DO NOT(!) try to install on MagPul synthetic stocks! It will destroy your stock. The Loctite they use seems like it’s welded, it’s WAY stronger than polymer. I ruined a $150 MagPul Scout stock that’s going into the trash. Surefire is going for metal AR’s here - do not make my mistake.
For these light reviews it would be awesome if you could put a picture of the light with the part number on the frame when you're testing them. It's kinda tough to follow when all these naming conventions are similar. I appreciate you doing these!
Props for surefire finially making the tried and true better. Competition is good. When i look at several manufacturers and have a hard time deciding, this is a good thing. It is also a bad thing for my bank account. Nice video.
I agree about the tailcap. The Z68 clicky is hands down the best for me and the most intuitive, easy to use and reliable. The recess makes it very hard to accidently activate. Currently I'm running an Arisaka 300 series with the Z68 clicky tailcap, the Malkoff E1HTv2 head which is 400 lumens and 18000 candela and the offset mlok mount. It's a great light and mount for $230
Is it really though, a company who shills out for government contracts and screws the taxpayer? Idk if that’s the kind of “America” I support. At that rate, they’re not doing any of us any more favors than China is. I can guarantee they’re pushing to continue this war in Ukraine to continue funneling your sweet tax dollars into their pockets… I don’t have a problem with a company landing contracts, but they’ve ridden them for way too long, haven’t actually innovated anything in a long while, and their product line is at least 5-10 years behind the competition. Bernie Sanders is an American; Elizabeth Warren is an American; the Everytown David Hogg is an American. If they owned a flashlight company, would you buy their products over anyone else’s, just because they make them in America? What kind of people are they supporting with their business? What kind of products do they make in comparison to competitors? -two questions far more important than where a product is made these days. In some cases, an American made product is politically/ethically far worse than one made with child slave labor in some far off land. -For what it’s worth.
Good on Surefire for joining the Candela squad! I love my Fury DF, but the self-discharge rate of the Surefire 18650's (I have 3 cells; bought new from SF) has been really bad. Whether stored in the light, on my desk, or in the thyrm on my carrier, there are down to 50-60% after 2-3 months. Not great. I have a used Cloud OWL shipping to me right now and am going to buy the Rein 3.0 micro.... so will report on those cells later. Ping me here for updates.
I’ve had the same experience with SF rechargeables. They’re just not ready for prime time, not by a long shot. I appreciate them trying to get with the times, but it’s a swing and a miss for me.
The unprotected cloud cells work great for me. Minimal discharge over months in my experience. The rein also has a lot more usable spill and a brighter, larger hotspot as compared to my SF turbo.
All 18650 and 18350s suffer from parasitic drain. No matter the cell manufacturers or the flashlight brand. That’s a quirk of the battery, not the light. You have to keep them topped off. Or run CR123s if you want them stored long term.
What is the advantage of this surefire turbo versus the rein 3.0? I don’t understand what the benefit is? Yeah, you get more battery life but it comes at the cost of performance. The driver that surefire is using does not try to keep the light at max output for as much of the runtime as possible, the light will just overtime slowly starts dropping way below its max output after like an hour of usage (I’m not talking about constant on, I’m talking about using it intermittently and giving the light time to cool down) It feels like surefire is just trying to pad out the run time over the Rein by configuring the driver to have the light gradually trail off instead of what the rein does, which is try to give you the most output possible for the duration of the run time before quickly dying Are there practical advantages to the beam itself and the lack of flood that makes it more advantageous for things like combat environments with lots of obstructions or something?
@@rondobrondo I don't really geek out over lights, nothing wrong with that, their all too expensive for what they are, and honestly, between those top brands, the differences are minimal, nothing wrong with Cloud Defensive, or Modlite but I prefer the brand Surefire, their backing and history etc. I also like how the Surefire comes with pic / mlok mount out the box.
Outstandinf review! The new turbo mini looks perfect for what I want. I only wish that surefire would make these with the original dual post mounts like the previous series.
DS is the way. Best build quality and a button for backup should your remote/cable die. My last 3 light builds are all Modlite x Axon from Arisaka. No regret.
I actually like subjective opinion videos - it’s good insight of the reviewer for the viewers. That said, I’d like to recommend a video(s) dedicated to a Top 5 format (rifles, lights, etc.). Just a thought, as you don’t really do those sort of videos.
The more I use my gear the less I care about extreme performance. I just want a light that's usable, light weight and durable. I wish they'd come out with a ultralight version of the Scout 300V
It’s all relative. I remember getting a LED light when they first hit the market here in the US. I was so stoked about how “bright” the thing was. I came across that thing the other day and popped some fresh batteries in it just for the heck of it. My fond memory of it was completely diminished when I quickly recognized that I have a brighter light built into my cellphone now. I can appreciate not caring about being on the bleeding edge of tech when it comes to something so rudimentary, but there is certainly something to staying relatively close to the edge (or at least knowing where the edge is). If a guy can overwhelm your white light with something boasting 10x the candela and output, that definitely puts you at a disadvantage, as you can now not see beyond the light, who is carrying it, if it’s mounted to a weapon, etc, etc.. Popping cardboard silhouettes on a flat range or a shoot house is one thing, but facing an equally or better equipped opponent with an equal amount of training is something else. Like NV, it’s an advantage you actually can buy.
