T-20 torx bit size, true a little difficult to get to - the tool I used was a screwdriver handle onto a right angle adapter (usually used for impact drivers) and a 3 inch magnetic bit holder with the T-20 bit. Took only a few minutes once the door and motor were aligned. Thanks for the video, great help to see what I had to get to.
Un did the pin and tapped it back in and tapped on the actuator with a wrench and it started working just as someone suggested. Ford wanted $238 just to diagnose the issue. Thanks for posting the repair!
Great video it really helps. I just replaced mine and it was NOT as easy as it looks in this video. You have to be a contortionist to do it. I ended up removing the panel below the wheel, and the metal panel under that. I'm so happy to have floor and defrost again after 2 years with it stuck on panel mode.
All I did was disconnect the wiring harness to look at it and order a new one. Then plugged it back in and it changed the selection to what I wanted. What an awesome video. Thanks for your help
My 2016 doing this right now... hopefully this'll fix it...thank you,my face is on fire 🔥 UPDATE: it did fix it...and as someone else said the Dorman 604-288 is the correct fit for the 2016 xlt model...ebay 20 bucks ,local may have it as well ....make sure you don't drop a screw behind the plastic underneath where the heat controls are..it may take a few minutes to find it, otherwise this is a 10 minute fix...thanks again.
It's a bandage solution that probably won't last for the long term, but if you're in a pinch, that will work. But the part is so cheap that you might as well change it out once you have the time to do it.
Thanks so much for this video! This matched my problem exactly and was the perfect fix. You saved me both time and money, and I can't thank you enough.
Great video, makes it nice and easy! Funny these are still going bad after decades of the same problem, changed this same part on my brothers 1990 crown vic. I forgot how bad ford's break all the time. Glad my daily driver is a toyota Lol!!!
LOVE the Mechanic videos that edit out actually loosening the screw “it comes out easy” and pulling the part out, again “comes out easy”. Then the part magically appears thanks to editing. Did it work? I don’t know yet but this always cracks me up. 😂😀
Good video. 604-288 is the correct part number. When I first put it in nothing changed until I removed it and turned the truck on while connected and manually adjusted the gears to match the vent that the controls showed and then fit it in place. Works perfect now.
@@hayer444 Exactly. When I initially installed the actuator, the vents were still blowing in the wrong orientation. I unscrewed the actuator, while still plugged in, rotated the white gear until the air was coming out of the vents that my controls showed it should be coming out of, and then screwed the actuator in place.
Hey carnal te agradezco mucho estuve batallando mucho quitando y poniendo el actuador y no funcionaba asta q hice lo que dices y que perfecto,muchas gracias 👍
Perfect video and explanation on how to install. My 2014 F-150 XLT 4x4 started clicking loudly when I would switch from defrost to panel vents. I ended up removing my gas pedal to get at the actuator a little easier (only 3 bolts - all 1/2 inch socket). Removal and install was about an hour. I agree with some other comments re: it being a little difficult to get to. I’m 6’1” / 215lbs and it was all I could do to contort myself and get to the part. Once I found a spot, I was good to go. Save me several hundreds of dollars. Thanks brother!
I went to the module beside the foot feed on my 2017 f150 and wiggled the wire harness along with tapping the module. After doing that my front window defrost and floor heat came back on. Try this first
Awesome stuff man. I have been looking everywhere online for 2015 and up F150s with this same issue and couldn’t find a single thing until your vid. All info and vids were for prior models and those have a different blower housing/plenum. I figured it might be the same, but I wanted to be sure. My wife works at a dealership so I get discount prices on oem ford stuff, so I wanted to knock it out myself. My 2016 just started doing this a day ago, stuck on face only also. 112,000 miles on it and drive it in the oilfield so not mad about the minor issue. Could be a whole ac unit swap like my coworkers gm trucks with less than 100k miles ha. Thank you for posting this. Short and to the point. 👍
is that unit also the temp mode actuator.......if not where is it? mine by its own will changes temp..usuall hot to cold turn it off then back on to get hot again most of the time
@@paggeau No it is not that same one, if you have dual zone climate (separate passenger & driver) The drivers side control is easier then the passenger control. It would be located on the passenger floor board bottom of the heater box. If however the passenger side control is malfunctioning it is a 6.5 hour repair.
