You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
I reviewed a video stating that the sensor should be reading 16.3k ohm or 16.6 kOhm. My sensor (exact number on this video) was reading 13.4k Ohm. I bought a replacement brand new sensor thinking mine is bad, but the new sensor read exactly 13.4 kOhm (when placed in icy water for 5 minutes - or 32F) So 32F resistance on this sensor is 13.4 kOhm. Side note, My fridge GE PSS25SGNA BS was not defrosting. I replaced sensors, heater, thermostat.. only to find that one of the relay pins on the controller board had become unsoldered. Clean and apply new solder and the fridge is as good as new.
Some brands have different values for resistance. On ge there should be around 16 for 32 degrees + or - 5% altho some say 10%. You can put your fridge in service mode and it will test them for you and tell you p for pass and 0 for fail
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
When you join the wires together with wire nuts...does it matter how you match up the wires for the new bulb? Like...if you numbered the wires 1 and 2...would it matter which wire went where when you wire this back up? Or would it function the same if you reversed the wires?
Samsung RS263TDPN refrigerator, Freezer wont cool, fridge side is working, no frost formation on freezer or fridge coils. Sir what do you think the problem is?
He so check this out...my coils were freezing over and I found the thermostat physically coming apart. So I replaced that. 3 weeks later same problem. So I then replaced the thermistor and the heater at the same time. Now the defrost cycle lasts too long I think. Actually starts to thaw things in the freezer. Specifically the ice cubes melt a little then get all stuck together. What could be the problem?
@@christopherreilly3261 theres actually 2 thermistors in the freezer section. check the bottom left of freezer section near the drain hole for another thermistor and if damaged, replace that.
@@Mr.Mashup might not be a defrost problem. might be your compressor not turning on. i would try changing out the start relay if its not getting cold. worst come to worst might have to replace the main board. these are just guess though since i dono exactly where the problem lies
Its easy to check to 32F with ice cubes in cup, room temp 70 F same ez check with ohm meter, BUT the real check is down to -15F where the knockoff discount sensors Fail, at least buy the 2 for the FRZR from some place pro like mercane" or applianceparts.com TYpically they are the same part # anymore. Also modern fridges are made to run about 90% of the time *yeah strange * but they have pro rated compressor motor speeds depending on needs (get a KillaWatt meter and watch how at start up it draws alot of power but later very little (my electric bill did not go up)... Worst case you can get a simple 24 hour timer and make it cycle on/off every 30 min to get you by until the GOOD SENSORS FROM PRO PARTS gets to you. YOu will waste ALOT of TIME if you try discount temp sensors and buy a new fridge when its not needed. Don't buy from amazon for this critical item.
I've tested the thermistor at the control board. Unplugged the connector from the main board. Thermistor still had ice around it. Well it read 00.0ohms. I take it this is faulty? Took thermistor out and tested it in ice, it read 13ohms. Is it faulty? I've replaced anyways. I believe it was the thermistor that has something to do with defrosting cycle. Any help would be appreciated.
Its easy to check to 32F with ice cubes in cup, room temp 70 F same ez check with ohm meter, BUT the real check is down to -15F where the knockoff discount sensors Fail, at least buy the 2 for the FRZR from some place pro like mercane" or applianceparts.com TYpically they are the same part # anymore. Also modern fridges are made to run about 90% of the time *yeah strange * but they have pro rated compressor motor speeds depending on needs (get a KillaWatt meter and watch how at start up it draws alot of power but later very little (my electric bill did not go up)... Worst case you can get a simple 24 hour timer and make it cycle on/off every 30 min to get you by until the GOOD SENSORS FROM PRO PARTS gets to you. YOu will waste ALOT of TIME if you try discount temp sensors and buy a new fridge when its not needed. Don't buy from amazon for this critical item.
1. Are the thermistors the same for freezer and refrigerator compartment? 2. Are the thermistor wires interchangable, there is no polarity (no positive nor negative)?
