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Creality CR10 V3 How to Hot end upgrade modification Simple is better for sure Amazing results
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2021
- In this video I make a fantastic upgrade to the hot end of this machine. It has multiple benefits. It's more serviceable than ever and it turns out it is quieter when all said and done.
Follow the links below for all the components and items used in this video
E3D Fan mount upgrade on thingiverse
www.thingivers...
Creality CR10 V3 3D printer
amzn.to/2PIiVmJ
Creality Ender 3 V2 3D printer
amzn.to/3sZurbD
IFIXIT Mako driver tool kit
amzn.to/2Pw3jSY
12 Pieces Mini Digital Electronic Temperature Humidity Thermometer LCD amzn.to/3qcAIQ5
Metric bolt kit
amzn.to/3c598P4
Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing and cutter kit
amzn.to/3ekHPTH
Mini USB Light Lamp
amzn.to/38dyglo
Yellow PLA
amzn.to/3bZnLmI
Red PLA
amzn.to/38hzaNN
GoPro Hero 8 Action camera
amzn.to/3qlxDMZ
Temp tower on thingiverse
www.thingivers...
Email address
rm3dcreations@gmail.com
Yup. I'm here because in the process of cleaning out my extruder parts went flying. Basically this just moved up the timeline of replacing this pile of junk with something that simply works.
For those following along, regular cleaning out of the extruder and replacing the PTFE in the hotend is *not* normal. Don't get me wrong, your insight, mods, and fixes are very valuable - if you want to stick with the poorly designed factory setup. I'll be either replacing it with my old TronXY A-10 hotend which was abnormal in that it was the one part that never messed up on that printer, or installing a all metal hotend with a new extruder.
Thanks for your fixes, they look quite impressive.
thanks for watching
Finally got around to printing this new upgrade. I thought I would let everyone know you can use this with an ABL, BLTouch in my case. You don't need to have it at a 45, it fits fine at a 90 and allows for the ABL. I'm testing it now with polycarbonate carbon fibre filament @ 260. See how it holds up. The stock one melted even with the silicone sock.
so you used the standard creality mount and there was no obstruction? thanks!
@@andyyuen I just did what the video showed but turned it square to the original mount and it works fine and clears the BLTouch. Check the wires for the hotend, I pointed them to the back plate/mount and there is enough clearance for them.
Good to know
Newbie here. Love the video.
I just left all the screws that keep the front portion connected to the back portion out ! 😂😂 then you just snap it in place and no problem.
I did this and it worked great for a few months, but for some reason I'm now getting heat creep and can't figure out why
Great video!
Printed your shroud in ABS and will mount it next time I need to service the printer. Replaced the heat break with a Copperhead heat break, and reused the heat block. Works like a charm, and haven't had to service it since. Also very happy to hear that the shroud will work with my CRTouch. I assume it will, since Scott Jacobs (below) confirmed the BLTouch worked.
Your videos are very likeable and entertaining to follow. Keep up the good work!
Great video, the puppies apparently want to co-star on the channel!
Yes they do, may have to show the world a couple of them
Great video! I got my CR-10 v3 a couple of weeks ago and swapped the nozzle for a 0.8, since then it's dragging like crazy across the print! Flow it's right, e-steps at 100mm are fine... I want to love this machine but it's being a pain! Thanks for sharing your experience with this promising machine!
I have to tell you how much I appreciate this, I have a V3 being delivered today and have been prepping my upgrades for it. I purchased a refurbed machine from Comgrow so I'll be pulling it all apart anyway to check everything, I'll be using this when I put it all back together. Great attention to detail, nice to see someone besides me using calipers! I purchased this specifically for long duration prints and this is the best/mod/upgrade/fix out of the box I've seen to date except for maybe venting ender 3 v2 Psu cover. You my friend have a new subscriber!
Welcome aboard and thanks for watching
i love this shroud mod. The factory shroud was way over engineered. I have no idea who though that was good and let it pass for production. Its easy to maintain the printer head and change out nozzles and clear jams.
I have a CR10V3 printer with direct drive. What retraction distance do you use? I am using 0.9mm and I am getting string when I print multi-prints in a single print job.
hands down the simplest and easy to work of any fan shrowd. No extra parts necesary, just reuse the original screws. Just a mention, this needs to be printed out of ABS or high temp resin on a resin printer. With PETG i experienced sagging of the fan shrowd and had to improvise with a copper wire to hold it in position. Been printing great with it since.
