@memberson Good question. It's true that most carburetor rebuilds should include a cleaning as well, either with carburetor cleaner or--like you suggested--with an ultrasonic cleaner. There are two reasons why we didn't include a carburetor cleaning in this video. 1. We already have two carburetor cleaner videos posted explaining the procedure. 2. We want to keep the focus of this video on just rebuilding the carburetor. Because of your comment, we may annotate this video to link to the others.
Thank you. Excelent procedure. I just cleaned a lawn mower carb. for the fist time from another video. Never attempted this work in the past and I am 53. Now that I have seen the steps I feel confident to rebuild the carb. on my Dad's chainsaw.
Just come in after watching your video and rebuilding my Walbro carb. Brilliant, easy to follow instructions. Strimmer now starts and runs as good as new. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I watched your video and ordered carb. parts for my weedeater featherlite. Your lady was very helpful. Parts worked like a charm. Thanks so much.........:) Dave in Kansas
Hi Mark, Thanks for the video! I am about to go try out a rebuild(something I never thought I would have tried due to horror stories I've heard about the process). Your video was clear, concise and professional. I am impressed. Thanks again, I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks, Mark. With the kits not having printed instructions, this video was very helpful, organized and brief- perfect. Wo ever liked the printed instructions anyway? With all the junk on u-tube, this is certainly one of the jewels- Thanks!
Great video. I've disassembled that exact carb and cleaned it with a Carburetor soaking cleaner on several different 2 strokes. Sometimes it fixed the problem but from now on I will buy a Carb Kit and do it right the first time. I've started using only Non-ethanol gas in all my small engines, it really cuts down on gas line disintegration. Two strokes are very simple engines but if you let them sit without draining the ethanol gas for more than a month you will get dissolved plastic!!
Thanks Mark. That part that goes in the hole under the needle/spring at 5.12 was my lesson. Didn't spot that on my McCulloch Powermac 6 when I pulled the carby apart in the first two occasions. On the third dismantle, I pulled it out and cleaned the channel. Put it back together, and fired up after a few pulls. Adam. Australia.
Very informative. Nice simple video. Confirmed that the film I found on top of the screen was not an important part but indeed just junk that was clogging operation and needed to be removed. Thanks.
So far I haven't found carb that wouldn't run like new with just a good cleaning with the Welch plug left in place. Removing the plug would complicate the repair beyond what most of our viewers would be comfortable doing. A Welch plug removal video is a good idea and I will definitely add it to our list. Thanks for watching! -Mark
Thanks you so much for all your simple to follow repair vids, saved me a fortune and also given me the satisfaction of doing the repairs myself. Top man. 👍
Best video like this I have ever seen! I just received my kit and should have no problems rebuilding my Ryobi Carb that uses a Similar Diaphragm, rather than a Float. Thank You!
OMG! I watched this video and could not believe it could be that easy. My Echo SRM 2400 circa 1993 is running like new after years of sub-standard performance.
Thanks! I had it right but, just wanted to confirm before I buttoned it all up. Huge help. Really hate finding out I did something wrong when going to start the machine.
Thanks..... Very helpful video. I followed your advice exactly and had no trouble whatsoever completing the rebuild. I found it helped to use a bench-mounted, lighted magnifying glass to install the needle valve/spring assembly. I also installed new fuel lines and a carburetor gasket.... The old IDE weedeater started on the third pull. :)
I'm a big fan of your videos and have used several to rebuild various tools/equipment. I'm surprised you didn't suggest blowing any air through the fuel line pick up/purge lines or using any carb cleaner on it. Any reason not to?
nicely done. even I as a mechanically challenged individual should be able to do it. Thanks for doing this. the job at hand is to rebuild my chain saw carbuerator. I got the kit from a local shop after taking the carbuerator in to them to verify the P/Ns.
Top video; thanks very much. I've just rebuilt the Walbro carb from my Mitsubishi grass trimmer using your instructions-VOILA! Goes like a charm. Thanks again.
That sounds like the fuel lines to the carb might have been crossed. Take a look at at our video about how to replace fuel lines. It will help to confirm the correct line placement. Thanks, -Mark
When do you know that you need to replace the Welch plug? Do you just puncture the plug and pull it out in order to replace it? Also do you seal the plug with anything once it is in place?
Thanks for the good video... I have a Stihl weed eater model FS 55 about 3 years old. I can crank burn one tank of gas then when I try to crank. It will fire up about one time shut down and won' start. I think it needs carburetor rebuild kit. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Art
That's interesting. I'm 15 an I know carbs normally with the bowl and floats. Last time I did a carb like this it was on a 1978 little buster go cart. Same process and everything. Thanks a lot!
