Love it! I had my cheap classical (my road guitar) worked over completely by a top guitar tech. Frets, intonation, playability and it plays as good (if not better) than my hand made pro model! I would have done it myself, but did not have the skills at the time. Prob cost me $250 (almost the same as the guitar) or so but worth every penny!
My first acoustic as a broke teen was a $20 used already crappy blue classical nylon where the neck had already been broke off (probably from steel strings). And i put nylons on and some notes had a bad rattle in the bridge. I took a $1 deck of playing cards and wedged it underneath the bridge. Very slowly and carefully. Zero rattle now. But the higher frets are unplayable but im glad i learned on it bc i can play high action/bad frets and have good sustain. Im not really a nylon player im an electric player but i only ever get compliments when im playing my crappy nylon guitar.
@@OutoftheblueSwedenYour failing to look closely at the structure of the bridge and the fact it doesn't need to be but I understand your train of thought. The saddle was lowered but not so low it was below the string holes of the bridge so there remains anchor tension. If your confused still, research into converting a classical to a flamenco and what the gea differences really are and how to make the adjustments which are not always possible due to some bridges and or the neck fingerboard height without more involved work
@@nnibxx No, depends on several factors of construction and the players preference for string action. Generally between 3/8”- 5/8” from guitar top to top of saddle.
Nice video but in my opinion a lot of good things could have been done with some extra effort. Strings were lowered too much - clear fret buzz in the demo at the end. Intonation ahs not been set. Bridge gluing with cyano acrylic... very questionable. It left way better contact than before but still only in some spots. Proper hide glue would bring this guitar to another level. Last but not least... the way the strings were tied is absolutely horrible. This extra little aestetics just killed the effect for me... Good you try but please aim higher next time.
The market value of this guitar hasn't increased by a cent, but it is now a playable and, in many ways, great instruments~
The market value of any guitar is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Tone and playability is key.
thanks, love the bridge/saddle solution
Love it! I had my cheap classical (my road guitar) worked over completely by a top guitar tech. Frets, intonation, playability and it plays as good (if not better) than my hand made pro model! I would have done it myself, but did not have the skills at the time. Prob cost me $250 (almost the same as the guitar) or so but worth every penny!
My first acoustic as a broke teen was a $20 used already crappy blue classical nylon where the neck had already been broke off (probably from steel strings).
And i put nylons on and some notes had a bad rattle in the bridge.
I took a $1 deck of playing cards and wedged it underneath the bridge. Very slowly and carefully.
Zero rattle now.
But the higher frets are unplayable but im glad i learned on it bc i can play high action/bad frets and have good sustain. Im not really a nylon player im an electric player but i only ever get compliments when im playing my crappy nylon guitar.
Why...was this not the first search result...as i typed in almost exactly this into youtube looking for a video like this.
The internet is cursed.
Would have been nice to hear what you were doing and why.
That’s such a wonderful job…👏🏼👍🏻
Just curious... what was the purpose of the notches below the bridge?
To lower the strings as much as possible. Without those notches strings would just lay on the bridge an all the intonation would go out the window.
@@HaifaElectronicsRepair is there a standard measure between bridges and body?
@@HaifaElectronicsRepair but the notches don't lower the bridge.
@@OutoftheblueSwedenYour failing to look closely at the structure of the bridge and the fact it doesn't need to be but I understand your train of thought. The saddle was lowered but not so low it was below the string holes of the bridge so there remains anchor tension. If your confused still, research into converting a classical to a flamenco and what the gea differences really are and how to make the adjustments which are not always possible due to some bridges and or the neck fingerboard height without more involved work
@@nnibxx No, depends on several factors of construction and the players preference for string action. Generally between 3/8”- 5/8” from guitar top to top of saddle.
הי איך יוצרים איתכם קשר?
Is there any risk of making the frets buzz on my guitar if I try this?
Just be carefull not to make string action too low.
Try as you go,if you get a buzz put a piece of paper under and test again,same with the nut.
Neither being glued in place!
Jesus, i was waiting for the hammer 🔨 to come out.
How much Is in dollars the guitar price ?
A 100 maybe)
Absolutely no custom shop
acoustic guitar should ever
contain ply wood.
Nice video but in my opinion a lot of good things could have been done with some extra effort.
Strings were lowered too much - clear fret buzz in the demo at the end.
Intonation ahs not been set.
Bridge gluing with cyano acrylic... very questionable. It left way better contact than before but still only in some spots. Proper hide glue would bring this guitar to another level.
Last but not least... the way the strings were tied is absolutely horrible. This extra little aestetics just killed the effect for me...
Good you try but please aim higher next time.
Classical guitar - NOT classic.
Promo SM