That exact lathe is available with steel gears for a few dollars more. I have the same lathe that I ordered with steel gears. I also bought a set of extra gears to cut metric threads. I bought a four jaw chuck and a face plate for my lathe. I also upgraded my tool post holder to a quick change turret. I purchased quite a few extras for my Vevor lathe. While restoring my C3 Corvette, this lathe and my Wen milling machine are great to have in my shop.
Did you just make this purchase recently ? I just saw that someone made a substantial purchase and was wondering what they bought, haha. ($566.24) that may be US dollars. Either way, good stuff !
Nice !! I've always wanted to upgrade my lathe (an mill) but it's a matter of money and space. The one I use is a 10x22, the size is ok for me, but it lacks features and rigidity.... still... I get a LOT of use out of it.
@@loweredexpectations4927 10 x 22 is great! My new one is honestly just so dang big and takes up a lot of space! 2000 lbs and hard to move around the garage! Pluses and minuses definitely! I think ideally I would love a 11x or 12x for space, weight and overall usability
Whilst seller was quick to ask for Feedback on my purchase, not providing a cutting tool meant a delay to trying it out. The Spindle Bore is only 21mm - would have been better at 26mm so 1" or 25mm std material could be used. The tailstock lock lever is really annoying interfering with back guard. I guess as a budget entry machine it is a good learning tool preparing you for your next purchase and what to look out for. Atleast the E-stop is up front where some larger machines I've seen you have to reach over the chuck to hit the stop - last thing you want to do is reach further into a machine area in an E-stop condition.
Thanks for the comment. I'm sure they are out there, but I have never seen a lathe that come with cutting tools. This is partly due to preference and variety of different tools. When I got my first machine, all hobby machinists used high speed steel, as insert tooling was WAY too much money, so you actually had to learn how to make tools before you could use your lathe, haha. I totally agree with the spindle bore. A larger bore is of course always better, but my 10 x 22 lathe also has a 3/4 (19mm) spindle. This is because with a large bore, you either reduce rigidity or require a larger OD on the spindle, and an larger spindle. Larger spindle = more cost and larger casting required. These lathes are a good way to learn how to use a lathe, and also open up possibilities that are not possible in the home shop without one. A lot of people upgrade machine tools shortly after getting their first, because the original ones open your eyes to what is possible. I started with a 10x22 lathe, and I think it is perfect for me, but it takes up a lot more space, can't easily be moved by one person and cost about 3 times as much.
@@huntz3215 Yes, it is the likely the pulley moving on the motor shaft due to the tension of the belt. If you put some thread locker on the pulley and shaft this may solve it.
They are a really handy tool to have around the shop, and a great way to get into mechening. I think most people who own them learn how to use them by building improvements for the lathe itself.
The EU version comes with metal gears installed. A few years ago I bought a similar mini lathe from HBM in the Netherlands, the 180 Vario which they still sell.
Great video! I'm going to buy one of lathe like this just because i think it would work fine for my small projects and because its fun to work with a lathe. I have not used a lathe since college but i still hasn't forgot how to use one
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes i would think they work great, it looks like that in your video. I'm not going to start a fabrication business i'm only going to use it to make some bushings or smaller bolts i would have need for and maybe some other small stuff for my projects
Yeah... they are great little machines. Dustin was saying (as a guy who has never used a lathe) that I should make a video talking about some of the limitations and considerations... For someone like myself, who has used a athe for several years, I kinda take something for granted that likely isn't clear to the average person. You see numbers like 7x14 and imagine turning a chunk of metal that is 7x14... but there are a lot of factors that come into play. There are a million little tricks to getting the most out of your lathe, be it a 7x14 or 14x48.... and the learning curve usually involves making a lot of mistakes and watching a LOT of UA-cam videos, haha. Sorry for the long ass response !!
I have one of these lathes in fact the same one and have had it for over two years now it gets a lot of work and I am still running plastic gears and never had a problem, I do how ever have a full set of metal just incase but for now I am just going to keep running the plastic gears.
Haha... yes... I think there are two factors that come into play with the plastic gears. 1. How many times and how hard you crash your tool into something with the half nut engaged. A lot of new users get these lathes so that is more common than it would be with a $4000 lathe, haha. 2. If the gears are already stressed from being pressed on. Some of them seem to be quite undersized. If they are already stretched / stressed then it doesn't take much additional force to cause them to fail.
This lathe can easily take off 3-5mm of steel at once if rebuilt and calibrated. There are dedicated channels about this lathe. I have similar. Just didnt have time to work on it atm, later
Great video, I have a great like for Vevor, and have several great deals from them. Check your angle setting on the compound, its travel should be just a bit inside parallel of the angle of the cutting edge of the threading tool , making one cutting edge doing the bulk of the work. Enjoyed and subbed, cheers!
I've been benefitting from these videos over the past two years. I want to buy a little lathe just for fun. I haven't used a metal lathe since I was in high school in 1957. Doesn't matter. I'll have fun. I have definitely decided to not buy price. I'll allow six thousand or so for the lathe and accessaries / addons. Maybe more. The size? At least 10 x 20 inches. I don't want a lathe that has ball bearings on the spindle. Tapered rollers is much better. Will I select a gear head? Maybe. Haven't decided. I have an idea that I'll do lots of threading. Changing gears all the time doesn't thrill me much. I don't think I need a digital display. Speed adjusting seems more intuitive to me. I like Proxxon but they are too small. Otherwise their quality seems above average. I like Sherline quite a lot. Not sure though. On their website they don't provide prices but instead offer financing. They want to sell you on a product and later tell you what the damage will be. This usually means they are pricey. I don't mind spending but I don't want to have to search for the rest of my life to find out what something costs. Why do they hide it? Maybe because of the current inflation.... it changes a lot? So far I am leaning towards the one from Taiwan. Precision Matthews 1228 model with dro and a box of goodies to make it even more fun. This one runs on 110vac single phase with a variable speed DC motor. Seems just right. Any larger lathe from PM needs 240vac and maybe three phase too. I don't need all that sophistication in my garage. Watching all these videos is almost as much fun as having the machine all set up and ready for ???? I have no idea what I'll use it for. I guess I will find out later. May as well get a little mill while I'm at it. Why not? Fun fun fun... The reader can tell I'm the fussy type. It's true. Why not? After all this talk I'll probably end up buying a Harbor Freight 14 inch. ha ha... Well, I can have fun on that model too.
Precision matthews has some great stuff and they are great to deal with. I bought a milling machine from them, and have heard nothing but good things. LOL... we all want a big fancy lathe ... but the fact that we don't all have one means we come up with reasons not to go through with it. It is a little harder to justify if you don't' even know what you will be doing with it, but, if you have one, you will find things to do with it.
It has been a long time since I cut threads, but never recalling advancing the "X" compound axis between cuts on a thread. That moves the tool out of sync with the previous cut. Yes, it will thread on but the threads are not matched then. It also does appear when you show a close up of the thread, it does not look symmetrical. To me. that handle should not be touched after the first cut.
I'm not sure what you are considering the "X" ... To cut threads, you generally use the cross slide set to 0, and then use the compound to get to the thread depth. This is done so that you are not using the cutter as a forming tool, and instead, using the leading edge of the tool. This is why the compound should be set to 29.5º
They pulley doesn't fit snug on the shaft. If the belt is a little loose, then it may not click, but it is pulling the pulley back and forth as it rotates.
This "Turned" out great! ;) Hah. My question, and I don't know if you'd be able to even explain this in any future video, is possibly discussing the limitations of this one. I know when I first looked at it, 7x14" that's substantial! But after you quickly showing a few things that get in the way of that 7x14", it's really not nearly that for actual workable space. I'm excited to see the next couple videos of the modifications to the drive selector, and anything else you get into! Very cool.
Oh wow... That might have to be a part 4 or 5... Or maybe I can put it in with part 3. That's a good idea. Practical limitations of any lathe. 👍 Pretty awesome what you can do with a little editing eh... Turned my mumbling nonsense into an actual video !
