This video from Chef Jean Pierre on knife skills brought me here: ua-cam.com/video/os8xnwxcHg0/v-deo.html Thank you for demonstrating with your microscopic examples why we need to maintain our knives regularly.
I suspect the reason why the edge keeps spontaneously micro-notching during sharpening is because the blade may have been improperly tempered, leaving the edge extremely hard but also a bit too brittle.
I ran into a similar problem with a brand I have. I wonder if it has to do with the quality of steel, as well as trading off durability just to get a higher HRC hardness rating (or to save on tempering costs, or both). I think most steel is purchased - I know nothing about that - but my bet is that less expensive alloys are less consistent. Looks terrible under a microscope, and just light use on a cutting board will result in tiny chips. Maybe that's the difference between a $30 dollar knife and a $230 dollar knife.
@@davesmith5656 That's an interesting point on quality, and could manifest in multie ways - such as variations from one charge to the next, either in their own additions, or in the quality of the materials purchased from suppliers for use in a given charge ... perhaps one of the additions was contaminated with phosphorous for example.
@@RovingPunster ---- I know very, very little about steel, and about the same for tempering (perlite, martensite, astronauts). The brand I have feels great in the hand, and is supposed to be HRC 60, but somehow seems to not sharpen as well as a Henckels HRC 56-57. One of the not-named brand came with a bent blade (a 4.5" which I finally straightened pretty well - pure luck). The retailer refunded the price and told me to keep it. Still, I'm reluctant to pay high for something famous like Miyabi. Mines might even have something to do with it - you know that "Damascus" is not Damascus (Wootz) steel. And the katana makers get / got their steel from one particular mine only. I'm not sure at all, but I think a good resolution 800x magnification will show the crystals formed in tempering - but I wouldn't know what's which, ha.
@@davesmith5656 All your questions will be answered in the book "Knife Deburring: Science behind the lasting razor edge" by Vadim Kraichuk. An sbolute must read if you want a really sharp edge.
Very interesting thank you. Wonderfully clear pictures. I trained as a metal worker and I have been using knives for many years. Despite my best efforts, it seems that every knife gets blunt relatively quickly.... and that really there is no magical steel to make a blade that is perfect in every way. Best wishes from New Zealand.
I had similar issues until I changed two things: first, harder steels (a somewhat painfully obvious fix). Second, a refined technique for burr removal. A burr (even off a 5000+ stone) will always be present when sharpening in the "normal" direction. Normal in the sense that you drag it in the direction where the spine/top/opposite side of the edge is. What I've learned from @OUTDOORS55 is, that this burr will feel sharp and might also cut paper perfectly fine. But it will dull quickly, because cutting with it will bend it / roll it over. To minimize said burr, you want to do a few very light alternating passes against the "normal" direction (you could call it in a reverse direction) at the same angle as before - on the finest grit stone you used/have. Just make sure not to cut into your stone. For the final burr removal use a leather strop with some abrasive compound ("normal" direction, only light pressure, 10 alternating passes). With this, my knives are and stay in a good condition. Honestly, this made cooking fun again. See the videos of @OUTDOORS55 - he does a great job explaining what makes a knife sharp and how to get it sharp in the first place.
@@StephenCooteNZ You're welcome. It definitely helped me to understand sharpening better. Hope it will be advantageous for you as well. Happy sharpening :)
s30v and others like it . I will even put a2 in this group . They are great steels . But great , might go so far as to say extreme care has to be taken on prevention of over heating the blade while grinding.
you might want to try a different companies version of s30v. Benchmade's cpm s30v is a bit better heat treat and doesn't chip as bad as say Spyderco's. I have used and sharpened both Spyderco and Benchmade cpm s30v.
