I hardly ever make snap judgements, but this is the first video of yours I've seen and it was well thought out, informative, and genuinely funny (not cheesy). I look forward to watching more of your work. PS, Your wife is such a good sport - nice touch!
Thanks very much for posting this video. Flush trimming is a technique I've avoided for reason detailed in the first minute of your video. But I desperately needed to utilize this technique for a project I have going. Followed you tips and it was hugely successful. Thanks Donnie!
I've purchased a few of your templates and they have been on the shelf. So thankful to see this how-to. They fact that you are kewl as hell is a bonus.
Liked & Subscribed. I appreciate the pace of your video, there's so much out there to see that I don't have time to waste on people rambling or going off topic for more than a moment. You did a great balance of being personable but also keeping the ball moving forward. Thank you, the tip about wetting the edges is something I'm putting in the toolbox up between my ears.
One of the scarier things to happen in woodworking is when a router bit catches the grain the wrong way and sends the piece flying. Despite being observant and careful, it happens. I bought an expensive bit just because of the issue, Whiteside Model UDC9112 Spiral Combination for about $200. It's not a 100% effective, but it is much better than anything else I've tried. As you mentioned in the video, it's very important to get within 1/8" or less to the finished line. I'm going to try your water trick next time, never saw that before. Thanks for posting. Mark
I bought one of those the other day. Better than a straight cut. Still didn't solve the end grain problem, but gave me a better chance at success per piece.
Thanks for the video! I don’t have a table, rather just a palm router. I’ve noticed the slower the speed on the palm router, the less tear out. Will try the water trick
Great tips and beautiful work. Subbed immediately. I, for one, love the casual, straightforward approach to your narration. The "language" that some others are complaining about complements your work. Great stuff man!
I'm going to be buying my first trim router pretty soon, so your tips will certainly come in handy. Thanks very much and hi from Calgary, Alberta, Canada! :) Oh, the router I'll be getting is a RIDGID corded 1/4" shank.
Interesting - never thought spiral was best for hardwoods and straight for soft. Makes sense. What would you use for paper-clad styrofoam? Gonna need to set up to do production cut-outs and haven't got item 1 yet.
We bought several of your acrylic templates and they're great and we've had absolutely no problem flush trimming,, up till now. We have the double Christmas tree,, where one slides inside the other to form the tree. Although we've done these in the past, for some reason, no matter what we try, we're still getting terrible kickback when we first entered a router blade. The only thing that we're doing different than your video is that we're using a straight bit which we have used in the past with no trouble. Do you have any idea whatsoever? What we could be doing wrong? Of course, other than the bits that you suggest.
Oh man, I know the feeling! I haven’t had anything dangerous or chip outs in years though! Follow these tips on the video and you will be flushing easily with confidence in no time. Thanks for watching my man, and I’m stoked that I could help 👊
Great content. Good pacing. Fantastic tips. I was in an NCO leadership class years ago, and the instructor made a comment that stuck with me: "Profanity does not convey professionalism" Am I offended by it? No. Does it add to your quality. Hard no.
Hey great video but what tool do you use to get your counter sink holes (with the ledge) on the acrylic I have a 90-degree reaming bit but that leaves an angle on the drilled hole how do you get that smooth straight wall on your counter sink holes Regards, Rick
I was here to try to figure out the 1/4” flush trim but you showed but didn’t use. It has a collar with an Allen screw. Why would you need to move it if you can only trim 3/8” at a time. Anyway, nice templates!!
A couple of things here. First off, I laughed my butt off when you pulled out the huge leaf blower to clean off the table. For whatever reason, that really cracked me up. Second, I just bought a beautiful router set (fixed and plunge set from Dewalt). I quickly found out that I totally suck at routing. My piece looked like something a beaver left on the ground as a reject after gnawing down a tree in the woods. I REALLY want to make a nice breadbox for my wife for Christmas, but I don't want it to end up on Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer's Island of the Misfits when I'm done. I like the tip about using some water, too. I'll give that a shot. I probably shouldn't be too hard on myself because I've only had the router three days and I'm a rank amateur woodworker, but being a perfectionist makes me my own worst enemy. I do look forward to looking backward to see how far I've come in mastering the tool, but in the meantime, I suck at it. Watching how easily your trimming went gives me hope and inspiration. Thanks.
Not sure if my question will be seen or not, but I need to smooth the side of a wood an epoxy table which bit would be best for this , table is 3ftx 5ft
Thanks for the router advice. I’ll always keep in mind, maintaining my work on the frontside of the router bit. I had some issues routing inside holes with a template. Holy cow, it was pretty spooky for a beginner.
I’m glad the tips helped out. And yes holes can be tricky but even for holes, keep it on the front side of the tape and you will be good. Sometimes you have to keep repositioning the material to make that happen because the mind just wants to go all the way around.
Great tips! Had never heard of wetting the side of the wood before routing. Also, I have a cnc and was considering making a few acrylic templates. Do you use that or a laser to make yours?
Terrific video and tips. I’ve been doing this years but learned some great tips and also very handy to see tips I had seen before well explained in one place.
