Hey everyone! There are a couple quick things to address. 1. This is a non Bambu Printer Upgrade and could have the potential to damage your printer. You are doing this at your own risk just like any other upgrade you do on any machine. 2. I have talked to Tim and he is going to work on a Y cable that will allow use of the original factory light, along with the new lights! I really want this as it will be even more light in the printer. 3. TH3D sold out of these lights today for the X1 Series (THANK YOU ALL) and more are being ordered today! Tim has allowed backordering for now and will ship them as soon as they get to him! 4. Last I checked, there are only about 20 left for the P1 series, so if you want one for your P1S or P1P grab them quick! TH3D Led Light Kit for X1 Printers : www.th3dstudio.com/product/bambu-x1-x1c-lighting-upgrade-kit/?share=xtremescion Th3D Led Light Kit for the P1 Series: www.th3dstudio.com/product/bambu-p1-p1s-lighting-upgrade-kit/?share=xtremescion
Glad to hear they’re working on a Y cable. The upgraded kit sits above the print head so there’s a lot of dark spots when printing. With the stock light too it would eliminate a lot of that.
I've been lurking on the edge of 3D printing for about 6 years now and Tim's work was always been exemplary. His value to the hobby and its community cannot be overstated. Tired of the printers being the hobby and wanting to print things as my hobby I switched to Bambu Lab X1-Carbon in January and am super glad to see this upgrade from TH3D. I'm all over it.
I just installed my kit in my X1. Wow, it sure makes a difference. One extra note is that with my new kit there were 7 cable clips, which made cable dressing much nicer. It's good to know that the TH3D folks listen to suggestions. This is a great added value to my X1. I had the top off when I turned on my printer after installation. I looked at the lights and it didn't light up right away. A few moments later the lights snapped on and wow, I reacted to the sudden burst of light by instinctively ducking back a little. It sure looks nice now. Kudo's to The Edge of Tech for this guide and review. It was seeing this that got me to buy and install my own.
just installed this. huge difference in the lighting. very happy for the money! there were many more cable clamps in the kit than in the video so they clearly listened to that request. now for the 'y' so we can utilize the oem light as well. thank you for the detailed instructions in the video.
I bought a few of these LEDs weeks back. It is a great deal and great design. I originally installed the same way you showed in the video . The main issue is the light blind camera. However, after testing, I found it best to route the other direction. I mounted 2 of the LEDs in the front, and the 3rd LED about the same as the first one you did. ( Basically above the OEM light). The result is no blinding lights on the camera. No blinding light when looking through the front. The light should be coming from behind the camera. The front mounted LED's light up the print head and makes working on the head much better as it gets lit up.
Great idea! Just becuase their directions show to mount them the way I did, doesn't mean you have to do it that way! You can mount these lights anywhere you want as long as it won't get caught in anything!
Great upgrade tip! Thanks! I just got mine a couple hours ago and installed it right away. It did only take 10 minutes. Not only does it make seeing what's going on in there easier, but the extra light will definitely make it much easier to service the X1C. Thanks again for this upgrade tip.
I print with black filament a lot and always struggle to see how the print is progressing through the X1's camera, so I would definitely benefit from this upgrade. But I do wonder if Bambu intentionally made the built-in LED as dim as it is. It would have been cool to see some kind of before-and-after test involving the LIDAR calibration to make sure the brighter light doesn't have a negative impact on that.
@@peterpeter5666 I'm not so sure about that now. Since I posted my comment, it has occurred to me that the built-in LED is can be turned on and off by software. So, why wouldn't Bambu have just turned off the LED during LIDAR calibration if light interference was an issue? Also, they don't give any warnings to not use the printer in a bright room to keep light from interfering with the LIDAR either.
Nice to have options. I prefer the BLLED because you don’t have to wire something into your printer and you don’t need wires strung inside the chamber. It also gives you the added benefits of much more light, colored lights that reflect the printer status, turns off the lights during LiDAR calibration, etc. BLLED also requires no soldering, but it does require that you print a riser. The remixed riser for BLLED is awesome, and I uploaded an improved light diffuser to Maker World that keeps the LEDs from shining in your eyes.
Great feedback! That is a great system, I agree! Somebody is looking just to do extra light. Super fast, and cheap, this is a great alternative to that one!
What's the BLLED? Is it an official BL light addon? I've never heard of it. I have risers with some string lights that I soldered up on all my BL machines, but I'd like to have a better setup.
