I recently purchased a Horse tiller that based on the serial number was built between late 1975 and early 1976 that came with the original running Tecumseh HH60-6pm . I've replaced the wheel axel and tine seals that were leaking, rebuilt the carburetor with an original Tecumseh carb kit, added a fuel shut off valve and fuel filter, and replaced the tines. I looked at cheap aftermarket tines, but after some research, I decided on OEM spec KD tines which although are more expensive, I believe are worth the investment. Many aftermarket tines come with a 3 hole pattern, are shorter that OEM and made of lower quality metal. Yes, these tillers are built like tanks and made to last which is why I opted to pay more for OEM spec tines.
I didnt know that about the handle removal to fill the oil , thank you , mine has leaking rear axle seals I need to change and In the meantime keeping it full is a pain with hose and bottle lol just did my times the other day , new belts and now I'm just adjusting everything and nee fluids , to the garden for the first time in who knows how many years, great to see these old machines being used , theyvreally are awesome
That's the easiest way to fill it and the rear seals leaking is a common problem. Usually dirt grinds into the shaft damaging it so the seals dontlast like everything else on these machines. Thanks for watching.
Best video I've ever seen for somebody that doesn't do it everyday of the week, very understandable I haven't messed with a tillerr like this in 30 or 40+ years this one was laying in a field and we're putting it together. I'm going to have to buy some parts for it, two tires a carburetors are already bought, probably a couple hundred dollars and I'll have it running good Tillers I grew up with one of the best , and thanks for the tip about the oil type. I'll report back after I get it running.
I lived in Poughkeepsie years ago and drove up there in 1982 to buy a squeezo. Made some wrong turns and there were some rough neighborhoods not far from the showroom. Sad companies like this couldn't survive the influx of cheap products from China that were junk.
We own a 40+ year old Troy Bilt , HORSE . We would never think about putting it away in that filthy condition . After every use we hose it down and remove any dirt and foreign objects in the tines . For winter storage we drain the tank and purge the carb of fuel. I pull the spark plug and FOG the cylinder walls with oil ,to prevent rusting . The following season ,the startup is flawless .
This one stays outside all summer. Full tank year round with stabilizer and that stuff comes out of the tines first use. Keeps on ticking. Thanks for watching.
I have the same tiller, 7 hp Koehler, still runs great but my times are shot . Just ordered the same times as you. $56.00 Amazon, free shipping. They are around an inch shorter than the original but for a third of the price. So I decided like you to use them. We will see , should be fine.
not sure if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. I've been watching with my brother during the lockdown =)
I have pretty much the same tiller, mine's a 5HP Horse (Kohler iron), probably about 1980. Burns a little oil now, but not bad. I think they had 7hp also, some came with electric start. I have that bumper system too. You can put a "dozer blade" on the front with that (I have one of those too). Those machines last a long time. Nice videos.
This one came with a plow also. I sold it on Craigslist to pay for part of the tiller. The engine lost spark and died the end of last season so I will have to look at it soon. Thanks for watching
So after looking at the gearbox fill I assume the rear tine box is lubricated from the same reservoir. It would appear to run through the drive shaft housing into the rear tine box.
You are correct. Gear oil level was down and I noticed the rear seal was wet. I will need to keep an eye on it. May need to replace that gasket sooner than later. Thanks for the heads up.
Great info on tine replacement..my 7hp needs it and I wasn't sure which tines to get but it looks like the eBay ones will do fine. In my 71 years I've used multi vis in all types of air cooled engines with no trouble. In fact it gets down to 40F at night here even in summer so SAE30 is never a good idea regardless of what manuals say. I use just Supertech 10w-40 in summer equipment, 5W-30 in snowblowers..
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 That's obviously the safe answer and probably how most folks roll. I hope someday you'll have time (and the thermometer) to chill SAE30 to 40°F and tell us what you see. Then heat SAE30 to 170°F and tell us what you see. Same thing with 10W40 and let us know any conclusions...thanks again for the tine video..liked subscribed..
I have a 6 HP Troy-Bilt horse my father purchased in 1981 with a tecumseh engine. It still runs well, starts in one or 2 pulls after being away in storage for the winter). It does smoke intermittently (seems to subside when the oil is actually LOW so it doesn't make sense...) and then the engine almost starts running to an idle until the smoke clears. Can't figure the issue, it's been that way since the last time my father (who has since passed away in 2014) some 20 years ago. I have LOADS of documentation on it - all supplied by Troy-Bilt that they generously gave you before being sold to MTD in the late 1990s and moved out of Troy NY. Other than the smoke, it is nice when the tiller starts in 2 pulls. Of course, getting parts for it is getting tough. I won't let go of it.