Thanks for the excellent demonstration and tips! I'm interested in the 1/2 compression bit you showed and recommended, however the link is for a 5/8 x 7/8. Hoping you might be able to include a link to the 1/2 x 1-1/4.
Wow, I've never had a tear out problem on any wood I have used in the past 50 years of wood working and I've made a lot of money with it. No matter what wood I have used, I have just not had the problems you show... I use a 1/2 inch shearing bit on all my work soft or hard.
That’s great, that you haven’t had any of those issues. That’s wild to me, as the majority frequently have those issues. Out of curiosity are you flush trimming specifically or do you mean that you haven’t had any tear out with just router table work? Because flushing is entirely different animal. Just curious. But that’s fantastic man, whatever you’re doing, keep it up 👍
Great tips - first time I heard of the water on the edges. Will need to try it out in near future. I’ve been eyeing that sander in your IG and YT shorts. Will need to check out the link. I have noticed your focus on templates and small projects lately. Just watched your table video where you talked about losing your shop - it all comes together now. Keep the information coming.
Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful and yup, life can throw a lot of curve balls sometimes! Occasionally we swing and miss, but sometimes we knock it out of the park! Thanks for watching dude!
Thanks for the video. I want to build some of these when I find the time. I’m rebuilding my house right now. The only thing wrong with this, it’s not deep enough. That tray doesn’t hold enough for one person. Is it an easy fix?
Thanks for the kind words man and yes you can go as deep as you would like on the platter. I only went a 1/2” deep because it’s all I needed but you can go as deep as you need 👍
I’ve listened to YOU, and I made this video to answer your most frequently asked questions about flush trimming on the ROUTER TABLE. Here is a link to the acrylic templates if you’re ready to have some fun with flush trimming. Thank you for supporting my channel 🙏🏻 Templates ⬇️ designsbydonnie.com/templates/
Thanx for the advice. Nice plate created 👍 Do you have advice regarding router lifters in the midle price range. I will try put some water on the sides, looks like a good trick.
Hi, I'd appreciate a little shared experience from you Donnie. I find jigsaw is really slow and vibrates like a total bastard. Mine is a cheapy and has only speed variation, no oscillating change at all. With new high quality blade suitable for the MDF I'm cutting I was still struggling. I tried a small bandsaw and wow... effortless by comparison. I even ended up using my reciprocating saw with a demo blade to rapidly cut out the excess for my template routing tasks (I let the narrow blade end cut it's way into a drill hole and make straight cuts between drill holes... it actually worked great since the rough edge is being routed anyway. Not easy at bench height though so I ended up doing it on a millk crate.. Is this normal for a jigsaw or do I just have a crap one? I don't have the space for a 10" bandsaw and only the trash quality ones are light enough for me to store it and carry out to the bench when I need it.
Please provide a source for the 1/2” flush trim bit shown at 6:20 it appears to be a spiral design. Spiral bits with a top bearing are fairly rare. Thank you.
@@DesignsbyDonnieSorry, no not the Amana 47164, I’m talking about the bit in your left hand at 6:20 it has a rather short cutting height and a top bearing.
Good content. I need to make a template for oak, the luan I used earlier was so-so (had a soft spot and caused a divot. Hardboard or masonite might be better. But I used some clear pine because that’s what I have here. Plan to try your water trick in a few minutes.
Thanks for this video! Super helpful - I've bought a bunch of your templates and now I just need to make a ton of Christmas gifts with them. Going to the garage to try out the water on the edges trick now! Also going to practice on some softer common board. I always like to "go big or go home" so I got a bunch of hardwood to make projects with, but maybe a practice board or two wouldn't hurt after hearing your tips :)
I was always taught to do the end grain first. If you chip out on the end grain at the corner then some of that will be routed off on the straight grain side. BTW I have your face template and love it.
Thank you so much 👊 the faceplate tool is so great. I don’t remember what I did without it lol, oh and that is true with the chip out but it’s very dangerous to begin on the end grain as the bits catch easily on the end grain… just be careful but you got this 👊👊
I wonder what one of these would look like with finger/box joints between each member. I'd love to try it with Jatoba (possibly my favorite wood to work with) and Maple!
Thanks for the kind words brother… and you got this 👊 my journey has definitely been a roller coaster ride, full of ups and downs but I wouldn’t change for the world. My latest thought is that it’s a labor of love… some days love, some days labor lol 😂 anyway… I’m glad to be able to help 👍
The game changer for me was buying a band saw, some lumber like jatoba is nearly impossible to route without massive blowout unless you cut off all but a millimeter from the template
Have you done a review or thought about a review on that mirka sander. I already saw the price - high but if used alot may be worth it. Where do you source the paper. are there sponge pads, etc. I would watch in a heartbeat and it may push me over on actually getting one. Something to think about.
Thats a great idea... I didn't of doing a review on the sander, but I'm going to start thinking about all the info and hopefully do a video on this soon as I believe in the sander big time and it would be great information to know. On it! You're the best.
