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First use: Vevor 7x14 mini lathe
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- Опубліковано 17 лют 2023
- Vevor 7x14 mini lathe
Why are test pieces called COUPONS: sbs727.wordpre...
What to expect: • The $600 Mini Lathe - ...
After some use and adjustments: • Vevor 7x14 mini Lathe ...
Scary stuff your trying rite there as a machinist of 30 years this scared me I know it’s fun to have a lathe I have a few at home myself . The internet is a wonderful resource to learn new things please please please take advantage of the resource I wish you all the best on your new hobby stay safe
I have several videos of my progress. Thanks for viewing,
A agree just because it fits in the chuck doesn’t mean it’s safe to turn.
Mate, you need to centre drill the end of the rebar before you can use the dead centre in your tail stock, I would suggest you watch some videos on using a mini lathe before you go any further.
I'm getting there. Slow but sure. Thanks for the comment.
Sorry mate, but i hurts to see the way you use this late. You need to cut the end of that long piece at a 90 degree angle,drill a dead center hole and use the tail stock to hold the steel rod stable. You are lucky you dident got hurt doing what you did in this video. Please !
It was my first use.
An ex machinist here, my heart was in my mouth here.
1. Always wear safety glasses, you had a t shirt but no rings or loose clothing near that rotating chuck, that will just plain out kill you. And know how to stop your machine before you use it i.e. how to hit the emergency stop button. ( common sense stuff)
2. Spend a lot of time before hand considering what you want to do and achieve. Pre plan it out and re-itterate and adjust your steps util it is good.
3.for example, do you think it was a good idea turning that small diameter id say 1/2" to 3/4" that far from the chuck? This is where some bending moments theory comes into play. For the less theoretical people its the old spring board analogy, ie if the part was only 1" sticking out the chuck would the deflection when you stuck that high carbon tool into it have been less or more.. obv less. As a general rule of thumb i would only have that sticking out the chuck by 3x its outside diameter any more unsupported you could get shaft whip depending on spindle rpm, this is a harmonical frequency that is dependant on a lot of things but speed lets us dual it in.This is especialy dangerous and can make your whole machine destroy itself (look it up online for a more indepth analysis). Any more you would need as you mentioned a live centre or a rolling centre that fits to your lathe and supports the back of the rod as you cut it. Especialy usefull here to stop the material from deflecting.
4. I know you didnt have a live centre but you could have turned to a point a piece of brass or better phos bronze or anything is better than nothing, but brass and phosphor bronze are self lubricating (bit of material science topic to look up) and stuck that in the chuck as a dead centre ( yes you could have turned and made a live centre but first outing and all.
5. Stick your material as close to the chuck face as possible and drill a centre drill (you may want these if you dont have them , dirt cheap).
6. Set up your running centre attachment if you have one. Pull the piece out past the desired 3x the od lenght and support the far end with the dead centre you made and adjust the running centre. Take small cuts and continously adjust / ensure there us tension on the dead centre and your running centre is supported.
One thing I forgot was tool setup and type, steel and rebar could benefir from a tungsten tipped tool. Keep clearances and rakes to minimal and most importantly set tool centre height correctly, you can look up online there are plenty of machinist videos.
Most importantly spend the time beforehand considering what your trying to achieve.
Good luck to you and I hope you get some years of pleasure from machining and learning as everyday is a school day as they say.
Nice Free class !! Thank you !!!
@@EnricoMarangonJunior Always happy to help anyone.
Don’t plug the lathe into your cord reel. The wire gauge is too small and too long. You’ll burn out your motor. If you must use an extension cord use the heaviest cord you can (12 ga. Or even 10 ga.) so you get all the power from your lathe.
66 retired machinist and I can't begin to tell you how many things you did wrong here. Your lucky you didn't get hurt or distroy your little lathe.
It was my first use. View later videos to see my progress.
Mate if you have so much knowledge why not offer some advice?
