Battery follow up + Spot welder upgrade!
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- Опубліковано 29 бер 2022
- In this video I'm addressing some adjustments to the 15Ah Parkside battery, most of them were suggested by all of you, so thanks for the helpful feedback! :)
As a bonus I have some footage of me building a extra large battery pack out of 18650 cells I have laying around for years that have extremely low capacities (700mah - 1200) In this application they're great and I can now leave my car battery in my vehicle whenever I'm deciding to use the spot-welder 😅
BATTERY STL FILES ON THINGIVERSE:
www.thingiverse.com/solipsfil...
or
Buy the 3D print @ my store!
www.etsy.com/nl/listing/12110...
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I just made an Etsy page where you can buy the printed parts for this build!:
www.etsy.com/nl/listing/1211082739/3d-printed-15ah-parkside-battery-as-seen?ref=listings_manager_grid
Whoa, I am all aboard the hugemongous battery train! Nice work
It'd be good idea to perform load test with 20A current draw and check with thermal camera, if there aren't any hot spots, which would indicate bad spot welding.
glad you made the changes i suggested on the group
it makes a difference on the long term and cells will stay balanced for a lot longer
Good use for the copper, i use copper grounding connectors for 18650 projects.
Cool video's!! but, thing to mention; I don't fully agree about the extra fuse to the BMS. Ye the battery is capable of delivering a higher amount of current, but the current is a result of the load, which is the motor, which is rated at x amps. If the current consumption is higher the BMS is there to cut off the BMS to not only protect the battery cells but also the wiring to the motor and the motor itsself. In case of a MOSFET failure inside the BMS the fuse could blow to prevent heating up the motor or a fire as a result of a current too large. Now with a fuse that is much larger you increase the level of safety interruption. You should not want that.
If the fuse blows due to higher current peaks as the internal resistance of the battery is likely to be smaller due to the increased amount of parallel cells you could try switching to a fuse that has a slower blow rate. - however, I also feel that this is a DIY project so strictly following battery design practices isn't necessary. My comment is for educational purposes only :) keep on the amazing work!
Thanks for this detailed explanation and positive feedback!
I agree that I probably went a bit too much with this 30A on top of the Parkside fuse, probably compromising the ability to protect the bms and tool too much. I'm going to switch the fuse to a 7.5A one just giving it that little extra so it won't blow as easily but still hopefully keeping most of the safety features of the original board :)
My 10Ah DeWALT batteries have fuses.
Hi everyone,
Some people pointed out that the 30A fuse would be a bit too much to reinforce the standard Parkside fuse, I'd suggest putting a 5A or 7.5A car fuse as a reinforcement to the original one, giving it that little extra resilience just so it won't blow but still has it's safety value if something were to short out by accident.
Thanks all for watching!
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
just found your channel from thingyverse browsing. glad im here subbed
Awesome spot welder you made! 👍👍
Thanks! :)
Just fyi, I beg to differ on solder not sticking to car fuses, I decided in all my wisdom after shunt modding my Zero 10X to do a botchy job to make sure the fuzes never blew, I literally just soldered a 9AWG wire between the two halves after melting away half the plastic at the top. Have not had a problem and I've definitely gone well above the 35Amps they're rated at for long periods, even managed to hit OC protect on the bms.
Regardless, putting in a connector means you can replace on the fly, that battery could deliver more than 30a easily.
Man youre making me want to rip apart the mountain of batteries I have here, finally ordered an external bag for my 10X so I have to make my mind up whether I want to go faster or longer, kinda want to do both though haha.
And you have made yourself a backup car battery 😂
If nothing else it’ll come handy to jumpstart the main battery
I think you could use a bench power supply and some super capacitors to power the spot welder too.
Other great video. Nice work!
Amazing work : Subscribed :)
Very nice material, very nicely structured video , keep up the good work , I would definetly donate to you if I ended up using your work sometime
Great work. Do you think you can do a video on your computer/3d printer/equipment? I noticed on a previous video that you had cell phones on your desk, were you using Samsung DEX for your projects?