I rebuilt mine using your video as a guide as I did it. My problem still exists the thing wont run. I have a troy bilt string trimmer and it just decided not to start this season.
Hey Mark, I have an Echo PE 200 edger. I replaced the throttle body that somehow was broken on the inside of the carb. Once I was done, the unit would start and run but not while in idle. It only runs if the trigger is fully depressed. I replaced the spark plug, gas lines and grommet, air filter, gas filter, bulb, rebuilt the carb and changed the intake gasket. I use new fuel and oil mix. I used carb cleaner and air. Made sure the spark arrestor was clean and my edger still stalls when I release the trigger. I'm out of ideas??? Help!!
Nice video Mark. Only one comment or question. You didn't show the correct metering lever height. I believe on this Walbro, it should be even with the carburetor machined surface. Eric
I have a husqvarna trimmer 128R (Zama carburetor C1Q-W40A), which is suitable tool to remove the set screws of the mixture? Thanks in advance. Living in Brazil. Nelson Silva.
I have a sears self propelled mower engine model number 143..986700 and I took off the bowl of the carburetor and used a bread tie wire to put in the holes and cleaned real good then replaced everything. The mower now acts like it isn't getting any gas at all. Before it would start and would stay running unless constantly priming huum what can I do now and a few questions if you don't mind. Why on earth does just a new kit make things all better. I don't know what the gasket type thing that goes on with the gasket actually does and I also have a lettile tube that sticks down from the carb and goes into the botton bowl not sure what that does either and I may in fact have a spring missing but wasn't sure ass I didn't see one when taking apart. I couldn't find a video for this particular carburetor. Thanks for any help.
+Bruce Hampton The reason a new kit helps is usually because most carburetor have a rubber piece in them that acts like a fuel pump. Over time the rubber becomes less pliable causing the motor to starve for fuel. You can usually tell the rubber is getting old by having to keep priming the mower to keep it running. These carbs are commonly made by 1 of 2 manufacturers. If you have the carburetor off it should either be a Zama or Walbro and kits for most of these are readily available and pretty well priced. The whole craftsman carb is available for around $96.00. If you can find any numbers on your carb, write back and I'll see what I can find to get you going again.
My friend handed me a craftsman blower, 32cc. I discovered the fuel line broken. I was able to make it run. But, it will not idle. Do you think this 12 year old blower, might need new carb gaskets?
Hi Mark. I Have a Poulan 2150 LX (2.2 CID) chainsaw that runs only with the choke fully actuated. If you hit the throttle it dies or push in the choke, it dies. Do you think it's the fuel pump diaphram going out, so therefore a tear down and rebuild of the carburetor is needed?
packrat76 If it only runs with full choke then its not getting enough fuel. Rebuild it and get a 1 gallon paint can of carb cleaner with parts basket. This is what I am talking about. www.amazon.com/Gunk-CC3K-Carburetor-Cleaner-Basket/dp/B000ABGA4E Let it soak for 24 hours after disassembly. After you let it soak use a compressed air can or air compressor to completely blow out ALL of the little holes. It doesnt take much to clog these little guys. There a quite a few things not included in the video. There are usually 2 metering jets. Some require a special tools. You can usually leave them alone and be fine. On occasion it is where the clog is, If it is subject make note of turns to bottom it out. Then remove them. The one on the left is low side and the one on the right is high side. Needle valve is always longer on the low side then the high side 2 cycle engine oil will gum up after sitting unused for an extended period of time. Only remove needle valves if necessary. If they are remove just set back to original position. If you dont remember. Screw them all the way in and then 1.5 turns out and turn idle screw all the way up. The adjust low side first for a smooth running and turn down for smooth idle. then adjust high side to top speed and back it in .5 turns. You should be good to go. Hope this helped.
byrysh That helps a lot, thanks! 2 questions. You are saying I need to remove the jets themselves? So is it necessary to remove the zinc plugs to get to the jets?
packrat76 Dont have to..Better if you dont move them at all, it can be a pain sometimes getting it reset right. just if you need too, make a note of the screws howe many turns to go all the way in and reset it after you rebuild it. As far as the zinc plugs, Ive only seen one that needed replaced in all the yearsI'ive done this. Its for machining and they dont need to be removed just clean it out with compressed air in all the little holes. what I do is find where it goes in and comes out and put a little carb cleaner and see if it blows out. if so its not clogged. GL :) LMK if ya got any more questions.
