Hey Kirby. I just got finished my Version of your design. I never built a crossover before so I bought one from Dayton audio that crosses over at 3000 it's really nice built crossover but I don't really know if it is optimal. I also used a 8" passive radiator from Dayton audio again I don't how it performs compared to yours. My original idea came from the Polk monitor 7 and I reclaimed hard maple from a cabinet I found so didn't have a lot of wood so I saw what you did and liked it but I stayed with the passive radiator because I remember how much bass those Polk's have with it. I really want to thank you. I learned a lot from you and 123 toid and really want to send you a photo of what I did. Thanks Mike P
What about baffle step consideration and placement of the various drivers on the baffle? And the effects of rounding the corners? Is there software for these things? Thanks.
I think it’s great your doing another series like this really interesting. I’ve got really into building speakers after building my own for my dt alevel but I didn’t realise the detail and maths that goes into design of enclosure and using the correct speakers, Ive started to build up my own small company building private speakers due to the knowledge that watching your videos and online research have given me. Keep up the great videos very raw footage I like the style.
Yeah, I think a lot of people aren’t aware of how complex Speaker design can get. I think the great thing is that it also doesn’t have to be complex at all, just throw a driver into a box and see what it sounds like. Good luck with your business and thanks for watching!
Very nice video , but im struggling to get the correct size for the port ! Even in your video the box is 8 inch deep and the port you have calculate is 10 inch in depth . What you do in that case ? Thanks
Great content! I designed my first speaker without any software at all so it was really "loose". ^^ Sounded pretty good anyways so I think people shouldn't be too scared about hitting the numbers. This series will help soooo many people. Love it!
The bass reflex tuning graph in the German DIY loudspeaker magazine Hobby HiFi (issue 5/2003) recommends 3 to 2.7 litres (0.106 to 0.095 cuft) for each one of the TCP115-8 for an optimal flat bass response. With a tuning frequency of 41 to 44 Hz it results in a lower cut-off at 39 to 43 Hz (at -3 dB) - depending on the DC resistance of the used crossover (I assumed 0.2 ohms) and *if the manufacturer's specs are correct.* If the DC rersistance is higher they need a slightly bigger volume (about +5% at 0.4 ohms) but also go one or two hertz lower. As a rule of thumb for the port I wouldn't go below 1/5 of the total effective piston area of both drivers, so in this case 2" diameter, to prevent chuffing.
I had 15 inch Radio Shack woofers. I believe 3 inch mid range, and tweeters also 3 way crossovers. By measuring the deflection of the woofers the size of the enclosures came to 3ft by 2ft by 1.5 ft. (No port) Materials were 1/2 in particle board and used pink fiberglass house insulation. These were fantastic (not up to audiophile stands) but I'm a bit more demanding than the average person. I want to hear all the instruments and these did just that. As a side bonus when watching action adventure movies NO subwoofer needed for explosions. These provided all the realism needed.
I need a better knowledge of the basics before understanding this video. Any recommendations for those of us that are really just beginning? Just calling db "volume" didn't explain what's really being measured or how its related to the x axis. I was pretty lost throughout.
I want to build a desktop organizer that has two built in speakers on the outside, and drawers for pens and papers in the middle. When I'm designing the enclosure size in WinISD do I still pick 2 drivers or is it 1 driver since they'll essentially be two individual speakers. Do I treat it like a set of bookshelf speakers?
Any plans to make a video on actual enclosure construction design, specifically for a 3 way system to discuss use of internal bracing, enclosure for the mid, and taking all this into account for the total volume of the box? Thanks for all the great videos, inspiring me for sure!
Hi Kirby, thanks for the great walkthrough. You helped me get comfortable with WinISD and I've used it for a couple designs. Can you address the issue of cone excursion? I don't think it would be an issue in this design, but not paying attention to excursion is something that could be an expensive mistake for new DIYers.
Do you usually look also xmax value tab in winISD when you are building a new box with this program? Some people advice to take a look also to that. What do you think?
Thanks for your videos! This helps a lot. Im currently building mine but come to realize my Dayton audio sub (rss265 ho has an Ebp of 55.2 and qts of .45, I wanted this sub to be vented but it looks like I shouldn’t vent it. What are your thoughts? Am I still able to vent at such low ebp ? Have you done this ?