I already have LED strips and JST connectors and so I will make my own, I made a part in Fusion for an angled light strip and diffuser for my Ender 5 Plus machines and so I might convert that for my X1C, I would also use black clips so they don't stand out, I might also add a socket at the end for the OG JST so I have the OG light active also.
I wouldn't mind creating my own strips as well. I have the connectors and crimping tools at hand so then I could power the stock LED bar along with my own strip. I don't know what the voltage of the strips should be but I'm sure that I can find that info somewhere.
Maybe not a perfect solution, but for someone just wanting more light than stock, it is definitely an alternative. I could consider this, as I just have stock light, and do not really need those LED riser etc. stuff out there.
A great solution for most users. I have risers on both of mine so I can run PLA with the doors closed. This presents a lot of opportunities to increase lighting, just haven't got to the point that it is important enough to do.
I'd imagine you could fairly easily splice the stock and upgraded light together. Either soldering them, or making a custom plug that goes in the port with two female ports to plug each into.
@@TheEdgeofTech Other discussions I've read say this will be an issue because it will draw too much power. 350ma is the max recommended by Bambu. Do we know how many the LEDs are pulling?
I feel like if bambo would have put some metal reflective tape on the back it would have helped a bit with the stock lights; or ya know put a brighter/better light in to begin with. I might have to pick one of these kits up for my P1S
Got my light strip from TH3D installed today. It makes such a huge difference. There's just enough room between the toolhead carriage and the underside of the metal frame to allow you to put the lights under that lip, pointing downward, and the toolhead doesn't rub the lights. So they are effectively hidden from view. Does anyone have g-codes that could be added at the beginning of the startup to turn the light off, then back on after the printing actually starts? Anyone know what size the JST connector is? I still need to make a y-connector for the old light to still be lit up.
What an amazing difference! Just got the kit minutes ago and it's already installed and working, almost too easy. I wouldn't say it's a "printing" game changer, but I sure as heck like being able to see what I'm printing, even through the smoked glass. Thanks for bringing this product to our attention! I also second the commenter who asked, will we be getting the Y cable for those who bought the kit before?
The Y cable will be a separate addon that anyone can purchase once we get them in and finalized. We're playing with a few different designs right now and then will need to test to make sure they work correctly without causing issues with the printer.
I’ve tried generic strip kits on my P1S through the USB port. There isn’t a clean path with only 4 90° turns for the strips to adhere to, so a continuous strip is actually more of a hassle. It would be nice if the sections of LEDs were longer with less wire in between them. A better light to length ratio lol
You stated you would like to have both lights at the same time and out of curiosity why didn't you just in stall the readily available LED Light strip with the standard USB connector? A standard USB connector is available on the side of the P1S in the frame in the circuitry behind the display. This way you get both lights at the same time. This one turns on when the machine is on.
Not all X1Cs are the same. My light was too bright and I created a better defuser so I stopped blowing out my camera. I know it’s not the camera because I have four X1Cs. Two are too bright. Or more likely from what I see the lights are more cool and possibly brighter. That being said, my other two are nearly too bright with pure white. I have used a lot of LEDs to fix my minor problems. In the early days when failure detection was actually useable, some LEDs caused problems with that system. I wonder if they it back on that feature because people wouldn’t stop adding more lights… Anyway this is awesome. Given how much power is needed for these lights I’d say you could safely split the power to the original light bar if you like.
I love my X1 Carbon, but I keep hearing, that a brighter light actually negatively affects the Lidar, if you can shine some light on this would be much appreciated
I really wish they would’ve thrown a USB connector on the P1 version. Then the original light would also work. I’ve used that USB port for other LED kits on my P1S, but the LED strips themselves haven’t been ideal, especially under higher temp conditions. The adhesive doesn’t stick lol.
While it's nice to see more through the door and into the printer, that's not usually where I monitor the printer and prints. I do that through the video feed. It's a shame you didn't include a capture of the differences in BambuStudio/Orca
Dude, you're amazing. I've been searching for hours to find how to do this on the latest X1 printer. Plus your videos are nice and clear and in focus. Only issue I had was that I removed the hot glue holding the clip and when I pulled on the clip, the entire clip separated from the board, so I guess I have to contact Bambu Labs to figure out what to do to fix this as now I had no light connect at all. Suggestions?
