Didn't know what I was getting myself into, until I see your video. Very helpful. Thank you! A couple added notes for the folks who come along behind me. First, if you follow this method, the screws behind the actuator are T-25 torx head screws. Second, if you can get your hands on the whole bracket, (junkyard, maybe?), you may find it even easier to make this repair. The metal extensions which Christopher avoided messing with are simply held in with a hinged plastic grip. Me, I put some duct tape around the extension before opening the hinge, just as a marker. Once I popped open those hinges, the whole unit just came right out of the door. No more screws, nuts or bolts than already shown here. Actually, instead of removing the four nuts across the top of the bracket, you only need to remove nuts #1 and #4. The 2 middle nuts only attach to the bracket itself. I slid the replacement unit into place, and plugged in the actuator. The extensions seemed to naturally fall into the correct locations in the hinged plastic grips. I snapped those in, and I was done.
I just bought a used Escape and they had unplugged the broken actuator. I checked all the doors for locking properly but the hatch. 😳 I paid $45 on ebay for a new actuator . You saved me a lot of money I could not afford. Thank you so much for this video!
Why is it that all the “actuators” for 2002 Escape look completely different than the OEM one (as shown in the video)? It looks more like the latch assembly. Am I missing something? Which actuator sis you buy from ebay?
Hey, thanks so much, man this really saved me. Beats searching for the whole new assembly. Hopefully I find that part in good condition and it works. Thanks!
Thank you for the video! This was very helpful and fixed the problem for us I tested the new actuator by wiring it up first and testing it, just to make sure the one I bought worked first. I am sure you saved me several hours and a good deal of cash in fixing this for our daughter's car. Thanks!
Thanks for video. The Dealer was talking about $400 for this job compared to the $60 part. After removing the part I decided to purchase a #8 nut and bolt package from HDepot . I noticed that the holes in the actuator went all the way through its box. I placed the screw/bolt in from the bottom or door panel side with the nut on top. Now I don't have to try to remove the screw from the tight confinement area on top of the brace. It is holding tight and will make access easier if this happens again.
Worked like a charm! 2003 Escape XLT. The after market actuator is definitely louder--for now I'm okay with that, its the firm solid sound of the hatch locking and unlocking--yeah! While in there I finally found the source of an incessant rattling that was driving me crazy--one of the locking bars was loosely attached, I put a little putty in the crack, hopefully that will help. Also, one of the bolts where the whole locking assembly attaches loosened at the base, rather than at the top. It was a little bit of a pain but I was able to unscrew the whole thing, then screw it back in at the base before reattaching the nut. Also had to strip the wires to connect the aftermarket actuator. Thanks for this video, now I can take my family surfing and not worry about having to climb over the back seat to get our wetsuits!
OMG, this is so funny. You have the same exact first and last name as me, and I am about to do the same repair (except on my fiance's 02 escape)! This is blowing my mind... Wow, lol!
I have a 2006 and the process is a little easier since Ford gives you the clearance you didn't have on this one. I used an Allen wrench. Thanks for the video.
It's a torx bit...and the two terminals that I seen inside the actuator case are bound to get dirty...cracked the case of it to see how it worked...best bet is to figure out how to replace the lock mechasim with a actuator with a long enough rod so you can bend it to suit your needs...and do so by measuring the throw of the rod itself...a simple door lock actuator should do the trick as long as the throw it the same...but will require mounting this actuator on the inside of the hatch since you have no room between the panel and cover
To NDJM: It sounds like you're in the same boat I was in. I didn't know for sure what the problem was. In fact, for years I figured it was a short in the wiring so I never did anything about it. Then one day, I simply said, "I gotta do something about this." I started with the lock actuator because it was the simplest, the cheapest, and it seemed like it might be the problem. If you are arming/disarming and the actuator is not moving...that is probably it. That's exactly what mine was doing (or rather, not doing.) Truth be told, I'm no car guru, so there is no way to be sure until you start replacing parts...also, on mine the latches and levers all seemed to be in good working order so I didn't think it was any of those.
Why is it that all the “actuators” for 2002 Escape look completely different than the OEM one (as shown in the video)? It looks more like the latch assembly. Am I missing something?
The back of my 2003 Escape will not open, at all. How would I get the panel off if I cannot open and get to the screws at the bottom? Thank you in Advance.
