Engine Head Gasket / Cracked Head Repair (Toyota 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE ) - Part 6
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2023
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This is Part 6 of a 7 part video series documenting the replacement of cylinder heads on the Toyota 3.4 L V6 5VZ-FE Engine. There’s many reasons why you might find yourself needing to remove the heads. You could have a suspected bad head gasket or cracked head. You could have a suspected issue with the head, like a burnt valve, and you need to rebuild the head. It could be because you’re rebuilding the entire engine. Whatever your reason to pull the cylinder heads, this video series will walk you through all the steps necessary to get the job done successfully.
In Part 6, we get the timing belt and related components connected back to the front of the engine. We get the drive belts on and tensioned properly. Finally, we get the radiator and related hoses installed.
*TORQUE VALUES*
Water Pump Bolts - 14 ft-lbs
Thermostat Water Neck Nuts - 14 ft-lbs
#3 Timing Cover Bolts - 80 in-lbs
Camshaft Pulley Bolts - 81 ft-lbs
Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt - 71 in-lbs
#2 Idler Pulley Bolt - 30 ft-lbs
#1 Idler Pulley Bolt - 30 ft-lbs
Timing Belt Tensioner Bolts - 20 ft-lbs
#1 Timing Cover Bolts - 80 in-lbs
Starter Wire Bracket Bolts - 80 in-lbs
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt - 217 ft-lbs
#2 Timing Cover Bolts - 80 in-lbs
Oil Dipstick Tube Bolt - 71 in-lbs
Alternator Pivot Bolt - 38 ft-lbs
Alternator Belt Adjuster Lock Nut - 25 ft-lbs
AC Idler Pulley Nut - 29 ft-lbs
Power Steering Belt Adjuster Lock Nut - 32 ft-lbs
Power Steering Pivot Bolt - 32 ft-lbs
Radiator Bolts - 9 ft-lbs or 108 in-lbs
*PARTS*
*Timing belt kit
ebay.us/aD424O
*Crank Pulley Bolt #90119-16006
amzn.to/2pIZf5q
*Oil Dipstick Tube O-Ring #96721-19010
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
Please see the comment we pinned (1st comment you see) for a list of the tools used in this video.
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases. - Авто та транспорт
**TOOL LIST**
*If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.*
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythetoolman?isPublicView=true
*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches amzn.to/2oOhndL
*Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set)
amzn.to/39kQVit
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set amzn.to/31x8BOo
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set amzn.to/37iQjVt
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set amzn.to/330QjGh
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set amzn.to/35dKQwW
*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set amzn.to/2QIU7te
*Metric Allen Head Socket Set amzn.to/3Mfbag7
*1/2” Drive Regular Extension Set amzn.to/2XoLaGL
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set amzn.to/2OehCao
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set amzn.to/2O9nl2x
*1/4” Wobble Extension Set (I used a 3/8” wobble extension to access the back bolt fort the timing belt tensioner but a 1/4” would have worked better) amzn.to/46DjbX2
*1/2” Drive Breaker Bar - 18” Long (To pair with Schley Harmonic Balancer Holder Tool) amzn.to/2O7HpCo
*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun amzn.to/2uqWnZy
*Dewalt Batteries amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set amzn.to/2KnoYaq
*90 Degree Needle Nose Piers amzn.to/2VYUro8
*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 30-250 Inch Pound Torque Wrench
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray Set (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/3l5KnHg
*Silicone Plug Kit amzn.to/34Joap7
*Schley Products SP 64400 Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool
(5VZ-FE Engine) amzn.to/2SttYjf
*OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder with Interchangeable Pins
amzn.to/45WsNf2
*Schley Camshaft Pulley Holder
amzn.to/2KGmOTO
*Toyota FIPG #00295-00103 - (For Engine Applications)
amzn.to/2QrNVFO
*Toyota FIPG 1282B #08826-0010
ebay.us/FD48Jr
*Mission Automotive Silicone Paste amzn.to/2NU1En6
*Assembly Grease amzn.to/44buSCG
*OTC Belt Tension Gauge amzn.to/2t87O7N
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
Nice, when I saw you installing the radiator hoses without the fan shroud I thought, "uhm, no shroud?", but not even a minute later you figured it out.