Though i would like to request to @Rm3d Creations that he upload the step file for this to be able to more readyly modify this and add accelerometers, cr touch, etc
I converted my CR10 V3 to run RRF on an SKR2 and now i have WIFI, web interface and better quality printing by using the stock creality slicer settings. Now that RRF3.4 has been released i want to add an accelerometer to do resonance compensation and see how much it can be pushed.
I'm picking up a cr10 v3 today from Marketplace. Hopefully you will show more mods. Thanks for your videos.
Not a whole lot of mods for the CR10, it's pretty good out of the box.,
I like that you have a ESD matt on the table!
Great design
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us :-)
Thanks for watching!
Does this mount leave room for the Bl Touch? Tired of the disassembly to clear. Moving to an all hot end.
You make this a lot of fun to watch.
Thank you and thanks for watching
What's that black gill print u have on your x or y axis stepper? Edit*** actually the extruder motor
Puppy power! LOL - Thanks a lot from Spain dude.
I'm trying something to fix the dragon to the extruder base. But until it comes (the metal thing for fixing under the Titan) this will do the trick instead.
You are doing fenomenal job in there, for sure.
Glad I could help! thanks for watching and commenting.
Any idea why my Bowden tube is smoking and smells like it's burning? I checked and it's not below the hot end.
Love the video! I’m fairly new to printing, and it’s great to get such detailed info! I also was wondering if you have any ideas for how to safely put the filament spool next to the printer or even under it, I am in the midst of making an enclosure and I would love to be able to put the spool underneath it in a cabinet. Let me know know if you think this would be possible
Since it feeds from the top I would say underneath would be a challenge. Put it on top of the enclosure and feed it through a hole. The enclosure doesn't need to be air tight.
Nice job sir. and i like your bumble bee clock. keep at it and have fun.
Thanks, will do! thanks for watching and commenting
does not melt in abs print?
Is there still space to mount a BLTouch using the two screw holes in the mount plate (behind the black fan) as intended in the original design?
Another great vid Micheal. You're still a genius lol
Thank you kindly, thanks for watching and commenting
So the reel handling stuff on your printers is interesting. Where did you get that?
is it a three pin or four pin 40mm fan
can i use this if i use a hotend mound instead of the titan extruder to mount it?
Do you know what size are the screws that hold the hot end? Are they the same as the screw at the top?
Would petg also work ? As pla looks like it'll warp
What is the run out sensor setup you have mounted on top?
It's just one that was on the machine that I relocated. Thanks for watching
Great video Great upgrade
I have a question sir
Can work with BLTouch ?
I didn't mod mine to have bl touch. Wouldn't be hard to mod it but I don't have a bl touch to go by.
I have the CR-10 v3 with a BLTouch, will thee be room to mount the BLTouch after adding this fan mount?
no there is not. one could be designed on to it.
I had this same question. Someone (smarter than me) should design that.
I also want that option but I have no idea how to design 3d things let alone make it work with it lol
Seems like mine is slicing like crap and prints horriblly soo wonder if its the new cura version i havent downloaded yet
give it a try, thanks for watching
What bed do you have on your cr10 v3? Thanks for the video. Printing this now
Thought the V3 was a direct drive that didn't use a bowden tube?
it is a direct drive. Doesn't mean that it doesn't have a short bowden tube.
Another great video Sir.
Glad you enjoyed it
do you print the part with ABS or PLA?
No one has a video on this printer on how to flash klipper to it which I think this printer would highly benefit from it
I would have to check it out.
You ever try a bi-metal heat break?
I have not.
Muy V3 makes a clicking noise in the retractions I lower them to 1 ando 35 mm/s but keeps making the noise
You may have play in your bowden tube.
I also have clocking noise on some retractions but not all of them. The shape of the filament that comes out looks okay but not perfect, I wonder now!
Good thinking, thanks for sharing
I very much loved what you do I'm learning from you a lot. I have Artillery Genius - can you talk about her a little? (If you have one such)
I have not had any interaction with the Artillery Genius
Love your videos! Just out of curiosity... when you say you remix a design, what program do you use to do that?
Fusion 360
I just purchased one CR 10 V3 because I have right now an Anet ET4X that is causing me more troubles than printing. I still no priting since one month because I didn't know what's happening with the layer fan (only worked one week & bye) because I replaced everything from the printer and still no working. I just installed Marlin but the problem still there. I will going to sell it because I don't want to spend more money & time to this printer.
