I expect the crack will reappear because there is nothing of any strength holding together the two sides of the crack. Filling in like this only works if you first create a good bond between the two sides of the crack, typically with epoxy or with metal fasteners (I use 4mm diameter gr 304 stainless rod that won't rust and is cheap. Also, when you fill in the crack with mortar you need to first make the concrete quite damp so the mortar sticks to it and it helps to also apply a bonding agent (typically liquid) as well. Step one - open up the crack like in the video though you don't need smooth edges but in fact rough irregular edges are better because they aid bonding. Step two - brush or blow out crack to get rid of loose material. Step three - wet the concrete crack. Step four - while the concrete is still very damp but not wet, brush on a bonding agent. Step five - fill in the gap with mortar (cheaper to make your own with one part cement, three parts coarse sand, and two parts patching compound). When the mortar is still damp, brush like in the video and then sprinkle over it some sand of a shade that best matches the colour of the surrounding concrete (Reduces the white bleached look) or brush on a soupy mud mixture made from water and plain old dirt to make it look like old concrete. Optional Step 6 - to hide the repair completely, apply a concrete resurfacer to the entire concrete pad/path/ driveway or whatever, or paint it.
My builder did it like we see here in the video, i think it's pretty common because it's easy. Every single crack was back again within one season. These types of patches don't even last temporarily.
I'm thinking that you could have saved the dust and debris from the angle grinding to put on top of your patch, which would allow a better color match and blending to the original surface
That was my thought too. I’m going to use concrete to sprinkle on top and then lightly press it into the still wet patch material. I’m going to sift the concrete to remove large rocks first.
Correct…it’s the same it’s wood when you drill a hole save the sawdust and then mix it with glue, fill the gap with the sawdust job done can’t see the hole
The best is to use a crack chaser wheel in your 4” grinder. Then backer rod in the widen crack then self leveling Sika Flex joint compound. I’m a retired contractor and did many cracks that way.
I used a chisel and made a1 to 2 inch GAP in my crack. I left the jagged edges and a lot was 45 degrees under. Then I used concrete bonding agent. Used paint brush and applied very liberally to all surface area inside the crack. Then I dry poured mortar into the crack. Tapped a hammer on both sides of the crack. I used a trowel to level, I used the mist setting on house and done. Applied water every hour for 4 hours. Came out perfect.
Good video you did a good job I just have one suggestion that I do for blending in with old concrete whether it be cement to fill in a crack or that light gray caulk I'll usually let it dry to 50% dry and then smear black dirt on top of it and leave it to dry rest of the way and it pretty much Blends in with the rest of the cement. It was a tip I got from an old Mason works pretty well
I cut vertical sides along the crack. I can only go 1" deep with my grinder. I cut strips of 1" felt paper and put them in the crack. I mixed 1 part Portland with 2 parts sand to make mortar. i used the trowel to work mortar in on both sides of the felt paper. Fixing cracks in concrete is always temporary. The felt paper will allow for some expansion, which is why the crack formed in the first place. When it cracks again, it will likely follow the paper, rather than make a jagged mess.
I’ve tried many concrete fixes over the years. The best for cracks, for me, is Sashco products, Gray Slab which comes in a convenient tube for a caulking gun. IT STICKS, STRETCHES & STAYS.
Yes.. the dudes concrete cracked because concrete doesn't "stretch".. so the patch must Stretch, or it wil crack too. Thanks for the product tip... I have some repairs to do!!
I gotta say, the 45 degree angles were backwards...if you have the bottom of your repair area wider than the top, you don't get pop-outs from the freeze thaw cycle. If you're in an area that never freezes, it's not that big a deal, but in northern climates, you need to "keyway" your repair.
I like the Quikrete. I have watched some videos by an old school mason from Pennsylvania, Mike Haddock. He puts a mud slurry over his concrete patches to give it that used look.
Every crack like that becomes an expansion joint that moves with thermal variations. So it is more convenient fixing it with a self levelling flexible compound, uness you cross stitch the two sides with pre-drilled dowels, and then you can use a rigid expansive mix.
