Right on! Just did another CSL job last night and it went on super easy. If you can get your humidity around 50% it’s a very user friendly coating to install.
I have just ordered some serum light and was feeling a little nervous - this is a really well explained great video and feeling more confident now - thanks very much :)
Thank you for this very informative demo! I purchased CSL to apply to my new car & glad I found your step by step process. I do have 1 question, you said you use brand new towels out of the pack, I get my MF towels from TRC & they always have a card saying “Wash before first use” now I’m not a professional Detailer so I’ve always followed those instructions. I have a new pack of 4 Edgeless 350 ultra plush towels that I planned to use when applying CSL so I’m now conflicted as your a professional & use new from the pack but they say to wash before use. This is an honest question as this will be my first time applying a ceramic coating & I want to make sure I do it right. Thanks!
Hi there! I'm glad the video was helpful! Those are some nice towels and will work great when leveling the coating. I've never washed towels right out of the pack :) It's more than likely a disclaimer from the manufacturer to make sure there's no dye or residue left from the factory. A good solid shake and visual inspection is all I do when I pull them out of the bag! Good luck and let me know how it goes!
@@high-defdetailing1485 Thanks for the quick response! That makes sense & I hope to get the CSL on my car soon. I just subscribed to your channel & will update after completion!
Good video, very helpful thanks! Could Crystal Serum Light be applied outdoors on a striing of non rainy days, with a second person watching the flash times and towel levelling right behind? Or is a garage/shop mandatory? My garage is poorly lit, and I believe the sunlight would help to avoid missing smears and high spots.
Thanks for the kind words and glad the video was helpful! I would avoid applying this coating outside at all costs. B/c of the nature of the coating, it cures with humidity, and can do some funky things if your humidity goes up while applying. I would recommend just investing in some basic LED lights (even a portable stand one like a work light) and try it in your garage vs. outside!
If you are on your desktop, you can actually see the change from when you applied it to when it starts looking streaky or sweating beads. My question is how beady (I dont know if that is the right word to describe it) does it have to be before wiping, or is it a consistent instant reaction?
Good question! You kind of gauge it based off of how quickly they start to appear. If the beads show up right away that means the coating is being absorbed quickly and you can wipe it off relatively quickly. If you see the beads slowly start to pop up I’d wait until the surface looks about 60% saturated with beads. It’s really a process that you have to “feel out” for each vehicle and each weather scenario. As long as that first wipe off goes effortlessly you’re good to go! If you start feeling a lot of drag on the towel for the first wipe you’ve waited to long. Once you do a couple sections of the car you can dial in the timing for the rear of the vehicle!
Glad it helped! You can wipe on wipe off but you are definitely losing some of the bond that way. Waiting for those little beads to show up is key! Just wipe quickly then once you start leveling and be sure to check your adjacent panels. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! It is safe to use on paint, painted plastics, vinyl/decals/stripes, and even textured plastics. You can also use it on wheels. It is not recommended for glass or rubber weather stripping so you wouldn’t really get any results in that application.
Very helpful! Just did the prep work and going to apply the coating next. What if there’s dust on the surface during the curing phase? Say I do a layer of CSL and I wait 1-2 hours and there’s dust on the surface, would you just dry wipe with a clean towel before applying EXO?
Thanks! Light dust during the curing phase shouldn't be an issue. I wouldn't dry wipe though if you think there's enough to remove. I would just use an air compressor and blow off the entire vehicle before applying your Exo layer.
Thanks for watching! I got the light and cover from a local guy here that makes them. They are now available here! oberkcarcare.com/products/adaptiv-paint-inspection-light
Do you use the same three towels for the whole car or do you swap towels during the process? Do you have Amazon / equiv. Links of the towels and applicator you used so we can buy the same ones? I'm buying a brand new car so wanted to apply it straight away. Presumably I'd still need to wash it but won't need the bar? What is colour correction that you mentioned at the start? Is that applicable for a new car?
Awesome - congrats on the new car! Even with it being brand new it will need a clay bar and at a minimum a light paint correction. Check out my video here that explains paint correction! If you're not comfortable doing this I would recommend you have a certified detail shop do it for you. ua-cam.com/video/4RGWs_ST-xQ/v-deo.html I use the same 3 towels for the entire vehicle. I rotate each one to a clean side every 2-3 sections and it usually gets me through an entire car. I'll link some suggested towels and applicators below. Good luck! Applicators: www.amazon.com/Applicator-Microfiber-Sponge-Plastic-Barrier/dp/B07VXS51J2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=QBRFZ5LGR7AH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.csTtG1iw_cYHSdZgQWshV21aEI1QwUk_cWo4_TMUFgQvGSQdkNadlX5qqlsN0jo16a8uvM8ueNgoRYnuVVeEntJONeTfIJSzmGT2EmF4R4ngpMUEAjSHaKcVCYHwRg6C5Be7wLwEd_pdOZ0Qe7G1vI9-3pgwumGm5EP-UEarzljsW2wuKTsa5XF-zI7kC7zTV3gIPozXIgxtVcx0kn016zIr1MM8qEmLAEpxWEos-7p3bYk83GbCnucvHQj6nfwe6nH6g0avZnnZ7vK4fiWA8_VWU7MR-jVaQhli-8qenlI.LCaKcmY-36a5Psp_Hi-3PUM9GHxaPewWNN-h2ZDSbYU&dib_tag=se&keywords=autofiber+applicator&qid=1730197375&sprefix=autofiber+applicator%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 Towels: www.amazon.com/Everything-Premium-Paintwork-Coating-Leveling/dp/B0B7LY9VT9/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PKXAW16QCJT3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.y8u26Ti7rfL9dd0_BmIStewX1n9jzDupm6LYGzffu7BUcH4oTl_QL1jw_H3bEBwmHoHeNNOwwKt1WX4ltSf7znNS5L1tTgyKZEy4YlKAqG5lWO9nQOLx8fvKqADBcXJD.ZVXw3k9e99g8mnT0NQoo0wWZPGczzoR-6m2WTAjeY5g&dib_tag=se&keywords=autofiber+mr+everything&qid=1730197415&sprefix=autofiber+mr+ever%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-1
It's a combination of solvents specifically designed to remove oils from the surface. I'm not sure of the exact chemistry make up but it's definitely more than just Isopropyl Alcohol. It's the only paint prep I'll use with Gtechniq coatings!
