Some of the cheaper "Carbon Fiber"-Filament only has Carbon Fiber powder or very short fibers inside, which do not contribute to the mechanical properties at all. I used Extrudr PETG CF and noticed a big difference to normal PETG and it was perfectly fine to print, no print setting adjustment needed.
I print PETG CF at 260c because the hardened steel nozzles need a lot of temp to maintain good extrusion and layer adhesion. I use no fan for first layers and then 25% with an enclosure. In the summer, I up the fan to 50%
I found upping the fan speed after the first layer seemed to reduce stringing, but honestly getting the setting for it right seems more like voodoo than anything😂
I love PLA, the looks, the ease of use, the non toxic and semi biodegradable nature, the renewable part and the stiffness. But high temp really ruins it even at moderate levels. I think eventually we will have a PLA ++ or PLA 2 that has all the good plus better temp resilience.
As I've replied to other comments, my friends and I have had much better experiences with CF PETG. I do think the Eryone brand is not a great example of the filament type. My #1 recommendation would be Tinmorry followed by Voxelab AKA Flashforge. While CF or other fibers definitely don't automatically make parts stronger and can decrease layer adhesion, they add other desirable properties. Generally, better bridging and overhangs, easier printing at higher temperatures, less stringing, a more uniform if matte finish, less visible layer lines, and yes more stiffness. Good CF PETG should be like easy mode printing PETG with a really cool finish. Another example of material made easier and better in multiple ways by fiber is glass fiber polycarbonate AKA GF PC. As always, it's just important to remember how much filament can vary by brand and even by color or batch, and that print settings can drastically affect results. Good video though!
Tinmorry gang! On my 3rd roll with a X1C stock .4 nozzle. Prints beautifully after drying and calibrating which I do for everything but basic PLAs. Had some initial stringing on multi part and complex geometries, but after dialing in the speed and retraction + avoid crossing perimeters in bambu studio, I'm flyin through the stuff.
@@Neally Mechanical engineer here there are two PRIMARY reasons to use CF PETG is that it slightly improves the glass transition of a PETG print and that, even as your tests showed (although I suspect you had filament and/or print issues) the end result is substantively stiffer until plastic deformation occurred. Another thing to keep in mind is that Carbon fiber only consistantly improves *tensile* strength load conditions, which is why the failure point starts at the top. This is because the bottom of the beams were in tension and the top is in compression. Do not expect strength improvement in compression loads so avoid "bridge" loads if you want to see better performance out of CF prints.
I primarily use PETG for its UV resistance and its temperature resistance but mostly the UV. PLA will not only melt or deform in sunlight but it will deteriorate as well. Not good for parts that need to be outside in the weather. I think that CF PETG is more for aesthetics and nothing more. It gives you that flat black finish that some find desirable.
I've been told PETG CF is significantly easier to print than regular PETG because the CF helps with the moisture and bridging during prints I bought 2 spools to try out because I hate printing regular PETG but I want to print things to go in my garage and not have them warp..
This is my general experience along with several friends in a 3D printing Discord. CF PETG is easier to print than PETG generally and has a lot of desirable attributes. The finish is especially nice if you like a bit of matte and less layer line visibility. I recommend trying Tinmorry or Voxelab/Flashforge brands to start.
@@FrankensteinV203 sorry forgot to reply petg cf is so good. I just wish it was cheaper prints almost exactly like PLA. sticks to the bed really good but still can be removed. as tough as PLA but with even less shrinkage. no need for a filament dryer just printed it straight. and no need for tuning just used bambu defaults. I tried regular PETG and it has been super difficult to get it to stick to the bed and to print well. I will never buy regular PETG again.. too much of a hassle
My guess is that the CF in the CFPETG concentrates the stress into one area. The CF wont be able to stretch, so it will want to / rather delaminate (because the top layer will be under compression, and the bottom layer under tension.) So it starts to delaminate. If it doesn't delaminate then the next thing to fail would be the bottom layer CF fibres breaking in one spot and then all the strength is gone in that one spot, so it cracks. Meanwhile the rest of it still has intact CF running through it, so remains strong. Meanwhile the petg; there's nothing causing different stresses between the layers (tension / compression due to the CF) so the stress is spread more evenly across it. There's probably some more materials science that goes into it but that's above my knowledge. Yield strength etc. I've just been designing my first compressor and housing to fit a specific motor in fusion and your channel came up in my recommended, so your channel is right up my street. Although all my PETG is wet and not printing nicely at the moment...Subbed
My experience with PETG CF has been disappointing to put it lightly. Annealing might help, but the cf is basically ruining PETG’s best attribute which is flexibility before breaking. Long strand cf would be better, but chopped cf is a waste.