Kintsugi...came to mind when the same thing happened to the concrete path...but with leveled river stones and pea gravel...kinda inspired by those river tables....maybe opening up those cracks to fill in with fun and treasure.
Thanks for the tutorial. It would be great to see the way it looks after full cure and a little wear on it. Personally if the crack repair remains quite visible then i would have gone ahead replaced a little larger panel for aesthetics. That is not a criticism just personal preference. Great video.
Lots of good comments. As far as adding the ground up powder for a color match. I would say dampen it first. Drawing out too much moisture too quick as powder can do may cause cracking. Letting it cure in direct sunlight, especially on a hot day might not be such a good idea either. Rapid drying may cause cracks. Laying something over it to block the sun might be a good idea.
Good idea! I had a question to ask; wouldn't it be better to have the 45 degree angle a reverse 45 degree angle? That way it would be less likely to pop up; the 45 degree angle would hold the mortar in place. I appreciate your input and thanks for the video and idea! Blessings to you and your family, Kevin Barron
Nice vid! I have added a little aggravate and sand to the top to match like an “art project”. I am not sure if that will ruin the integrity of the mortar? I use Dow Seal, but it’s expensive like $20 per sausage. Loved the tips on expansion joint vs. crack. That was super helpful bc I treated them the same. Your way creates a better line. I used a rotor hammer chisel that works well.
I'm just a lay person but my thinking is the crack is due to ground shifting. Where I live the soil is heavy clay. If I am correct the joint should have flex in it and because of that I would have used a silicone based filler. I like the idea of opening up the crack with angle grinder. Look forward to other comments
Exactly what I was thinking. By filling it with the inflexible mortar, I would think that the crack will just reappear. Perhaps an expansion joint would have prevented the crack from forming in the first place. But in this case, the crack also goes across the asphalt, so it is not due to simple expected expansion but from other forces like shifting ground or tree roots. I would have gone with the flexible concrete caulking. I would like to see a follow up video showing how the mortar patch holds up, or a video showing examples of how well both types of patches last.
How old was the crack? Years, months? The ground might have shifted and then settled. If it stopped settling, I think the mortar would work well. It would be nice to see a one-year update on this repair.
My driveway cracks were filled with the flexible guys and it shrunk and looks awful. Lasted about a year or less! I now am going to try exactly what this video suggests.
Thanks for the video, I have a huge crack on my driveway going horizontally, I wish you were near by to give me your opinion. I might try your method to close it.
Use a power washer or chemical (bleach) to clean up accumulated algae on the concrete (that's why it looks dark). When you patch, the color will match better. Also, use a rough wet sponge to blend the sides into the existing concrete.
I’ve been looking for a video on best way to fix cracks on driveways. Your 2 days late and already used the Ready mix one and I think the mortar looks better. 😔
I personally would use this for damaged concrete etc.. to fill cracks like this I would still use a flexible product like the " sica crack flex sealant " because that's most likely going to crack again with more movement unless you correct the root of the problem, the foundation underneath. Nothing against what is going on here, just me personally and how I personally feel about the situation. Great Video!
I would lean towards using the flexible stuff. That crack is there due to settling and if (big if) the settling continues over time it will crack again.
I’m in Italy and about to do a slightly wider gap early AM. Using instant cement at 92 degrees forecast in the afternoon. I’m ok with that drying temp?
Thanks a lot your video. It”s very useful for me because there are a lot of cracks on my drive way, the same as you have exposed aggregate concrete. I see some people using pea gravel toon top surface so it can match to the rest.
I have cracking on my drive way will this method work good for this? Or should I try another method. Please provide recommendations I plan on doing this in about 2 months
Can a watery slurry of Portland cement be used at first so it can go deep down the crack? Then after it dries up, apply some kind of concrete sealent on top?
Do you have a solution for leveling my garage floor ? A number of years back I used to much pressure in power washing garage floor and etched a good number of areas and left a lot of areas very very rough… how do I cure that?