Hmmmmm....that's a good question. I'm not sure how to remedy that one. Yes, if it is stuck in the locked position, then I don't know how to somehow trip the lock so it will open. I'm sorry that I cannot help more with that particular question.
Mine was always a function of the temp. Hot, direct sunlight would cause it to freeze up. After an evening in the garage i could get it to actually unlock. Maybe I was lucky...I know that doesn't help if yours is permanently locked, but I never had to tackle that problem. Maybe someone else can answer that for you?
Open it from the inside. Jump in in the back of your escape and pull out the large plastic cover. Do not pull it from the bottom, there are screws that can only be accessed when the liftgate is open. Pull the cover from the top, where it meets the glass, but not all the way out, just enough to slide your arms in. It's only held on by clips, then reach you hand in and pull up on one of the rods, don't worry there are only a few, and don't use Herculean strength. Push the liftgate after each pull and it should open. Once open remove the screws and get to work!
Why not shut the rear door and show how to open it before you fixed the actuator, as 99% of people watching this are in that situation? I found another video that does that. Not much help to show how to remove the panel before you can open the door. I needed how to unsnap the panel and manually open the latch in order to remove the panel.
Didn't know what I was getting myself into, until I see your video. Very helpful. Thank you! A couple added notes for the folks who come along behind me. First, if you follow this method, the screws behind the actuator are T-25 torx head screws. Second, if you can get your hands on the whole bracket, (junkyard, maybe?), you may find it even easier to make this repair. The metal extensions which Christopher avoided messing with are simply held in with a hinged plastic grip. Me, I put some duct tape around the extension before opening the hinge, just as a marker. Once I popped open those hinges, the whole unit just came right out of the door. No more screws, nuts or bolts than already shown here. Actually, instead of removing the four nuts across the top of the bracket, you only need to remove nuts #1 and #4. The 2 middle nuts only attach to the bracket itself. I slid the replacement unit into place, and plugged in the actuator. The extensions seemed to naturally fall into the correct locations in the hinged plastic grips. I snapped those in, and I was done.
I hate dealing with screws, so that's awesome information. Thanx
I just bought a used Escape and they had unplugged the broken actuator. I checked all the doors for locking properly but the hatch. 😳 I paid $45 on ebay for a new actuator . You saved me a lot of money I could not afford. Thank you so much for this video!
Yea! so glad to hear that this old video is still helping people out!
I still have this 20 year old car...it's about to become my son's
Why is it that all the “actuators” for 2002 Escape look completely different than the OEM one (as shown in the video)? It looks more like the latch assembly. Am I missing something? Which actuator sis you buy from ebay?
Thanks so much for making this video! I was able to repair my actuator myself and saved a lot of money
Hey, thanks so much, man this really saved me. Beats searching for the whole new assembly. Hopefully I find that part in good condition and it works. Thanks!
I've been having the exact same problem for months. Going to try to fix it today. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the video! This was very helpful and fixed the problem for us I tested the new actuator by wiring it up first and testing it, just to make sure the one I bought worked first. I am sure you saved me several hours and a good deal of cash in fixing this for our daughter's car. Thanks!
Thanks for video. The Dealer was talking about $400 for this job compared to the $60 part. After removing the part I decided to purchase a #8 nut and bolt package from HDepot . I noticed that the holes in the actuator went all the way through its box. I placed the screw/bolt in from the bottom or door panel side with the nut on top. Now I don't have to try to remove the screw from the tight confinement area on top of the brace. It is holding tight and will make access easier if this happens again.
Worked like a charm! 2003 Escape XLT. The after market actuator is definitely louder--for now I'm okay with that, its the firm solid sound of the hatch locking and unlocking--yeah! While in there I finally found the source of an incessant rattling that was driving me crazy--one of the locking bars was loosely attached, I put a little putty in the crack, hopefully that will help. Also, one of the bolts where the whole locking assembly attaches loosened at the base, rather than at the top. It was a little bit of a pain but I was able to unscrew the whole thing, then screw it back in at the base before reattaching the nut. Also had to strip the wires to connect the aftermarket actuator. Thanks for this video, now I can take my family surfing and not worry about having to climb over the back seat to get our wetsuits!
OMG, this is so funny. You have the same exact first and last name as me, and I am about to do the same repair (except on my fiance's 02 escape)! This is blowing my mind... Wow, lol!
Crazy world! Hope the video helps. I still have this car!