You will always want to do a thorough prep wash and polish/paint correction before getting to this point where I started in the video. A solid prep wash includes using a degreaser, bug and tar remover if needed, iron remover, hand wash, and a clay bar.
Thank you for the great video! Very well laid out and appreciate all the tips. Could you share which light you are using, and do you recall who makes that filter? My scan grip with diffuse filter does not seem to highlight all the highspots. I've tried several but your set-up looks like a home run. thanks for any guidance.
Thank you! So the light I am using is definitely brighter than the scan grips and works great for this scenario. I purchased it straight from a local distributer and it was unbranded at the time. Now you can get it from a few different sources. Here's one:lakecountrymfg.com/lc-power-tools-handheld-light/
@@high-defdetailing1485 Thank you so much. I actually ordered the LC last night. I am having trouble finding that sweet filter diffuser though.( I think that's my problem - too much direct light, not enough diffusion like a cloudy day would provide.)
Congrats on the new car! Yes, you always need to the the prep work for the best result. You need to make sure everything is perfectly clean and preferably polished before moving onto the coating step. Even if the dealership “details” it you’ll want to remove whatever they put on there first.
Hi Thx for getting back to me. Just to clarify, the dealer will have the car polished, you suggest for me to clay bar that off & add my own polish? The car has never been on the road btw so won’t have any dirt in the paint.
Correct. Typical dealer prep involves polishing with a "glaze" or all in one that will add wax and fillers. That needs to be gone before applying a coating. Brand new vehicles unfortunately are coming with tons of contaminants in the paint. Lots of rail dust and dirt embedded in the clear!
I know I'm a little late to this video. Great explanation. I'm a mobile detailer. I'm going to get the same coating from.my detail shop. I had a question what is that light called & filter? Would appreciate it brother!
Awesome! It's a pretty user friendly coating even if you're in someone else's garage and climate control isn't the greatest (certainly helps, but CSL is nice to work with!) I sourced the light locally but you can also find info on it here: lakecountrymfg.com/lc-power-tools-handheld-light/
I would not recommend any type of wax over the top of this coating. Gtechniq makes a product specifically designed to be used as a maintenance topper to any of their coatings. It’s called “Ceramic Sealant” and I would definitely use that instead!
Great question! If it's gloss vinyl you can lightly polish it (just be careful on the edges). If it's matte vinyl I'd just panel wipe it and go right to coating! It will slightly add some sheen to a matte vinyl stripe FYI
Customer wants a ceramic coating on his matte finish bike and wants a little gloss… you recommend using csl or do I still use a matte designed ceramic coating.
CSL will add a bit of gloss making it more of a Satin finish. I personally think it looks awesome. If you want to keep more of the matte look you can always go with something like Gtechniq C1 👍🏻
Thanks! I sourced mine locally from a distributer but I believe they are now sourced through a few different companies. This looks to be the same one! lakecountrymfg.com/lc-power-tools-handheld-light/
Can you use the same towels throughout the whole car? For instance can you use the same area of the first towel on the next panel without flipping it to another section of the towel? Will washing the towels remove the product so you can use for other tasks later, or do you have to dispose of them?
There’s plenty of different opinions on this one, but personally I toss my coating towels after an install. Washing them won’t remove the cured coating in the towel. With CSL you can use the same side of the leveling towel for a couple sections. I use 3 towels for almost vehicles.
Thanks! You can apply it to plastics, but I would stay clear of glass. There are plenty of glass-specific coatings out there that will work much better than a paint coating!
I prime the pad with 2-3 full droppers. Then I put about one dropper-full of coating per section/panel. A 30ml bottle should be enough for almost all vehicles.
You could probably downgrade those to an interior towel or a "dirty job" towel if you really want to save them. Since I"m operating a business and do several coatings a week I just toss them just to be safe. I buy them in bulk so it's not a big expense.
I would not apply this on windshield or glass. G1 is a specific glass coating by Gtechniq which works great on all glass. Crystal Serum Light over PPF like DYNOshield works great! I've done it several times. You can also try Halo over PPF as well.
@@high-defdetailing1485 Halo ? Is that another brand of ceramic coating ? If so, how does it compare to gtechniq applying, durability and lasting ? Nvm I'll read more into Halo products. Might be something perfect for my situation.
