here's a tip for timing a muzzle device. if for example your torque value is 20-30 ft lbs then torque it to 20 ft lbs, set your torque wrench to 30 then turn it to where you need it. obviously it can only turn so much before it clicks 30 ft lbs, but can definitely reduce the amount of times you need to mess with shims. btw this is how aircraft tires are installed to line up the castle nut with the lock bolt.
Well cousin we did it by 1/3 so you get 33 increments of torque but anything more then 1 is better. The more increments used is more closer to the final value. That’s how we torque big diesels on the ships.
Very glad you mention 90* on torque wrench when using adapter heads. If you are NOT at 180* or 90* from device with torque wrench…you are changing the torque values!
Now that I’ve gotten my inner child subdued, and I’ve watched the video… great content! As a mechanic, I always enjoy watching things get torn down and put back together.
Most torque wrenches need to be put back to the lowest setting for storage, or else the calibration can get off the correct value. For muzzle devices on which I put a suppressor, I use Rocksett (Brownells has it, also in Europe) to make sure it doesn't start unscrewing on its own.
@@connorsurrency2452 how you remove red loctite is with heat. Rocksett is removed by soaking in hot water. I have seen both used…but personally would recommend Rocksett vs Red Loctite.
@@connorsurrency2452 With a suppressor mounted the muzzle device will get extremely hot, which is how you remove red loctite, so better avoid it if using a can.
Rockset is a more secure semi-permanent solution, but it can be removed using boiling water. I use it for all my muzzle devices that will see suppressor use.
Unless you want to shoot like me with a tanker style brake for fun and make fireballs, the A2 style muzzle device is the most criminally underrated muzzle device for flash hiding. Probably the best…
I personally like jam nuts. I HATE crush washers because they are a major pain to remove, as Clint demonstrated. I'm not a big fan of stacked shims, either. Although, they are a much better alternative to crush washers. For me though, jam nuts work like a charm to get proper timing and you really don't need to worry about torque if you just snug them good. I've never had a problem with them loosening on me.
If youre gonna be working on an upper, I'd recommend getting a reaction rod, not a vice block or the magpul upper block. They are plastic and tend to flex, especially if you are torquing the barrel nut or the muzzle device. Real Avid makes a good one, so does Wheeler and many others and they are about the same price point as the other vice blocks. Also, many muzzle devices will be installed with a crush washer. I would put those on with the concave side towards the muzzle. With a crush washer you have more control over timing. Never go more than a single turn after youve reached your torque value with a crush washer, 1/2-28 threads will strip out then you have to pin and weld.
If you find like I have your armors wrench is a little to sloppy on your muzzle device try a 10” or 12” Cresent wrench. Cresent is a brand name so many times this wrench is referred to as an adjustable wrench & will fit the flats on most muzzle devices!
One thing not mentioned that may be important is if you have a 14.5" barrel or possibly a ban state gun they may have a pinned and welded muzzle attachment. If you try to take one off it will damage the threads.
@@Markmiller420 realistically sacrifice the brake. You may be able to get clever with a dremel and weld/machine where you cut to remove the pin but I wouldn't like the odds. Keep in mind you would have to pin and weld a new brake of adequate length on to stay legal. You may also need heat as it may be silver soldered besides.
Prefer Bev Block or Reaction rod over upper vice block due to it interfacing with barrel extension so it’s not putting stress on the barrel alignment pin, no reason it should be so tight that you shear barrel pin but I have seen sheared barrel pins 🤔
I’d also check the calibration of my torque wrench. Some of them come brand new significantly out of spec. There are plenty of how to videos on YT how to calibrate it. It’s not difficult.
If you have to pick only one you will use inch pounds torque wrench more then foot pound torque wrench on firearms. Like everything that mounts on a rail takes inch pounds not foot pounds. Trigger guard screw, some that have bolt catch screw, some duel safety selectors, hand grips, all that and some more take inch pounds. The only three things I can think of that would take foot pounds would be buffer tube castle nut, barrel nut and muzzle devices.