Please explain if it is possible to put your needle lift bracket on upside down. I fear i did this. Now my primer bulb collapses on itself. I thought the lil lipped ring on the needle lift bracket or Fulcrum is what one end of the spring goes up against. Now THERE'S NO PISTON MOVEMENT TO THE NEEDLE. ANY HELP? And could you tell me what model carburetor goes to a weed eater power pro edger. Thxs a ton. Robbie
It is possible to get the lift bracket upside down. That could cause the primer bulb to collapse. I would open that carburetor again to see if that is the problem. I'm not really sure anything else you cause the problem. Send me the model number to your Weed Eater Pro Edger and I'll be happy to get you the price and availability for the Carburetor.
Hi , I bought a brand new maverick for Christmas, it has done 4 tanks, but last two tanks it was cutting out, and dying down, noticed that tankis sucking itself in, took cap off tank, and it hissed, but now it will not start at all, engine sparks, but will not fire, high and low spd needle has been adjusted, should I try readjusting them from factory settings again, any idea.
I would set the carb back to the original settings. The problem you've described, even though its a new tool, sounds like a plug in the carburetor. Try putting a drop of fuel in the carburetor throat to see if it is a fuel issue. Also, most of the caps for these are vented to help control a vacuum issue in the tank. Thirdly, if the carb is plugged after such a short time, check inside the tank to see of the fuel filter has become unattached.
I would try to clean it again and replace the diaphragm. The ports in these are so tiny it takes next to nothing to plug them and they almost impossible to open once they are plugged.
Ray Miller oh man... get a very skinny piece of wire. and wiggle it in all the little holes. Buy a can of parts cleaner with a basket and let it soak for 24 hours. And then blow it out with comprssed air. If it only runs on the primer reed valves arent working and letting fule be pulled in. rebuild with he right kit.
I remove the welsh plug to clean the tiny jets inside. Besides, to remove it you srill just through it's surface, use a pick and pluck it out. To install the new welsh plug, set it in place, use a small round tube one half the diameter of the plug and give it a couple light wacks to stretch the plug out into place, easy.
Mark --- before you removed the base plate, the hole in that plate was oriented at the top of the carb. When you reinstalled the plate, the hole was positioned to the side of the carb. Does this make any difference?
Hi Buck, and thank you for your question. As near as I can tell, the base plate is simply a cover for the carburetor and therefore it probably wouldn't matter all that much. However, I would advise re-assembling the carburetor exactly the way you took it off. It must have been a simple oversight in this video. Thanks again for the question, and good luck with the repair!
I have wt 990 carb. I recently bought new and only after a few tanks it stopped delivering gas. The punter bulb was full and it ran perfectly the prior day. What could be the cause of this ? The fuel filter was recently replace about the same time the carb was,Also I'm running this carb in a very dusty environment, How necessary is it to place a filter over the small inlet hole on he rear of the carb to prevent dirt from entering it? From my understanding the carb partially breathes thru that tiny square hole just below the primer build ? Thanks
It's unusual for a new carburetor to give problems so quickly. The Ports on these carburetors are so small, the smallest bit of debris can plug them. Sometimes the diaphragm in the bottom of the carb gets damaged. The diaphragm acts as the fuel pump so if it is damaged or not working, the tool will not run either. Ethanol is really hard on these smaller carburetors.
My TORO single stage snow blower(38445) carb. appears to be a composite material. In another of your super videos you show the use of a 'Lyman Sonic Cleaner' to really get the job done. My question is does the composite carb. hold up in the Lyman without damage, does it require a specific milder cleaner, should cleaner not be used at all. I know this question is a little outside the realm of this re-building video, but, I would need to cover the carb. body question in my attempts on the rebuild. Your carb body appears to be all metal. ??????
I find a lot of warpedparts, like the Thicke aluminum over with the single screw. This seems to be the situation on mostly the Chinese versions that some manufacturers use now. What I've been doing is surfacing them one a piece of 180# wet/dry paper, masking taped to the surface of a piece of glass. These warped parts are showing in Craftsman/Poulon and a few Stihls. Husky has not had any that I've found to be Chinese.
HELP. I bought a new kit, but still got trouble that its not priming with the bilb, I see that the valve in the prima goes straingt to bottom of carb? all cleaned, Any help
Allan Wells @1:18 you can clearly see the hole pointing up towards the adjustment screws, then again with a closer view @ 1:26.During the assembly starting @ 5:50 you can see the hole is rotated 90 degrees to the right. I'm not sure which is correct but I'm going to place the hole up like at the beginning of the video
I have a viza v2 gas scooter, it takes a while to start up and when it does it just dies down when i press the throttle.. any thoughts? Is it just the carb?