I sharpen both spyderco cpm s30v and cpm s110v and benchmades s30v and I get really nice edges... some steels do not like aluminum oxide stones, and when you get to higher grits and the finer it gets the more it doesn't like it... all those steels like diamond matrix stones or flat diamond stones like the KME (is what i use) or a Lasky, or Wicked edge or other guided sharpener with diamonds, then to lapping films vs a strop with aluminum oxide compound... Wet stones work good on carbon steel. Your steels like Maxamet, Cruwere, cpm s110v and others, your gonna want diamond stones or something like a shapton glass, even tho it will take a while to sharpen s110v on shapton glass if its truly dull. but that steel can usually get stroped to silly razor after a couple handfuls of uses.. my spydercos in s110v will literally stay razor sharp longer than 5 or 7 buck 440hc will doing the same tasks. maybe longer... you cut canvas 1 or 2 times with a razor sharp buck and its not so willing to cut hair anymore... that s110v will cut 17' of canvas, then shave your arm hair, then cut another 17' of canvas, take a 30 second strop, and shave the hair on your cheek. while 10' of canvas would take the edge from 6 buck knives. (the fine edge anyways). but I wouldent baton s110v. Nope. its a super slicy steel. but not baton worthy I don't think. I wouldent stab cans with it either, but s30v on my shaman will cut open can after can after can and it won't chip out. but the buck 440hc won't chip out either.... You can just beat that stuff to your hearts content too, in a bigger blade like a 119 or 120. I wouldent worrie about spydercos s30v tho. its not suspect. if your chipping it, your banging it into high carbon steel blades. that will chip it. Nothing is chip proof. but I've seen bade heat treats chip out cutting hardwood, and thats not acceptable for any knife.
Couldn’t that be geometry and not heat treatment? I have both as well and prefer the spyderco. I remove the burr by passing the edge straight across a piece of very hard wood like aged long leaf pine.
what do you sharpen with.. do not use aluminum oxide.... use industrial diamond and finish with a diamond lapping film, do not exceed 3 micron and you'll get a sweet s30v edge.
It is likely that portion of the blade was over heated then quenched when it was finished ground . Seen it before .. not uncommon. Many times it is a 1000 times worse. As in large finger nail chunks fall out . making the knife totally worthless
Hi, I wanted to ask you a tip, I would like to make me a good bushcraft knife with 10 cm blade to carry with me on trips in nature, choosing the steel wanting to stay on stainless steel, I recommend a 440C well tempered to 57 / 59 hrc which should have a decent wire hold but is it fairly straightforward to be sharpened in nature, or a more modern powdery steel such as S35VN or CPM154 that holds more sharp but is also more complicated to sharpen in nature? Let me know what you think, Thank you Michele.
VLADISLAS TEPES - S30V - v tomto videu - brúsení mala zlú kvalitu! S30V na tomto videu je výborná: SEBENZA 21 S30V (2009) - "V" edge 30° blade 0,49mm - observation in the microscope Carbon ocele majú ešte svoje uplatnenie. Ja osobne by som si zvolil ELMAX - prášková oceľ 3. generácie.
This video from Chef Jean Pierre on knife skills brought me here:
ua-cam.com/video/os8xnwxcHg0/v-deo.html
Thank you for demonstrating with your microscopic examples why we need to maintain our knives regularly.
Chef Jean-Pierre brought me here, also. 🙂
@@hullbarrett Myself as well😉
ME TOO
Haha it's amazing friends :D
Me too😂
after 3st sharpening...
I suspect the reason why the edge keeps spontaneously micro-notching during sharpening is because the blade may have been improperly tempered, leaving the edge extremely hard but also a bit too brittle.
I ran into a similar problem with a brand I have. I wonder if it has to do with the quality of steel, as well as trading off durability just to get a higher HRC hardness rating (or to save on tempering costs, or both). I think most steel is purchased - I know nothing about that - but my bet is that less expensive alloys are less consistent. Looks terrible under a microscope, and just light use on a cutting board will result in tiny chips. Maybe that's the difference between a $30 dollar knife and a $230 dollar knife.
@@davesmith5656 That's an interesting point on quality, and could manifest in multie ways - such as variations from one charge to the next, either in their own additions, or in the quality of the materials purchased from suppliers for use in a given charge ... perhaps one of the additions was contaminated with phosphorous for example.