Replaced all 3 actuators on my 2013 F150 5.0 twice now. Stuck blowing out just the vents again after...REPLACING THEM AGAIN JUST NOW!! FIRST FORD TRUCK AND DEFINITELY MY LAST!! JUNK!! I'VE REPLACED EVERYTHING IN THIS TRUCK BESIDES PROBABLY THE WINDOWS. GRRRRRR!!
You're my freaking hero!!!!!!!! I've been searching online for that location for weeks. Just found your video. Thank you so very much!!!!!!!! Is that napa part better than oem?
I have the same problem on my 2016 f150. It is a single zone climate system and the AC was barely coming out of the face but was blowing out of the defrost vent causing the windshield to condensate. I tried the dorman part but it was junk so I went OEM Ford and it was working great.
So guys is Dorman 604-288 the correct replacement part? I’ve seen a couple different part numbers in the comments. Just want to make sure. I appreciate the video and the help.
Just make sure the electrical pins on your new actuator are in the same position as the old one. All the actuators for Hvac on this vehicle look the same but the electric pins are in different positions
on my 2008 after installing the new one I have to remove 2 fuses from the fuse panel and then turn on the unit and it calibrates itself then after 30 sec I plug them fuses back in and turn it ion again and it finishes the calibration. Ford says this: 1. NOTE: The defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator can be accessed from underneath the LH side of the instrument panel. Disconnect the defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator electrical connector. 2. Remove the 3 defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator screws. 3. Remove the defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator. 4. NOTICE: The ignition key must be off when replacing the actuator. Energizing the actuator before installation will cause the part to become positioned incorrectly and proper orientation will be lost. Incorrect actuator operation will result. To install reverse the removal procedure. 5. NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration carry out the following steps. Remove Central Junction Box (CJB) fuse 13 and CJB fuse 5 for at least one minute. See: Fuse > Application and ID 6. NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds. Reinstall CJB fuse 13 and CJB fuse 5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct mode door actuator operation.
This part is way harder to get to than this video suggests. Be prepared to remove the lower dash panel and a metal plate held on by 4 10mm bolts w/blue locktite and flimsy trim tabs. Before screwing the new one on, connect the plug, turn truck on and push the vent button that matches wherever yours got stuck at. The new actuator should then align to the plastic gears in the vent system.
Hey change my out now when I hit the face vent it goes to the floor when I hit a dash vents it goes to the defrost it’s a oem actuator. Is there any procedure that I have to do
So this might be a dumb question, but I don't want to screw anything up on my truck by doing something I shouldn't, I've started to hear the ticking noise that could be a sign of this failure, is it going to hurt anything if I just disconnect the harness to diagnose the fault and confirm its with the actuator first before buying a new one?
2016 F150 : The OEM part would rotate outside of the housing but did not have enough energy when screwed in place. Replacing with the aftermarket part provided enough torque to rotate the gears.
I just replaced mine not to long ago it worked for about 2 days and now when it switches vent positions it’s will have an annoying clicking sounds for 5 seconds after switching positions
Sometimes my 2015 f150 doesn’t blow at the same volume when on max ac. I usually cut it off the back on again and it will blow at full volume again and get colder. Do you think the actuator could be my problem also
My problem is this, same truck. But the doors are outside just below the radiator. They open and then start clicking as they shut all the way but continue clicking (trying to shut). But the doors are closed. They seem to open up ok. I have not seen any videos on this as all the videos show the issue being inside. Is this the same issue as to Why their sticking?
I replaced the motor with a Motorcraft one and it's still blowing face. It moved from the start position to the face position and I can't get it to changr
I replaced my blend door actuator like you, and I’m getting air to the feet now, but all of buttons are out of whack! Any ideas on how to fix this or “calibrate” it?
Do you know if this is the same on a 2016? I think I have a similar problem, but mine is only blowing on my feet and not the face. Is there a different actuator somewhere else or is it the same?
Thanks for the video, I'm currently having this problem and have yet to fix it! Mine was stuck on face (vent) but now I'm having another issue with the driver side blowing cool while the passenger side is hot. I've read that the said you know it's the mode door because you can hear a clicking or knocking sound coming from down by the feet! My truck never made this noise and the controls stopped working! Should I focus on this part or do my issues lay elsewhere? Thanks for any replys!
Hi i have a question. My f150 2013 in driver side, even i change it to cold or hot it stays on slightly warm. Feels like the blend door is stuck but the passenger works fine. Tried to max the fan either of the side, it works. Is it the same as this video? Just replace the blend door actuator just below the steering wheel?