I visited the original factory in troy to buy my Squeezo back in the 80s and they were doing well. Too bad companies like them were bought out and the manufacturing moved offshore. Do you turn the gas valve off when not using it? Sometimes the needle valve will leak gas into the cylinder if you don't an make it smoke for a while warming up. Thanks for watching.
Nice old tiller. We have an old Springfield that needs a new engine, belt, and new paint. It's not self propelled like yours is though but it's built like a tank.
It is easier for me to do them with the overvoice. Some of the early videos I tried using the camera microphone and they were pretty bad. Thanks for watching my videos.
I just bought 2 1970's Troy-Bilt Horse Tillers with Electric Start for $150.00, and I bought a 1979 Pony for $125.00 in 2004. I buy every old Troy-Bilt I can.
i bought a used one owner troy built wood chipper from the late 80s about 8 years ago use 2-3 times a year and it still works great troy built was a great out door power equipment co.
@jmaedl027 jmaedl You will LOVE it. See my comments above. Did it come with original documentation? They literally told you how to tear the whole thing down and fix/restore everything. (now finding parts is difficult since TroyBilt was sold to MTD and its original factory in Troy NY was closed.
I just bought a used TB Horse 3 (Kohler 7 hp) circa 1984 at an auction... runs like top. No manual... 30 weight detergent engine oil, but 80/90 wt gear oil for the trans.?
Be sure the gear oil is compatible with brass. Not all 80/90 is. I use 30 wt in the engine because everything else runs right through it. Thanks for watching.
The sulphur /phosphorous blend in gl5 is higher than the gl4 gear oil... the higher sulphur / phosphorous blend sticks more aggressively to the yellow metals, and as a result, the metal peals off of the gears (instead of the additives)..This is not a high heat or high pressure situation, nor is it a 20,000 miles a year rototiller (maybe it is). for the price, go with the manufacturers oil (the price difference is insignificant). I am not recommending anything (gl4 or gl5), I am not selling anything, I am not getting paid. this is only my opinion. Thank you for a wonderful video. Happy Gardening to all !!!
The gl5 from Walmart says on it that it is safe for brass and copper. The manufacturer is long gone so that is not a option. It only sees about 5 hours a year use and this is the oil I have seen reccomended online if you can't find the gl1. Thanks for watching.
Without a doubt, most tillers only see about 5 hours a year, and since it isn't a high heat, high torque, high speed situation I guess that gl 4 or 5 are both quite ok. (the house is falling apart, but things like this turn me into a retentive mess (go figure)). Thanks again for a great video.
You went through the trans oil level check a little fast..for us slower guys without the Troy manual how to you do that again..?? is the level supposed to be at the plug behind the left tire, I'm guessing ya want the tiller level not resting on tines..thanks
I find the easiest way is remove the handle screw and put a screwdriver in there like a dipstick and then hold it up against the side to see if it's level with the plug. You can also remove the side plug and fill till it drips out. The manual shows exactly how to fill it. Thanks for watching.
I have have gotten a lot of contradicting info on what gear oil to use in the horse gear case. This is what I found on Troy-Bilt's sight just in case it's helpful to anyone. Thanks Tiller Transmission Lubricant Sep 11, 2017•FAQ Article Number 000002341 Problem What lubricant should be used in the tiller transmission case? Solution In the past the rule was: For partial fill-ups (a few ounces or less) use SAE 140, SAE 85W-140 or SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 or GL-5. For full replacement use SAE 140 or SAE 85W-140 gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 only. We have also found that 80W-90 oil with an API rating of GL-1 is acceptable for both partial and full replacement of tiller gear oils.
There's a product that you can use to stop the seals from leaking in the transmission. Doublewide6 on UA-cam used it on a snow blower gear box and it works really well. Here is the link to buy it: Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/292044457208 Link to doublewide6 video: ua-cam.com/video/3jjfFM9JuSk/v-deo.html I have never used it but did buy some for the Cub Cadet 582 special we are restoring at the moment.
You have to be very careful about what you add to the oil with the brass gears in these tillers. Some additives will cause them to self destruct. Some day I will replace the seals. I think all the dirt ground in over 35 years could have damaged them.
Enjoyed your video. Thanks for the tip about the GL5. I have the same machine, though I think it has a 6 hp Kohler. Is there a way to fix the clutch adjustment so that I don't have to hold down on it to keep it tilling in heavy cutting? I have tried pretty well everything the book recommends. Question: Why is the transmission oil GL5 rather than 75/90 gear oil?
