone mad, sir? You think if one has two more links than another that it will make a difference in the cleaning results?
@@BPoweredLove chain does not need to be ultra/super/hiper clean, for first cleaning if switch from oil to wax, gaseline/petrol is good to remove all important dirts that matters, when chain is on wax, no need for that deep cleaning, just rewax 2 times and all dirt will go out of chain, i need 8 minutes to make 2 passes of wax on chain installed on bike by useing inductive heater that heats up chain in few seconds and then can be aplied wax
@@BPoweredLove The chains looked the same length whilst they were hanging to dry, to me.
ANOTHER BRILLIANT VIDEO -Thanks
Hi Oz Cycle, if you were in Canada, this video could almost qualify for the Red Green show for handyman corner if it were slightly less thought out. However, I still cringe just a little at using some of these petroleum products. But at the end of the day, I would like to discern they difference in clean chains from a best methods vs best solvents. I still get out the old nail brush and give the chain a good scrub.
+SlowBoyAthlete Petrol cleans best...try it....no need for scrubbing. Degrease after and its ready for the wax.
With the Red Green Show.... we need the chainsaw running in the background. Just for that Northern ON/BC/MB/NB/SK/ AB did I get them all?? EFFECT! Makes me homesick! Hah a ha ha
love the dummy bike idea. i knew there was a use for them old bikes. will be giving that a try as soon a possible. thanx
These results can be debated. Different cleaning agents were used for the different methods.
Also the ultra sonic can have made particles inside the chain loose and when "rinsing" the chains in the end it came out whereas those same particles were still sticking inside the chain in the other chains.
I am not saying this is fact, it is speculation however the methods will depend on cleaning fluids used as well so I would not count out the ultrasonic cleaner so fast.
I for one would NOT use petrol as a cleaner simply because it is environmentally unfriendly and my apartment would reek of petrol.
By taking the chains apart and look at them under magnification after the first cleaning method you would have some more data.
The faulty logic in this test is amazing. An unsafe degreaser/cleaner (gasoline) is used in the homemade cleaning device. It leaves a film and so a second degreaser is required to remove the film left by the gasoline. And yet the author concludes the homemade method works better than the ultrasonic cleaner when the ultrasonic cleaner was used improperly and yet it still equaled the effectiveness of the homemade method when the ultrasonic cleaning time was doubled. How much extra time was required to use a secondary degreaser to remove the gasoline film from the chain? That increase in time and cost of the homemade method was never factored into the comparison.
The ultrasonic cleaner may require a little more time (but we can't be sure because the author did not appear to use the correct fluid level -- with the correct level it may not have required any more time). But, in the end (after the extra time) the ultrasonic cleaner achieved just as good a result as the homemade device yet offered a HUGE advantage: It achieved its good results with a safe degreaser and cleaner. No risk to health. No fire hazard. No risk to the environment. No requirement to use a second degreaser to clean the film left by the gasoline.
I appreciate Oz Cycling. The author has produced some very insightful and helpful videos. My favorite videos address composite frames and components. Kudos and thanks to Oz Cycling for the great content. Sadly, this video is not among the good ones. And the original Oz video demonstrating the homemade cleaning device is even worse. In that video we see the author splashing gasoline on his ungloved hands. Imagine if he had splashed the gasoline in his eyes as he shook his homemade device! He never cautions the users to the risks of gasoline. Nor does he explain that gasoline will melt some plastics, therefore the user must be careful that the container they select for their homemade cleaning device is approved for gasoline. My advice: Remove those videos. Modify the homemade method so it works with a "safe" degreaser/cleaner that does not require a secondary degreasing. Then shoot new videos with the improved method. This will serve your viewers much better.
The homemade method may truly be the "winner" if it is modified for safe use at home by do-it-yourselfers.
+D.Eldon Petrol still cleans way better than my ultrasonic cleaner...tried and tested over at least six months. Try it for yourself...pull the chain apart after the clean and you will see which leaves cleaner pins and rollers.
