NOTE: Make sure you fit any cheater bar to the full length of the hand grip section (which is where load forces are meant to be applied) otherwise you may bend or break something. Cheers Rob
You should see the air-powered, hydraulically-operated ones for the real bastard fasteners you get in aerospace. Bit of bother to set up but it's like going from a muzzle-loader to a machine gun.
I can confirm this does work at treat Rob. My problem is that any cheater bar I own usually get's turned into a project and therefore it's always a hunt for a suitable one of suitable material.
Hi Ian. I guard my cheater bar collection passionately. For some strange reason ideal cheater bars have almost magical qualities and a fit that any other ordinary piece of tube could never hope to duplicate. Store them safely, as you will almost certainly need their help anytime soon. Cheers Rob
Thanks for the very useful tip Rob. The last time I used my pop rivet tool I really struggled with it. This old man doesn't have the strength he used to have. Cheers Nobby
We used to do this at work occasionally when doing 6mm rivets. For occasional use it's a great solution, but if you do it intensively you're going to want a good quality riveter, the jaws on cheap rivet guns give up in a hurry on the heavy rivets. We also had scissor action riveters, which are great, they make the whole thing a breeze, but they cost a small fortune and require a lot of space directly in front of the rivet (hence the use of classic riveters and cheater bars on some hard to get at spaces). We also had a pneumatic riveter, but it was a pain in the hole to use outside the workshop as you needed to trek about with a compressor, airline and genny.
Ah, all good info. A pop rivet guru told me years ago that large rivets will stuff up the jaws (tear off the serrations) on these cheap lever rivet guns and shouldn't really be used. I've done hundreds with mine OK, but have always had that in the back of my mind. It's interesting how the rivet nails differ in break off loading with type and brand. Cheers Rob
My preference is for the design that uses 2 equal-length arms that open and close in unison, in a bellows-like action. My brand even has a little cup to catch the ejected shafts. These designs work well because you are using your arm strength rather than hand strength to break off the rivet shaft. The only downside is that you need more clearance to position the tool so it's not ideal for riveting in confined spaces.
It sure works Wayne. Just be sure to fit cheater bars that go the full length of the hand grip section, otherwise it may bend or break something. Cheers Rob
Hi Alan. Makes life a little easier. I only did the video after my Bro Inlaw commented on how well the hack worked after I told him. So it must be worth sharing :) Cheers Rob
Good tip Rob. I have had that issue before when I was riveting security window stays with steel rivets (harder for the burglars to break steel rivets than aluminum rivets). The break off pressure for the nail is a lot more with steel rivets. I have never seen these types of small pop rivet guns with long handles. Maybe there is a market for them if they can be made cheap enough?
Hi Jon. I have seen long handled much heavier duty versions of this type being used by professional sheet metal workers (as big as long handled lopping shears). Definitely a better option for extended use. I had never thought to extend the handles until now and had just struggled on through the years. It makes a lot of sense to use longer handles. It doesn't put any more loading on the rivet gun, it just makes it a lot easier for the operator to apply the same pressure. So I don't see it doing any harm. Cheers Rob
There are bigger units that would be able to take the force thats needed for the bigger rivets. I personally would not use cheater bars, those cheaper ones do break easily. And yes, i do have both. One will also do rivet nuts.
A pop rivet guru did tell me once that the large rivets are not recommended for these guns (even though they are made to take them) as it can damage the three serrated gripping jaws in the nose. I've done hundreds of large rivets with this gun and never had an issue, apart from the force needed to be applied through the regular handles. Cheers Rob
If you want to try some 'hard to snap off' rivets, try the ones made of monel metal. I used to have to use them on the yacht mast/boom for their corrosion resistance. They're the worst I ever used with a gun like that.
My Bro Inlaw has one of those concertina guns. He recons it's good, but doesn't seem to use it as often as the lever type, for whatever reason. Cheers Rob
It should work with any rivet of a size the gun can handle. All this does is apply the same pressure, but make it easier for the operator to do. Cheers Rob
NOTE: Make sure you fit any cheater bar to the full length of the hand grip section (which is where load forces are meant to be applied) otherwise you may bend or break something. Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob!
You should see the air-powered, hydraulically-operated ones for the real bastard fasteners you get in aerospace. Bit of bother to set up but it's like going from a muzzle-loader to a machine gun.
Yes I can well imagine. These basic ones are certainly low rent. Real gut busters at times ;) Cheers Rob
Yep, that’ll pop any pop-rivet until the handle snaps 😂😂. It’s a handy tip though Rob, well done mate. Cheers, Stu.
Like any cheater bar, make sure it goes the full length of the grip and all should be OK (within the intended limits of the tool). Cheers Rob
I can confirm this does work at treat Rob. My problem is that any cheater bar I own usually get's turned into a project and therefore it's always a hunt for a suitable one of suitable material.