Out Horse wore out two sets of tones. We took them down until they were straight. Those are, or we're back then, very expensive. We'd call yours only have way used up.
I think you meant, have to use gl-4 so it won't eat the bronze but most gl-5 won't do that anymore. Make sure it says okay for yellow metals or bronze on the bottle.
I have one extremely close in age. I can't find any plates for manufacturers name or anything. Do you have any sources to find out year or anything else that might help
Models older than around 1990 only use horse or pony as the model number. The serial number is on right top side of the transmission below the T handle
I've had a Troy Built since 1979. Great tiller. Don't make them like that any more!!!! Mine was actually built in Troy, New York and Dean Lithe approved!!!!
This one came from Troy also. I visited the factory in the early 80's to buy a squeezo and after seeing the tillers always wanted one. From what I understand mtd makes them now and the new ones are not as good.
You're right. Not nearly made as strong and I bet if you bought a new Troy Built today you wouldn't see vids like yours about it in 40 years, it would be long gone!!!!
See my comment above.... My dad used to get their publication (Troy-Bilt owner news), as well as other info (modifications to parts that were available, etc. I could swear that Dean Leith wrote all that info himself.... (After my dad gave the tiller to me over 20 years ago, I still have many of those issues and updates plus the plethora of documents that came with the tiller!)
Do you just fill the motor oil up to the thread lines? On the transmission oil, where was the plug? And how do you know how much to put it? I saw you check the level with the screwdriver and say it was low, but it how did you know? Thanks for the great vid!
I fill the oil up to the center of the plug threads. There is a plug on the side of the transmission that can be removed to check the full level. I just use a screwdriver and check it is at that level from the top . You just fill through the handle bolt hole. Thanks for watching.
Is that the "Horse" model? When I was a kid my Granddad bought one of them brand new and I'm going to be 41 in a couple weeks! I remember that it had some good compression- if you weren't careful when you were pulling it over you would snap your wrist something awful. It was a great tiller- I think that my uncle still uses it. Great videos, very informative. John
Yes it is the horse. It is at least 35 years old and still going strong. To bad troy bilt went out of business and sold out to mtd that cheapened the new ones down. Nothing like old cast iron equipment. Thanks for watching.
I just picked one up off Craigslist in the free section FCFS. I messaged the guy and offered him $20 to hold it for me because I live 47 miles away. 35 minutes later I was pushing it into the minivan. If I had known it was a Horse I would have offered him $50.
Those older original Troy Bilt tillers bring big bucks now....hard to find one that's decent for less than $1K ...heck of lot better than the junk they make now....
They are a tough machine. I got mine off Craigslist in the off-season 10 years ago for a very good price and it has been a trouble free work horse. Thanks for watching.
@@thomasgronek6469 Heh-heh... didn't lose their value (at least in dollar paid).. The one I own cost just under $1000 when my dad bought it new in 1981.
The factory in Troy,ny. is long gone ,bought out and now all products with the TROYBUILT name are cheap throw away crap.Hold on to that tiller ,it's worth it's weight in gold.
Yes you are correct, I live in upstate ny, MTD corp. now makes 95 % of the throwaway lawn and garden equip, including big box store john deere mowers,tractors,and blowers. I believe the company that gives you your moneys worth for quality now is DR EQUIPMENT in VERMONT.
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 Watch for a sale at Ace Hardware. Their Ace brand 30W detergent oil is $2.49/qt at their sale price and has the same API rating as the brand name product.
You got real lucky getting that wheel to simply slide off. 99% of the time it's frozen onto the shaft and a bitch to remove. To prevent this in the future remove both roll pins one at a time and just start tilling. Eventually the wheel will break loose. At that point clean up the shaft and wheel bore and apply some anti seeze and reinstall the pin. Now do the next one. This will help ensure easy wheel removal in the future.
I found if the machines are stored outside that can be a problem, but I have never had thst issue keeping it indoors. Blue Creeper is a easier option to loosen rusted together parts or to prevent that from happening and it is environmentally friendly. Thanks for watching.
I see that you're using high detergent 30 oil that is not the correct engine oil you should be using non-detergent 30 oil and you can purchase the oil at tractor supply. Thanks for your videos as always very well done
From what I have read modern detergent oils are better for small engines using ethanol fuel. The splash lube system just mixes up everything anyway so contamination never really settles out. I don't know which one is best, but I stick with oil with the highest rating. I think the lack of lead in the fuel causes most problems with these old engines. Thanks for watching my videos.