I also used that same universal pulley holder to hold my harmonic balancer when torquing it, and it worked just fine for me as well. I bought it after seeing you using it for something, and thought it would be a good tool to have.
Also, when I rebuilt my engine one of the only issues I had when I was done was a water leak by the thermostat. As you described, the lower water neck had some major pitting around the sealing surface of the engine and thermostat. I probably should have replaced the neck, but I just put a bit of FIPG on it and it has been good so far (about 7 months no leaks).
Thanks for the comment, Jared. Yeah, we make plenty of mistakes when we wrench, and we share them sometimes, especially when it's something I can see others doing so they can learn from our mistakes. You should look into getting that FIPG 1282B meant for coolant applications. It is a bit pricey though.
I’m grateful for your attention to detail and the fact that you are showcasing my favorite engine, the 5VZFE. I happen to need to pull my heads off due to a low compression reading on #4, so this video, although it has been here a while, is filling in the gaps the Toyota service manual leaves behind. Thank you, Tim!
You're very welcome and good luck with the job once you embark on it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
Spectacular job at running through the steps and communicating your thoughts through this video.
Thanks for the compliment Danny.
Tim, another awesome episode. Kudos and Cheers, Mate.
Thanks Jack! We appreciate it
Green series thanks again
I don't understand "Green Series" but you're welcome.
Can’t wait to see her runnin again!!! Excellent series!!
God bless~
Very soon you'll see the Ol' Girl running again.
The best of the best, Timmy, the CaliToyoMaster 2023. Awesome job guys!!
Thanks for the compliment and my new title. We appreciate it!
You even posted torque specs. 😮. Damn you’re awesome. No citations from the torque police😂. Seriously though that’s awesome. Thanks👍😁👍
Thanks for noticing the level we go to for our viewers. We always cite the FSM torque values, but not for every fastener. Something we use the German spec of Gudentite. You're very welcome, and thanks for the comment.
Thanks to this video series, I was able to get my 98 prado back to new again
Hey Nick, it's great to know our video series helped you with your Prado. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. Haopy Wrenching!
You guys are doing a good job. Love the dedication to quality!
Thanks Richard. We are far from the most popular DIY Automotive Channel, but I would wager our channel is in the top 5 of channels you can rely on to accurately walk you through a maintenance, repair or modification job so you succeed and not fail. Honestly, we very well might be in our own category when it comes to the detail we offer DIYers. I watch lots of UA-cam videos and it's rare to see another UA-camr offer the same level of detail our videos do. We're not scared to post hour long videos or make multi-part series. We make the videos or the series as long as they need to be to guarantee people can be successful using them as a tutorial. Our videos are definitely not suited for people with short attention spans. If you want quick, that's not us. If you want detail, you come to us.
@@TimmyTheToolman Good thing, because working on engines isn't suited for people with short attention spans either. You have a niche segment of viewers: those who are learning about fixing their own vehicles. You show all the important torque specs and the little 'gotchas' for people to avoid too. That's so important in this new economy of overpriced everything, and stretching our old cars to the limit. These kinds of videos might not get a million views instantly, but they'll be searched for on youtube for years to come when people suddenly decide it's time to buy that torque wrench and try doing the work themselves.
@samh6761 Thanks for the comment Sam. I appreciate it! You're right, automotive mechanics isn't for people with short attention spans. I do lots of research before I perform a job. I read the factor service manual, I read write-ups, and I watch existing videos on the subject matter. All people have to do is follow along with our video to do the same thing I invested hours into. But, I guess that's too much to ask for some people. People want the cliff notes version, and that's not what we do. We write the novel.
You're right. Vehicles are getting crazy expensive, and shops charge astronomical amounts for their labor. As long as internal combustion engines are still on the roadways and trails, our videos will hold value to people.
Happy Wrenching Sam!
@@TimmyTheToolmanyour channel isnt so popular because toyotas are so reliable😁. If its not popular with Toyota channels it should be. You are the paradigm
@pitchforkpeasant6219 That's an interesting point, but there are Toyota specific channels much more popular than ours, but their content isn't better. I would argue that ours is better. I think our channel is more for the people who actually want to perform work while other channels attract people who are just window shopping.
Love your videos Timmy thanks so much
You're very welcome!