A comparison that’s needed: the original 2 cell scout and the DF scout 2 cell turbo (DF using primaries, not the rechargeable). From what I can tell with the basic 2 cell DF (not turbo), the original scout (again, not using their rechargeable in the DF) is brighter, lighter, and slimmer. The rechargeables are convenient (when they work), but I’m not going to bet my life on them working when I need them to. I’m sure guys in the field would much rather just pop in fresh batteries than call timeout so they can charge their electronics, but that’s just one man’s opinion. With the drop in performance, if you’re not 100% going to be trusting the rechargeables, it seems the OG scout (2 cell) is still the best option…that is, unless the turbo is any different than the original DF.
5 years ago maybe. Until they can package lumens and candela in a light with acceptable run time they’re still the Gen 3 Glock 17 of lights. Great work horses that fell behind in the market and lost market share to genuinely better features with equal reliability.
Also, please consider covering those “techniques” you mention to create flood with a high-candela light. Are you talking about diffusers or just hitting something brightly colored in the vicinity? You have my curiosity.
Sorry I don’t understand something here about these modern, premium, LED, 18650 powered. weapon lights. (I’m not talking about things like the Modlite HOG OKW, or the Weltool W65L LEP light with 175000 candela but has a spill lens on it to make it more usable. I’m just talking about 18650 high candela weapon lights) Is there any advantage at all to the surefire turbo lights over the Cloud Rein 3.0? Like yeh the battery life is better, but that’s only because the surefire has much less output and because they have the driver set up to let the light keep running and gradually lose output until it dies, versus the cloud rein which tries to give you as much output as long as possible and then as soon as it’s not able to do max or near max output anymore, then it will rapidly die. Like, now that you can use the rein legacy bodies or the surefire tail cap adaptor to use surefire switches, is there any practical advantage to these turbo surefire lights versus the rein? Like is the smaller beam and less flood more useful in tactical or combat situations? Is there any practical advantage to this light over a Rein? Yeah the longer battery life is nice, but most of that extra battery life comes at the cost of cutting the output in half and then gradually dying and dropping it down to zero. Like in terms of full output, you only get about the same amount of time as like a Rein anyway, and then you have a light that has terrible performance at only like 430 lumens and 50,000 candela. Like, why would you not rather have a light that gives you as much full output as possible, because once that surefire starts to drop, then you basically have a light that is not going to fulfill the purpose that you bought it for, and so then you are gonna have to swap out the battery anyway, and so now you have a light that preserved more of its battery, but gives you way less performance. So is there some practical use of this that I’m not understanding the benefit of? like does it actually make it easier for you to shoot past barricades or other kinds of environmental cover like tree, branches, or walls or whatever?
They do, but I don’t know if they’re specific for whatever model you’re looking at. They’re just rubber slip over filters (in a variety of colors). I use one on a SF EDC-1 pretty often in the woods.
Personally, I would. A light with that much throw isn't really necessary for lighting up, identifying a target, and potentially taking fire, at the typical ranges you wiuld be using a shotgun. Having that throw would be good for blinding, but if its primarily for indoors I would go with a little more spill to provide a wider picture.
I agree with him, I have both the OG pro mini and the turbos and for in my house I’m sticking with my OG one with more spill and it’s plenty bright enough for home defense. A shotgun doesn’t have a range farther than the OG can illuminate anyway. That being said, if you were using it on a rifle and want to be able to see farther outside of your house on your property, then that’s something to take into consideration too and the turbo may be better. If you do go with the turbo, make sure you learn and practice proper light techniques for room clearing with a high candela light because since you won’t have as much spill and really need to know how to use the hot spot effectively.
I just got the mini and am using the SFRDSSR07 surefire, its solid and has all the capabilities you want, tha packaging says any surefire switch will work with it
@@Stfu9785 thank you so much for the reply and info -- I really appreciate it. I found a SR07 pressure pad that includes a socket adapter on amazon for a decent price thanks to your help. The model number is UE-SR07-BK. Can't wait until it comes!
Serious comment/question: It seems like most of the light companies are always trying to catch up to (the dreaded and even hated) olight when it comes to output because olight seems to always be ahead in terms of outright power, especially for the size of the light. What are your true thoughts on that?