I'll wait until the Y cable becomes available, so I can order them in one go. Also, wouldn't it make more sense to put one of the strips on the front instead of on the back? Or would there not be enough clearance with the toolhead moving across the front?
Yes, you don't want to use the set up in the instructions. Light sources goes behind the camera, out of view. This isn't some artsy photo to capture an outline, we want maximum details.
Any reason why you couldn't run them around the front instead of the back? Typically you want your light source shining from the direction you're looking from. The light in the rear isn't very helpful.
I'm so glad I found this video, I'm definitely going to buy one. My only question is, why didn't they put one more set of LEDs on the front by the door?
Seems like it would be better to route the cable and lights so that it lights from the left, front, and right. That way you can see the front of the model instead of back lighting the model being printed.
Has anyone Upgraded their Bambu Power Cable to something longer and heavy duty, or just a heavy-duty cable? I have found some 14ga 15a 125v cable from reputable brands for pcs that are 6-10ft long. I was looking at running my Bambu P1S on a high-end surge protector or a sine wave ups.
Any chance you can do a video on a fan added to the poop location to help prevent clogs. I saw print files on Bambu labs but can't seem to find it anymore.
I printed a riser that holds the LEDs at an angle. I first installed the LEDs on my P1S on the top rail and didn't like the look. Installed them in the riser and it made a big difference focusing the light on the build plate almost like stadium lights.
Just got the kit in the mail. For the price, this is a great deal, but you can't use the light placement provided in this video, which is putting the lights on the opposite side for the object you are trying to view. For an application like this, you want the light source behind the camera, so I put the strips on the front panel and right next to the camera. Additionally, there should be a y-splitter comign in this kit too. If you use the set up in the kit's instructions, you will not get an improvement, in fact, my prints (black ABS) were even harder to see. Hopefully the kit can get some updated instructions.
Great video as always my friend! I really wish they would have 4 strips of lights for all 4 sides. Any chance to inquire with them why there was only 3? With there only being 3, if they could have it where it also uses the stock light, then you could start your first light after the connector at the front and last strip would be in rear then stock would cover that nonexistent for light.
BL LED controller. It is a bit more difficult to install but you get a heck of a lot more lighting and it controls the lights so it doesn't mess with the lidar.
Like I said in the video, I agree that there are different ways to do this! This is just the cheapest and fastest way if you're just looking for extra light! Thank you for your feedback!
I did this and it damaged the AP board. The problem is that they don’t sell it on the website and I have to go through the support which is super slow at the moment due to A1 recall. The printer is still functional.
@@TheEdgeofTech I must correct it didn’t fry the board. It caused damages to the board. According to Bambu labs - The LED fill light circuit supports up to 5V 0.3A fill light, so a short circuit or overcurrent may cause damage to the AP board. Aftermarket lights like this one can take more current than that which causes damage to that board.
You really needed to show video or at least a photo from the built-in camera so we could see how different it is from the stock lighting. Looking at a part inside without using the camera is kind of pointless.
Gotta get them clicks. An honest title would be informative and non-sensationalist. "Easy to install Interior light upgrade for Bambu provides better part illumination". The algorithm is making UA-cam titles and thumbnails near useless.
nice, sadly i cant buy it, since i am in Puerto Rico "US Territory", the shipping is $34.00, so no way im going to pay $48 for 3 mini leds, anyway, they look great
This is what i did. Made a beefy riser with vents i could open and close for different materials, and installed a ceiling light, it was a bit more than $5, but not much. Compared to this led light kit, its night and day difference
I cant afford a Bambu printer so I would say....kinda LOL Might be nice to use on other printers too just cut the end off and make one that fits your printer or even use a buck convertor if you need different voltage
Hey Jim, I just came across this channel called 'Tonnsy'. It only has 6 subscribers at the time of writing, but it looks like they've been copying your videos and then reuploading them as though they were their own. I just thought you ought to know.
This is not a game changer. It’s even worse then other solutions like BL LED. Plus putting double sided tape, which is on the LEDs, is always a risk in a heat area. Also grabbing power from a point not designed for doing more is at risk of burning that part.
Interesting comment. I appreciate your opinion, but disagree. Disagree. If you're looking for more light in your printer, at a cheap price and very easy to install, this is a great upgrade! Did you not see how much more light it put into the printer? Definitely not clickbait when I showed the upgrade on the thumbnail and it was exactly what was in the video! Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech the video is ok, I watch your content. Just don't write "Game Changer". My opinion of course. I'm sure you know what a game changer is. Then again it's your channel, you decide.
