I have to disagree with you. I have a 2012 CRV. Yes I had a bad VTC actuator as well but I replaced it myself (not that difficult) for under $200 using Honda parts. Been over a year and the startup noise is still gone. Saying the entire car is bad for a $200 fix (if you do it yourself) is crazy. 160k miles I have had no other issues with my 2012 CRV, I’m the original owner as well.
@@spritemoney less than a day. I worked slow. Also, I didn’t take the camshafts off. There is one or two UA-cam videos showing the process without removing the cams. This method is better.
This is very much a “throw the baby out with bath water” approach in the video. People have got used to ultra reliable vehicles and complaining about problems with 10 year old cars with 100K+ miles on them. Any one old enough to remember cars from the 80s, they would literally disintegrate before 10 years of driving.
@@wcg66 Cars started to be reliable due to implementation of OBD in cars starting 95-96. It made manufactures make robust engines due to emission systems, fuel injection, etc. best of all it made it easy for your regular joe to repair their own cars.
I have a 2014 Crv Ex with the VTC actuator defect as well. I had it replaced at Honda, but it came back. I stopped caring about it. 185,000 miles later it still runs great. I regularly drive it 500 miles to school from my parents house. It starts every time, and none of my passengers comment on it.
I've been running with the VTC actuator sound for about 60k miles, it makes a little rattle when its cold, she fires right up and drives with zero issues.
The 2014 CR-V 1.6 i-DTEC Diesel (built in UK) was the best car I ever had. Solid, economical, reliable, brilliantly engineered. I put 232,000 km on it without any issues other than wear and tear. This car turned me into a HONDA fanboy (now in a European HR-V Hybrid). I have owned many cars from Toyota, Mitsubishi, BMW, Mercedes, Ford, Opel, Citroen, Peugeot, Buick... Nothing comes close to the quality of a HONDA, that is my experience.
Brilliant. I have a 2017 Civic with this engine (tweaked slightly differently I imagine) and fully intend to get a 2014 or so CRV. Really looking forward to getting it.
I have exactly this car, 1.6 idtec 160 biturbo. I have 371000km currently. I found this video because I need to change my cooling radiator, not a big problem. I just pass by here and say this car is reliable. Only one problem I had was P049b defect, Honda dealer said DPF was out of order, but it was false. This code comes because soot blocks the EGR B filter mounted just after the DPF. It has to be replaced and the soot comes not because of the DPF but because of defective injectors. Many cars with EGR B (permits not to use this bad ADBlue) have the same issue. Test your injectors. CRV is a very reliable and comfortable car.
As of January 2022, "A Honda VTC actuator class action lawsuit has been certified in two states (California and Illinois) after owners complained their vehicles rattled a few seconds on cold starts." "According to the plaintiffs, Honda injured them by failing to tell them about defective variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator 14310-R44-A01 in these models."
As a honda mechanic I have found out that the timing chain tensioner goes bad because they changed the position of the sprocket (vvt sprocket is on left side causing a lots of wear on the tensioner), but is an easy replacement.
I had to replace my belt and tensioner on a 2013. I asked Honda to help but they wouldn't. I didn't do it myself. Expensive. I could have left it but it was noisy.
I have the '14 CRV and it's been one of the best cars I've ever owned. Honestly, I mean if someone had one like mine and it ran the exact same way they'd be crazy to complain about it. Mine has 325,684 mi and going strong. It's made "The Noise" a little bit before 200k mi. I'd be happy with it for a daily driver car to beat up on.
We replaced the complete transmission at 134,000 miles in November 2019. Not sure if that included the VCT Actuator. Now at 265,000 it Definitely Still Makes That Noise and Definitely Burns Oil. We bought it from CarMax in November 2016 with 40,000. Any class action suit we’re in!
The rattle occurs because the locking pin is not held in place due to weak spring tension on startup. Noise can be fixed by replacing the spring only if your issue is truly the VTC. I believe that the rattle returns even when the part is replaced due to the spring tension getting weaker. YMMV.
@@daveengstrom9250 Not very far, valve cover comes off, 5 torx bolts on the cover of the VTC actuator and thats all - the spring can be removed and replaced. Hardest part is removing those torx bolts.
Wow... i had to argue my dealership for days to get them to even acknowledge the issue then finally fix it under warranty. Thank you for making this video!!
what year was your CRV and when did you get it fixed for free. Mine in 2014. I had this problem all along from the first year onwards. wondering if they would fix mine now. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks!
yes My daughters 2018 crv has more get up and go. What is your gas mileage? I don't get very much air out of my driver's side dash heater air vent. I guess I have to look at that.
240,000 miles on my 2013 Honda CRV notice this noise at 178,000 never replaced it and it still running strong besides little noise wen cold start...hit you guys up at 500,000 mile the 2013 crv model is bullet proof trust me I haven't had any problem with this car but minor stuff but it jus a Lil early morning rattle snake.
Yes I changed my oil 🛢 religiously ever 3000 mile fully synthetic and also I change my transmission fluid every 4th oil change yes I do all the services on my crv so it a Lil reasonable and I kno it done right but yes changed that oil oil oil!!!
Just upgraded to a 2014 crv ex from my 2004 crv which has been great up to 175k miles with no issues. The 2014 doesn't have the vct rattle... yet... but so far I really like it. I'm a mechanic and have seen a few stretched chains/ vct actuator problems on these gen 4s but still didn't deter me from buying one. Mine has 67k on it now so hopefully I have some time before I see this issue. Great informative video btw
Just go with a original Honda chain once it streches I replaced mine at 195,000 with an aftermarket and it broke it now at 216,000 I redid it with an original Honda everything
I had mine fail at 80K miles. I'm at 150K miles and get a slight rattle at startup now. Two points might interest you as a mechanic. First, I asked the head mechanic at the dealer about the possibility of any good will warranty? He told me that Honda won't tell you this, but they stopped offering any help with repairs as the repair is fairly complex, and you need to take your time and follow the procedure EXACTLY as you will have a repeated failure, if you just slam the new parts in. He claimed Honda grew tired of paying for the same good will repair repeatedly, since their techs would not do the work correctly. Second, I had all of my repairs done by a really talented independent tech. who took his time and did it right. I have 70K and three years since the repair, and it looks another chain and actuator will be required in the next year or two. I agree with the conclusions of Jack of all trades, there is a design flaw here that can't be corrected with any revised part swaps, or better maintenance.
I don’t know if this helps but… I bought a 2012 in September and this has happened to me on cold starts. Researched it and seen everything everyone else has. What has been working for me is “half starting” the car (for lack of a better term). Basically, turning the key like I’m starting the car without letting the car turn over and completely starting. I’ll do this 2-4 times (depending how cold it is) and then fully start the vehicle and no rattle whatsoever when I do this. My theory (which may not be valid because I’m no mechanic just a general interest in cars) is this will at least initiate the oil pump and getting some oil to the actuator. Again, not sure if that’s a real world solution but it has worked for me every morning cold start for the past two weeks. The wether here in the mornings are usually high teens and low to mid twenties for the past couple weeks and no issue. Before I did this it would happen every single morning like clockwork. Any feedback would be awesome!! Good luck everyone
My granddaughter's 2014 consumes oil and has the VTC rattle at start up with 162,000 miles. I had Hondas most of my life. I'm 76. Now I'm done with them and driving a Toyota.