Interesting
Can you share with me your retraction setting for PLA you have with your machine? I am trying to get mine dialed in and haven't had any luck but we have the same machine so I thought you could help
5.0mm retract works well on mine.
Awesome video! Question, have you replaced the heating block for the v3 before? I have no luck in finding one because of that bushing and small screw… any recommendations?
Follow this link amzn.to/3HMo2rv
im wondering if this can be used with the bl touch and e3d v6 hotend upgrade
others are saying yes.
Hi I have the cr 10v3 too I need the heater block cant find right one
I'm sure microswiss has one.
How is the pla holding up to the temps, I was always told to use petg or abs for hotend upgrades. Also is that the stock hotend?
I have 6 machines running with PLA and they are holding up just fine.
Do you have the links for the fans and the step down thing for voltage?
Trying to relocate them on Thingiverse and I'm not having any luck.
Hello, I'm curious if you have had any heat creep issues with the hot end design for this V3? Reason I ask is it seems that Creality is still using the 2 screws to mount the heat block to the Heat sink. Historically on the Ender 3 series a lot of guys removed those screws as a result.
No issues as long as your fan is running.
awesome video! does this upgrade interfere with the BLtouch upgrade for auto leveling? i really want to do his upgrade for asa printing if possible
This change does not have BL touch.
I am looking to upgrade to a large format printer. I want something quite. What would you recommend?
The CR10 I would recommend. One of the best volumes for the price.
And with the upgrade will a BL touch fit
It could be modified to fit. I don't use BL touches on any of my printers so I didn't tweak it to use one.
You can remove the screw without taking the whole thing apart. On the creality website, it has you remove the two back ones, and then the four around the plate. You can move that piece of the assembly slightly enough to get your tool in there. It's not the best way, I'd imagine, but I don't think I did any stripping of the screw head.
That maybe true, but, now I only have to remove the screws that hold the part on that I am trying to remove. Funny thing as well. So far I haven't had to take it apart since the upgrage. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat, no doubt it's a sweet set up.
@@Michaelinthebackyard Oh I totally dig what you have going on here. I'm also very envious because I'm still having huge issues getting a print to finish, heck, even start. I'm currently having to disassemble mine because filament got stuck in the bowden tube, and now I have forgotten where I placed my replacement piece lol.
That's not good. Hope you get it up and going.
Great video, thanks for sharing, any tips on setting a cura slicer profile, since there isn’t one available for the v3 just yet, I heard you have to drop the retraction a bit, do you have any other tips?
I've had this printer since this video and used Cura until I found out the newest PrusaSlicer has a great profile for the CR10-V3! Even though my custom profile worked in Cura the PrusaSlicers profile blew mine away in Cura. I haven't used Cura since.
@@ryand76 interesting! i might just have to try it out
Sounds like a plan.
Have you had any issues with the lack of dual Z endstops / timed Z? One of the first issues I had is that the gantry moved out of level when the steppers were off, resulting in the nozzle etching the first layer into the plate. Looking at adding a timing belt, but a concern is that the rods are supposed to be freefloating at the top. Adding an endstop is apparently off the table because for some reason they're running both off the same driver.
In the meantime on the lookout for an "all metal" heat break.
Cheers for the video. Looks like a good upgrade and each step was illustrated clearly. Often ease of access / service is overlooked (or intentionally made difficult) these days.
My z's have stayed synced up so far. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Is there an reason why you don’t use the Filament sensor?
It didn't work with the Octoprint. I think there are some patches now that let it work with it. I have only had one print failure in 5 months that the sensor could have saved my print.
Hey there! Love your videos! I noticed you have put heatsinks on the bottom of your stepper motor, mine get pretty roasty, have you found that it helps any?
Oh yes, drops them about 10°C
I see you now have 2 Cr 10 v3s, did you consider the Cr 10 pro v2 or the Ender 5 plus? What made you go with the v3? What do you think of the Ender 3 max? What is the best large frame printer from Creality in your opinion?
I don't have a good opinion on others you mention. Some day I may own more of them. I have a CR30 on order coming in May but I may get another before it arrives.
@@Michaelinthebackyard Ok thanks, keep the videos coming!
That Bowden tube must go a fair way down there to burn up like that either that or it has really bad heat creep, did you have the same problem with the other printer when it was stock?