당신은 많이 무려하군요. 어디서 그런 태도를 배웠습니까 ? BTS의 나라 대한민국 국민인 저로써는 이해할수 없는 무려하고 불쾌한 태도입니다. 누구에게나 처음은 있습니다. 부족한 부분이 있다면 당신이 조근조근 상냥하게 알려 드려도 충분히 이해할 만큼 연륜과 경험이 쌓여 있는 할아버지 친구입니다. 이분은 ㅇㅇ 그치
IThe first mistake you made was buying that VEVOR lathe. The second mistake was taking it out of the crate. I’m trying to return my VEVOR lathe. It came damaged, and has stripped threads, and a defective spindle (threaded crooked on the gear end, causing over .015 pinion gear runout. Totally unusable piece of junk. I’m only hoping they will take it back. I would stick with plastic, aluminum, brass and copper. I ordered the 1100 watt version of the 7/16. The description on the VEVOR site said it was a high precision machine (not even close) that could turn hard and soft metals. When I opened up the manual that came with the lathe, it said it was for soft materials only,such as plastic, aluminum, brass, etc. Good luck with yours.
@@rodgraff1782 My deepest condolences for your stress.
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice lathe
Thanks and welcome
Lots of people are saying to watch a few videos of others. Please buy a book on basic turning. It will teach you far more than watching any video. You do need to learn some basic theory first. As for a long length of rebar, that nobly stuff is a very poor place to start. If you must, then 3" worth will do. But please only take small cuts.
I've taken to heart the comments and improved output.
Hi friend,this is from anyear ago. i am doing the same learning at my 6_'s and no shame no regret at all: i began with small rebar and learn shouldn't be more than 3 -4 inches and the worse are the two lines beside the "seeds": remive with a grinder but my two advises: use or try if your pocket let you buy new bar sae 1010,or 1020or 1040 or 1045 or eve 4140 without heat treatment.rebar are not so hard but very dificilt because its form even for experienced people with big lathe,2)put higher the lathe almost under your elbows or will pain your back. Hope see you in the fight next videos!!!
I love seeing people getting into the world of machining, its an incredible field and a passion of mine, my advice to you is to start watching machinist videos on UA-cam, theres so much excellent content at your finger tips and you can learn everything you need to, i definitely wouldn't start with rebar, especially with that much stick out, get some aluminum round stock, and go start watching videos on the basics, This Old Tony is great, Abom79, ClickSpring, Keith Rucker, watch lots of videos on the basics, I don't want you to get discouraged trying to turn rebar with 10" of stick out, good luck, be safe and enjoy, you can do an awful lot of really good work with a mini lathe once you learn how to use it and make some upgrades, have fun!
Thanks for the video. I just got mine last night - exact model. The problem with the tailstock is that the base is incorrectly ground so it doesn't sit flush. I will attempt to shim the back side of the tailstock baseplate to get it level. To learn a bit about machining, watch Abom79 and his friends.
I think they all require some tinkering.
First golden rule of every lathe machinist: whenever you haven't the slightest idea of what you’re doing, wipe your fingers on a cloth.
If you had only an inch sticking out of the chuck you could centre drill the end and then support the end with the tail stock centre when turning. Otherwise it’s too whippy!
I have several videos of my progress. Thanks for viewing,
Mamamia....
I think he will destroy this little lathe machine.... 😂
Still working.
I, in my eighties now, have long wanted to have a mini lathe. Long ago, in the mid 1950s, I had an opportunity to learn a little about lathe work. I made a riveter's hammer which I still have today. I'd like to use what I learned then and learn more now. But I have a sense of caution about these little Chinese made lathes. I don't mind buying one but I want the brand to be associated with a proper storefront here in the US. I do not want to simply buy from a broker who works with many other brands and who can only be reached via telephone. I want to be able to drive to a location and speak with a human being face to face. So my choices are limited. For the reasons cited I will probably buy from Little Machine Shop. I do like PM products but do they have a showroom. When I want to know about the quality of a lathe I look for the period of warrantee. Most are one year only. A higher quality machine will offer more time.
In the meanwhile I keep watching these videos. I must admit I don't like the idea of change gears at all. A lot of fussing about just to cut one thread. Better I think to simply chuck up a die and do it that way. If I were to spend more I'd shop for a gear head machine. Well these are just thoughts. I have all the time in the world to decide.