I have a 2014 Honda CRV and the VTC actuator needed to be replaced at 41k. I did it myself using a Non OEM part looking for a more quality part. The procedure isn’t easy and you have to be careful not to slip the timing. I currently have 62 k on my Honda with no VTC actuator problems. Buy the way, some Toyotas and Fords have the same problems.
have owned our 2013 CRV for about 5 years. bought used with around 70K. It has always made this noise on cold starts and I had researched it and came to learn it was a known issue on this model with no fix. So, we pretty much ignore it. It does sound concerning though. Like you I've seen arguments both ways, it can cause damage, or it won't cause damage. Appreciated your video explaining the new part didn't solve the issue as I've been on the fence because it's a costly repair for non mechanically inclined people.
‘13. I was so thankful to come across your video. Went through the exact same process. The timing set up and VVT had to be replaced. Within 2000 miles the sound came back, but luckily the parts were still under warranty, and I took it in, they honored the warranty and replaced everything, but then said they would not honor that warranty, moving forward since they have done it twice. A year and a half later it’s back again So very frustrating since I bought a Honda needing it to run and run well for a very long time. And now I just live with the noise and pray it does not cause permanent damage to my engine since I cannot afford to keep replacing this over and over.
2012 crv....had the actuator replaced late fall 2021 at Saratoga Honda ...my cost of course....driven around 3k miles and it just started doing it again mid March 2022...erh! Thanks for the video and glad to know it is not just my hunk of junk that has the problem
I found that when below 45 degrees if I bump the starter a couple of times before starting there’s no rattle. Maybe the oil pump gets enough oil to the actuator to function correctly.
@@patrickthompson8913 and how does one "let the motor turn over without starting?" Is this something you can do from the driver's seat? Just turn the ignition on without starting it?
@@d.r.q.2032 it normally take a few seconds of the motor cranking to get it to start. I turn the key and maybe a second or 2 turn it back before it starts. Then just crank to start like normal. It is more wear and tear on the starter and somewhat the battery but it does keep it from rattling.
Our CR-V has had this noise since we bought it used. I never thought much of it since I originally thought that t was the direct injection system or similar. We’ve had the vehicle since 2018 with absolutely no issues other than noise on startup. I’m not dismissing the issue but the vehicle has been excellent in the four years we’ve had it. Even in your case, the only symptom you have is noise. It’s hardly left you stranded.
Does your crv have the serpentine belt and not the drive chain. I had a dry pulley. that may be your noise. A dry pulley shouldn't have happened either. I would report it to Honda America at their 900 number. I had low miles. 75,500 and just had 3 parts replaced. now it is quiet under the hood. Please share your experience.
8:45 The old saying - Ford, fix or repair daily LOL. My CR-V had VTC replaced under warranty. I went to the dealer with a printed copy of the exact service bulletin, where I bought the car brand new (that might help a bit). The service guy was nice to let mine sit for several days and finally he was able to replicate the VTC noise in a cold morning. Then, VTC was replace under warranty. I have that VTC noise came back just once on a cold winter morning in the past couple years.
Yes, the VTC actuator on my 2012 was changed at like 80K miles, the noise is coming back around 105K miles now so it does not fix the issue. Nothing wrong with the engine once it warms up but definitely annoying in the morning from a cold start. The AC compressor broke on as well, a common issue too on these engines. Other than that, been running fine still would have a Honda over any American product in my opinion.
yeah my 2013 does this and when we went go get it fixed they said there was no point bc it would come back which it did but i have had my car for years and it’s been doing that for years and my car still runs and everything perfectly fine
I know that our generation of crv’s suffer from tranny shuddering, which I bought my 2013 used with 40k miles and I currently have 64k rn after a year and some change, I get shuddering once in a while but I know it is a common thing
@@explorer2945 Get a transmission fluid flush every 30-40 K miles and it will run good for a year or two, then you have to repeat. it is cheaper than a new torque converter by thousands of. dollars. I've done this many times. It works. make sure your mechanic uses Honda Trans fluid.
@@Susan70003 I do the trans. service on my 2014 CRV every 15K miles. It cost about $30 for three quarts of Honda Oem Fluid, and it's a job that is faster and easier than changing the oil. I had a 2013 and now a 2014 with a total of close to 400K miles on them. The transmissions have been trouble free. I have had a collection of vehicles in the last 20-25 years that I have obsessively over-maintained, with everything from brake fluid flushes, to exceeding the "severe duty" maintenance schedule in every aspect. I have found that it really makes them last a hell of a lot longer, and with a lot fewer repairs.
Yeah Toyota is no saint, dashboard issues , accelerator recall, faulty AC systems which lead to mold/mildew smell, defective fuel pump recall and the absolute worse has to be the rubber oil cooler lines which will kill your engine if the hose rips. All brands can be problematic, some less than others. Best to get the model on the tail end of the generation.
The low IQ general public worships Toyota when they are no better then any other car. Isn’t it funny how Toyota said oil burning isn’t a big issue. Oh it definetly is…..and not something I would buy….
My wife purchased this car before we met with 90,xxx miles. 6 months into us dating I learned it was using 1 pint of oil every 1,000 miles and the entire time it had that horrible rattle. Thank goodness she bought it before we met and she just happened to purchase a bumper to bumper warranty so they replaced this vct actuator, timing chain tensioners, timing chain, “new updated pistons and rings,” front half shaft, and some other suspension part. I have always been a ford guy and have never had issues like this so not the best first impression of Honda. Especially with their reputation they are supposed to have. Now at 140,000 miles we need to replaced shocks and struts. Normal stuff but next car we buy I believe we are going to go back and find the lowest mile 2005 or 2006 crv.
Just add sea foam 4 oz to the engine and make 100 miles max 300 miles before the next oil change. i did, and it works my honda crv has 116 k miles and evry 1 k miles take 1 quter oil now after first time i added and changed oil i did 1800 miles no problem take about 1/3 quter.I will doit again after 3 k miles
I had the same rattling noises on cold start 2012 crv after 200,000 miles. I replaced the vtc actuator,timing chain,tensioner and guides. Currently, 240,000 miles still running good. One issue which could not fixed , vibration on drive at stop lights. Noticed engine rpm is below 600 rpm. If I turned on headlights and AC, vibration gone. Many owners have the issue which Honda can't fixed it. Would be glad to know if anyone has fixed. For your info, ChrisFix had a youtube video to replace vtc actuator.
