For those of you that have asked how they can tip me. You can now click the “super thanks” button and add a tip. Grateful for all my viewers and subscribers! This channel would be nothing without you.!
I just did this job following your instructions. Hands down, your video is the best automotive instruction video I have seen. There was no annoying extra dialog, your instructions were clear and you offered a lot of useful tips. I paused and rewatched some of the more difficult steps. Keep up the great work.
Thank you so much for putting this video up, excellent instruction, this saved me around $1000 in labour costs. I was not able to get the pump out going over the driveshaft and out the side, I ended up taking the cool fan out which was easy enough and that allowed easy removal of the electric water pump. Thanks again awesome.
This was the exact video for my X5 and everything worked exactly as Brian detailed it. I agree one of the best instructional videos and camera work I've seen. Couldn't have done it without this. Thank You.
While this video was well produced, and shows a very nice alternative option to remove pump, I would recommend to your viewers to simply remove the electric fan and remove the pump through the engine bay. There are only four very easy bolts to remove from a very comfortable position and the fan simply clips in and out on two points on the side, one fan connector, and the pump easily can be removed between the front of the engine and the radiator. I simply cant agree that removing the heavy tire, numerous fasteners on the plastic shrouding, and very awkward and difficult to reach aluminum coolant pipe engine attachment is a better way to do this job than simply removing the electric fan from the engine bay. Just the fan, not the radiator, needs to be removed. As long as one is careful when removing the pump not to nick the radiator channels, you'll save significant time and aggravation doing this job. There are three (not two as this video suggests) E8 reverse torx bolts on the 2012 x5 3.0T aluminum coolant pipe that are significantly harder to get back in than to remove, and I would prefer not to have to deal with them. Thanks and best wishes.
Just finished Removing it using your method. Significantly easier. Not sure why I haven't thought of that. Probability my distain for bmws clouded my judgment, 🙃
Thank You Brian! I just did this job and found it to be "hard" but your steps and especially the video you did were among the best I have ever seen in any how-to video by far. While it is almost impossible to improve on the work you show here, I do have just one suggestion to anyone doing this job. The metal tube that has to come off of the block with the E8 torx bolts can be accessed directly with a 1/4" drive set-up by using an 8" extension and a 1/4" drive socket. That direct connection is a bit more positive than using the universal set-up on a 3/8" drive approach coming in from 2 feet away and there is plenty of room to get at it. If anyone out there needs to do this job, this video nails the steps!
Hi friend, as I had seen how well and detailed which to me shows you may have a master's degree in the trade, I had taken an outlook Saturn 08, I took it to the agency to see what went wrong with it after I rebuild the engine it worked fine but I didn't liked the oil the owner wanted me to put in, recommended by factory, as I was putting in seems like water soon we start the engine it ran good but I didnt like the noise we stop it after 10 min running and the owner had to move out leaving the SUV alone for about 30 days then we tried to start it and the engine was tottaly stuck, removed the v.covers it was completely rusted oil pan the crankshaft like if it was in the middle of the sea impossible to turn it checked the radiator water it was there full so do you know what kind of oil is the manufacturers are doing and if is any good for new engine's, I had never had problems with my old car that I had never rebuild the engine still pass the smog test with 240k miles but I had never used other than 20-50 oil only repairs I had done is replacement of the timing belt 3 times
This video saved me so much trouble! I seriously doubt I would have figured this out on my own! Thank you so much! My water pump was very difficult getting out but I got it!
You make this look easy. I looked at doing this on an 08 x5 3.0si with and electric sway bar. The sway bar is positioned differently, and directly in the way of getting the thermostat out from the direction you did, or working from the angles you did.
Wow what a pain in the ass. I definitely do like the old school style mounted in the front on the M52 engines. Much simpler to replace. Thanks for taking the time to film all of this. ;)
Hi, the radiator have a drain plug in the driver side. This is important in order that coolant is extremely toxic. when refill, bleed the system... insert the key, hit start button withOUT push brake pedal, put the AC in the hottest temperature (84F), push gas pedal to the bottom and wait until coolant pump activates. Do this with the reservoir tank opened. Then check how air is coming out. Do this just for 1 or 2 minutes max to avoid drain the battery. Then go for a run ensuring that motor gets hot. Wait a couple of hours until coolant is cool and open the tank allowing air goes out. Thanks for the video! and keep posting
You are priceless in your knowledge. thank you for sharing. This is like dealing with a 'Rubik's cube' in the removal after the unbolting. Thank you for sharing. You make it look fairly easy. How you figured this out while making the video is just epic. I'm grateful for your talentes. THE BEST VIDEO ON UA-cam for a very intricate repair!! KUDOS!!!
Thanks for a great video you are a real technician with your knowledge and experience hope you are in the place where they recognize you and makes plany of money
Great video, I do have a question I replaced the water pump and thermostat also thermo thermo switch goes in the cylinder head at 2008 BMW x5 with 105k miles bleed the cooling system and star the car but from the first minute the radietor fan go on and won't shut off What could be related thank's for you time
@@HowtoAutomotive I was thinking about but I never had codes olso I replaced the battery and I haven't register that my have be related Thank again for you information have a great day
A note to other rookies like me. Before you start, remove the radiator cap. If you don't, there will be a vacuum in the system and the hoses, nearly impossible to remove.