Can you try and make a pack with flat cells like those used on cell phones?
i was just about to ask if u had to tear ur car battery out again 😂😂
Haha, luckily that's a thing of the past now 😆
can you please make a video about repairing the bms board because I'm having a very hard time repairing it
Hello! Good video! Where can I buy the welding machine? It looks like DIY but I'm interested in the parts
Have you ever tried doing the copper nickel sandwhich method with your spot welder?
I think that you can solder the legs of a car fuse, but first you need to sand the legs. I never done it with that kind of fuse, but with some other elements (Li-ion cells or batteries). They might be coated with a material that solder doesn't stick to. I use a metal file. Works like a charm.
This. You need to take the anti rust coating off first.
This is the same for a lot of different things. This is actually part of why a spot welder is preferred when messing with batteries like he does. You can solder to a battery end, same as the fuse you have to sand it. Spot welder is just easier and faster.
I would like to see you charge the 18650 battery;)
It's not quite the same, and wouldn't be anywhere near as portable, but have you considered making an adapter that would allow you to hook up the tool to an eBike battery?
Bosch has a battery they call the PowerTube, which is available in a 750 Wh version. It's a 36 volt battery making it a ~20.1 Ah battery at 36 volt or ~40 Ah at 18 volt.
It's not particularly portable though, as it's 485 x 85 x 65 mm and weighs in at 4.4 kg. But it could make for a fun little experiment.
What is the practical run time on a string trimmer?
hi, if i would like to modify a 12v 2ah parkside battery, the cells i should use from how many amps of discharge at least must be? I had thought about Samsung 30Q 3000mah and have 15A do you think they are okay?
hello, could you design a housing for 10 21700 cells with the inscription 8ah
how do you safely charge the massive battery pack?
Nice.
Thx! :)
Can you print up a Milwaukie 15ah case
😄😄😄bien por tu video estimado olo una recomendacion ese fusible no te trabaja ya que as soldado las terminal en el mismo punto de contacto esta solo de a... debes de considerar que fluya la corriente por el fusible si en caso ubiera una sobre carga o corto el suble aga su trabajo....
Okay maybe a stupid question here. What kind of charger do you use to charge the 72, 18650 batteries now that they are all soldered together so you can keep using it to spot weld?
I change everything with my Imax B6 charger to 12.6v @ 6A. Works perfectly :)
@@Solipsfilm thank you for your quick reply. I too have been collecting lots of 18650 and have been doing all my repairs and new builds with solder. Just saw your video last night and went,🤦♂️what a great idea. I may try also using a starter solenoid. Thank you again!!!!!
ehmm ... putting two fuses in parallel without calculation is risky :D. You have practically no fuse right now in your battery now.
They seem to blow a bit too easily, saw a lot of people with blown out fuses. 30A fuse was probably a bit overkill though, you're right 😅 Would rather use a 5A one giving it that little extra resilience :) Or is that too a bad idea in your opinion?
@@Solipsfilm I understand Intention. But always try to be careful with lithium cells. If you wanna a different fuse replace it completely according to the datasheet of your cells and BMS. Feel free to use automotive fuses at 18v. Chose any you want ... just don't assume their value with parallel configuration. It is too complex math I don't understand. I just know to not do it :D
Hello, from the designer of the 9.0ah extension
Oh hi! Thanks for the awesome design, been using this battery a lot 👌🏻
What software did you design it with?
@@Solipsfilm it's a pleasure, I use fusion 360
Very nice project, can you add in thingiverse the files for 18650 9amps version? it will be grate
It will be grape!
Hi, yes I can (I didn't design this one myself):
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4688455/files
What exactly that spot welder you bought does? Can you actually spot weld directly, only with battery and pins?
You need a 12v battery connected to it, it detects whenever the pins are both connected to the nikkel strip and connects the big battery for a brief moment making a spot-weld:)
@@Solipsfilm So basically you can spot weld without it just need to be careful.
You'll get super inconsistent welds without it.. It connects the battery way shorter than you could ever do by hand I'm afraid 😅 also, it's super cheap so I'd just buy one of the welders, they go for €15 if I remember correctly.
It's very important however that your battery can deliver enough amps for a good weld though :)
Hi ... Can the electronics from the 2Ah parkside battery withstand, say, 6 Ah without changing the components on the board ???