That Olight Javalot Tac is badass for less than the $100 I paid....It's rockin 88,000 candela and 1000 lms not to mention Olight added a lifetime warranty on any light bought in 2023 forward
I own tons of Surefire lights, among several other top manufacturers. However, when I walk my dogs down the drive at night or am looking around the farm at something in the dark, I’m usually using an Olight Warrior X that I got years ago when they came out. I’ve grown accustomed to having that level of illuminating power, to the point that when I switch back to a surefire that’s also using an 18650, I find myself pretty frustrated having invested so heavily in what’s already outdated technology the day it’s released. Surefire needs to get ahead of this ball before it’s too late (it really already is). I own several x300s (various models) and currently don’t use a single one. The gun on my nightstand right next to me has a Valkyrie pro mounted on it, because it’s just so much better in terms of overall output, beam quality, color, and candela. I can say much of the same about my Surefire Scouts too, unfortunately. People can hate on Olight all they want, it means little to me, but they’re simply making more powerful and capable lights than most of the US market. If they’d cut back on the marketing hype, flash sale crud, proprietary charging/batteries, and other gimmicks, they’d probably get more recognition in the US gun market. They need to stop the frills, like they’ve done with their handgun lights, and just offer a serious, clean, minimalist looking light that performs like all the rest. The crenelated bezels and all that are a hinderance on a rifle, and no one wants a random splash of blue (a very distinguishable color in the woods) around the bezel of their weapon light. They also need to get with the clicky game. While their tailswitch is innovative and convenient for charging, it’s just not reliably repeatable. Tape switches are great when they work, but I’ve broken every single one I’ve ever used extensively (regardless of who makes them), so I don’t even bother anymore.
So store cr123's that if availability stopped (supply chain issues during war) you have limited supply and shelf life is 10 years as you throw them away each use.... Or, 18650's that are used in every battery power tool, battery powered car, are literally in almost every garage, and can be charged via solar or any other power backup? I'll take 18650 rechargeables!
Im being told that you CANT put 2 cr123 batteries in a turbo which uses 18650 batteries because that would create a series and increase the voltage to 6-7V rather than 3.6V and potentially burn out the light. Cant find a straight answer anywhere as to whether the 18650 lights can handle the voltage increase of 2 cr123 batteries.
@@withoutfurtheradoforever lol there was another comment that I guess got deleted. It was one of those fake mrgunsngear profiles saying congratulations you won a prize
@@ryansealy1233 I went to the surefire website for this. It will work however you have to have a KM-2 series head and or one other type I don't remember the second. But it's on the website if you look up the PRO body.
100k candela is useless inside a building but great outside. PLHv2 is superior to all for indoor use. Because that's what I bought, it's obviously the best.
Cloud was really the first to do Candela in complete lights (not hating on Modlight, etc). Even the 55k OWL is still not far off from these in output terms. 55k candela, but 1250 lumens OTF.
@@chaoticcaninejb How do you think that? OWL compared *directly* with Rein 2.0 full size and they aren't very different. The Rein 2.0 is rated at 71k candela/1100 lumens. 100k candela/750 lumens isn't going to look radically different. Neither have any of the OKW's I've seen. Just not enormous differences from the OWL. Going from my 25.2k candela/1500 lumen Fury DF, they are all superior.
That’s Cloud Defense Rein 3 money… and they’re 120,000 candela, 1,000 lumen I believe, I got one on my HD AR. And what he’s saying about room clearing is right, yeah it CAN blind you but if you’re not being careless, meh not much of a problem imo.
DO NOT(!) try to install on MagPul synthetic stocks! It will destroy your stock. The Loctite they use seems like it’s welded, it’s WAY stronger than polymer. I ruined a $150 MagPul Scout stock that’s going into the trash. Surefire is going for metal AR’s here - do not make my mistake.
You can do far better for far less. You’re paying for branding, marketing, firearm mounting, and extensive firearm testing that isn’t even close to necessary for a bicycle light. There are plenty of options that cater to that need specifically and focus primarily on output and candela. I hate to be that guy, but try Olight. I know they make a bicycle light but don’t know much beyond that. If candela is what you’re after (more throw instead of flood), look for something with a deep reflector like their “warrior pro” or something along those lines (assuming the dedicated bicycle light they make doesn’t meet your needs). I own tons of Surefire lights (they used to be the be all, end all) and wouldn’t recommend them for your application. They’re not even very competitive on output and candela with their competitors, all who have to make sacrifices in the design to cater to firearm mounting and use.
Research “breaking photon barriers.” Also, in many cases, you might be legally or morally justified in pointing a weapon at someone, but maybe not necessarily using it. A powerful light that can clearly reveal who someone is or what someone is doing/holding is definitely something of benefit in a self-defense or security type situation. I’ve personally never been in a situation where using a light was okay and thought, “dang, if only my light wasn’t so bright.” On the issue of breaking photon barriers, think of how you cannot see beyond a cars headlights. If there’s someone behind or just off to the side, you cannot see them or what they’re doing. But if you have a capable light with enough candela, you actually can, and then the roles reverse. But generally, if you’re in a war and engaged in gunfight, you better hope your not having to use white light at all and are instead using NV of some sort. Even still, white light has its place, if you’re inside/around buildings with lots of sporadic artificial light.