I got that years ago from harbor freight when they just sold through mail order catalogs. I think it was $6.99. Surprisingly it has worked many years with no problems. Thanks for watching.
what are you doing with my corvette? I'm sorry it's not mine I had 1965 327/375 horse. My girlfriend went to see jaws in 1975 and my Vette burn up in parking lot the cab melted and the bell housing too. Remember safety is number one on your homestead my friend.
They haven't bent or worn like the real ones so I am happy. Everything is from china anymore. I think they have gotten good at recycling steel and alum taking over the market. Thanks for watching.
If your wife finds out that you used her frying pan for the oil change you will be in big trouble. It sounds as if you got a good one when you bought that rotovator.
I see you have 140 wt GL5 gear oil. That is not the correct oil for the gear box. GL5 is NOT rated for brass gears ( Troy has brass gears). It’ll eat the brass. It should be GL4
I recently purchased a Horse tiller that based on the serial number was built between late 1975 and early 1976 that came with the original running Tecumseh HH60-6pm . I've replaced the wheel axel and tine seals that were leaking, rebuilt the carburetor with an original Tecumseh carb kit, added a fuel shut off valve and fuel filter, and replaced the tines. I looked at cheap aftermarket tines, but after some research, I decided on OEM spec KD tines which although are more expensive, I believe are worth the investment. Many aftermarket tines come with a 3 hole pattern, are shorter that OEM and made of lower quality metal. Yes, these tillers are built like tanks and made to last which is why I opted to pay more for OEM spec tines.
Those tines were very good. Switched to raised beds and sold it. Thanks for watching.
I didnt know that about the handle removal to fill the oil , thank you , mine has leaking rear axle seals I need to change and In the meantime keeping it full is a pain with hose and bottle lol just did my times the other day , new belts and now I'm just adjusting everything and nee fluids , to the garden for the first time in who knows how many years, great to see these old machines being used , theyvreally are awesome
That's the easiest way to fill it and the rear seals leaking is a common problem. Usually dirt grinds into the shaft damaging it so the seals dontlast like everything else on these machines. Thanks for watching.
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 right on , your video really helped thank you
Nice job. Those old Troy Bilts are tanks. Simple maintenance every so often, and they run forever. Thx for video!
They were made to last for generations. Thanks for watching.
Best video I've ever seen for somebody that doesn't do it everyday of the week, very understandable I haven't messed with a tillerr like this in 30 or 40+ years this one was laying in a field and we're putting it together. I'm going to have to buy some parts for it, two tires a carburetors are already bought, probably a couple hundred dollars and I'll have it running good Tillers I grew up with one of the best , and thanks for the tip about the oil type. I'll report back after I get it running.
Thanks. Good luck with it. They were built to last generations. Probably will need tine shaft seals also. Thanks for watching
I love these old machines and there’s a place in every garden for one when tractor is to big or to much trouble
I am finally done with mine. Switched to all raised beds and no longer use it. They are great machines. Thanks for watching.
I worked at troybilt in troy ny 79 to 85 i probably put those tines on i was 22 yrs old we used to make 380 per day
I lived in Poughkeepsie years ago and drove up there in 1982 to buy a squeezo. Made some wrong turns and there were some rough neighborhoods not far from the showroom. Sad companies like this couldn't survive the influx of cheap products from China that were junk.
I have a 80s troy built pony with no numbers on it i need to find the size drive belts it uses any clue thanks
@@anthonywilcox2284 troy bilt made odd size belts so unfortunately u have to buy from them
We own a 40+ year old Troy Bilt , HORSE .
We would never think about putting it away in that filthy condition .
After every use we hose it down and remove any dirt and foreign objects in the tines .
For winter storage we drain the tank and purge the carb of fuel.
I pull the spark plug and FOG the cylinder walls with oil ,to prevent rusting .
The following season ,the startup is flawless .
This one stays outside all summer. Full tank year round with stabilizer and that stuff comes out of the tines first use. Keeps on ticking. Thanks for watching.
I saw video on tines and those are a softer material. Most aren't made with the curves ground for fits. Great videos, thank you
They stood up great at half the price. Thanks for watching.
I have the same tiller, 7 hp Koehler, still runs great but my times are shot . Just ordered the same times as you. $56.00 Amazon, free shipping. They are around an inch shorter than the original but for a third of the price. So I decided like you to use them. We will see , should be fine.
Mine have stood up well. Thanks for watching.
Nice video. Power wash the unit for it sure makes working on them easier and makes your a lot cleaner
Power washing isn't good for these old machines. Just like mower decks where it damages the seals and gets water in vents. Thanks for watching.
Love how you make every difficult situation sound so simple and easy... It must just be me?!