Thanks for the video, Donnie. Last year I bought your mouse template and it is easily the hardest routing I’ve ever done. Those antlers go in every direction and there’s not much to hold onto. Any specific tips when routing tight curves would be greatly appreciated
Oh gosh, sounds like you had a difficult time flush trimming it. Its actually really simple to flush but they're is a few things to help out with this one. Use a 1/4" spiral compression flush trim bit... this is not a necessity but will dramatically make it easier. Also, make sure the antlers are routing with the side grain on the top and bottom portion. If you take a board and turn it vertical so the grain orientation is going up and down, then turn the antler sideways so that its going up and down. That will make the top of the antler on the left side of the material and the bottom of antler will now be on the right side of the material. Both left and right sides will now be side grain. Wet the material well and flushing it will be so easy. While typing this, it sounds complex but it isn't. Now, I do have plans to make a full video on making this product but I most likely won't get to this one until the Fall of this year. I hope that information helps you in the meantime...
Amazing- thank you so much for taking the time to respond and offer some additional tips, Donnie. I appreciate it. The grain direction makes sense and I’ll be sure to wet the edges and ensure I’m using my compression bit for the next attempt. Thanks again
Hey Donnie I ordered the template now i'm buying white oak online can you please tell me the width of the puzzle part size including the nub ..thanks man...Chris
So i have a compact router. And I have a template for a shape that isn't working. I don't have a router table and running into the issue the that the template is face uo and not down. Any tips. Also where did you get the router face plate and the base
That’s no problem, you can use a compact trim router to do the same thing… but would be more helpful to the enlarged acrylic faceplate for the router and the router bits with two wheel bearings so that it doesn’t matter of the template is on top or bottom of the workpiece. I have the router faceplate and those bits on my site. Here is the link designsbydonnie.com/templates/
I cannot find my issue on you tube. as i try to feed through the router table it bumps my wood.. up.. causing all sorts of issues.. The only thing i can come up with is the insert maybe inclined
I looked up that infinty bit specs.. after a huge blowout.. Yea 18K RPM maximum.. smh I had it running at 25K on #6 speed only needed it on #3. Any tips on RPM's?
Great video. I actually have your router base plate. It's on my dewalt battery palm router and it does amazing but I never paid attention to if the one I have has the holes for the thumb handles. I've had it for about 3 or 4 months now I think. If it doesn't can I order the thumb handles from you and drill it myself???
Thank you so much for watching and the purchase. You ROCK! I offer two versions, the one that you got and the one with holes and handles but no worries as you can purchase the handles from my site and drill the holes yourself. The handles separately won’t be live on the site until later this afternoon though but I’ll keep you posted on them 👍
Why can you only use the "front side" of the bit (at 1:49 in the video), assuming of course, that you maintain the correct direction of rotation against the workpiece? If you stand on the opposite side of the table, the front and back swap over - everything is symmetrical, so what difference does it make?
you're a wealth of knowledge but damn you're a bad influence! 🤣😂 I've been eyeballin that Mirka since first seeing your videos a while back. Today I said Happy 4th to myself and pulled the trigger! Thanks for you videos Donnie!
Nice! Congratulations… I know it’s an expensive sander and it took me a hot minute to save for it but it’s totally worth it. You’re gonna use the heck out it!
There are some very important topics that you need to cover regarding router table usage. First, the router rotation is clockwise. When the router is inverted, the router bit rotation is counterclockwise. This means that the workpiece should be fed to the left side of the bit. Second, only up-cut spiral bits should be used in a router table. Up-shear flush trim bits should only be used in a router table. The up-cut helix will pull the workpiece towards the router. Never use down-cut spiral bits in a router table. Third, rough cutting the workpiece has many advantages. The distance of the rough cut is dependent upon the diameter of the router bit being used. Typically, the rough cut distance should be half the router bit diameter. Another tool most people don’t know about is a router shield. You can purchase this tool from Mobile Solutions. The template is attached to the router shield and the workpiece is attached to the template. This is a much safer way of machining small parts. Additional information regarding router bits should also be covered. One, how to distinguish the difference between an up-cut and down-cut spiral bit. Second, there is no such router bit called a straight bit. The proper name is a plunge bit. Again, only up-cut plunge bits should be used in a router table. Hand held applications, a down-cut plunge bit or down-cut spiral plunge bit can be used. These bits prevent tear out on the top side of the workpiece.
Great tips. I really wanted that sander when I saw it on another one of your videos. But man... that price tag is pretty high. Higher than I expected. I guess I'll just have to put it on my list and save for it. But first... need to start making those kinds of projects again lol
Yeah I can totally relate with you. That little sander is so expensive. I got busy making small woodworking projects and sold them at events. And every project that I sold I put $10 bucks to the side to go toward that sander purchase. Actually didn’t take that long but I love it. It’s legit. If you go to any events to sell products, go to wine festival events. I have a lot of luck at that shows selling charcuterie boards and cheese boards.