@@michaelchu802 It's a coating made by Gtechniq specifically designed for PPF. Halo is SUPER EASY to apply, and should have similar durability to Crystal Serum Light.
It’s safe on trim but can alter the appearance slightly (in a good way!). You can use either coating intentionally on trim and it will darken it slightly and add some protection, but it won’t last as long as it does on the painted surfaces as it was designed to bond with clear coat. If you accidentally get some on the trim when applying it to the paint or wiping it off, just wipe the trim quickly and you’re good to go!
💥 Seems like a substantial amount of the product is soaked deep into that thick applicator. Especially by squeezing it like you showed. I bet there is another half a cars worth in there that’s left behind.
I actually had someone make it for me. I believe it’s just a basic type of pvc plastic. It allows enough light through that’s diffused. I think you can buy them on oberkcarcare’s website now
You’re welcome! I’m typically around 90 minutes to do a full decon wash and clay. Then paint correction depends on how bad the paint is so anywhere from 3 hours to 10 hours of polishing. After that, about 30 minutes to wipe down the car twice and it’s ready to coat!
you said that you want to wait til you see it bead but on the serum light box it says to wipe off immediately. But letting it set makes more sense than to just wipe it off immediately
Correct. They probably say that on the box for ease of application and to limit the risk of getting high spots. But waiting a good 30-45 seconds is the sweet spot I feel
I researched thoroughly about this coating and found out that the "proper" application of serum was 1 layer and then 2 Layers of exo. But my boss insists that I use 2 layers of serum and then 2 Layers of exo. I found out that this aint recommended, what do you think wil happen if I follow the 2 serum 2 exo method?
CSL is a one layer coating , exo used to be a two layer coating, but the new version is one layer . I have used CSL around 100 times and honestly I have never seen the benefit of topping it with exo . Csl by itself has worked for me amazingly well. I’m getting over four years easily with it on daily driver cars ..
@@punkr6 i thought of this two as I gain experience about this coatings overtime, but you know "marketing" shits insists that the more the coats the better it is. So I do that shlt, even tho i knew there wasnt any benefits of it
CSL is a composite based coating, not quartz based, which means it has no benefits of being stacked in layers with itself. You'd be wasting time and product to do several layers of CSL. The new version of Exo (Version 5) only requires one layer and I have seen some great performance out of it!
@@punkr6 I used to agree and rarely topped with Exov4, but the new version has performed much better so far. If you maintain your vehicle well and wash regularly CSL by itself will be great, but the new Exo is a nice addition for sure!
It’s a great coating all by itself! Exo will deepen the gloss even more (adds sort of a glow to the paint) and add better hydrophobic properties. It’s totally up to you!
I’ve actually gone back and forth and recently found out it depends on humidity in the shop that day honestly. In higher humidity sometimes the thicker gsm towels can be too “grabby” and leave a bit of lint behind, so I use a 350 gsm shirt knap in that case. Higher gsm towels still absorb waaaaaay more coating though so you can get by with 3 for the whole car! For crystal serum light the higher gsm still work the best imo.
@@high-defdetailing1485 cool appreciate the reply! Just applied last night and I found the same. Outside it’s 102 with 20% RH. Indoors i have the mini split running so it’s 70 and I’m guessing way higher RH. Tried a Korean plush 500 gsm and I had to run it with 2 hands cause like you said it would grab on too much. Used an Autofiber quadrant towel and it was perfect. Shifted the coating to other panels still but less grabby. I’ll try messing with towels though 👊🏻
@@Detailpops That sounds exactly like my experience as well! I like the Autofiber Mr. Everything towels for coating leveling if I"m not using the plush ones. Keep on rocking!
Fantastic video, looking to get this on my Alfa Guilia when the good weather comes! Quick question, in the video you showed applying CSL to half of the door. If you were doing this normally and not for a video, would you have done the door in one go? Previous ceramic coatings i have used in the past recommended applying the product in small sections, so ultimately took a long time to apply.
Thanks! In good climate controlled conditions I would absolutely do the white door in one go. Crystal Serum Light is pretty forgiving if your conditions are good. If you have high humidity though I’d only do a 1/2 door. Either way, once you start leveling the coating you need to move fast at the point! Good luck!
I never recommend applying any ceramic coating outdoors, but you technically could with this one. It will be a trickier install though and you'll have a high risk of leaving behind smearing and high spots.
I literally just did that today on a Shelby gt500. Good timing! 😂 So the answer is yes! It won’t do much though for looks but may darken them up a bit depending on what kind of vinyl it is. If it’s gloss vinyl it’ll look awesome!
Do you use the same applicator pad for the entire car? Also, when wiping off the Coating do you need to use a fresh section of the microfiber towel for each section?
Yep! One applicator is totally fine for CSL. It won't harden in the applicator as you're applying it so you're good to go. I probably use the same section of the towel a couple times before moving on to the next section of it. Having multiple towels is important though so keep rotating them!
I want to apply crystal cerium light but I don’t have an enclosed garage I just have a roof to put the vehicle under and the weather here is in the 100’s…. My question is that if I wipe immediately after applying or let it sit for a couple of seconds?
I would not recommend applying this coating outdoors. You will be fighting the flash time right away and will lead to a poor installation. Try Exo for a more user friendly coating for outdoors (still not recommended but it might be safer)
Depends on vehicle size, how much paint correction is done prior, geographical demographic, etc. An average price for this coating with proper prep work is $1500
@@fauuzisaid just stick with the paint for this coating. You can put it on plastics if you really want to, but I wouldn’t put it on glass at all. It won’t bond well and will be easily removed.