@@Dorightby Yes indeed. Been super common on front wheel drive vehicles for half a century. When you are at the light, put the car in neutral and the vibration is gone. The cause is the worn out mount, which is no longer dampening the vibration caused by you holding the transmission back with the brakes. It's in drive and attempting to drive forward, you are just preventing forward motion. If the mounts are new, they do a great job of masking this virbration and noise. Once they are heading for decade old, and get a ton of miles, they no longer mask the harshness and vibration.
I've read a lot of 2014 crv owners like their cars. Higher miles on them and going good. Keep up the maintenance on them. American made cars are worse. Watch a few more gen 4 videos and read viewers comments. Owners share their tips.
At 45000 miles, our driver's side heater on our 2013 CRV stopped putting out heat while driving to Minnesota in February several years ago. Our son was able to get us in to a Honda dealer when we arrived that evening in St. Paul. The tech writer told us that there was a service bulletin on this. Evidently slag from the heater core casting process causes this. We had to rent a car from the Honda dealer so we could attend our grandson's music performance that evening. The next morning, we picked up our Honda after a $800 "flush"..I agree, Honda is no more the reliable manufacturer. We still have it, but only drive as a back up to our Mazda CX5..Honda lost a previous loyal customer after owning 11 Hondas...no more.
The 05 and 06 with timing chains and same engine dont have the accuator io tensioner issue..so why is that part better and can you use it instead of the one thats in the 13 - 16 models that suffer greatly with this issue.?
@@IAmBigKes The noise started around 50K, and the car is around 125K now. I just ignored the noise and it runs fine. Just flushed the heater core and the driver side vent heat is working again.
My girlfriend just bought a 2014 2 weeks ago. 103k base model. I was looking up videos on how to add fog lights to it and stumble across this one. She had been complaining about this noise with occasional cold starts, but I was thinking it was a hung up starter. Didn't tear into it to figure it out but now I have my answer. Luckily she got a 3-year extended warranty on it from the dealer. Now I just have to fight them on it I'm sure
Mine had noise on cold start up too. If you have a serpentine belt, not the chain, you may have a dry pulley. Cost me 500.00 to get mine repaired/replaced 3 parts and labor. The car sounds so much better. Not as expensive as a drive chain repair but still should not have happened. I only have 75,500 miles. Let us know how it goes for you. I am still going to complain to Honda about this.
I have to respectfully disagree with you. Those CRVs are the final years with 2.4 before heading to 1.5 turbo and CVT. Sure that bothered heck out and sure this car burns oils but this is probably something you can compare to 5th gen 4Runner from overall reliability perspective. You just change the oil every 3-5k miles and this CRV will last forever. This is truly the last most reliable engines CRV has to offer.
2014 CRV - I've got the same problem. I've found that if I bump it over once before I let it start cold this never happens. Not great, but at least I don't feel like I'm tearing my engine up. My used car dealer also gave me $500 toward fixing it when I explained the problem. I'm upset too, Honda needs to take responsibility for this. Not buying another Honda, but honestly I like the car and will drive it many more years.
Guys, my CRVs is not giving comfortable ride. Struts not leaking but im feeling every small bumbs on road .. should i change my structs? Its 10 years old now.
2012-2014 CRV also has serious issues with ac compressors and transmissions. The torque converters fail prematurely and there is a recall this year 2022 for the park -interlock on CRv and other Honda vehicles
All they need to do is make a heavy duty plunger and spring inside that vtc actuarial gear with time it weakens the spring so the plunger inside that gear won’t hold the oil pressure
As you may know, the Honda CRV's are very popular among those that tow them behind motorhomes (as I do) and they rarely ever have a problem when doing so. Our's is the 2014 EX fwd, and the odd time it will make the actuator sound, but I've just gotten use to it doing so now and again. Other than the noise, in the six years we've had it, I've changed out the battery (still has the stock Michelin tires) as it's now at just over 80K miles. My wife loves driving it, and it's not bad on fuel and a great little car for running around town, or out on the interstate I've found. I may try going to a little higher viscosity of oil, to see if it makes a difference, but if not will drop down to where it's suppose to be. I do all oil changes at 5K and haven't had to touch a thing since getting it, so I sure can't complain.
So, did you change oil viscosities? I had always understood that it's quite risky to do so with a Honda. From the way "Jack" describes the problem, it's not an oil issue, as the reason the noise quits after a second or two is because it takes that long for the oil pressure to rise enough to get everything working correctly. The flow of oil stops the rattle/squeal. I would think that a higher viscosity would make that problem worse, not better. ???
I bought my 14 in 2017.. haven’t had any issues with it except for the VTC. Our Honda dealer has been refusing to fix the VTC ever since we got it in 2017. Otherwise besides that it hasn’t had a single issue. Gave the car to my parents and I use their old 2008 crv currently.
I have a 2011 Honda Fit Sport with 105,000 miles and it has been making that grinding noise for a year now, but only when the temperature drops below 50 F. It has been an excellent car, getting 40 mpg, and except for this noise, I would like to keep it. I also have a 2012 CRV but it has only 12,000 miles, so I tend to drive it in winter time to spare the Fit. I also heard that newer Toyotas, like the RAV-4, have the same problem. Thanks for one of the most informative presentation on this topic.
I had the same VTC rattle, also had actuator replaced and noise started again. I was using Fram oil filters with Castrol Extended performance FS. I replaced with a K&N oil filter (same oil) and the problem seems to have gone away!
There has been some discussion that the anti drain back valve in the oil filter can help keep oil pressure and keep oil in the top of the engine, which may help keep it quiet. So there could be something to what you are experiencing.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone i went through this on another vehicle. Horrific start up rattle, and eventually it became clear that the longer it sat unused, the worse the rattle was. I stopped using Fram's basic filter, switched to a Purolator that literally cost a few dimes more, and it never rattled again.
@Optimal Health I still get the rattle though it's far less frequent and typically when the temperature is below 40. Say, once every week or two, or less, if its cold enough. I've never used Honda oil filters, so can't speak for those. The K&N works well enough I'm not sure I'd try anything else. I also use full synthetic Castrol Edge Full Synthetic Extended Performance for reference. Best.
There is some sense to that. The K&N filter is supposed to have better flow rate so oil would get up there quicker. This makes me wonder if 0W-16 oil would also make a difference but I doubt it.
What if you try to change the Oil to a Genuine Honda Oil semi synthethic and a little bit ticker viscocity? I had that little sound when I recently bought a CRV 2012, it had a very old oil, and when I changed the oil, and the oil stick was exactly in the second dot, the sound dessapeared, at the moment that is my experience 👍
I’m a Honda dealer mechanic and I can tell you the best Crv is the 07-09 years. When they first came out they had bunch of recalls and service bulletins , but Honda fixed them all . After that they were bulletproof(no burning oil or timing gear issues 😅)I still own a 09 model and very happy with it.