Rule 1 - concrete will crack if it has insufficient tooled and expansion joints. The purpose of tooled joints is to control the cracks, hoping they follow the joints. However, since your crack extends through the adjoining asphalt, the sub surface preparation/compaction is the likely culprit. Rule 2 - Crack repair only lasts through one or two freeze/thaw cycle(s). Also, the crack often returns in parallel adjoining areas, leaving a bigger crack to contend with. Check out what the pros do for tennis court cracks. The cracks always return. The sub-surface prep work was deficient.
On another vid you made for cracks, you used a "sand" type (1/2). To blend in the color to the surrounding area, couldn't you put some of that sand on top? It appeared to be multi-colored.
Hey my friend, I enjoy your videos and gave me pointers on certain projects. I do have a question with exterior wall seal and cement slab. Can you recommend a product that seals the transition between the bottom of an exterior stucco wall with the adjoining cement slab? I appreciate your help. Thanks.
I definitely think the first is better. Matches your driveway better and looks like just a one time application vs a two app. With the other. But Its funny that your video came up today because I'm actually getting ready to do my driveway.
Thank you so much for the meaningful comment my friend! Sikaflex will be good on expansion joints to allow flex, but for 150’ long fix I would with the quickrete my friend 🙏🏽😊 I wish you the best on your project! Email me if you need help on anything 👍🏽😊
@@thevoiceofthelordpastorkei7165 i hope you stayed with the sikaflex as you are repairing a crack,which was caused by the concrete and ground movement, hard concrete or patch will just crack again or come loose, the flex will stick and shrink and expand as needed
I'm guessing when fully dried, it looked like what the edge looks like. My suggestion would be to wait a day, take an "After" video and include in the video before uploading.
I’m about to fix several cracks but I wonder why people don’t sprinkle on a little bit concrete on the still wet patch to match the texture of the rest of the driveway. It would make the patch virtually disappear. Of course you’d want to remove the largest pieces of stone from the concrete before lightly pressing it into the still wet patch material. I also will be repairing a few expansion joints using rubber tubes and covering them with a liquid patch material. Once I Apple the liquid patch I’ll sprinkle sifted cement on the still wet patch material.
1) For safety, they make chisels with a protective ring near the top so you don't hit your hand with your hammer. Also, after I used the ready-mix product, I read the fine print closely. The last line in English stated that it should not be used where there is vehicular traffic, which would be a driveway.
Good video but if you don't want the crack to return take care of the actual problem. In this case when you showed the crack you showed us the problem too. Its that tree at the other end of the crack. The tree roots don't stop growing unless you grind the stump. So in summary, the repair you made will more than likely show up again.
In petrochemical industry, we require face shields for angle grinders, also. Too many people have had the wheel fly apart and had pieces go into their face.
Patch will pop out within 12 months as water intrudes and slab continues to move. Use urethane glue (resin) to seal the crack through the thickness of the concrete slab, and then top dress the cured glue. Even that will not last as there is probably a root or underground utility under the slab continuing under the blacktop.
One time I removed the guard from my angle grinder (Don't remember why I did that).Then I cut my finger in no time. Lesson learned. Never do that again under all circumstances.
Great video but if someone's got the ability to use an angle grinder I would have thought they'd have the ability to mix up some sand/cement mix themselves to fill the gap in. It's like filling the cracks in a wall - scrape it out to make it bigger and fill with filler then sand. Except in this instance you don't sand it, you brush it before it dries :)
I have to wonder what you think about sidewalk joints that are extra large. I just blew the dirt and grass out with the pressure washer but they are now fairly substantially sized.
I recently redid the caulking between pool coping stones and concrete deck surround. Also resealed the space between the coping stone and waterline tiles. These areas flex in the northeast freeze/thaw cycles with any water penetration. If expansion joint (or even large crack) use close cell backer rod and Sikaflex Concrete Fix No-Sag Concrete Crack Filler Repair Polyurethane Sealant. I have used the self-leveling version thinking it being more runny, it would adhere to the side walls better. Switched to no sag for vertical application. Self leveling version comes in gray or tan. No sag also comes in white. Tape off the seam with masking tape. Before it skins over, sprinkle on sand or any grindings you have if you created any in prep. Remove tape right after sanding and touch up whatever has pulled away. Let set for a day and dust off extra sand. In my case, I only sanded the horizontal repair. The area between tiles and coping stones were left white matching the tile grout. Sorry, I can't figure how to attach a picture.