Hi Ian. I guard my cheater bar collection passionately. For some strange reason ideal cheater bars have almost magical qualities and a fit that any other ordinary piece of tube could never hope to duplicate. Store them safely, as you will almost certainly need their help anytime soon. Cheers Rob
Thanks for the very useful tip Rob. The last time I used my pop rivet tool I really struggled with it. This old man doesn't have the strength he used to have. Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. Same here. I'm not as strong as I used to be. That's why I finally went this way. Cheers Rob
Great idea Rob. Thank you.
Worth a mention Brian. Maybe they should make them with longer handles in the first place. Cheers Rob
I always enjoy your videos, Rob! Your enthusiasm is infectious, and I learn something every time!
Thanks. Can't take life too seriously :) Cheers Rob
We used to do this at work occasionally when doing 6mm rivets. For occasional use it's a great solution, but if you do it intensively you're going to want a good quality riveter, the jaws on cheap rivet guns give up in a hurry on the heavy rivets. We also had scissor action riveters, which are great, they make the whole thing a breeze, but they cost a small fortune and require a lot of space directly in front of the rivet (hence the use of classic riveters and cheater bars on some hard to get at spaces). We also had a pneumatic riveter, but it was a pain in the hole to use outside the workshop as you needed to trek about with a compressor, airline and genny.
Ah, all good info. A pop rivet guru told me years ago that large rivets will stuff up the jaws (tear off the serrations) on these cheap lever rivet guns and shouldn't really be used. I've done hundreds with mine OK, but have always had that in the back of my mind. It's interesting how the rivet nails differ in break off loading with type and brand. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob. Haven't got a pop riveter, but I won't forget that tip when I buy one. Cheers Tony
Wow. No pop rivetter. Unbelieeevable. Magic machine Tony. Cheers Rob
My preference is for the design that uses 2 equal-length arms that open and close in unison, in a bellows-like action. My brand even has a little cup to catch the ejected shafts. These designs work well because you are using your arm strength rather than hand strength to break off the rivet shaft. The only downside is that you need more clearance to position the tool so it's not ideal for riveting in confined spaces.
I've seen those guns being used by professionals that do lots of large rivets. Quite a few options available. Cheers Rob
Great Tip Rob ! Thanks That Definitely Will Work ! Cheers To You As Always !
It sure works Wayne. Just be sure to fit cheater bars that go the full length of the hand grip section, otherwise it may bend or break something. Cheers Rob
I had a feeling that was what you were going to do Rob 🙂 Good tip, simple and effective. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Alan. Makes life a little easier. I only did the video after my Bro Inlaw commented on how well the hack worked after I told him. So it must be worth sharing :) Cheers Rob
Works for me Rob, now if only I didn't keep making things out of my cheater tubes. Lol
Hi Jon. Cheater bars have that magic quality other pipes don't have ;) They have a special place in my workshop. Cheers Rob
You're a mind reader, Rob. I was just buying another pop riveter tonight at the very moment you posted this video.
What type are you intending to get ?
It's a craftsman with a swivel head, and accepts three sizes of rivets. @@Xynudu
Good tip Rob. I have had that issue before when I was riveting security window stays with steel rivets (harder for the burglars to break steel rivets than aluminum rivets). The break off pressure for the nail is a lot more with steel rivets.
I have never seen these types of small pop rivet guns with long handles. Maybe there is a market for them if they can be made cheap enough?
Hi Jon. I have seen long handled much heavier duty versions of this type being used by professional sheet metal workers (as big as long handled lopping shears). Definitely a better option for extended use. I had never thought to extend the handles until now and had just struggled on through the years. It makes a lot of sense to use longer handles. It doesn't put any more loading on the rivet gun, it just makes it a lot easier for the operator to apply the same pressure. So I don't see it doing any harm. Cheers Rob
There are bigger units that would be able to take the force thats needed for the bigger rivets. I personally would not use cheater bars, those cheaper ones do break easily. And yes, i do have both. One will also do rivet nuts.
A pop rivet guru did tell me once that the large rivets are not recommended for these guns (even though they are made to take them) as it can damage the three serrated gripping jaws in the nose. I've done hundreds of large rivets with this gun and never had an issue, apart from the force needed to be applied through the regular handles. Cheers Rob
If you want to try some 'hard to snap off' rivets, try the ones made of monel metal. I used to have to use them on the yacht mast/boom for their corrosion resistance. They're the worst I ever used with a gun like that.
Nice hack. But maybe if you are doing a lot of this you should look into a Tong Riveter
Thank you, that was riveting entertainment.
Yeah, life in the workshop can be like that at times ;) Cheers Rob
Handy tip...except in a confined space.
Yeah, you might have to come in through the window ;)
I did this with a nutsert tool and managed to break it! I scored a Lazy-Tong Rivet gun, much easier
My Bro Inlaw has one of those concertina guns. He recons it's good, but doesn't seem to use it as often as the lever type, for whatever reason. Cheers Rob
does this hack work with stainless rivets? who cares really. We are in the 21st centuary Milwalke has a battery powerd one
It should work with any rivet of a size the gun can handle. All this does is apply the same pressure, but make it easier for the operator to do. Cheers Rob