Hey man, I appreciate that. The actual wood platter I make sell at events for $90 🙌 here is a link to the project templates designsbydonnie.com/templates/
Thanks for this video I was having major problems with chip out on my black walnut. I had too much excess and i will definitely have to try the wetting of the edges and definitely be careful to not use anything but the front of the bit.
Good video and great pace. Informative and I picked up some good points. The downside was the language drops you added for no reason. You limit your audience with that.
So here's my dumb story... got a stratocaster guitar template for Christmas and I glue up my laminate of live oak (fiberous, dense, hard as hell, heavy, cross grained AF...) but its cool cause i got my nifty ultrashear carbide compression bit right?! So I bandsaw out everything to within a quarter inch (mistake 1) and leave the whole shebang in the neck cutouts because its a tight radius and i just know my bandsaw is going to complain about it (mistake 2) which is of course where i decided to start routering... thats important because I laminated 1x2" strips vertically so that was nothing but end grain (mistake 3) and didn’t use the safety pin because i was just going to freehand the hogout (mistake 4) long story short i looked up this video afterwards and now I know exactly why my knuckle is bleeding and the spindle on my router is bent! Dummy! 😂
Good stuff Donnie. I can always use more tips on template routing. The water tip looks like a winner, reminds me of a tip I picked up a while back on planing hardwood through the thickness planner and that is using a spritz of water on the surface to minimize chip out. Seems to help. I’ll be looking into your acrylic templates too. Thanks.
Thank you!! I’m happy the tips were useful. I’ll be dropping more technique’s with router work shortly. I couldn’t seem to pack all the info in the video. But yes, you’re so right, it helps greatly to spritz the hardwood before jointer and planer too! You rock 👊👊
I really appreciate that! Thank you for the kind words...Sorry, for the language... just being genuine to who I am. After a near death situation last year, I've learned that life can be short and I owe it to myself to be authentic and genuine, and I have a lot of information to share, but I totally understand. Thank you for watching and commenting... that means a lot to me!
I hardly ever make snap judgements, but this is the first video of yours I've seen and it was well thought out, informative, and genuinely funny (not cheesy). I look forward to watching more of your work.
PS, Your wife is such a good sport - nice touch!
These are great tips and I don’t mind the humor or swearing. It’s a nice change of pace from the “typical” videos
Thanks very much for posting this video. Flush trimming is a technique I've avoided for reason detailed in the first minute of your video. But I desperately needed to utilize this technique for a project I have going. Followed you tips and it was hugely successful. Thanks Donnie!
Cheers! I appreciate the advice. Never thought to soften the edges with water to avoid bad tear out. You learn something new every day.
Yeah, its a great tip and literally stopped my blow outs! I'm stoked that you liked it. Thanks for watching!
I also like the tip to wet the edges. When I rout edges when using templates, it is impossible to avoid going against the grain.
I've purchased a few of your templates and they have been on the shelf. So thankful to see this how-to. They fact that you are kewl as hell is a bonus.
Nice tips mate. And thanks for being genuine. No problems with swearing like a trooper - especially with yourself.
I appreciate that!! You ROCK bro!
I love you're no nonsense way of describing what it is that you are doing.....excellent job....I am a subscriber!
Thank you! You ROCK 👊
ABFAB. Absolutely the best presentation of valuable points, and supplying a comprehensive list of suppliers. Many thanks Donnie.
This was the first video I watched from you. I loved it! You do a great job. You weren’t kidding! That little sander is EXPENSIVE! Subscribed!
Liked & Subscribed.
I appreciate the pace of your video, there's so much out there to see that I don't have time to waste on people rambling or going off topic for more than a moment. You did a great balance of being personable but also keeping the ball moving forward. Thank you, the tip about wetting the edges is something I'm putting in the toolbox up between my ears.
One of the scarier things to happen in woodworking is when a router bit catches the grain the wrong way and sends the piece flying. Despite being observant and careful, it happens. I bought an expensive bit just because of the issue, Whiteside Model UDC9112 Spiral Combination for about $200. It's not a 100% effective, but it is much better than anything else I've tried. As you mentioned in the video, it's very important to get within 1/8" or less to the finished line. I'm going to try your water trick next time, never saw that before. Thanks for posting. Mark
That’s how i got my first and only woodworking injury…. Thankful it just took a big chunk out of my middle finger.
I bought one of those the other day. Better than a straight cut. Still didn't solve the end grain problem, but gave me a better chance at success per piece.
Lol, just got a pattern bit and glad I found this video, thanks for the tips and the laughter
Thanks for the video! I don’t have a table, rather just a palm router. I’ve noticed the slower the speed on the palm router, the less tear out. Will try the water trick
Great tips and beautiful work. Subbed immediately. I, for one, love the casual, straightforward approach to your narration. The "language" that some others are complaining about complements your work. Great stuff man!
Thank you brother 👊 I appreciate that big time! I want to be genuine to who I am and this is my every day language 👍
I'm going to be buying my first trim router pretty soon, so your tips will certainly come in handy. Thanks very much and hi from Calgary, Alberta, Canada! :) Oh, the router I'll be getting is a RIDGID corded 1/4" shank.