, I love to find objects to use for speaker cabnets. wine wooden boxes, cabnets, shipping containers of all kinds, anything . thanks to your videos, I've expanded my imagination on using different things for speaker cabnets and repurposing things for such. thanks Kirby
hey kirby, can you advise me please ? I want to build a 2-way speaker but i'm not sure putting "2 drivers" for placement is a good idea. I did it at first with just one. What happens when I put 2 instead of one ? Where is winISD putting the driver ?is it simulating like a woofer would be on a 2 way enclosure ? like 1/3 from the bottom ?
with the software i can see how you are balancing the drivers so one smoothly blends into the other but this will not tell you the quality of their sound when the drivers are mounted to the speaker enclosure. what do you do about that?
I created a profile for the sub I intend to use, winisd says the data integrity checks out ok, but when I create a project, the choose alignment drop down is empty, and then I get this error: "Out of bounds. Press OK to ignore and risk data corruption. Press OK to kill the program." Is this a overflowing buffer? I've tried this on my Windows 11 laptop, and my Windows 10 desktop with the same result. Any help or tips would be appreciated.
When you calculate everything with one woofer but you are building a dual woofer design like a KLF30, do you simply double the enclosure volume and port spec's?
hi, i came across some Japanese vid that build double bass reflex enclosure if im not mistaken. Do u know anything about this? can you cover about this in next video?
I looked it up and there's a formula for passive radiator. I don't if I'm 100% but it's for you double the size of passive radiator for the woofer . I used a 8" passive radiator woofer on mine that I built. I have anything to test it with but I really want to test it sometime and see what it comes out to. It's my very first build and I don't know much about crossovers so I bought one from Dayton audio that crosses at 3000 hz . Maybe in the future when I learn more I will test it and build another crossover but to my ears these sound really good and I have a subwoofer so I just put it up just enough with music to fill in the lows
I have an old pair of Infinity reference 4x6 plates (car speakers) that I've always wanted to turn into a pair of bookshelf speakers. It's basically just a 4" woofer and a tweeter mounted on a metal plate. Would this be feasible? I'm not expecting world class sound but it's just been something I've wanted to do for fun, mainly. I think they could be some solid speakers for desktop PC. And it could be fun as my first experience with building a custom enclosure.
Hey Kirby. I really enjoyed this video. I'd love to build a set of speakers someday soon. The amount of detail you've been going into with the design side of things is super helpful and something I can really get into. I also wanted to compliment you on your community interaction. I found your channel maybe a year ago and was very into it. You videos are always nicely shot and full of great info. I stopped watching at one point, however, when it seemed that you never interacted with your viewers. I myself had asked a question that went unanswered (nobody is entitled to your time, of course...keep reading.) The real kicker for me is that when I looked at the comments on most videos, there were people asking you stuff about either the video or kits they had purchased from you with no response from you in sight. Maybe you were contacting these people in another method, or you had some totally valid reason for not replying. The way it looked from my perspective was that you couldn't or wouldn't interact with people, so I lost interest in the channel. Feedback with the community, especially when you are selling things to them, is big to me. From what I've noticed on your more recent videos, all that has changed. I know this is a novel already and I appreciate it if you got this far. I just want you to know that this kind of stuff matters to some people and I think the change is a great thing. If I'm barking up the wrong tree, I apologize. Either way, your channel is great and I'm glad you're interacting with the people who enjoy your content! Take care -Long winded comments guy
Thanks so much for commenting! I do my best to reply to peoples comments, but I obviously can't get back to everyone. I email or private message people that have purchased something from me to make sure they receive the reply. Life sometimes gets in the way of this channel, but I've been able to devote more time to it lately, which I love! Thanks for watching!
I feel that. It's easy to get the wrong impression on the Internet. Your videos are great, so it's good to hear that you're able to spend more time on the fun things in life. Take care and have a nice weekend!
For passive radiators, shouldn't the total diameter of the radiator be 2x the diameter of the active woofer? Unless I misunderstood it looked to me like the passive radiator results predicted in your design software were based on radiator drivers that were too small in total diameter to meet the recommended 2x
Hi, can i use ready-made box from our old speakers? If yes, What are the do's and don'ts? Im a big fun. From the Philippines here will support you all the way. Thanks
Tons of information on enclosures and how easy it is to do and use software.....great job always looking forward to the next step....just all around good content
Just a question about port sizing... would it matter hugely if the port i can source for my speaker is about a centimeter shorter than shown in WinISD or is it just a slight change in the tuning frequency?
A little off topic, but very relevant. I'd like to hear your "take" on how a speaker relates to the room it is in. I have several pairs of speakers, obviously each pair sounds different. But what is really interesting, the sound of each pair seems to "fit" certain rooms in my home better than the others. From this, I conclude that there must be some art or science to selecting the best speakers to use in any given room. Maybe another video down the road?