Sure, gasoline dissolves grease and oil faster than the "safe" degreaser you used in the ultrasonic cleaner. No dispute there. The problem is: gasoline use presents risks to health, safety and the environment. If you base your degreaser selection only on effectiveness as a degreaser, then why limit yourself to gasoline? Why not use acetone or MEK or toluene? They are each more effective than gasoline. I think the reason you're using gasoline is because it's cheap, plentiful and it's the "easy" choice if you don't care about your health, safety or the environment. I'd hate to think what you'd use if acetone, MEK or toluene were cheaper and more plentiful than gasoline! I respectfully recommend that you not advocate the use of strong, unsafe degreasers like gasoline for degreasing bike parts.
So far, this video has illustrated the opposite of what you intended. It shows that the Oz Cycling homemade cleaning device works so poorly that it requires a strong, unsafe degreaser.
+D.Eldon The petrol used in the 'Homemade cleaner is about 300mL. It is reused 4-6 times before needing to be discarded. So 50mL - 60mL per use...quite conservative. Yes Petrol is cheap and available worldwide,unlike a lot of other cleaners.
+D.Eldon The petrol used in the 'Homemade cleaner is about 300mL. It is reused 4-6 times before needing to be discarded. So 50mL - 60mL per use...quite conservative. Yes Petrol is cheap and available worldwide,unlike a lot of other cleaners.
Michael Smedley
Typical whataboutism.
The main commentary was making a good point: always use as best method not only the most effective but also the least environmentally harmful one.
I always used to think a brand new chain that was greased was fine to leave however i was told to get that sticky crap off! Everything stuck on your new chain. Soak it gas or thinner over night shake it and make sure its good. Then apply the lube you want
What a great video! Thanks for this in detail experiment and advice!
Petrochemical solvents like petrol, turps or kero, are very good at dissolving most oils and waxes but are no good at dissolving water and water is no good at dissolving oils and waxes. Degreaser and water is only a mediocre solvent for oils and waxes because water is a polar molecule and oil isn't. All the degreaser does is weaken the molecular polarization a little. Same issue with green cleaners as they are water based. Alcohol, is a petrochemical chain that has a hydroxyl on the hydro carbon chain. The hydroxyl part of the molecule is polarized. Therefore, alcohol will dissolve water and visa versa but alcohol can dissolve a small number of oils and waxes, usually only some vegetable or synthetic ones, not mineral. For example, caster oil is soluble in methanol but requires physical agitation to do so. If you think about this, it partly explains the results. Using petrol, degreaser and water steps, combines different solvent bases so will flush material that is impeded in these bases. If you were to then use alcohol to flush the water, the chain would then dry much faster due to alcohols higher evaporation rate. Yep, organic chemistry 1976.
When I was young, I used kero as a 1st clean and degrease. It was cheap then but isn't now. Petrol is kind of dangerous, it doesn't take much to ignite the vapor and is pretty hazardous for the body. I generally take the chain off, soak and swirl it in turps these days as it's quicker than using cleaners that are ineffective oil and wax solvents. I would agree with using degreaser after that. The in line chain cleaner is largely ineffective because the small volume of solvent limits the dispersion of material cleaned off the chain and a lot of that material gets caught on the gears and jockey wheels to re-contaminate the chain. That makes a big job, uses a lot of rags, wipes etc and you still can't be sure you got it all. This is my main reason for taking the chain off the bike to clean. Thank goodness for quick links. I'm sure some people can point out exceptions, the principal of incompatibility between polar and non polar molecules is only a generalisation for the majority of cases.
Thanks for that excellent comment ! Just to clarify. You soak in mineral turpentine then soak in degreaser as well?
Unfortunately not all of us have quick links on our chains so that they can be removed.
you complicate simple situation, if you use wax, you can clean chain with wax, take a look on my coment to Mr. Miss
@@khalilrazak6486 I never had a quick link on my chains 30 years, my bike I'm building will as I am embarrassed at my chain and cassette are black!