Can you use a commercial shrinkproof concrete mix? I found it at Menards and since the cracks in my driveway are older and wider. I thought this may be a good option as Ive had the shrinkage problem where I live fixing a repair in the past. I also wondered if anyone would think of using a can of flexseal in with the concrete to strengthen the adhesion to the existing concrete?
ITEMS I USED IN THIS VIDEO:
- BLACK+DECKER Angle Grinder Tool, 4-1/2” 6 Amp - amzn.to/458Bqmp
- 4-1/2” Diamond Cutting Blade - amzn.to/3Wc0HIm
- Masonry Chisel Set - amzn.to/3o3gRqZ
- Quikrete FastSet Repair Mortar Mix - amzn.to/3OndIgb
- Sikacryl Ready-Mix Concrete Patch - amzn.to/3Wb7hPi
- Sikaflex Self Leveling Sealant - amzn.to/437yWmC
- 6” Mason Trowel - amzn.to/3IgmoRx
- Masonry Brush - amzn.to/42MI7c9
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) :
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- Eat Muffs - amzn.to/3McuXyg
- Half-Face Respirator - amzn.to/42KYsOF
- Half-Face Particulate Cartridge For Respirators - amzn.to/3ImW1K2
I expect the crack will reappear because there is nothing of any strength holding together the two sides of the crack. Filling in like this only works if you first create a good bond between the two sides of the crack, typically with epoxy or with metal fasteners (I use 4mm diameter gr 304 stainless rod that won't rust and is cheap. Also, when you fill in the crack with mortar you need to first make the concrete quite damp so the mortar sticks to it and it helps to also apply a bonding agent (typically liquid) as well. Step one - open up the crack like in the video though you don't need smooth edges but in fact rough irregular edges are better because they aid bonding. Step two - brush or blow out crack to get rid of loose material. Step three - wet the concrete crack. Step four - while the concrete is still very damp but not wet, brush on a bonding agent. Step five - fill in the gap with mortar (cheaper to make your own with one part cement, three parts coarse sand, and two parts patching compound). When the mortar is still damp, brush like in the video and then sprinkle over it some sand of a shade that best matches the colour of the surrounding concrete (Reduces the white bleached look) or brush on a soupy mud mixture made from water and plain old dirt to make it look like old concrete. Optional Step 6 - to hide the repair completely, apply a concrete resurfacer to the entire concrete pad/path/ driveway or whatever, or paint it.
My builder did it like we see here in the video, i think it's pretty common because it's easy. Every single crack was back again within one season. These types of patches don't even last temporarily.
Sacrificing your driveway to let us know how both look/work. You are the man! Great video as always bro.
Yeah, this is an amazing demonstration.
Thank you so much Jay! 🙏🏽😊
Try a crack chaser for your angle grinder
I'm thinking that you could have saved the dust and debris from the angle grinding to put on top of your patch, which would allow a better color match and blending to the original surface
That was my thought too. I’m going to use concrete to sprinkle on top and then lightly press it into the still wet patch material. I’m going to sift the concrete to remove large rocks first.
Correct…it’s the same it’s wood when you drill a hole save the sawdust and then mix it with glue, fill the gap with the sawdust job done can’t see the hole
The best is to use a crack chaser wheel in your 4” grinder. Then backer rod in the widen crack then self leveling Sika Flex joint compound. I’m a retired contractor and did many cracks that way.
That would be for an expansion joint and eould look like caulking in the middle of the slab...this is a crack that should disappear
There's always someone that knows better!
A good tip is to crush up all the stuff you took out and sprinkle it on top of the mortar while it's drying to try and disguise the repair.
I like the convenience of the pre mix but the add water mortar looks better color wise
I agree Cathy 👍🏽😊. Premix will work best for light tone concrete only.
I used a chisel and made a1 to 2 inch GAP in my crack. I left the jagged edges and a lot was 45 degrees under. Then I used concrete bonding agent. Used paint brush and applied very liberally to all surface area inside the crack. Then I dry poured mortar into the crack. Tapped a hammer on both sides of the crack. I used a trowel to level, I used the mist setting on house and done. Applied water every hour for 4 hours. Came out perfect.