I have a Tecumseh tc300 that is very hard to start even after cleaning the carb. You can get it started with starter fluid but once you get it started it runs great. One reason might be something wrong with the primer bulb because you push it and it doesn't tighten up with gas like it should. Any ideas?
Check your diaphragm. You can get a thumb gauge put a hose from the gauge to the fuel port going to the primer bulb. Prime the bulb (you should see the psi needle go up on the thumb gauge. If the needle hold steady its not the primer bulb. You can also check the seals by take the thumb gauge put the hose to the other fuel port. Pump up the psi and drop the entire carburetor in a jar of water (it won't hurt it) Now look for and bubbles. If you see bubbles there's your problem a seal leak.
What's the best way to clean the carb. I have changed all parts but it still won't run, I think it is a jet or port that is blocked. The one in the throat I can't get to or remove.
+Randall Montes Your right. Some of the ports on these are very small and can easily plug. I've had the best luck with carb cleaner and atube. If it still won't come free I use an Ultrasonic cleaner.
He makes putting the needle valve back in look way easy. That was a pain. A tip, if your carb has a primer bulb on the top, rebuild the bottom first so it sits flat and you can get the needle valve in easier! No, really, do the bottom first, you'll thank me later!
Now see I did all that and now putting my carburetor back together, first fired up really well when I give it to gas it chokes out. Any idea what that might be?
Your problem might be a problem still with in the carburetor but I would check the exhaust port to see if there is a carbon build up. A clogged exhaust port will restrict the flow of the exhaust causing the engine to die as you try to accelerate. You should also double check the fuel line to make sure you don't have any kinks restricting the fuel flow.
I guess I'll have to start all over I went through that and still doesn't work right mine is different both tubes you hock the hoses to are on the same side I have wt520.
Mark < Do you have any video's for sale on reassembling a chainsaw ( crankcase to starter assembly) .I have a Husqvarna 445 . engine I need to reassemble and would like some assistance . Thank You // Sonia A
+John Allen All of our videos are on line and free to help with your repairs. We don't have any going as deep into the engine as that. There may be some online. They are usually free to view.
@memberson Good question. It's true that most carburetor rebuilds should include a cleaning as well, either with carburetor cleaner or--like you suggested--with an ultrasonic cleaner. There are two reasons why we didn't include a carburetor cleaning in this video. 1. We already have two carburetor cleaner videos posted explaining the procedure. 2. We want to keep the focus of this video on just rebuilding the carburetor. Because of your comment, we may annotate this video to link to the others.
Thank you. Excelent procedure. I just cleaned a lawn mower carb. for the fist time from another video. Never attempted this work in the past and I am 53. Now that I have seen the steps I feel confident to rebuild the carb. on my Dad's chainsaw.
Just come in after watching your video and rebuilding my Walbro carb. Brilliant, easy to follow instructions. Strimmer now starts and runs as good as new. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I watched your video and ordered carb. parts for my weedeater featherlite. Your lady was very helpful. Parts worked like a charm. Thanks so much.........:) Dave in Kansas
Finally a video I can learn from because the closed captioning was clear! I'm deaf. Many thank yous!
Hi Mark, Thanks for the video! I am about to go try out a rebuild(something I never thought I would have tried due to horror stories I've heard about the process). Your video was clear, concise and professional. I am impressed.
Thanks again, I will let you know how it goes.
I like Marks videos and eReplacementParts; many hours watching the videos.This one helped me rebuild my 1994 featherlite carb...yesterday!
Thanks, Mark. With the kits not having printed instructions, this video was very helpful, organized and brief- perfect. Wo ever liked the printed instructions anyway?
With all the junk on u-tube, this is certainly one of the jewels- Thanks!
Great video. I've disassembled that exact carb and cleaned it with a Carburetor soaking cleaner on several different 2 strokes. Sometimes it fixed the problem but from now on I will buy a Carb Kit and do it right the first time.
I've started using only Non-ethanol gas in all my small engines, it really cuts down on gas line disintegration. Two strokes are very simple engines but if you let them sit without draining the ethanol gas for more than a month you will get dissolved plastic!!
Thanks for posting, I liked the way the parts were laid out. A simpler rebuild, left out discussion for cleaning and also adjusting the needle lever.
you just won a new customer! Thanks for the well-explained videos! You Rock!
Thanks Mark. That part that goes in the hole under the needle/spring at 5.12 was my lesson. Didn't spot that on my McCulloch Powermac 6 when I pulled the carby apart in the first two occasions. On the third dismantle, I pulled it out and cleaned the channel. Put it back together, and fired up after a few pulls. Adam. Australia.