The lathe comes with a set of gears that change the feed rate of the apron in relation to the spindle. Lathes are basically always cutting threads... just really really fine threads. The pitch of the threads is determined by the different gear ratios. There is a chart on the cover that tells you what gears to use for what thread pitch.
I believe you have a British metric piece to replace. I have run across them a bunch of times over45 years of machining. Just real old things used them. Most defeinatlt you woll need a live center you can make with it and I am glad you have the metal gears on order. Fun post so I sub'd you and rang yer bell as well.I pour silver. Stop by for a peek. I try and fave some fun in the process. I am a BC fella from Vanderhoof. Just west of Prince Geord in the middle of the povince , Where are you ? If this is throwing a good thread I am thinking you have a good tight lathe there. A good test for any lathe. Take care eh
That is generally something that only comes on larger and much more expensive lathes. This lathe, and most others, have "change gears" and a chart. If you want to thread 1.5mm threads, you select a combination of gears to install... If you want to thread .8mm or if you want to cut SAE threads 24 tpi, you look at the chart and install the appropriate set of gears.
You need a thread dial. Threading requires multiple cuts. You can’t cut the total thread depth in one pass. To start in the same position for each pass, you need the dial. Otherwise the job will be destroyed on the second pass.
I can't say for sure. Perhaps with light cuts and proper tooling... I think it would struggle due to lack of rigidity, but I have never worked with titanium at all.
Hi, I think you if check carefully you will find that you have set the compound slide angle wrong, it looks closer to 60 degrees than 30 . Happy turning..
You are the seconds person to point this out ... I did start to set it at one point, and then got destracted by filming.... the thread on the aluminum part actually didn't turn out because of this, but I thought it was only out a few degrees. Isn't 0 pointing at the chuck and 90 pointing at the back of the lathe ? 30º is achieved with the handle moved right of 45 ? or have I been doing it wrong all this time. This is how my other lathe is labeled.
Hi ,my lathe compound slide starts at 0 degrees then in 10 20 30 etc in both directions. If you want 30 degrees ( or half pitch angle ) on slide you need to set compound slide to 60 degrees because you are setting the angle between the chuck face not the spindle axis, Hope that makes. Roger.
@@rogeroliver5083 Yes, the mini lathe has a plastic piece screwed to the side of the compound. My mini lathe doesn't even have a reference mark on it, but the reference line should be pointing back towards the operator. I think your reference point is incorrect. 0º is with the compound aligned with the axis of the lathe. 30º clockwise from there (actually 29) is where it should be set to cut threads. If you are using the face of the chuck as a reference, you are starting at 90º from the chuck and moving clockwise, making it 60º from the chuck.
Hello... Yes... Funny that you ask... I literally just fixed this one, haha. The clicking noise is the pulley on the motor shaft. What I did was remove the pulley, cleaned the hole out as well as the motor shaft. I then applied a generous amount of blue thread locker and tightened up the set screw. I waited about 1/2 an hour, installed it making sure the belt was centered and not too tight. Getting the belt to center and tensioning the belt is a bit of a pain, as you have to move the entire motor... but you'll get there. It's so much nicer now. I just installed the metal gear kit.
Hello Mac... This is Joel from Lowered Expectations. I'm responding from my other account so that I don't lose your comment. I have sent my contact at Vevor an email asking about this and will respond as soon as I hear back from them. I assumed, when it happened to me, that it was because I had already used the code in the past, although I'm not sure I have. Either way, I will get back to you ASAP.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam Cool , I was looking to compare prices and models. And it kept blocking me with the $5 coupon and also wanting me to sign up. I do not want to sign up for anyrhing
Hello again Mac. I got a response from my rep at Vevor and she says it is working fine. I tried it on my account and it works for me. One thing that I have noticed is that ... You select the address, payment method and the "pay securely now" button will be orange, but when you enter the code, it turns gray ... Not sure if this is the issue you had ? In this case it appears that you need to reselect the payment method. I couldn't get it to work for me the other day and ended up buying an item at retail... yuk, haha.... but today it seems to be working for me. Let me know if you can't get it sorted out.
@@Mac-mu9cs Oh, she also told me to make sure there are no spaces before or after the code. If you copy and paste it, you can sometimes copy and paste a space before the code. Haha.... I get it.... I don't like signing up to sites either. Now I just use chrome and it allows you to log in with your gmail account. It's not better except that you don't have to remember anything. I have it even worse than most people as I have my personal account, but I also need my "influencer" account that is separate.
I believe these are basically the same, but can't say for sure. I believe they call this series of lathe the CJ0618. I was also confused by no dual speed range.... There are even decals on it that indicate a high and low speed range. I will look into that more when I swap out the gear set.
I started out with a mini lathe many years ago, then I slowly graduated from that to a 9x19 and then a full-sized gunsmithing lathe. (same with the mini mill. I went to a CNCmill) Anyway, I sold my full sized machines thinking I'd never need them again after retiring from the work force. Boy was I wrong. Now I'm thinking of buying another Mini Lathe and I was wondering. On my larger lathes they had a dial indicator that would spin around on a circular gauge which indicated the exact time in which to engage the half-nut when cutting threads. I don't see any kind of dial on these Vevor mini lathes that would indicate when to engage the half-nut when cutting threads. How does one time the engagement of the half-nut without these indicator dials in place?
Thanks for sharing your story ... I can imagine that you'd really miss not having those tools after having them. Yes, you can add a indicator to these, but this particular one requires leaving the half nut engaged and reversing. Not ideal, but it works. I have a 10x22 lathe with the thread dial, and I never use it... I don't thread enough and have never learned to trust it, haha.
Saw Matthias W. had a Vevor so was looking for reviews. Ran across one by Rebel Fabricators that was a train wreck. From this one, it looks like its not to bad if you're experienced, or a novice will to accept the lower price means it will need some TLC.
My thoughts are that unless you spend a LOT and buy a high end lathe, you are going to spend a lot of time setting it up and tweaking things. I feel like most people who buy these laths spend most of their time using the lathe to improve the lathe. If you are buying a lathe to immediately start making things and depending on it to make income... You should probably invest in something a lot more expensive.
There's no simple yes or no to this. I have a 10x22 lathe that is much more rigid and powerful, and it will cut some stainless, with some tools, with certain techniques... but it won't cut others. I don't know much about the machinability of different grades of stainless, but suspect that this will cut some stainless, if you are selective and pick a type that machines relatively well, and / or use the proper tools and techniques.
Dear William Santiago , the reason they're crap outa the box is cause they're the scrap castings etc from Sieg . Oh Dear ... At least now ya now know what spares will fit .
The casting would have to be pretty disastorusly bad before it mattered on a 7x14 lathe. That being said, the lathe that I got has no obvious casting imperfections at all.
It's best to keep one gear plastic when replacing the plastic gears with metal ones. This way if you end up jamming the machine up it shreds the plastic gear first, instead of ruining the teeth on the metal gears, or worse.
have had mine now for couple yrs, only problem is the funky motor that easily stalls if under a load....so the motor needs to be ungraded thats it............
These little laths are very handy and a great tool to have in your shop, when you need it ! Yeah, the stalling problem is a consequence of using a variable speed DC motor. It is very convenient, but they do not have much torque when spinning at low speeds because they reduce voltage to slow the spindle. To truly fix this you need a much more expensive servo motor or AC motor with a VFD... An intermediate solution is to use a larger, faster turning motor, and then gear it down so that you gain torque form the gear reduction. My 10X22 mill uses a fixed speed motor and I have to change belts to change the speed. While it does deliver much more torque at low speeds, it is such a pain in the butt to change... it pretty much always stays in the same speed range, unless I absolutely have no choice, haha.
Yes... I believe for one of the threads I cut I actually started to set it up and then got sidetracked with filming or texting... The first thread I cut turned out complete crap with really sharp major diameter... and I was scratching my head trying to figure out why... I think that was on the aluminum. I didn't figure it out till I was trying to explain to Dustin how to cut threads ... and was like "oh... shit" haha.