Lucky duck! What a size ofa shop! A question I have is what about using those guide pins? Do they help?
Love all your templates! Didn’t realize your channel was so awesome (and informatively funny) 😂
lol, thank you brother! You made my day!
Cool job mate, thanks for all the tips, I’m an ex- mechanic, retired and learning how to munch up wood
Very informative video. Thank you.
Question: what kind of flush trim bit would you recommend to trim a piece of acrylic?
Interesting - never thought spiral was best for hardwoods and straight for soft. Makes sense. What would you use for paper-clad styrofoam? Gonna need to set up to do production cut-outs and haven't got item 1 yet.
i love these longer form videos keep it up man!
Glad you like them! I’ll keep them coming 👊👊
@@DesignsbyDonnie Amazing, I can’t wait!!
We bought several of your acrylic templates and they're great and we've had absolutely no problem flush trimming,, up till now.
We have the double Christmas tree,, where one slides inside the other to form the tree. Although we've done these in the past, for some reason, no matter what we try, we're still getting terrible kickback when we first entered a router blade. The only thing that we're doing different than your video is that we're using a straight bit which we have used in the past with no trouble. Do you have any idea whatsoever? What we could be doing wrong? Of course, other than the bits that you suggest.
Bro. Thank you for this. I was using the wine caddy template on some canary wood. Hit an area with reverse grain and almost what myself.
Oh man, I know the feeling! I haven’t had anything dangerous or chip outs in years though! Follow these tips on the video and you will be flushing easily with confidence in no time. Thanks for watching my man, and I’m stoked that I could help 👊
Great content. Good pacing. Fantastic tips.
I was in an NCO leadership class years ago, and the instructor made a comment that stuck with me:
"Profanity does not convey professionalism"
Am I offended by it? No. Does it add to your quality. Hard no.
Hey great video
but what tool do you use to get your counter sink holes (with the ledge) on the acrylic
I have a 90-degree reaming bit but that leaves an angle on the drilled hole
how do you get that smooth straight wall on your counter sink holes
Regards, Rick
I was here to try to figure out the 1/4” flush trim but you showed but didn’t use. It has a collar with an Allen screw. Why would you need to move it if you can only trim 3/8” at a time. Anyway, nice templates!!
A couple of things here. First off, I laughed my butt off when you pulled out the huge leaf blower to clean off the table. For whatever reason, that really cracked me up. Second, I just bought a beautiful router set (fixed and plunge set from Dewalt). I quickly found out that I totally suck at routing. My piece looked like something a beaver left on the ground as a reject after gnawing down a tree in the woods. I REALLY want to make a nice breadbox for my wife for Christmas, but I don't want it to end up on Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer's Island of the Misfits when I'm done. I like the tip about using some water, too. I'll give that a shot.
I probably shouldn't be too hard on myself because I've only had the router three days and I'm a rank amateur woodworker, but being a perfectionist makes me my own worst enemy. I do look forward to looking backward to see how far I've come in mastering the tool, but in the meantime, I suck at it. Watching how easily your trimming went gives me hope and inspiration. Thanks.
Not sure if my question will be seen or not, but I need to smooth the side of a wood an epoxy table which bit would be best for this , table is 3ftx 5ft
Thanks for the router advice. I’ll always keep in mind, maintaining my work on the frontside of the router bit.
I had some issues routing inside holes with a template. Holy cow, it was pretty spooky for a beginner.
I’m glad the tips helped out. And yes holes can be tricky but even for holes, keep it on the front side of the tape and you will be good. Sometimes you have to keep repositioning the material to make that happen because the mind just wants to go all the way around.
Great tips! Had never heard of wetting the side of the wood before routing. Also, I have a cnc and was considering making a few acrylic templates. Do you use that or a laser to make yours?
Terrific video and tips. I’ve been doing this years but learned some great tips and also very handy to see tips I had seen before well explained in one place.
Enjoyed the info, liked the water tip on the hardwood. Also visited your templet store I’ll be back there
I admire all your work and want to build stuff just like you! Thanks for the video!!
Thank you for the kind words brother! you GOT this 👊
Really beautiful work, Donnie! 😃
Thanks a bunch for all the tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I had some fun with this video and I appreciate you watching... you're the best!
Thanks for the excellent demonstration and tips! I'm interested in the 1/2 compression bit you showed and recommended, however the link is for a 5/8 x 7/8. Hoping you might be able to include a link to the 1/2 x 1-1/4.
Wow, I've never had a tear out problem on any wood I have used in the past 50 years of wood working and I've made a lot of money with it. No matter what wood I have used, I have just not had the problems you show... I use a 1/2 inch shearing bit on all my work soft or hard.
That’s great, that you haven’t had any of those issues. That’s wild to me, as the majority frequently have those issues. Out of curiosity are you flush trimming specifically or do you mean that you haven’t had any tear out with just router table work? Because flushing is entirely different animal. Just curious. But that’s fantastic man, whatever you’re doing, keep it up 👍
Great tips - first time I heard of the water on the edges. Will need to try it out in near future. I’ve been eyeing that sander in your IG and YT shorts. Will need to check out the link. I have noticed your focus on templates and small projects lately. Just watched your table video where you talked about losing your shop - it all comes together now. Keep the information coming.
Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful and yup, life can throw a lot of curve balls sometimes! Occasionally we swing and miss, but sometimes we knock it out of the park! Thanks for watching dude!
Thanks for the video. I want to build some of these when I find the time. I’m rebuilding my house right now. The only thing wrong with this, it’s not deep enough. That tray doesn’t hold enough for one person. Is it an easy fix?
Thanks for the kind words man and yes you can go as deep as you would like on the platter. I only went a 1/2” deep because it’s all I needed but you can go as deep as you need 👍
I’ve listened to YOU, and I made this video to answer your most frequently asked questions about flush trimming on the ROUTER TABLE. Here is a link to the acrylic templates if you’re ready to have some fun with flush trimming. Thank you for supporting my channel 🙏🏻 Templates ⬇️
designsbydonnie.com/templates/
thank you, where did you get that bit you use?
Where did you get the little hand grips for your acrylic base?
Thanks
Great explanatory video! May I ask where you acquired your heavy duty black saw horse stands (@4:27)? Thanks!
do the router template bushings fit on your acrylic extended router base?
Thanx for the advice. Nice plate created 👍
Do you have advice regarding router lifters in the midle price range.
I will try put some water on the sides, looks like a good trick.
Hi, I'd appreciate a little shared experience from you Donnie.
I find jigsaw is really slow and vibrates like a total bastard. Mine is a cheapy and has only speed variation, no oscillating change at all. With new high quality blade suitable for the MDF I'm cutting I was still struggling.
I tried a small bandsaw and wow... effortless by comparison.
I even ended up using my reciprocating saw with a demo blade to rapidly cut out the excess for my template routing tasks (I let the narrow blade end cut it's way into a drill hole and make straight cuts between drill holes... it actually worked great since the rough edge is being routed anyway. Not easy at bench height though so I ended up doing it on a millk crate..
Is this normal for a jigsaw or do I just have a crap one?
I don't have the space for a 10" bandsaw and only the trash quality ones are light enough for me to store it and carry out to the bench when I need it.
Please provide a source for the 1/2” flush trim bit shown at 6:20 it appears to be a spiral design. Spiral bits with a top bearing are fairly rare. Thank you.
Hey, yeah they’re amazing to use. Here is a link to them designsbydonnie.com/product/flush-trim-1-2-compression-bit/
@@DesignsbyDonnieSorry, no not the Amana 47164, I’m talking about the bit in your left hand at 6:20 it has a rather short cutting height and a top bearing.
literally had blow out on some oak last week, would have loved to try that water tip. Next time!
Good content. I need to make a template for oak, the luan I used earlier was so-so (had a soft spot and caused a divot. Hardboard or masonite might be better. But I used some clear pine because that’s what I have here. Plan to try your water trick in a few minutes.
Thanks for this video! Super helpful - I've bought a bunch of your templates and now I just need to make a ton of Christmas gifts with them. Going to the garage to try out the water on the edges trick now! Also going to practice on some softer common board. I always like to "go big or go home" so I got a bunch of hardwood to make projects with, but maybe a practice board or two wouldn't hurt after hearing your tips :)
I was always taught to do the end grain first. If you chip out on the end grain at the corner then some of that will be routed off on the straight grain side.
BTW I have your face template and love it.
Thank you so much 👊 the faceplate tool is so great. I don’t remember what I did without it lol, oh and that is true with the chip out but it’s very dangerous to begin on the end grain as the bits catch easily on the end grain… just be careful but you got this 👊👊
@jkbaer3086 you're not wrong about what you were taught. I find that advice is mostly fitting for chamfer bits and roundovers when using a fence.
@@stephenlee3642 Thanks...that was helpful.
Love your wooden platters!! Great tips and tricks!
Yes! Thank you so much!!!
Another question what jig saw blades do you use to cut say black walnut?
I like to use the BI-Metal jig saw blades 4” 👍 it cuts nice and the blades last a long time. I believe Diablo makes them.
@@DesignsbyDonnie thanks for the info
Please give me the link to the acrylic plate for the router.
Hi, here is the link to the Templates ⬇️
designsbydonnie.com/templates/
I wonder what one of these would look like with finger/box joints between each member. I'd love to try it with Jatoba (possibly my favorite wood to work with) and Maple!
This was an awesome video and thank you for the lessons here. Woodworking seems to be my Achilles Heel but determined to get better at it.
Thanks for the kind words brother… and you got this 👊 my journey has definitely been a roller coaster ride, full of ups and downs but I wouldn’t change for the world. My latest thought is that it’s a labor of love… some days love, some days labor lol 😂 anyway… I’m glad to be able to help 👍
Good video. A lot of useful advice and an interesting project. Thank you for sharing.