Eryone is typically very high quality. I would be surprised if it was a quality issue. See my previous comment about the property you tested vs your desired improvement.
Try PCTG, basically PETG but better, and maybe pla with CF or other brands of petg, as it differs alot, also try to print PETG really hot even if it strings, it makes it adhere better preventing the delamination.
@gg48gg I know 3 brands that have pctg, which is more than enough for me since I only order one xD. I order all my filament in eu from 3djake. And they have their own filament as well but I like the fiberlogy one alot. Although it needs drying it's very sturdy and has near perfect adhesion on the recommended temps.
Thanks, I was thinking of trying to print my product in PETG CF.. a screw and grip into the bottom with printed threads, so layer adhesion and cracking are high priority. This looks like the matte texture is not worth the PETG properties loss.
@Neally I ran a burn off test on some voxelab and by volume it was .05% cf. I prefer brands that list the cf % because some brands add carbon black powder and not chopped fiber.
Right, he misunderstands the difference between yeild strength and tensile strength. Carbon Fiber adds strength and rigidity, but makes the parts more brittle and less flexible. Also printing with CF, the Fibers are all on the same layer not passing between the layers, which will sacrifice some layer adhesion for more strength in the other direction. CF has it's place, but it has trade offs. Doing this test and calling CF no good demonstrates a large misunderstanding on the material. It isn't good for some use cases, but it is better for others.
I noticed that petg strength and stringing etc differentiate even with different color of the same brand. It can be that pla is stronger but in sommer its different story.. Try to use phone holder in car or so.. Pla is useless outdoors
Maybe formulas are just getting better, but this isn't my experience at all. While CF or other fibers definitely don't automatically make parts extremely strong or make layer adhesion better generally, they add other desirable properties. Generally, better bridging and overhangs, better printing at higher temperatures, less stringing, a more uniform if matte finish, less visible layer lines, and yes more stiffness. I'm not sure if the particular brand in the video just wasn't great or if it needed higher printing temperatures for example, but generally my friends and I find CF PETG to just be better than general PETG all around for many purposes.
Will always depend I use it solely for its heat resistance as it is more heat resistant that normal PETG. Granted it wasn't tested but just commenting to show its another use case compared to the application in the vid. As my a1 can print PETG with ease but struggles with other heat resistant materials just makes it SO much easier to work with.
Carbon fiber for consumer-grade 3d printers is a gimmick and a waste of money. Even under the BEST circumstances carbon fiber filament adds almost nothing to the the parts. Consumer-grade FDM printers are amazing, and for light-wear items and rapid prototyping, the are incredible machines. If you need more strength and stiffness, then there are better options.
Just adding a side note that it is great for applications where heat is your main concern. Of course not saying its the best material but for people with lower spec printers its prob the best option like in my case. I wouldn't rule it out right but as everything else people need to know what they are buying and why. The advertising is for sure misleading though.
@@Neally I used PLA+, PLA CF , PETG and ASA CF. It´s all about application , PLA dont like temperature changes , and only for that reason , for me , its the worst filament out there.
@@Untiocansadoliving in southern US pla is almost useless to me. I print a lot of parts/toys that will be outside and summertime heat and sun have deformed many pla items.
Hobby Rc cars have traditionally always used PA6 and PA66 Nylon with 33% or less glass fiber reinforcement. That is far stronger in every way than PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS. Nylon can be hard to print, but it is the king of thermoplastics.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Lol nerd
Some of the cheaper "Carbon Fiber"-Filament only has Carbon Fiber powder or very short fibers inside, which do not contribute to the mechanical properties at all. I used Extrudr PETG CF and noticed a big difference to normal PETG and it was perfectly fine to print, no print setting adjustment needed.
I've heard that too, I'll give that brand a shot. Thank you!
Appreciated your testing effort by the way! Really felt your disappointment after you realized that the PETG CF was not that good :D@@Neally
Yeah haha, I was definitely hoping for a better outcome, maybe the other stuff will yield some better results! @@Interspieder
I second all that, cheap CF blends suck.
I print PETG CF at 260c because the hardened steel nozzles need a lot of temp to maintain good extrusion and layer adhesion. I use no fan for first layers and then 25% with an enclosure. In the summer, I up the fan to 50%
I found upping the fan speed after the first layer seemed to reduce stringing, but honestly getting the setting for it right seems more like voodoo than anything😂
I love PLA, the looks, the ease of use, the non toxic and semi biodegradable nature, the renewable part and the stiffness. But high temp really ruins it even at moderate levels. I think eventually we will have a PLA ++ or PLA 2 that has all the good plus better temp resilience.