I did not pay for the lathe. I had an agreement to make 3 videos for Vevor, about the lathe, so you may consider that free. I didn't get it for myself, however, I gave it to my friend Dustin.... I plan to have a video out for Friday or Saturday, that is the last in the series.
This is in response to your reply no more than 2 ( two ) days ago ... I thought about listing the defects but took the time to peruse other replies and guess what I read ? Mine is repaired and running brilliantly ( 4 years old mow ) and I also had Low Expectations and was not disappointed ...
There is a "reply" button that you can use when replying... this keep comments grouped together. Otherwise it gets hard to follow. I remember writing something yesterday to you in reply... but don't even remember what it was about. I respond to a lot of people. I don't recall another comment from you, or anyone, in recent days, about this lathe. Are you sharing a quote / comment form another commenter? I seem to recall someone else saying something like that "Mine is repaired and running brilliantly ( 4 years old mow ) and I also had Low Expectations and was not disappointed" I'm not sure what your point is, or if you have a point. My guess is that you are trying to say that you had issues, another person had issues and so your opinion that these lathes aren't good is justified. Something like that. Oh. I think I remember my response, yesterday. Something about how a person feels about their mini lathe depending on what they expect from it. Yes, Lowered Expectations in this case would be a terrific idea. Since you didn't list the issues, I can't say if they are actual issues, charteristics, flaws, adjustments, limitations etc. My current lathe (my 10x22 G0602 basically) has home made compound adjuster plate as the original had too much flex, extra oil fittings where none were installed, belt tensioner removed and two new (different length belts) as the original setup was awful, custom made quick change gear pins so I don't have to remove bolts to switch gears, custom door latch, as the original was annoying, custom tail stock lock and machined tail stock as the original lock used a wrench, broken quill lock as the handle was plastic, new quill guide pin, as the original was too short and got damaged, a QCTP, the whole lathe was disassembled, cleaned and levelled and aligned etc... It currently has a broken tooth on a apron gear and a noise from either the headstock, intermediate pulley, motor or all 3. It's a great lathe for the money... Would recommend it and would buy it again.
I had purchased one from Amazon and it was a joke major lacking registry better off with a little machine shop or if you have big wallet I'd go with precision Mathews
Precision Matthews are awesome. I have one of their milling machines. That being said... they don't sell any lathes that are at all comparable to these mini lathes... it's like comparing apples and cars. The little machine shop ones might be better .... The only thing close to comparable that I could find is their 7x16, wich is $1300 US plus shipping... so again, not at all comparable. I have no idea what you are talking about "major lacking registry" These are hobby lathes. Most people who buy them use the lathe to make improvements on the lathe ... and learn how to use a lathe. The guy who ended up with this one loves it and has made lots of little bits and pieces for around his house.
I think it's the safe thing to do... what they don't take into account is this... Anyone who leaves the spring on, will get so angry they will biff the key across the room faster than it comes out of the chuck... 🤣
I recently received a mini lathe from vevor. The box was all smashed up and multiple parts damaged. I've had to make several upgrades and have more to do. I didn't get much from them regarding the damaged parts. I've had to repair several things. The manual doesn't have any info.
I'm sorry to hear that. I would have requested a return immediately. I have had numerous products from Vevor and have been very impressed with their packaging. That being said, if a shipping company is rough enough with this crate to smash it up, I would not be accepting that delivery. The manual is pretty much useless. If you haven't had it for every long, politely contact Vevor and let them know what happened. Form my experience, they are more than willing to take care of their customers... You may even get a free lathe out of it. My advice would be to keep it short, factual and try not to be dramatic or emotional. Let them know what happened keeping in mind that the person you are talking to may have a poor grasp on english.
When cutting 1,5 mm thread on the lathe with 1,5 mm lead screw, you could disengage and engage the half nut when you need. Another story if your lead screw is 16 TPI 😉
It has a half nut lever.... However, it doesn't have a thread dial, so you need to leave the half nut engaged. This could be added, but with the little threading that I do on a lathe, even with my 10x22 lathe I keep the half nut engaged and thread in this manner.
Haha... yes... not safe. Or, at least, not recommended. Nitrile gloves will just get ripped off, and I almost always wear long sleeves. Almost lost a few fingers (had a brain fart) wearing rubber dipped fabric gloves and touched a spinning shaft ... stopped the lathe abruptly with my hand / arm. Less than idea.
This was a while ago, but I think what happened is I started threading without setting the compound angle correctly, and then just finished them off at the right angle. I'm sure it's not the fault of the lathe, haha.
Also, a must. I have two for my other lathe.... You quickly find out when you buy a lathe, that the lathe was the cheap part... the tooling is where all of your money goes, haha.
Absolutely. All good advice. I wear nitrile gloves as i'm more worried about chemical exposure than getting them snagged... different story with "real" gloves. Long sleeves, same story. I prefer to have the protection and chance getting snagged. No eye protection... that's just being forgetful and stubborn... I have had so many things stuck in my eyes I've lost count. A few years ago I had a brain fart and touched a spinning shaft while wearing rubber palmed gloves. The lathe came to an abrupt halt and I was lucky not to have lost any fingers or teeth.
Plastic contraption on top of the lathe looks like something off a three year old's toy. Can't believe people actually purchase this kind of stuff. Sure, I'll buy junk if it is cheap!
Haha... Yeah. It's all about expectations, and the name of my channel is "lowered expectations". These are great tools / toys for a hobbiest ... Most people who buy these spend 99% of their time developing skills by making improvements to their lathe... and using it for nothing else.
These lathes are a total shitshow. Built from parts from the reject barrel. I have the Vevor 7x16, and it is a total joke. After working on this thing for 6 months, it is going into the recycle bin, right back where it came from. I was thinking about trying to sell it, but I it would have to be just for parts.
Perhaps your expectations were too high or you got a dud... There are thousands of these out in the world (branded as Vevor and others) and the owners are quite pleased with them. These are hobby lathes and most people who get them spend an eternity, or the first year of ownership, using the lathe to improve the lathe, while developing skills and knowledge on how to use a lathe, and discovering what you're needs actually are. You mention being a total joke, but you don't mention what you were trying to do, that it wouldn't do. That may be helpful for others considering purchasing one of these. Ps. I have a King Canada (Grizzley G0602) and I have worked on it for the 10 ish years that I have owned it. It's a wonderful tool that cost many times what the Vevor does, and still required lots of upgrades, fixes, modifications. I also watched videos and got advice from others for about 2 years before making a lathe purchase.
Not sure what "More money for them to make it crappy" means. These lathes have become pretty affordable. I have had 3 laths. Two of the 10x22 units that were 3-4 times the cost of the mini lathe, and I did lots of improvements and mods to them as well. If you buy a hobby lathe, even if you spend $5000, you will end up making improvements and doing modifications.
The quick change tool holder is far superior to the standard tool holder. Not only is it quick, meaning you are more likely to do appropriate tool changes, it is also generally more rigid and more accurate for centering the tool. It has nothing to do with being in a race, it has to do with human nature and sometimes the order of operations. You often end up in a situation where you need to swap out tools to do one operation, and then switch back. If that swap takes you 10 seconds, you are likely to do it, where if it takes 10 minutes, you are likely to change your order of operations or to do an operation by hand, later. Efficiency isn't just about being faster. Plastic gears are fine in most cases. My 10x22 has plastic gear for the primary drive and all the rest are metal. Plastic gears do fail, usually when users make mistakes. People who buy these little lathes are generally beginners and or hobbyists, who are more likely to make mistakes.
I'm sure that metal gears are better in most ways, but many little lathes have plastic gears and they work fine.... unless / until you "crash" the lathe.