The game changer for me was buying a band saw, some lumber like jatoba is nearly impossible to route without massive blowout unless you cut off all but a millimeter from the template
This is the video i needed for my project... Thank you sir... Thank you UA-cam 🎉
Have you done a review or thought about a review on that mirka sander. I already saw the price - high but if used alot may be worth it. Where do you source the paper. are there sponge pads, etc. I would watch in a heartbeat and it may push me over on actually getting one. Something to think about.
Thats a great idea... I didn't of doing a review on the sander, but I'm going to start thinking about all the info and hopefully do a video on this soon as I believe in the sander big time and it would be great information to know. On it! You're the best.
Thanks for the video, Donnie. Last year I bought your mouse template and it is easily the hardest routing I’ve ever done. Those antlers go in every direction and there’s not much to hold onto. Any specific tips when routing tight curves would be greatly appreciated
Oh gosh, sounds like you had a difficult time flush trimming it. Its actually really simple to flush but they're is a few things to help out with this one. Use a 1/4" spiral compression flush trim bit... this is not a necessity but will dramatically make it easier. Also, make sure the antlers are routing with the side grain on the top and bottom portion. If you take a board and turn it vertical so the grain orientation is going up and down, then turn the antler sideways so that its going up and down. That will make the top of the antler on the left side of the material and the bottom of antler will now be on the right side of the material. Both left and right sides will now be side grain. Wet the material well and flushing it will be so easy. While typing this, it sounds complex but it isn't. Now, I do have plans to make a full video on making this product but I most likely won't get to this one until the Fall of this year. I hope that information helps you in the meantime...
Amazing- thank you so much for taking the time to respond and offer some additional tips, Donnie. I appreciate it. The grain direction makes sense and I’ll be sure to wet the edges and ensure I’m using my compression bit for the next attempt. Thanks again
Nice video - no nonsense and some good tips. You have a new subscriber !
Thank you! I appreciate that 👊👊
Excellent tips, did not know about the water trick. Thanks!
Thank you and I’m pumped that o could offer some tips to help out. You ROCK man 🙌
Hey Donnie I ordered the template now i'm buying white oak online can you please tell me the width of the puzzle part size including the nub ..thanks man...Chris
Hey Chris, just seeing this buddy… the puzzle piece is approximately 6.5” by 6.5” 👍
So i have a compact router. And I have a template for a shape that isn't working. I don't have a router table and running into the issue the that the template is face uo and not down. Any tips. Also where did you get the router face plate and the base
That’s no problem, you can use a compact trim router to do the same thing… but would be more helpful to the enlarged acrylic faceplate for the router and the router bits with two wheel bearings so that it doesn’t matter of the template is on top or bottom of the workpiece. I have the router faceplate and those bits on my site. Here is the link designsbydonnie.com/templates/
I cannot find my issue on you tube. as i try to feed through the router table it bumps my wood.. up.. causing all sorts of issues.. The only thing i can come up with is the insert maybe inclined
I looked up that infinty bit specs.. after a huge blowout.. Yea 18K RPM maximum.. smh I had it running at 25K on #6 speed only needed it on #3. Any tips on RPM's?
You mean use the bit then while the edges are still damp? Does that dull the bit?
Great video. I actually have your router base plate. It's on my dewalt battery palm router and it does amazing but I never paid attention to if the one I have has the holes for the thumb handles. I've had it for about 3 or 4 months now I think. If it doesn't can I order the thumb handles from you and drill it myself???
Thank you so much for watching and the purchase. You ROCK! I offer two versions, the one that you got and the one with holes and handles but no worries as you can purchase the handles from my site and drill the holes yourself. The handles separately won’t be live on the site until later this afternoon though but I’ll keep you posted on them 👍
Why can you only use the "front side" of the bit (at 1:49 in the video), assuming of course, that you maintain the correct direction of rotation against the workpiece? If you stand on the opposite side of the table, the front and back swap over - everything is symmetrical, so what difference does it make?
I agree....it's the movement or direction of the work piece, rather than which side of the table you work from.
you're a wealth of knowledge but damn you're a bad influence! 🤣😂 I've been eyeballin that Mirka since first seeing your videos a while back. Today I said Happy 4th to myself and pulled the trigger! Thanks for you videos Donnie!
Nice! Congratulations… I know it’s an expensive sander and it took me a hot minute to save for it but it’s totally worth it. You’re gonna use the heck out it!
Wholly crap.... that sander is beyond expensive!!!
Thanks for the water tip.... I'm going to try that later today
Thanks for the tips! You weren't kidding about the price of that sander. I'll have to get a job...
I subscribed because of your reaction to the "Does size matter?" question LOL
does the template fit the Skil Router?
Pre diabetic ... I had to start following you
Just starting on my router journey. Thanks for the tips!
You’re right, I was not prepared for the price of that mini sander haha
How do you create those templates?