Is it practical to buy an 08 CRV for daily. One In looking at is MINT. 1 owner, zero rust, services regular. 13K. I bought a 15 yr old Honda once and it was just an endless black hole for money. It was in terrible shape, bought for 4K and probably put 8K in bf it died 2 yrs later. I can’t see value in cars 15 + yrs old
Yes, indeed. The dealer told me this is a common fault of these year models. My 2014 started this hideous sound, when it gets extremely cold ( it certainly can in Iowa). It was still under warranty, thus I pleaded the case with the dealer, and they generously replaced it. So Far, with 50k , and three years it has not returned. Good luck with yours. And I will be definitely switching to either Subaru or Toyota next car time.
Be careful with Subaru to if it has a timing chain. Pieces are breaking off getting into engine. I found a mint condition used Subaru Forester, new drive belt, 4 brand new tires, ect. I really wanted this vehicle. 2012 model ,1 owner, dilagent on upkeep. Only had 114,000 miles but, at 100,000 miles the timing belt was due to be changed. And they would not allow me to take to my mechanic for a quick check. I got ripped off on my last last vehicle that needed $3,400 in repairs. This time being 72 and very cautious I just requested my mechanic to check. They said no. So I walked away. I'm so disappointed. Trying to buy a car now that doesn't have major issues is difficult and the prices for used cars are ridiculous, even with 150,000 miles. I research and very few models that aren't having problems. Be careful. Still looking.🙄
Our 2014 does it. We just bought it and it has 85k on it. It's super annoying. That said, after researching the issue, I'm not convinced it's damaging the timing components. I know someone with the identical car as ours with 180k on it and it rattles and she said it always has. She ignores it and just keeps up on maintenance and checks her oil. I look at it like this. How many of these engines has Honda sold? How often do you hear about them blowing up? Lot's of complaints about the rattle yes but how often do we hear of total failure? I don't know. We bought an extended warranty on ours when we bought it so if it does crap out it's covered anyway. I do agree though, Honda should step up and own this.
Total failure is unlikely but more common is that the timing chain starts to stretch from the extra tension that this causes and eventually it stretches out of tolerance and you start having timing problems, check engine light, etc. Then a full timing chain, guides, tensioner and VCT is required to the tune of almost $2,000. It's an engineering flaw that they refuse to own.
I'll agree to disagree. My 2012 CRV had this issue too. I bought it certified pre-owned with about 35k miles. It did develop the rattle after 40k miles, I don't remember the specific miles. Honda covered it under warranty and it hasn't showed up since, it now has 130K miles. Very slick of Honda to issue a TSB and not a recall. If this issue can damage the engine long term, it should be a recall. My CRV also developed a shudder/vibration around 45k miles that was felt throughout the whole vehicle. It happened when shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear and between 25-35 MPH. It ended up needing the torque converter to be replaced, also luckily under warranty. If I had to pay for these repairs out of pocket I would have been royally pissed. I got lucky. Other than these issues and wear and tear items, I haven't had to replace or repair any other super expensive parts. So yes, I feel that these are engineering issues that shouldn't happen to a Honda vehicle because of their reliability reputation. It could be worse, just look at Hyundai with their 2.4L theta engines, sheesh what s-show. Thanks for the video!
@@arrogantott my friend was able to fix this issue in his 2013 crv with a transmission fluid change, this is the cheapest option to go with first. He used Honda transmission fluid.
My wife’s 2014 had the shudder issue, and since it had a rebuilt title due to having been wrecked, I chased this problem for almost two years. I finally found some UA-cam videos when I was getting ready to sell it and they said to change the transmission fluid (really easy to do by the way) and if that didn’t fix it then replace the torque converter. I changed the fluid and it’s smooth as butter now.
My 2011 went 315k km then I changed the vtc actuator and timing chain and tensioner... It's been good since the timing cover had a bit of a leak and I ran it a bit low on oil and the vtc actutor went so when I did it I did the timing chain and VTC actuator but since then the car has been running perfectly 315k km is like 200k miles I'm pretty happy with it
Make sure that your VVT Solenoid is always cleaned. I heard that this could be the actual faulty design starving the VTC actuator and than making the lock pin's spring weak and unable to lock back in when the engine is stopped. Please let me know.
2014 Honda...just thought I'd ask here, after reading the comments, our car's headlights are looking terrible from the UV sun rays, and I thought I'd ask what you fella's/gals might be using to get them looking clear again? Thanks.
I used 3M Headlight Restoration Kit and it's lasted pretty good for about 2 years. But about time to do it again. The problem with replacement is the bumper cover has to be removed or pulled back enough to get in there. Unless there is a trick I don't know about.
I have a 2010 civ and the rattle just started. came across this video looking into it. I started adding 20% Lucas to the oil and no more rattle. Suggested by my 80 year old mechanic.
Try changing the trans fluid a few times. You might get lucky. They have a known torque converter problem. If you catch it early fluid changes will fix it.
I just bought a 2014 crv 2 days ago and noticed a similar noise about every 5th time I start it...thought it was the starter. Shouldn't there be a code if it's a VCT?
I have a 2014, 61K miles, its been doing this for a good 20K+ miles now, Noise present even during summer temps. Dealer first denied noticing sound, I went back with research and the TSB, so they acknowledged. But advise was to leave it as is because even after replacing, the issue comes back, as is demonstrated in this video. People turn around and look like whats wrong with your car ? Thats embarrassing!
Totally agree with you. I just encountered this issue on a 2014 CRV with only 70k miles. Needs a new timing chain too, which shouldn’t be happening this soon. This is becoming a well-documented issue, as demonstrated by the successful lawsuits in California and Illinois. You are absolutely correct in giving this generation a “Don’t buy” label. Sure there are stories of some folks avoiding the problem and praising their reliability: you can win Russian roulette 5 out of 6 times-but I’m still going to recommend “Don’t play this game.”
I get a lot of flack for stating the truth about this generation of CRV. We own one and my wife loves it, but it is what it is. I've had all of the problems this generation is known for with only 100,000 miles on the clock and routine maintenance
I had the same noise from my 2012 CR-V. I replaced VTC myself at 121K but went to Rock Auto for a non-OEM (I was told the OEM replacement would have the same problem in time). I have 165K on it - quiet even in -20F temps. Good luck.
I own a 2014 CR-V with 164K miles on it. I've brought my vehicle into the dealer several times for this issue. Had the VTC actuator replaced a few years ago. It started happening again shortly after it was replaced. Took it back to the dealer several times, but it would never make the noise when they had it. One time when I took it in for another issue I was having that required me to ride with a mechanic to show him the problem, I asked him about the noise. He said he knew exactly what it was and that I could get it fixed, but it would only happen again in a little while because the part is defective. I decided to leave it be. Finally, in May of 2021, it got so bad that I had to have the timing chain and everything replaced. To make matters worse, due to parts production shortages and delivery delays caused by Covid, I had to wait about two months for the parts to come in. Parts and labor costs about $1800. Not even a year later, it's happening again!! Of course, it's just out of the 12K mile warranty on the work. I'm at the dealership right now and they say I have two very bad oil leaks. Mind you, I rarely go out much since the pandemic started and there's no oil spot under my carport. Maybe it's just because I own a 2014, but from all the comments I've read, this issue seems to be more prevalent in the 2014 model. I can't afford to shell out that much money again right now. This is my fourth Honda, but it just might be my LAST HONDA!
