disconnecting your battery is what cleared the code. the module you removed was not your pcm and likely didn't solve your problem as i'm certain the code came back a few km down the road. but i do commend you on thought and use of contact spray in potentially solving a poor connection problem, just did it on the wrong module.
that module you removed is the air bag control module (Not going to do anything to fix this code).. the PCM which is where the problem lies due to the code you are referring to. most of the time this code refers to an internal fault with the PCM and is usually intermittent, that's why you are able to clear the code and it works temporarily until fault reoccurs. this video should be locating the PCM on this vehicle and cleaning the contacts going to the PCM which on this vehicle is located under the hood not in the vehicles interior.
This is for the viewers, not the poster: P2610 generally triggers when the engine was Off, then back On, and it wasn't able to note the time it was Off. It should take two or three Off/On cycles to trigger the check engine light (CEL). So you can clear the code and start it, and there will be no check eng light like in the video, but if it's still a problem the CEL will reappear later... Killing power by unplugging the car won't clear a real code, but it can correct false codes or glitches, which are more common that real codes imo. Then you need to clear the code, or drive the car long enough for it to clear on its own. It's much easier to clear the code and check later if it came back vs waiting around hoping it clears on it's own. Also, no need to clean that connector, assuming that was the issue. You simply unplug and plug it back in which scrapes off corrosion that caused the problem. That cleaner is for oil, grease, grime etc, and it looked very clean to me. Contact cleaner isn't a special super electrical contact cleaner, it's simply a solvent that leaves virtually no residue. As for cleaning corrosion, it will clean dirty corrosion, leaving you with clean corrosion :o So my guess is the code in the video is still there and the CEL reappeared later. Or maybe a fluke and clearing the code is all it needed. Or maybe that plug was the issue so it won't return, but you still need to clear the code to clear the CEL, and wait to see if it comes back. Lastly, if you're getting a car smogged you need to drive it for a while afterwards because the code will linger for a while. Just because you can't see it with a code scanner doesn't mean it's not there, and the smog machine can see it and will fail you. I assume this is this is to prevent people from clearing a code and smogging it real quick, so this which forces you to prove the car can drive a while and the code won't come back. Why can only the smog machine see this lingering hidden code? Good question, but I believe, since the government dictated this, it was to make $. You fail smog and it costs you $40, but the government makes a couple bucks from that which is all that matters to them. Like a burglar, they don't care what breaking your window and trashing you car or home cost you hundreds, maybe thousands, they got $20 for the stereo they ripped out. The rule of thumb to clear a lingering hidden code is drive 200 miles. Not sure if you really need to drive that far, it's just assumed 200 will for do the trick. So whenever you have a CEL, clear the codes and drive 200 miles. If after that time there are no codes, you are probably ok to smog it. And remember, any time you clear codes you reset that 200 mile timer.
😂 you're funny 🤣! Even with all that being said, it's worth a try! You had me going there for a second, have a nice day and stop hating on tips like this one!
@@giveme10feet The only thing the video tells us is that he cleared the code. So you can do absolutely nothing to the car except clear the code, and get the exact same result. So I worry about people who think they fixed it, or even if they did, then rush down to get a smog check. Which of course they will fail. Rather than hoping to make a buck on the # of views I get, I did spent my personal time writing this for one reason; hoping someone somewhere doesn't waste time and $, especially on a failed smog. I wish I had an answer for P2160, but it is a rare and often impossible problem to get rid of. Ironically it has nothing to do with smog, but will cause a failed smog check. From what I can tell, based on what little info there is on it, it's usually just a glitch and resetting the car may fix it. Meaning disconnect the battery for a while. If that fails you can try changing the ECU, which is usually expensive, but odds are it will do nothing. If that fails, you're screwed. Even the dealer won't know what to do because they don't know what causes it, or why it exists. To top it off there is nothing actually wrong with the car, but you're screwed if you can't smog it. Assuming you need to smog it... If not then you can ignore it because P2610 means nothing at all.
How did corrosion on the terminals develop when the pcm is inside the vehicle? Don’t think that was the issue. It went off because you disconnected the battery and disconnected the plugs on the pcm and reset the pcm. Please explain why cleaning the terminals fixed it. It does not make sense.