@@RovingPunster ---- I know very, very little about steel, and about the same for tempering (perlite, martensite, astronauts). The brand I have feels great in the hand, and is supposed to be HRC 60, but somehow seems to not sharpen as well as a Henckels HRC 56-57. One of the not-named brand came with a bent blade (a 4.5" which I finally straightened pretty well - pure luck). The retailer refunded the price and told me to keep it. Still, I'm reluctant to pay high for something famous like Miyabi. Mines might even have something to do with it - you know that "Damascus" is not Damascus (Wootz) steel. And the katana makers get / got their steel from one particular mine only. I'm not sure at all, but I think a good resolution 800x magnification will show the crystals formed in tempering - but I wouldn't know what's which, ha.
@@davesmith5656 All your questions will be answered in the book "Knife Deburring: Science behind the lasting razor edge" by Vadim Kraichuk. An sbolute must read if you want a really sharp edge.
Very interesting thank you. Wonderfully clear pictures. I trained as a metal worker and I have been using knives for many years. Despite my best efforts, it seems that every knife gets blunt relatively quickly.... and that really there is no magical steel to make a blade that is perfect in every way. Best wishes from New Zealand.
I had similar issues until I changed two things: first, harder steels (a somewhat painfully obvious fix). Second, a refined technique for burr removal. A burr (even off a 5000+ stone) will always be present when sharpening in the "normal" direction. Normal in the sense that you drag it in the direction where the spine/top/opposite side of the edge is.
What I've learned from @OUTDOORS55 is, that this burr will feel sharp and might also cut paper perfectly fine. But it will dull quickly, because cutting with it will bend it / roll it over.
To minimize said burr, you want to do a few very light alternating passes against the "normal" direction (you could call it in a reverse direction) at the same angle as before - on the finest grit stone you used/have. Just make sure not to cut into your stone.
For the final burr removal use a leather strop with some abrasive compound ("normal" direction, only light pressure, 10 alternating passes).
With this, my knives are and stay in a good condition. Honestly, this made cooking fun again. See the videos of @OUTDOORS55 - he does a great job explaining what makes a knife sharp and how to get it sharp in the first place.
@@39XenonD Thanks for your comments ! It is always good to have new ideas to contemplate as I sharpen my knives.
@@StephenCooteNZ You're welcome. It definitely helped me to understand sharpening better. Hope it will be advantageous for you as well. Happy sharpening :)
Very good video for learning. Thank you for doing the subtitles :)
Thank you so much!
I really like your video man!! 👍
After 2st sharpening lol
4st and 5st😂😂😂
s30v and others like it . I will even put a2 in this group . They are great steels . But great , might go so far as to say extreme care has to be taken on prevention of over heating the blade while grinding.
What would you suggest?
@@SwitchedOn01 ---- Water and lower rpm.
Спасибо большое за информацию
you might want to try a different companies version of s30v. Benchmade's cpm s30v is a bit better heat treat and doesn't chip as bad as say Spyderco's. I have used and sharpened both Spyderco and Benchmade cpm s30v.
I sharpen both spyderco cpm s30v and cpm s110v and benchmades s30v and I get really nice edges...
some steels do not like aluminum oxide stones, and when you get to higher grits and the finer it gets the more it doesn't like it...
all those steels like diamond matrix stones or flat diamond stones like the KME (is what i use) or a Lasky, or Wicked edge or other guided sharpener with diamonds, then to lapping films vs a strop with aluminum oxide compound...
Wet stones work good on carbon steel. Your steels like Maxamet, Cruwere, cpm s110v and others, your gonna want diamond stones or something like a shapton glass, even tho it will take a while to sharpen s110v on shapton glass if its truly dull. but that steel can usually get stroped to silly razor after a couple handfuls of uses..
my spydercos in s110v will literally stay razor sharp longer than 5 or 7 buck 440hc will doing the same tasks. maybe longer... you cut canvas 1 or 2 times with a razor sharp buck and its not so willing to cut hair anymore... that s110v will cut 17' of canvas, then shave your arm hair, then cut another 17' of canvas, take a 30 second strop, and shave the hair on your cheek. while 10' of canvas would take the edge from 6 buck knives. (the fine edge anyways).