I did not.
Does capricorn solved tube overheating problem inside hotend? Great video 👍
Yes it does
Thank you for the awesome videos and printables for upgrades. The v3 seems to have virtually no support. Have you thought about going with an all metal hot end?
I have put a micro swiss on one of my machines and it is fantastic.
That blue tube what material you use?
capricorn tubing follow the link to the best tube amzn.to/3GaqW9c
why no on try to put airflow from biger fann with tube?
you reduce weight on the axis and add more airflow. The fan must have good airpresure not CFM.
interesting
I've printed this a few times now and for some reasons it breaks everytime i put it into the new piece. Any ideas? Should I increase the size a smidge?
You need to print it flat with the extended part with the hole in the end flat to the build plate. Not standing up. Look at the layer lines, length way on the mount is strong and will not break when snapping in the heatsink. You don't need much support, I use 87% Everywhere in Cura and there is just enough.
@@scottjacobs4816 OK I will give this a shot. Was thinking that might be the case. Thanks
Yep, he is correct.
Not sure why everyone uses noctua fans, they dont blow enough air to cool properly. They also run hotter than the stock fans.
Because they are quiet and the move enough air. All mine are working just fine. thanks for watching
can you still use a bltouch with this mod? thanks.
Nope sorry, Thanks for watching
Hey, how is the cr10v3 with printing tpu? I have an anycubic i3 mega and it really struggles.. im considering getting ither the cr10v3 or a prusa.
I tried TPU once so far and I think it will work fine but I need to spend more time with it.
I printed an entire roll with my V3 and it works amazing!
Does that mod prevent a BL Touch from being fitted to the carriage?
The only thing I don't like about the original design is that the air ducts split in 2 when you take it apart makes you wonder how much air flow you're losing for the small gaps. I'm in the middle of doing a revision of the original fan duct that the fan ducts aren't in 2 pieces prolly got 2 weeks maybe 3 till I'm finished
@@whatif8741 okay, so about that bl touch 🤣
People are telling me it will still work.
I'm surprised your Bowden tube is in such bad shape, what kind of temperature have you been printing at?
I'm making sure to stay below 237°C (for tests), hopefully it'll be good enough.
Thanks for showing all this, I'll likely upgrade to a capricorn tube soon and check the length at the same time.
Very useful 👍
245 c is the highest I have gone.
@@Michaelinthebackyard ah then it's right the point where a standard bowden tube can degrade, especially when pre-heating or printing at low flow rate.
I didn't expect it would be that bad tho.
Thanks for answering!
Great video. You have an STL for that camera holder?
I'll see if I can wrangle it up and put it on thingiverse then put a link in the description
Can you upgrade the heatbreak? I read the hotend is a e3d v6 clone?
I'm not sure.
I'm trying to work out what the heck it is too.
i cant use my bl touch with this can i?
People are saying you can.
Do you have to do this or what
You certainly don't have to do this. When you have to take your print head apart a couple of times you will want to do this.
Thanks for this video - going to need to do this at some point soon. What is that spool setup you have on the CR10's? I've had trouble with the filament sensor pulling on the spool too . . . do you happen to know the thread size of the 2 tapped holes that the CR Touch is mounted on too? Thanks for all.
The holes for the CR Touch are M3.
thanks for the help
Very cool. The design of the whole stock assembly is rotten
yeppers
Mike I need you to contact me on the winnings I have not received a box
You need to provide me your mailing information, rm3dcreation@gmail.com and then I can ship out.
You do not have to remove the entire assembly. Creality shows how to do it in their “How to clean CR-10 V3 nozzle throat” video. The video has been out for 8 months.
good to know. I still like my new set up.
I have a dog I love dearly… But I trained him. Sometimes it’s not the dogs that need training… It’s the humans.
Ok
So mad about this! They simply swapped out a problematic plastic idler arm for a metal one and called that an "all metal extruder kit". People like me come along and think theyre getting an all metal hot end or at LEAST an all metal extruder and therye getting neither. Mine wont print reliably above 240C (which is everything I need to print) so its basically junk to me. The hot end isnt an E3D. Its a clone with a weird short heat sink so there are no easy "drop-in" options Im aware of. Its starting to look like major surgery at a minimum and if I have to buy a whole new printer it will NOT be anything from Creality!
I just left all the screws that keep the front portion connected to the back portion out ! 😂😂 then you just snap it in place and no problem.