Your videos are great. A lot of audio youtubers will say something and I'll go hang on that's not true! Was about to complain at my TV when you said the RMS value was the max and then you talked about peak. Made me laugh! Anyway I'm designing (theoretically with schematics, covid hit hard) a speaker for my university project so your videos are really helpful. Thanks!
I am gonna build a set of 2.1 cross over speaker set with my own DIY amplifiers, unfortunately I have no tools to build anything with wood so I'll have to buy enclosure's probably for now. Have you built your own amps before? I really think the process is cool, would be a sweet topic for a video.
So in short for me, I going to be building my own speakers, and would like a 8” woofer 2 6”....mid/woofers, and a waveguide tweeter, what sort of crossover do I need to build? Or can you buy them custom like this?
To make a super bass sound. Make an enclosure with a double chamber. The first chamber is a bit smaller than the second chamber. There is a port tube between the first and second chamber and another port on the second chamber opening to outside. Better kick drum sound than a single chamber, tighter and sharper, yet way deep. I even did it with a bluetooth speaker box and it had that sharp kick drum sound too. And bass guitar is really even.
Im am trying to make DIY speakers from refurbished drivers. The drivers got no information at all, printet on. How can i messure that? And would it be possible make a cross-over that can make 4 5" drivers play like one larger woofer driver. I would devide their frequency area into 4 in order to make each driver play better in their small area, instead og the whole freq. area??? Would it be possible??? and will it be difficult?
Hi Kirby! I'm wondering if you'd be so kind to share the following WinISD parameters for the TCP115-8: fLE, kLE, Hc, Hg, Xlim, Pe, R(t), C(t), SPLmax, Mcost, Magnet Depth. I've managed to gather the rest of them from the spec sheet but these I can't find anywere. Thanks in advance for your time!
I was curious if you could do a tutorial of doing a build on a vintage radio. Gutting it, adding a bluetooth amp board, with volume control and on/off control using the original control locations. Thanks!
Any idea why they Dayton Audio components are not included by default and where to get them? I found a file at loudspeakerdatabase but the options in alignment are not the same as yours.
Nice video man... Very helpful... But i have a problem... I start my project in Winisd but the Box Volume its always different from the Volume given by the manufacturer... What should i do?
I’ve got a weird question that I hope an experienced speaker builder or sound engineer could answer to me: Does the relationship between width and depth of the speaker matter, or the volume of the speaker is the only thing important? I’ve got a small room with furniture and the door getting in my way for having regular speakers (which are usually deeper than their width), would the sound deteriorate a lot if I make an enclosure that is wider than its depth? Thanks in advance.
Billy Bob , I have been looking for Linux software but haven't found it. Looked through repositories but found noting. Someone should have made it by now.
@Mark Thanks! I thought I was missing something somewhere. I have not had any luck with WINE, so if its not reliable then its not worth investing any time into troubleshooting it.
6 років тому
Give PlayOnLinux a try for a greater Wine experience
Hey I just wanted to make speakers but I really did not know it is just about this complicated I hav got very old speakers Sony E34 i wanted to make my own whit some wood but I guess it is way more complicated I really do not get it I wanted to use a ground zero GZIW200X-II 8Inch 4ohm subwoofer and some tweeter whit it but now I don’t know how and I do not know what kind of data I need for the calculators
It depends on the driver, the crossover, enclosure and the port (for vented speakers). Do it the easy way (no computer or math). Make a poly pipe tube for your vent at less than guessed length and another sliding cardboard tube that slides outside the polypipe tube. Slide the cardboard tube in-and-out to get the bass sound you like the most. It might be a bit of fucking around taking the driver out every time, but just use 2 strews (and when you are finished, put 8 in and it will even sound better). After you have determined the best length of your port tube you make 2 new tubes from all polypipe. With this trick it doesn't matter what size driver or enclosure (as long as it looks like a reasonable match) and as long as the diam of the port is like "average" for the speaker. The right length tube will compensate for any box size.
This comment is a year old now but I tried it anyways just to see if I could do it. Something went horribly wrong and I got 394 liters. Not sure how that happened but at least I know that's wrong.
3rd time is a charm, sorta. I'd love to see a passive radiator build, even if it's an epic fail; although, it makes perfect sense why you don't want to do it for this kit.
so if my woofer needs a specific volume when ported, adding that port would take out some volume right? because i'm sticking a physical tube into my open space. stupid question, i know.
Yes. Now im no audio guru, but the tube is relatively thin, so i think the volume loss inside the enclosure would be negligible, especially when the enclosure gets bigger and bigger
Hey Kirby. I really enjoyed this video! It explains alot!!! Just one question, do you have to do these steps if you use a full range speaker? I know, it's mostly a tweeter but it also is a woofer. In my design I would add a separate sub-woofer.