I can't understand your question? If you're asking if the temperature actuators are the same procedure, they may be similar. I am not sure of the locations at this time
After successfully replacing the actuator, my advise to you is . . . pay the $300 and have the mechanic do it! The part and required tools were $50 . . . 4 hours labor plus $60 for the chiropractor were not worth the pain and frustration. There's a TON this video doesn't tell you.
@@robertswiderii3508 I researched and it seemes like there can be some insulation that has fallen and is stopping the door itself from moving. To remove that insulation, you have to remove the middle piece by the cd player. Not to change anything, just to remove the insulation that has fallen. Let me see if I can put the link on here.
I did this and it still didn’t change the air flow from the panel to defrost or floor. I turned the gear and it slid in place. I put the the screws back and put the wire harness back. Nothing changed. Damn.
@@mt406mechanics thank you. I got in the truck a few hours later and now….when I put the air to the floor it goes up the Defrost. The Defrost setting goes to the floor. None of them go to the panel at more than 1/3 strength. So I’ll be taking it apart tomorrow and try to set it correctly. 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Do you know if there's a process to reset the thing's home position? It swung to defrost for me, but now the controls won't move it from there. Maybe need to pull a fuse or something.
Paul Phillips not to sound rude, but did you line up the correct notches for the gear? I don’t think it would slide in if you didn’t but I can see that being the case. I had to spin the gearing into the right position to get it to align correctly. Also, there’s a second actuator for these trucks that looks almost exactly like the one needed, except for the set position of the gear, which might cause it to get the effect your talking about. But again, it has 2 very small notches that need to align on the housing of the actuator for it to slide in.
vlcmhwk22 mine was keyed like you said, basically a hiccup in the tooth tooth pattern that forced it to only line up one way. Not sure what else to check, will keep researching. Thanks for the replies though!
@@seankelleher3843 I read that there's a reset procedure with pulling fuses but I've not tried it as I don't want to have to tear the dang thing apart again to get it back to dash if it rotated up to defrost again and got stuck again, also worried that not doing the fuse reset may have broken the replaced part.
You have got to be kidding? How in the hell do you get to that top screw? I can't just barely see it. Getting to is next to impossible without removing the dash!
You should consider renaming the video title. In this video you replace the blend door actuator NOT the mode door actuator, which requires removal of dash.
T-20 torx bit size, true a little difficult to get to - the tool I used was a screwdriver handle onto a right angle adapter (usually used for impact drivers) and a 3 inch magnetic bit holder with the T-20 bit. Took only a few minutes once the door and motor were aligned. Thanks for the video, great help to see what I had to get to.
Un did the pin and tapped it back in and tapped on the actuator with a wrench and it started working just as someone suggested. Ford wanted $238 just to diagnose the issue. Thanks for posting the repair!
Concise and to the point. Great explanation on how to replace the actuator, you just saved me $280 installation fee. Thank you!
I haven't replaced it yet but I feel confident after watching your video. Thank you!
Great video it really helps. I just replaced mine and it was NOT as easy as it looks in this video. You have to be a contortionist to do it. I ended up removing the panel below the wheel, and the metal panel under that. I'm so happy to have floor and defrost again after 2 years with it stuck on panel mode.
Thanks for the video! I used 604-290 part from Dorman. The instal on the 2016 f-150 was nearly identical
Thanks for the info. It works great on my 2016 platinum. I lowered the bottom panel under the steering wheel for easier access to the upper screw
All I did was disconnect the wiring harness to look at it and order a new one. Then plugged it back in and it changed the selection to what I wanted. What an awesome video. Thanks for your help
Thanks for this video! I have a 2015 Lariat that I replaced mine on. Bought a Dorman 604-288 for $23.99. It was cramped but got it done.
Thanks for that part #, the Ford part is FL3Z19E616C / Motorcraft YH1951. I have a '15 Lariat too.
My 2016 doing this right now... hopefully this'll fix it...thank you,my face is on fire 🔥
UPDATE: it did fix it...and as someone else said the Dorman 604-288 is the correct fit for the 2016 xlt model...ebay 20 bucks ,local may have it as well ....make sure you don't drop a screw behind the plastic underneath where the heat controls are..it may take a few minutes to find it, otherwise this is a 10 minute fix...thanks again.