Good video you did a good job I just have one suggestion that I do for blending in with old concrete whether it be cement to fill in a crack or that light gray caulk I'll usually let it dry to 50% dry and then smear black dirt on top of it and leave it to dry rest of the way and it pretty much Blends in with the rest of the cement. It was a tip I got from an old Mason works pretty well
I cut vertical sides along the crack. I can only go 1" deep with my grinder. I cut strips of 1" felt paper and put them in the crack. I mixed 1 part Portland with 2 parts sand to make mortar. i used the trowel to work mortar in on both sides of the felt paper. Fixing cracks in concrete is always temporary. The felt paper will allow for some expansion, which is why the crack formed in the first place. When it cracks again, it will likely follow the paper, rather than make a jagged mess.
I’ve tried many concrete fixes over the years. The best for cracks, for me, is Sashco products, Gray Slab which comes in a convenient tube for a caulking gun. IT STICKS, STRETCHES & STAYS.
Yes.. the dudes concrete cracked because concrete doesn't "stretch".. so the patch must Stretch, or it wil crack too. Thanks for the product tip... I have some repairs to do!!
I've heard of that product, finally found it at Lowes.
@@KrustyKlown I like self-leveling sealant. It's a bit pricey thought. Pair it off with caulk backer rods to save material
I gotta say, the 45 degree angles were backwards...if you have the bottom of your repair area wider than the top, you don't get pop-outs from the freeze thaw cycle. If you're in an area that never freezes, it's not that big a deal, but in northern climates, you need to "keyway" your repair.
How do you keyway a repair as I live in northeast now
@@nomoreliberties gotta make the hole wider at the bottom than at the top, that way the freeze-thaw cycle doesn't push the repair out
@@mikereid1195gotcha thanks
I like the Quikrete. I have watched some videos by an old school mason from Pennsylvania, Mike Haddock. He puts a mud slurry over his concrete patches to give it that used look.
Thanks Kathleen for the input! I would love to see how that mud slurry technique would look like 🙏🏽😊
He also dampens the concrete before he fills it to make it stick better.
Every crack like that becomes an expansion joint that moves with thermal variations. So it is more convenient fixing it with a self levelling flexible compound, uness you cross stitch the two sides with pre-drilled dowels, and then you can use a rigid expansive mix.
Another great video.....I like the Quickrete quick repair mortar as it blends better and single application. Keep rockin!
I like the one in the caulk gun tubes, did it 5 years ago and still holding, thanks for the video
Thank you for the input! 🙏🏽😊
Fill the cracks with GE 100% advanced black silicone! Works great!
I always use the repair morter because it's has a very high psi count and it doesn't shrink and color blends right in
This works and Great video. It I hate that I can always notice my repairs with this stuff. But it is what it is
Thank you Mike! Yes unfortunately the new will stick out from the old, but over time it will eventually blend in 👍🏽😊
Kintsugi...came to mind when the same thing happened to the concrete path...but with leveled river stones and pea gravel...kinda inspired by those river tables....maybe opening up those cracks to fill in with fun and treasure.
Thanks for the tutorial. It would be great to see the way it looks after full cure and a little wear on it. Personally if the crack repair remains quite visible then i would have gone ahead replaced a little larger panel for aesthetics. That is not a criticism just personal preference. Great video.
Add on surface the mortar powder pushed into the pre made to better match surface color.
Your videos are great quality and informative. Thank you!
I am about to do this, I am going to pour into a gallon bag and cut the tip out like applying icing, see if that works :)
Sprinkle some silica sand on the repair material while its still kinda wet, once its dry blow off the extra. Blends really nice.
Quickcrete repair mortar. Great job!
Lots of good comments. As far as adding the ground up powder for a color match. I would say dampen it first. Drawing out too much moisture too quick as powder can do may cause cracking. Letting it cure in direct sunlight, especially on a hot day might not be such a good idea either. Rapid drying may cause cracks. Laying something over it to block the sun might be a good idea.