Great video in its own right Timmy. It also compliments your earlier ones really well. Getting the timing belt on was finesse in motion, those couple of changes in technique are really helpful to know. If I remember correctly you used better clamps on the cam pulleys compared to those paper clips in the original...
Hey Andrew, you are correct this part compliments our timing belt video. Knowing about the timing mark on the front of the crankshaft timing gear, and using the trick of turning the driver side crank pulley a little to slacken the belt to have an easier time getting it onto the crankshaft timing gear make a difference for sure. The clamp had no part in making it easier. It's just what we had on hand. The big binder clips work just was well.
About to start this job. Found some rebuilt heads for a great price from a reputable machine shop currently I have 350k on the clock bought it a year ago its really clean for that many miles no rust and has a ton of service records when I looked up vin. So I figured I'll see how many more miles the bottom end will get after this job. Have a question if the bottom end goes let's say 50k later will it ruin the heads? Or no because it's a non interference motor? Wish you guys would do a video on how to rebuilt the block
Hopefully your engine will last a good long time after the head swap. If the bottom end fails, it would be my educated guess the heads will be fine. We probably won't ever show how to rebuild a block because of the learning curve and specialty tools necessary. An engine machine shop does a lot of the work for this process. Basically, it would be impossible for me to learn everything that goes into a properly machined and built engine block that I could teach to our audience.
What a job👏. I didint take the belt of just top half leaving water pump and crankshaft gear alone. Putting the belt on is proving difficult. Seems like it's too tight to slip the passenger sprocket on. Any suggestions? Is the belt tangled up in the crankshaft gear?
Well, this is one of the reasons why Sean and I did it the way we did it. The Worse than Chiggers UA-cam channel guy did it the way you did it, and I assume you followed his lead. If you know nothing about his series, I provided a link to it in the video description. Maybe you can glean some tips from his video. It would have to be the last or second to the last video in the series.
@@TimmyTheToolman i did use his lol. Now I think I'll take it off completely. Thanks again for the quick reply and the great content
If you have a body lift you can drop the radiator down a bit there’s some holes already in the radiator support that like up perfectly to hold it in place with the pins to go through and threads for the top two holes already. If you’re a perfectionist you can drill some out for the bottom two holes. Just a fun fact.
Thanks for the fun fact.
Dont forget to add engine oil!!!! 😂
That's coming in Part 7 in a few days.
@@TimmyTheToolmando you use castrol? Just curious
@pitchforkpeasant6219 Yes, I do. I'm not sure what Sean uses.
Wondering where did your order the parts for this job I meant the belt and the rest thanks
We got it all through Yota1 Performance.
Oh Timmy what a great series of videos for this repair, you guys are awesome... I own a 1998 Prado here in Australia with this engine V6 5VZ-FE, haven't gone beyond the coolant bypass pipe, but this definitely inspire me to do the head gasket my my own when the times arises... Touching wood 301,000 miles on the clock and going strong. An off topic question, Do you know the oil consumption in this engine? of course in condition of no leaking anywhere?
Thanks for the compliment. It's great to know our video series gave you the confidence to dig deeper into your engine when the time comes.
My 3rd Gen 4runner with around 250k miles doesn't really consume oil. If anything, maybe 1/4 of a quart over 5k miles. If the piston rings are doing their job, there shouldn't be any oil consumption to speak of. If you're consuming oil, it means oil is getting past the piston rings.
So i was torquing the alternator adjuster to the specied torque value of 25ft lbs. It reached about 20ft lbs and the stretcjed/broke the slider bolt. Before i get a new one i wanted to confirm the 25ft Lbs is in fact correct. I came across a post on 4Runner forums were the same thing happened to someone else. Not questioning your accuracy just wanted to make sure I was right. Thanks!
Yeah, it's not uncommon that there are misprints in the Toyota FSMs. But, 25 ft-lbs doesn't seem excessive for this application. I've seen some gross errors like foot pounds was put in place for inch pounds for the auto trans pan bolts.
@@TimmyTheToolman I agree. Just strange that it stretched the bolt. It's a 1997 so maybe the metals just old? 😀
@@TimmyTheToolman when I get a replacement, would you still shoot for 25 ft lb if you or me?
@tpatrickwilson65 Who knows. Another possibility is that your torque wrench is way out of calibration.
@tpatrickwilson65 If I were you, I'd just tighten it by feel and use your best judgment.