I'm not trying to be a shmuck Frank .. but I always tell anyone whose doing luthier work to only use TiteBond Original .. Because it requires a lot less heat to release than Titebond 2 or 3 .. You should be okay on this because usually you never have to take a mandolin neck off to do a reset.. I have found that I use different glues for different things nowadays.. Titebond original mostly but on the back, fingerboard I'll use hide glue ... if I am using wood binding I'll use fish glue because it will take the least amount of heat to remove. However that doesn't work well with plastics.. it will ,but if you live in a dry section of the country it will come loose as the wood shrinks from lack of moisture.. Botton line is that a person should always think about what will happen if you need to repair it later .. Like if the any braces come loose so bad you have to remove the back , how easily will that back and binding come off in order to properly repair it, without doing a bunch damage to the wood with minimal tearout.. Just an insight.... But on an instrument, Original Titebond is more than enough to hold... That's why most manufacturers and luthiers use it. I'm sure you know to only use a water based glue no matter what except for certain repairs and inlay where CA glue prettymuch has to be used .. Your mandolin is looking good .. I was wondering what the wood was like in those kits .... been thinking about buying one and carving my own top because I already have some quartersawn Adirondack spruce for the top , which is what Loyd Loar mandolins are made of .. I think you convinced me that the flames maple is nice .. I'm going to buy the kit .
I hate to watch luthiers grab Titebond 2 or Titebond 3 ... It makes future future repairs very hard ...because they now have to have twice as much heat to take it apart... Original Titebond is the key ...it will hold every joint just fine .... Hope that neck never needs repaired or replaced .. I know neck repairs are rare .. I remember a guy that wanted a wider custom neck ... I just think about the long time that steam would have have to go to break that loose .. and the higher heat ... not fun . Luckily it was glued with hIde glue ..( which I consider the worst holding glue )
I'm not trying to be a shmuck Frank .. but I always tell anyone whose doing luthier work to only use TiteBond Original ..
Because it requires a lot less heat to release than Titebond 2 or 3 .. You should be okay on this because usually you never have to take a mandolin neck off to do a reset..
I have found that I use different glues for different things nowadays..
Titebond original mostly but on the back, fingerboard I'll use hide glue ... if I am using wood binding I'll use fish glue because it will take the least amount of heat to remove. However that doesn't work well with plastics.. it will ,but if you live in a dry section of the country it will come loose as the wood shrinks from lack of moisture..
Botton line is that a person should always think about what will happen if you need to repair it later ..
Like if the any braces come loose so bad you have to remove the back , how easily will that back and binding come off in order to properly repair it, without doing a bunch damage to the wood with minimal tearout..
Just an insight.... But on an instrument, Original Titebond is more than enough to hold... That's why most manufacturers and luthiers use it.
I'm sure you know to only use a water based glue no matter what except for certain repairs and inlay where CA glue prettymuch has to be used ..
Your mandolin is looking good .. I was wondering what the wood was like in those kits .... been thinking about buying one and carving my own top because I already have some quartersawn Adirondack spruce for the top , which is what Loyd Loar mandolins are made of .. I think you convinced me that the flames maple is nice .. I'm going to buy the kit .
I hate to watch luthiers grab Titebond 2 or Titebond 3 ... It makes future future repairs very hard ...because they now have to have twice as much heat to take it apart...
Original Titebond is the key ...it will hold every joint just fine ....
Hope that neck never needs repaired or replaced .. I know neck repairs are rare .. I remember a guy that wanted a wider custom neck ... I just think about the long time that steam would have have to go to break that loose .. and the higher heat ... not fun .
Luckily it was glued with hIde glue ..( which I consider the worst holding glue )