Surprised me how easy it was to change the tines. Sometimes having the right tools can speed up a job. Thanks for watching.
not sure if you guys gives a shit but if you're stoned like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. I've been watching with my brother during the lockdown =)
@Dakari Odin Yup, I've been using instaflixxer for years myself :D
I used to do custom tilling back in the day. Now I’m doing good to till my garden.
I switched to raised beds and don't use it anymore.
Just scored the same one garage kept with all maintenance records and parts books the works
Great score. Thanks for watching.
I have pretty much the same tiller, mine's a 5HP Horse (Kohler iron), probably about 1980.
Burns a little oil now, but not bad.
I think they had 7hp also, some came with electric start.
I have that bumper system too. You can put a "dozer blade" on the front with that (I have one of those too).
Those machines last a long time.
Nice videos.
This one came with a plow also. I sold it on Craigslist to pay for part of the tiller. The engine lost spark and died the end of last season so I will have to look at it soon. Thanks for watching
Thank you. This was most helpful. Just picked one of these up and was wondering where to check the gearbox oil.
They are tough old machines. Thanks for watching.
So after looking at the gearbox fill I assume the rear tine box is lubricated from the same reservoir. It would appear to run through the drive shaft housing into the rear tine box.
Yes it's a hollow casting. Usually the rear tine seals go and cause the level to drop.
You are correct. Gear oil level was down and I noticed the rear seal was wet. I will need to keep an eye on it. May need to replace that gasket sooner than later. Thanks for the heads up.
Great info on tine replacement..my 7hp needs it and I wasn't sure which tines to get but it looks like the eBay ones will do fine. In my 71 years I've used multi vis in all types of air cooled engines with no trouble. In fact it gets down to 40F at night here even in summer so SAE30 is never a good idea regardless of what manuals say. I use just Supertech 10w-40 in summer equipment, 5W-30 in snowblowers..
I use whatever the engine manual calls for. Thanks for watching.
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 That's obviously the safe answer and probably how most folks roll. I hope someday you'll have time (and the thermometer) to chill SAE30 to 40°F and tell us what you see. Then heat SAE30 to 170°F and tell us what you see. Same thing with 10W40 and let us know any conclusions...thanks again for the tine video..liked subscribed..
I have a 6 HP Troy-Bilt horse my father purchased in 1981 with a tecumseh engine. It still runs well, starts in one or 2 pulls after being away in storage for the winter). It does smoke intermittently (seems to subside when the oil is actually LOW so it doesn't make sense...) and then the engine almost starts running to an idle until the smoke clears. Can't figure the issue, it's been that way since the last time my father (who has since passed away in 2014) some 20 years ago. I have LOADS of documentation on it - all supplied by Troy-Bilt that they generously gave you before being sold to MTD in the late 1990s and moved out of Troy NY.
Other than the smoke, it is nice when the tiller starts in 2 pulls. Of course, getting parts for it is getting tough. I won't let go of it.
I visited the original factory in troy to buy my Squeezo back in the 80s and they were doing well. Too bad companies like them were bought out and the manufacturing moved offshore. Do you turn the gas valve off when not using it? Sometimes the needle valve will leak gas into the cylinder if you don't an make it smoke for a while warming up. Thanks for watching.
John DeNicola might be piston oil ring. Just keep oil in it and let her work.
That was very informative and well done, you have a new subscriber👍
Thanks for watching and subbing.
This is an older video, but I was just trying to find out how those Amazon tines worked out for you. Need to change mine.
They worked good for a couple years. Now I have switched to raised beds and don't use it anymore. Thanks for watching.
Simple and concise....I LOVED IT !
Just like the Troy Bilt. Thanks for watching.
After doing lots of searching I found these tillers use a half size belts instead of dayco 422
Yes you need to get the ones made for your model.
Excellent video ! Thank you !
Thanks for watching.
Nice old tiller. We have an old Springfield that needs a new engine, belt, and new paint. It's not self propelled like yours is though but it's built like a tank.
Those machines were built to last a lifetime. Time for you to clean yours up and start a garden. Thanks for watching.
Need to see how belts are done
Look in your manual. Be sure to buy a matched set. Thanks for watching.
love your site,because you don`t have to set in front of the camera and talk about what you gonna do.or the 2 minute intro to your video
It is easier for me to do them with the overvoice. Some of the early videos I tried using the camera microphone and they were pretty bad. Thanks for watching my videos.
I just bought 2 1970's Troy-Bilt Horse Tillers with Electric Start for $150.00, and I bought a 1979 Pony for $125.00 in 2004. I buy every old Troy-Bilt I can.