I have ONE surefire and it is my worst light. I hate it. It is the Scout dual feed pro(non-turbo, like the one in the video he was using to compare to the turbos, but the full size) it is the dimmest weapon light I own, and the most expensive, I put a surefire tail switch on it and it flickers everytime I press the switch for like 2 seconds and then comes on with out flickering. I had always heard how great and bomb proof they were, I get maybe I got a bad tail switch, it happens, but the dimness for a $300 plus light is all on surefire. ....I want to buy American made stuff, but tell you the truth, all my streamlight protac lights, Just WORK, right out of the box the way they are suppose to, they are less than half the price, and come WITH a tail switch, I don't get nickeled and dimed another $150 bucks for a tail switch and a end cap that the tail switch goes into. Yeah it is chinese made, but you put the streamlight next to the surefire and the build quality looks the same to my eyes, and I have dropped them banged them around treated them like crap, and they ALL still work just fine. They take the same aftermarket mounts asurefire, and none of mine have ever lossened up. I mean like I said, I WANT to buy American made, but sometimes I think these American companies are kinda holding patriots wallets hostage, with their ridiculous prices.....that being said I like the proformance I am seeing here with these turbo lights, I just wish I did not have to pay the extra money for the upgraded TURBO edition to get a light that is actually bright enough to use outside of a house.
I 100% had the exact same experience with two different DF Pros, even after paying to send one in for a warranty claim. They sent back a whole new light with the exact same problem…The problem is the battery. Switch to primaries and be done with it. It’s definitely less output than what the rechargeable is stated to put out, but it’s at least useable that way (indoors anyway, like you say). That light was an absolute flop, and surefire knew it from day 1. They refused to acknowledge the problem and just screwed a whole lot of people. The original 2 cell scout is lighter, slimmer, more reliable, and brighter than the DF using primaries (instead of the rechargeable). The other option is using a different 18650. After that experience though, I completely rethought my decade long faith in the Surefire brand and the idea of using rechargeables in a fighting tool in general.
@@jackjohnson291 Damn, thanks for the information, I will try different batteries and see what that does. I was also thinking of buy a different head for it to try and salvage at least part of the investment. Thanks again!
This video but with a link to the best prices on these lights in the video description: mrgunsngear.org/3LqA65W
Thanks
whats a good price for these?
DO NOT(!) try to install on MagPul synthetic stocks! It will destroy your stock. The Loctite they use seems like it’s welded, it’s WAY stronger than polymer. I ruined a $150 MagPul Scout stock that’s going into the trash. Surefire is going for metal AR’s here - do not make my mistake.
I love my surefire scout but I do think for the $300 price tag. It should come with a pressure pad.
Buy once, cry once. Truer words never spoken.
For these light reviews it would be awesome if you could put a picture of the light with the part number on the frame when you're testing them. It's kinda tough to follow when all these naming conventions are similar. I appreciate you doing these!
Props for surefire finially making the tried and true better. Competition is good. When i look at several manufacturers and have a hard time deciding, this is a good thing. It is also a bad thing for my bank account. Nice video.
I agree about the tailcap. The Z68 clicky is hands down the best for me and the most intuitive, easy to use and reliable. The recess makes it very hard to accidently activate. Currently I'm running an Arisaka 300 series with the Z68 clicky tailcap, the Malkoff E1HTv2 head which is 400 lumens and 18000 candela and the offset mlok mount. It's a great light and mount for $230
MADE IN AMERICA! It's really nice to be able to say that.
Is it really though, a company who shills out for government contracts and screws the taxpayer? Idk if that’s the kind of “America” I support. At that rate, they’re not doing any of us any more favors than China is. I can guarantee they’re pushing to continue this war in Ukraine to continue funneling your sweet tax dollars into their pockets…
I don’t have a problem with a company landing contracts, but they’ve ridden them for way too long, haven’t actually innovated anything in a long while, and their product line is at least 5-10 years behind the competition.
Bernie Sanders is an American; Elizabeth Warren is an American; the Everytown David Hogg is an American. If they owned a flashlight company, would you buy their products over anyone else’s, just because they make them in America?
What kind of people are they supporting with their business? What kind of products do they make in comparison to competitors? -two questions far more important than where a product is made these days.
In some cases, an American made product is politically/ethically far worse than one made with child slave labor in some far off land.
-For what it’s worth.
The hot spot on the mini pro turbo is actually insane.
yup
@@Mrgunsngear It's definitely nice being able to chose your footprint-mini vs. full-size-without giving up much in terms of beam performance.
@@doktorfaustusso what’s the drive towards one or the other?
@@thejoatmoo ah ok thanks
@@guitarthrasher81size, weight + rail space, runtime.
Good on Surefire for joining the Candela squad! I love my Fury DF, but the self-discharge rate of the Surefire 18650's (I have 3 cells; bought new from SF) has been really bad. Whether stored in the light, on my desk, or in the thyrm on my carrier, there are down to 50-60% after 2-3 months. Not great.
I have a used Cloud OWL shipping to me right now and am going to buy the Rein 3.0 micro.... so will report on those cells later. Ping me here for updates.
I’ve had the same experience with SF rechargeables. They’re just not ready for prime time, not by a long shot.
I appreciate them trying to get with the times, but it’s a swing and a miss for me.
The unprotected cloud cells work great for me. Minimal discharge over months in my experience. The rein also has a lot more usable spill and a brighter, larger hotspot as compared to my SF turbo.
If they discharge outside of the light then it’s just the battery. Change the battery not the light, lol.
All 18650 and 18350s suffer from parasitic drain. No matter the cell manufacturers or the flashlight brand. That’s a quirk of the battery, not the light. You have to keep them topped off. Or run CR123s if you want them stored long term.