Great camera work and instruction. Only thing to add is that it is easier to move the pump up behind the radiator after removing the fan if your turbo is in the way.
You did a great job with everything in the explanation and repair only thing that you did forget is the bleeding procedure that you would have to go into the car with a battery charger set your settings on your heater to full blast and push down on the gas so that the electronic pump turns on and bleeds out any air other than that the whole procedure is awesome
Easier to remove two motor mount bolts and raise the engine 1" than the bolts on the metal pipe that attaches to the block (5:00 in this video). That hose has to get out of the way in order to remove the pump. Mine was mounted near the firewall, probably a feed for the heater cores, and removal was NOT an option. But, thanks to this AWESOME video I replaced mine AND after bleeding the sytem* it worked. (*key on but NOT started, all climate control temps @84(highest) and fans on low, then hold the gas pedal to the floor for 10-12 seconds . . . On a well charged battery or jumped to a running vehicle).
Great detail and well shot How-to-video My 2010 X5 x-drive with active sway bar Is a bit different, Removal of the fan, radiator is needed. Some how I was able to get the old pump out and manuvered to come out the front , behind the A/C but for the life of me I can't get the new one in. It might be possible if I remove the A/C belt, any suggestions?
Great Video Brian, you really know your stuff. I like the way you explained everything step by step. Best video on UA-cam. I wish you were in Chicago so we could brought my Dad's 2013 x5, Msport to you. ***Warning*** These N54 and N55 engine are notorious for low coolant, remember to add Pentofaust with distill water 50/50 but nobody runs around with it sitting in the car, so we fill it with European car approved coolant and we dont bleed it or over fill it then Bammm, shit started to go wrong*** So back to my story, engine overheated and spilled out all the coolant, (we recently got a new radiator 4 months ago), took it to the mechanic and he said its the water pump, so We ordered the both Water pump and Thermostat, since they go together, ordered identical parts with verified Vin and serial numbers from online for 240 + BMW blue 50/50, 2 gallons of coolant for total $36 and the mechanic installation was $250 but X5 is still overheating after it was fixed properly. Any guesses? on what could be the issue. Also, Should we do a proper bleeding, such as turn the engine to acc+ heat high, fan low, push the gas peddle 10 sec, let the coolant run for 12 min with open cap, then start the car to let the coolant warm up then close the cap etc. Please advise me. Thanks
Awesome video Chris, I'm a rockie on this electric water pumps, I followed your video and it worked great, however after installation the radiator when bad and i was advised by the radiatior shop that it seemed that i had electrolicyt in the system any suggestions? I went back to see if there's any parts of the pump touching the metal and didn't see anything also I put a full gallon of BMW antifreeze and the rest with distilled water please let me know if you have any suggestions thanks in advance!!!!
Thank you for the excellent video, I changed my WP and thermostat using your video. I would say the most difficult part for me was putting the two small E8 bolts on the metal pipe back on, everything else went well.
Also the push on hoses would go back on much easier if you use a dab of coolant on the o-rings. In my case, I believe only the thermostat had gone bad but since I had it taken apart I did both of them to avoid going back a few months later.
I just did one on a 2011 e71 and it must be a bit different because there was no chance of getting it out the way you did, I got it out through the inner guard. I wish I had that space behind but the turbo said haha think again. Good video
This vid makes it look simple since there's more room but on my 2007 X5, there is no way you can see (or even get your hands to) the thermostat and water pump because for some reason there is large mechanical axle that has some hydraulic system in the way.. What is this? and how do you go around doing the job.
Great video! Helped me get mine out, however none of the affiliate links worked to order parts. Any updated links will be happy to order from your account. Thanks again!
Great video, great sound, fully informative. respect. Can someone tel where e70 n52 coolant radiator outlet temperature sensor is located. Thanks in advance.
Great video and thanks for your time it took to produce it. My 2010 e70 3.0 suddenly showed "Low Coolant" warning signal. Check the reservoir only to notice no visible coolant at all. Added Coolant and everything seemed fine. Drove it for for close to an hour with no issues. Parked in the driveway. Came back to it about 10 hours later only to find a small puddle on the passenger side. Low Coolant warning displayed again. Pulled the splash guard and looked like coolant drips were coming from the thermostat. In your opinion, could this be from not bleeding or failing Pump and/or thermostat?
m5driver91 If the pump goes bad the fan will run really fast all the time. Also there will be stored codes for it. It’s common for the thermostat or the hoses to leak. Also oil leaks can cause the initial leak.
Great video, I have a 2012 x5 e70 all wheel drive it was easier to get the water pump out when I removed the fan the pump just slid right out from front
Jimmy, Is removing the fan shroud enough to take the water pump out? I have a 2013 X5 e70, which I assume should have the same design in the engine compartment. Thanks.
@@prakash0vegunta Thank you for the reply. My question is whether the fan shroud is the only thing that needs to be removed before accessing the water pump and thermostat. Do you need to remove anything else to make room for that? Thanks.