You were lucky to find them. They are hard to find reasonably priced anymore. Thanks for watching.
i bought a used one owner troy built wood chipper from the late 80s about 8 years ago use 2-3 times a year and it still works great troy built was a great out door power equipment co.
I still have my troy bilt chipper but haven't used it lately. Great machine.
@jmaedl027 jmaedl You will LOVE it. See my comments above. Did it come with original documentation? They literally told you how to tear the whole thing down and fix/restore everything. (now finding parts is difficult since TroyBilt was sold to MTD and its original factory in Troy NY was closed.
Got some good treads on there. I had to replace mine. Custom tilling again.
Nothing wrong with the ones on it.
I just bought a used TB Horse 3 (Kohler 7 hp) circa 1984 at an auction... runs like top. No manual... 30 weight detergent engine oil, but 80/90 wt gear oil for the trans.?
Be sure the gear oil is compatible with brass. Not all 80/90 is. I use 30 wt in the engine because everything else runs right through it. Thanks for watching.
The sulphur /phosphorous blend in gl5 is higher than the gl4 gear oil... the higher sulphur / phosphorous blend sticks more aggressively to the yellow metals, and as a result, the metal peals off of the gears (instead of the additives)..This is not a high heat or high pressure situation, nor is it a 20,000 miles a year rototiller (maybe it is). for the price, go with the manufacturers oil (the price difference is insignificant). I am not recommending anything (gl4 or gl5), I am not selling anything, I am not getting paid. this is only my opinion. Thank you for a wonderful video. Happy Gardening to all !!!
The gl5 from Walmart says on it that it is safe for brass and copper. The manufacturer is long gone so that is not a option. It only sees about 5 hours a year use and this is the oil I have seen reccomended online if you can't find the gl1. Thanks for watching.
Without a doubt, most tillers only see about 5 hours a year, and since it isn't a high heat, high torque, high speed situation I guess that gl 4 or 5 are both quite ok. (the house is falling apart, but things like this turn me into a retentive mess (go figure)). Thanks again for a great video.
Most aftermarket times work just fine. There’s actually a measurement for that gap if you contact the factory.
Thanks for watching.
You went through the trans oil level check a little fast..for us slower guys without the Troy manual how to you do that again..?? is the level supposed to be at the plug behind the left tire, I'm guessing ya want the tiller level not resting on tines..thanks
I find the easiest way is remove the handle screw and put a screwdriver in there like a dipstick and then hold it up against the side to see if it's level with the plug. You can also remove the side plug and fill till it drips out. The manual shows exactly how to fill it. Thanks for watching.
Great Video. I made your relish a couples of years ago. Fantastic. I am down to one Jar. Where can I find that video again?
Was it the zucchini or corn relish? Just do a search on my channel for relish. Thanks for watching.
How have the aftermarket tines held up after 3 years use?
They are just as tough as the originals. Thanks for watching.
I have have gotten a lot of contradicting info on what gear oil to use in the horse gear case. This is what I found on Troy-Bilt's sight just in case it's helpful to anyone. Thanks
Tiller Transmission Lubricant
Sep 11, 2017•FAQ
Article Number
000002341
Problem
What lubricant should be used in the tiller transmission case?
Solution
In the past the rule was: For partial fill-ups (a few ounces or less) use SAE 140, SAE 85W-140 or SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 or GL-5. For full replacement use SAE 140 or SAE 85W-140 gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 only.
We have also found that 80W-90 oil with an API rating of GL-1 is acceptable for both partial and full replacement of tiller gear oils.
Really just has to be brass safe. Ariens makes a high pressure additive for auger gears that I have also tried. Thanks for watching.
There's a product that you can use to stop the seals from leaking in the transmission. Doublewide6 on UA-cam used it on a snow blower gear box and it works really well. Here is the link to buy it:
Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/292044457208
Link to doublewide6 video: ua-cam.com/video/3jjfFM9JuSk/v-deo.html
I have never used it but did buy some for the Cub Cadet 582 special we are restoring at the moment.
You have to be very careful about what you add to the oil with the brass gears in these tillers. Some additives will cause them to self destruct. Some day I will replace the seals. I think all the dirt ground in over 35 years could have damaged them.
Great tillers ..I'm about to change out all the seals on the tranny..Then it will be ready to go another 45 years.
They definitely are built to last. Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed your video. Thanks for the tip about the GL5. I have the same machine, though I think it has a 6 hp Kohler. Is there a way to fix the clutch adjustment so that I don't have to hold down on it to keep it tilling in heavy cutting? I have tried pretty well everything the book recommends.
Question: Why is the transmission oil GL5 rather than 75/90 gear oil?