+jaker5555 Yes mark left out several key points like cleaning, and adjustment in an outside of carb
Very informative. Nice simple video. Confirmed that the film I found on top of the screen was not an important part but indeed just junk that was clogging operation and needed to be removed. Thanks.
So far I haven't found carb that wouldn't run like new with just a good cleaning with the Welch plug left in place. Removing the plug would complicate the repair beyond what most of our viewers would be comfortable doing. A Welch plug removal video is a good idea and I will definitely add it to our list.
Thanks for watching!
-Mark
Thanks you so much for all your simple to follow repair vids, saved me a fortune and also given me the satisfaction of doing the repairs myself. Top man. 👍
Best video like this I have ever seen! I just received my kit and should have no problems rebuilding my Ryobi Carb that uses a Similar Diaphragm, rather than a Float. Thank You!
Mark,,Your video is very helpful.You are so knowledgeable and make it so simple..
Thanks again for this video.
OMG! I watched this video and could not believe it could be that easy. My Echo SRM 2400 circa 1993 is running like new after years of sub-standard performance.
Thanks! I had it right but, just wanted to confirm before I buttoned it all up. Huge help. Really hate finding out I did something wrong when going to start the machine.
Great video, I took it apart and forgot how it went back together, it shows me how to do that. Thanks Mark
Thanks for the video. I didn't realize there was a spring for the needle pivot until I watched it. Fortunately, I found it.
Thanks..... Very helpful video. I followed your advice exactly and had no trouble whatsoever completing the rebuild. I found it helped to use a bench-mounted, lighted magnifying glass to install the needle valve/spring assembly. I also installed new fuel lines and a carburetor gasket.... The old IDE weedeater started on the third pull. :)
You are a good teacher .
We can follow you easily .
Thanks .
I'm a big fan of your videos and have used several to rebuild various tools/equipment. I'm surprised you didn't suggest blowing any air through the fuel line pick up/purge lines or using any carb cleaner on it. Any reason not to?
nicely done. even I as a mechanically challenged individual should be able to do it. Thanks for doing this.
the job at hand is to rebuild my chain saw carbuerator. I got the kit from a local shop after taking the carbuerator in to them to verify the P/Ns.
Thanks I like how you kept things organized , you make it look easy. I'll have to give it a try now.
Great video i Like the way you keep everything organized
thanks mark you really make things look easy Bill
Top video; thanks very much. I've just rebuilt the Walbro carb from my Mitsubishi grass trimmer using your instructions-VOILA! Goes like a charm. Thanks again.
good video and easy to follow the directions
That sounds like the fuel lines to the carb might have been crossed. Take a look at at our video about how to replace fuel lines. It will help to confirm the correct line placement.
Thanks,
-Mark
great vid, it's given me the confidence to rebuild the carb on my mantis. Not sure if it will fix it...bit it will be fun trying!
hey thanks mark , been a while since i done one , guess zama are the same as walbro to rebuild
Thanks Mark, very informative and well carried out
yall got some nice vids and lots of parts on the web site, now i know where to go , thanks for posting
Thank you very much, this is EXACTLY the information I needed to get my old Stihl trimmer running again!
When do you know that you need to replace the Welch plug? Do you just puncture the plug and pull it out in order to replace it? Also do you seal the plug with anything once it is in place?
Thanks for the good video... I have a Stihl weed eater model FS 55 about 3 years old. I can crank burn one tank of gas then when I try to crank. It will fire up about one time shut down and won' start. I think it needs carburetor rebuild kit. What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
Art
good video i just had a issue with fuel lines on chainsaw and thanks to these
videos it runs like new
Thanks for this excellent, clearly organized video. Very helpful!
That's interesting. I'm 15 an I know carbs normally with the bowl and floats. Last time I did a carb like this it was on a 1978 little buster go cart. Same process and everything. Thanks a lot!
mark is this video the same on my stihl c1q-s97 carb to rebuild or do you have that video for stihl carbs thx
Thanks for the demo. I am rebuilding a carb like the one in the video.
Good information saved heaps of time 😎
When the rubber gaskets inside carberator get hard does it flood the and leak gas out the carberator
Very informative video. I'm feeling braver about attempting the repair myself.
I rebuilt mine using your video as a guide as I did it. My problem still exists the thing wont run. I have a troy bilt string trimmer and it just decided not to start this season.
very helpful and clear video! thank you Mark!
Mark Great video, question is what is the setting for the needle valve? That would be good to post.(in thousands of an inch) Thanks.
Very helpful.Have WG - your process is excellent.