😊 thank you for the hands on demo…very easy clean 1 hr job to replace…
I had this exact same issue on my 2015.. gave the actuator a few light taps with a wrench and it solved the issue.. thanks for posting!
So glad I saw your comment. Tapped it a few time and I’m back in business. Thanks!!
Tried this technique and it worked out great! Is yours still working without issues?
Same here! Very glad I saw this. Knocked on it a few times with my knuckles and it started working again immediately.
It's a bandage solution that probably won't last for the long term, but if you're in a pinch, that will work. But the part is so cheap that you might as well change it out once you have the time to do it.
Thanks for your video! I have been looking for a long time.
Thanks for the video. Pretty simple to change out. The bolts are a T-20 torx. And I used a Ford oem part. # is FL3Z-19E616-C.
Just the info I was looking for bless
Thanks so much for this video! This matched my problem exactly and was the perfect fix. You saved me both time and money, and I can't thank you enough.
Your welcome, please like the video and subscribe to thank me!
Thanks for the video. I just it helped me greatly. Just did an install and saved some money. 👍
Thank you this was a great video you were a huge help
This worked for me thank you my feet have been freezing!
I did use a lot more swear words to get the screws out.
Great video, makes it nice and easy! Funny these are still going bad after decades of the same problem, changed this same part on my brothers 1990 crown vic. I forgot how bad ford's break all the time. Glad my daily driver is a toyota Lol!!!
Thanks for sharing! Very helpful!
LOVE the Mechanic videos that edit out actually loosening the screw “it comes out easy” and pulling the part out, again “comes out easy”. Then the part magically appears thanks to editing.
Did it work? I don’t know yet but this always cracks me up. 😂😀
Good video. 604-288 is the correct part number. When I first put it in nothing changed until I removed it and turned the truck on while connected and manually adjusted the gears to match the vent that the controls showed and then fit it in place. Works perfect now.
So you removed the actuator and turned white wheel/gear with hand and checked which vent is blowing before inserting the new actuator?
@@hayer444 Exactly. When I initially installed the actuator, the vents were still blowing in the wrong orientation. I unscrewed the actuator, while still plugged in, rotated the white gear until the air was coming out of the vents that my controls showed it should be coming out of, and then screwed the actuator in place.
Hey carnal te agradezco mucho estuve batallando mucho quitando y poniendo el actuador y no funcionaba asta q hice lo que dices y que perfecto,muchas gracias 👍
You are a genius I did what you said and know it works perfectly thank thank thank you.
Perfect video and explanation on how to install. My 2014 F-150 XLT 4x4 started clicking loudly when I would switch from defrost to panel vents. I ended up removing my gas pedal to get at the actuator a little easier (only 3 bolts - all 1/2 inch socket). Removal and install was about an hour. I agree with some other comments re: it being a little difficult to get to. I’m 6’1” / 215lbs and it was all I could do to contort myself and get to the part. Once I found a spot, I was good to go. Save me several hundreds of dollars. Thanks brother!
I went to the module beside the foot feed on my 2017 f150 and wiggled the wire harness along with tapping the module. After doing that my front window defrost and floor heat came back on. Try this first
Awesome stuff man. I have been looking everywhere online for 2015 and up F150s with this same issue and couldn’t find a single thing until your vid. All info and vids were for prior models and those have a different blower housing/plenum. I figured it might be the same, but I wanted to be sure. My wife works at a dealership so I get discount prices on oem ford stuff, so I wanted to knock it out myself. My 2016 just started doing this a day ago, stuck on face only also. 112,000 miles on it and drive it in the oilfield so not mad about the minor issue. Could be a whole ac unit swap like my coworkers gm trucks with less than 100k miles ha. Thank you for posting this. Short and to the point. 👍
is that unit also the temp mode actuator.......if not where is it? mine by its own will changes temp..usuall hot to cold turn it off then back on to get hot again most of the time
@@paggeau No it is not that same one, if you have dual zone climate (separate passenger & driver) The drivers side control is easier then the passenger control. It would be located on the passenger floor board bottom of the heater box. If however the passenger side control is malfunctioning it is a 6.5 hour repair.
Saw a comment below about tapping it . Gave it few smacks with the handle of a screw driver and it started working again!
I’m hoping to do the same now. 7 days later still working fine?
Mine worked after tapping it, as well. 😂
Literally JUST did that 2 mins ago and it WORKED
Tapped mine and worked for another couple weeks. Ended up replacing it
Broooo that work for me I’m in aweee
Thank you, perfect video.