Interesting. Didnt know there was an ACTUAL torque value for flash hiders. I usually put the TDC at the 10:00 position or close to it. Then crank it til it gets to the 12 o'clock position or close to it. Hand tighten only until I get the 10 o'clock position I desire. I also use crush washers with shims (if needed) and vibratite. Prob will melt but ehhh.. I like it. Never had a muzzle device fly off from me yet. Also when loosening, instead of cranking it loose. Use your non dominant hand to hold the wrench or adapter tool steady and straight at the muzzle device and give it a quick whack with your dominant hand on the handle end of the ratchet. To break it loose. It'll be easier on you.
Hey... so what happens when you set your torque wrench to 20lbs and before you even get to 20lbs, your barrel twists and cracks your gas tube... asking for a friend
I appreciate how you used only the upper for this video. It takes 2 seconds guys to separate your upper and lower. Let’s remember when we’re working in front of the muzzle, take all safety measures. Be the example.
How do you time a 4 prong flash hider? One prong at 6 O"clock or no prong (open) at 6 O'clock. I would think you would want a prong at 6 O'clock to keep from burning holes in shooting bags and from kicking up dust and snow when shooting prone but, I have seen factory installed 4 prongs timed with one prong at 6 O'clock.
Clint, thanks for making this very informative video. I think you already answered my question in the video. The question is can I get away with not using rockset or loctite on my surefire 4 prong as long as it is torqued to spec? My armorer installed it and it ended up at 32 foot pounds. He said never use that rockset unless you plan on never taking the muzzle brake off. Do you think 32 foot pounds without any rockset will stay on without worries? Thank you 🙏🏻
i Don't understand why not to just use a crush washer to get the timing right. They're cheap so if you accidentally go too far you can just start over with a new one. all VG6 muzzle devices come with a good crush washer and expo arms sells a multi pack for cheap. as for vices, I got the $19.99 harbor freight that i put on my Ikea TV stand and it's perfect. That along with the Avid upper vice block has enabled me to do complete builds in my living room while enjoying these videos. The $19.99 vise is so good that it even works for scope leveling and barrel nut instal. believe it or not, my iphone level app is super accurate down to .1 which is a lot better than guessing with the real bubble level.
I just use a small dab of aeroshell moly grease on the muzzle threads just like the barrel nut, never had an issue. Barrels get too hot for loctite, it's rather useless on them.
***Suggestion for giveaway...PCC and handgun (race gun) for competitions! Include both for one winner. Love you videos and I enter your contests every day!
The A2 produces no compensation. It was designed with a solid bottom to stop the blast from creating a dust cloud. So what was said about the A2 flash hider wasn't 100% correct. There's a good video here of a guy trying and measuring the compensation of several muzzle attachments. The A2 didn't have any compensation at all. The recoil was the same with and without the flash suppressor.
Timing like a clock face. How the muzzle device is lined up with barrel. 12'oclock is straight up has the ports in a "neutral" setting for most devices. The gasses are dispersed evenly. He goes into it as to you may want to offset whether you are right handed shooter or left handed.
Clint, gotta show some love to Thunder Beast out of Cheyenne, WY. Best rifle suppressors out there and they have an assortment of muzzle devices to check out.
Jam nut is better plus reusable. No need for torque wrench or tread locker. Use a little anti seize so it’s easier to remove if need be. I’ve never had one come lose.
here's a tip for timing a muzzle device. if for example your torque value is 20-30 ft lbs then torque it to 20 ft lbs, set your torque wrench to 30 then turn it to where you need it. obviously it can only turn so much before it clicks 30 ft lbs, but can definitely reduce the amount of times you need to mess with shims. btw this is how aircraft tires are installed to line up the castle nut with the lock bolt.
We just bump it a few times until it lines up….on airplanes
@@justing42 yeah, we do that as well
Can confirm this comment is 100% true.
Well cousin we did it by 1/3 so you get 33 increments of torque but anything more then 1 is better. The more increments used is more closer to the final value. That’s how we torque big diesels on the ships.
Really good advice right here
As someone new (at least to ARs) I found this very informative. Thanks for the great demonstrations Clint.
Absolutely!
Very glad you mention 90* on torque wrench when using adapter heads. If you are NOT at 180* or 90* from device with torque wrench…you are changing the torque values!
Now that I’ve gotten my inner child subdued, and I’ve watched the video… great content! As a mechanic, I always enjoy watching things get torn down and put back together.