@@tek_soup the site uses caching so sometimes you'll get served an old page. No scams going on here. Just a product in high demand that sold out quick. Sorry for the trouble!
Hey everyone! There are a couple quick things to address. 1. This is a non Bambu Printer Upgrade and could have the potential to damage your printer. You are doing this at your own risk just like any other upgrade you do on any machine. 2. I have talked to Tim and he is going to work on a Y cable that will allow use of the original factory light, along with the new lights! I really want this as it will be even more light in the printer. 3. TH3D sold out of these lights today for the X1 Series (THANK YOU ALL) and more are being ordered today! Tim has allowed backordering for now and will ship them as soon as they get to him! 4. Last I checked, there are only about 20 left for the P1 series, so if you want one for your P1S or P1P grab them quick!
TH3D Led Light Kit for X1 Printers : www.th3dstudio.com/product/bambu-x1-x1c-lighting-upgrade-kit/?share=xtremescion
Th3D Led Light Kit for the P1 Series: www.th3dstudio.com/product/bambu-p1-p1s-lighting-upgrade-kit/?share=xtremescion
Glad to hear they’re working on a Y cable. The upgraded kit sits above the print head so there’s a lot of dark spots when printing. With the stock light too it would eliminate a lot of that.
We are working on a Y cable and the next shipment should be in next week. They are already on the way to us.
@@TH3DStudio that’s awesome news! Will you be emailing those of us that bought the light kit when the Y cable arrives?
Can’t wait for you to ship my Y kit. Just got my LED installed.
I have heard that extra light can affect the lidar on the X1. Does anyone find that to be a problem?
I've been lurking on the edge of 3D printing for about 6 years now and Tim's work was always been exemplary. His value to the hobby and its community cannot be overstated. Tired of the printers being the hobby and wanting to print things as my hobby I switched to Bambu Lab X1-Carbon in January and am super glad to see this upgrade from TH3D. I'm all over it.
I just installed my kit in my X1. Wow, it sure makes a difference. One extra note is that with my new kit there were 7 cable clips, which made cable dressing much nicer. It's good to know that the TH3D folks listen to suggestions. This is a great added value to my X1. I had the top off when I turned on my printer after installation. I looked at the lights and it didn't light up right away. A few moments later the lights snapped on and wow, I reacted to the sudden burst of light by instinctively ducking back a little. It sure looks nice now. Kudo's to The Edge of Tech for this guide and review. It was seeing this that got me to buy and install my own.
just installed this. huge difference in the lighting. very happy for the money! there were many more cable clamps in the kit than in the video so they clearly listened to that request. now for the 'y' so we can utilize the oem light as well. thank you for the detailed instructions in the video.
I bought a few of these LEDs weeks back. It is a great deal and great design. I originally installed the same way you showed in the video . The main issue is the light blind camera.
However, after testing, I found it best to route the other direction. I mounted 2 of the LEDs in the front, and the 3rd LED about the same as the first one you did. ( Basically above the OEM light).
The result is no blinding lights on the camera. No blinding light when looking through the front. The light should be coming from behind the camera. The front mounted LED's light up the print head and makes working on the head much better as it gets lit up.
Great idea! Just becuase their directions show to mount them the way I did, doesn't mean you have to do it that way! You can mount these lights anywhere you want as long as it won't get caught in anything!
sure after I just installed mine following your directions. Guess I need you to ship me a new set to replace this one.
Great upgrade tip! Thanks! I just got mine a couple hours ago and installed it right away. It did only take 10 minutes. Not only does it make seeing what's going on in there easier, but the extra light will definitely make it much easier to service the X1C. Thanks again for this upgrade tip.
Thank you, hopefully they bring a bigger bed X1 soon
yes, as far as i'm aware, the A1 series was made to fund the upcoming bigger printers
Amen! Can't wait for that day to come!
Crazy, that would be a good Idea if that did!
@@TheEdgeofTech maybe you can do an interview with the ceo of the company,!
I print with black filament a lot and always struggle to see how the print is progressing through the X1's camera, so I would definitely benefit from this upgrade. But I do wonder if Bambu intentionally made the built-in LED as dim as it is. It would have been cool to see some kind of before-and-after test involving the LIDAR calibration to make sure the brighter light doesn't have a negative impact on that.