Yeah, this is correct. Gloves around a lathe are a bad idea. Latex or nitrile gloves will just get ripped off, I know as it has happened a few times. A few years ago (2020) I had a brain fart and touched a rotating shaft with my gloved hand, those rubber palmed work gloves, and brought the lathe to an abrupt stop with my hand... Needless to say, it didn't go well for my hand or fingers, but I didn't lose any. I wear nitrile gloves at the lathe, milling machine and around the shop as a calculated risk. I know that the chemical exposure is 100% a bad thing, and I need clean hands for dealing with cameras, batteries and tripods.
I bought a lathe from this company and boy what a joke. The tail stock had all kinds of pits in the iron. They cut it out of a rusty piece of pitted iron and then painted it and then the steady rest was the same way. Then they pride themselves by saying in their instruction manual that they only use HIGH QUALITY PARTS😂😂😂what a damn joke. It was dirty and they didn't want to replace the pitted parts because they said they still work. Yes they work but it's a imperfections so they should of replaced those parts. So I will not buy anything from this company again and I should of listen to everybody that told me to stay away from Vevor. 👎🏼
I bought a $2500 lathe and was pretty upset to find the same things ... 10 years later the lathe is working fine and I'm happy with the product. At the time of purchase, I actually made a video, on my other channel, talking about all the things I didn't like about it. People were quick to point out that it wasn't a $10,000 lathe 🤣 While I wouldn't be thrilled to see a chunk of casting cut out of my lathe, Vevor, and the manufacturer are right... If it doesn't effect the operation of the unit, then it shouldn't be repaired or replaced. This is what keeps the price of their products low. I will admit, they do talk a lot of nonsense about quality. Most of their stuff is decent quality, but overselling a product is a good way to end up with disappointed customers.... and it also means, people don't believe you when you do have an exceptionally well built product. Vevor sent me this lathe for free, a few heaters an ultrasonic cleaner and a few other tools, but I had been purchasing products from them long before they sent me anything. I have a rotary flex shaft grinder, pipe bender, vacuum pump and chamber, go-kart wheels, a CVT clutch kit, hydraulic brakes and a few other items... I have been please with everything. I did receive one welder that had issues.
My mom was constantly disappointed as well 🤣 ... I assume you are talking about the lathe tho ? I suppose a person's disappointment or satisfaction largely depends on their expectations.
Sadly, I had to sell my Mini. I should have kept the money, as I may be forced to move / sell my house soon, but I invested the money into building a CNC milling machine.
@@colinhamer6506 .... well crap. I probably should have kept my mouth shut. I didn't think this many people were hawk eyed in the comment section. Megan has had enough of me. The "plan" is to buy her out in the spring, but because I'm self employed, and because my accountant does a good job of tracking my expenses... my net income is likely way too low to get a mortgage. My only option may be to sell, and with the money that I have from this house, maybe get something else ... not sure what's going to happen yet.
@@werner.x No problem with the house. Megan has decided that she no longer wants to live with me any longer. She is entitled to have of the house value, and I likely can't afford to pay her that, so I will have to sell the house. I'm not sure what is going to happen, but this is how it appears.
I appreciate you using the actual word instead of saying something silly, haha. That being said, plastic gears aren't that bad. Many people used these machines for years without having an issue. The Primary gear on my 10x22 lathe is plastic ( I believe to be sacrificial) and I haven't broken it in over 10 years of use. This a not professional grade machines and most people who buy them are doing so for entertainment / a hobby, and to learn how to run a lathe. You can buy metal gears for a reasonable price.
I don't know whether to laugh or cry . Seems you made the sanme journey I made 4 + years ago ( covid project , sort of ) I don't feel the need for a watchmakers lathe now , so yup , 1 x blueprinted spinny thing . Since done 2 more for guys who should not have purchased one ...
My apologies , that's what my Sieg dealer informed me as he's the only one I can purchase Vevor parts from ( Sieg parts) . I paid for mine and like other buyers found it to be scrap ... Even worse than Utubers describe although at least I was forewarned .
I feel like this is a continuation of a conversation... that I don't' remember. I think a big part of a person's opinion of these little lathes has to do with their expectations.... Also, most people buying these lathes have almost no machining experience... If something goes wrong, so see it as a catastrophe, and others see it as a learning experience, or part of the hoby. I have had a few laths and I found all of mine to be both better and worse than people reported. I had a Sieg C6 (branded as a Force International) and spent a lot of time upgrading it. It had some things that I really disliked, but it worked well. It was a 10x22 unit.
That exact lathe is available with steel gears for a few dollars more. I have the same lathe that I ordered with steel gears. I also bought a set of extra gears to cut metric threads. I bought a four jaw chuck and a face plate for my lathe. I also upgraded my tool post holder to a quick change turret. I purchased quite a few extras for my Vevor lathe. While restoring my C3 Corvette, this lathe and my Wen milling machine are great to have in my shop.
I forgot to mention. I also bought the collet chuck and collets for my lathe. It saves a lot of time over dialing in each part that needs cutting.
Did you just make this purchase recently ? I just saw that someone made a substantial purchase and was wondering what they bought, haha. ($566.24) that may be US dollars.
Either way, good stuff !
I've wanted one of these for my 10x22 forever... never got around to getting one.
Having a lathe is awesome. Bought my south bend 9a last December and grew out of it; now have a colchester master 2500. So useful.
Nice !! I've always wanted to upgrade my lathe (an mill) but it's a matter of money and space. The one I use is a 10x22, the size is ok for me, but it lacks features and rigidity.... still... I get a LOT of use out of it.
@@loweredexpectations4927 10 x 22 is great! My new one is honestly just so dang big and takes up a lot of space! 2000 lbs and hard to move around the garage! Pluses and minuses definitely! I think ideally I would love a 11x or 12x for space, weight and overall usability
Whilst seller was quick to ask for Feedback on my purchase, not providing a cutting tool meant a delay to trying it out. The Spindle Bore is only 21mm - would have been better at 26mm so 1" or 25mm std material could be used. The tailstock lock lever is really annoying interfering with back guard. I guess as a budget entry machine it is a good learning tool preparing you for your next purchase and what to look out for. Atleast the E-stop is up front where some larger machines I've seen you have to reach over the chuck to hit the stop - last thing you want to do is reach further into a machine area in an E-stop condition.
Thanks for the comment.
I'm sure they are out there, but I have never seen a lathe that come with cutting tools. This is partly due to preference and variety of different tools. When I got my first machine, all hobby machinists used high speed steel, as insert tooling was WAY too much money, so you actually had to learn how to make tools before you could use your lathe, haha.
I totally agree with the spindle bore. A larger bore is of course always better, but my 10 x 22 lathe also has a 3/4 (19mm) spindle. This is because with a large bore, you either reduce rigidity or require a larger OD on the spindle, and an larger spindle. Larger spindle = more cost and larger casting required.
These lathes are a good way to learn how to use a lathe, and also open up possibilities that are not possible in the home shop without one. A lot of people upgrade machine tools shortly after getting their first, because the original ones open your eyes to what is possible.
I started with a 10x22 lathe, and I think it is perfect for me, but it takes up a lot more space, can't easily be moved by one person and cost about 3 times as much.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have the ticking sound you said was the motor belt so will have to investigate that further. cheers
@@huntz3215 Yes, it is the likely the pulley moving on the motor shaft due to the tension of the belt. If you put some thread locker on the pulley and shaft this may solve it.
Just the Channel name alone had me Subbed instantly , well done :)
Haha... Thanks ! I hope you enjoy the shenanigans !
Thank you for the video, it was just what I needed to see. I have been eyeing these for 6 years and am likely to get my greasy hands on one too. Lol
They are a really handy tool to have around the shop, and a great way to get into mechening. I think most people who own them learn how to use them by building improvements for the lathe itself.
The EU version comes with metal gears installed. A few years ago I bought a similar mini lathe from HBM in the Netherlands, the 180 Vario which they still sell.
Yes... I have noticed that. A few other countries have substantially nicer units than others !