Midwest reaction rod is superior to the Geissele. It supports both the barrel and the upper receiver, keeps it all aligned better.
Clint: "If I had a lever long enough, I could move the world."
Me: 😭 That was beautiful man.
No that was Archimedes
@@phaking2409Don't ruin his moment. He is moved
Most torque wrenches need to be put back to the lowest setting for storage, or else the calibration can get off the correct value.
For muzzle devices on which I put a suppressor, I use Rocksett (Brownells has it, also in Europe) to make sure it doesn't start unscrewing on its own.
Would red loctite work as well or should I avoid it?
@@connorsurrency2452 how you remove red loctite is with heat. Rocksett is removed by soaking in hot water. I have seen both used…but personally would recommend Rocksett vs Red Loctite.
@@connorsurrency2452 With a suppressor mounted the muzzle device will get extremely hot, which is how you remove red loctite, so better avoid it if using a can.
Funny how some people use rocksett and others use aeroshell which is like the exact opposite lol
Surefire recommends 3 red shims and 3 green shims for 12 o' clock timing. It's worked everytime for me.
Rockset is a more secure semi-permanent solution, but it can be removed using boiling water. I use it for all my muzzle devices that will see suppressor use.
Very informative video for anyone That doesn’t have much time or knowledge on this!! Great video per usual. Love the channel
Unless you want to shoot like me with a tanker style brake for fun and make fireballs, the A2 style muzzle device is the most criminally underrated muzzle device for flash hiding. Probably the best…
I’m building a 300 blackout and was working out my muzzle just today. Thanks for the training!
I like these kind of videos. It teaches something new to some and refreshes your memory for the rest.
Dude this is one of the best videos yet I have had guns for years but this great information sometimes you don't know what you just don't know
Great video. Very informative. Recommend a electronic torque wrench, then you dont always have to remember to zero out the wrench for storage.
That 18 min mark is what I needed good sir
Same!
For me that little silvers sliver poping through all that black made my ocd kick in lol
I personally like jam nuts. I HATE crush washers because they are a major pain to remove, as Clint demonstrated. I'm not a big fan of stacked shims, either. Although, they are a much better alternative to crush washers. For me though, jam nuts work like a charm to get proper timing and you really don't need to worry about torque if you just snug them good. I've never had a problem with them loosening on me.
I bought a TacFire knurled linear comp from CF and put it on a 300blk because it was short cycling and it fixed the issue. Runs perfectly now.
If youre gonna be working on an upper, I'd recommend getting a reaction rod, not a vice block or the magpul upper block. They are plastic and tend to flex, especially if you are torquing the barrel nut or the muzzle device. Real Avid makes a good one, so does Wheeler and many others and they are about the same price point as the other vice blocks. Also, many muzzle devices will be installed with a crush washer. I would put those on with the concave side towards the muzzle. With a crush washer you have more control over timing. Never go more than a single turn after youve reached your torque value with a crush washer, 1/2-28 threads will strip out then you have to pin and weld.
Midwest Industries Receiver Action Rod is said to be the best at keeping the barrel from twisting.
Barrel clamp was actually quite helpful. Rubber ones from Otis.
Made it ridiculously easy.
Sometimes it's the little things we're looking for. Thanks for the video.
This was great. More how-to videos like this would be awesome.
Rock Set is not permanent. It will come off with the same ease as blue loctite and has more heat resistance than red. Although red has a lot too
With the surefire warcomp make sure the beveled side of the thick shim faces the receiver.
Didnt know you could get shims for a muzzle device. Good to know.
If you find like I have your armors wrench is a little to sloppy on your muzzle device try a 10” or 12” Cresent wrench. Cresent is a brand name so many times this wrench is referred to as an adjustable wrench & will fit the flats on most muzzle devices!
I had to pin and weld a brake on my 14.5 cuz that's illegal if you don't. Thanks ATF for making a safer place.
A pair of decent side cutters makes quick work of the crush washer
The reason it's important to make sure the threads are clean and lubricated is to get the proper torque.
Classic Firearms- Thank You SO MUCH. This has been Very Educational and i enjoyed it
Good information Clint. This something I needed to know. Thank you.
Muzzle jam nuts are pretty good. Just time the break where you need it and back the jam nut to spec against the muzzle device.