You can definitely do that, and they probably advise that in their videos as it's a pretty safe way to install without avoiding any potential issues. Letting it sit for a bit is a pro tip though that will give you an even better result if you have a bit more experience!
If your wheels are clear coated it’s a great option. C5 is a better coating for wheels though as it’s designed to bond and hold up better on a wider variety of wheel surfaces.
If you use a big thick applicator like he showed it will suck up a lot of the product on its own. Probably a half a cars worth right there. Did you use the thin one that they provided or a different one?
We see the process, but not any results, are there suppose to be results to see or is this simply a protectorent and no more shininess is expected, you know a good video would have covered these questions,
Pretty useless really, a good polish with a traditional carnauba wax and polishing paste does a better job. But it's expensive and sounds high tech so it must be good, right? It's like British Airways... charge too much money and you can fool a few people into believing it's a superior product.
If you enjoy waxing your car every few months with a paste wax then keep doing what works for you! One of the huge benefits of TRUE ceramic coatings is that you do not need to wax your vehicle for the life of the coating. For most people this saves them lots of time so they can enjoy doing more important things, or even just enjoy driving their vehicle more. There are a lot of products out there that are just a bunch of marketing hype and do not perform well. As long as you do your research and try things out for yourself you can’t go wrong with a true ceramic coating installed by a certified professional.
What you covered here is okay but why not cover everything that way we don’t have ask questions you should have covered. Like how much what amount will cover what size car. If I buy a bottle and ran short, it would be because you did not feel like sharing , basically I think you are very very lacking with a video that is suppose to inform
@@high-defdetailing1485 thanks for the advice! Would Gtechniq be beginner friendly? I want to learn with that brand on my own cars of course. Curious your opinion since you’ve used it
@@ArthurMSoto Gtechniq is not entirely user friendly, although if you have the right temperature and humidity conditions any of the coatings go on pretty easily. You just have to watch out for high spots on areas that you may "smear" the excess coating into. For a real simple coating I'd recommend Optimum Gloss Coat. That's what I started out with for several cars before moving into the Gtechniq line!
That was very well explained. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you..lookin forward to the exo combo.
Peace!
Right on! Just did another CSL job last night and it went on super easy. If you can get your humidity around 50% it’s a very user friendly coating to install.
What part was that the wipe on or the wipe off,
I have just ordered some serum light and was feeling a little nervous - this is a really well explained great video and feeling more confident now - thanks very much :)
Awesome! Best of luck on the install and glad the video was helpful!
Thank you for this very informative demo! I purchased CSL to apply to my new car & glad I found your step by step process. I do have 1 question, you said you use brand new towels out of the pack, I get my MF towels from TRC & they always have a card saying “Wash before first use” now I’m not a professional Detailer so I’ve always followed those instructions. I have a new pack of 4 Edgeless 350 ultra plush towels that I planned to use when applying CSL so I’m now conflicted as your a professional & use new from the pack but they say to wash before use. This is an honest question as this will be my first time applying a ceramic coating & I want to make sure I do it right. Thanks!
Hi there! I'm glad the video was helpful! Those are some nice towels and will work great when leveling the coating. I've never washed towels right out of the pack :) It's more than likely a disclaimer from the manufacturer to make sure there's no dye or residue left from the factory. A good solid shake and visual inspection is all I do when I pull them out of the bag! Good luck and let me know how it goes!
@@high-defdetailing1485 Thanks for the quick response! That makes sense & I hope to get the CSL on my car soon. I just subscribed to your channel & will update after completion!
Thanks for subscribing!@@WARMEZ911
Good video, very helpful thanks!
Could Crystal Serum Light be applied outdoors on a striing of non rainy days, with a second person watching the flash times and towel levelling right behind? Or is a garage/shop mandatory? My garage is poorly lit, and I believe the sunlight would help to avoid missing smears and high spots.
Thanks for the kind words and glad the video was helpful! I would avoid applying this coating outside at all costs. B/c of the nature of the coating, it cures with humidity, and can do some funky things if your humidity goes up while applying. I would recommend just investing in some basic LED lights (even a portable stand one like a work light) and try it in your garage vs. outside!
If you are on your desktop, you can actually see the change from when you applied it to when it starts looking streaky or sweating beads. My question is how beady (I dont know if that is the right word to describe it) does it have to be before wiping, or is it a consistent instant reaction?
Good question! You kind of gauge it based off of how quickly they start to appear. If the beads show up right away that means the coating is being absorbed quickly and you can wipe it off relatively quickly. If you see the beads slowly start to pop up I’d wait until the surface looks about 60% saturated with beads. It’s really a process that you have to “feel out” for each vehicle and each weather scenario. As long as that first wipe off goes effortlessly you’re good to go! If you start feeling a lot of drag on the towel for the first wipe you’ve waited to long. Once you do a couple sections of the car you can dial in the timing for the rear of the vehicle!
Thank You for this! I have always wiped on/wiped off. I'll try letting it sit a little and watching for beads beginning to form.
