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How Good is A Diamond Nozzle?! (We tested it!)
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- Remember the @ChampionXImprovingLives #Diamondback Nozzle we introduced in last week’s video? We’ve been using it since then, and now we want to tell you all about it! We’re breaking down the pros and cons of getting one and whether or not it’s worth the price.
Definitely watch our first video on this nozzle to get up to speed!
• Diamond 3D Printer Noz...
We used SuperSlicer for temperature calibration!
Links:
0.4mm Diamondback Nozzle (affiliate): amzn.to/3tab7Le
Nerd Nozzle Ring: www.printables...
Cards:
Diamond Nozzle First Look: • Diamond 3D Printer Noz...
PrusaSlicer 2.4 Update Full Release Review: • PrusaSlicer 2.4 FULL R...
E3D Revo Unboxing: • This Will Change 3D Pr...
Sanjay Series: • Sanjay Series
0:00 Intro
1:13 The Basics
2:11 Sponsor Segment
4:01 Printing With The Nozzle
7:18 The Nozzle's Lack of Warranty
7:55 Sanjay Mortimer Aside
8:37 Conclusion/Outro
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🎁 UA-cam Channel Memberships! 🧡💯 b.link/YTmembe...
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🛒 Shop Prusa with our Affiliate Code: shop.prusa3d.c...
🛒 Shop Slice Engineering with our Affiliate Link to save some 💰 💰!! b.link/Slice-E...
Save 💰 💰 on Zyltech Filament use code 3DM at checkout for sweet savings off your entire order: Zyltech.com code: 3DM
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I'm a hobbyist but I love the idea of having these nozzles and being able to use any type of filament. Thanks for reviewing it!
Absolutely! It has been a fun ride! We will have to do an update on it in maybe 6 months time to see how it works out, but so far, I dig it!
I have Nozzle X on all of my printers - never had a problem with the nozzle. I'm willing to pay a premium for a "lifetime" nozzle, but not sure a $100 for one with no warranty.
I kind of feel the same way honestly.. I will see if there is a warranty on these though...
it has a 1 year after purchase limited warranty. My reading is that if it breaks due to manufacturer defect, they will repair, replace or refund the nozzle.
@@tobyvestal Thanks for the reply. I no longer have any printers that it would fit, two Bambu and two Phaetus XG with their special 4mm nozzle
That is understandable. For me, the cost will be written off, and if it last as long as it they say great if not it just has to last 1 year, and I am ahead.
We need a head to head diamondback vs. CHT for flow
Cht will win. But not when we toss carbon fibers at it, at least not in the long run lol
What temperature do you guys print PLA with the diamond back. My overhangs look very poor..... (compared to the stock nozzle. Prusa MK4)
do a temp tower and see. Often, 170-190 is good.
@@3DMusketeers I did. But I didn’t go so low. For reference. The default for Prusament PLA was 225, and it printed perfectly with the original brass nozzle. Will try lower temps. TY
absolutely, yes you will need lower temps.
Bought the diamond back ended up getting massive stringing regardless of temp or retraction settings I mean I've turn the temp down to the point where the firmware stops the machine from extruding still strings badly
Did you run a temp tower? We often run PLA down to around 180 or so for slow printing.
I just want to know how much Nylon Carbon Fiber the Diamondback can print?
I am 15kg deep with no issues yet!
@@3DMusketeers I got a .6mm because I thought it would last longer then .4mm running Nylon Carbon Fiber. Any thoughts on that? Prime Day $75.00
check some of our more recent videos, they have sponsored us and we have a code for you :) it stacks.
0.6 will have a lower chance of clogging, but otherwise they should not have issues with failure.
@@3DMusketeers thx!
absolutely!
Big question is, can it do more flow with the same standard temperature 🤔
Likely it could.. I do not have an easy way to measure it, but yes, if it needs colder temps, if you left it at regular temps you could flow more through it.
Interesting that the thermal conductivity is the big advantage rather than the hardness .
Seems like a win win to me. Especially if you want to print materials close to the max of an all metal hotend, like PPS which needs around 300-315C. You could run it at likely 290 and it may work fine!
I was apart of the Kickstarter and I have 3 of these nozzles and they are so nice to print with.
Oh cool! I only have the 0.4, but WOW is it nice!
@@3DMusketeers there is a .25mm in development. The prints being made from it are amazing
Oh damn! But also, gosh, 0.25 likely means lots of clogging for fiber filled stuff, no?
I would love to see them be able to handle above 300C. Frankly, I would love a call with the company, I just have to find the time to reach out during normal people hours ha ha!