Hey Kirby! It’s always good to keep an eye on the excursion with winISD. I made a miniature subwoofer for my sisters car and noticed only after I made it that the driver I chose exceeds xmax below 30Hz because of the port tuning frequency / enclosure size.
Kirby, I've been walking through this series- good stuff! I was wondering if you ever use the enclosure feature in Vituix?? If not, care you able to output a design from vituix into winISD so that you account for your crossover design in the enclosure design?
What no sealed boxes? How about periotic membrains. Or compound mounted bandpass ported enclosure. As for tweeters, they are almost always sealed, but do take up airspace, but its negotiable for the most part. A ported box should have the port in the same plane at the driver, and its best to eliminate standing waves by not making a rectangle shaped box or 2 parallel walls, this will cause waves to cancel each other out becuse one wave will be 180 dgr out of phase to the other waves movements. Learning how to turn the back wave to time aline with and be in phase with the front wave will make the speaker play louder and sound more crisp. So experiment with differnt shapes that don't use 2 parallel walls or multiple parallel walls. Your speakers will sound better and produce more low end midbass. Subs are the same midrange, tweeter, and super tweeters are differnt placement is key as well as time alinement. You want all the sound to reach your ear at the same time. But each speaker plays at different speeds highs travel faster but not as far.. Keep the speakers properties in mind.
I've used WinISD since 2007 I think? I'm dyslexic and all this time I've thought it was WinSID so I'd always tell people I used WIN-SID... The whole time... That explains some of the weird looks over the years.
What one has to do to their body and or face to make up for not having self assurance to have to look like everyone else cause they are unnoticed as they walk down the street.
True. But I'll go further. I don't understand why bass reflex is allowed or desired, period. It's inaccurate sound. And to some degree you'll always be hearing the back waves resonate within the box and then escaping. For me, aperiodic, sealed, or some transmission lines are the only way to go. With those mentioned designed, mechanical impedance, transience, and/or sonic purity can be vastly improved and still maintained. I'd even rather go open baffle than bass reflex. It has a well established di-pole philosophy behind it. With bass reflex, it's a way for bass heads to geek out about getting an extra octave. The cost is muddy bass and resonances that weren't part of the original source material. Yes, sometimes muddy dirty bass is desired, but guess what, that sound can be recreated using a sealed subwoofer if the audio engineer intended you to hear such a sound. Creating a speaker which turns everything into loud muddy bass is a gimmick which destroys purity.
This vid is a .. of time. To learn how to use winISD, read the HELP section of the program. The manner to enter the parameters is like the first section. It's not some kind of mystery. And, ou obviously have no idea what you are doing.
Thank everyone for watching! You can download the Step 3 Worksheet here: bit.ly/step3enclousre
Hey Kirby. I just got finished my Version of your design. I never built a crossover before so I bought one from Dayton audio that crosses over at 3000 it's really nice built crossover but I don't really know if it is optimal. I also used a 8" passive radiator from Dayton audio again I don't how it performs compared to yours. My original idea came from the Polk monitor 7 and I reclaimed hard maple from a cabinet I found so didn't have a lot of wood so I saw what you did and liked it but I stayed with the passive radiator because I remember how much bass those Polk's have with it. I really want to thank you. I learned a lot from you and 123 toid and really want to send you a photo of what I did. Thanks Mike P
Great
Thanks for the shout-out Kirby. P.s. it's 1 2 3 toid. Like easy as 1,2,3.
Thank you for this series of videos Kirby! Great delivery of information. Just what I needed
Thank U for this information Currently trying to build enclosures for 15 " speakers , not realizing the importantce of dimentions
What about baffle step consideration and placement of the various drivers on the baffle? And the effects of rounding the corners? Is there software for these things? Thanks.
I think it’s great your doing another series like this really interesting. I’ve got really into building speakers after building my own for my dt alevel but I didn’t realise the detail and maths that goes into design of enclosure and using the correct speakers, Ive started to build up my own small company building private speakers due to the knowledge that watching your videos and online research have given me. Keep up the great videos very raw footage I like the style.
Yeah, I think a lot of people aren’t aware of how complex Speaker design can get. I think the great thing is that it also doesn’t have to be complex at all, just throw a driver into a box and see what it sounds like. Good luck with your business and thanks for watching!