There is no polarity. Thermistor is like a resistor. No polarity. But there is many kind of thermistor. Two basic type is NTC and PTC one is positive changing and one is negative changing resistivity when temperature drop/or rise/. In fridge is almost all thermistor the same. About 10k ohm at 20Celsius. But some are NTC some PTC. Many newer fridge have NTC, but you must test it...I test it with glas of cold and hot water...1. measure with cold than with hot water and you know hat type is use. And one recommandition. Use heat shrink with glue inside and solder the wires. Wires can oxide and when there is some other type od wire, it work like " battery" and make false reading of temperature. When you use solder, and good heatshrink, there is no problem.
PUB # 31-9072 01/01 find it and follow diagnostics mode ie on my fridge I put both temp adjust on 5 5 then press all four at once, it blinks for diagnostic mode , you can force it to defrost mode using code 1 4 and push ice cube button etc. if if fails to defrost follow diag flow chart ie defroster heater bad, or def Tstat bad, or main board bad, YOu can get a main board for $140if you look around. Cheers. Now is a good day to turn your life over to working for Peace Not War ; o yeah, simply unplug fridge to cause reset.
how do apply a silicone for sealing connections of the thermistor if it dries way too long& If won't dry because when you turn on the fridge, the evaporator will start freezing the cameras inside. A plus some silicodes and not molf resistant. This video is for DIY and take your own risk for this job. There are new wire seals called insulated termoresistant seals
You right i wrote it above. Use heat shrink with glue inside and solder the wires. Wires can oxide and when there is some other type of wire, or moisture, it work like " battery" and make false reading of temperature. When you use solder, and good heatshrink, there is no problem.
Best is soldered with shrink wrap, frzr has constantly every day defrost cycle that showers the lower temp sensor thermistor with water,, yeah = flakey ops.
did not think about replacing the one in the top, just got one for the freezer. My fridge just wont turn on the defroster so i gotta defrost it with water every 3 days. I replaced the defrost thermostat and that didnt work so im gonna see if this will mend it.
@@Mr.Pop0 hopefully different results for me then. This is my new refrigerator and I've already replaced the thermometer and heating element and still having defrost issues so this is the last thing for me to try!
Thanks, good vid, there is another temp sensor thermistor in bottom left of freezer, you can see the white wires in you video. check out how to easily check the system using touch control panel and even force DFrost on from panel buttons at my video; John doe videos on youtube. But beware the diagnostic function seems to only check for continuity in the temp sensors (thermistors), not that they are the exact right resistance.
@@tee228 Top Frzr one is EVAP to make sure it getting down to like -15F, the bottom frzr one is to see where it settles out ie -5 to +5F, the fresh food section has 1 or 2 to make sure it getting down to 40F approx. BEWARE: do not buy from discount houses as they only work right down to 20F after that they don't get it right so your fridge runs flakey or not at all. repairman will tell you that it costs more to fix than to buy a new $1000 and up one (ie $2400); Not so, if you go to a pro place (not a pro bc one sold me an amazon knockoff, saying he saves the real mcCoys for his own customers, lol, he did apologize but it can waste DAYs of your time; WHERE TO BUY: Mercane, ApplianceProParts.com etc. Genuine GE HOTpoint T Sensors have 2 green stripes on the wires, the wires are pre stripped but the last bit of insulation is still there AND the bag has a BLUE 4x4" square on it, if you get one in a ziplock back with a preprinted label, throw it away, its junk, I think these discount dealers as AMazon said source from same crummy Discount Sales warehouse and they are probably buying ones that failed QC at the factory. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. ALSO if you do replace all with REAL GE sensor, either solder them in with shrink wrap to prevent eddy currents from giving bad readings or if you have no other way; use wire caps but be sure to fill the wire cap with clear silicone and smooth it in with a flat knife or other filling in every last air gap, YOu are better to solder/shrink wrap in the frz bc its so wet in there that the corrosion and eddy currents are crazy and will drive you crazy until you wife demands a new fridge or else Divorce, lol.