Very good instructive video
what if the new gaskets or reed valves are not identical to the ones on the carb already? can I use them or did I buy the wrong kit?
Hey Mark, I have an Echo PE 200 edger. I replaced the throttle body that somehow was broken on the inside of the carb. Once I was done, the unit would start and run but not while in idle. It only runs if the trigger is fully depressed. I replaced the spark plug, gas lines and grommet, air filter, gas filter, bulb, rebuilt the carb and changed the intake gasket. I use new fuel and oil mix. I used carb cleaner and air. Made sure the spark arrestor was clean and my edger still stalls when I release the trigger. I'm out of ideas??? Help!!
Is this carb similar to a zama off a echo trimmer srm210 to be exact?
clean it and make sure the ports are clear before reassembly
Great video. Saved me $100, thanks
Nice video Mark. Only one comment or question. You didn't show the correct metering lever height. I believe on this Walbro, it should be even with the carburetor machined surface.
Eric
Where can i find the fuel lines for the WA 226? mine is a craftsman weed wacker?
All of u videos are helpful.. you the man .. thx for shering
I have a husqvarna trimmer 128R (Zama carburetor C1Q-W40A), which is suitable tool to remove the set screws of the mixture? Thanks in advance. Living in Brazil. Nelson Silva.
Great group of help vids. I will be coming back, and ordering parts. Thanks.
so do the hoses need to be air tight, and also does the bulb when you prime it always is it supposed to always have fuel in it....
muito me ajudou suas aulas pra desmontar e montar carburador otima didatica. obrigado
thank you....was wanting to know where the gas lines feed into the carb fron the gas tank...two stroke husqvarna 223l weed eater...
The inlet is on the side behind the mixture adjustment screw and the return line is directly across on the opposite side.
I have a sears self propelled mower engine model number 143..986700 and I took off the bowl of the carburetor and used a bread tie wire to put in the holes and cleaned real good then replaced everything. The mower now acts like it isn't getting any gas at all. Before it would start and would stay running unless constantly priming huum what can I do now and a few questions if you don't mind. Why on earth does just a new kit make things all better. I don't know what the gasket type thing that goes on with the gasket actually does and I also have a lettile tube that sticks down from the carb and goes into the botton bowl not sure what that does either and I may in fact have a spring missing but wasn't sure ass I didn't see one when taking apart. I couldn't find a video for this particular carburetor. Thanks for any help.
+Bruce Hampton The reason a new kit helps is usually because most carburetor have a rubber piece in them that acts like a fuel pump. Over time the rubber becomes less pliable causing the motor to starve for fuel. You can usually tell the rubber is getting old by having to keep priming the mower to keep it running. These carbs are commonly made by 1 of 2 manufacturers. If you have the carburetor off it should either be a Zama or Walbro and kits for most of these are readily available and pretty well priced. The whole craftsman carb is available for around $96.00. If you can find any numbers on your carb, write back and I'll see what I can find to get you going again.
thank you
My friend handed me a craftsman blower, 32cc. I discovered the fuel line broken. I was able to make it run. But, it will not idle. Do you think this 12 year old blower, might need new carb gaskets?
So where are the o rings, rubber pieces etc that supposedly get brittle? I need to rebuild mine as I left gas in it from last year.
thank's mark....helped me big time
Hi Mark. I Have a Poulan 2150 LX (2.2 CID) chainsaw that runs only with the choke fully actuated. If you hit the throttle it dies or push in the choke, it dies. Do you think it's the fuel pump diaphram going out, so therefore a tear down and rebuild of the carburetor is needed?
packrat76 If it only runs with full choke then its not getting enough fuel. Rebuild it and get a 1 gallon paint can of carb cleaner with parts basket. This is what I am talking about.
www.amazon.com/Gunk-CC3K-Carburetor-Cleaner-Basket/dp/B000ABGA4E
Let it soak for 24 hours after disassembly. After you let it soak use a compressed air can or air compressor to completely blow out ALL of the little holes. It doesnt take much to clog these little guys. There a quite a few things not included in the video. There are usually 2 metering jets. Some require a special tools. You can usually leave them alone and be fine. On occasion it is where the clog is, If it is subject make note of turns to bottom it out. Then remove them. The one on the left is low side and the one on the right is high side. Needle valve is always longer on the low side then the high side 2 cycle engine oil will gum up after sitting unused for an extended period of time. Only remove needle valves if necessary. If they are remove just set back to original position. If you dont remember. Screw them all the way in and then 1.5 turns out and turn idle screw all the way up. The adjust low side first for a smooth running and turn down for smooth idle. then adjust high side to top speed and back it in .5 turns. You should be good to go. Hope this helped.