Great video! I'm going to buy one of lathe like this just because i think it would work fine for my small projects and because its fun to work with a lathe. I have not used a lathe since college but i still hasn't forgot how to use one
They are a great tool to have around the shop. Not ideal if you are planning to start a fabrication business, but great.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes i would think they work great, it looks like that in your video. I'm not going to start a fabrication business i'm only going to use it to make some bushings or smaller bolts i would have need for and maybe some other small stuff for my projects
I added a srandard and metric threading dial indicator to my lathe and use multiple magnetic base indicators to stop at dead zero every time.
Excellent ideas. I have a tread dial on my other lathe... I'm always afraid of using it as I don't' do a lot of threading.
One of these looks perfect for most of the little projects I work on.
Yeah... they are great little machines. Dustin was saying (as a guy who has never used a lathe) that I should make a video talking about some of the limitations and considerations...
For someone like myself, who has used a athe for several years, I kinda take something for granted that likely isn't clear to the average person. You see numbers like 7x14 and imagine turning a chunk of metal that is 7x14... but there are a lot of factors that come into play.
There are a million little tricks to getting the most out of your lathe, be it a 7x14 or 14x48.... and the learning curve usually involves making a lot of mistakes and watching a LOT of UA-cam videos, haha.
Sorry for the long ass response !!
That would be a very helpful video.
@@loweredexpectations4927
I have one of these lathes in fact the same one and have had it for over two years now it gets a lot of work and I am still running plastic gears and never had a problem, I do how ever have a full set of metal just incase but for now I am just going to keep running the plastic gears.
Haha... yes... I think there are two factors that come into play with the plastic gears.
1. How many times and how hard you crash your tool into something with the half nut engaged. A lot of new users get these lathes so that is more common than it would be with a $4000 lathe, haha.
2. If the gears are already stressed from being pressed on. Some of them seem to be quite undersized. If they are already stretched / stressed then it doesn't take much additional force to cause them to fail.
This lathe can easily take off 3-5mm of steel at once if rebuilt and calibrated.
There are dedicated channels about this lathe. I have similar. Just didnt have time to work on it atm, later
Yeah. They have their place and are great !
Great video, I have a great like for Vevor, and have several great deals from them. Check your angle setting on the compound, its travel should be just a bit inside parallel of the angle of the cutting edge of the threading tool , making one cutting edge doing the bulk of the work. Enjoyed and subbed, cheers!
Thanks for the comment and tip. Sorry I missed your comment and didn't get back for so long.
How much 1:19 is the VEVOR 7/14 mini lathe cost
Currently $724 Canadian Dollars.
I've been benefitting from these videos over the past two years. I want to buy a little lathe just for fun. I haven't used a metal lathe since I was in high school in 1957. Doesn't matter. I'll have fun. I have definitely decided to not buy price. I'll allow six thousand or so for the lathe and accessaries / addons. Maybe more. The size? At least 10 x 20 inches. I don't want a lathe that has ball bearings on the spindle. Tapered rollers is much better. Will I select a gear head? Maybe. Haven't decided. I have an idea that I'll do lots of threading. Changing gears all the time doesn't thrill me much. I don't think I need a digital display. Speed adjusting seems more intuitive to me.
I like Proxxon but they are too small. Otherwise their quality seems above average. I like Sherline quite a lot. Not sure though. On their website they don't provide prices but instead offer financing. They want to sell you on a product and later tell you what the damage will be. This usually means they are pricey. I don't mind spending but I don't want to have to search for the rest of my life to find out what something costs. Why do they hide it? Maybe because of the current inflation.... it changes a lot?
So far I am leaning towards the one from Taiwan. Precision Matthews 1228 model with dro and a box of goodies to make it even more fun. This one runs on 110vac single phase with a variable speed DC motor. Seems just right. Any larger lathe from PM needs 240vac and maybe three phase too. I don't need all that sophistication in my garage.
Watching all these videos is almost as much fun as having the machine all set up and ready for ???? I have no idea what I'll use it for. I guess I will find out later.
May as well get a little mill while I'm at it. Why not? Fun fun fun...
The reader can tell I'm the fussy type. It's true. Why not? After all this talk I'll probably end up buying a Harbor Freight 14 inch. ha ha... Well, I can have fun on that model too.
Precision matthews has some great stuff and they are great to deal with. I bought a milling machine from them, and have heard nothing but good things.
LOL... we all want a big fancy lathe ... but the fact that we don't all have one means we come up with reasons not to go through with it. It is a little harder to justify if you don't' even know what you will be doing with it, but, if you have one, you will find things to do with it.
It has been a long time since I cut threads, but never recalling advancing the "X" compound axis between cuts on a thread. That moves the tool out of sync with the previous cut. Yes, it will thread on but the threads are not matched then. It also does appear when you show a close up of the thread, it does not look symmetrical. To me. that handle should not be touched after the first cut.
I'm not sure what you are considering the "X" ... To cut threads, you generally use the cross slide set to 0, and then use the compound to get to the thread depth.
This is done so that you are not using the cutter as a forming tool, and instead, using the leading edge of the tool. This is why the compound should be set to 29.5º
Why does your lathe knock when it spins? Mine doesn't.
They pulley doesn't fit snug on the shaft. If the belt is a little loose, then it may not click, but it is pulling the pulley back and forth as it rotates.
This "Turned" out great! ;) Hah.
My question, and I don't know if you'd be able to even explain this in any future video, is possibly discussing the limitations of this one. I know when I first looked at it, 7x14" that's substantial! But after you quickly showing a few things that get in the way of that 7x14", it's really not nearly that for actual workable space.
I'm excited to see the next couple videos of the modifications to the drive selector, and anything else you get into! Very cool.
Oh wow... That might have to be a part 4 or 5... Or maybe I can put it in with part 3. That's a good idea. Practical limitations of any lathe. 👍
Pretty awesome what you can do with a little editing eh... Turned my mumbling nonsense into an actual video !
Hey now, there's a lot of information in the mumbling nonsense! ;) Appreciate all the work you put into these videos man. They look great!
yea its 7 x 14 on between centres, not with the chuck
I had low expectations....you didn't disappoint !
Well done me ! Set goals, and meet them. If you never meet your goals, you need to lower you expectations.
How you make thread on this?😮
The lathe comes with a set of gears that change the feed rate of the apron in relation to the spindle.
Lathes are basically always cutting threads... just really really fine threads. The pitch of the threads is determined by the different gear ratios. There is a chart on the cover that tells you what gears to use for what thread pitch.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Thank you very much. I thought a lathe like that couldn't cut threads.
@@jaroslavdulik1439 Yes... Most lathes can make threads. it will take a while to learn, but you can do it.
@@loweredexpectations4927
I believe you have a British metric piece to replace. I have run across them a bunch of times over45 years of machining. Just real old things used them. Most defeinatlt you woll need a live center you can make with it and I am glad you have the metal gears on order. Fun post so I sub'd you and rang yer bell as well.I pour silver. Stop by for a peek. I try and fave some fun in the process. I am a BC fella from Vanderhoof. Just west of Prince Geord in the middle of the povince , Where are you ? If this is throwing a good thread I am thinking you have a good tight lathe there. A good test for any lathe. Take care eh
Thanks for the comment. Sorry for the delay, it has been a crazy summer for me.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Sure nothing wrong with being busy. Stop by some time if you like.
does it have a pitch gear selector for cutting threads?
That is generally something that only comes on larger and much more expensive lathes. This lathe, and most others, have "change gears" and a chart. If you want to thread 1.5mm threads, you select a combination of gears to install... If you want to thread .8mm or if you want to cut SAE threads 24 tpi, you look at the chart and install the appropriate set of gears.
@@loweredexpectations4927 thanks for explaining!
@@marcdaslama You're welcome.
You need a thread dial. Threading requires multiple cuts. You can’t cut the total thread depth in one pass. To start in the same position for each pass, you need the dial. Otherwise the job will be destroyed on the second pass.
My question is this. Would this lathe me strong enough to cut Titanium?
I can't say for sure. Perhaps with light cuts and proper tooling... I think it would struggle due to lack of rigidity, but I have never worked with titanium at all.
Are the increments sae or metric?