Khalil Razak
A quick link costs almost nothing and installs with ease. There’s no excuse for not having a quick link :)
What works quite effective and withless waste, is brake cleaner. I just use the automotive grade stuff, spray it, brush it, soak it overnight and the chain will be as clean as ever. To make sure no residue is left on the chain, spray with alcohol and there you go. The best thing is that alcohol and brake cleaner evaporate except the grease and dirt, which can be disposed much easier than petroleum, gas or mineral spirit.
Ok. Serious question. What chain link do you use? I was looking at a KMC one for my Campagnolo 11 speed but they suggest to replace them after 2 breaks. What is your experience with master links and what do u recommend? I always use a brush cleaner as Campagnolo don't recommend the Master link..
+WalrusRider Wipperman connex make the best removable link,Jon. All stainless,removable with just your fingers and last longest. Im still using same links after about 15,000km. Compatable with all chains too.
I would use the second one because you can keep it on your bike and it does just the same as all the others
Just use Dawn dish soap and hit it with compressed air to dry. Works great.
Nice ORBEA bike!! Greetings from Spain.
Just a general comment about cleaning and relubricating.
Many years (decades) ago automobile wheel bearings had a notoriously short life. One of the main causes, according to my father who was a licensed airframe and engine mechanic, was the practice of auto mechanic to repack bearing with fresh grease. The repacking was necessary but the cleaning was the issue. Mechanics would wash the bearings in petro solvents and blow them dry with air pressure. This would spin the bearing with no lubricant and scar the rollers and races thereby shortening the bearing life significantly. Aircraft manufacturers cautioned against this practice but auto manufacturers never seem to spread the word.
IMHO, I fear that the method of completely stripping a chain of all lubrication and attempting to lubricate fails to get all of the contact surfaces lubricated, thereby reducing the life of the chain. Especially a paraffin lubricant that may not penetrate all surfaces with just dipping or wiping.
I have been using Honda Manual Transmission Fluid for a chain lubricant for years. It is quite light, full of detergents and does not capture the fine dirt particles that come up from road surfaces, especially wet roads, as the very heavy oil that comes on a new chain. I wipe a liberal amount of oil over the chain about once every 500 miles or so, ride one trip and dry the excess oil off at the end of the ride. My chain life is about 5-7,000 miles with no perceptible wear of the gears in about 30,000 thousand miles on my old bike with Shimano Ultegra chains and components.
+GaryL3803 Good cleaning advice Gary. To get the wax into pins and rollers,bath the chain in hot wax and occasionally agitate it until no more bubbles come from the chain.
I don't know if anyone else noticed but the 5th gear cog is worn completely out. It looks to have done at least 7-10000 km on one chain. And also 4th gear cog is also getting a good amount of ware. It might be a suggestion to use a wider range of gears and change the chain a little more frequently.
I use a whiskey bottle with 8 oz mineral spirits. Tie a loop of string through chain, guide chain into the bottle,leaving the tail of the string outside the bottle, cork the bottle. Gently swirl bottle, and let it soak for an hour. Remove chain, hang vertically and spray with rubbing alcohol. Dry. Follow with lube on inner rollers, let gravity distribute.wipe down, install
Dawn dish soap and a good brush works great. Let it dry and then use Wolftooth, WT - 1.
Like your videos, thx. Best and simple way to clean cain. But it in a jar i diesel. Same you put in your car. Diesel, brusch it a bit.. can use lamp oil as well...its just the best. Try it. Dont buy expensive degreaser or other bike stuff
Regarding the magnet, stainless steel is almost entirely non-magnetic so any steel particles at the bottom probably got there by gravity.
Depends on the steel. Most stainless steel pans work with induction stoves
I think u missed a spot!
Please do them all again.