Appreciate your video. Have a vertical crack right down the middle. Been thinking of fixing it for years. 🤢
Good idea!
I had a question to ask; wouldn't it be better to have the 45 degree angle a reverse 45 degree angle? That way it would be less likely to pop up; the 45 degree angle would hold the mortar in place.
I appreciate your input and thanks for the video and idea!
Blessings to you and your family,
Kevin Barron
Nice vid! I have added a little aggravate and sand to the top to match like an “art project”.
I am not sure if that will ruin the integrity of the mortar?
I use Dow Seal, but it’s expensive like $20 per sausage.
Loved the tips on expansion joint vs. crack. That was super helpful bc I treated them the same.
Your way creates a better line. I used a rotor hammer chisel that works well.
Thank you Richard for your input and sharing your experience! 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
I like the product Crack Weld , very good product. He( Ray's Concrete ) recommended it with 40 yrs experience. It blends in works well !
Where can you purchase crack weld?
Well, not sure if Lowe's or Home Depot has it , have not checked there. But I ordered mine from Amazon.@@terrymaine4121
I'm just a lay person but my thinking is the crack is due to ground shifting. Where I live the soil is heavy clay. If I am correct the joint should have flex in it and because of that I would have used a silicone based filler. I like the idea of opening up the crack with angle grinder. Look forward to other comments
Thank you for the input my friend! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Exactly what I was thinking. By filling it with the inflexible mortar, I would think that the crack will just reappear. Perhaps an expansion joint would have prevented the crack from forming in the first place. But in this case, the crack also goes across the asphalt, so it is not due to simple expected expansion but from other forces like shifting ground or tree roots. I would have gone with the flexible concrete caulking. I would like to see a follow up video showing how the mortar patch holds up, or a video showing examples of how well both types of patches last.
How old was the crack? Years, months? The ground might have shifted and then settled. If it stopped settling, I think the mortar would work well. It would be nice to see a one-year update on this repair.
My driveway cracks were filled with the flexible guys and it shrunk and looks awful. Lasted about a year or less! I now am going to try exactly what this video suggests.
You are correct
Heyyyy…. 😢 I wanted to see the final final look once fully dry in case it looks different
Thanks for the video, I have a huge crack on my driveway going horizontally, I wish you were near by to give me your opinion. I might try your method to close it.
For those I would use a flexible sealant like Silka self leveling or concrete fix.
Use a power washer or chemical (bleach) to clean up accumulated algae on the concrete (that's why it looks dark). When you patch, the color will match better. Also, use a rough wet sponge to blend the sides into the existing concrete.
I’ve been looking for a video on best way to fix cracks on driveways. Your 2 days late and already used the Ready mix one and I think the mortar looks better. 😔
I personally would use this for damaged concrete etc.. to fill cracks like this I would still use a flexible product like the " sica crack flex sealant " because that's most likely going to crack again with more movement unless you correct the root of the problem, the foundation underneath. Nothing against what is going on here, just me personally and how I personally feel about the situation. Great Video!
Using sika will look like you git caulking in an expansion joint...horrible...this is a crack that you want to make disappear
I would lean towards using the flexible stuff. That crack is there due to settling and if (big if) the settling continues over time it will crack again.
Thanks for sharing 👍
I’m in Italy and about to do a slightly wider gap early AM. Using instant cement at 92 degrees forecast in the afternoon. I’m ok with that drying temp?
Thanks a lot your video. It”s very useful for me because there are a lot of cracks on my drive way, the same as you have exposed aggregate concrete. I see some people using pea gravel toon top surface so it can match to the rest.
Is there another finishing step? This looks pretty labor intensive for a so-so result aesthetically.
Is there a way for it to blend in seamlessly? So there isn’t a noticeable line across?
I have cracking on my drive way will this method work good for this? Or should I try another method. Please provide recommendations I plan on doing this in about 2 months
I plan on staining after crack repair... will patch absorb stain?
I'd use the Quikrete mortar repair, as it blends in better with the existing concrete.
Can a watery slurry of Portland cement be used at first so it can go deep down the crack? Then after it dries up, apply some kind of concrete sealent on top?