I've been printing with pla a lot more lately and it really is wonderful, if only it had better thermal characteristics
As I've replied to other comments, my friends and I have had much better experiences with CF PETG. I do think the Eryone brand is not a great example of the filament type. My #1 recommendation would be Tinmorry followed by Voxelab AKA Flashforge. While CF or other fibers definitely don't automatically make parts stronger and can decrease layer adhesion, they add other desirable properties. Generally, better bridging and overhangs, easier printing at higher temperatures, less stringing, a more uniform if matte finish, less visible layer lines, and yes more stiffness. Good CF PETG should be like easy mode printing PETG with a really cool finish. Another example of material made easier and better in multiple ways by fiber is glass fiber polycarbonate AKA GF PC. As always, it's just important to remember how much filament can vary by brand and even by color or batch, and that print settings can drastically affect results. Good video though!
Tinmorry gang! On my 3rd roll with a X1C stock .4 nozzle. Prints beautifully after drying and calibrating which I do for everything but basic PLAs. Had some initial stringing on multi part and complex geometries, but after dialing in the speed and retraction + avoid crossing perimeters in bambu studio, I'm flyin through the stuff.
@@MD.20.20 Calibration is honestly key to get high quality results.
I'll have to give tinmorry a try! Cheers, thank you!
@@Neally Mechanical engineer here there are two PRIMARY reasons to use CF PETG is that it slightly improves the glass transition of a PETG print and that, even as your tests showed (although I suspect you had filament and/or print issues) the end result is substantively stiffer until plastic deformation occurred.
Another thing to keep in mind is that Carbon fiber only consistantly improves *tensile* strength load conditions, which is why the failure point starts at the top. This is because the bottom of the beams were in tension and the top is in compression. Do not expect strength improvement in compression loads so avoid "bridge" loads if you want to see better performance out of CF prints.
@@benruss4130 Thanks!
I primarily use PETG for its UV resistance and its temperature resistance but mostly the UV. PLA will not only melt or deform in sunlight but it will deteriorate as well. Not good for parts that need to be outside in the weather. I think that CF PETG is more for aesthetics and nothing more. It gives you that flat black finish that some find desirable.
Entirely agree
I've been told PETG CF is significantly easier to print than regular PETG because the CF helps with the moisture and bridging during prints
I bought 2 spools to try out because I hate printing regular PETG but I want to print things to go in my garage and not have them warp..
Any results?
@@FrankensteinV203 it should be coming in today
This is my general experience along with several friends in a 3D printing Discord. CF PETG is easier to print than PETG generally and has a lot of desirable attributes. The finish is especially nice if you like a bit of matte and less layer line visibility. I recommend trying Tinmorry or Voxelab/Flashforge brands to start.
@@FrankensteinV203 sorry forgot to reply
petg cf is so good. I just wish it was cheaper
prints almost exactly like PLA. sticks to the bed really good but still can be removed. as tough as PLA but with even less shrinkage. no need for a filament dryer just printed it straight. and no need for tuning just used bambu defaults.
I tried regular PETG and it has been super difficult to get it to stick to the bed and to print well.
I will never buy regular PETG again.. too much of a hassle
My guess is that the CF in the CFPETG concentrates the stress into one area. The CF wont be able to stretch, so it will want to / rather delaminate (because the top layer will be under compression, and the bottom layer under tension.) So it starts to delaminate. If it doesn't delaminate then the next thing to fail would be the bottom layer CF fibres breaking in one spot and then all the strength is gone in that one spot, so it cracks. Meanwhile the rest of it still has intact CF running through it, so remains strong.
Meanwhile the petg; there's nothing causing different stresses between the layers (tension / compression due to the CF) so the stress is spread more evenly across it.
There's probably some more materials science that goes into it but that's above my knowledge. Yield strength etc.
I've just been designing my first compressor and housing to fit a specific motor in fusion and your channel came up in my recommended, so your channel is right up my street. Although all my PETG is wet and not printing nicely at the moment...Subbed
Great info! Thanks, I appreciate it!
My experience with PETG CF has been disappointing to put it lightly. Annealing might help, but the cf is basically ruining PETG’s best attribute which is flexibility before breaking. Long strand cf would be better, but chopped cf is a waste.
Agreed, I've heard higher quality cfpetg is less disappointing, but for my purposes it's definitely impractical
Eryone is typically very high quality. I would be surprised if it was a quality issue. See my previous comment about the property you tested vs your desired improvement.
Thanks for your hard work. People overlook a lot of the shit you did in videos like this. 👍 you are appreciated ❤
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it!