@@jonhencapital2868 , Like I said mine is 2012 BMW X5 35I Xdrive. First I've removed fan shroud. Then I've removed the bolts for the Thermostat & Water pump from the bottom side of the car by removing the Plastic cover and the Skid Plate. Also, I've pretty much unplugged all the hoses & disconnected Power connections from the bottom side aswell. Once every thing came loose, I've started pulling out the Thermostat first followed by the Water pump. When pulling out the water pump, make sue you slide the water pump all the way to the right side of the radiator and when pulling up, orient the pump base(flat surface which mates with the engine block) facing radiator and that should let you remove the pump easily. Did the same thing for Thermostat. I hope that answers your questions. Good Luck and just have little patience.
What does the pump and thermostat go for? The job doesn't seem impossible to do, in just not great with being patient when it comes to working on cars. And I know the dealership would probably want 500 at least for a job like this. What's your best advice for DIY on this? I have an 07 4.8 X5 e70 I believe
Well done Brian. I have a lift fortunately, still one of the worst jobs I've done on a BMW. You might want to change the description on your title to N55 engine, you have M54 which doesn't have the evil electric pump.
@@HowtoAutomotive first time so I'll tackle in attempt to replace water pump, thermostat, hose sensor, water sensor, and heater valve while at it. Replaced coolant resouvor but seems more issue surface at the same time. My 2011 X5 fan turned on hard and stay running at full blast as soon the key initiated and or started. Coolant hoses still cold after running 15 plus minutes so I believe this is thermostat issue. Any feedback or advice is greatly appreciated.
Have a 2008 x5 replaced water pump and thermostat checked radiator for leaks and still overheating...any suggestions? Also is there such thing as the water pump being electric and mechanical at the same time?
In the 10:00 minute mark when you install the 2 bolts back to the engine block, I have a coolant leak coming from that area after everything was installed. Do you have any suggestions as to why coolant would be leaking from that area? I tighten the bolt and it did not have any effect. Please help. Thanks.
OH MY GOSH! Thank you SO much for this video! I couldn't have figured any of that out without this video. Just finished and my X5 is running better than before. (Wonder if it was failing intermittently for a while) But nonetheless, Thank You! You Rock! -liked and subscribed
I did this job and consider myself a novice to low intermediate. Do take out the radiator fan and use the space created to remove the thermostat and water pump and put the new ones back in. No need to remove the passenger wheel plastic guard. DO NOT remove the aluminum pipe from the block, instead remove the water pump bolts and use your hand to twist off the pump from the loosened hose. Job is much easier not having to worry about using a 2 foot extension to put those bolts back into place. Lastly, a little bit of wd-40 sprayed on a rag and wipe the inside of the quick connect hoses, makes them easier to snap back on.
Excellent video. Thanks a lot! I think my thermostat is dead. Getting P0128 code. Coolant temp hovers at around 180. If I had a fancy lift like yours, I will probably take on this job myself. This job may be a lot more difficult if the car stays on the ground. So I probably still better off bite the bullet and find an independent shop to do it for me.
Great video, I needed it for mine. I do have a question, where is the cooling temp sensor? Would you mind doing a super quick video for that? Thank you.
2008 3.0si X5 leaking coolant from water pump area after engine running for 5 minutes ... Can't locate where exactly leak is coming from ... No overheating issues ...just that leak ...any idea what to could be the culprit.?
Great instruction but if you are DIY at home do your self a Huge favor and drain pull the radiator first. This will give you easy access to everything and you won’t spend 2+ hours trying to squeeze the thermostat and and pump thru an impossibly small opening. This will also make reassembly much easier.
on a 2013 that I did, I could not remove the pipe since the bolts were behind a huge cat. So I was able to get the pump out by taking the bolts out of the turbo actuator and then lift up the transaxle slighty with a jack.
The tube going to the water pump on my 2013 is located in a different place. it connects above the catalytic converter. it is attached with 4 star bolts. Very very difficult to get to. Help.....anyone?
I replaced my thermostat and then started the car to see if still any leaks and bleed the system. After running about 1 minute the car lost power like it had a miss and then died. I cannot get electricity to the car and can hear something like the fuel pump clicking ever few seconds. Any idea what might have happened?
Julius Daniels if you're just looking to do service type work small stuff I would recommend this scan tool in this video clip ua-cam.com/video/kt8VgQiT8KA/v-deo.html . If you're looking to do reprogramming in that type of stuff in the Autel. The one in the video clip is about 200 bucks and the Autel start at 800 and go up to about 3500
How to Automotive .. Thanx... i need one also to be able to reset passenger restraint system warning light. If the unit can do that? Then I will be soon ordering as soon as the funds becomes available
Julius Daniels The one in the video clip will read and clear the codes but it does have limitations on how much data you can see. Sounds like this one would be a good match for you though.
great video is that temp sensor in the t stat the only lower temp sensor...i know theres one next to oil filter....my customers cooling fan coming on right when he starts car so temp sensor gone....parts store sent the upper sensor the "heart" ooking t stat and anoter sensor that looks like the old style that goes into the lower rad hose on the old style but this one dosent have it....
Following ur directions now but having hard time getting the thermostat housing out from the front it has crossmember and sway bar blocking it u must be a magician cause it not comming out i dont want to take the fan and top crossmember off to get it but will try again tomorrow reading other people’s comments, if it doesnt come from the bottom ill take it from the top i guess now see y bmw charges 1100 for labor
How to Automotive just finished up today, the bolts for the sway bar is inside the engine bay not under the car so it was hard to get to. I ended up removing the radiator and fan to get the water pump and thermostat out much easier because i didn’t want to remove the e8 bolts from the block to remove that pipe. Thank you for all your help couldn’t have done it without your video!