Very nice video , but im struggling to get the correct size for the port ! Even in your video the box is 8 inch deep and the port you have calculate is 10 inch in depth . What you do in that case ? Thanks
Great content! I designed my first speaker without any software at all so it was really "loose". ^^ Sounded pretty good anyways so I think people shouldn't be too scared about hitting the numbers. This series will help soooo many people. Love it!
The bass reflex tuning graph in the German DIY loudspeaker magazine Hobby HiFi (issue 5/2003) recommends 3 to 2.7 litres (0.106 to 0.095 cuft) for each one of the TCP115-8 for an optimal flat bass response. With a tuning frequency of 41 to 44 Hz it results in a lower cut-off at 39 to 43 Hz (at -3 dB) - depending on the DC resistance of the used crossover (I assumed 0.2 ohms) and *if the manufacturer's specs are correct.* If the DC rersistance is higher they need a slightly bigger volume (about +5% at 0.4 ohms) but also go one or two hertz lower.
As a rule of thumb for the port I wouldn't go below 1/5 of the total effective piston area of both drivers, so in this case 2" diameter, to prevent chuffing.
I had 15 inch Radio Shack woofers.
I believe 3 inch mid range, and tweeters also 3 way crossovers.
By measuring the deflection of the woofers the size of the enclosures came to 3ft by 2ft by 1.5 ft. (No port)
Materials were 1/2 in particle board and used pink fiberglass house insulation.
These were fantastic (not up to audiophile stands) but I'm a bit more demanding than the average person.
I want to hear all the instruments and these did just that. As a side bonus when watching action adventure movies NO subwoofer needed for explosions. These provided all the realism needed.
I need a better knowledge of the basics before understanding this video. Any recommendations for those of us that are really just beginning? Just calling db "volume" didn't explain what's really being measured or how its related to the x axis. I was pretty lost throughout.
I want to build a desktop organizer that has two built in speakers on the outside, and drawers for pens and papers in the middle. When I'm designing the enclosure size in WinISD do I still pick 2 drivers or is it 1 driver since they'll essentially be two individual speakers. Do I treat it like a set of bookshelf speakers?
Any plans to make a video on actual enclosure construction design, specifically for a 3 way system to discuss use of internal bracing, enclosure for the mid, and taking all this into account for the total volume of the box? Thanks for all the great videos, inspiring me for sure!
Would you count the area inside the vent tube, or would you exclude it from the total space needed inside the speaker?
the baffle shape is essential, the area around the driver???
Hi Kirby, thanks for the great walkthrough. You helped me get comfortable with WinISD and I've used it for a couple designs. Can you address the issue of cone excursion? I don't think it would be an issue in this design, but not paying attention to excursion is something that could be an expensive mistake for new DIYers.
Do you usually look also xmax value tab in winISD when you are building a new box with this program? Some people advice to take a look also to that. What do you think?
Thanks for your videos! This helps a lot. Im currently building mine but come to realize my Dayton audio sub (rss265 ho has an Ebp of 55.2 and qts of .45, I wanted this sub to be vented but it looks like I shouldn’t vent it. What are your thoughts? Am I still able to vent at such low ebp ? Have you done this ?
can you put an tweeter on the side of a building?
, I love to find objects to use for speaker cabnets.
wine wooden boxes, cabnets, shipping containers of all kinds, anything . thanks to your videos, I've expanded my imagination on using different things for speaker cabnets and repurposing things for such. thanks Kirby
hey kirby, can you advise me please ? I want to build a 2-way speaker but i'm not sure putting "2 drivers" for placement is a good idea. I did it at first with just one. What happens when I put 2 instead of one ? Where is winISD putting the driver ?is it simulating like a woofer would be on a 2 way enclosure ? like 1/3 from the bottom ?
Give me 8 intches speaker and tweetr cabinet size
with the software i can see how you are balancing the drivers so one smoothly blends into the other but this will not tell you the quality of their sound when the drivers are mounted to the speaker enclosure. what do you do about that?
I created a profile for the sub I intend to use, winisd says the data integrity checks out ok, but when I create a project, the choose alignment drop down is empty, and then I get this error: "Out of bounds. Press OK to ignore and risk data corruption. Press OK to kill the program." Is this a overflowing buffer? I've tried this on my Windows 11 laptop, and my Windows 10 desktop with the same result. Any help or tips would be appreciated.
When you calculate everything with one woofer but you are building a dual woofer design like a KLF30, do you simply double the enclosure volume and port spec's?
Hy does the volume of the port ia allready in the box volume ? Or i must add the volume of the port to the volume of the box?
hi, i came across some Japanese vid that build double bass reflex enclosure if im not mistaken. Do u know anything about this? can you cover about this in next video?
isn't chebyshev worse on higher volumes or how's that compared to butterworth?