Try PCTG, basically PETG but better, and maybe pla with CF or other brands of petg, as it differs alot, also try to print PETG really hot even if it strings, it makes it adhere better preventing the delamination.
For sure, I'll give those a shot. Thanks!
Pctg is tough to find. Hopefully it will become more available soon. Have you found a good source and brand?
@gg48gg I know 3 brands that have pctg, which is more than enough for me since I only order one xD. I order all my filament in eu from 3djake. And they have their own filament as well but I like the fiberlogy one alot. Although it needs drying it's very sturdy and has near perfect adhesion on the recommended temps.
@@levigillis3475 I'm in the US and there are few brands and they're all $46 or more for a kg.
Thanks, I was thinking of trying to print my product in PETG CF.. a screw and grip into the bottom with printed threads, so layer adhesion and cracking are high priority. This looks like the matte texture is not worth the PETG properties loss.
Maybe not, at least not with the cheaper brands. It might be worth trying something more pricey, but I think the benefits are negligible.
@Neally I ran a burn off test on some voxelab and by volume it was .05% cf. I prefer brands that list the cf % because some brands add carbon black powder and not chopped fiber.
👍❤ Danke für das tolle Video.
Thank you for your review !❤
Cheers!
Carbon fiber is tensile strength and usually doesn't like to be bent like that
Right, he misunderstands the difference between yeild strength and tensile strength. Carbon Fiber adds strength and rigidity, but makes the parts more brittle and less flexible. Also printing with CF, the Fibers are all on the same layer not passing between the layers, which will sacrifice some layer adhesion for more strength in the other direction. CF has it's place, but it has trade offs. Doing this test and calling CF no good demonstrates a large misunderstanding on the material. It isn't good for some use cases, but it is better for others.
What's the name of the tester at 2:00?
Have you found a good matte PETG?
Should also try ASA, TPU, PC, and PA6 (Nylon)
Good stuff!!!
Thank you!
😍👏
I noticed that petg strength and stringing etc differentiate even with different color of the same brand. It can be that pla is stronger but in sommer its different story.. Try to use phone holder in car or so.. Pla is useless outdoors
I'd use PLA+ if heat isn't going to be an issue, if heat is, then ASA....
Engagement farming here for another visit but petg CF vs pla CF
Everything I've seen so far makes it seem that CF infused filaments are a gimmick.
Agreed. Maybe a higher end CF petg filament would perform better, but the budget filaments seem practically useless
Maybe formulas are just getting better, but this isn't my experience at all. While CF or other fibers definitely don't automatically make parts extremely strong or make layer adhesion better generally, they add other desirable properties. Generally, better bridging and overhangs, better printing at higher temperatures, less stringing, a more uniform if matte finish, less visible layer lines, and yes more stiffness. I'm not sure if the particular brand in the video just wasn't great or if it needed higher printing temperatures for example, but generally my friends and I find CF PETG to just be better than general PETG all around for many purposes.
It appears cf filament is a waste of time and money
It seems so, at least the brand I was using it. It's unfortunate really, I liked the textured of it a lot
Will always depend I use it solely for its heat resistance as it is more heat resistant that normal PETG. Granted it wasn't tested but just commenting to show its another use case compared to the application in the vid. As my a1 can print PETG with ease but struggles with other heat resistant materials just makes it SO much easier to work with.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🤑
Carbon fiber for consumer-grade 3d printers is a gimmick and a waste of money. Even under the BEST circumstances carbon fiber filament adds almost nothing to the the parts. Consumer-grade FDM printers are amazing, and for light-wear items and rapid prototyping, the are incredible machines. If you need more strength and stiffness, then there are better options.
For sure!
Just adding a side note that it is great for applications where heat is your main concern. Of course not saying its the best material but for people with lower spec printers its prob the best option like in my case. I wouldn't rule it out right but as everything else people need to know what they are buying and why. The advertising is for sure misleading though.
You're using sum-ting-wong brand CF PETG. Get better material.
PLA is stiffer than most other types.
Petg is a waste of time. I print rc cards parts and can tell you from experience that pla plus can handle much more abuse than petg.
It's all about application, I've had pla parts crack and shatter where petg held up.
@@Neally I used PLA+, PLA CF , PETG and ASA CF. It´s all about application , PLA dont like temperature changes , and only for that reason , for me , its the worst filament out there.
@@Untiocansado Yeah, I agree
@@Untiocansadoliving in southern US pla is almost useless to me. I print a lot of parts/toys that will be outside and summertime heat and sun have deformed many pla items.
Hobby Rc cars have traditionally always used PA6 and PA66 Nylon with 33% or less glass fiber reinforcement. That is far stronger in every way than PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS. Nylon can be hard to print, but it is the king of thermoplastics.