@@InventPeace1 lol i did use an after market thermistor. i also changed out the main board and start relay and nothing has worked. i don't have anything left to lose by trying out OEM. just ordered. hope it works
@@tee228 Get the publication I replied to you 31-9072 Google search it; docshare.tips/31-9072-arctica-profile-ge-side-by-side-refrigerator-service-manual-copy_58288ea2b6d87fa5ac8b4b4c.html Get your thermistors only from Mercane or AppliacneProParts, NOT amazon or ebay; the discount thermistors are the rejects from factory. pgs 35 starts you to diagnose more easily the problems. GraceAppliance may be able to direct you as well. After you set temp adjust on front panel to 5 5 & then press all 4 at once until they start blinking 0 0 , then you can enter code 1 4 then press the ice cube button, it shoud force it to DEFROST mode, turn of kitchen lights and open freezer door, you should be able to see an orange "glow" near bottom towards back inside the freezer, ; this would be a good sign that the main board relay is working and the defrost heater is good (glowing hot), if not consider new def heater, & def thermostat. The thermistors should be replaced every 12 years since they "drift" = go bad over time.. yeah electronic stuff is very bad sometimes. I prefer basic controls without any glitzy garbage that will just go wrong in time. Email me at InventPeace@aol.com if you are desperate
Joseph Nicholas A thermistor is a type of resistor whose resistance is dependent on temperature, more so than in standard resistors. The word is a portmanteau of thermal and resistor.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
i LOVE this channel.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
I reviewed a video stating that the sensor should be reading 16.3k ohm or 16.6 kOhm. My sensor (exact number on this video) was reading 13.4k Ohm. I bought a replacement brand new sensor thinking mine is bad, but the new sensor read exactly 13.4 kOhm (when placed in icy water for 5 minutes - or 32F) So 32F resistance on this sensor is 13.4 kOhm. Side note, My fridge GE PSS25SGNA BS was not defrosting. I replaced sensors, heater, thermostat.. only to find that one of the relay pins on the controller board had become unsoldered. Clean and apply new solder and the fridge is as good as new.
Some brands have different values for resistance. On ge there should be around 16 for 32 degrees + or - 5% altho some say 10%. You can put your fridge in service mode and it will test them for you and tell you p for pass and 0 for fail
There may also be another thermistor located in the bottom of the freezer on certain models for a total of three.
Is this sensor the same for the freezer and for the fresh food compartment ?
Thank you.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
I have a GE French door bottom freezer fridge and it say sensor 2 has failed, which is the air thermistor? Where would it be?
When you join the wires together with wire nuts...does it matter how you match up the wires for the new bulb? Like...if you numbered the wires 1 and 2...would it matter which wire went where when you wire this back up? Or would it function the same if you reversed the wires?
Samsung RS263TDPN refrigerator, Freezer wont cool, fridge side is working, no frost formation on freezer or fridge coils. Sir what do you think the problem is?
which one is positive and which one is negative or does that not matter? I didnt see it mentioned in the video.
@@repairclinic thank you!
He so check this out...my coils were freezing over and I found the thermostat physically coming apart. So I replaced that. 3 weeks later same problem. So I then replaced the thermistor and the heater at the same time. Now the defrost cycle lasts too long I think. Actually starts to thaw things in the freezer. Specifically the ice cubes melt a little then get all stuck together. What could be the problem?
@@christopherreilly3261 theres actually 2 thermistors in the freezer section. check the bottom left of freezer section near the drain hole for another thermistor and if damaged, replace that.
I have the same problem and I changed both thermistors and thermostat and still the defrost cycle lasts too long
@@Mr.Mashup might not be a defrost problem. might be your compressor not turning on. i would try changing out the start relay if its not getting cold. worst come to worst might have to replace the main board. these are just guess though since i dono exactly where the problem lies
We have need more information about the senser resistance how to check..