Great ideat! And I have TH3D Working on a Y cable that will allow these to work with the factory lights too!
its for the lidar
@@peterpeter5666 I'm not so sure about that now. Since I posted my comment, it has occurred to me that the built-in LED is can be turned on and off by software. So, why wouldn't Bambu have just turned off the LED during LIDAR calibration if light interference was an issue? Also, they don't give any warnings to not use the printer in a bright room to keep light from interfering with the LIDAR either.
@@JesseOsby makes sense but that's the excuse I always heard when I was deciding wether to get a p1s or x1 c
@@JesseOsbyyes exactly lol, if it was a problem they would simply tell the light to switch off during the calibration 😂
Nice to have options. I prefer the BLLED because you don’t have to wire something into your printer and you don’t need wires strung inside the chamber. It also gives you the added benefits of much more light, colored lights that reflect the printer status, turns off the lights during LiDAR calibration, etc. BLLED also requires no soldering, but it does require that you print a riser. The remixed riser for BLLED is awesome, and I uploaded an improved light diffuser to Maker World that keeps the LEDs from shining in your eyes.
Great feedback! That is a great system, I agree! Somebody is looking just to do extra light. Super fast, and cheap, this is a great alternative to that one!
What's the BLLED? Is it an official BL light addon? I've never heard of it. I have risers with some string lights that I soldered up on all my BL machines, but I'd like to have a better setup.
@@OhImKiCkiN, do a quick search on it and you’ll find it.
Yeah the blled is great in theory. Too bad it only works half the time.
@@OhImKiCkiNit's unofficial, it's open source so because of this I know it works via mqtt
I already have LED strips and JST connectors and so I will make my own, I made a part in Fusion for an angled light strip and diffuser for my Ender 5 Plus machines and so I might convert that for my X1C, I would also use black clips so they don't stand out, I might also add a socket at the end for the OG JST so I have the OG light active also.
I wouldn't mind creating my own strips as well. I have the connectors and crimping tools at hand so then I could power the stock LED bar along with my own strip. I don't know what the voltage of the strips should be but I'm sure that I can find that info somewhere.
Maybe not a perfect solution, but for someone just wanting more light than stock, it is definitely an alternative. I could consider this, as I just have stock light, and do not really need those LED riser etc. stuff out there.
A great solution for most users. I have risers on both of mine so I can run PLA with the doors closed. This presents a lot of opportunities to increase lighting, just haven't got to the point that it is important enough to do.
Just curious but wouldn't the brighter leds interfere with the lidar sensor
Just received mine in the mail last week. Going to install it today!
Just ordered mine, even though it's on back order - SO glad I saw your video!
What's the draw on these? From what I have been reading you shouldn't exceed .3 amps
I'd imagine you could fairly easily splice the stock and upgraded light together. Either soldering them, or making a custom plug that goes in the port with two female ports to plug each into.
Will this mess with the Lidar or bed leveling?
I have the same question
why not a y adapter to use both the stock light and the new tiny little lights?
Do they not make a Y splitter so that we can plug in both the kit and the original LED lights?
I have him that feedback too and he is looking to get them in! I want one!
@@TheEdgeofTech Other discussions I've read say this will be an issue because it will draw too much power. 350ma is the max recommended by Bambu. Do we know how many the LEDs are pulling?
The most enlightening upgrade one can wish for.
That was a bright comment! Thanks for watching!
I feel like if bambo would have put some metal reflective tape on the back it would have helped a bit with the stock lights; or ya know put a brighter/better light in to begin with. I might have to pick one of these kits up for my P1S
I would love to see this kind of light from the factory on stock printers for sure!
I like your videos. Just got started with the x1c. Th3 new kit has an adaptor so you can run both the led and the stock light
Got my light strip from TH3D installed today. It makes such a huge difference. There's just enough room between the toolhead carriage and the underside of the metal frame to allow you to put the lights under that lip, pointing downward, and the toolhead doesn't rub the lights. So they are effectively hidden from view. Does anyone have g-codes that could be added at the beginning of the startup to turn the light off, then back on after the printing actually starts? Anyone know what size the JST connector is? I still need to make a y-connector for the old light to still be lit up.
Update the Y-connector is still working great with zero problems. So I think after 5 days we have passed the smoke test. Possibly quite literally.