One thing not mentioned that may be important is if you have a 14.5" barrel or possibly a ban state gun they may have a pinned and welded muzzle attachment. If you try to take one off it will damage the threads.
I don’t have a welded bit it is pined do you have any recommendations to get it out without damage?
@@Markmiller420 realistically sacrifice the brake. You may be able to get clever with a dremel and weld/machine where you cut to remove the pin but I wouldn't like the odds.
Keep in mind you would have to pin and weld a new brake of adequate length on to stay legal. You may also need heat as it may be silver soldered besides.
@@thetriode I appreciate the advice. Thx
Another good video - Haven't seen Alek in a video in a while - is he ok?
Well… the A2 birdcage is set up to not kick up dust when shooting from the prone….
Prefer Bev Block or Reaction rod over upper vice block due to it interfacing with barrel extension so it’s not putting stress on the barrel alignment pin, no reason it should be so tight that you shear barrel pin but I have seen sheared barrel pins 🤔
I’d also check the calibration of my torque wrench. Some of them come brand new significantly out of spec. There are plenty of how to videos on YT how to calibrate it. It’s not difficult.
I've heard it's risky to use the bev block to do work on the barrel, that it can damage the index pin. Anyone actually have that happen?
my break came with a jam nut, super easy.
If you have to pick only one you will use inch pounds torque wrench more then foot pound torque wrench on firearms. Like everything that mounts on a rail takes inch pounds not foot pounds. Trigger guard screw, some that have bolt catch screw, some duel safety selectors, hand grips, all that and some more take inch pounds. The only three things I can think of that would take foot pounds would be buffer tube castle nut, barrel nut and muzzle devices.
Perfect timing. I'm changing mine next week and don't know how. Thanks for the info guys
You should make a video on the new STRIKE INDUSTRIES SI OPPRESSOR UNIVERSAL I don't see anyone do one..
Great video for anyone that hasn’t seen this being done before!! Love the channel!!
I was a gunsmith in the army on m16 rifles rule of thumb if I remember right was 3 shims but it's been a while
I used a lock washer and crescent wrench. I later bought a normal crush washer though.
Thanks Neckbone, great video: right to the point!
me at 3am with a cabela's club armorer's wrench, a psa upper, and my bare hands removing an a2 birdcage:
Ever since I heard someone call the stock of the scar an “UGG Boot Stock.” I can’t unsee it!
And now you see it…. You’re welcome.
Interesting. Didnt know there was an ACTUAL torque value for flash hiders. I usually put the TDC at the 10:00 position or close to it. Then crank it til it gets to the 12 o'clock position or close to it. Hand tighten only until I get the 10 o'clock position I desire. I also use crush washers with shims (if needed) and vibratite. Prob will melt but ehhh.. I like it. Never had a muzzle device fly off from me yet.
Also when loosening, instead of cranking it loose. Use your non dominant hand to hold the wrench or adapter tool steady and straight at the muzzle device and give it a quick whack with your dominant hand on the handle end of the ratchet. To break it loose. It'll be easier on you.
Hit the thumbs up to help Clint buy a new vice
Just ordered some 9mm, Shipping was next day. Thanks!
I want to see how you attach a long one to a 14.5 one to make it 16 with MAP and silver solder at home.
Figure’s..the only one you didn’t show getting put on was the VG6 Gamma. The only one outta those I have. Lol.
Hey... so what happens when you set your torque wrench to 20lbs and before you even get to 20lbs, your barrel twists and cracks your gas tube... asking for a friend
I prefer Accu-Washer over crush washers.
Solid
Rocksett requires less torque to remove than red loctite does. Also, MI URR > geissele reaction rod.
Would've liked to see a quicky maybe some slow motion of what each does when shooting after each install
I use crush washers for just my A2 style devices, but any pronged or nice muzzle devices I use silver shims... And they just look cool too..lol
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for.
Cherrybomb- Flash Enhancer...
It’s a great suppressor host tho
Jesus: No man is good.
Clint: Get your muzzle device nice and tight you gonna be good.
I appreciate how you used only the upper for this video. It takes 2 seconds guys to separate your upper and lower. Let’s remember when we’re working in front of the muzzle, take all safety measures. Be the example.