Disconnecting the battery might have had something to do with the CEL going away and the fact that the module you removed was for the air bags might have something to do with the air bag light coming on. To quote Paul Rudd In the movie Role Models “Congratulations you’re stupid in 3 languages “
disconnecting your battery is what cleared the code.
the module you removed was not your pcm and likely didn't solve your problem as i'm certain the code came back a few km down the road. but i do commend you on thought and use of contact spray in potentially solving a poor connection problem, just did it on the wrong module.
that module you removed is the air bag control module (Not going to do anything to fix this code).. the PCM which is where the problem lies due to the code you are referring to. most of the time this code refers to an internal fault with the PCM and is usually intermittent, that's why you are able to clear the code and it works temporarily until fault reoccurs. this video should be locating the PCM on this vehicle and cleaning the contacts going to the PCM which on this vehicle is located under the hood not in the vehicles interior.
Exactly
Why do you think there's no audio?
This is for the viewers, not the poster: P2610 generally triggers when the engine was Off, then back On, and it wasn't able to note the time it was Off. It should take two or three Off/On cycles to trigger the check engine light (CEL). So you can clear the code and start it, and there will be no check eng light like in the video, but if it's still a problem the CEL will reappear later...
Killing power by unplugging the car won't clear a real code, but it can correct false codes or glitches, which are more common that real codes imo. Then you need to clear the code, or drive the car long enough for it to clear on its own. It's much easier to clear the code and check later if it came back vs waiting around hoping it clears on it's own.
Also, no need to clean that connector, assuming that was the issue. You simply unplug and plug it back in which scrapes off corrosion that caused the problem. That cleaner is for oil, grease, grime etc, and it looked very clean to me. Contact cleaner isn't a special super electrical contact cleaner, it's simply a solvent that leaves virtually no residue. As for cleaning corrosion, it will clean dirty corrosion, leaving you with clean corrosion :o
So my guess is the code in the video is still there and the CEL reappeared later. Or maybe a fluke and clearing the code is all it needed. Or maybe that plug was the issue so it won't return, but you still need to clear the code to clear the CEL, and wait to see if it comes back.
Lastly, if you're getting a car smogged you need to drive it for a while afterwards because the code will linger for a while. Just because you can't see it with a code scanner doesn't mean it's not there, and the smog machine can see it and will fail you. I assume this is this is to prevent people from clearing a code and smogging it real quick, so this which forces you to prove the car can drive a while and the code won't come back.
Why can only the smog machine see this lingering hidden code? Good question, but I believe, since the government dictated this, it was to make $. You fail smog and it costs you $40, but the government makes a couple bucks from that which is all that matters to them. Like a burglar, they don't care what breaking your window and trashing you car or home cost you hundreds, maybe thousands, they got $20 for the stereo they ripped out.
The rule of thumb to clear a lingering hidden code is drive 200 miles. Not sure if you really need to drive that far, it's just assumed 200 will for do the trick. So whenever you have a CEL, clear the codes and drive 200 miles. If after that time there are no codes, you are probably ok to smog it. And remember, any time you clear codes you reset that 200 mile timer.
😂 you're funny 🤣! Even with all that being said, it's worth a try! You had me going there for a second, have a nice day and stop hating on tips like this one!
@@giveme10feet The only thing the video tells us is that he cleared the code. So you can do absolutely nothing to the car except clear the code, and get the exact same result. So I worry about people who think they fixed it, or even if they did, then rush down to get a smog check. Which of course they will fail. Rather than hoping to make a buck on the # of views I get, I did spent my personal time writing this for one reason; hoping someone somewhere doesn't waste time and $, especially on a failed smog.
I wish I had an answer for P2160, but it is a rare and often impossible problem to get rid of. Ironically it has nothing to do with smog, but will cause a failed smog check. From what I can tell, based on what little info there is on it, it's usually just a glitch and resetting the car may fix it. Meaning disconnect the battery for a while. If that fails you can try changing the ECU, which is usually expensive, but odds are it will do nothing. If that fails, you're screwed. Even the dealer won't know what to do because they don't know what causes it, or why it exists. To top it off there is nothing actually wrong with the car, but you're screwed if you can't smog it. Assuming you need to smog it... If not then you can ignore it because P2610 means nothing at all.
Won't disconnecting the battery clear the code?
How did corrosion on the terminals develop when the pcm is inside the vehicle? Don’t think that was the issue. It went off because you disconnected the battery and disconnected the plugs on the pcm and reset the pcm. Please explain why cleaning the terminals fixed it. It does not make sense.
Disconnecting the battery might have had something to do with the CEL going away and the fact that the module you removed was for the air bags might have something to do with the air bag light coming on. To quote Paul Rudd In the movie Role Models “Congratulations you’re stupid in 3 languages “
You mad
This is not pcm
Air bag ecu
Lol misinformation... anyway you tried