What an amazing difference! Just got the kit minutes ago and it's already installed and working, almost too easy. I wouldn't say it's a "printing" game changer, but I sure as heck like being able to see what I'm printing, even through the smoked glass. Thanks for bringing this product to our attention! I also second the commenter who asked, will we be getting the Y cable for those who bought the kit before?
The Y cable will be a separate addon that anyone can purchase once we get them in and finalized. We're playing with a few different designs right now and then will need to test to make sure they work correctly without causing issues with the printer.
Will connecting both draw more power than the port can handle?
@@davidzizza depends on what you connect. The fet is rated for 0.9A
What was unplugged and never plugged back in??? (Never mind. That's what I thought. Need a Y connector.)
That is the original led light, not needed anymore with the new ledkit 😉
@@JohnHDK But a Y would be even better.
I have TH3D working on a Y cable for this exact reason. Like I said in the video, I would love to see these work along with the stock lights!
I wish we could stil use it though!
I have TH3D working on a Y cable for this exact reason. Like I said in the video, I would love to see these work along with the stock lights!
Fantastic, thanks for this. Much better than printing brackets etc., like some other solutions. Two ordered for my X1Cs :)
Do you have a video on tpu on Bambon Bambu how to use tpu
those lights are great. but what happened to that x1? it's so beat up
HAHA Ya.. It was a "referbished" machine they sent me. It's rough but still works like a champ!
what is the connector called? wondering if there's a full circle LED rather than having a couple on 3 sides.
I’ve tried generic strip kits on my P1S through the USB port. There isn’t a clean path with only 4 90° turns for the strips to adhere to, so a continuous strip is actually more of a hassle. It would be nice if the sections of LEDs were longer with less wire in between them. A better light to length ratio lol
You stated you would like to have both lights at the same time and out of curiosity why didn't you just in stall the readily available LED Light strip with the standard USB connector? A standard USB connector is available on the side of the P1S in the frame in the circuitry behind the display. This way you get both lights at the same time. This one turns on when the machine is on.
Where do I get that hour glass model?
Not all X1Cs are the same.
My light was too bright and I created a better defuser so I stopped blowing out my camera.
I know it’s not the camera because I have four X1Cs. Two are too bright. Or more likely from what I see the lights are more cool and possibly brighter.
That being said, my other two are nearly too bright with pure white.
I have used a lot of LEDs to fix my minor problems. In the early days when failure detection was actually useable, some LEDs caused problems with that system. I wonder if they it back on that feature because people wouldn’t stop adding more lights…
Anyway this is awesome. Given how much power is needed for these lights I’d say you could safely split the power to the original light bar if you like.
Ia therebone for the a1?
I love my X1 Carbon, but I keep hearing, that a brighter light actually negatively affects the Lidar, if you can shine some light on this would be much appreciated
Can only speak for our kits but when mounted as shown they do not affect the Lidar. We use it on our X1C and the lidar still works correctly.
@@TH3DStudio thanks for the feedback looks like I have something else to buy
Nice vid. Thanks! Agree with the idea of having a couple of extra clips. I think it would give a cleaner look if the clips were black.
Thanks for watching!
I really wish they would’ve thrown a USB connector on the P1 version. Then the original light would also work. I’ve used that USB port for other LED kits on my P1S, but the LED strips themselves haven’t been ideal, especially under higher temp conditions. The adhesive doesn’t stick lol.
While it's nice to see more through the door and into the printer, that's not usually where I monitor the printer and prints. I do that through the video feed. It's a shame you didn't include a capture of the differences in BambuStudio/Orca
Is the original light Disabled?
Can I use the original lamp with the new one with an electricity thief (that's what they call it in German)?
I asked him to create a splitter and he is working on that now!
Dude, you're amazing. I've been searching for hours to find how to do this on the latest X1 printer. Plus your videos are nice and clear and in focus. Only issue I had was that I removed the hot glue holding the clip and when I pulled on the clip, the entire clip separated from the board, so I guess I have to contact Bambu Labs to figure out what to do to fix this as now I had no light connect at all. Suggestions?
Just ordered on of these kits and the clear acrylic door.
I'll wait until the Y cable becomes available, so I can order them in one go. Also, wouldn't it make more sense to put one of the strips on the front instead of on the back? Or would there not be enough clearance with the toolhead moving across the front?
Yes, you don't want to use the set up in the instructions. Light sources goes behind the camera, out of view. This isn't some artsy photo to capture an outline, we want maximum details.