I looked it up and there's a formula for passive radiator. I don't if I'm 100% but it's for you double the size of passive radiator for the woofer . I used a 8" passive radiator woofer on mine that I built. I have anything to test it with but I really want to test it sometime and see what it comes out to. It's my very first build and I don't know much about crossovers so I bought one from Dayton audio that crosses at 3000 hz . Maybe in the future when I learn more I will test it and build another crossover but to my ears these sound really good and I have a subwoofer so I just put it up just enough with music to fill in the lows
I have an old pair of Infinity reference 4x6 plates (car speakers) that I've always wanted to turn into a pair of bookshelf speakers. It's basically just a 4" woofer and a tweeter mounted on a metal plate. Would this be feasible? I'm not expecting world class sound but it's just been something I've wanted to do for fun, mainly. I think they could be some solid speakers for desktop PC. And it could be fun as my first experience with building a custom enclosure.
Hey Kirby. I really enjoyed this video. I'd love to build a set of speakers someday soon. The amount of detail you've been going into with the design side of things is super helpful and something I can really get into.
I also wanted to compliment you on your community interaction. I found your channel maybe a year ago and was very into it. You videos are always nicely shot and full of great info. I stopped watching at one point, however, when it seemed that you never interacted with your viewers. I myself had asked a question that went unanswered (nobody is entitled to your time, of course...keep reading.)
The real kicker for me is that when I looked at the comments on most videos, there were people asking you stuff about either the video or kits they had purchased from you with no response from you in sight. Maybe you were contacting these people in another method, or you had some totally valid reason for not replying. The way it looked from my perspective was that you couldn't or wouldn't interact with people, so I lost interest in the channel. Feedback with the community, especially when you are selling things to them, is big to me.
From what I've noticed on your more recent videos, all that has changed. I know this is a novel already and I appreciate it if you got this far. I just want you to know that this kind of stuff matters to some people and I think the change is a great thing. If I'm barking up the wrong tree, I apologize. Either way, your channel is great and I'm glad you're interacting with the people who enjoy your content!
Take care
-Long winded comments guy
Thanks so much for commenting! I do my best to reply to peoples comments, but I obviously can't get back to everyone. I email or private message people that have purchased something from me to make sure they receive the reply. Life sometimes gets in the way of this channel, but I've been able to devote more time to it lately, which I love! Thanks for watching!
I feel that. It's easy to get the wrong impression on the Internet. Your videos are great, so it's good to hear that you're able to spend more time on the fun things in life. Take care and have a nice weekend!
Thanks for the video!!! what amplifier do you recommend for that drivers?
For passive radiators, shouldn't the total diameter of the radiator be 2x the diameter of the active woofer? Unless I misunderstood it looked to me like the passive radiator results predicted in your design software were based on radiator drivers that were too small in total diameter to meet the recommended 2x
Amazing, concise and helpful content thank you! One gripe.... MICROSOFT EDGE?
Hi, can i use ready-made box from our old speakers? If yes, What are the do's and don'ts? Im a big fun. From the Philippines here will support you all the way. Thanks
, any suggestions on where to get a mini desktop tower speaker cabnets kit because KMA Kits has been out of stock for quite a while now ?
Kirby, if your enclosure is 8 inches deep how do you stick a 10 inch port tube inside??
Tons of information on enclosures and how easy it is to do and use software.....great job always looking forward to the next step....just all around good content
please somebody help me. so which port should I buy? 2" x 10.46" for this enclosure?
Just a question about port sizing... would it matter hugely if the port i can source for my speaker is about a centimeter shorter than shown in WinISD or is it just a slight change in the tuning frequency?
A little off topic, but very relevant. I'd like to hear your "take" on how a speaker relates to the room it is in.
I have several pairs of speakers, obviously each pair sounds different. But what is really interesting, the sound of each pair seems to "fit" certain rooms in my home better than the others. From this, I conclude that there must be some art or science to selecting the best speakers to use in any given room. Maybe another video down the road?
Your videos are great. A lot of audio youtubers will say something and I'll go hang on that's not true! Was about to complain at my TV when you said the RMS value was the max and then you talked about peak. Made me laugh! Anyway I'm designing (theoretically with schematics, covid hit hard) a speaker for my university project so your videos are really helpful. Thanks!
How are you going to fit a 10.46" pipe in a box that's 8" deep?
I am gonna build a set of 2.1 cross over speaker set with my own DIY amplifiers, unfortunately I have no tools to build anything with wood so I'll have to buy enclosure's probably for now. Have you built your own amps before? I really think the process is cool, would be a sweet topic for a video.