Very interesting review, thanks!
It is definitely some cool tech! Interested to see how it performs
Great content once again. Please keep it up.
Quick question if you don’t mind. What would you say to someone who wanted this nozzle largely because they didn’t want to change their temperature and retraction settings?
You will have to change your temp settings with this nozzle. This would be best for someone who prints in exotics often and wants something that does not force them to go hotter. I do not know what it will be like in months of hard fiber filled use, but I intend to find out!
Makes sense. What nozzle would you recommend to a person who wanted to maintain their brass nozzle settings but also wanted to also print abrasives? Tungsten carbide?
None. They all have different thermal conductivities so you will have to change things. For this one, all I did was adjust the temps, everything else is stock
instead of buying them tickets ima but 1 of those nozzles
ok
Great to see the review.
Thanks!
I was going to guess 230C for PETG. 220C is impressive.
RIGHT?!?!?!
Will this nozzle work on my cr10s pro V2?
Yep. It's threaded m6 so you're good to go.
For the diamond back even though it has some sticking out from the heat block on the microswiss hotend mk8 can it still be used without any issues for PETG and PLA?
As long as it is tight against the heatbreak you should be good to go!
Which is better? A diamondback nozzzle, or tungsten carbide nozzle?
Diamond has better thermal conductivity.
i think that I will wait for the revo micro with the obxidian nozzle to come out
I want one of those too!!!!!
I just want the Obsidian nozzle - it seems to be as good at a much more reasonable price
I WANT ALL THE NOZZLES lol
Is the obsidian nozzle actually made of hardened steel (maybe tungsten carbide?) But in anycase, it's not going to beat diamon in hardness, coefficient of friction and thermal conductivity though
Do these still work right for nozzle touch offs on mesh bed leveling?
oh yeah, no issues!
Overall have you seen more stringing with the DiamondBack nozzle compared to stock? It’s stringing like crazy for me, but the lowest I’ve gone is 230 on PETG.
when it was at 230-240, yes, but at 220 it is PERFECT!
I know you have abit hatred of Bambu but could you do a video of a 3rd party hotend with one of these Diamond nozzles in it?
when I get a working Bambu lol
70 C
Can we use the diamond back for higher temps? Like PEEK
They don't warranty past 300c but I theory it should work.
I bought a cheap nozzle for my printer. This was before I realized that silk needs to be hotter. I noticed the threading was much shorter than the original nozzle. I was a little concerned. At some point I had issues due to the silk. This is when I fried my hot end........on my new printer!!! lol After replacing it and the fuse (that part scared me because initially the new one didn't work either, but after that I tested the original with a multimeter and yup it's shorted) I did a post mortum. I noticed the heat block didn't like having the shorter threads. I won't be using those again. lol But $100 nozzle? I don't think so. lol
Yeah it is not cheap for sure, I get that. Definitely not for everyone. The Nozzle X from E3d is a great option if you are doing abrasives, but if you stay away from glow or other filled filaments (carbon fiber) a good quality brass nozzle is all you need.
So,Nozzle X is better than hardened steel nozzle? Prints all the abrasive materials? Thanks
The nozzle X is hardened steel. I do prefer the diamond nozzle though as it has better thermal performance, but take that with a grain of salt because it is 2.5x the price of a nozzle x
@@3DMusketeers nozzle x has a coat on it while h.steel doesn’t it’s just black. And X is 10€ more than h.steel.
Right, that coating is the only difference. I would get a Nozzle X over the standard hardened steel, but if you have the budget, MAN those diamond nozzles are nice!
@@3DMusketeers thanks!
Absolutely!
Diamond inserts are hardcore!
VERY!
The friction of the nozzle on the print. It helps not pull up as i speed up.
really? I will have to try
@3DMusketeers yep but I am also coming from a harden steel nozzle. It seems like filament sticks to the steel better than a glue stick covered bed. Run lots of parts and some glo / cf. Machines run 16+hrs a day. Seems to help with even temps as well from a slow technical outer wall to fast infill. Again, that's coming from a quality steel nozzle.
I do agree with you that if you are not running production and cf parts, then a cheaper one is more cost-effective. Have 2 ratrig v minnions and looking to build up a v core 3 500 first quarter next year.
indeed, they are NOT cheap, but I think it works for those in the biz lol
220 for PETG? Isn't that too cold?
Not when you have the thermal conductivity of diamond. In fact we run closer to 215 or 210 with petg now.
The tip is great, the brass is not. It snaps off in the blocks. :(
If you're breaking the brass of a nozzle, you're doing something wrong