I actually think it’s easier to remove the pump from the top without jacking the car up. All you have to do is remove the intakes (bunch of clips), remove the fan (2 clips), the pump pulley, then the pump itself
Man!! Just watching this video scares me. If I can get to it I can do it. But the space is tight and you need special tools and bolts. I was thinking about doing it myself but after watching this video there is no way I am doing this myself.. I hate BMW for making crappie parts that don't last..
How to Automotive I was able to get a VDO/OEM kit with pump, thermostat, bolts, and a gallon of BMW coolant for $480 from oembimmerparts.com It's the same stuff (Continental, Borg) as the BMW pieces from Deutschland 👍🏻
BMW spends more time making repairs tricky and difficult then using common sense and use parts that are not made of plastic. Lol, thank God I don't own this rubbish.
seriously??? this is German engineering?? why do pple buy this stupid cars.. 1. why build a water pump in plastic. its pumping extremely l hot liquid. its bound to fail. 2. why electric just have it running with the belt like most cars 3. You know it will fail so lets tuck it the furthest place possible and lets use magnesium bolts so that its hard to get to and when u do we will milk you ever penny even for the bolts since u cant reuse them. So damn yet pple still buy them and complain how expensive it is to maintain them. No wonder their depreciation value is so high... So annoying yet they look nice.
Actually, EKK, the electric waterpump is BRILLIANT. Belt-driven pumps stop when the engine stops . . . heat continues to be present warping heads and damaging other parts. Electric continues to circulate coolant, cooling engine, AFTER shut-off. I don't disagree with your other two points . . .but there are cars with MUCH worse water-pump placement . . . Subaru Forrester for example.
For those of you that have asked how they can tip me. You can now click the “super thanks” button and add a tip. Grateful for all my viewers and subscribers! This channel would be nothing without you.!
My mechanic wants 1,300 bucks for parts and labor. 2013 X5 , water pump!!
I just did this job following your instructions. Hands down, your video is the best automotive instruction video I have seen. There was no annoying extra dialog, your instructions were clear and you offered a lot of useful tips. I paused and rewatched some of the more difficult steps. Keep up the great work.
This is by far the best video on changing the water pump on the X5. Thank you.
Thank you so much for putting this video up, excellent instruction, this saved me around $1000 in labour costs.
I was not able to get the pump out going over the driveshaft and out the side, I ended up taking the cool fan out which was easy enough and that allowed easy removal of the electric water pump. Thanks again awesome.
My mechanic wants 1,300 bucks for parts and labor. 2013 X5 , water pump!!
This was the exact video for my X5 and everything worked exactly as Brian detailed it. I agree one of the best instructional videos and camera work I've seen. Couldn't have done it without this. Thank You.
While this video was well produced, and shows a very nice alternative option to remove pump, I would recommend to your viewers to simply remove the electric fan and remove the pump through the engine bay. There are only four very easy bolts to remove from a very comfortable position and the fan simply clips in and out on two points on the side, one fan connector, and the pump easily can be removed between the front of the engine and the radiator. I simply cant agree that removing the heavy tire, numerous fasteners on the plastic shrouding, and very awkward and difficult to reach aluminum coolant pipe engine attachment is a better way to do this job than simply removing the electric fan from the engine bay. Just the fan, not the radiator, needs to be removed. As long as one is careful when removing the pump not to nick the radiator channels, you'll save significant time and aggravation doing this job. There are three (not two as this video suggests) E8 reverse torx bolts on the 2012 x5 3.0T aluminum coolant pipe that are significantly harder to get back in than to remove, and I would prefer not to have to deal with them. Thanks and best wishes.
They are called "Inverted Torx". Good info though on your comment 👍
Thank you. I'm dealing with the turbo now and couldn't get it the way this person did
Just finished Removing it using your method. Significantly easier. Not sure why I haven't thought of that. Probability my distain for bmws clouded my judgment, 🙃
Thanks for being specific during the video! That helps more than you can believe
Pete Shamlian glad to help thank you for the tips on parts and thank you for watching!
Thank You Brian! I just did this job and found it to be "hard" but your steps and especially the video you did were among the best I have ever seen in any how-to video by far. While it is almost impossible to improve on the work you show here, I do have just one suggestion to anyone doing this job. The metal tube that has to come off of the block with the E8 torx bolts can be accessed directly with a 1/4" drive set-up by using an 8" extension and a 1/4" drive socket. That direct connection is a bit more positive than using the universal set-up on a 3/8" drive approach coming in from 2 feet away and there is plenty of room to get at it. If anyone out there needs to do this job, this video nails the steps!
This is the best technical support video I had ever seen, step by step 100% well explained
Jose Aguilar I’m glad you like the video. Thank you for watching!
