Volvo T5 Engine Timing - The Ultimate Guide to the Volvo P1-T5 Engine - Step by step
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Here we take a very detailed look at everything you need to know about timing on your Volvo T5 engine, using our P1 (S40/C30/C70/V50) engine as an example. Walk through the entire process with us, and learn to identify and set timing marks for a perfectly timed Volvo T5 engine.
Joel … It’s Brent.. this is exactly what I needed to see.. only channel that actually gives details you need
nice, glad it helped, it's a lot of information, but for timing, you want to know it all!!!
Congrats again my friend...this channel is THE ONLY one I know that says in details this particular 5 cilinder engine...thanks a lot 🎉
Thanks, we have a lot more coming,
@@moosedroppings I'll definitely watch It...tks a lot
Extraordinary detail !
Super helpful !!
I learned lots !!!
Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🔥 🧰
Yes. Correct. These is not a spring inside but the pressure moving the sprocket relative to the cams. Using the cam lock tool allows perfect alignment of the cams and then without pressure the sprockets should align to their proper position and only with pressure should they be able to adjust, so when the car is on and the vvt allows modification of position. I was thinking I had a similar issue as getting vvt errors but timing was perfect. The heads off again and we’ll be doing timing again and hope to have those codes gone.
@@moosedroppings Thanks for your reply. Spring loaded or not the uncertainty I have is as follows: camshaft perfectly in place (locked with the tool), camshaft adjuster gear marking aligned perfectly and matching the cambelt (it's teeth), however that moving middle part of timing adjuster has a limited range and maybe could be moved clockwise or opposite if is not locked (some of those have internal locking pin actuated by the oil pressure at the engine start otherwise remain locked (whole unit has no moving parts by hand so installation can't go wrong - is it our case?). If the middle part of adjuster is free to move then the whole range of retarding vs advancing will unlikely be within specific range. I am about to get there in my car to take a risk and check it myself. On one video a guy disassembled timing adjuster from Audi to show how sprocket can move although the middle part which is bolted to the camshaft stays in place so in reverse order when installing it would be possible that marking just shows sprocket's positions as correct, camshafts locked correctly but still system will be not able to move within desired range. I hope I share my confusion clearly. Have a good weekend.
Really good info!
Thanks for watching!!!
Great video! Thank you for sharing.
hope it helps!!!
Very helpful my buddy, thank you 🙏
Does timing marks are virtually visible I had a hard time finding them thanks for the info
Exactly. Mark them with paint market or something for ease next time
Those gears are timing adjusters are not spring loaded and because they have the central part bolted to the camshaft aren't they supposed to be rotating and moving with the camshafts at variable angles because the oil pressure will work inside of the adjuster (gear)? Meaning - although marking outside can be aligned, the central part of the camshaft adjuster can be in wrong position so will be a cam and as the consequence not being able to move at correct and full range between retarded and advanced angle?
Or that adjuster is a fixed sprocket without any moving parts inside?
That bothers me a lot and I can't find an answer.
Hey question, I have the belt off: when i put the crank at the TDC line on the oil pump, and I check piston one to confirm it is at the top, the piston can actually keep moving up a bit more when i rotate the crank. So, piston one is not at the top when the crank lines up with the notch on the oil pump. How do I fix this? I am obviously missing something
There is no adjustment. Piston one is bolted to the crank. The crank is sandwiched between the block and bed pan. The oil pump only bolts in one way. That is strange but if you’re talking a mm vs a half inch that’s a big variation. I couldn’t say for sure what your seeing but if your able to check that might as well also do a compression check and maybe a leak down test since your spark plug is already out. No leak lose and hood compression should set aside any worry
What if the sprockets move off marks while trying to put on cam lock tools?
No worries since you are dialing the timing in anyways. You can just make sure everything lines up as you dial it in.
What if the cam wheel was rolled backwards?
@@2cents740 Are you saying the cam gears moved while the cams were locked, meaning the gears moved off the alignment of the cams? If so, easy, doesn't matter, align the cams per the locking tool, then you can align the cam gears to alignment marks on the plastic cover and tighten.
Hey, hello! Thanks for the content, it's life saving. I got a 674D code.. maybe the cam is off by a tooth? It look very well aligned tho.. maybe a bad sensor? Just got the timing belt replaced.. hard to find a mechanic that knows Volvo in Brazil.
sorry, not seeing that code anywhere.... likely timing is a smidge off, very common and easy to do, but the tech should have handled and cleared codes before returning to you,
Thanks for the fast reply! The code mentions Cam position low on the intake side. ECM-674D and I got a ECM-740C signal high it say it's a permanent problem.. not sure if related. The mechanic is trying to solve the problem but the car is now fully mounted.. to advance a tooth in the intake side of the cam, I need to do the entire timing procedure again or there is another way? Is there any problem on driving the car like this? Everything else seems fine, car apparently runs great.
Oh. It is likely off. Had similar issues. Redo the entire thing. There are hacks to jump teeth but better to simply do it fresh to make sure. Even the cam lock tool would ensure it is perfect.
Any reason you know that is only throwing error on the intake side? If I advance the whole thing a smidge and fix the intake side, won't start to throw error on the exhaust (high)? I'm sorry, very new to this stuff
Three separate rotations, crank, intake cam, exhaust cam. Intake side could be off by itself. But you have to pull the timing belt anyways to adjust. Try not to move the others. The cam lock tool will lock them all into spot perfectly and allow the belt to go on with them where they should be. You would have to pop the caps on the other side to apply the tool and replace with new caps when done