So far so good, used it a lot over the last two months and still works like a charm. 💪🏻💪🏻
@@Solipsfilm Thanks a lot for the reply !!!
La tua da 9 ah pesa meno dell'originale da 8 ah 👌🏻👏🏻
Oh, interesting to know! :)
Where can i inquire for u to make me 1
Ik zou die wonky aan elkaar gebraden 18650 mega pack toch maar in de schuur bewaren ;)
Lekker gewerkt pik.
Haha good idea 😅 Hopelijk staat de brandverzekering me bij in geval van brand als ze al die Li-ion cellen hier vinden.. 😆
Next time before you spotweld remove the electronic board. i burned one because of that mistake.
yet there is no solution to charge them dispite from mains power,
Id like to have a usb charger that would boost up instead of using mains
I have not found any solution so far
I think I get what you're thinking where would you get your 5v USB power from the time it would take to charge using 5v 2A is why people don't do this
@@colinhamer6506 yeah 10 watts isnt that fast but its something
@@michaelduffy9853 is there a reason you want to use 5v what power source do you have in mind
I think it's a good idea for another project, making a USB C charger for these batteries using the"power delivery" standard. This can (if I remember correctly) delivery up to 100 watt at 20v. I made my own camera battery that charges this way two years ago, it's great. Maybe I'll make a video about it in the future 👌🏻
@@colinhamer6506 I have a few small solar cells I could use to charge them
you could of used the powersupply from the 3d printer
My Ender 3 runs on 24v and this welder uses 12v. I also print a lot so I wouldn't want to disconnect my printer everytime I have to spotweld 😅 I do have a 450w ATX power supply laying around that might also work but now at least I can use these old batteries, that makes me happy 😆
you can see by the round heat marks around the welds that your welder is seriously underpowered.
Hi
Do u sell all ur 3D printed parts?
The 3D files are free to download on thingiverse 😊
Or do you mean if I print and ship the parts?
@@Solipsfilm the file is not available anymore
@@correia707 There was something weird wrong with Thingiverse, I re-uploaded the files and should be downloadable again 👍🏻
I'm planning on setting up an Etsy page soon where I will sell the printed parts 😊
Darn.... How about trying to start your car with that pack???? ;-)
Haha, starting the car would probably work indeed, maybe I'l give it a try just for the fun of it 😅😂
@@Solipsfilm yessss please, lithium will kick that old lead acid to the curb.
Take it from someone living in a camper qnd who has extensively tested the performance of lead acid vs lithium ion in real world and adverse conditions.
Lithium ion is much better
why not try to make one made up of LiFePo4 batteries? its more efficient and much lighter
because he have enough old batteries?
aliexpress есть готовые варианты
Sir,i am amaoe mobile phone repair tools factory,may i cooperate with you?
2:26 - that's not a fuse
Sorry but this really is the fuse 😅 Look up some video's, they blow open when too much current is drawn, when fixed the pack works again:)
Sir i am amaoe mobile phone repair tools factory,i want to have a cooperation with you, may i cooperate with you?
Just buy proper ribbons?
Doesn't matter how old they are...it's extremely dangerous. Install a BMS on that big battery pack or you will burn your house down, because they will EXPLODE!!!
The BMS keeps the cells leveled when charging but I charge this pack with a IMAX B6 that has balanced charging built in. (Via balancing leads that I attached) As for the under voltage protection a BMS offers, I just keeping an eye on the voltage (I can read that on the welder itself).
@@Solipsfilm OK. But a BMS is also discharge all the cells equally that's how cells lasts longer which is also important.
Most of the time Some of the cells at the very end will not discharge or discharge rapidly then others which is very bad and cause permanent damage for a battery pack. And you can not read individual cells status on your welder can you?
But it's your choice. I would still suggest a bms for safe charging and discharging, because i faced the same problem once.
@@Mr.Thanos_ "BMS is also discharge all the cells equally"
A BMS does not do that at all. What they *can* do is stop current flow from the whole pack if a given parallel group falls below a configured value, but it won't cause all the groups to be used at the same rate.
An active balancer (extremely rare in BMS boards) could work to keep the groups in sync, but that's likely way overkill for this usage. OP is going to be fine.