Hi friend, as I had seen how well and detailed which to me shows you may have a master's degree in the trade, I had taken an outlook Saturn 08, I took it to the agency to see what went wrong with it after I rebuild the engine it worked fine but I didn't liked the oil the owner wanted me to put in, recommended by factory, as I was putting in seems like water soon we start the engine it ran good but I didnt like the noise we stop it after 10 min running and the owner had to move out leaving the SUV alone for about 30 days then we tried to start it and the engine was tottaly stuck, removed the v.covers it was completely rusted oil pan the crankshaft like if it was in the middle of the sea impossible to turn it checked the radiator water it was there full so do you know what kind of oil is the manufacturers are doing and if is any good for new engine's, I had never had problems with my old car that I had never rebuild the engine still pass the smog test with 240k miles but I had never used other than 20-50 oil only repairs I had done is replacement of the timing belt 3 times
Best how to video I’ve seen. I’m about to replace one, couldn’t ask for a more clearer video. Thanks
Don Dixon glad the video is helpful. Let me know how yours turns out. Thank you for watching!
This video saved me so much trouble! I seriously doubt I would have figured this out on my own! Thank you so much! My water pump was very difficult getting out but I got it!
You make this look easy. I looked at doing this on an 08 x5 3.0si with and electric sway bar. The sway bar is positioned differently, and directly in the way of getting the thermostat out from the direction you did, or working from the angles you did.
Wow what a pain in the ass. I definitely do like the old school style mounted in the front on the M52 engines. Much simpler to replace. Thanks for taking the time to film all of this. ;)
DaytonCarCare
Replacing a BMW electric water pump is a major pain in the ass, I replaced mine on a BMW 325i E90.
Hi, the radiator have a drain plug in the driver side. This is important in order that coolant is extremely toxic.
when refill, bleed the system... insert the key, hit start button withOUT push brake pedal, put the AC in the hottest temperature (84F), push gas pedal to the bottom and wait until coolant pump activates. Do this with the reservoir tank opened. Then check how air is coming out. Do this just for 1 or 2 minutes max to avoid drain the battery. Then go for a run ensuring that motor gets hot. Wait a couple of hours until coolant is cool and open the tank allowing air goes out.
Thanks for the video! and keep posting
Thank you! Don’t normally work on bmw didn’t think the gas pedal thing would work but it did
Dude subscribed hands down ,music to my ears,great explanation, none of that extra unimportant talk lol
Thank you!
You are priceless in your knowledge. thank you for sharing. This is like dealing with a 'Rubik's cube' in the removal after the unbolting. Thank you for sharing. You make it look fairly easy. How you figured this out while making the video is just epic. I'm grateful for your talentes. THE BEST VIDEO ON UA-cam for a very intricate repair!! KUDOS!!!
instructions are spot on for E70 with xdrive 4 zone , only took me 6hrs on jackstands :)
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for a great video you are a real technician with your knowledge and experience hope you are in the place where they recognize you and makes plany of money
I am well taken care of. Thank you so much for watching!
Great video, I do have a question
I replaced the water pump and thermostat also thermo thermo switch goes in the cylinder head at 2008 BMW x5 with 105k miles bleed the cooling system and star the car but from the first minute the radietor fan
go on and won't shut off
What could be related thank's for you time
Tato Beltran I would start by hooking a scan tool up to it and clearing all the codes it may be in a default mode.
@@HowtoAutomotive I was thinking about
but I never had codes olso I replaced the battery and I haven't register that my have be related
Thank again for you information have a great day
A note to other rookies like me. Before you start, remove the radiator cap. If you don't, there will be a vacuum in the system and the hoses, nearly impossible to remove.
Dave Knight nice tip 👍
Excellent video. Clear and step by step on how to do this job. Thank you.
Great camera work and instruction. Only thing to add is that it is easier to move the pump up behind the radiator after removing the fan if your turbo is in the way.
This is one of the best videos I have seen. Thank you very much.
You did a great job with everything in the explanation and repair only thing that you did forget is the bleeding procedure that you would have to go into the car with a battery charger set your settings on your heater to full blast and push down on the gas so that the electronic pump turns on and bleeds out any air other than that the whole procedure is awesome
Easier to remove two motor mount bolts and raise the engine 1" than the bolts on the metal pipe that attaches to the block (5:00 in this video). That hose has to get out of the way in order to remove the pump. Mine was mounted near the firewall, probably a feed for the heater cores, and removal was NOT an option. But, thanks to this AWESOME video I replaced mine AND after bleeding the sytem* it worked. (*key on but NOT started, all climate control temps @84(highest) and fans on low, then hold the gas pedal to the floor for 10-12 seconds . . . On a well charged battery or jumped to a running vehicle).
thank you for the EXCELLENT VIDEO! Really helped me out!!!!
2013 BMW X5
81,000 miles
Water pump connection hose is leaking,
Very GOOD video, well explained👍👍
Great detail and well shot How-to-video My 2010 X5 x-drive with active sway bar Is a bit different, Removal of the fan, radiator is needed. Some how I was able to get the old pump out and manuvered to come out the front , behind the A/C but for the life of me I can't get the new one in. It might be possible if I remove the A/C belt, any suggestions?
Great Video Brian, you really know your stuff. I like the way you explained everything step by step. Best video on UA-cam.
I wish you were in Chicago so we could brought my Dad's 2013 x5, Msport to you.