My '14 is in the shop now for timing chain/tensioner $1800. Also, my mechanic told me that these cars burn oil more than other models so I started adding oil in between changes. Fingers crossed that's all it needs for awhile. I do love this car!
I have owned 4 CR-Vs. ‘99 that I had 144K miles before it was totaled from a rear end crash. No issues. ‘07 that I sold to a friend at 150K and now has 210K. No major issues. Now have ‘13 with 120K and a ‘14 with 60K. Only problem was the a/c that the compressor had to be replaced. I live in Fl and it’s run nearly every day of the year. When I decide to sell my ‘13 at 150-160K I will be purchasing another CR-V.
My daughter likes her 2018. Her inlaws just bought a crv because they like my daughters. I bought her 2013 crv when she bought the 2018. Her 2018 has more pickup.
Change you’re maximum 5000 miles or every 12 months regardless of miles and probably won’t have this problem. My 12 accord 2.4 has 68K with ZERO problems. Plus it get 35 MPG on road and 25 around town. Another thing if you have oil changed by dealer or anywhere else don’t mean they are doing right or good job? Alway follow up before you drive way. Best to do it yourself if you have the skills. Who drive’s around low on oil? Idiots that’s who. Then wonder why they have problems.
This is the first engine that I have had that uses 0W-20 oil. Has anyone tried using a higher viscosity oil to mediate this problem? This may cause more oil to stay in the upper engine. This sound started on my 2012 CRV at about 120,000 miles. I am at now at 145,000 miles, and this occurs on every cold engine start-up, even in the summer.
Has anyone tried Liqui Moly to try to quiet this down? I've seen the video on the spring tensioner inside the VCT gear, itself, but I'm wondering if the spring is better off getting replaced?
I changed my actuator out with Honda also. A year later …same noise. Found out the recommended 4.2 qt oil fill is not enough. I’ve been putting in 5 quarts, along with that I turn off the A/C and Econ button when starting the car and I haven’t heard the problem since.
We purchased a used 2012 CRV in 2017 with 49K miles. Long story short, we had this same issue, the dealer fixed it once, the problem came back, it wouldn't do this at the dealer when left with them, and it still occasionally does this. We currently have 144k miles on the car. We found that parking the car on our driveway with the front end sloping downward greatly reduces this issue, probably because oil is kept in the actuator better in this position. In 2022, we kept our CRV but bought a new RAV4. We have owned Honda cars since 1995, and Honda motorcycles since 1974, we never bought anything else during that time. The 2012 actuator issue was a factor in choosing the RAV4, but other issues were that Honda engines are now smaller turbo charged engines, and Honda decided to use CVTs (constant velocity transmissions). After decades of owning Honda vehicles, we came to the conclusion that the engineers were no longer making engineering decisions for the company, and the decisions in design appeared to be made now by the accountants. That's just an opinion, our opinion. I really hope that someone at Honda reads this post.
Thanks for your video on this issue! Very well done. Sidebar: What kind of sound microphone system did you use? I’d like to use the same thing because your sound comes though very clear and little background noise. Thanks! Tim
Thank you for this valuable inf. My 2014 crv Honda have that noise, they told me is natural sound of the engine. Now i know. Is hard to find a honest knowledgeable mechanic.
@@njsongwriter Every 5000 miles. The box says go 3000. But the oil is so high quality it can go further. Just dont push it. But yea, i dont hear it anymore..
thanks for the info. i have the same problem with my 13 CR-v Awd, where do i need to go to see if a recall on this car, i changed fluid in front and back, no fix, now on top there is a shudder at 25 mph in slow acceleration then it goes away, any suggestions? thank, keep up with videos.
Did you drain and fill transmission fluid multiple times? Usually takes 3 times with some driving in between to see if shudder goes away. If it doesnt most likely your torque converter is shot.
I have a friend who has a 2014 CRV with 112,000 miles and broke down on her. Dealership is saying engine is bad . Could this problem possibly have caused it? She's thinking about having a used engine installed but now that I seen this I don't know if she should. Sounds like same thing could happen all over again . Thanks for the video I hadn't seen this anywhere else.
As 2014 Honda CRV LX owner, I absolutely agree with the author of the video. Just avoid it. Get newer. I fixed mine under warranty at the dealer twice. I pick up the car and it is still rattling. Now over 80k miles I'm really not sure if I want to push my luck or just get rid of it while it's more or less sellable.
I’m having the same issue, but I’m also dealing with my 2013 CRV with burning oil. I don’t know how that happens? No dripping …no smoking …just goes dry unless I’m putting oil in every 1000 miles! The dealership suggestion was check the oil every 1000 miles🥺
It's got to be burning it if it isn't leaking it. So either a valve problem or a ring problem. Or the easy thing to try first is change your PCV valve. A stuck open valve will go through oil quick.
I have similar issues with my 2008 accord. They fixed it once under warranty after multiple request, and the problem re-surface again soon after, just like you. But, this time, I was already outside warranty period. I decided to leave it as is but it appears over time the problem gets worse for me and the engine started burning oil. Like you, Honda never admit anything wrong with the engine, but I found out about the service bulletin too at the time. Not sure if I am going to fix it or just sell it at this point. I am weighing my option. I bought my car new back then. I am in the midwest area.
I haven't had time to go through all the comments, but does this have anything to do with the CR-Vs slowly losing oil too? I've seen the oil issue on a 2004 and a 2012? The 2004 eventually blew a piston and we had a used 50k engine put in it and it no longer uses oil. One of my kids owns the 2012 now and he still has to put a quart of oil in every couple thousand miles.
I have a 2013 Honda accord and I hear the same noise at times. When I do hear it, I just top off my oil level and it stops. But I did take it to Honda, and it kinda got swept under the rug because of course it was t making the sound when I took it
I think the noise you are hearing is because your engine has "variable valve timing", the rattle at the start of engine is the time it's taking for the oil to fill up the inside cavity of camshaft pulley with the teeth on the outside. Theoretically you could take that pulley and weld it in mid point position, your engine will not be VVT any more but the rattle will be gone, however the check engine light might come on, the computer might think there is something wrong. If you know how to replace the timing chain, you can do this job, it's worth a try, get a used camshaft from junkyard to weld.
Most of Honda problem is after the 2011 models the parts are made here in the US by a different supplier. Honda used to get there parts from Japan but after the earthquake it was cheaper to get their parts here. They do stress quality but the parts are shady.
I have to disagree with you. I have a 2012 CRV. Yes I had a bad VTC actuator as well but I replaced it myself (not that difficult) for under $200 using Honda parts. Been over a year and the startup noise is still gone. Saying the entire car is bad for a $200 fix (if you do it yourself) is crazy. 160k miles I have had no other issues with my 2012 CRV, I’m the original owner as well.
How long did it take you to do it yourself?
@@spritemoney less than a day. I worked slow. Also, I didn’t take the camshafts off. There is one or two UA-cam videos showing the process without removing the cams. This method is better.