Fill the ultrasonic cleaner with plain water. Then put your chain in the homemade cleaner with the petrol. Place the jar in the ultrasonic cleaner. Chain and the ultrasonic cleaner will both be clean when you are done.
I use Simple Green in my chain cleaning tool. It's not even as nice as the one you used. The Simple Green removes way more grime than your homemade cleaning solution. The water comes out pretty nasty. It's cheap, non-toxic and biodegradable. I use it to clean the floors and kitchen and restrooms too. Smells great.
You use it full strength ?
Simple green contains petty aggressive salts; metal starts rusting very quickly once it was exposed to simple green. I stopped using it on my chains for that reason; back to citrus-based.
Well I have found that using furniture polish is just as good as a paraffin wax.
It contains something called isoparaffin whatever that means but it a whole lot cheaper than the chain lubes
All you do is spray it on the chain it goes on as a foam so it penetrates deeper into the chain let it sit over night.
Since using this I find that my legs seem to spin faster. I get about 300 miles out of each treatment
Nice. I've used the chain brush thing in the past and wasn't impressed at all so binned it. I came up with my own solution rather similar to your homemade one but use paraffin/kerosene as my solvent rather than petrol but hadn't realised about the waxy film it leaves behind. Best thing I've found in recent months is a can of pressurised degreaser, but it isn't as thorough as your methods and gets expensive fast. I've just bought several litres of aqueous degreaser to experiment with.
+Hugh Wallace Automotive shops often sell degreaser cheaper than anywhere else Hugh.
i have never in my life seen so many so concerned about their bike chain and the extra watt's it takes when a chain gets dirty! just my opinion on seeing how much a great problem this is turning out to be? Does no one make a thin ribbed or cogged drive belt to use instead of a chain? Or better yet,, A drive shaft?
Yes. A belt drive with internal hub gears is an option. They are very durable and low maintenance but cost 4 or 5 times as much. Good for world touring.
Excellent comparison of different ways of chain cleaning. I'm kind of impressed that it took only 10min for chain to sit in petrol, with some additional degreasing, for the Homemade cleaner to win this contest. In later video "The Ultimate bicycle chain clean" its recommend to leave chain soak in petrol for couple of hours, preferably over night. Or was it intended to do it prior waxing only?
A long soak in petrol is essential to remove factory grease before the initial waxing.
no wonder almost all mechanic around the world use petroleum to clean drive chain. very good comparison
Enjoyed your informative video Sir. Greetings from the UK
In my experience, Simple Green & Distilled hot Water work as well as petrol without the smell and contamination of soil. If not completely clean on the 1st go, since I am not hosing off my chain with degreaser, rinse & repeat.
(the distilled water is important, as it will absorb much more than tap water saturated with minerals and such)
Great video I liked your methodical way of doing this chain exercise, would had thought the ultra sonic cleaner would had trumped the other two methods first time around.
I thought so too,thats why I bought one....now it sits on my bench collecting dust.
I think preserving the environment is more important than having a cleaner chain. My two cents.
+Juan0003 I agree about looking after the environment less chemicals the better and use water where possible. I reuse vleaners like petroleum up to 5 times before allowing it to evaporate...wipe out the container with a rag.
I would have been convinced if you had used degreaser with all three methods...
And put each chain on the junk bike to spray with high pressure hose, that's the key difference I see.
IMO he proved nothing other than gasoline(petrol) cleans a dirty chain better than two other degreasers.
I use brake cleaner. Works awesome.
Was the home made cleaner the best or was it the solution used? What is the result using just degreaser and dish soap in the home made cleaner? I'd be interested in seeing the result of that. I'm not talking about repeating the entire test, just the home made test. Seems to me the petrol did all the work, the shaking did little. Therefore any container with petrol would bring about the same results, regardless of agitation.
Cheers for taking the time to make this video in the first place.
Yes,the petrol did the bulk of the cleaning but you can't put petrol in clip-on chain cleaners...it ruins the brushes.