There are some very important topics that you need to cover regarding router table usage. First, the router rotation is clockwise. When the router is inverted, the router bit rotation is counterclockwise. This means that the workpiece should be fed to the left side of the bit. Second, only up-cut spiral bits should be used in a router table. Up-shear flush trim bits should only be used in a router table. The up-cut helix will pull the workpiece towards the router. Never use down-cut spiral bits in a router table. Third, rough cutting the workpiece has many advantages. The distance of the rough cut is dependent upon the diameter of the router bit being used. Typically, the rough cut distance should be half the router bit diameter. Another tool most people don’t know about is a router shield. You can purchase this tool from Mobile Solutions. The template is attached to the router shield and the workpiece is attached to the template. This is a much safer way of machining small parts.
Additional information regarding router bits should also be covered. One, how to distinguish the difference between an up-cut and down-cut spiral bit. Second, there is no such router bit called a straight bit. The proper name is a plunge bit. Again, only up-cut plunge bits should be used in a router table. Hand held applications, a down-cut plunge bit or down-cut spiral plunge bit can be used. These bits prevent tear out on the top side of the workpiece.
Good mix of tips and humor
You've solved a couple of my issues! Yeah!
Yes! That’s what I wanted to hear, thank you for telling me. You got this 👊
Great tips. I really wanted that sander when I saw it on another one of your videos. But man... that price tag is pretty high. Higher than I expected. I guess I'll just have to put it on my list and save for it. But first... need to start making those kinds of projects again lol
Yeah I can totally relate with you. That little sander is so expensive. I got busy making small woodworking projects and sold them at events. And every project that I sold I put $10 bucks to the side to go toward that sander purchase. Actually didn’t take that long but I love it. It’s legit. If you go to any events to sell products, go to wine festival events. I have a lot of luck at that shows selling charcuterie boards and cheese boards.
You be you! F&@$ the haters! I actually subscribed because of the language and stayed around for the great tips.
Donnie, you curse in a very funny way... 😂😂😂 Great video
Great video…appreciate the advice. So new at using my router this is a great help.
Subscribed! 👍🙂 Greetz from The Netherlands, Nick
Do you sell the jobsite router template as a digital file so i can make it myself?
I do sell digital files for all my pattern’s except for the tools like the jobsite faceplate.
@@DesignsbyDonnie ah, got it. I was just trying to save myself some design time lol
Nice to see someone else use the yard blower to tidy up 😂
Man sure like this video I'm going to order thee templates. Can you reply and let me know what you priice thiis out when you sell?
Hey man, I appreciate that. The actual wood platter I make sell at events for $90 🙌 here is a link to the project templates designsbydonnie.com/templates/
Thak you sir, your video just saved my fingers!
That one corner is end grain to edge grain... Not concerned about wood movement?
nouse of a pivot pin on the router table for flush trimming hands free ???
Great video Donnie. Good tips.
Thanks brother! Long time no talk
@@DesignsbyDonnie I know right! Went full time last year. Crazy busy making furniture and trying this youtube thing.
Oh I definitely subscribe to your channel, love it!😊
Nice Templates but the price is a bit high to send to Germany, but your work explanation is very useful.👍
Thanks for this video I was having major problems with chip out on my black walnut. I had too much excess and i will definitely have to try the wetting of the edges and definitely be careful to not use anything but the front of the bit.
These techniques will dramatically help out. It will get increasingly easier each time now 👍
Good video and great pace. Informative and I picked up some good points. The downside was the language drops you added for no reason. You limit your audience with that.
So here's my dumb story... got a stratocaster guitar template for Christmas and I glue up my laminate of live oak (fiberous, dense, hard as hell, heavy, cross grained AF...) but its cool cause i got my nifty ultrashear carbide compression bit right?! So I bandsaw out everything to within a quarter inch (mistake 1) and leave the whole shebang in the neck cutouts because its a tight radius and i just know my bandsaw is going to complain about it (mistake 2) which is of course where i decided to start routering... thats important because I laminated 1x2" strips vertically so that was nothing but end grain (mistake 3) and didn’t use the safety pin because i was just going to freehand the hogout (mistake 4) long story short i looked up this video afterwards and now I know exactly why my knuckle is bleeding and the spindle on my router is bent! Dummy! 😂
Good stuff Donnie. I can always use more tips on template routing. The water tip looks like a winner, reminds me of a tip I picked up a while back on planing hardwood through the thickness planner and that is using a spritz of water on the surface to minimize chip out. Seems to help. I’ll be looking into your acrylic templates too. Thanks.
Thank you!! I’m happy the tips were useful. I’ll be dropping more technique’s with router work shortly. I couldn’t seem to pack all the info in the video. But yes, you’re so right, it helps greatly to spritz the hardwood before jointer and planer too! You rock 👊👊
DONNIE….. thank you so much for your video!!! Great info on all this Shit I’ve been doing wrong/right 🤣
Greatly appreciated
I’m glad that I could help! You got this 👊
Thank you for the video- very informative. Not a fan of the language but liked the content. 😊
I really appreciate that! Thank you for the kind words...Sorry, for the language... just being genuine to who I am. After a near death situation last year, I've learned that life can be short and I owe it to myself to be authentic and genuine, and I have a lot of information to share, but I totally understand. Thank you for watching and commenting... that means a lot to me!