I really liked the match up with the Quick-Crete. Does the Quick-Crete repair mortar come in a tube? Thank you.
The crack was more natural. But the big fat white stripe you just put in/ PRICELESS!!!!!!
That or rubber Sika 👍🏽
Okay, I will try it.
Do a video on repairing the asphalt crack please.
Hi Rick! I will tackle that next my friend! 🙏🏽👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Excellent. I have a couple big cracks in my asphalt.
Do you have a solution for leveling my garage floor ? A number of years back I used to much pressure in power washing garage floor and etched a good number of areas and left a lot of areas very very rough… how do I cure that?
Rule 1 - concrete will crack if it has insufficient tooled and expansion joints. The purpose of tooled joints is to control the cracks, hoping they follow the joints.
However, since your crack extends through the adjoining asphalt, the sub surface preparation/compaction is the likely culprit.
Rule 2 - Crack repair only lasts through one or two freeze/thaw cycle(s). Also, the crack often returns in parallel adjoining areas, leaving a bigger crack to contend with.
Check out what the pros do for tennis court cracks. The cracks always return. The sub-surface prep work was deficient.
Stick with the mortar mix👍😎
On another vid you made for cracks, you used a "sand" type (1/2). To blend in the color to the surrounding area, couldn't you put some of that sand on top? It appeared to be multi-colored.
Hey my friend,
I enjoy your videos and gave me pointers on certain projects. I do have a question with exterior wall seal and cement slab. Can you recommend a product that seals the transition between the bottom of an exterior stucco wall with the adjoining cement slab? I appreciate your help. Thanks.
Thank you so much! Please send me a picture on my email 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Will do. Thank you.
I definitely think the first is better. Matches your driveway better and looks like just a one time application vs a two app. With the other. But Its funny that your video came up today because I'm actually getting ready to do my driveway.
Thank you so much for the meaningful comment my friend! Sikaflex will be good on expansion joints to allow flex, but for 150’ long fix I would with the quickrete my friend 🙏🏽😊 I wish you the best on your project! Email me if you need help on anything 👍🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Thanks so much for not only replying but for such a speedy reply.
I will and thanks AGAIN so much.
I’d like to see the finished dry patch to see the final result. Won’t it just crack again?
@@thevoiceofthelordpastorkei7165 i hope you stayed with the sikaflex as you are repairing a crack,which was caused by the concrete and ground movement, hard concrete or patch will just crack again or come loose, the flex will stick and shrink and expand as needed
Thank your helper. Safety lesson & great assistant-It’s how I learned from my Dad too.
Very good video 2👍
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for this interesting topic and informative video!
How long is it took to did the angle grinding?
I like the idea that you give me a choice ☺
I'm guessing when fully dried, it looked like what the edge looks like.
My suggestion would be to wait a day, take an "After" video and include in the video before uploading.
The cement you recommend would not hold up in cold weather (east cost ) due to snow and cold weather
Good information! Enjoy you how-to-videos!
Thank you Jean! Means a lot! 🙏🏽😊
Do you have a video for asphalt cracks?
I’m about to fix several cracks but I wonder why people don’t sprinkle on a little bit concrete on the still wet patch to match the texture of the rest of the driveway. It would make the patch virtually disappear. Of course you’d want to remove the largest pieces of stone from the concrete before lightly pressing it into the still wet patch material.
I also will be repairing a few expansion joints using rubber tubes and covering them with a liquid patch material. Once I Apple the liquid patch I’ll sprinkle sifted cement on the still wet patch material.
I think I would have sprayed a binder in the crack before putting in the concrete mix.Cement doesn't stick well to dry cement.
Just open the garage door! Will make the job so much easier
1) For safety, they make chisels with a protective ring near the top so you don't hit your hand with your hammer. Also, after I used the ready-mix product, I read the fine print closely. The last line in English stated that it should not be used where there is vehicular traffic, which would be a driveway.
thanx4post
You are most welcome! 🙏🏽😊
Thanks. 👍🏻
Thank you Ron! Please Send me an email when you get the chance! 👍🏽😊
How long did it last?