but I wouldent baton s110v. Nope. its a super slicy steel. but not baton worthy I don't think. I wouldent stab cans with it either, but s30v on my shaman will cut open can after can after can and it won't chip out.
but the buck 440hc won't chip out either.... You can just beat that stuff to your hearts content too, in a bigger blade like a 119 or 120. I wouldent worrie about spydercos s30v tho. its not suspect. if your chipping it, your banging it into high carbon steel blades. that will chip it. Nothing is chip proof. but I've seen bade heat treats chip out cutting hardwood, and thats not acceptable for any knife.
@@patpetree872 have you ever had a problem with taking a burr off Spyderco com s30v? I can’t seem to get mine to sharpen for $***
@@patpetree872 what final grit is best for s110v ? is mirror polish edge affect its performance ?
Couldn’t that be geometry and not heat treatment? I have both as well and prefer the spyderco. I remove the burr by passing the edge straight across a piece of very hard wood like aged long leaf pine.
The 3st is real
Is the dog okay?
what do you sharpen with.. do not use aluminum oxide.... use industrial diamond and finish with a diamond lapping film, do not exceed 3 micron and you'll get a sweet s30v edge.
Здравствуйте. А какой Вы использовали микроскоп, марка, модель? Очень хорошее разрешение и качество...
Legan70 Slyadnev Microscope SMZ-168 Trinocular + reduction + NIKON D7000
It is likely that portion of the blade was over heated then quenched when it was finished ground . Seen it before .. not uncommon. Many times it is a 1000 times worse. As in large finger nail chunks fall out . making the knife totally worthless
Hi, I wanted to ask you a tip, I would like to make me a good bushcraft knife with 10 cm blade to carry with me on trips in nature, choosing the steel wanting to stay on stainless steel, I recommend a 440C well tempered to 57 / 59 hrc which should have a decent wire hold but is it fairly straightforward to be sharpened in nature, or a more modern powdery steel such as S35VN or CPM154 that holds more sharp but is also more complicated to sharpen in nature?
Let me know what you think, Thank you Michele.
Great 👍 what kind of microscope are you using ?
Thanks
Microscope SMZ-168 Trinocular + reduction + NIKON D7000
VLADISLAS TEPES - S30V - v tomto videu - brúsení mala zlú kvalitu!
S30V na tomto videu je výborná: SEBENZA 21 S30V (2009) - "V" edge 30° blade 0,49mm - observation in the microscope
Carbon ocele majú ešte svoje uplatnenie. Ja osobne by som si zvolil ELMAX - prášková oceľ 3. generácie.
What microscope did you use in this video?
Motic SMZ 168 trinocular
How much does it cost $15000?
SlavaT preložil titulky do Ruštiny, Peter Štofko do Angličtiny - Ďakujeme Cпасибо Thank You
Chef Jean Pierre brought me here.
m.youtube.com/@ChefJeanPierre
Этот нож не отличается выдающимся резом. Но, в твоих руках... не удивлюсь, если он начнет резать ! :))
Ďakujem a pozdravujem Anatoly
they burnt it up on grinding
Wish I could get an English translation.
Mark Stump titulky sú urobené, pozdravujem Mark
Mark; He said "go to hell imperialist pig!"
after 4st sharping....
Try mirror polished edge
What purpose - mirror polished edge?
Pavol Šandor to see how the smooth are the scratch on the edge
@@anonymousstout4759 here are the mirror images of REX 121 and ZDP189 (Rockstead):
www.knife.cz/Default.aspx?tabid=53&g=posts&m=705333#705333
I would probably stop after thirst sharpening
2st sharpening
Damn I see
1200 має відрізати)
2st= seconst
aaaaaah why not in English!!!!
This video is so interesting, please put ENG subtitle at least, please!
Great job :-)
Как будто местами по русски говоришь, это польский?
Ja som Slovák :)
"3st"
the poor dog... crying in the background
2:40 nigguh really said 5st LMFAO