Be sure that you have a matched set of belts. That will happen if one belt is larger and it's only really working with one. Thanks for watching.
I wonder if harbor freight has lifts like yours at 71 it's rougher on the knees
Sometimes old ones like mine show up on ebay or Craigslist.
Check ebay and Craigslist for old omes like mine.
Would it be a good idea to put a bit of blue loctite on the bolts?
That wouldn't hurt. Thanks for watching.
Out Horse wore out two sets of tones.
We took them down until they were straight.
Those are, or we're back then, very expensive.
We'd call yours only have way used up.
Once they start wearing the tiller doesn't work good so they must be replaced often. Thanks for watching.
I think you meant, have to use gl-4 so it won't eat the bronze but most gl-5 won't do that anymore. Make sure it says okay for yellow metals or bronze on the bottle.
Yes be sure to use a yellow metal safe oil. Thanks for watching.
I have one extremely close in age. I can't find any plates for manufacturers name or anything. Do you have any sources to find out year or anything else that might help
I think the serial number indicates manufacturing date. Do a search for that information. Thanks for watching.
Models older than around 1990 only use horse or pony as the model number. The serial number is on right top side of the transmission below the T handle
I've had a Troy Built since 1979. Great tiller. Don't make them like that any more!!!! Mine was actually built in Troy, New York and Dean Lithe approved!!!!
This one came from Troy also. I visited the factory in the early 80's to buy a squeezo and after seeing the tillers always wanted one. From what I understand mtd makes them now and the new ones are not as good.
You're right. Not nearly made as strong and I bet if you bought a new Troy Built today you wouldn't see vids like yours about it in 40 years, it would be long gone!!!!
See my comment above.... My dad used to get their publication (Troy-Bilt owner news), as well as other info (modifications to parts that were available, etc. I could swear that Dean Leith wrote all that info himself.... (After my dad gave the tiller to me over 20 years ago, I still have many of those issues and updates plus the plethora of documents that came with the tiller!)
Mine too troy ny
Take care of that tiller, it's an original and bulletproof like a ford 8N tractor.
That is a good one for sure.Thanks for watching.
Do you just fill the motor oil up to the thread lines? On the transmission oil, where was the plug? And how do you know how much to put it? I saw you check the level with the screwdriver and say it was low, but it how did you know? Thanks for the great vid!
I fill the oil up to the center of the plug threads. There is a plug on the side of the transmission that can be removed to check the full level. I just use a screwdriver and check it is at that level from the top . You just fill through the handle bolt hole. Thanks for watching.
2 drive belts? how did that work out?
Good. All the newer ones use the 2 belt system. Thanks for watching.
Is that the "Horse" model? When I was a kid my Granddad bought one of them brand new and I'm going to be 41 in a couple weeks! I remember that it had some good compression- if you weren't careful when you were pulling it over you would snap your wrist something awful. It was a great tiller- I think that my uncle still uses it. Great videos, very informative. John
Yes it is the horse. It is at least 35 years old and still going strong. To bad troy bilt went out of business and sold out to mtd that cheapened the new ones down. Nothing like old cast iron equipment. Thanks for watching.
I like to power wash my tiller first and then work on it,
This one has never been washed. Dirt and grease keeps it from leaking. Thanks for watching.
Will your 3/8 impact wrench loosen lug bolts? Thanks for the info
No, it is just good for small bolts up to about 3/8". Theydo make better ones that may work. Thanks for watching.
Anyone know what model tiller this is in the video? I have the same one but can not find a model number. Serial number is 368411
Mine is just called a horse. Sn is needed to determine year for parts. Thanks for watching.
Your vids are awesome !!
Just trying to show how easy it is to swap out tines on one of these. Hopefully it will help someone else out. Thanks for watching my videos.
I just picked one up off Craigslist in the free section FCFS. I messaged the guy and offered him $20 to hold it for me because I live 47 miles away. 35 minutes later I was pushing it into the minivan. If I had known it was a Horse I would have offered him $50.
Wow are you lucky. They are great machines. Thanks for watching.
One belt is missing. I ordered two and came here to learn from
Another’s experience to put it on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One belt is missing. I ordered two and came here to learn from
Another’s experience to put it on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One belt is missing. I ordered two and came here to learn from
Another’s experience to put it on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One belt is missing. I ordered two and came here to learn from
Another’s experience to put it on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
If those times give you problems custom parts inc. Has a great price on there's
They seem to have held up good so far. Thanks for watching
Those older original Troy Bilt tillers bring big bucks now....hard to find one that's decent for less than $1K ...heck of lot better than the junk they make now....