Its easy to check to 32F with ice cubes in cup, room temp 70 F same ez check with ohm meter, BUT the real check is down to -15F where the knockoff discount sensors Fail, at least buy the 2 for the FRZR from some place pro like mercane" or applianceparts.com TYpically they are the same part # anymore. Also modern fridges are made to run about 90% of the time *yeah strange * but they have pro rated compressor motor speeds depending on needs (get a KillaWatt meter and watch how at start up it draws alot of power but later very little (my electric bill did not go up)... Worst case you can get a simple 24 hour timer and make it cycle on/off every 30 min to get you by until the GOOD SENSORS FROM PRO PARTS gets to you. YOu will waste ALOT of TIME if you try discount temp sensors and buy a new fridge when its not needed. Don't buy from amazon for this critical item.
I've tested the thermistor at the control board. Unplugged the connector from the main board. Thermistor still had ice around it. Well it read 00.0ohms. I take it this is faulty? Took thermistor out and tested it in ice, it read 13ohms. Is it faulty? I've replaced anyways. I believe it was the thermistor that has something to do with defrosting cycle. Any help would be appreciated.
Its easy to check to 32F with ice cubes in cup, room temp 70 F same ez check with ohm meter, BUT the real check is down to -15F where the knockoff discount sensors Fail, at least buy the 2 for the FRZR from some place pro like mercane" or applianceparts.com TYpically they are the same part # anymore. Also modern fridges are made to run about 90% of the time *yeah strange * but they have pro rated compressor motor speeds depending on needs (get a KillaWatt meter and watch how at start up it draws alot of power but later very little (my electric bill did not go up)... Worst case you can get a simple 24 hour timer and make it cycle on/off every 30 min to get you by until the GOOD SENSORS FROM PRO PARTS gets to you. YOu will waste ALOT of TIME if you try discount temp sensors and buy a new fridge when its not needed. Don't buy from amazon for this critical item.
Which Silicon sealant do you recommend using ? Also , how do get to the motherboard for a GE Adora DSS25KSRSS
Thanks
1. Are the thermistors the same for freezer and refrigerator compartment?
2. Are the thermistor wires interchangable, there is no polarity (no positive nor negative)?
There is no polarity. Thermistor is like a resistor. No polarity. But there is many kind of thermistor. Two basic type is NTC and PTC one is positive changing and one is negative changing resistivity when temperature drop/or rise/. In fridge is almost all thermistor the same. About 10k ohm at 20Celsius. But some are NTC some PTC. Many newer fridge have NTC, but you must test it...I test it with glas of cold and hot water...1. measure with cold than with hot water and you know hat type is use. And one recommandition. Use heat shrink with glue inside and solder the wires. Wires can oxide and when there is some other type od wire, it work like " battery" and make false reading of temperature. When you use solder, and good heatshrink, there is no problem.
PUB # 31-9072 01/01 find it and follow diagnostics mode ie on my fridge I put both temp adjust on 5 5 then press all four at once, it blinks for diagnostic mode , you can force it to defrost mode using code 1 4 and push ice cube button etc. if if fails to defrost follow diag flow chart ie defroster heater bad, or def Tstat bad, or main board bad, YOu can get a main board for $140if you look around. Cheers. Now is a good day to turn your life over to working for Peace Not War ; o yeah, simply unplug fridge to cause reset.
how do apply a silicone for sealing connections of the thermistor if it dries way too long& If won't dry because when you turn on the fridge, the evaporator will start freezing the cameras inside. A plus some silicodes and not molf resistant. This video is for DIY and take your own risk for this job.
There are new wire seals called insulated termoresistant seals
You should never use a wire but in a moist environment. You want to use butt crimp terminals that are heat shrinking.
You right i wrote it above. Use heat shrink with glue inside and solder the wires. Wires can oxide and when there is some other type of wire, or moisture, it work like " battery" and make false reading of temperature. When you use solder, and good heatshrink, there is no problem.
Best is soldered with shrink wrap, frzr has constantly every day defrost cycle that showers the lower temp sensor thermistor with water,, yeah = flakey ops.
did not think about replacing the one in the top, just got one for the freezer. My fridge just wont turn on the defroster so i gotta defrost it with water every 3 days. I replaced the defrost thermostat and that didnt work so im gonna see if this will mend it.