Any reason why you couldn't run them around the front instead of the back? Typically you want your light source shining from the direction you're looking from. The light in the rear isn't very helpful.
I'm so glad I found this video, I'm definitely going to buy one. My only question is, why didn't they put one more set of LEDs on the front by the door?
There are cables in the way in the front of the machine that make it hard to mount the strip in there.
@@TH3DStudio
Thanks for your prompt answer. I'm looking forward to having the extra light 😬
On backorder already if I read my order confirmation correctly.
It looks like it yes, he ran out after the video came out, but is ordering more as we speak! You will get them as soon as they arrive to TH3D!
Seems like it would be better to route the cable and lights so that it lights from the left, front, and right. That way you can see the front of the model instead of back lighting the model being printed.
Has anyone Upgraded their Bambu Power Cable to something longer and heavy duty, or just a heavy-duty cable? I have found some 14ga 15a 125v cable from reputable brands for pcs that are 6-10ft long. I was looking at running my Bambu P1S on a high-end surge protector or a sine wave ups.
Any chance you can do a video on a fan added to the poop location to help prevent clogs.
I saw print files on Bambu labs but can't seem to find it anymore.
I printed a riser that holds the LEDs at an angle. I first installed the LEDs on my P1S on the top rail and didn't like the look. Installed them in the riser and it made a big difference focusing the light on the build plate almost like stadium lights.
I like those too, and they are a great option!
Just got the kit in the mail. For the price, this is a great deal, but you can't use the light placement provided in this video, which is putting the lights on the opposite side for the object you are trying to view. For an application like this, you want the light source behind the camera, so I put the strips on the front panel and right next to the camera.
Additionally, there should be a y-splitter comign in this kit too.
If you use the set up in the kit's instructions, you will not get an improvement, in fact, my prints (black ABS) were even harder to see. Hopefully the kit can get some updated instructions.
Great video as always my friend! I really wish they would have 4 strips of lights for all 4 sides. Any chance to inquire with them why there was only 3? With there only being 3, if they could have it where it also uses the stock light, then you could start your first light after the connector at the front and last strip would be in rear then stock would cover that nonexistent for light.
The front of the machine has multiple cables in the way that make it hard to mount a light.
BL LED controller. It is a bit more difficult to install but you get a heck of a lot more lighting and it controls the lights so it doesn't mess with the lidar.
Like I said in the video, I agree that there are different ways to do this! This is just the cheapest and fastest way if you're just looking for extra light! Thank you for your feedback!
These do not mess up the LIDAR. We tested all that before selling :)
I did this and it damaged the AP board. The problem is that they don’t sell it on the website and I have to go through the support which is super slow at the moment due to A1 recall. The printer is still functional.
Whoa! How did it fry the board??
Was this the TH3D kit that you put on or different lights?
@@TheEdgeofTech I must correct it didn’t fry the board. It caused damages to the board. According to Bambu labs - The LED fill light circuit supports up to 5V 0.3A fill light, so a short circuit or overcurrent may cause damage to the AP board. Aftermarket lights like this one can take more current than that which causes damage to that board.
@@TheEdgeofTech yes so mine is always dim and cannot be turned off. I am working with support at the moment to get a new board.
@@Theprofessor1212 Did you reach out to TH3D about this as well?
Thank you! And TH3D sent me 10 cable clips!
Very nice upgrade! Super bright 😅
Why they dont sell non tinted glass? It would be awesome and eco friendly instead of having ton of Watts for lighting obscured by a dark glass...
Pretty cool!
Thank you for watching!
KINDA wish you showed us the camera view.
Theres camera views on the product page :)
Yo! you got 100k subs! XD I remember when you told me you had 2k! Your videos are so well done, congrats man!
Not impressed, looks like you lowered the LEDs to the lowest setting on the OEM leds
You really needed to show video or at least a photo from the built-in camera so we could see how different it is from the stock lighting. Looking at a part inside without using the camera is kind of pointless.
Nice and easy little upgrade 👍😊
I agree! Thanks for watching!
I just bought a USB light strip and mounted it on the underside of my AMS in the center. P1P has a USB port i plugged it into......$6
Good option as well! Thanks for watching!
You just made my mind up, I want a clean interior - I’m doing this!
This is cool and needed. Wish I was braver. I'm too ascared to do it. LOL
It's just a matter of what you call a 'game changer.' Since he doesn't technically benefit from it, I don't really see it as such.