So in short for me, I going to be building my own speakers, and would like a 8” woofer 2 6”....mid/woofers, and a waveguide tweeter, what sort of crossover do I need to build? Or can you buy them custom like this?
To make a super bass sound. Make an enclosure with a double chamber. The first chamber is a bit smaller than the second chamber. There is a port tube between the first and second chamber and another port on the second chamber opening to outside. Better kick drum sound than a single chamber, tighter and sharper, yet way deep. I even did it with a bluetooth speaker box and it had that sharp kick drum sound too. And bass guitar is really even.
interested in how the bt speaker box is designed.
Shouldn't we also be checking maximum cone excursion?
Im am trying to make DIY speakers from refurbished drivers. The drivers got no information at all, printet on. How can i messure that?
And would it be possible make a cross-over that can make 4 5" drivers play like one larger woofer driver.
I would devide their frequency area into 4 in order to make each driver play better in their small area, instead og the whole freq. area???
Would it be possible??? and will it be difficult?
Hi Kirby! I'm wondering if you'd be so kind to share the following WinISD parameters for the TCP115-8: fLE, kLE, Hc, Hg, Xlim, Pe, R(t), C(t), SPLmax, Mcost, Magnet Depth. I've managed to gather the rest of them from the spec sheet but these I can't find anywere.
Thanks in advance for your time!
I was curious if you could do a tutorial of doing a build on a vintage radio. Gutting it, adding a bluetooth amp board, with volume control and on/off control using the original control locations. Thanks!
Any idea why they Dayton Audio components are not included by default and where to get them? I found a file at loudspeakerdatabase but the options in alignment are not the same as yours.
Nice video man... Very helpful... But i have a problem... I start my project in Winisd but the Box Volume its always different from the Volume given by the manufacturer... What should i do?
I’ve got a weird question that I hope an experienced speaker builder or sound engineer could answer to me: Does the relationship between width and depth of the speaker matter, or the volume of the speaker is the only thing important? I’ve got a small room with furniture and the door getting in my way for having regular speakers (which are usually deeper than their width), would the sound deteriorate a lot if I make an enclosure that is wider than its depth? Thanks in advance.
I've made a few speakers just doing what felt right, idk, they definitely have a unique sound
Winisd shows accurate graphs or no ?
Great video, you should definitely do more tutorials for beginners on WinISD and understanding the steps of building a professional sub box
Which software for the Linux folks would be as good as this one (and what about crossover software for Linux, as well). Thanks!
Billy Bob , I have been looking for Linux software but haven't found it. Looked through repositories but found noting. Someone should have made it by now.
Have you tried running it through WineHQ? Or try gspeakers.sourceforge.net/
@Mark Thanks! I thought I was missing something somewhere. I have not had any luck with WINE, so if its not reliable then its not worth investing any time into troubleshooting it.
Give PlayOnLinux a try for a greater Wine experience
WINe is just doing windows in a virtual workspace, its still windows, not linux.
Hey I just wanted to make speakers but I really did not know it is just about this complicated I hav got very old speakers Sony E34 i wanted to make my own whit some wood but I guess it is way more complicated I really do not get it I wanted to use a ground zero GZIW200X-II 8Inch 4ohm subwoofer and some tweeter whit it but now I don’t know how and I do not know what kind of data I need for the calculators
Great job ! Very interesting ! I'm a member now.
the link to winisd dosent work comes up with a 505 error any other free software recommendation or a working link to download winIsd?
It depends on the driver, the crossover, enclosure and the port (for vented speakers). Do it the easy way (no computer or math). Make a poly pipe tube for your vent at less than guessed length and another sliding cardboard tube that slides outside the polypipe tube. Slide the cardboard tube in-and-out to get the bass sound you like the most. It might be a bit of fucking around taking the driver out every time, but just use 2 strews (and when you are finished, put 8 in and it will even sound better). After you have determined the best length of your port tube you make 2 new tubes from all polypipe. With this trick it doesn't matter what size driver or enclosure (as long as it looks like a reasonable match) and as long as the diam of the port is like "average" for the speaker. The right length tube will compensate for any box size.
So good. Just so so good.
Thank you so much bro
thank
Came here to learn to build speakers, then heard you're into jiu jitsu. Great stuff, I teach here in sunny Cape Town.
Thanks 😊
Hello. Someone can tell me how many liters to be the box for Monacor SP-202E speaker? (Bass reflex)
This comment is a year old now but I tried it anyways just to see if I could do it. Something went horribly wrong and I got 394 liters. Not sure how that happened but at least I know that's wrong.