@@JimDangle-z5t Understood. But losing *that much* (50% in 3 months or less)? Is that amount of loss normal?
I wonder what your neighbors think. "honey the aliens are back, nah its just Mike testing flashlights again."😁
🤣😂🤣
That mini turbo is a little monster that I’ll definitely be looking into.
Thanks for the great show and tell.
It would work well as a handheld patrol light
I own streamlight, cloud defensive, modlite, surefire
their all good
I think I will be sticking with Surefire at the moment
... they're...
What is the advantage of this surefire turbo versus the rein 3.0? I don’t understand what the benefit is? Yeah, you get more battery life but it comes at the cost of performance. The driver that surefire is using does not try to keep the light at max output for as much of the runtime as possible, the light will just overtime slowly starts dropping way below its max output after like an hour of usage (I’m not talking about constant on, I’m talking about using it intermittently and giving the light time to cool down)
It feels like surefire is just trying to pad out the run time over the Rein by configuring the driver to have the light gradually trail off instead of what the rein does, which is try to give you the most output possible for the duration of the run time before quickly dying
Are there practical advantages to the beam itself and the lack of flood that makes it more advantageous for things like combat environments with lots of obstructions or something?
@@rondobrondo I don't really geek out over lights, nothing wrong with that, their all too expensive for what they are, and honestly, between those top brands, the differences are minimal, nothing wrong with Cloud Defensive, or Modlite but I prefer the brand Surefire, their backing and history etc. I also like how the Surefire comes with pic / mlok mount out the box.
Damn, now that's a light. That thing lights up over 100 yards with ease.
Iv shot 300 hundred yards with mine
Appreciate the great info and demo man. Just ordered a M640DFT after watching for my DDM4ISR
Just picked up one for my home defense Beretta A300 Ultima Patrol.
I always appreciate your light reviews. Its hard to tell what lights are good and why.
I just got the x300 turbo for my edc and I'm sold, I wanna get one of these for my carbine.
Thanks for the video!
Outstandinf review! The new turbo mini looks perfect for what I want. I only wish that surefire would make these with the original dual post mounts like the previous series.
Wow those lights are awesome 👍
Nice watch dude. Baller.
Can you do a review on the edc2DFT and the EDC1DFT
Great review Mike, thanks!
I would be interesting to hear your thoughts on the Cloud Defensive Rain 3.0.
I stand by Surefire till my dying day! And then some!
Excellent comparison!
But the price for a flashlights is crazy 😮
No REIN 3 to compare?
Can you do a video comparing the Cloud Defense Rein 3.0 to the Modlight and SureFire?
Any idea when the sig romeo-x red dot review will be up?
Just did an Arisaka build, I can’t believe I paid more than $100 for a DS switch. I just HAD to have it, it is nice though.
Arisaka makes some nice stuff.
DS is the way. Best build quality and a button for backup should your remote/cable die.
My last 3 light builds are all Modlite x Axon from Arisaka. No regret.
I wonder if they will have problems with the heads like the surefire 640df did.
Another Great Review 💯 Thank you 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
As always thanks ✔
Id like to see a pro vs rein 3.0...
Any cap covers to prevent accidental ND light activation?
I actually like subjective opinion videos - it’s good insight of the reviewer for the viewers. That said, I’d like to recommend a video(s) dedicated to a Top 5 format (rifles, lights, etc.). Just a thought, as you don’t really do those sort of videos.
Do i need this light for larping? No. Am i going to buy the mini because if the drip? Yes
I would like to see a comparison video on the nightstick LGL-160.
I have the full size pro turbo scout. Could I just buy the m340 body and put the head on it from the 640?
The more I use my gear the less I care about extreme performance. I just want a light that's usable, light weight and durable. I wish they'd come out with a ultralight version of the Scout 300V
It’s all relative. I remember getting a LED light when they first hit the market here in the US. I was so stoked about how “bright” the thing was. I came across that thing the other day and popped some fresh batteries in it just for the heck of it. My fond memory of it was completely diminished when I quickly recognized that I have a brighter light built into my cellphone now.
I can appreciate not caring about being on the bleeding edge of tech when it comes to something so rudimentary, but there is certainly something to staying relatively close to the edge (or at least knowing where the edge is). If a guy can overwhelm your white light with something boasting 10x the candela and output, that definitely puts you at a disadvantage, as you can now not see beyond the light, who is carrying it, if it’s mounted to a weapon, etc, etc..
Popping cardboard silhouettes on a flat range or a shoot house is one thing, but facing an equally or better equipped opponent with an equal amount of training is something else. Like NV, it’s an advantage you actually can buy.
I only have a 300 lumen white light on my PEQ 😂
Do you think there is an actual difference in the driver/emitter/optics between the scout mini turbo pro vs scout turbo pro?
A comparison that’s needed: the original 2 cell scout and the DF scout 2 cell turbo (DF using primaries, not the rechargeable).
From what I can tell with the basic 2 cell DF (not turbo), the original scout (again, not using their rechargeable in the DF) is brighter, lighter, and slimmer.