Good video but if you don't want the crack to return take care of the actual problem. In this case when you showed the crack you showed us the problem too. Its that tree at the other end of the crack. The tree roots don't stop growing unless you grind the stump. So in summary, the repair you made will more than likely show up again.
Use Sika that expands contracts !!!!
Don't you have to undercut the edge so that the patch material doesn't just pop out?
I use EZSand polymeric sand
In petrochemical industry, we require face shields for angle grinders, also. Too many people have had the wheel fly apart and had pieces go into their face.
What do they look like dried, please?
How does it look after a year?
Play stay tuned! I’ll do a half year later video! 👍🏽😊
Patch will pop out within 12 months as water intrudes and slab continues to move. Use urethane glue (resin) to seal the crack through the thickness of the concrete slab, and then top dress the cured glue. Even that will not last as there is probably a root or underground utility under the slab continuing under the blacktop.
One time I removed the guard from my angle grinder (Don't remember why I did that).Then I cut my finger in no time. Lesson learned. Never do that again under all circumstances.
I’m glad you’re ok, but yes do not remove. They are there for a reason 👍🏽🙏🏽😊
It Cracked for a reason.. that patch will crack too, unless the patch material is compliant, mortar is not.
Great video but if someone's got the ability to use an angle grinder I would have thought they'd have the ability to mix up some sand/cement mix themselves to fill the gap in. It's like filling the cracks in a wall - scrape it out to make it bigger and fill with filler then sand. Except in this instance you don't sand it, you brush it before it dries :)
I have to wonder what you think about sidewalk joints that are extra large. I just blew the dirt and grass out with the pressure washer but they are now fairly substantially sized.
Hi! Are they expansion joints or cracks? Could you send me a picture on my email? Fixthishouse1@yahoo.com
@@FixThisHouse Just expansion joints. -I would email, but I'm now away from that property, thanks though!
Proper prep and backing rod.
I recently redid the caulking between pool coping stones and concrete deck surround. Also resealed the space between the coping stone and waterline tiles. These areas flex in the northeast freeze/thaw cycles with any water penetration.
If expansion joint (or even large crack) use close cell backer rod and Sikaflex Concrete Fix No-Sag Concrete Crack Filler Repair Polyurethane Sealant. I have used the self-leveling version thinking it being more runny, it would adhere to the side walls better. Switched to no sag for vertical application. Self leveling version comes in gray or tan. No sag also comes in white.
Tape off the seam with masking tape. Before it skins over, sprinkle on sand or any grindings you have if you created any in prep. Remove tape right after sanding and touch up whatever has pulled away. Let set for a day and dust off extra sand. In my case, I only sanded the horizontal repair. The area between tiles and coping stones were left white matching the tile grout.
Sorry, I can't figure how to attach a picture.
The cost 3.19 , 9 min.13 sec.to finish 😊.
I would have done different 😊
For the life of me, I cant figure out why you didn't open the garage door and grind away like you did the rest of the grind?
Should have just put sand on top so it looks more like the weathered concrete
You should do a video on how to stop toilet tank sweating on the outside if you know.
Nice work, but definitely not how a professional does it
What he’s is using is for patch/repair, not for cracks that will continue to move. Need to use a concrete flexible caulk.
Quikcrete
the job is good but the visual needs a little more work.
Pull the grinder down toward your body dont push the grinder up
Thank you for the safety tip 🙏🏽😊
Also have some water on hand to cool that blade, it'll will help the longevity of the blade and it makes it easier on you
What do you mean? I’m about to fix driveway cracks and I’m unsure what you mean about using the angle grinder. Thanks.
From Crack to the GRand Canyon ,
Missing most valuable info. Follow-up months later.
So it'll match a little better??? Why didn't you show that? It looks terrible.
Can you use a commercial shrinkproof concrete mix? I found it at Menards and since the cracks in my driveway are older and wider. I thought this may be a good option as Ive had the shrinkage problem where I live fixing a repair in the past. I also wondered if anyone would think of using a can of flexseal in with the concrete to strengthen the adhesion to the existing concrete?
It will crack again and again 😂😂