3rd time is a charm, sorta. I'd love to see a passive radiator build, even if it's an epic fail; although, it makes perfect sense why you don't want to do it for this kit.
so if my woofer needs a specific volume when ported, adding that port would take out some volume right? because i'm sticking a physical tube into my open space. stupid question, i know.
Yes. Now im no audio guru, but the tube is relatively thin, so i think the volume loss inside the enclosure would be negligible, especially when the enclosure gets bigger and bigger
Does this also work for a diy bleutooth speaker enclosure?
of course but you should consider the battery volume :)
Does the direction of the port matter? Front or Back
Does not matter.
this was helpful... thanks
Please put a video how to build a speaker with a 5inch full range unit with a single wooden plank
Hey Kirby. I really enjoyed this video! It explains alot!!! Just one question, do you have to do these steps if you use a full range speaker? I know, it's mostly a tweeter but it also is a woofer. In my design I would add a separate sub-woofer.
good video. great beginner DIY resource.
Hey Kirby! It’s always good to keep an eye on the excursion with winISD.
I made a miniature subwoofer for my sisters car and noticed only after I made it that the driver I chose exceeds xmax below 30Hz because of the port tuning frequency / enclosure size.
What happens if two vents are installed 🤔
Kirby, I've been walking through this series- good stuff! I was wondering if you ever use the enclosure feature in Vituix?? If not, care you able to output a design from vituix into winISD so that you account for your crossover design in the enclosure design?
Nice shop
Looking forward to the finished product. Im also in the middle of a build using the TCP115👍
I like you video
What no sealed boxes? How about periotic membrains. Or compound mounted bandpass ported enclosure.
As for tweeters, they are almost always sealed, but do take up airspace, but its negotiable for the most part.
A ported box should have the port in the same plane at the driver, and its best to eliminate standing waves by not making a rectangle shaped box or 2 parallel walls, this will cause waves to cancel each other out becuse one wave will be 180 dgr out of phase to the other waves movements. Learning how to turn the back wave to time aline with and be in phase with the front wave will make the speaker play louder and sound more crisp. So experiment with differnt shapes that don't use 2 parallel walls or multiple parallel walls. Your speakers will sound better and produce more low end midbass. Subs are the same midrange, tweeter, and super tweeters are differnt placement is key as well as time alinement. You want all the sound to reach your ear at the same time.
But each speaker plays at different speeds highs travel faster but not as far..
Keep the speakers properties in mind.
Hey dude cam u help me to design a 18 inch sub ?
Truly liked this. :D
THIS VIDEO WAS AWESOME!!!!!
l use MAYA.
Project is ramping up now
I've used WinISD since 2007 I think? I'm dyslexic and all this time I've thought it was WinSID so I'd always tell people I used WIN-SID... The whole time... That explains some of the weird looks over the years.
Use a passive radiator instead of a port.
With a smaller cu in.
You should name them "Impedance Doesn't Matter"!
You dont need to work at NASA and be a rocket engeer
What one has to do to their body and or face to make up for not having self assurance to have to look like everyone else cause they are unnoticed as they walk down the street.
so you are just collecting email addresses? Free plans link does nothing after entering email.
2:25 kirby saves the video from demonetisation
Send me dayton speakers
Port chuffing is a high crime. I can't understand why designers allow speakers that chuff to be signed off for sale.
True. But I'll go further.
I don't understand why bass reflex is allowed or desired, period. It's inaccurate sound. And to some degree you'll always be hearing the back waves resonate within the box and then escaping.
For me, aperiodic, sealed, or some transmission lines are the only way to go. With those mentioned designed, mechanical impedance, transience, and/or sonic purity can be vastly improved and still maintained.
I'd even rather go open baffle than bass reflex. It has a well established di-pole philosophy behind it. With bass reflex, it's a way for bass heads to geek out about getting an extra octave. The cost is muddy bass and resonances that weren't part of the original source material.
Yes, sometimes muddy dirty bass is desired, but guess what, that sound can be recreated using a sealed subwoofer if the audio engineer intended you to hear such a sound. Creating a speaker which turns everything into loud muddy bass is a gimmick which destroys purity.
This vid is a .. of time. To learn how to use winISD, read the HELP section of the program. The manner to enter the parameters is like the first section. It's not some kind of mystery. And, ou obviously have no idea what you are doing.
Where’s your old hat
first
wtf Acer? Send this guy a computer.
Putting on an apple icon that lights up apparently costs at least an extra $500. Who knew.
I'd rather spend my money elsewhere.