This is very much a “throw the baby out with bath water” approach in the video. People have got used to ultra reliable vehicles and complaining about problems with 10 year old cars with 100K+ miles on them. Any one old enough to remember cars from the 80s, they would literally disintegrate before 10 years of driving.
@@wcg66 Cars started to be reliable due to implementation of OBD in cars starting 95-96. It made manufactures make robust engines due to emission systems, fuel injection, etc. best of all it made it easy for your regular joe to repair their own cars.
He nailed it with this video. Honda has gone downhill. Some have problems maybe others don’t staying away from Honda
I have a 2014 Crv Ex with the VTC actuator defect as well. I had it replaced at Honda, but it came back. I stopped caring about it. 185,000 miles later it still runs great. I regularly drive it 500 miles to school from my parents house. It starts every time, and none of my passengers comment on it.
Change oil every 6 months and yiu get another 200K out of it.
Same. Sent to service. Came back with the same rattle
I've been running with the VTC actuator sound for about 60k miles, it makes a little rattle when its cold, she fires right up and drives with zero issues.
This 100%..
The VTC Actuator rattle might be annoying from time to time but it doesn't matter.
The 2014 CR-V 1.6 i-DTEC Diesel (built in UK) was the best car I ever had. Solid, economical, reliable, brilliantly engineered. I put 232,000 km on it without any issues other than wear and tear. This car turned me into a HONDA fanboy (now in a European HR-V Hybrid). I have owned many cars from Toyota, Mitsubishi, BMW, Mercedes, Ford, Opel, Citroen, Peugeot, Buick... Nothing comes close to the quality of a HONDA, that is my experience.
No honda diesels in north america
totally different engine! do you actually hear what he has to say ?
Brilliant. I have a 2017 Civic with this engine (tweaked slightly differently I imagine) and fully intend to get a 2014 or so CRV. Really looking forward to getting it.
Agree!
I have exactly this car, 1.6 idtec 160 biturbo.
I have 371000km currently.
I found this video because I need to change my cooling radiator, not a big problem.
I just pass by here and say this car is reliable.
Only one problem I had was P049b defect, Honda dealer said DPF was out of order, but it was false. This code comes because soot blocks the EGR B filter mounted just after the DPF. It has to be replaced and the soot comes not because of the DPF but because of defective injectors. Many cars with EGR B (permits not to use this bad ADBlue) have the same issue. Test your injectors.
CRV is a very reliable and comfortable car.
As of January 2022, "A Honda VTC actuator class action lawsuit has been certified in two states (California and Illinois) after owners complained their vehicles rattled a few seconds on cold starts." "According to the plaintiffs, Honda injured them by failing to tell them about defective variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator 14310-R44-A01 in these models."
Where can we get more info on this? I’m in California and this is an issue I’m having
I just paid Honda $1900.00
. getting this done. VTC Actuator.🥴🥴
C’monnn Virginia!!!!
Cmonn ohio
any info on getting in on the ILL. suit? what is the warranty on the VTC any way?
As a honda mechanic I have found out that the timing chain tensioner goes bad because they changed the position of the sprocket (vvt sprocket is on left side causing a lots of wear on the tensioner), but is an easy replacement.
Agreed. This happened to me on my 2016. The belt tension was bad . Replaced it and never heard this rattle noise again
I had to replace my belt and tensioner on a 2013. I asked Honda to help but they wouldn't. I didn't do it myself. Expensive. I could have left it but it was noisy.
What has your gas mileage been? Which engine air filter to you put in?
I have the '14 CRV and it's been one of the best cars I've ever owned. Honestly, I mean if someone had one like mine and it ran the exact same way they'd be crazy to complain about it. Mine has 325,684 mi and going strong. It's made "The Noise" a little bit before 200k mi. I'd be happy with it for a daily driver car to beat up on.
How many miles did it have when you bought it?
I own a 14 CRV I don’t have any complaints about it. I’m happy with my car. 👍🏻
Wow, our ‘14 CRV has just over 80k on it, and is an excellent vehicle indeed!
I agree with you. 😊
I have a 2015 CRV and over 140k on it alls I've had to do is replace the starter so far.
We replaced the complete transmission at 134,000 miles in November 2019. Not sure if that included the VCT Actuator. Now at 265,000 it Definitely Still Makes That Noise and Definitely Burns Oil. We bought it from CarMax in November 2016 with 40,000.
Any class action suit we’re in!
Best car I have ever had. Had it since new, now 10 years old, 150000 miles on the clock without any issues.
i have a 2012 crv with 140k miles and never getting mechanical problems it seems good to me
The rattle occurs because the locking pin is not held in place due to weak spring tension on startup. Noise can be fixed by replacing the spring only if your issue is truly the VTC. I believe that the rattle returns even when the part is replaced due to the spring tension getting weaker. YMMV.
That's what I read also. The noise comes back.
Any way we can add a stiffer spring?
How far does one have to dig into the engine to fix this spring?
@@daveengstrom9250 Not very far, valve cover comes off, 5 torx bolts on the cover of the VTC actuator and thats all - the spring can be removed and replaced. Hardest part is removing those torx bolts.
Wow... i had to argue my dealership for days to get them to even acknowledge the issue then finally fix it under warranty. Thank you for making this video!!
what year was your CRV and when did you get it fixed for free. Mine in 2014. I had this problem all along from the first year onwards. wondering if they would fix mine now. Any info will be appreciated. Thanks!
@@cookmaster3626 did you get any info on this? I have the same problem.
Been using CRV 2013, 1st owner, no issues at all. It's a little underpowered if compared to my other cars, but it's not a big issue.
Me too I have a twenty thirteen and I have no problems with the theater
@@jimparsons61 What gas mileage are you getting on yours? I have the same car. What engine air filter do you put in?
yes My daughters 2018 crv has more get up and go. What is your gas mileage? I don't get very much air out of my driver's side dash heater air vent. I guess I have to look at that.
240,000 miles on my 2013 Honda CRV notice this noise at 178,000 never replaced it and it still running strong besides little noise wen cold start...hit you guys up at 500,000 mile the 2013 crv model is bullet proof trust me I haven't had any problem with this car but minor stuff but it jus a Lil early morning rattle snake.
Glad to hear you are having good luck with your CRV.
Did you change oil more often or any other maintenance tips to share ?
Yes I changed my oil 🛢 religiously ever 3000 mile fully synthetic and also I change my transmission fluid every 4th oil change yes I do all the services on my crv so it a Lil reasonable and I kno it done right but yes changed that oil oil oil!!!
@@williamspear7803 Thank you!
@@williamspear7803
Wow. Every 3,000 miles. I wonder if it would have been no different with every 5,000 miles? Us there a particular brand you used?
