Hi Joe, I was typing this comment as I was watching your video and you mentioned the wire brush method at the end. I’ve used the wire brush method a while ago, because I wanted to try it out, and when I looked up those crayons, they were kind of pricey at the time, and I had a big selection of small wire brushes. I put heat shrink around the end of the bristles. The closer to the end, the tighter the bristles will be. You use valve lapping compound as the abrasive. There are different grits of the compound. If you have ever seen the machine turning on expensive watches, you can get similar tiny results with the tiny wire brushes and the compound. Thanks again Joe for another great video. Cheers, Ken
Hi Ken, Yes I have also tried the lapping compound method but I find it a little messy when doing it to an engine base but it works very well with small pieces. Thank you for your input and thank you for watching. Joe
Great video, thank you for posting. Many years ago I saw someone do this using a new pencil in a drill press. They spread a thin coat of scouring powder on the metal and used the eraser to make the swirls.
20+ years ago I did some interior car panels, door panels and rear bulkhead. I used a 1-1.5 inch Scotchbrite pad on a Velcro disc. Had to fab a press large enough to get to the centre of the panels then reverse everything. I suspended and braced it from the rafters in my shop. I had to eyeball every mark because I couldn't get a fence to work. What a project that was.
Yes that method works well also, I’ve used it myself. The video was more about how to make a straight line without going through a lot of trouble. Some of the videos make it a lot more complicated than it has to be. I was just trying to show how easy it can be.Thank you for your input and your support. Joe
Hey Joe- it sure was great meeting you at Cabin Fever. Your models are just absolutely amazing in person. I hope you do create the video about machining the tapered groves on column post that you were talking about. I would love to see that!
Flashes me back to my youth, and jeweling rifle bolts, in a pair of v-blocks, against a improvised fence. Instead of moving the fence, I incrementally rotated the bolt in the v-blocks. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your interest and your comment . That is what lets us know that we are doing something useful. Also We appreciate hearing from our subscribers. Joe
You're welcome Joe! The thing that impressed me most was the fact that no squaring up is necessary; obviously, because the craytex is ony ever coming down on one point. Thanks again, looking forward to learning more stuff!
Nice Joe ! i have to try it again, i tried it a couple months ago but i wasnt happy with the results. by the way , the governor looks awesome . i wanted to also let you know, my Otto D2 from the engineers Emporium will arrive this week, i already saw the castings when a mate opend the box before shipping , they look amazing well made, come with 20 pages A4 plans and a CD with about 100 pics and a build instruction.
Hi Pirmin, sounds like a very good casting set, I love to see a photo of them when they arrive. Getting a new project is always very exciting to me. Please keep me posted. That governor is for my Galloway steam engine model. It’s a very interesting engine.
I guess a guy could get different diameters by using the tapered end of the cratex and cutting it at the desired diameter. Assuming it doesn't wear too fast, of course.
Interesting thought ,I think I might just try that. It doesn’t seem to wear very fast so I would think you could do a small part before it starts to get larger . Thank you for the idea. Joe
It really is a f* ton simpler of a process for flat stuff thats for sure. I'd be curious to know if you ever tried on round stock such as, let's say, a rifle bolt or similar. A simple way would certainly help...
Im certain heavy metal music would be perfect to help keep a steady rythm! Would be torture after a few minutes but chances are alot would have been done, hahha...
That’s a good question, I don’t actually know because I don’t have a speed control on my drill press. I would estimate I’m using about 500 RPMs. But that’s only a guess. Thank you for your interest regards Joe.
It took some help but I changed heading. Thank you for the heads up , I’ve always heard it called engine turning and never checked it out. It’s my own fault for not checking.Thanks again and thanks for watching. Joe
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Hi Joe, I was typing this comment as I was watching your video and you mentioned the wire brush method at the end.
I’ve used the wire brush method a while ago, because I wanted to try it out, and when I looked up those crayons, they were kind of pricey at the time, and I had a big selection of small wire brushes. I put heat shrink around the end of the bristles.
The closer to the end, the tighter the bristles will be. You use valve lapping compound as the abrasive. There are different grits of the compound. If you have ever seen the machine turning on expensive watches, you can get similar tiny results with the tiny wire brushes and the compound.