The markings on the dials are SAE, but the screws themselves may be metric... I know this is a common trick with most stuff made overseas.
Hi, I think you if check carefully you will find that you have set the compound slide angle wrong, it looks closer to 60 degrees than 30 . Happy turning..
You are the seconds person to point this out ... I did start to set it at one point, and then got destracted by filming.... the thread on the aluminum part actually didn't turn out because of this, but I thought it was only out a few degrees.
Isn't 0 pointing at the chuck and 90 pointing at the back of the lathe ? 30º is achieved with the handle moved right of 45 ? or have I been doing it wrong all this time. This is how my other lathe is labeled.
Hi ,my lathe compound slide starts at 0 degrees then in 10 20 30 etc in both directions. If you want 30 degrees ( or half pitch angle ) on slide you need to set compound slide to 60 degrees because you are setting the angle between the chuck face not the spindle axis, Hope that makes. Roger.
@@rogeroliver5083 Yes, the mini lathe has a plastic piece screwed to the side of the compound. My mini lathe doesn't even have a reference mark on it, but the reference line should be pointing back towards the operator.
I think your reference point is incorrect. 0º is with the compound aligned with the axis of the lathe. 30º clockwise from there (actually 29) is where it should be set to cut threads.
If you are using the face of the chuck as a reference, you are starting at 90º from the chuck and moving clockwise, making it 60º from the chuck.
The clicking noise can you fix that? I have the same lathe super annoying
Hello... Yes... Funny that you ask... I literally just fixed this one, haha.
The clicking noise is the pulley on the motor shaft. What I did was remove the pulley, cleaned the hole out as well as the motor shaft. I then applied a generous amount of blue thread locker and tightened up the set screw.
I waited about 1/2 an hour, installed it making sure the belt was centered and not too tight. Getting the belt to center and tensioning the belt is a bit of a pain, as you have to move the entire motor... but you'll get there.
It's so much nicer now. I just installed the metal gear kit.
How you turn the tool post to cut an angle
You move the part called the "compound slide" The tool post doesn't change the angle.
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Thanks !
Used your USA vevor link and cant get pass the $5 coupon pop up…
Hello Mac... This is Joel from Lowered Expectations. I'm responding from my other account so that I don't lose your comment. I have sent my contact at Vevor an email asking about this and will respond as soon as I hear back from them.
I assumed, when it happened to me, that it was because I had already used the code in the past, although I'm not sure I have. Either way, I will get back to you ASAP.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam
Cool , I was looking to compare prices and models.
And it kept blocking me with the $5 coupon and also wanting me to sign up.
I do not want to sign up for anyrhing
Hello again Mac.
I got a response from my rep at Vevor and she says it is working fine. I tried it on my account and it works for me.
One thing that I have noticed is that ... You select the address, payment method and the "pay securely now" button will be orange, but when you enter the code, it turns gray ... Not sure if this is the issue you had ?
In this case it appears that you need to reselect the payment method. I couldn't get it to work for me the other day and ended up buying an item at retail... yuk, haha.... but today it seems to be working for me.
Let me know if you can't get it sorted out.
@@Mac-mu9cs Oh, she also told me to make sure there are no spaces before or after the code. If you copy and paste it, you can sometimes copy and paste a space before the code.
Haha.... I get it.... I don't like signing up to sites either. Now I just use chrome and it allows you to log in with your gmail account. It's not better except that you don't have to remember anything.
I have it even worse than most people as I have my personal account, but I also need my "influencer" account that is separate.
She emailed me again and said that if you can't get that to work to try one of these.
VVPROMO
VVSALE
VVSALES
I got one from princess auto. Are the upgrades the same? I noticed there is no hi/low speed manual shift for head stock
I believe these are basically the same, but can't say for sure. I believe they call this series of lathe the CJ0618.
I was also confused by no dual speed range.... There are even decals on it that indicate a high and low speed range. I will look into that more when I swap out the gear set.
Just bought one of these.
Nice👍
I started out with a mini lathe many years ago, then I slowly graduated from that to a 9x19 and then a full-sized gunsmithing lathe. (same with the mini mill. I went to a CNCmill)
Anyway, I sold my full sized machines thinking I'd never need them again after retiring from the work force. Boy was I wrong.
Now I'm thinking of buying another Mini Lathe and I was wondering. On my larger lathes they had a dial indicator that would spin around on a circular gauge which indicated the exact time in which to engage the half-nut when cutting threads.
I don't see any kind of dial on these Vevor mini lathes that would indicate when to engage the half-nut when cutting threads.
How does one time the engagement of the half-nut without these indicator dials in place?
Thanks for sharing your story ... I can imagine that you'd really miss not having those tools after having them.
Yes, you can add a indicator to these, but this particular one requires leaving the half nut engaged and reversing. Not ideal, but it works. I have a 10x22 lathe with the thread dial, and I never use it... I don't thread enough and have never learned to trust it, haha.
What is the other lathe you have
It is a G0602 Grizzly (mine is branded as a King Industrial KC1022ML ...same thing, different paint.
Saw Matthias W. had a Vevor so was looking for reviews. Ran across one by Rebel Fabricators that was a train wreck. From this one, it looks like its not to bad if you're experienced, or a novice will to accept the lower price means it will need some TLC.
My thoughts are that unless you spend a LOT and buy a high end lathe, you are going to spend a lot of time setting it up and tweaking things. I feel like most people who buy these laths spend most of their time using the lathe to improve the lathe.
If you are buying a lathe to immediately start making things and depending on it to make income... You should probably invest in something a lot more expensive.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice video
Welcome to the channel. Most of my content is diesel heaters, but I do have other stuff on the go.
Great info thank you
Thanks for the comment !
Can this also cut stainless steel?
There's no simple yes or no to this. I have a 10x22 lathe that is much more rigid and powerful, and it will cut some stainless, with some tools, with certain techniques... but it won't cut others.
I don't know much about the machinability of different grades of stainless, but suspect that this will cut some stainless, if you are selective and pick a type that machines relatively well, and / or use the proper tools and techniques.
I noticed your work bench is nice and neat like most of ours are 😅
Are you referring to my folding table, or my actual bench, haha. My actual bench is made of 2x4. It works pretty well. Cheers !
@@loweredexpectations4927 your actual bench
I guess that's what lower expectations mean in your Case
@@bloop6812 I misread your first comment !! Haha... Yes !! My bench is ALWAYS a huge mess... Benches always become storage for all sorts of junk.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yeh just like a women's purse the bigger the garage the more junk that's in it
The screw type is called British Standard. Its not imperial / us standard or metric. Very common on pre 1985 Brittish / English vehicles.
I assume we are talking about the lead screw ? I was under the impression that import lathes used a 1.5mm pitch.
Dear William Santiago , the reason they're crap outa the box is cause they're the scrap castings etc from Sieg .
Oh Dear ...
At least now ya now know what spares will fit .
The casting would have to be pretty disastorusly bad before it mattered on a 7x14 lathe. That being said, the lathe that I got has no obvious casting imperfections at all.
That’s not a Sieg product! Sieg lathes have an “H” shaped saddle. This machine has a rectangular shaped saddle.
It's best to keep one gear plastic when replacing the plastic gears with metal ones. This way if you end up jamming the machine up it shreds the plastic gear first, instead of ruining the teeth on the metal gears, or worse.
Yeah, my bigger lathe has one plastic gear on it for this reason.
Smart man. I enjoyed the video, thank you. @@loweredexpectations4927
Very cool! Thanks Joel
Thanks for the comment !🤟
Dear sir !I would like to purchesing this laeth mechine to sri lanka how by advice. Thanking u .I am lasath.
Oh wow. I am not sure how to go about that.
have had mine now for couple yrs, only problem is the funky motor that easily stalls if under a load....so the motor needs to be ungraded thats it............
These little laths are very handy and a great tool to have in your shop, when you need it !
Yeah, the stalling problem is a consequence of using a variable speed DC motor. It is very convenient, but they do not have much torque when spinning at low speeds because they reduce voltage to slow the spindle.