***Warning*** These N54 and N55 engine are notorious for low coolant, remember to add Pentofaust with distill water 50/50 but nobody runs around with it sitting in the car, so we fill it with European car approved coolant and we dont bleed it or over fill it then Bammm, shit started to go wrong***
So back to my story, engine overheated and spilled out all the coolant, (we recently got a new radiator 4 months ago), took it to the mechanic and he said its the water pump, so We ordered the both Water pump and Thermostat, since they go together, ordered identical parts with verified Vin and serial numbers from online for 240 + BMW blue 50/50, 2 gallons of coolant for total $36 and the mechanic installation was $250 but X5 is still overheating after it was fixed properly. Any guesses? on what could be the issue. Also, Should we do a proper bleeding, such as turn the engine to acc+ heat high, fan low, push the gas peddle 10 sec, let the coolant run for 12 min with open cap, then start the car to let the coolant warm up then close the cap etc. Please advise me. Thanks
Awesome video Chris, I'm a rockie on this electric water pumps, I followed your video and it worked great, however after installation the radiator when bad and i was advised by the radiatior shop that it seemed that i had electrolicyt in the system any suggestions? I went back to see if there's any parts of the pump touching the metal and didn't see anything also I put a full gallon of BMW antifreeze and the rest with distilled water please let me know if you have any suggestions thanks in advance!!!!
Great video! Tackled the job over the last couple days. Thanks.
Thank you for the excellent video, I changed my WP and thermostat using your video. I would say the most difficult part for me was putting the two small E8 bolts on the metal pipe back on, everything else went well.
Also the push on hoses would go back on much easier if you use a dab of coolant on the o-rings. In my case, I believe only the thermostat had gone bad but since I had it taken apart I did both of them to avoid going back a few months later.
Awesome glad the video help you get your car back on the road. Sounds like it didn’t fight you too much though. Thank you for watching!
@@alexedward1250 yea you should always lube the hoses with coolant, the o-rings you can use a little vaseline that works really well
i didn't see you doing a coolant bleed after putting it in..
does it not need it or if it does, how do you do it?
thanks
Great video! Does it need bleeding?
I just did one on a 2011 e71 and it must be a bit different because there was no chance of getting it out the way you did, I got it out through the inner guard. I wish I had that space behind but the turbo said haha think again. Good video
Tony B it may be different.
How to Automotive I think the main difference for me was I'm in Australia... Right hand drive. I had a steering column in my way aswell as the turbo.
This vid makes it look simple since there's more room but on my 2007 X5, there is no way you can see (or even get your hands to) the thermostat and water pump because for some reason there is large mechanical axle that has some hydraulic system in the way.. What is this? and how do you go around doing the job.
Great video! Helped me get mine out, however none of the affiliate links worked to order parts. Any updated links will be happy to order from your account. Thanks again!
You sir, are the man. Your a life saver.
Great video, great sound, fully informative. respect. Can someone tel where e70 n52 coolant radiator outlet temperature sensor is located. Thanks in advance.
Great video.
Great video and thanks for your time it took to produce it. My 2010 e70 3.0 suddenly showed "Low Coolant" warning signal. Check the reservoir only to notice no visible coolant at all. Added Coolant and everything seemed fine. Drove it for for close to an hour with no issues. Parked in the driveway. Came back to it about 10 hours later only to find a small puddle on the passenger side. Low Coolant warning displayed again. Pulled the splash guard and looked like coolant drips were coming from the thermostat. In your opinion, could this be from not bleeding or failing Pump and/or thermostat?
m5driver91 If the pump goes bad the fan will run really fast all the time. Also there will be stored codes for it. It’s common for the thermostat or the hoses to leak. Also oil leaks can cause the initial leak.
Great video, I have a 2012 x5 e70 all wheel drive it was easier to get the water pump out when I removed the fan the pump just slid right out from front
Jimmy, Is removing the fan shroud enough to take the water pump out? I have a 2013 X5 e70, which I assume should have the same design in the engine compartment. Thanks.
Jon Hencapital, I just replaced water pump and Thermostat on 2012 BMW X5. Removal of fan shroud makes this job a breeze. I agree with Jimmy Jordan.
@@prakash0vegunta Thank you for the reply. My question is whether the fan shroud is the only thing that needs to be removed before accessing the water pump and thermostat. Do you need to remove anything else to make room for that? Thanks.
@@jonhencapital2868 , Like I said mine is 2012 BMW X5 35I Xdrive. First I've removed fan shroud. Then I've removed the bolts for the Thermostat & Water pump from the bottom side of the car by removing the Plastic cover and the Skid Plate. Also, I've pretty much unplugged all the hoses & disconnected Power connections from the bottom side aswell. Once every thing came loose, I've started pulling out the Thermostat first followed by the Water pump. When pulling out the water pump, make sue you slide the water pump all the way to the right side of the radiator and when pulling up, orient the pump base(flat surface which mates with the engine block) facing radiator and that should let you remove the pump easily. Did the same thing for Thermostat. I hope that answers your questions. Good Luck and just have little patience.
Thank you! Best vid how to on this topic.... hands down
Question, why did you not use the built in feature of the electric water pump to bleed the system?
What does the pump and thermostat go for? The job doesn't seem impossible to do, in just not great with being patient when it comes to working on cars. And I know the dealership would probably want 500 at least for a job like this. What's your best advice for DIY on this? I have an 07 4.8 X5 e70 I believe
more like $1500 or more for pump and thermostat and housing
Well done Brian. I have a lift fortunately, still one of the worst jobs I've done on a BMW. You might want to change the description on your title to N55 engine, you have M54 which doesn't have the evil electric pump.