I think I benefit from it for sure! I can see so much better inside of my printers now!
Yeah i do agree, not really a game changer.
Gotta get them clicks. An honest title would be informative and non-sensationalist. "Easy to install Interior light upgrade for Bambu provides better part illumination". The algorithm is making UA-cam titles and thumbnails near useless.
Maybe they upgrade their lights some cause my stock light is brighter than both of those
I already ordered two! 18 left!
Awesome!! I hope you like them!
nice, sadly i cant buy it, since i am in Puerto Rico "US Territory", the shipping is $34.00, so no way im going to pay $48 for 3 mini leds, anyway, they look great
Aliexpress
I find his alcohol sprayer lacking alcohol 😂.
Oh it had some in there! haha
Just pick up some new lights
That's what this video is about! haha Thanks for watching!
I'm no electrical engineer...couldn't you just add a splitter to the board so you could have both lights working at the same time?
Working on it. :)
@@TH3DStudio I bought this kit from you and a splitter from Amazon. I just hope they play nice together. *fingers crossed*
@@Chad.The.Flornadian if something breaks we cannot guarantee compatibility with 3rd party cables with our kits. Be careful.
This is a game changer? Yeah, right!
$5 monster light and riser works better imo
This is what i did. Made a beefy riser with vents i could open and close for different materials, and installed a ceiling light, it was a bit more than $5, but not much. Compared to this led light kit, its night and day difference
I will check that out too! I like this one because it's quick and easy, but I know there are a ton of options out there! Thanks for watching!
Nice! This is a great option as well!
DUDE - honestly - cut back on the talking/jibing and focus on the subject. You killed over a minute of bs. Almost lost me.
I cant afford a Bambu printer so I would say....kinda LOL Might be nice to use on other printers too just cut the end off and make one that fits your printer or even use a buck convertor if you need different voltage
Mine didn't even come with cable clips TH3D disappointing
Reach out to their support and they'll make it right!
Hey Jim, I just came across this channel called 'Tonnsy'. It only has 6 subscribers at the time of writing, but it looks like they've been copying your videos and then reuploading them as though they were their own. I just thought you ought to know.
This is not a game changer. It’s even worse then other solutions like BL LED.
Plus putting double sided tape, which is on the LEDs, is always a risk in a heat area.
Also grabbing power from a point not designed for doing more is at risk of burning that part.
I disagree, it's plugged in exactly where the other lights are plugged in. How is that grabbing power from a point not designed for it?
I never understand why such a great company would equip their printer with such dim light and a tinted door... makes no sense.
Should have shown the camera viewpoints as well. Clickbait title. Not much of a game changer.
A game changer??? Is this how you want to attract views? With click bait? No game changer here!! Just some lighting. Become more professional.
Interesting comment. I appreciate your opinion, but disagree. Disagree. If you're looking for more light in your printer, at a cheap price and very easy to install, this is a great upgrade! Did you not see how much more light it put into the printer? Definitely not clickbait when I showed the upgrade on the thumbnail and it was exactly what was in the video! Thanks for watching!
Nah it's still pretty clickbait you should assume it. It looks like a much bigger deal from the title.
@@TheEdgeofTech the video is ok, I watch your content. Just don't write "Game Changer". My opinion of course. I'm sure you know what a game changer is. Then again it's your channel, you decide.
You called that " Game changer" !!?? Damn you are naive....
this is a prime example of a 20 min video that could have been done in 2 min or less
I don't like the installation at all. Not your fault but the kits fault. Alle the wire-mess.
LED is not a game changer. Man, what people do for clicks.
This Some Scam Company? I put it in the Cart, pressed pay/place order, then they were magically OUT Of STOCK!
Not a scam company. Known these guys for years. I'll reach out to the owner right now and see what's up
thanks, yeh i took a screenshot, hit checkout and, no stock!@@TheEdgeofTech
@@tek_soup the site uses caching so sometimes you'll get served an old page. No scams going on here. Just a product in high demand that sold out quick. Sorry for the trouble!
This is a joke for 13.99 :D Watch how the printed risers look with separate led lighting, which is realy a game changer.
👎click bait. Since when adding led can be called as upgrading? Misleading UA-camr video with affiliate links 👎
Could a person make a Y connector and plug the adaptor in and keep the bambu led in use along with the th3d lights?
Working on it. :)
A candle is brighter than the original!