Yeah that is a problem with those plastic cleaners. I find two nail brushes facing each other is a quick way of getting the bulk out of my chain. (I ride mountain bikes, so mud is just part of the deal) Thanks for your time, I've found a few of your videos really helpful.
The home made chain lube is a great video. I've been using 50% candle wax and 50% paraffin oil as a fire starter for years! I make it into the toothpaste you show in that video and rub it onto a cotton ball, starts fires easy-as and stores forever, I never once thought of putting it on my chain! I will be from now on though!
Excellent video Mate thanks
Love your work, Ozzy Mate!
This is neurosis - I am a reformed paraffin waxer who rides every day. Removing the chain to clean and then waxing takes way more time than the clip on scrubber and liquid lube. Use the extra time to enjoy life.
Right, and the other solutions also generate much more contaminated fluid. Where do you dispose it?
@murafskis
Uhh.. that "stretch" you/we call it? Yeah, that's a misnomer.
It isn't "elongation" of the steel due to use. You aren't strong enough to permanantly deform the steel, certainly not at the temperature a chain runs at on a bicycle.
Steel has very high tensile strength. It takes a dynamic shock load higher than most normal people can produce or forces outside the normal range of motion of a chain to deform one significantly and permanently. (Ie: lateral bending movements, or the sheer force say... a pro track cyclist can produce.)
I'm a pretty big guy, 190-200 pounds of lean meat, Lot of it in my legs... I can spike 2000 watts for a couple seconds, no problem.
I'm not "stretching" my chain.
What makes your chain "longer" over time is WEAR. Yep, all that microscopic ferrous metal material ( you know, the stuff that sticks to a magnet?) you get in the bottom of your chain cleaner tub? Yeah, that stuff... it's your chain! Tiny little pieces of the rollers and pins, and a lesser extent the side plates. That's why measurement between links gets larger on a chain gauge the longer a chain is in service. You don't stretch it - it eats itself. How much and how fast the chain eats itself is dependant on environmental conditions, maintenance, and frequency of use. No matter how much or how little you obsess over your chain, the process of wear is inevitable. It's just a question of how fast. Clean, well lubed chains will wear slower, and over time, a chain gauge will prove this. Side by side, all other factors being equal - the well kept chain will show less "stretch" than the grimy, unkempt one. Every time, forever and ever, amen.
My advice is Clean often, lube liberally - follow directions of your favorite lube (some have specific processes to maximize whatever magic they claim to do)
Replace chains preemptively - get a gauge and keep an eye on wear. Replace when worn. Your cogset and chainrings will thank you for it.
You can be as obsessive or as slovenly as you want, but cleaning followed by lubing WILL make your chain last longer, the more often you do it. - guaranteed.
That being said, I'm a chain box cleaner, use park chain brite in the box, and like Squirt brand lube. Seems to work well for me.
YMMV (litteraly)
@@stinkyfungus I meant that parts of a chain become thinner, and then pins standing a bit wider inside rollers of the chain. Overall chain is a bit longer, so that's what I call stretching a chain.
Nah I rotate 3 chains per cassette and my cleaning and waxing time is less than you spend on cleaning and loss of energy.
Personally I use lighter fluid like for a grill to clean the chain. Also it works great at cleaning brushes that are saturated with grease and metal bits
Every 3 rides or so, while the chain is on the bike, I spray the Chain with WD-40, let it soak, pedal it for a couple minutes while on a stand, then blow it off with compressed air while holding a rag on the back side of the chain to catch the spray. Repeat this until the spray off the chain while blowing it with compressed air is clean. Then lube the chain and blow off the excess lube. When you blow and wipe off the excess lube off the chain, the sprockets stay much cleaner.
I have two seasons on a new chain using this method, there is no measurable wear on the chain.
Nice one, Subscribed. Please keep it comin...
1. You need a better cleaner/degeaser in you brush box. 2 The differences in wattage improvement is probably not even measurable between the three systems 3 The brush system is the only one the is easy enough to do regularly.