byrysh
That helps a lot, thanks! 2 questions. You are saying I need to remove the jets themselves? So is it necessary to remove the zinc plugs to get to the jets?
packrat76 Dont have to..Better if you dont move them at all, it can be a pain sometimes getting it reset right. just if you need too, make a note of the screws howe many turns to go all the way in and reset it after you rebuild it. As far as the zinc plugs, Ive only seen one that needed replaced in all the yearsI'ive done this. Its for machining and they dont need to be removed just clean it out with compressed air in all the little holes. what I do is find where it goes in and comes out and put a little carb cleaner and see if it blows out. if so its not clogged. GL :) LMK if ya got any more questions.
byrysh
Thanks a bunch buddy. Appreciate the helpful info.
packrat76 np
Please explain if it is possible to put your needle lift bracket on upside down. I fear i did this. Now my primer bulb collapses on itself. I thought the lil lipped ring on the needle lift bracket or Fulcrum is what one end of the spring goes up against. Now THERE'S NO PISTON MOVEMENT TO THE NEEDLE. ANY HELP?
And could you tell me what model carburetor goes to a weed eater power pro edger.
Thxs a ton.
Robbie
It is possible to get the lift bracket upside down. That could cause the primer bulb to collapse. I would open that
carburetor again to see if that is the problem. I'm not really sure anything else you cause the problem. Send me the model number to your Weed Eater Pro Edger and I'll be happy to get you the price and availability
for the Carburetor.
Any torque limits on the screws?
Hi , I bought a brand new maverick for Christmas, it has done 4 tanks, but last two tanks it was cutting out, and dying down, noticed that tankis sucking itself in, took cap off tank, and it hissed, but now it will not start at all, engine sparks, but will not fire, high and low spd needle has been adjusted, should I try readjusting them from factory settings again, any idea.
I would set the carb back to the original settings. The problem you've described, even though its a new tool, sounds like a plug in the carburetor. Try putting a drop of fuel in the carburetor throat to see if it is a fuel issue. Also, most of the caps for these are vented to help control a vacuum issue in the tank. Thirdly, if the carb is plugged after such a short time, check inside the tank to see of the fuel filter has become unattached.
I did all this but I have 1 question I have a blue gasket, where does it go? And On the primer bulb, or under it, Is there a gasket
Hi Mark, I have a ryobi 700r. It will run on the primer bulb. I cleaned the carb but no fuel getting through, Any thoughts?
I would try to clean it again and replace the diaphragm. The ports in these are so tiny it takes next to nothing to plug them and they almost impossible to open once they are plugged.
Ray Miller oh man... get a very skinny piece of wire. and wiggle it in all the little holes. Buy a can of parts cleaner with a basket and let it soak for 24 hours. And then blow it out with comprssed air. If it only runs on the primer reed valves arent working and letting fule be pulled in. rebuild with he right kit.
I remove the welsh plug to clean the tiny jets inside. Besides, to remove it you srill just through it's surface, use a pick and pluck it out. To install the new welsh plug, set it in place, use a small round tube one half the diameter of the plug and give it a couple light wacks to stretch the plug out into place, easy.
Mark --- before you removed the base plate, the hole in that plate was oriented at the top of the carb. When you reinstalled the plate, the hole was positioned to the side of the carb. Does this make any difference?
Hi Buck, and thank you for your question. As near as I can tell, the base plate is simply a cover for the carburetor and therefore it probably wouldn't matter all that much. However, I would advise re-assembling the carburetor exactly the way you took it off. It must have been a simple oversight in this video. Thanks again for the question, and good luck with the repair!
You do a great job! Thanks.
I have wt 990 carb. I recently bought new and only after a few tanks it stopped delivering gas. The punter bulb was full and it ran perfectly the prior day. What could be the cause of this ? The fuel filter was recently replace about the same time the carb was,Also I'm running this carb in a very dusty environment, How necessary is it to place a filter over the small inlet hole on he rear of the carb to prevent dirt from entering it? From my understanding the carb partially breathes thru that tiny square hole just below the primer build ? Thanks
It's unusual for a new carburetor to give problems so quickly. The Ports on these carburetors are so small, the smallest bit of debris can plug them. Sometimes the diaphragm in the bottom of the carb gets damaged. The diaphragm acts as the fuel pump so if it is damaged or not working, the tool will not run either. Ethanol is really hard on these smaller carburetors.
My TORO single stage snow blower(38445) carb. appears to be a composite material.