The rechargeables are convenient (when they work), but I’m not going to bet my life on them working when I need them to. I’m sure guys in the field would much rather just pop in fresh batteries than call timeout so they can charge their electronics, but that’s just one man’s opinion. With the drop in performance, if you’re not 100% going to be trusting the rechargeables, it seems the OG scout (2 cell) is still the best option…that is, unless the turbo is any different than the original DF.
Wished you pulled out the rein 3.0!
Is that a yacht master you have? 😮
not sure if I like the fact that it leaves a very strong beam trail right towards you. Doesn't this basically just point out to enemies where you are?
5 years ago maybe. Until they can package lumens and candela in a light with acceptable run time they’re still the Gen 3 Glock 17 of lights. Great work horses that fell behind in the market and lost market share to genuinely better features with equal reliability.
Also, please consider covering those “techniques” you mention to create flood with a high-candela light. Are you talking about diffusers or just hitting something brightly colored in the vicinity? You have my curiosity.
probably referring to umbrella lighting, or using the floor.
Need a Streamlight turbo series. At half the cost.
Are they having problems with the dft turbo?
Sorry I don’t understand something here about these modern, premium, LED, 18650 powered. weapon lights. (I’m not talking about things like the Modlite HOG OKW, or the Weltool W65L LEP light with 175000 candela but has a spill lens on it to make it more usable. I’m just talking about 18650 high candela weapon lights)
Is there any advantage at all to the surefire turbo lights over the Cloud Rein 3.0? Like yeh the battery life is better, but that’s only because the surefire has much less output and because they have the driver set up to let the light keep running and gradually lose output until it dies, versus the cloud rein which tries to give you as much output as long as possible and then as soon as it’s not able to do max or near max output anymore, then it will rapidly die.
Like, now that you can use the rein legacy bodies or the surefire tail cap adaptor to use surefire switches, is there any practical advantage to these turbo surefire lights versus the rein? Like is the smaller beam and less flood more useful in tactical or combat situations? Is there any practical advantage to this light over a Rein? Yeah the longer battery life is nice, but most of that extra battery life comes at the cost of cutting the output in half and then gradually dying and dropping it down to zero. Like in terms of full output, you only get about the same amount of time as like a Rein anyway, and then you have a light that has terrible performance at only like 430 lumens and 50,000 candela.
Like, why would you not rather have a light that gives you as much full output as possible, because once that surefire starts to drop, then you basically have a light that is not going to fulfill the purpose that you bought it for, and so then you are gonna have to swap out the battery anyway, and so now you have a light that preserved more of its battery, but gives you way less performance.
So is there some practical use of this that I’m not understanding the benefit of? like does it actually make it easier for you to shoot past barricades or other kinds of environmental cover like tree, branches, or walls or whatever?
Dey works on a 12 gauge shots gun?
Do they make tinted covers for them just in case you are inside?
They do, but I don’t know if they’re specific for whatever model you’re looking at. They’re just rubber slip over filters (in a variety of colors). I use one on a SF EDC-1 pretty often in the woods.
Surefire is still catching up as Modliite released HOG light, which has more performance than any lights shown in this viideo
Was debating on the og mini & the mini turbo for a home defense shotgun. Would you recommend the og over the turbo for that application?
Personally, I would. A light with that much throw isn't really necessary for lighting up, identifying a target, and potentially taking fire, at the typical ranges you wiuld be using a shotgun. Having that throw would be good for blinding, but if its primarily for indoors I would go with a little more spill to provide a wider picture.
I agree with him, I have both the OG pro mini and the turbos and for in my house I’m sticking with my OG one with more spill and it’s plenty bright enough for home defense. A shotgun doesn’t have a range farther than the OG can illuminate anyway. That being said, if you were using it on a rifle and want to be able to see farther outside of your house on your property, then that’s something to take into consideration too and the turbo may be better. If you do go with the turbo, make sure you learn and practice proper light techniques for room clearing with a high candela light because since you won’t have as much spill and really need to know how to use the hot spot effectively.
What pressure switch do you recommend for the Compact Dual Fuel High-Candela WeaponLight?
I just got the mini and am using the SFRDSSR07 surefire, its solid and has all the capabilities you want, tha packaging says any surefire switch will work with it
@@Stfu9785 thank you so much for the reply and info -- I really appreciate it. I found a SR07 pressure pad that includes a socket adapter on amazon for a decent price thanks to your help. The model number is UE-SR07-BK. Can't wait until it comes!
How does this compare to the cloud rein 3.0?
Serious comment/question: It seems like most of the light companies are always trying to catch up to (the dreaded and even hated) olight when it comes to output because olight seems to always be ahead in terms of outright power, especially for the size of the light.
What are your true thoughts on that?
That Olight Javalot Tac is badass for less than the $100 I paid....It's rockin 88,000 candela and 1000 lms not to mention Olight added a lifetime warranty on any light bought in 2023 forward
I own tons of Surefire lights, among several other top manufacturers. However, when I walk my dogs down the drive at night or am looking around the farm at something in the dark, I’m usually using an Olight Warrior X that I got years ago when they came out. I’ve grown accustomed to having that level of illuminating power, to the point that when I switch back to a surefire that’s also using an 18650, I find myself pretty frustrated having invested so heavily in what’s already outdated technology the day it’s released. Surefire needs to get ahead of this ball before it’s too late (it really already is).