Glad it helped! You can wipe on wipe off but you are definitely losing some of the bond that way. Waiting for those little beads to show up is key! Just wipe quickly then once you start leveling and be sure to check your adjacent panels. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Is this stuff ok to use on exterior plastics/grill, windows/rubber weather stripping or factory decal/stripes? Any help is appreciated
Thank you! It is safe to use on paint, painted plastics, vinyl/decals/stripes, and even textured plastics. You can also use it on wheels. It is not recommended for glass or rubber weather stripping so you wouldn’t really get any results in that application.
Very helpful! Just did the prep work and going to apply the coating next. What if there’s dust on the surface during the curing phase? Say I do a layer of CSL and I wait 1-2 hours and there’s dust on the surface, would you just dry wipe with a clean towel before applying EXO?
Thanks! Light dust during the curing phase shouldn't be an issue. I wouldn't dry wipe though if you think there's enough to remove. I would just use an air compressor and blow off the entire vehicle before applying your Exo layer.
Yes sir can I still using panel wipe after one year I read the battle but it doesn’t have any inspiration day
Nice video, thanks. Where can I purchase the light and cover for it?
Thanks for watching! I got the light and cover from a local guy here that makes them. They are now available here! oberkcarcare.com/products/adaptiv-paint-inspection-light
Do you use the same three towels for the whole car or do you swap towels during the process?
Do you have Amazon / equiv. Links of the towels and applicator you used so we can buy the same ones?
I'm buying a brand new car so wanted to apply it straight away. Presumably I'd still need to wash it but won't need the bar? What is colour correction that you mentioned at the start? Is that applicable for a new car?
Awesome - congrats on the new car! Even with it being brand new it will need a clay bar and at a minimum a light paint correction. Check out my video here that explains paint correction! If you're not comfortable doing this I would recommend you have a certified detail shop do it for you.
ua-cam.com/video/4RGWs_ST-xQ/v-deo.html
I use the same 3 towels for the entire vehicle. I rotate each one to a clean side every 2-3 sections and it usually gets me through an entire car.
I'll link some suggested towels and applicators below. Good luck!
Applicators: www.amazon.com/Applicator-Microfiber-Sponge-Plastic-Barrier/dp/B07VXS51J2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=QBRFZ5LGR7AH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.csTtG1iw_cYHSdZgQWshV21aEI1QwUk_cWo4_TMUFgQvGSQdkNadlX5qqlsN0jo16a8uvM8ueNgoRYnuVVeEntJONeTfIJSzmGT2EmF4R4ngpMUEAjSHaKcVCYHwRg6C5Be7wLwEd_pdOZ0Qe7G1vI9-3pgwumGm5EP-UEarzljsW2wuKTsa5XF-zI7kC7zTV3gIPozXIgxtVcx0kn016zIr1MM8qEmLAEpxWEos-7p3bYk83GbCnucvHQj6nfwe6nH6g0avZnnZ7vK4fiWA8_VWU7MR-jVaQhli-8qenlI.LCaKcmY-36a5Psp_Hi-3PUM9GHxaPewWNN-h2ZDSbYU&dib_tag=se&keywords=autofiber+applicator&qid=1730197375&sprefix=autofiber+applicator%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
Towels: www.amazon.com/Everything-Premium-Paintwork-Coating-Leveling/dp/B0B7LY9VT9/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PKXAW16QCJT3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.y8u26Ti7rfL9dd0_BmIStewX1n9jzDupm6LYGzffu7BUcH4oTl_QL1jw_H3bEBwmHoHeNNOwwKt1WX4ltSf7znNS5L1tTgyKZEy4YlKAqG5lWO9nQOLx8fvKqADBcXJD.ZVXw3k9e99g8mnT0NQoo0wWZPGczzoR-6m2WTAjeY5g&dib_tag=se&keywords=autofiber+mr+everything&qid=1730197415&sprefix=autofiber+mr+ever%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-1
Great video mate.. xan u apply the coating onto your flare on top if your wheel archs..
Thank you! If the arches are any type of painted material yes you can. If it’s textured plastics a dedicated plastic coating would work better.
What is the prep spray made of? Pretty much same thing as the branded ones?
It's a combination of solvents specifically designed to remove oils from the surface. I'm not sure of the exact chemistry make up but it's definitely more than just Isopropyl Alcohol. It's the only paint prep I'll use with Gtechniq coatings!
Thank you! For a new car, the first day out of the car store what pre work do I need to do?
You will always want to do a thorough prep wash and polish/paint correction before getting to this point where I started in the video. A solid prep wash includes using a degreaser, bug and tar remover if needed, iron remover, hand wash, and a clay bar.
Thank you for the great video! Very well laid out and appreciate all the tips. Could you share which light you are using, and do you recall who makes that filter? My scan grip with diffuse filter does not seem to highlight all the highspots. I've tried several but your set-up looks like a home run. thanks for any guidance.
Thank you! So the light I am using is definitely brighter than the scan grips and works great for this scenario. I purchased it straight from a local distributer and it was unbranded at the time. Now you can get it from a few different sources. Here's one:lakecountrymfg.com/lc-power-tools-handheld-light/
@@high-defdetailing1485 Thank you so much. I actually ordered the LC last night. I am having trouble finding that sweet filter diffuser though.( I think that's my problem - too much direct light, not enough diffusion like a cloudy day would provide.)
Perfect explanation, thanks. I'll be using this on my new car when it arrives later this year
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
Good stuff. A lot of information I didn’t know.