To truly fix this you need a much more expensive servo motor or AC motor with a VFD... An intermediate solution is to use a larger, faster turning motor, and then gear it down so that you gain torque form the gear reduction.
My 10X22 mill uses a fixed speed motor and I have to change belts to change the speed. While it does deliver much more torque at low speeds, it is such a pain in the butt to change... it pretty much always stays in the same speed range, unless I absolutely have no choice, haha.
That compound looks like it's at the wrong angle for threading.
Yes... I believe for one of the threads I cut I actually started to set it up and then got sidetracked with filming or texting... The first thread I cut turned out complete crap with really sharp major diameter... and I was scratching my head trying to figure out why... I think that was on the aluminum.
I didn't figure it out till I was trying to explain to Dustin how to cut threads ... and was like "oh... shit" haha.
did you get the lathe for free?
I did not pay for the lathe. I had an agreement to make 3 videos for Vevor, about the lathe, so you may consider that free. I didn't get it for myself, however, I gave it to my friend Dustin.... I plan to have a video out for Friday or Saturday, that is the last in the series.
This is in response to your reply no more than 2 ( two ) days ago ...
I thought about listing the defects but took the time to peruse other replies and guess what I read ?
Mine is repaired and running brilliantly ( 4 years old mow ) and I also had Low Expectations and was not disappointed ...
There is a "reply" button that you can use when replying... this keep comments grouped together. Otherwise it gets hard to follow. I remember writing something yesterday to you in reply... but don't even remember what it was about. I respond to a lot of people. I don't recall another comment from you, or anyone, in recent days, about this lathe.
Are you sharing a quote / comment form another commenter? I seem to recall someone else saying something like that "Mine is repaired and running brilliantly ( 4 years old mow ) and I also had Low Expectations and was not disappointed"
I'm not sure what your point is, or if you have a point. My guess is that you are trying to say that you had issues, another person had issues and so your opinion that these lathes aren't good is justified. Something like that.
Oh. I think I remember my response, yesterday. Something about how a person feels about their mini lathe depending on what they expect from it. Yes, Lowered Expectations in this case would be a terrific idea.
Since you didn't list the issues, I can't say if they are actual issues, charteristics, flaws, adjustments, limitations etc. My current lathe (my 10x22 G0602 basically) has home made compound adjuster plate as the original had too much flex, extra oil fittings where none were installed, belt tensioner removed and two new (different length belts) as the original setup was awful, custom made quick change gear pins so I don't have to remove bolts to switch gears, custom door latch, as the original was annoying, custom tail stock lock and machined tail stock as the original lock used a wrench, broken quill lock as the handle was plastic, new quill guide pin, as the original was too short and got damaged, a QCTP, the whole lathe was disassembled, cleaned and levelled and aligned etc... It currently has a broken tooth on a apron gear and a noise from either the headstock, intermediate pulley, motor or all 3.
It's a great lathe for the money... Would recommend it and would buy it again.
Nice video, thanks for the content. Interesting.
Thanks for your comment.
Did you clean this before you did the video
I did not .... Do you mean clean it from the factory ? ... It was very clean. Surprisingly so.
@@loweredexpectations4927 , yes usually they are smothered in rust inhibitor grease/oil. Did you adjust the gibs?
@@loweredexpectations4927 so can I assume vevor sent you this for free with linking sales to it ?
@@Mac-mu9cs Yes, the gibs took some adjustment and I had to align the tailstock. There were a few things out of whack.
@@loweredexpectations4927
I must have missed those last few minutes in the video where you mentioned adjusting it.
I had purchased one from Amazon and it was a joke major lacking registry better off with a little machine shop or if you have big wallet I'd go with precision Mathews
Precision Matthews are awesome. I have one of their milling machines. That being said... they don't sell any lathes that are at all comparable to these mini lathes... it's like comparing apples and cars.
The little machine shop ones might be better .... The only thing close to comparable that I could find is their 7x16, wich is $1300 US plus shipping... so again, not at all comparable.
I have no idea what you are talking about "major lacking registry"
These are hobby lathes. Most people who buy them use the lathe to make improvements on the lathe ... and learn how to use a lathe. The guy who ended up with this one loves it and has made lots of little bits and pieces for around his house.
I want one of these but sadly I can't afford it
Great vid!
, thx.
Thanks.
Amazing work ❤
Thanks for the comment !
Yes throw away the safety chuck key spring, very wise.😂
I think it's the safe thing to do... what they don't take into account is this... Anyone who leaves the spring on, will get so angry they will biff the key across the room faster than it comes out of the chuck... 🤣
I recently received a mini lathe from vevor. The box was all smashed up and multiple parts damaged. I've had to make several upgrades and have more to do. I didn't get much from them regarding the damaged parts. I've had to repair several things. The manual doesn't have any info.
I'm sorry to hear that. I would have requested a return immediately. I have had numerous products from Vevor and have been very impressed with their packaging.
That being said, if a shipping company is rough enough with this crate to smash it up, I would not be accepting that delivery.
The manual is pretty much useless. If you haven't had it for every long, politely contact Vevor and let them know what happened. Form my experience, they are more than willing to take care of their customers... You may even get a free lathe out of it.
My advice would be to keep it short, factual and try not to be dramatic or emotional. Let them know what happened keeping in mind that the person you are talking to may have a poor grasp on english.
Nice video man! You kind of remind me of Drew Brees.
Price
Location
When cutting 1,5 mm thread on the lathe with 1,5 mm lead screw, you could disengage and engage the half nut when you need. Another story if your lead screw is 16 TPI 😉
Yeah... I don't use a lathe enough to be comfortable doing this.
No half-nut lever for threading😑😑
It has a half nut lever.... However, it doesn't have a thread dial, so you need to leave the half nut engaged.
This could be added, but with the little threading that I do on a lathe, even with my 10x22 lathe I keep the half nut engaged and thread in this manner.
18:03 when turn chuck by hand chuck wiggles - just sayn
Nope. The whole lathe is moving because it's just on rubber feet on my bench. Look more closely.
Good enough for the girls I go out with 😂
The channel name is "lowered expectations" after all...
Long sleeves and gloves. Check.
Haha... yes... not safe. Or, at least, not recommended. Nitrile gloves will just get ripped off, and I almost always wear long sleeves. Almost lost a few fingers (had a brain fart) wearing rubber dipped fabric gloves and touched a spinning shaft ... stopped the lathe abruptly with my hand / arm. Less than idea.
Those thread look wonky. Not symmetrical.
This was a while ago, but I think what happened is I started threading without setting the compound angle correctly, and then just finished them off at the right angle. I'm sure it's not the fault of the lathe, haha.
Shake loose and buy a live center for that tailstock!
Don't forget the tailstock drill chuck! You're going to need it.
I agree ! I just got one for my 10x22 lathe after ... 8 or 9 years of ownership, haha. If you have a lathe, you should have one.
Also, a must. I have two for my other lathe.... You quickly find out when you buy a lathe, that the lathe was the cheap part... the tooling is where all of your money goes, haha.
Always wear pants when using a lathe
LOL... yes... good idea.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
🤷♂️ 🤔 🤣
Dear amateur turners...gloves, long sleeves and no eye protection IS NOT the way to go....turning 101
Absolutely. All good advice.
I wear nitrile gloves as i'm more worried about chemical exposure than getting them snagged... different story with "real" gloves. Long sleeves, same story. I prefer to have the protection and chance getting snagged. No eye protection... that's just being forgetful and stubborn... I have had so many things stuck in my eyes I've lost count.
A few years ago I had a brain fart and touched a spinning shaft while wearing rubber palmed gloves. The lathe came to an abrupt halt and I was lucky not to have lost any fingers or teeth.
Funny comments! You asked for solid lathe machine for dirt cheap price! Shut up !!
LOL... Thanks, I think.
The name if the channel is "lowered expectations" ... that's the first clue, eh.
Plastic contraption on top of the lathe looks like something off a three year old's toy. Can't believe people actually purchase this kind of stuff. Sure, I'll buy junk if it is cheap!