I own several x300s (various models) and currently don’t use a single one. The gun on my nightstand right next to me has a Valkyrie pro mounted on it, because it’s just so much better in terms of overall output, beam quality, color, and candela. I can say much of the same about my Surefire Scouts too, unfortunately.
People can hate on Olight all they want, it means little to me, but they’re simply making more powerful and capable lights than most of the US market. If they’d cut back on the marketing hype, flash sale crud, proprietary charging/batteries, and other gimmicks, they’d probably get more recognition in the US gun market. They need to stop the frills, like they’ve done with their handgun lights, and just offer a serious, clean, minimalist looking light that performs like all the rest. The crenelated bezels and all that are a hinderance on a rifle, and no one wants a random splash of blue (a very distinguishable color in the woods) around the bezel of their weapon light. They also need to get with the clicky game. While their tailswitch is innovative and convenient for charging, it’s just not reliably repeatable. Tape switches are great when they work, but I’ve broken every single one I’ve ever used extensively (regardless of who makes them), so I don’t even bother anymore.
100k candela?! I'm selling all my modlites now.
If you like candela, check out the modlite hog. The okw reports 170k candela for your pleasure.
Surprised there isn't more of a weight difference between the two lights.
Wish I could find one of these in the $250 range
PSA with coupon will get you there. 👍
So store cr123's that if availability stopped (supply chain issues during war) you have limited supply and shelf life is 10 years as you throw them away each use.... Or, 18650's that are used in every battery power tool, battery powered car, are literally in almost every garage, and can be charged via solar or any other power backup? I'll take 18650 rechargeables!
Im being told that you CANT put 2 cr123 batteries in a turbo which uses 18650 batteries because that would create a series and increase the voltage to 6-7V rather than 3.6V and potentially burn out the light. Cant find a straight answer anywhere as to whether the 18650 lights can handle the voltage increase of 2 cr123 batteries.
What are your guys’ favorite lights for CQB/Home Defense light?
Just picked up a Cloud Defensive Rein 3.0
🙏🏽🇺🇸
That is a cool shirt. Also, for $300, you'd think they could make that in America.
OMG What'd you win!!? Lmao 😂
@@yupyup4209I don't understand your comment.
@@withoutfurtheradoforever lol there was another comment that I guess got deleted. It was one of those fake mrgunsngear profiles saying congratulations you won a prize
@yupyup4209 oh ha! Now it makes sense.
I don't think you mentioned this, but are the turbo bodies compatible with the older scout bodies?
I would like to know this as well.
@@ryansealy1233 I went to the surefire website for this. It will work however you have to have a KM-2 series head and or one other type I don't remember the second. But it's on the website if you look up the PRO body.
Still waiting for the handheld models....
100k candela is useless inside a building but great outside. PLHv2 is superior to all for indoor use. Because that's what I bought, it's obviously the best.
🇺🇲🦅🇺🇲
My SCAR 17 killed a Dual Fuel instantly. Pretty disappointed with Sure Fire
would be great for the outdoors but inside would probably be blinding.
I bought a new m600df right before they announced these , kinda pisses me off
Watch that surefire warranty. They will not warranty m952v without receipt from authorized dealer.
Mr. GNG, Please review Goonbeam Assault Flashlight. 110,000 Candella 1800 Lumens & about $120. Very interested in what you think of it.
FREE LIBERTY SAFE with Purchase of 12 Pack of BUD LITE
I like Surefire products but they sure as hell take their time updating their products. Cloud and Modlite have been killing the WML game for years.
Turbo mini with a mod button looks like the move…
I’m hearing the cloud 3.0 is better.
Tape switch and never not tape switch Mike, =)
Just use it heavily for a month or two, I’ll wait.
So how many times did you drop something on deck & fall in water ? lol gives me the jitters
💲💲💲💲💲💲
Goonbeam Assault Flashlight is the ultimate throw monster.
Modlite and cloud defensive >
so this are for hunting and camping ??' defetnly not for the city and cops
No cloud love
This video isn’t about cloud defensive products lol.
Cloud was really the first to do Candela in complete lights (not hating on Modlight, etc). Even the 55k OWL is still not far off from these in output terms. 55k candela, but 1250 lumens OTF.
@DBravo29er in numbers maybe, but visually it is very far off
@@chaoticcaninejb How do you think that? OWL compared *directly* with Rein 2.0 full size and they aren't very different. The Rein 2.0 is rated at 71k candela/1100 lumens. 100k candela/750 lumens isn't going to look radically different. Neither have any of the OKW's I've seen. Just not enormous differences from the OWL.
Going from my 25.2k candela/1500 lumen Fury DF, they are all superior.
@@DBravo29erby comparing them side by side
That’s Cloud Defense Rein 3 money… and they’re 120,000 candela, 1,000 lumen I believe, I got one on my HD AR. And what he’s saying about room clearing is right, yeah it CAN blind you but if you’re not being careless, meh not much of a problem imo.