Definitely a pain in the butt. Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Excellent video. Wonder how long the process actually takes?
If you’ve done them before a couple hours. I you’ve never done it three or four
@@HowtoAutomotive first time so I'll tackle in attempt to replace water pump, thermostat, hose sensor, water sensor, and heater valve while at it. Replaced coolant resouvor but seems more issue surface at the same time. My 2011 X5 fan turned on hard and stay running at full blast as soon the key initiated and or started. Coolant hoses still cold after running 15 plus minutes so I believe this is thermostat issue. Any feedback or advice is greatly appreciated.
Have a 2008 x5 replaced water pump and thermostat checked radiator for leaks and still overheating...any suggestions? Also is there such thing as the water pump being electric and mechanical at the same time?
how many kilometers your X5?
In the 10:00 minute mark when you install the 2 bolts back to the engine block, I have a coolant leak coming from that area after everything was installed. Do you have any suggestions as to why coolant would be leaking from that area? I tighten the bolt and it did not have any effect. Please help. Thanks.
OH MY GOSH! Thank you SO much for this video! I couldn't have figured any of that out without this video. Just finished and my X5 is running better than before. (Wonder if it was failing intermittently for a while) But nonetheless, Thank You! You Rock! -liked and subscribed
Excellent job! Will probably save me some money. Thanks!
What is the Failure Rate or time 60k miles. How many hours of labor? Thanks Just bought a 2011 with 46k miles....
I did this job and consider myself a novice to low intermediate. Do take out the radiator fan and use the space created to remove the thermostat and water pump and put the new ones back in. No need to remove the passenger wheel plastic guard. DO NOT remove the aluminum pipe from the block, instead remove the water pump bolts and use your hand to twist off the pump from the loosened hose. Job is much easier not having to worry about using a 2 foot extension to put those bolts back into place. Lastly, a little bit of wd-40 sprayed on a rag and wipe the inside of the quick connect hoses, makes them easier to snap back on.
Good good 👍🏿. That's how I do it
Great video ! What is the size of those two bolts used to pull the pump loose ?
Ron Baynes 6mm by 1.00 pitch
10mm
Excellent video. Thanks a lot! I think my thermostat is dead. Getting P0128 code. Coolant temp hovers at around 180. If I had a fancy lift like yours, I will probably take on this job myself. This job may be a lot more difficult if the car stays on the ground. So I probably still better off bite the bullet and find an independent shop to do it for me.
Great video, I needed it for mine.
I do have a question, where is the cooling temp sensor? Would you mind doing a super quick video for that? Thank you.
Andy Florian The coolant temp sensor is located in the thermostat housing that’s attached to the pump.
Ah ok, thank you very much.
I clicked the link for the water pump on Amazon but it doesn't work. Do you have the part number for the electric water pump?
Great details...well done and thank you!
How did you know that it was a pump problem did it give you a code or was it leaking?
It had a code and also the engine cooling fan was running at super high speeds. There’s some test that you can run with a scan tool.
2008 3.0si X5 leaking coolant from water pump area after engine running for 5 minutes ... Can't locate where exactly leak is coming from ... No overheating issues ...just that leak ...any idea what to could be the culprit.?
Do you know where one would find a service manual for this X5? Need torque specs, etc for a head gasket replacement.
You did a great, excellent job explaining it .. Thank you very much.
Liliano BAriaktari thank you for watching!
The most descriptive for water pump e70 by far.
Great video it will help me a lot !!
Carlos Parada glad the video will help. Thank you for watching!
Very helpful thank my man
The best video they help me a lot 👍🏻
Glad the videos were helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great instruction but if you are DIY at home do your self a Huge favor and drain pull the radiator first. This will give you easy access to everything and you won’t spend 2+ hours trying to squeeze the thermostat and and pump thru an impossibly small opening. This will also make reassembly much easier.
isotope115
I removed the fan and a few other parts.
on a 2013 that I did, I could not remove the pipe since the bolts were behind a huge cat. So I was able to get the pump out by taking the bolts out of the turbo actuator and then lift up the transaxle slighty with a jack.
Gary Sweany nice I’ll give that a try next time I do one
Thank you! I could not get the pump out by unbolting the actuator alone.
I have 2012 x5 35i Sport Turbo and I can't feed the pump out like you did. Is it possible to get it out through the side like you did?
FISHING NW it should come out the side hole. You may need to keep twisting it and trying it from different angles.
Can you remove that black metal bar that is in you way?
Amazing video thank you
Man u a blessing
Great video, thank you!!
Give it the good Ole reachAround
Great video, thanks for the help..
The tube going to the water pump on my 2013 is located in a different place. it connects above the catalytic converter. it is attached with 4 star bolts. Very very difficult to get to. Help.....anyone?
I replaced my thermostat and then started the car to see if still any leaks and bleed the system. After running about 1 minute the car lost power like it had a miss and then died. I cannot get electricity to the car and can hear something like the fuel pump clicking ever few seconds. Any idea what might have happened?
James Sparks I would try to put a scan tool on it and read codes and I will check your battery to make sure it's connected.