In another of your super videos you show the use of a 'Lyman Sonic Cleaner' to really get the job done. My question is does the composite carb. hold up in the Lyman without damage, does it require a specific milder cleaner, should cleaner not be used at all.
I know this question is a little outside the realm of this re-building video, but, I would need to cover the carb. body question in my attempts on the rebuild. Your carb body appears to be all metal. ??????
I find a lot of warpedparts, like the Thicke aluminum over with the single screw. This seems to be the situation on mostly the Chinese versions that some manufacturers use now.
What I've been doing is surfacing them one a piece of 180# wet/dry paper, masking taped to the surface of a piece of glass.
These warped parts are showing in Craftsman/Poulon and a few Stihls. Husky has not had any that I've found to be Chinese.
HELP. I bought a new kit, but still got trouble that its not priming with the bilb, I see that the valve in the prima goes straingt to bottom of carb? all cleaned, Any help
Great vid helped a lot!!
Great job as with all your other repair videos. AAA
I thank you....that was very short and sweet and interesting as we'll ...real good job , thanks again
Fantastic video. Thank you!
Confidence inspiring.
Excellent video very helpful. Thankyou
Hi, the Metering Diaphragm Cover has a breather hole, when putting the cover back on does it matter what side the hole is pointing?
Point the hole on the side of the two locating lugs(used to locate the gasket) on the carb body. You'll notice this at the beginning of this video.
Allan Wells @1:18 you can clearly see the hole pointing up towards the adjustment screws, then again with a closer view @ 1:26.During the assembly starting @ 5:50 you can see the hole is rotated 90 degrees to the right. I'm not sure which is correct but I'm going to place the hole up like at the beginning of the video
Allan Wells I noticed this orientation at the beginning of the video but he reassembled it in a different position. Thanks.
Before you replace the old parts with the new parts from the kit, is it necessary to clean the carburetor with a carburetor cleaner?
+John Bojorquez Alway, Always, Always clean the carb before you put new parts in. The smallest bit of debris can plug the tiny openings.
I have a viza v2 gas scooter, it takes a while to start up and when it does it just dies down when i press the throttle.. any thoughts? Is it just the carb?
kam maldonado if it has good compression its the carb. If not compression ring is bad. rings are bad
good video, thanks mark
I have a Tecumseh tc300 that is very hard to start even after cleaning the carb. You can get it started with starter fluid but once you get it started it runs great. One reason might be something wrong with the primer bulb because you push it and it doesn't tighten up with gas like it should. Any ideas?
+Kuiper Roerdink I'm guessing the primer bulb is key to the problem. Check the bulb and hoses for any pin holes or leaks.
Check your diaphragm. You can get a thumb gauge put a hose from the gauge to the fuel port going to the primer bulb. Prime the bulb (you should see the psi needle go up on the thumb gauge. If the needle hold steady its not the primer bulb. You can also check the seals by take the thumb gauge put the hose to the other fuel port. Pump up the psi and drop the entire carburetor in a jar of water (it won't hurt it)
Now look for and bubbles. If you see bubbles there's your problem a seal leak.
What's the best way to clean the carb. I have changed all parts but it still won't run, I think it is a jet or port that is blocked. The one in the throat I can't get to or remove.
+Randall Montes Your right. Some of the ports on these are very small and can easily plug. I've had the best luck with carb cleaner and atube. If it still won't come free I use an Ultrasonic cleaner.
He makes putting the needle valve back in look way easy. That was a pain. A tip, if your carb has a primer bulb on the top, rebuild the bottom first so it sits flat and you can get the needle valve in easier! No, really, do the bottom first, you'll thank me later!
very help full video. thank you.
Now see I did all that and now putting my carburetor back together, first fired up really well when I give it to gas it chokes out. Any idea what that might be?
Your problem might be a problem still with in the carburetor but I would check the exhaust port to see if there is a carbon build up. A clogged exhaust port will restrict the flow of the exhaust causing the engine to die as you try to accelerate. You should also double check the fuel line to make sure you don't have any kinks restricting the fuel flow.
Good video ! Thanks !
I guess I'll have to start all over I went through that and still doesn't work right mine is different both tubes you hock the hoses to are on the same side I have wt520.
good job, but what if the needle and seat leak, youll flood the engine
Mark < Do you have any video's for sale on reassembling a chainsaw ( crankcase to starter assembly) .I have a Husqvarna 445 . engine I need to reassemble and would like some assistance . Thank You // Sonia A
+John Allen All of our videos are on line and free to help with your repairs. We don't have any going as deep into the engine as that. There may be some online. They are usually free to view.
Husqvarna 455 rancher teardown and rebuild, bolt for bolt! part 1 on U Tube