Thanks for watching!
Thx for the detailing advice. I’m picking up a brand new car next week & plan to use Gtech serum light. Do I still need to do the prep work?
Congrats on the new car! Yes, you always need to the the prep work for the best result. You need to make sure everything is perfectly clean and preferably polished before moving onto the coating step. Even if the dealership “details” it you’ll want to remove whatever they put on there first.
Hi
Thx for getting back to me. Just to clarify, the dealer will have the car polished, you suggest for me to clay bar that off & add my own polish? The car has never been on the road btw so won’t have any dirt in the paint.
Correct. Typical dealer prep involves polishing with a "glaze" or all in one that will add wax and fillers. That needs to be gone before applying a coating. Brand new vehicles unfortunately are coming with tons of contaminants in the paint. Lots of rail dust and dirt embedded in the clear!
I know I'm a little late to this video. Great explanation. I'm a mobile detailer. I'm going to get the same coating from.my detail shop. I had a question what is that light called & filter? Would appreciate it brother!
Awesome! It's a pretty user friendly coating even if you're in someone else's garage and climate control isn't the greatest (certainly helps, but CSL is nice to work with!) I sourced the light locally but you can also find info on it here: lakecountrymfg.com/lc-power-tools-handheld-light/
@@high-defdetailing1485
Thank you Brother appreciate I'm the response. I'll check it out for sure. I need that light. Lol
@@johnboy5632 You're welcome. Best of luck!
Good explanation, what do you think about using gyeon wax after a few months of applying this coating?
I would not recommend any type of wax over the top of this coating. Gtechniq makes a product specifically designed to be used as a maintenance topper to any of their coatings. It’s called “Ceramic Sealant” and I would definitely use that instead!
How do you prep vinyl racing stripes for this ceramic coating???
Great question! If it's gloss vinyl you can lightly polish it (just be careful on the edges). If it's matte vinyl I'd just panel wipe it and go right to coating! It will slightly add some sheen to a matte vinyl stripe FYI
Customer wants a ceramic coating on his matte finish bike and wants a little gloss… you recommend using csl or do I still use a matte designed ceramic coating.
CSL will add a bit of gloss making it more of a Satin finish. I personally think it looks awesome. If you want to keep more of the matte look you can always go with something like Gtechniq C1 👍🏻
Nice valuable video!!
Do you mind telling us where you got that light ?
Thanks! I sourced mine locally from a distributer but I believe they are now sourced through a few different companies. This looks to be the same one! lakecountrymfg.com/lc-power-tools-handheld-light/
@@high-defdetailing1485 Thanks,I looked, it’s not available anywhere, even Lake Country doesn’t list it on their site
Can you use the same towels throughout the whole car? For instance can you use the same area of the first towel on the next panel without flipping it to another section of the towel? Will washing the towels remove the product so you can use for other tasks later, or do you have to dispose of them?
There’s plenty of different opinions on this one, but personally I toss my coating towels after an install. Washing them won’t remove the cured coating in the towel.
With CSL you can use the same side of the leveling towel for a couple sections. I use 3 towels for almost vehicles.
Nice video. Can apply it on windows and plastic kind of protection panels?
Thanks! You can apply it to plastics, but I would stay clear of glass. There are plenty of glass-specific coatings out there that will work much better than a paint coating!
Thank you that was a great demo
You're welcome! Hopefully it helped!
How often do you have to re apply the CSL to the applicator?
I prime the pad with 2-3 full droppers. Then I put about one dropper-full of coating per section/panel. A 30ml bottle should be enough for almost all vehicles.
@@high-defdetailing1485 thank you so much!
@@bretsherwood3917 You're welcome! Good luck!
Hi HDD just a question, second and insurance towel needs to be thrown away too?
You could probably downgrade those to an interior towel or a "dirty job" towel if you really want to save them. Since I"m operating a business and do several coatings a week I just toss them just to be safe. I buy them in bulk so it's not a big expense.
@@high-defdetailing1485 thanks HDD i think im slowly getting it now
Is this recommended for windshield or even all windows on a car ? I have STEK DynoShield now, will that be a problem ?
I would not apply this on windshield or glass. G1 is a specific glass coating by Gtechniq which works great on all glass. Crystal Serum Light over PPF like DYNOshield works great! I've done it several times. You can also try Halo over PPF as well.
@@high-defdetailing1485 Halo ? Is that another brand of ceramic coating ? If so, how does it compare to gtechniq applying, durability and lasting ? Nvm I'll read more into Halo products. Might be something perfect for my situation.
@@michaelchu802 It's a coating made by Gtechniq specifically designed for PPF. Halo is SUPER EASY to apply, and should have similar durability to Crystal Serum Light.
Does it matter if you get CSl or EXO on the trim?
It’s safe on trim but can alter the appearance slightly (in a good way!). You can use either coating intentionally on trim and it will darken it slightly and add some protection, but it won’t last as long as it does on the painted surfaces as it was designed to bond with clear coat.
If you accidentally get some on the trim when applying it to the paint or wiping it off, just wipe the trim quickly and you’re good to go!
Awesome, thanks for the quick response!
💥 Seems like a substantial amount of the product is soaked deep into that thick applicator.
Especially by squeezing it like you showed.
I bet there is another half a cars worth in there that’s left behind.