When no defrost, you must check defrost thermistor, defrost heater/when is use in fridge/ and defrost releay/or triac/....
Did it work???
@@sundevil4life83 nope, got a new fridge last year that now has different defrost problems.
@@Mr.Pop0 hopefully different results for me then. This is my new refrigerator and I've already replaced the thermometer and heating element and still having defrost issues so this is the last thing for me to try!
Thanks, good vid, there is another temp sensor thermistor in bottom left of freezer, you can see the white wires in you video. check out how to easily check the system using touch control panel and even force DFrost on from panel buttons at my video; John doe videos on youtube. But beware the diagnostic function seems to only check for continuity in the temp sensors (thermistors), not that they are the exact right resistance.
what is the bottom sensor for? i have one of those too, but not sure if i should replace it.
@@tee228 Top Frzr one is EVAP to make sure it getting down to like -15F, the bottom frzr one is to see where it settles out ie -5 to +5F, the fresh food section has 1 or 2 to make sure it getting down to 40F approx. BEWARE: do not buy from discount houses as they only work right down to 20F after that they don't get it right so your fridge runs flakey or not at all. repairman will tell you that it costs more to fix than to buy a new $1000 and up one (ie $2400); Not so, if you go to a pro place (not a pro bc one sold me an amazon knockoff, saying he saves the real mcCoys for his own customers, lol, he did apologize but it can waste DAYs of your time; WHERE TO BUY: Mercane, ApplianceProParts.com etc. Genuine GE HOTpoint T Sensors have 2 green stripes on the wires, the wires are pre stripped but the last bit of insulation is still there AND the bag has a BLUE 4x4" square on it, if you get one in a ziplock back with a preprinted label, throw it away, its junk, I think these discount dealers as AMazon said source from same crummy Discount Sales warehouse and they are probably buying ones that failed QC at the factory. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. ALSO if you do replace all with REAL GE sensor, either solder them in with shrink wrap to prevent eddy currents from giving bad readings or if you have no other way; use wire caps but be sure to fill the wire cap with clear silicone and smooth it in with a flat knife or other filling in every last air gap, YOu are better to solder/shrink wrap in the frz bc its so wet in there that the corrosion and eddy currents are crazy and will drive you crazy until you wife demands a new fridge or else Divorce, lol.
@@InventPeace1 lol i did use an after market thermistor. i also changed out the main board and start relay and nothing has worked. i don't have anything left to lose by trying out OEM. just ordered. hope it works
@@tee228 Get the publication I replied to you 31-9072 Google search it; docshare.tips/31-9072-arctica-profile-ge-side-by-side-refrigerator-service-manual-copy_58288ea2b6d87fa5ac8b4b4c.html Get your thermistors only from Mercane or AppliacneProParts, NOT amazon or ebay; the discount thermistors are the rejects from factory. pgs 35 starts you to diagnose more easily the problems. GraceAppliance may be able to direct you as well. After you set temp adjust on front panel to 5 5 & then press all 4 at once until they start blinking 0 0 , then you can enter code 1 4 then press the ice cube button, it shoud force it to DEFROST mode, turn of kitchen lights and open freezer door, you should be able to see an orange "glow" near bottom towards back inside the freezer, ; this would be a good sign that the main board relay is working and the defrost heater is good (glowing hot), if not consider new def heater, & def thermostat. The thermistors should be replaced every 12 years since they "drift" = go bad over time.. yeah electronic stuff is very bad sometimes. I prefer basic controls without any glitzy garbage that will just go wrong in time. Email me at InventPeace@aol.com if you are desperate
0:52 PRO
I'm
Why are you calling this a thermistor, its a resistive temperature sensor for the microcontroller.
Joseph Nicholas A thermistor is a type of resistor whose resistance is dependent on temperature, more so than in standard resistors. The word is a portmanteau of thermal and resistor.