Just upgraded to a 2014 crv ex from my 2004 crv which has been great up to 175k miles with no issues. The 2014 doesn't have the vct rattle... yet... but so far I really like it. I'm a mechanic and have seen a few stretched chains/ vct actuator problems on these gen 4s but still didn't deter me from buying one. Mine has 67k on it now so hopefully I have some time before I see this issue. Great informative video btw
Just go with a original Honda chain once it streches I replaced mine at 195,000 with an aftermarket and it broke it now at 216,000 I redid it with an original Honda everything
I had mine fail at 80K miles. I'm at 150K miles and get a slight rattle at startup now. Two points might interest you as a mechanic. First, I asked the head mechanic at the dealer about the possibility of any good will warranty? He told me that Honda won't tell you this, but they stopped offering any help with repairs as the repair is fairly complex, and you need to take your time and follow the procedure EXACTLY as you will have a repeated failure, if you just slam the new parts in. He claimed Honda grew tired of paying for the same good will repair repeatedly, since their techs would not do the work correctly. Second, I had all of my repairs done by a really talented independent tech. who took his time and did it right. I have 70K and three years since the repair, and it looks another chain and actuator will be required in the next year or two. I agree with the conclusions of Jack of all trades, there is a design flaw here that can't be corrected with any revised part swaps, or better maintenance.
I don’t know if this helps but… I bought a 2012 in September and this has happened to me on cold starts. Researched it and seen everything everyone else has. What has been working for me is “half starting” the car (for lack of a better term). Basically, turning the key like I’m starting the car without letting the car turn over and completely starting. I’ll do this 2-4 times (depending how cold it is) and then fully start the vehicle and no rattle whatsoever when I do this. My theory (which may not be valid because I’m no mechanic just a general interest in cars) is this will at least initiate the oil pump and getting some oil to the actuator. Again, not sure if that’s a real world solution but it has worked for me every morning cold start for the past two weeks. The wether here in the mornings are usually high teens and low to mid twenties for the past couple weeks and no issue. Before I did this it would happen every single morning like clockwork. Any feedback would be awesome!! Good luck everyone
My granddaughter's 2014 consumes oil and has the VTC rattle at start up with 162,000 miles. I had Hondas most of my life. I'm 76. Now I'm done with them and driving a Toyota.
@@kerrykerry5778 so do you suggest not buying one of these? I'm looking at buying a used 2014 CRV-EX right now with 101K but now reconsidering....
I have been using this 2013 model for the past 10 yrs no issues. Depends how you drive n maintain the car just my personal experience.
Guess you dont know about the 35$ sping kit that takes maybe 45muns to install that fixs this.
I do know about it now. Thanks
@@JackofAllMasterofNone where do you get this $35 spring kit?
I have a 2014 Honda CRV and the VTC actuator needed to be replaced at 41k. I did it myself using a Non OEM part looking for a more quality part. The procedure isn’t easy and you have to be careful not to slip the timing. I currently have 62 k on my Honda with no VTC actuator problems. Buy the way, some Toyotas and Fords have the same problems.
Have you seen the Chrisfix video on changing the vtc actuator? I watched it and am thinking of doing it myself to my mom's car
have owned our 2013 CRV for about 5 years. bought used with around 70K. It has always made this noise on cold starts and I had researched it and came to learn it was a known issue on this model with no fix. So, we pretty much ignore it. It does sound concerning though. Like you I've seen arguments both ways, it can cause damage, or it won't cause damage. Appreciated your video explaining the new part didn't solve the issue as I've been on the fence because it's a costly repair for non mechanically inclined people.
‘13. I was so thankful to come across your video. Went through the exact same process. The timing set up and VVT had to be replaced. Within 2000 miles the sound came back, but luckily the parts were still under warranty, and I took it in, they honored the warranty and replaced everything, but then said they would not honor that warranty, moving forward since they have done it twice. A year and a half later it’s back again So very frustrating since I bought a Honda needing it to run and run well for a very long time. And now I just live with the noise and pray it does not cause permanent damage to my engine since I cannot afford to keep replacing this over and over.
2012 crv....had the actuator replaced late fall 2021 at Saratoga Honda ...my cost of course....driven around 3k miles and it just started doing it again mid March 2022...erh! Thanks for the video and glad to know it is not just my hunk of junk that has the problem
I have also a 2012, replaced the VTC Actuator like 60k miles ago, still working fine.
I found that when below 45 degrees if I bump the starter a couple of times before starting there’s no rattle. Maybe the oil pump gets enough oil to the actuator to function correctly.
That's exactly what I do. Might get one or two rattles though the winter.
What does it meant to bump the starter?
@@husain6431 let the motor turn over with out starting. It don't take very long maybe a second or 2. After that crank and start like normal.
@@patrickthompson8913 and how does one "let the motor turn over without starting?" Is this something you can do from the driver's seat? Just turn the ignition on without starting it?
@@d.r.q.2032 it normally take a few seconds of the motor cranking to get it to start. I turn the key and maybe a second or 2 turn it back before it starts. Then just crank to start like normal. It is more wear and tear on the starter and somewhat the battery but it does keep it from rattling.
Our CR-V has had this noise since we bought it used. I never thought much of it since I originally thought that t was the direct injection system or similar. We’ve had the vehicle since 2018 with absolutely no issues other than noise on startup. I’m not dismissing the issue but the vehicle has been excellent in the four years we’ve had it. Even in your case, the only symptom you have is noise. It’s hardly left you stranded.
Does your crv have the serpentine belt and not the drive chain. I had a dry pulley. that may be your noise. A dry pulley shouldn't have happened either. I would report it to Honda America at their 900 number. I had low miles. 75,500 and just had 3 parts replaced. now it is quiet under the hood. Please share your experience.
8:45 The old saying - Ford, fix or repair daily LOL. My CR-V had VTC replaced under warranty. I went to the dealer with a printed copy of the exact service bulletin, where I bought the car brand new (that might help a bit). The service guy was nice to let mine sit for several days and finally he was able to replicate the VTC noise in a cold morning. Then, VTC was replace under warranty. I have that VTC noise came back just once on a cold winter morning in the past couple years.
Yes, the VTC actuator on my 2012 was changed at like 80K miles, the noise is coming back around 105K miles now so it does not fix the issue. Nothing wrong with the engine once it warms up but definitely annoying in the morning from a cold start. The AC compressor broke on as well, a common issue too on these engines. Other than that, been running fine still would have a Honda over any American product in my opinion.
yeah my 2013 does this and when we went go get it fixed they said there was no point bc it would come back which it did but i have had my car for years and it’s been doing that for years and my car still runs and everything perfectly fine
I know that our generation of crv’s suffer from tranny shuddering, which I bought my 2013 used with 40k miles and I currently have 64k rn after a year and some change, I get shuddering once in a while but I know it is a common thing
@@explorer2945 change the trans oil every 30,000. Somethings shedding grit upline of trans. Watch some more videos. You'll find the video.
@@explorer2945 Get a transmission fluid flush every 30-40 K miles and it will run good for a year or two, then you have to repeat. it is cheaper than a new torque converter by thousands of. dollars. I've done this many times. It works. make sure your mechanic uses Honda Trans fluid.