You want to lay it on thick, and prime the applicator the first time. After it’s primed you just need one eye dropper of product each section.
Where a can get this filtr for flashlight ? Can I do it myself, what is it made of?
I actually had someone make it for me. I believe it’s just a basic type of pvc plastic. It allows enough light through that’s diffused. I think you can buy them on oberkcarcare’s website now
Great video, appreciate you sharing your wisdom
Thanks for watching and for the kind words!
What was the light with the diffuser that you used? Great video, really liked it!
Thanks! It was a custom light diffuser I had made. Scangrip actually makes diffusers now that go with their lights that work well.
I have a Mercedes’ e Class estate. Is a 30ml bottle package of csl/exo ok or do i need the 50ml
30 ml is absolutely fine! I’ve done full size trucks with 30 ml bottles.
@@high-defdetailing1485 great news and thanks for the reply so quickly 👌👌
@@mercedes_and_more you’re welcome - thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for the great video. How long did it take you to prep the car?
You’re welcome! I’m typically around 90 minutes to do a full decon wash and clay. Then paint correction depends on how bad the paint is so anywhere from 3 hours to 10 hours of polishing. After that, about 30 minutes to wipe down the car twice and it’s ready to coat!
How many coats required in each panel?
Only one coat! You won’t see any difference with layering CSL. Exo is what you want to use when adding a second layer!
you said that you want to wait til you see it bead but on the serum light box it says to wipe off immediately. But letting it set makes more sense than to just wipe it off immediately
Correct. They probably say that on the box for ease of application and to limit the risk of getting high spots. But waiting a good 30-45 seconds is the sweet spot I feel
I researched thoroughly about this coating and found out that the "proper" application of serum was 1 layer and then 2 Layers of exo. But my boss insists that I use 2 layers of serum and then 2 Layers of exo. I found out that this aint recommended, what do you think wil happen if I follow the 2 serum 2 exo method?
CSL is a one layer coating , exo used to be a two layer coating, but the new version is one layer . I have used CSL around 100 times and honestly I have never seen the benefit of topping it with exo . Csl by itself has worked for me amazingly well. I’m getting over four years easily with it on daily driver cars ..
@@punkr6 i thought of this two as I gain experience about this coatings overtime, but you know "marketing" shits insists that the more the coats the better it is. So I do that shlt, even tho i knew there wasnt any benefits of it
CSL is a composite based coating, not quartz based, which means it has no benefits of being stacked in layers with itself. You'd be wasting time and product to do several layers of CSL. The new version of Exo (Version 5) only requires one layer and I have seen some great performance out of it!
@@punkr6 I used to agree and rarely topped with Exov4, but the new version has performed much better so far. If you maintain your vehicle well and wash regularly CSL by itself will be great, but the new Exo is a nice addition for sure!
@@high-defdetailing1485 I haven’t used v5 yet but that’s good to know.
Great video! How long does it really last CSL? Thank you for the anwser!
Almost 2years!
Can I just use that crystal light or does it.need paired with xo
It’s a great coating all by itself! Exo will deepen the gloss even more (adds sort of a glow to the paint) and add better hydrophobic properties. It’s totally up to you!
What is the curing time?
It's recommended to cure indoors for 12 hours before exposing the vehicle to the elements.
@@high-defdetailing1485 thanks
You're welcome. Good luck!@@lyric24k
You prefer the higher gsm first towel vs a lower knap one then followed up by a thicker one?
I’ve actually gone back and forth and recently found out it depends on humidity in the shop that day honestly. In higher humidity sometimes the thicker gsm towels can be too “grabby” and leave a bit of lint behind, so I use a 350 gsm shirt knap in that case. Higher gsm towels still absorb waaaaaay more coating though so you can get by with 3 for the whole car! For crystal serum light the higher gsm still work the best imo.
@@high-defdetailing1485 cool appreciate the reply! Just applied last night and I found the same. Outside it’s 102 with 20% RH. Indoors i have the mini split running so it’s 70 and I’m guessing way higher RH. Tried a Korean plush 500 gsm and I had to run it with 2 hands cause like you said it would grab on too much. Used an Autofiber quadrant towel and it was perfect. Shifted the coating to other panels still but less grabby. I’ll try messing with towels though 👊🏻
@@Detailpops That sounds exactly like my experience as well! I like the Autofiber Mr. Everything towels for coating leveling if I"m not using the plush ones. Keep on rocking!
@@high-defdetailing1485 likewise brother 👊🏻👊🏻
Fantastic video, looking to get this on my Alfa Guilia when the good weather comes! Quick question, in the video you showed applying CSL to half of the door. If you were doing this normally and not for a video, would you have done the door in one go? Previous ceramic coatings i have used in the past recommended applying the product in small sections, so ultimately took a long time to apply.
Thanks! In good climate controlled conditions I would absolutely do the white door in one go. Crystal Serum Light is pretty forgiving if your conditions are good. If you have high humidity though I’d only do a 1/2 door. Either way, once you start leveling the coating you need to move fast at the point! Good luck!
CSL can be apply outdoors and along it will last one layer thanks in advance yes sir 🫡
I never recommend applying any ceramic coating outdoors, but you technically could with this one. It will be a trickier install though and you'll have a high risk of leaving behind smearing and high spots.
So one layer will last 3 years ? Thanks in advance I really appreciate yes sir
@@raulmendez7805 correct. And with proper maintenance you can even get longer out of it
Can you apply this to factory vinyl stripes ?