To obtain maximum chain efficiency all previous lubricant and debris needs to be removed before relubing. Soaking a chain in petrol proved to be superior over all substances I tested (only three shown in video). Please try it,you will be amazed Jim.
@@stevenleffanue I have no doubt you are absolutely correct, and are an excellent bike mechanic.! I use gasoline to clean lots of auto, motorcycle, and bike parts, but I AM A BIT LAZY, so I need a very easy solution I can do quickly and often without much time, effort, or thought. The best medicine is one the patient will take. Do you have a video on super-quick chain removal and replacement? I think that could help with my laziness.
Exactly the same way I've been cleaning my chain since the 1990s, the only difference being I use a degreaser instead of gasoline, and I give the chain a swirl in Isopropyl alcohol after the water rinse to dry it faster. Thanks for the comparison!
Thanks for the video and the detailed way in which you went about the test.
I wonder how effective it would be to do a quick 2min clean in the shaker and then a quick rinse under warm water and 10mins in the ultrasonic bath to get the last of the debris out of the chain? Maybe even a shake of the chain to move the links about half way through the 10mins?
+Jackson Gee Thanx Jackson. Yes,there must be a lot of ways to clean a chain....as long as its as clean as possible before waxing.
Well you've made it much easier to consider what the best method is, so thank you.
What about Petrol in the Ultrasonic. However you don't put the petrol directory into it. Use one of the glass jars to hold the chain then petrol in the jar. Put a few centimetres of plain water in the Utrasonic and sit the jar in the water. Don't set the temperature past 25°. Definitely don't smoke anywhere near it and have it far outside. Ive done it for car parts in short 10min bursts (because the Ultrasonic will generate its own heat regardless of the temp setting) and it works well. Using a glass jar with your chemicals in the ultrasonic is a good way to keep it clean.
Not really necessary but you can if you like.
you are amazing!! thanks for all the videos...
Boil up with shaving salt over 15 min. Works great with cleaning silver and gold after soldering.
Always wear gloves when working with chemicals or fossil fuels. My father (an auto mechanic) died of leukemia caused by not wearing gloves.
I had dinosaurs start growing on my hands...
Yes, it has been known for many yeas that auto mechanics who's hands are always dirty with oil and grease are at risk of these diseases , it is a great shame that the motor industry didn't highlight the risks years ago.
@@SinnerSince1962 we know you're trying to be funny, but it really isn't the right place.
He told us that his father died of cancer because he was handeling petroleum based products, and you are joking around like an ass.
@@StopaskingformynameUA-cam i hardly used cloves and i don't have cancer,brake dust asbestos didn't wear breathing mask?
@@vicamaral well since you didnt get it i guess it's the same for everyone.
Excellent test, thank you Oz Cycle. Question: How do you safety/ecologically dispose of the used petro once you've used it to clean your chain?
Evaporation then wipe out dirt and grease with paper towel or tissues.
Best of both worlds was my very similar US tank, filled to line with water, but then put chain into a skinny 12 oz plastic bottle with naptha, capped, and just let it float around in the US tank for 10 minutes. The plastic does not stop the US waves, the chain gets both the solvent and US treatment. However, I've learned that agitating by hand and soaking, repeating once with clean naptha, then wiping with rag before drying appears to work practically as well, so the US may be useful for cogsets and odd parts, but a waste for chains. Naptha also is the better no-residue solvent for wax anyway, so once the waxed chain system is used, it's the cleanest solvent with relatively lower risks compared to any gas. Mineral spirits, kerosene just don't compare. Note, that U/S tank like mine has a drain hole; mine leaked under that connection, burning out half the tank's electronics. NEVER buy any US unit with an integrated drain and many don't make them nowadays for that reason, over time the vibrations can break down the soldered or welded tubing connections.
I never thot of ultrasonics breaking down the weld at the outlet tap....geeez!
Yeh Im gonna have to look into naptha.