Haha... Yeah. It's all about expectations, and the name of my channel is "lowered expectations". These are great tools / toys for a hobbiest ...
Most people who buy these spend 99% of their time developing skills by making improvements to their lathe... and using it for nothing else.
These lathes are a total shitshow. Built from parts from the reject barrel. I have the Vevor 7x16, and it is a total joke. After working on this thing for 6 months, it is going into the recycle bin, right back where it came from. I was thinking about trying to sell it, but I it would have to be just for parts.
Perhaps your expectations were too high or you got a dud... There are thousands of these out in the world (branded as Vevor and others) and the owners are quite pleased with them.
These are hobby lathes and most people who get them spend an eternity, or the first year of ownership, using the lathe to improve the lathe, while developing skills and knowledge on how to use a lathe, and discovering what you're needs actually are.
You mention being a total joke, but you don't mention what you were trying to do, that it wouldn't do. That may be helpful for others considering purchasing one of these.
Ps. I have a King Canada (Grizzley G0602) and I have worked on it for the 10 ish years that I have owned it. It's a wonderful tool that cost many times what the Vevor does, and still required lots of upgrades, fixes, modifications.
I also watched videos and got advice from others for about 2 years before making a lathe purchase.
More money for them to make it crappy so you spend more to make it better
Not sure what "More money for them to make it crappy" means. These lathes have become pretty affordable. I have had 3 laths. Two of the 10x22 units that were 3-4 times the cost of the mini lathe, and I did lots of improvements and mods to them as well.
If you buy a hobby lathe, even if you spend $5000, you will end up making improvements and doing modifications.
Stupid changing the tool holder. Are you in a race or something???? Plastic gears are fine NO need for steel.
The quick change tool holder is far superior to the standard tool holder. Not only is it quick, meaning you are more likely to do appropriate tool changes, it is also generally more rigid and more accurate for centering the tool.
It has nothing to do with being in a race, it has to do with human nature and sometimes the order of operations. You often end up in a situation where you need to swap out tools to do one operation, and then switch back. If that swap takes you 10 seconds, you are likely to do it, where if it takes 10 minutes, you are likely to change your order of operations or to do an operation by hand, later. Efficiency isn't just about being faster.
Plastic gears are fine in most cases. My 10x22 has plastic gear for the primary drive and all the rest are metal. Plastic gears do fail, usually when users make mistakes. People who buy these little lathes are generally beginners and or hobbyists, who are more likely to make mistakes.
Plastic gears! I say junk, but I'll watch the video anyway.
I'm sure that metal gears are better in most ways, but many little lathes have plastic gears and they work fine.... unless / until you "crash" the lathe.
Gloves on a lathe? No!
Yeah, this is correct. Gloves around a lathe are a bad idea.
Latex or nitrile gloves will just get ripped off, I know as it has happened a few times. A few years ago (2020) I had a brain fart and touched a rotating shaft with my gloved hand, those rubber palmed work gloves, and brought the lathe to an abrupt stop with my hand...
Needless to say, it didn't go well for my hand or fingers, but I didn't lose any. I wear nitrile gloves at the lathe, milling machine and around the shop as a calculated risk. I know that the chemical exposure is 100% a bad thing, and I need clean hands for dealing with cameras, batteries and tripods.
I bought a lathe from this company and boy what a joke. The tail stock had all kinds of pits in the iron. They cut it out of a rusty piece of pitted iron and then painted it and then the steady rest was the same way. Then they pride themselves by saying in their instruction manual that they only use HIGH QUALITY PARTS😂😂😂what a damn joke. It was dirty and they didn't want to replace the pitted parts because they said they still work. Yes they work but it's a imperfections so they should of replaced those parts. So I will not buy anything from this company again and I should of listen to everybody that told me to stay away from Vevor. 👎🏼
I bought a $2500 lathe and was pretty upset to find the same things ... 10 years later the lathe is working fine and I'm happy with the product.
At the time of purchase, I actually made a video, on my other channel, talking about all the things I didn't like about it. People were quick to point out that it wasn't a $10,000 lathe 🤣
While I wouldn't be thrilled to see a chunk of casting cut out of my lathe, Vevor, and the manufacturer are right... If it doesn't effect the operation of the unit, then it shouldn't be repaired or replaced. This is what keeps the price of their products low.
I will admit, they do talk a lot of nonsense about quality. Most of their stuff is decent quality, but overselling a product is a good way to end up with disappointed customers.... and it also means, people don't believe you when you do have an exceptionally well built product.
Vevor sent me this lathe for free, a few heaters an ultrasonic cleaner and a few other tools, but I had been purchasing products from them long before they sent me anything.
I have a rotary flex shaft grinder, pipe bender, vacuum pump and chamber, go-kart wheels, a CVT clutch kit, hydraulic brakes and a few other items... I have been please with everything. I did receive one welder that had issues.
But did it work?
I'd be disappointed...
My mom was constantly disappointed as well 🤣 ... I assume you are talking about the lathe tho ? I suppose a person's disappointment or satisfaction largely depends on their expectations.
Forget the lathe, where's the Mini?
Sadly, I had to sell my Mini. I should have kept the money, as I may be forced to move / sell my house soon, but I invested the money into building a CNC milling machine.
@@loweredexpectations4927that sounds bad I hope you're OK
@@loweredexpectations4927 What's this lingering problem with the house?
@@colinhamer6506 .... well crap. I probably should have kept my mouth shut. I didn't think this many people were hawk eyed in the comment section. Megan has had enough of me. The "plan" is to buy her out in the spring, but because I'm self employed, and because my accountant does a good job of tracking my expenses... my net income is likely way too low to get a mortgage.
My only option may be to sell, and with the money that I have from this house, maybe get something else ... not sure what's going to happen yet.
@@werner.x No problem with the house. Megan has decided that she no longer wants to live with me any longer. She is entitled to have of the house value, and I likely can't afford to pay her that, so I will have to sell the house. I'm not sure what is going to happen, but this is how it appears.
plastic gears ? what the fuck... with this price is toy not tool...
I appreciate you using the actual word instead of saying something silly, haha.
That being said, plastic gears aren't that bad. Many people used these machines for years without having an issue. The Primary gear on my 10x22 lathe is plastic ( I believe to be sacrificial) and I haven't broken it in over 10 years of use.
This a not professional grade machines and most people who buy them are doing so for entertainment / a hobby, and to learn how to run a lathe. You can buy metal gears for a reasonable price.
First!! Baha!
First and last ? haha.
Best way to learn NOT to leave the Chuck key in the Chuck is TO LEAVE THE CHUCK KEY IN THE CHUCK.
Haha... well said.
Thank you for sharing ❤
😂🤣💀🙈
I don't know whether to laugh or cry .
Seems you made the sanme journey I made 4 + years ago ( covid project , sort of )
I don't feel the need for a watchmakers lathe now , so yup , 1 x blueprinted spinny thing .
Since done 2 more for guys who should not have purchased one ...
Try laughing 50% or the time and trying the rest. That works for me, haha.
My apologies , that's what my Sieg dealer informed me as he's the only one I can purchase Vevor parts from ( Sieg parts) .
I paid for mine and like other buyers found it to be scrap ...
Even worse than Utubers describe although at least I was forewarned .
I feel like this is a continuation of a conversation... that I don't' remember.
I think a big part of a person's opinion of these little lathes has to do with their expectations.... Also, most people buying these lathes have almost no machining experience... If something goes wrong, so see it as a catastrophe, and others see it as a learning experience, or part of the hoby.
I have had a few laths and I found all of mine to be both better and worse than people reported. I had a Sieg C6 (branded as a Force International) and spent a lot of time upgrading it. It had some things that I really disliked, but it worked well. It was a 10x22 unit.
Shame ya missed the misaligned lead screw which has an unfortunate tendency to seize it's bearings and break gears , oops ...
Ah yes... Mine had that, but it was remedied when I reassembled.