I literally just did that today on a Shelby gt500. Good timing! 😂 So the answer is yes! It won’t do much though for looks but may darken them up a bit depending on what kind of vinyl it is. If it’s gloss vinyl it’ll look awesome!
Thank you very much ❤️
@@barryyercockiner6619 You're welcome!
Do you use the same applicator pad for the entire car?
Also, when wiping off the Coating do you need to use a fresh section of the microfiber towel for each section?
Yep! One applicator is totally fine for CSL. It won't harden in the applicator as you're applying it so you're good to go. I probably use the same section of the towel a couple times before moving on to the next section of it. Having multiple towels is important though so keep rotating them!
I want to apply crystal cerium light but I don’t have an enclosed garage I just have a roof to put the vehicle under and the weather here is in the 100’s…. My question is that if I wipe immediately after applying or let it sit for a couple of seconds?
I would not recommend applying this coating outdoors. You will be fighting the flash time right away and will lead to a poor installation. Try Exo for a more user friendly coating for outdoors (still not recommended but it might be safer)
@@high-defdetailing1485hey quick lil update I applied it outdoor and it turned out amazing no defects no issues 🙌
@@carlosvalle8694 Boom! That's awesome to hear :)
Nicely explained! The car looks great!
Thank you as always! Have you done many CSL jobs?
@@high-defdetailing1485 I have not. I would definitely like to give it a try sometime.
@@ddautodetailing give it a shot sometime for sure!
What do you charge for Cel+exo application?
Depends on vehicle size, how much paint correction is done prior, geographical demographic, etc. An average price for this coating with proper prep work is $1500
Thank you
You're welcome! Hope it helped
I have to use that prep spray even if I don’t perform polish before the coat? Did you apply the ceramic coating on plastic trim too?
Absolutely. Not using panel wipe would be the biggest mistake you can make and the coating won’t bond properly. Definitely use it!
@@high-defdetailing1485 ok and i have to use it in glass and plastic trim or only in paint ?
@@fauuzisaid just stick with the paint for this coating. You can put it on plastics if you really want to, but I wouldn’t put it on glass at all. It won’t bond well and will be easily removed.
Great info! Looks great!
Thank you! I'm sure you're going to love the look of Ultra on your new truck!
Gtechinq has an install video they say to wipe off immediately.
You can definitely do that, and they probably advise that in their videos as it's a pretty safe way to install without avoiding any potential issues. Letting it sit for a bit is a pro tip though that will give you an even better result if you have a bit more experience!
CSL safe to use on wheels?
If your wheels are clear coated it’s a great option. C5 is a better coating for wheels though as it’s designed to bond and hold up better on a wider variety of wheel surfaces.
@@high-defdetailing1485 Thanks for the info, I’ll check C5 out!!
@@eliteaviators Anytime! Happy to help!
Obrigado pelas informações! 🙏👏👏👏
De nada!
For anyone wondering, a 30ml bottle was just enough for my 2017 Audi Q7. Just 2-3 full pipettes leftover.
Sounds about right! I’ve stretched a 30ml bottle with full size pickups and escapades before too 😬
how many coats? 1 or 2?
If you use a big thick applicator like he showed it will suck up a lot of the product on its own.
Probably a half a cars worth right there.
Did you use the thin one that they provided or a different one?
coating life on car Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light
We see the process, but not any results, are there suppose to be results to see or is this simply a protectorent and no more shininess is expected, you know a good video would have covered these questions,
I wifed my car as instructed. It didn't do anything. 4/10.
haha what?
@@BRunkel07 8:58
Pretty useless really, a good polish with a traditional carnauba wax and polishing paste does a better job. But it's expensive and sounds high tech so it must be good, right?
It's like British Airways... charge too much money and you can fool a few people into believing it's a superior product.
If you enjoy waxing your car every few months with a paste wax then keep doing what works for you! One of the huge benefits of TRUE ceramic coatings is that you do not need to wax your vehicle for the life of the coating. For most people this saves them lots of time so they can enjoy doing more important things, or even just enjoy driving their vehicle more. There are a lot of products out there that are just a bunch of marketing hype and do not perform well. As long as you do your research and try things out for yourself you can’t go wrong with a true ceramic coating installed by a certified professional.
What you covered here is okay but why not cover everything that way we don’t have ask questions you should have covered. Like how much what amount will cover what size car. If I buy a bottle and ran short, it would be because you did not feel like sharing , basically I think you are very very lacking with a video that is suppose to inform
He covered that. Listen much?
What’s a good window coating you’d recommend?
Loved the video, getting into coatings
I use Gtechniq G1 for glass and love it. There are lots of good glass coatings out there but G1 seems to last just a bit longer
@@high-defdetailing1485 thanks for the advice! Would Gtechniq be beginner friendly? I want to learn with that brand on my own cars of course. Curious your opinion since you’ve used it
@@ArthurMSoto Gtechniq is not entirely user friendly, although if you have the right temperature and humidity conditions any of the coatings go on pretty easily. You just have to watch out for high spots on areas that you may "smear" the excess coating into. For a real simple coating I'd recommend Optimum Gloss Coat. That's what I started out with for several cars before moving into the Gtechniq line!
@@high-defdetailing1485 thanks for the responses I’ll look into that!