Surefire Pro's only pro is the mounting
Meh, I'd rather run Cloud Defensive's REIN.
Surefire is STILL Way behind on lumen output.🤨
Bro pimpin gold like everyone else. In SHTF no one will want it
DO NOT(!) try to install on MagPul synthetic stocks! It will destroy your stock. The Loctite they use seems like it’s welded, it’s WAY stronger than polymer. I ruined a $150 MagPul Scout stock that’s going into the trash. Surefire is going for metal AR’s here - do not make my mistake.
When you look at weapon lights for a pedal bike.... cuz I want a high beam, not a $20 Chinese candle.
You can do far better for far less. You’re paying for branding, marketing, firearm mounting, and extensive firearm testing that isn’t even close to necessary for a bicycle light. There are plenty of options that cater to that need specifically and focus primarily on output and candela. I hate to be that guy, but try Olight. I know they make a bicycle light but don’t know much beyond that. If candela is what you’re after (more throw instead of flood), look for something with a deep reflector like their “warrior pro” or something along those lines (assuming the dedicated bicycle light they make doesn’t meet your needs).
I own tons of Surefire lights (they used to be the be all, end all) and wouldn’t recommend them for your application. They’re not even very competitive on output and candela with their competitors, all who have to make sacrifices in the design to cater to firearm mounting and use.
If you can afford it: surefire for illumination or nothing. You buy once, cry once.
Streamlight batteries work in them??..
A battery is a battery, you have to take them out to charge them.
@@fredted1611 haha I get that but I have alot of stream lights on firearms and extra batteries...
@@jeremiahjohnson6971
A CR123 battery is a CR123 battery doesn't matter if Surefire,Stream light or Eveready the fuckin bunny made them.
@@fredted1611 so they won't work?
@@jeremiahjohnson6971
Your fuckin stupid man, sure hope you don't have firearms as idiots like you are the problem.
Surefire needs to leave California
I bought thermals and am out of
Money please stop
I don’t know why you would want someone 100+ yards away to know you are looking at them… especially in a gunfight. 😂
Research “breaking photon barriers.”
Also, in many cases, you might be legally or morally justified in pointing a weapon at someone, but maybe not necessarily using it. A powerful light that can clearly reveal who someone is or what someone is doing/holding is definitely something of benefit in a self-defense or security type situation. I’ve personally never been in a situation where using a light was okay and thought, “dang, if only my light wasn’t so bright.”
On the issue of breaking photon barriers, think of how you cannot see beyond a cars headlights. If there’s someone behind or just off to the side, you cannot see them or what they’re doing. But if you have a capable light with enough candela, you actually can, and then the roles reverse.
But generally, if you’re in a war and engaged in gunfight, you better hope your not having to use white light at all and are instead using NV of some sort. Even still, white light has its place, if you’re inside/around buildings with lots of sporadic artificial light.
I have to stop watching this channel. It's like punishment for us poors lol.
I have ONE surefire and it is my worst light. I hate it. It is the Scout dual feed pro(non-turbo, like the one in the video he was using to compare to the turbos, but the full size) it is the dimmest weapon light I own, and the most expensive, I put a surefire tail switch on it and it flickers everytime I press the switch for like 2 seconds and then comes on with out flickering. I had always heard how great and bomb proof they were, I get maybe I got a bad tail switch, it happens, but the dimness for a $300 plus light is all on surefire. ....I want to buy American made stuff, but tell you the truth, all my streamlight protac lights, Just WORK, right out of the box the way they are suppose to, they are less than half the price, and come WITH a tail switch, I don't get nickeled and dimed another $150 bucks for a tail switch and a end cap that the tail switch goes into. Yeah it is chinese made, but you put the streamlight next to the surefire and the build quality looks the same to my eyes, and I have dropped them banged them around treated them like crap, and they ALL still work just fine. They take the same aftermarket mounts asurefire, and none of mine have ever lossened up. I mean like I said, I WANT to buy American made, but sometimes I think these American companies are kinda holding patriots wallets hostage, with their ridiculous prices.....that being said I like the proformance I am seeing here with these turbo lights, I just wish I did not have to pay the extra money for the upgraded TURBO edition to get a light that is actually bright enough to use outside of a house.
I 100% had the exact same experience with two different DF Pros, even after paying to send one in for a warranty claim. They sent back a whole new light with the exact same problem…The problem is the battery. Switch to primaries and be done with it. It’s definitely less output than what the rechargeable is stated to put out, but it’s at least useable that way (indoors anyway, like you say). That light was an absolute flop, and surefire knew it from day 1. They refused to acknowledge the problem and just screwed a whole lot of people. The original 2 cell scout is lighter, slimmer, more reliable, and brighter than the DF using primaries (instead of the rechargeable).
The other option is using a different 18650. After that experience though, I completely rethought my decade long faith in the Surefire brand and the idea of using rechargeables in a fighting tool in general.
@@jackjohnson291 Damn, thanks for the information, I will try different batteries and see what that does. I was also thinking of buy a different head for it to try and salvage at least part of the investment. Thanks again!