You would enjoy a mini lathe as long as 7x14 would be big enough.
Sústruh vevor je pekný na výstavu,ale na prácu je to šrot 😂
You are going to have a BAD accident right there my friend! You MUST have a live center to do what you are trying to do, Or you chuck it up closer to the spindle and turn like 1" at a time until you have the length you want, But with rebar that might be a problem as well trying to keep it concentric.
In most cases I did.
Machining is a skill, ppi is also important
I suggest a great utube video series (of 31 short articles) for you. they were very informative for me.
Cool, thanks!
If you dont know how to use a lathe ,Don't!!!!!! You could have been seriouly injured the moment you started to machine that rebar without centre drilling the end.
I understand that. More often than not I do center drill the tail stock and and use a live center. I do, however, not use when truing in end of the bar. Then I drill and use live center. BTW since that video was made I've turned about 20 feet of rebar.
I understand that you're a newbie to all of this, but you should do some reading and watching of videos before you do anymore turning. You are putting yourself at too much risk of being seriously injured. For one, you should wear safety Eyewear. And never go cutting on any piece of metal that is wobbling as that one is. It's just too unsafe. 😮
think about taking a machinist course at a community college. take the watch off, wear better shoes.
The local college has a waiting list. I'm 76 years old and long retired. The young folks who need to make a living need it more than me. It's stricky a passtime for me. Thanks for the comment.
After a month of working with it......can you say you are happy with the results you are getting?
Yes, given my lack of experience. The more I learn the better it gets. I'm a hobbyist.
@@gmsoptions Me too, no sweat. I started with too soft too wide alu, wrong chuck...
Ensure that only about 1 and 1 1/2 inches of round bar is petruding out of the Chuck or you must drill a centre hole with a centre drill, first mill the face of the round bar, then centre drill then live centre. The max of depth of cut in hard ended steal is about 2000 th. Your metal is too far from the chuck. Best of luck?
I'm making progress. I have tightened up the jibes. Since I'm using scrap metal crescent in the hydraulic press to get it mostly straight has been the biggest. You are absolutely right on steel I can only take off a little at a time. I'm doing relatively small statuary I just need to smooth and true the rebar and the scrap threaded rods. When I get enough of that stuff cleaned up for you I'll try to do a video showing what I'm actually doing with it. This is not precision stuff. ☺️
Congratulations on posting the scariest machining video ever.
Do a UA-cam search for "Lathe Skills", before you do yourself (and the machine) some serious damage.
If you view the later videos you'll see I'm getting the hang of it. ua-cam.com/play/PLt9xK2WyAZiMJYvcVpF1mZmoAkvaU9cGL.html
Thanks for the tutorial, gonna buy one.
Read Stupid is.... ua-cam.com/video/BBOFZO4k4ec/v-deo.html
Please watch some mini lathe videos uit will help a lot
I have watched and they have been helpful. Putting those lessons to use has been rewarding.
Thanks for the comment.
How do I adjust the tool rest to cut tapers? It seems like it should rotate but it's not obvious how
I just turn the entire tool holder and then run the cut by hand. Slow and not precise. If needed I do the final taper with sand paper. I'm not sure I'd be able to create a taper for a chuck for example. I'm a hobbiest not a machiniest. I learn by doing, mistakes and all. If you achieve your objective please let me know. Thanks for view my videos.
Turn the compound slide all the way back to reveal two cap screws loosen and you can move to any angle desired .
Explique como hacer una rosca yo tengo un torno de esos pero no se como roscar
Nunca he hecho peldaños con este torno, en lugar de eso, solo uso machos de roscar y terrajas. Hay varios videos buenos publicados en UA-cam sobre este tema.
Also your compound and cross need adjusting and you also have too much stick out and slide it into the chuck a bit further.
Done, done and done. I'm really cranking out the product now. Thanks to everyone for the comments.
Nice little machine. You would have a nice time cutting aluminum over rebar. It would have scale on it. Nasty stuff to machine.
I was testing the limits of it. Turned about 24 feet of rebar. No problem, just had to take small cuts.
Firstly your swarf pan in upside down, secondly, your haven't snugged up any gibs, thirdly, you really should stick to using hand tools like files, they are safer.