They are a tough machine. I got mine off Craigslist in the off-season 10 years ago for a very good price and it has been a trouble free work horse. Thanks for watching.
We dropped $1,000 for an old Troy Bilt,,,It was worth every penny.
@@thomasgronek6469 Heh-heh... didn't lose their value (at least in dollar paid).. The one I own cost just under $1000 when my dad bought it new in 1981.
The factory in Troy,ny. is long gone ,bought out and now all products with the TROYBUILT name are cheap throw away crap.Hold on to that tiller ,it's worth it's weight in gold.
These are amazing well built machines. I think mtd makes the new ones. Thanks for watching.
Made To Die makes about all the small engine machines today. They don't have to be built to last if you buy out the competition.
Yes you are correct, I live in upstate ny, MTD corp. now makes 95 % of the throwaway lawn and garden equip, including big box store john deere mowers,tractors,and blowers. I believe the company that gives you your moneys worth for quality now is DR EQUIPMENT in VERMONT.
😊
Thanks for watching.
Oil? What isn't expensive these days, Lol. Thanks for sharing
You can get full synthetic for less then the cost of sae 30. I keep getting sticker shock from out of control inflation. Thanks for watching.
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 Watch for a sale at Ace Hardware. Their Ace brand 30W detergent oil is $2.49/qt at their sale price and has the same API rating as the brand name product.
cool i will folow vids
Thanks. I don't use it much anymore since switching to raised beds. Thanks for watching.
You got real lucky getting that wheel to simply slide off. 99% of the time it's frozen onto the shaft and a bitch to remove. To prevent this in the future remove both roll pins one at a time and just start tilling. Eventually the wheel will break loose. At that point clean up the shaft and wheel bore and apply some anti seeze and reinstall the pin. Now do the next one. This will help ensure easy wheel removal in the future.
I found if the machines are stored outside that can be a problem, but I have never had thst issue keeping it indoors. Blue Creeper is a easier option to loosen rusted together parts or to prevent that from happening and it is environmentally friendly. Thanks for watching.
The lift is a cats meow. These tillers are ausumn
That lift has been very handy. Great tillers that don't beat you up.
I see that you're using high detergent 30 oil that is not the correct engine oil you should be using non-detergent 30 oil and you can purchase the oil at tractor supply. Thanks for your videos as always very well done
From what I have read modern detergent oils are better for small engines using ethanol fuel. The splash lube system just mixes up everything anyway so contamination never really settles out. I don't know which one is best, but I stick with oil with the highest rating. I think the lack of lead in the fuel causes most problems with these old engines. Thanks for watching my videos.
$6 or $7 for air wrench???
I got that years ago from harbor freight when they just sold through mail order catalogs. I think it was $6.99. Surprisingly it has worked many years with no problems. Thanks for watching.
I like it. I have 3/8" drive wrench with straight grip but I need one like that also.
And I thought that I was the only one still using air tools. Everyone seems to be heading to battery drivers lately.
what are you doing with my corvette? I'm sorry it's not mine I had 1965 327/375 horse. My girlfriend went to see jaws in 1975 and my Vette burn up in parking lot the cab melted and the bell housing too. Remember safety is number one on your homestead my friend.
I it is just a 1985 with 40k miles. Going to be sold soon to raise funds to buy a crate motor for my 66 Biscayne. Thanks for watching
Make sure the gear oil properties don't interact with the brass gears in the transmission!!!!.
Just my 2 cents worth
Yes, not all gear oils are yellow metal safe. I also add some high pressure brass worm gear additive made for snow blowers now. Thanks for watching.
Shure looks a handy dandy lift
It really is. Thanks for watching.
I think you bought China cheepies
They haven't bent or worn like the real ones so I am happy. Everything is from china anymore. I think they have gotten good at recycling steel and alum taking over the market. Thanks for watching.
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 that's good news
I agree because I bought USA ones and was 138.00 and HD like the oem ones
If your wife finds out that you used her frying pan for the oil change you will be in big trouble. It sounds as if you got a good one when you bought that rotovator.
I got all the old Teflon coated pans when we found out how bad that stuff was to use. I definitely got my moneys worth from it.
I see you have 140 wt GL5 gear oil. That is not the correct oil for the gear box. GL5 is NOT rated for brass gears ( Troy has brass gears). It’ll eat the brass.
It should be GL4
it uses buffered sulfur and is safe for brass. Thanks for watching.
@@unemployedredneckhillbilly2023 I stand corrected ( and sit)
l used to use gl1 with Ariens high pressure additive but that got expensive.
I’m on my second set and they haven’t bent. I thought so at first to.
They stand up good.