Thanks again Joe for another great video.
Cheers, Ken
Hi Ken,
Yes I have also tried the lapping compound method but I find it a little messy when doing it to an engine base but it works very well with small pieces. Thank you for your input and thank you for watching. Joe
Great video, thank you for posting. Many years ago I saw someone do this using a new pencil in a drill press. They spread a thin coat of scouring powder on the metal and used the eraser to make the swirls.
20+ years ago I did some interior car panels, door panels and rear bulkhead. I used a 1-1.5 inch Scotchbrite pad on a Velcro disc. Had to fab a press large enough to get to the centre of the panels then reverse everything. I suspended and braced it from the rafters in my shop. I had to eyeball every mark because I couldn't get a fence to work. What a project that was.
Yes that method works well also, I’ve used it myself. The video was more about how to make a straight line without going through a lot of trouble. Some of the videos make it a lot more complicated than it has to be. I was just trying to show how easy it can be.Thank you for your input and your support. Joe
Hey Joe- it sure was great meeting you at Cabin Fever. Your models are just absolutely amazing in person. I hope you do create the video about machining the tapered groves on column post that you were talking about. I would love to see that!
It’s coming I hope this week. . Joe
Flashes me back to my youth, and jeweling rifle bolts, in a pair of v-blocks, against a improvised fence. Instead of moving the fence, I incrementally rotated the bolt in the v-blocks.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your support and your comments. Joe
I like your technique Joe; it is much simpler than turning out on the milling machine. 👍
Thank you for your comment, and you correct the milling machine method is very accurate but also very time consuming.🤔
Thanks for sharing joe ,nice.
Nice!!!!
I’m going to try that on some surfaces of my lathe and mill. Very classy look. 🙂👍
Thank you for your interest and your comment . Good luck with your projects . Joe
Excellent, so obvious when you demonstrate it, thanks for the video!
Thank you for your interest and your comment . That is what lets us know that we are doing something useful. Also We appreciate hearing from our subscribers. Joe
You're welcome Joe! The thing that impressed me most was the fact that no squaring up is necessary; obviously, because the craytex is ony ever coming down on one point. Thanks again, looking forward to learning more stuff!
Nice Joe ! i have to try it again, i tried it a couple months ago but i wasnt happy with the results. by the way , the governor looks awesome . i wanted to also let you know, my Otto D2 from the engineers Emporium will arrive this week, i already saw the castings when a mate opend the box before shipping , they look amazing well made, come with 20 pages A4 plans and a CD with about 100 pics and a build instruction.
Hi Pirmin, sounds like a very good casting set, I love to see a photo of them when they arrive. Getting a new project is always very exciting to me. Please keep me posted.
That governor is for my Galloway steam engine model. It’s a very interesting engine.
I guess a guy could get different diameters by using the tapered end of the cratex and cutting it at the desired diameter. Assuming it doesn't wear too fast, of course.
Interesting thought ,I think I might just try that. It doesn’t seem to wear very fast so I would think you could do a small part before it starts to get larger . Thank you for the idea. Joe
It really is a f* ton simpler of a process for flat stuff thats for sure. I'd be curious to know if you ever tried on round stock such as, let's say, a rifle bolt or similar. A simple way would certainly help...
No sorry I have only just done flat surfaces. I can see that a rifle bolt might be a little bit difficult. Thank you for your interest. Joe
Joe. Great video. Will this technique work with thicker wall tube - like copper tube with a .032 wall?
@@hollyhollerith3500 I’m not sure I have never tried using it.. I think it might be pretty hard to work with. Joe
Im certain heavy metal music would be perfect to help keep a steady rythm! Would be torture after a few minutes but chances are alot would have been done, hahha...
What speed do you run the drill press?
That’s a good question, I don’t actually know because I don’t have a speed control on my drill press. I would estimate I’m using about 500 RPMs. But that’s only a guess. Thank you for your interest regards Joe.
It'scalled Perlage ! not engine turning ! engine turning is a totally different beast :)
It took some help but I changed heading. Thank you for the heads up , I’ve always heard it called engine turning and never checked it out. It’s my own fault for not checking.Thanks again and thanks for watching. Joe