I have a 2006 and the process is a little easier since Ford gives you the clearance you didn't have on this one. I used an Allen wrench. Thanks for the video.
Excellent instructions- those screws on a 2003 are a T25 torx bit or 1/8" hex key bit will work in a pinch
Great video and now I can repair mine. Thanks bud
Nice detail. Thank you.
Awesome! glad it helped! happy locking and unlocking!
I have a question mine won't lock it all do I need one or a hatch latch?
Thanks you so much for your Video,
It was very helpful.
It's a torx bit...and the two terminals that I seen inside the actuator case are bound to get dirty...cracked the case of it to see how it worked...best bet is to figure out how to replace the lock mechasim with a actuator with a long enough rod so you can bend it to suit your needs...and do so by measuring the throw of the rod itself...a simple door lock actuator should do the trick as long as the throw it the same...but will require mounting this actuator on the inside of the hatch since you have no room between the panel and cover
Hopefully that's what's wrong with my suv and not something else. Thanks for the video
To NDJM:
It sounds like you're in the same boat I was in. I didn't know for sure what the problem was. In fact, for years I figured it was a short in the wiring so I never did anything about it. Then one day, I simply said, "I gotta do something about this."
I started with the lock actuator because it was the simplest, the cheapest, and it seemed like it might be the problem. If you are arming/disarming and the actuator is not moving...that is probably it. That's exactly what mine was doing (or rather, not doing.)
Truth be told, I'm no car guru, so there is no way to be sure until you start replacing parts...also, on mine the latches and levers all seemed to be in good working order so I didn't think it was any of those.
Why is it that all the “actuators” for 2002 Escape look completely different than the OEM one (as shown in the video)? It looks more like the latch assembly. Am I missing something?
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Made that job much easier for me.
Thanks for the info. appreciated and will save a lot of time.
What size socket for the 4 bolts
Tks Chris, sure did help.. 👍😇➕❤🙏
My tail gate door doesn't lock I can hear the mechanism bussing but it does not lock by electric lock.
Very helpful but is there any problem disconnecting the actuator from the lock or does it just snap in?
it has two screws that connect it to the latch mechanism (from what I remember...)
nice vid thanks
what part - acuator - did you use?
that is not a Hex screw - that is a Torx T-20
What if you can't get the back door open?
The back of my 2003 Escape will not open, at all. How would I get the panel off if I cannot open and get to the screws at the bottom? Thank you in Advance.
Hmmmmm....that's a good question. I'm not sure how to remedy that one. Yes, if it is stuck in the locked position, then I don't know how to somehow trip the lock so it will open. I'm sorry that I cannot help more with that particular question.
But! how do you get it open in the first place if it's locked/closed? One vital peice of info please?
Mine was always a function of the temp. Hot, direct sunlight would cause it to freeze up. After an evening in the garage i could get it to actually unlock. Maybe I was lucky...I know that doesn't help if yours is permanently locked, but I never had to tackle that problem. Maybe someone else can answer that for you?
Open it from the inside. Jump in in the back of your escape and pull out the large plastic cover. Do not pull it from the bottom, there are screws that can only be accessed when the liftgate is open. Pull the cover from the top, where it meets the glass, but not all the way out, just enough to slide your arms in. It's only held on by clips, then reach you hand in and pull up on one of the rods, don't worry there are only a few, and don't use Herculean strength. Push the liftgate after each pull and it should open. Once open remove the screws and get to work!
WHERE IS THE FUSE FOR THIS ACTUATOR?
does anyone know the part number for the actuator?
+flatlandfreak66
I think it is part #4500 5424
Not confirmed...
WHAT IF DONT OPEN? I MEAN IF IS IT LOCK?
YOU CAN remove the panel from the inside top by the rear wiper . you hand fits and you can move the lever to unlock it
the screws you show are not philips, not flat head and not hex, look again, they are in fact torx :D
Thx!
Why not shut the rear door and show how to open it before you fixed the actuator, as 99% of people watching this are in that situation? I found another video that does that. Not much help to show how to remove the panel before you can open the door. I needed how to unsnap the panel and manually open the latch in order to remove the panel.
Thank you... I assumed the actuator was the problem with my escape, I appreciate the helpful video. I just ordered the part off of ebay!
But! how do you get it open in the first place if it's locked/closed? One vital peice of info please?