I have snugged up the gibs. The swarf pan in intentionally put on that way but it you think it would enhance stability to put in on the other way I'd change it. The more experience I have with it the better it's performing. I've got to review the video which explains how to level the chuck. Right not it cuts deep on the stock nearest the chuck. The biggest improvement so far has been to straighten the bar stock. I now have a press to do that. Also, the quick change tool holder is a big improvement. I'm getting there and having a good time.
Thanks for you comment.
Do you eat your cereal with an upside down bowl too? It’s to collect chips/swarf/debris as they fall…The other comments are correct. You’re reaaaaally out of your element here. These machines can seriously hurt you. Watch a lot, a lot of UA-cam machinist videos. Safety first. And knowledge is safety. Machining isn’t the kind of hobby you just “jump into” without an prior knowledge. Or at least somebody with experience to guide you in.
call the paramedics
Not a single injury so far.
Hooked! 9" reed bar, psssh , lets go! Btw it's probably bend lol.
LOL
Look good on ya for having a go, but did you have a insert in the tool?
Oh yeah.
DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME. 1st of all it's not so much the hardness of the rod it's the interrupted cut, its length in comparison to dia., and not using a proper center drilled for the tailstock. These machines are not meant to be used like this. Machining is a skill and can be extremely dangerous. You sir should buy a book or watch other videos to get started or you will be soon missing fingers or worse. I couldn't even watch to the end seeing the initial setup.
Wtf dude.
it looks like that the chip tray is upside down. kind regards
Yes it is as I intented. This is addressed in replies to previous comments.
Isn’t vevor a great brand?
Other than one defect, easy to correct, it has met all my expectations.
@@gmsoptionswhat was the one defect?
The drive pully on the motor had a poorly drilled and tapped hole for the screw that should have fit into the keyway on the shaft. Easy to fix with JB Weld. I'll have to heat it up should I ever replace the gear. So far, so good. @@paulfrost8952
@@gmsoptions ah thanks for the heads up. Glad you sorted it.
I will second-third and forth the need to watch a few vids at the very least before you either damage your new machine or worse damage yourself.
Thanks for the comment. Have done and have made good progress.
I like your workshop. Looks like a bar converted in a workshop
Close. It's a Lanai, sometimes called a sun room. There are a lot of challenges in doing metal work in a 55+ retirement community.😮💨
@@gmsoptions I understand. Keep it up man
As a retired machinist and owner of said lathe had to stop watching,this guy damaging the machine and performing dangerous acts ,these videos should be barred before someone gets seriously injured !
Please wear some other shoes I wouldn’t want you to get hurt
I've already gotten hurt but with my plasma cutter. I set my shoe on fire. Took about 3 months to heal. Now then doing something that causes metal melting I wear good shoes. Thanks for the comment.
Very poorly done, first you must get a dial micrometer to center the rotation of the bar between points, second: the tool is not used like this, a proper adjustment and calibration must be done first
If you watch later videos you'll see I'm making progress.
25 years machinist experience and i would use this to show rookies how not to use a lathe.....good luck buddy.....i had to stop watching.
Thanks 👍
What in the world is going on here? 😮
Justing testing the limits
😂 that poor tooling.
You are right about that. I have learned a lot. Positioning the tool correctly is so important. I'm slowly getting the hang of it. The biggest challenge has been turning threaded rod since the tool wants to follow the thread. I've found using a file to take the tops off the threads helps. My objective was to turn scrap into something I can use. So far, so good.
You look clueless in machinery in just a twinkling of an eye,so watch out yourself.
Given you low power and belt design, it would likely stall out before doing too much damage. I wore face protection and refrained from getting my hands near moving parts. The biggest danger would be for part to come loose from chuck and have that hit me. I'm doing small pieces so while that would be painful it would not likely result in serious injury. I would not attempt to work with a machine shop power lathe. Thanks for you input.
Just watched this, don't just go out and buy a Lathe, join a model engineering club first, and my suggestion to you is lock that away before it seriously injures you,
It's safe compared with my Plasma Cutter ;-) Thanks for watching.