That hk in the back tho 😍
How do you time a 4 prong flash hider? One prong at 6 O"clock or no prong (open) at 6 O'clock. I would think you would want a prong at 6 O'clock to keep from burning holes in shooting bags and from kicking up dust and snow when shooting prone but, I have seen factory installed 4 prongs timed with one prong at 6 O'clock.
Correction -- I have seen factory installed 4 prongs timed with no prong at 6 (open) O'clock.
Ive had my a2 bird cage on my rifle with out a washer for years. Didnt realize until yesterday it wae upside down lol.
Clint, thanks for making this very informative video. I think you already answered my question in the video. The question is can I get away with not using rockset or loctite on my surefire 4 prong as long as it is torqued to spec? My armorer installed it and it ended up at 32 foot pounds. He said never use that rockset unless you plan on never taking the muzzle brake off. Do you think 32 foot pounds without any rockset will stay on without worries? Thank you 🙏🏻
I hold the grip, put my knee on the barrel, and use a large crescent wrench.
i Don't understand why not to just use a crush washer to get the timing right. They're cheap so if you accidentally go too far you can just start over with a new one. all VG6 muzzle devices come with a good crush washer and expo arms sells a multi pack for cheap. as for vices, I got the $19.99 harbor freight that i put on my Ikea TV stand and it's perfect. That along with the Avid upper vice block has enabled me to do complete builds in my living room while enjoying these videos. The $19.99 vise is so good that it even works for scope leveling and barrel nut instal. believe it or not, my iphone level app is super accurate down to .1 which is a lot better than guessing with the real bubble level.
Is it recommended to use any kind of lube for threads?
Great knowledge again, thank you once more!
Real Avid reaction rod is my go too.
I just use a small dab of aeroshell moly grease on the muzzle threads just like the barrel nut, never had an issue. Barrels get too hot for loctite, it's rather useless on them.
The cherry bomb reminds me of the comp on the SOCOM16 that thing spits some wicked fireballs and is equivalently as loud though.
Great video and looking forward to using it real soon
FDA see this video like 🤓 don’t you dare on that 14.5
***Suggestion for giveaway...PCC and handgun (race gun) for competitions! Include both for one winner. Love you videos and I enter your contests every day!
Tq wrench? Heck, 3 ugga duggas usually work 🤣
The A2 produces no compensation. It was designed with a solid bottom to stop the blast from creating a dust cloud. So what was said about the A2 flash hider wasn't 100% correct.
There's a good video here of a guy trying and measuring the compensation of several muzzle attachments. The A2 didn't have any compensation at all. The recoil was the same with and without the flash suppressor.
Torque in one sweeping motion to get accurate torque measurements. Why you torque in steps
With the BEV block I always just put the BCG in backwards to balance it. Great Video.
Great video. Very useful and informative. I like to know if the Cherry Bomb will fit or be compatible with a 300 Blackout?
Thank you clint taught me some new tricks
I wish Magpul made a bev block for AR-10s.
Awesome demo Clint!
Bearded Clint is back!
You explained the crush washer really well. I got lost in the timing part.
Timing like a clock face. How the muzzle device is lined up with barrel. 12'oclock is straight up has the ports in a "neutral" setting for most devices. The gasses are dispersed evenly. He goes into it as to you may want to offset whether you are right handed shooter or left handed.
Thanks Clint, very informative video!
What's the name and model of the vise? Looks great for what I need. Great video btw.
Do you need to separate the upper from the lower receiver before removing/installing the muzzle device?
New drinking game: Take a shot every time Clint says "guy/guys" LOL
Jam nut can also be used for timing
So CF is in North Carolina but this is a California phone #?
Good job 👍
Clint, gotta show some love to Thunder Beast out of Cheyenne, WY. Best rifle suppressors out there and they have an assortment of muzzle devices to check out.
Awesome video! Thank you very much
why not use the tool paralel to tork wrench instead of 90 degree?
What muzzle device would you recommend for a Ruger 5x7x28 carbine?
🤔I do this everyday . Crush washer is must for every devise including flash cans
Jam nut is better plus reusable. No need for torque wrench or tread locker. Use a little anti seize so it’s easier to remove if need be. I’ve never had one come lose.
I installed a Faxon Firearms break. It has a counter rotation ring.