Replaced all 3 actuators on my 2013 F150 5.0 twice now. Stuck blowing out just the vents again after...REPLACING THEM AGAIN JUST NOW!! FIRST FORD TRUCK AND DEFINITELY MY LAST!! JUNK!! I'VE REPLACED EVERYTHING IN THIS TRUCK BESIDES PROBABLY THE WINDOWS. GRRRRRR!!
You're my freaking hero!!!!!!!! I've been searching online for that location for weeks. Just found your video. Thank you so very much!!!!!!!! Is that napa part better than oem?
I dont think it's any better. Probably just as good
Thank you for this
Great Job
I have the same problem on my 2016 f150. It is a single zone climate system and the AC was barely coming out of the face but was blowing out of the defrost vent causing the windshield to condensate. I tried the dorman part but it was junk so I went OEM Ford and it was working great.
So replacing the one by gas pedal worked for you? My 2017 having very low air volume out the face vents.
Any idea what actuator if any handles the recirculation function? My truck recirculation isn't working as it was before 2018 F-150 2.7
So guys is Dorman 604-288 the correct replacement part? I’ve seen a couple different part numbers in the comments. Just want to make sure. I appreciate the video and the help.
Just make sure the electrical pins on your new actuator are in the same position as the old one. All the actuators for Hvac on this vehicle look the same but the electric pins are in different positions
on my 2008 after installing the new one I have to remove 2 fuses from the fuse panel and then turn on the unit and it calibrates itself then after 30 sec I plug them fuses back in and turn it ion again and it finishes the calibration.
Ford says this:
1. NOTE: The defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator can be accessed from underneath the LH side of the instrument panel.
Disconnect the defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator electrical connector.
2. Remove the 3 defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator screws.
3. Remove the defrost/panel/floor mode door actuator.
4. NOTICE: The ignition key must be off when replacing the actuator. Energizing the actuator before installation will cause the part to become positioned incorrectly and proper orientation will be lost. Incorrect actuator operation will result.
To install reverse the removal procedure.
5. NOTE: The purpose of the module actuator position calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points. To carry out calibration carry out the following steps.
Remove Central Junction Box (CJB) fuse 13 and CJB fuse 5 for at least one minute. See: Fuse > Application and ID
6. NOTE: When the ignition switch is switched to the ON position the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate the actuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
Reinstall CJB fuse 13 and CJB fuse 5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct mode door actuator operation.
Hi did you remove the gas padel too or just connector of it? I dont have enough room to copy your steps for some reasons on same truck
This part is way harder to get to than this video suggests. Be prepared to remove the lower dash panel and a metal plate held on by 4 10mm bolts w/blue locktite and flimsy trim tabs. Before screwing the new one on, connect the plug, turn truck on and push the vent button that matches wherever yours got stuck at. The new actuator should then align to the plastic gears in the vent system.
Hey change my out now when I hit the face vent it goes to the floor when I hit a dash vents it goes to the defrost it’s a oem actuator. Is there any procedure that I have to do
So this might be a dumb question, but I don't want to screw anything up on my truck by doing something I shouldn't, I've started to hear the ticking noise that could be a sign of this failure, is it going to hurt anything if I just disconnect the harness to diagnose the fault and confirm its with the actuator first before buying a new one?
2016 F150 : The OEM part would rotate outside of the housing but did not have enough energy when screwed in place. Replacing with the aftermarket part provided enough torque to rotate the gears.
The realignment of the gears at 2:30 is key!
I just replaced mine not to long ago it worked for about 2 days and now when it switches vent positions it’s will have an annoying clicking sounds for 5 seconds after switching positions
Sometimes my 2015 f150 doesn’t blow at the same volume when on max ac. I usually cut it off the back on again and it will blow at full volume again and get colder. Do you think the actuator could be my problem also
My problem is this, same truck. But the doors are outside just below the radiator. They open and then start clicking as they shut all the way but continue clicking (trying to shut). But the doors are closed. They seem to open up ok. I have not seen any videos on this as all the videos show the issue being inside. Is this the same issue as to Why their sticking?
My 2015 F150 is stuck on heat, is that the blend door actuator?
Is this the same way to fix on a 2017 f150?
I replaced the motor with a Motorcraft one and it's still blowing face. It moved from the start position to the face position and I can't get it to changr
I replaced my blend door actuator like you, and I’m getting air to the feet now, but all of buttons are out of whack!