Please, comment about the solution of your problem
nice job bro
Raul Perez thank you and thank you for watching!
Thank you for this
Excellent! Thanks
God bless you
Hi... I was in the market of purchasing scan tool... how would rate your scan tool that you used in this video
Thanx in advance
Julius Daniels this is a very nice scan tool. This particular one is outdated though. How much did you want to spend on s scan tool?
Since i have an 07 x5, i need a good compatible one.... what would YOU suggest?
Julius Daniels if you're just looking to do service type work small stuff I would recommend this scan tool in this video clip ua-cam.com/video/kt8VgQiT8KA/v-deo.html . If you're looking to do reprogramming in that type of stuff in the Autel. The one in the video clip is about 200 bucks and the Autel start at 800 and go up to about 3500
How to Automotive .. Thanx... i need one also to be able to reset passenger restraint system warning light. If the unit can do that? Then I will be soon ordering as soon as the funds becomes available
Julius Daniels The one in the video clip will read and clear the codes but it does have limitations on how much data you can see. Sounds like this one would be a good match for you though.
this instruction apply to 4.8 engine too?
no, 4.8 is mechanical.
Thank you , very helpful video!!!
Jose Morales glad the video helped. Thank you for watching!
Very good
great video is that temp sensor in the t stat the only lower temp sensor...i know theres one next to oil filter....my customers cooling fan coming on right when he starts car so temp sensor gone....parts store sent the upper sensor the "heart" ooking t stat and anoter sensor that looks like the old style that goes into the lower rad hose on the old style but this one dosent have it....
Paldies par informaciju… 0:10
Nice video thanks alot
Thank you for watching!
Only BMW could make a simple 30 minute job into an 8 hour lesson in frustration.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Following ur directions now but having hard time getting the thermostat housing out from the front it has crossmember and sway bar blocking it u must be a magician cause it not comming out i dont want to take the fan and top crossmember off to get it but will try again tomorrow reading other people’s comments, if it doesnt come from the bottom ill take it from the top i guess now see y bmw charges 1100 for labor
Ray Ray try dropping the sway bar. Just take the bracket off on the left and right side and let it swing down.
How to Automotive just finished up today, the bolts for the sway bar is inside the engine bay not under the car so it was hard to get to. I ended up removing the radiator and fan to get the water pump and thermostat out much easier because i didn’t want to remove the e8 bolts from the block to remove that pipe. Thank you for all your help couldn’t have done it without your video!
I actually think it’s easier to remove the pump from the top without jacking the car up. All you have to do is remove the intakes (bunch of clips), remove the fan (2 clips), the pump pulley, then the pump itself
4.8 still has mechanical water pump right?
Hello where are you located?
shun john Encinitas California
@@HowtoAutomotive what is your labor charge for this?
Perfect
Man!! Just watching this video scares me. If I can get to it I can do it. But the space is tight and you need special tools and bolts. I was thinking about doing it myself but after watching this video there is no way I am doing this myself.. I hate BMW for making crappie parts that don't last..
Sang Pak well I'm glad the video help you make the right decision for you. Thank you for watching!
Bmw is such garbage
Hey how much cost
henson Ur if you were to pay a shop parts and labor would be around 1000 bucks on the low side 1500 on the high side.
This job started me on doing my own car repairs... I paid the dealer $1600
pgreenx if you did it yourself with all factory parts it would be around 700 bucks. Cool that you did it yourself👍🏻
How to Automotive I was able to get a VDO/OEM kit with pump, thermostat, bolts, and a gallon of BMW coolant for $480 from oembimmerparts.com
It's the same stuff (Continental, Borg) as the BMW pieces from Deutschland 👍🏻
pgreenx I got the same quote, which is why I chose to do it myself as well.
Try tbis with a turbo. No so much
thank u so much i did it iike u do thanks
Thank you for watching!
Why so much hassle over the water pump bolts? Seriously bmw does it on purpose.
Sour Words because it’s BMW
BMW spends more time making repairs tricky and difficult then using common sense and use parts that are not made of plastic. Lol, thank God I don't own this rubbish.
Stupid design, I like the M series engines better (this is the N, typo in the title)
seriously??? this is German engineering?? why do pple buy this stupid cars..
1. why build a water pump in plastic. its pumping extremely l hot liquid. its bound to fail.
2. why electric just have it running with the belt like most cars
3. You know it will fail so lets tuck it the furthest place possible and lets use magnesium bolts so that its hard to get to and when u do we will milk you ever penny even for the bolts since u cant reuse them. So damn yet pple still buy them and complain how expensive it is to maintain them. No wonder their depreciation value is so high...
So annoying yet they look nice.
EKK luckily for me as an automotive technician they are a moneymaking machine.
Yes they are!!!
Actually, EKK, the electric waterpump is BRILLIANT. Belt-driven pumps stop when the engine stops . . . heat continues to be present warping heads and damaging other parts. Electric continues to circulate coolant, cooling engine, AFTER shut-off. I don't disagree with your other two points . . .but there are cars with MUCH worse water-pump placement . . . Subaru Forrester for example.
plastic part is the thermostat not the water pump. Water pump is metal.
Terrible Video, this video is intended to collect views rather than help! Lot of missing steps on how you made room to get to the parts👎