Any ideas on how to fix this or “calibrate” it?
Try disconnecting the battery and re connect after 5 mins
Do you know if this is the same on a 2016? I think I have a similar problem, but mine is only blowing on my feet and not the face. Is there a different actuator somewhere else or is it the same?
The process is the same for 2015-22
Thanks for the video, I'm currently having this problem and have yet to fix it! Mine was stuck on face (vent) but now I'm having another issue with the driver side blowing cool while the passenger side is hot. I've read that the said you know it's the mode door because you can hear a clicking or knocking sound coming from down by the feet! My truck never made this noise and the controls stopped working! Should I focus on this part or do my issues lay elsewhere? Thanks for any replys!
Did you get it fixed?
Hi i have a question. My f150 2013 in driver side, even i change it to cold or hot it stays on slightly warm. Feels like the blend door is stuck but the passenger works fine. Tried to max the fan either of the side, it works. Is it the same as this video? Just replace the blend door actuator just below the steering wheel?
I can't understand your question? If you're asking if the temperature actuators are the same procedure, they may be similar. I am not sure of the locations at this time
Do you know what parts switchew from cold to hot
A similar motor, but different procedure, different location..
Do you have to reset the system?If yes how?
By the way you helping a lot ford comunity 😁👍
No, I dont believe so. I did not
I replaced my mode actuator and I still have the same problem, air only blowing from the front vents. Any suggestions on what to do? Please help
see the part about the gear adjustment. It might also free something up if you remove the actuator and move the gears by hand.
3 days ago mine was stuck on heat... today it was stuck on cold. similar job?
Similar but different location
After successfully replacing the actuator, my advise to you is . . . pay the $300 and have the mechanic do it! The part and required tools were $50 . . . 4 hours labor plus $60 for the chiropractor were not worth the pain and frustration. There's a TON this video doesn't tell you.
What size torx bit did you use
I dont remember, probably a T15 or T20
@@mt406mechanics I used a T15
Hi, just changed mine out but it's still not working. Any ideas?
Same here. I replaced mine as well and it's still not wanting to work.
@@robertswiderii3508 I researched and it seemes like there can be some insulation that has fallen and is stopping the door itself from moving. To remove that insulation, you have to remove the middle piece by the cd player. Not to change anything, just to remove the insulation that has fallen. Let me see if I can put the link on here.
What size torx head?
T20
I did this and it still didn’t change the air flow from the panel to defrost or floor. I turned the gear and it slid in place. I put the the screws back and put the wire harness back. Nothing changed. Damn.
Try a battery disconnect, or it may be a wiring or controller problem
@@mt406mechanics thank you. I got in the truck a few hours later and now….when I put the air to the floor it goes up the Defrost. The Defrost setting goes to the floor. None of them go to the panel at more than 1/3 strength. So I’ll be taking it apart tomorrow and try to set it correctly. 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Do you know if there's a process to reset the thing's home position? It swung to defrost for me, but now the controls won't move it from there. Maybe need to pull a fuse or something.
Paul Phillips not to sound rude, but did you line up the correct notches for the gear? I don’t think it would slide in if you didn’t but I can see that being the case. I had to spin the gearing into the right position to get it to align correctly. Also, there’s a second actuator for these trucks that looks almost exactly like the one needed, except for the set position of the gear, which might cause it to get the effect your talking about. But again, it has 2 very small notches that need to align on the housing of the actuator for it to slide in.
Hope this helps, but I’m no mechanic. Just enough mechanically inclined
vlcmhwk22 mine was keyed like you said, basically a hiccup in the tooth tooth pattern that forced it to only line up one way. Not sure what else to check, will keep researching. Thanks for the replies though!
@@PaulPhillipsIndy I have the same problem as you explained in your last comment. Did you find a fix?
@@seankelleher3843 I read that there's a reset procedure with pulling fuses but I've not tried it as I don't want to have to tear the dang thing apart again to get it back to dash if it rotated up to defrost again and got stuck again, also worried that not doing the fuse reset may have broken the replaced part.
Hi brother Ford expedition 2006 same this
You have got to be kidding? How in the hell do you get to that top screw? I can't just barely see it. Getting to is next to impossible without removing the dash!
Dealership wants to charge me 1100 to do this
You should consider renaming the video title. In this video you replace the blend door actuator NOT the mode door actuator, which requires removal of dash.