@@Susan70003 I do the trans. service on my 2014 CRV every 15K miles. It cost about $30 for three quarts of Honda Oem Fluid, and it's a job that is faster and easier than changing the oil. I had a 2013 and now a 2014 with a total of close to 400K miles on them. The transmissions have been trouble free. I have had a collection of vehicles in the last 20-25 years that I have obsessively over-maintained, with everything from brake fluid flushes, to exceeding the "severe duty" maintenance schedule in every aspect. I have found that it really makes them last a hell of a lot longer, and with a lot fewer repairs.
The Toyota 3.5 V6 and the piston rings on the 2.4 2.5 engines proves your statement about Toyota wrong.
The V6 has the exact same problem....
Yeah Toyota is no saint, dashboard issues , accelerator recall, faulty AC systems which lead to mold/mildew smell, defective fuel pump recall and the absolute worse has to be the rubber oil cooler lines which will kill your engine if the hose rips. All brands can be problematic, some less than others. Best to get the model on the tail end of the generation.
The low IQ general public worships Toyota when they are no better then any other car. Isn’t it funny how Toyota said oil burning isn’t a big issue. Oh it definetly is…..and not something I would buy….
My wife purchased this car before we met with 90,xxx miles. 6 months into us dating I learned it was using 1 pint of oil every 1,000 miles and the entire time it had that horrible rattle. Thank goodness she bought it before we met and she just happened to purchase a bumper to bumper warranty so they replaced this vct actuator, timing chain tensioners, timing chain, “new updated pistons and rings,” front half shaft, and some other suspension part. I have always been a ford guy and have never had issues like this so not the best first impression of Honda. Especially with their reputation they are supposed to have. Now at 140,000 miles we need to replaced shocks and struts. Normal stuff but next car we buy I believe we are going to go back and find the lowest mile 2005 or 2006 crv.
Just add sea foam 4 oz to the engine and make 100 miles max 300 miles before the next oil change. i did, and it works my honda crv has 116 k miles and evry 1 k miles take 1 quter oil now after first time i added and changed oil i did 1800 miles no problem take about 1/3 quter.I will doit again after 3 k miles
I had the same rattling noises on cold start 2012 crv after 200,000 miles. I replaced the vtc actuator,timing chain,tensioner and guides. Currently, 240,000 miles still running good. One issue which could not fixed , vibration on drive at stop lights. Noticed engine rpm is below 600 rpm. If I turned on headlights and AC, vibration gone. Many owners have the issue which Honda can't fixed it. Would be glad to know if anyone has fixed. For your info, ChrisFix had a youtube video to replace vtc actuator.
try to clean the Throttle Body
Front motor mount is shot
@@Dorightby Yes indeed. Been super common on front wheel drive vehicles for half a century. When you are at the light, put the car in neutral and the vibration is gone. The cause is the worn out mount, which is no longer dampening the vibration caused by you holding the transmission back with the brakes. It's in drive and attempting to drive forward, you are just preventing forward motion. If the mounts are new, they do a great job of masking this virbration and noise. Once they are heading for decade old, and get a ton of miles, they no longer mask the harshness and vibration.
Do a replacement of the transmission mounts, cheap and relatively easy
Wish I had seen this video before I bought my 2014 CRV. I even googled common problems before I bought it and it didn't come up.
I've read a lot of 2014 crv owners like their cars. Higher miles on them and going good. Keep up the maintenance on them. American made cars are worse. Watch a few more gen 4 videos and read viewers comments. Owners share their tips.
Are you having issues?
Me too 😘
Hows your crv doing now bud?
@crackermac5410
At 45000 miles, our driver's side heater on our 2013 CRV stopped putting out heat while driving to Minnesota in February several years ago. Our son was able to get us in to a Honda dealer when we arrived that evening in St. Paul. The tech writer told us that there was a service bulletin on this. Evidently slag from the heater core casting process causes this. We had to rent a car from the Honda dealer so we could attend our grandson's music performance that evening. The next morning, we picked up our Honda after a $800 "flush"..I agree, Honda is no more the reliable manufacturer. We still have it, but only drive as a back up to our Mazda CX5..Honda lost a previous loyal customer after owning 11 Hondas...no more.
I’ll tell you that if you had a Ford Escape, Fusion or Focus from around the same time you’d be dealing with a lot worse then just the VTC actuator
Only the 2013 up Escapes. Junk. But 2012 and prior were very good vehicles.
The 05 and 06 with timing chains and same engine dont have the accuator io tensioner issue..so why is that part better and can you use it instead of the one thats in the 13 - 16 models that suffer greatly with this issue.?
I just do the vtc replacement on Honda dealer for $2400 the hole service, and 3 months later the sound comes back. 😢
Omg, and what happens
I own a 2013 CRV too and have the same startup noise during cold start every morning. The driver side vent is also not putting out heat.
How much mileage do you have
That's a common one with drivers side being cooler. I have to turn on my seat heater.
@@IAmBigKes The noise started around 50K, and the car is around 125K now. I just ignored the noise and it runs fine. Just flushed the heater core and the driver side vent heat is working again.
I have that with the side vent. There is a fix. Wiggling the baffle. I am looking for a how to video on it. Did you ever get yours fixed?
My girlfriend just bought a 2014 2 weeks ago. 103k base model. I was looking up videos on how to add fog lights to it and stumble across this one. She had been complaining about this noise with occasional cold starts, but I was thinking it was a hung up starter. Didn't tear into it to figure it out but now I have my answer. Luckily she got a 3-year extended warranty on it from the dealer. Now I just have to fight them on it I'm sure
Mine had noise on cold start up too. If you have a serpentine belt, not the chain, you may have a dry pulley. Cost me 500.00 to get mine repaired/replaced 3 parts and labor. The car sounds so much better. Not as expensive as a drive chain repair but still should not have happened. I only have 75,500 miles. Let us know how it goes for you. I am still going to complain to Honda about this.
I own since 2012 and have clocked 210,000km. No regrets. Vehicle is fantastic
What engine? This is specific to the 2.4
It's 2.4 litre engine
@@JackofAllMasterofNone It was only on certain vin numbers tho. I called Honda to make sure mine wasn't on it.
I have to respectfully disagree with you. Those CRVs are the final years with 2.4 before heading to 1.5 turbo and CVT. Sure that bothered heck out and sure this car burns oils but this is probably something you can compare to 5th gen 4Runner from overall reliability perspective. You just change the oil every 3-5k miles and this CRV will last forever. This is truly the last most reliable engines CRV has to offer.
Did you mean rhe fourth gen crvs or a particular year?
@@danquilty6580 he means the ones which have K24 engines. Honda K24 engines are the best engines Honda ever made
I have 2012 Honda CRV and have 303,759 miles on it as of today. It has no rust and has a bullet proof engine. Totally disagree
Read the other comments....
2014 CRV - I've got the same problem. I've found that if I bump it over once before I let it start cold this never happens. Not great, but at least I don't feel like I'm tearing my engine up. My used car dealer also gave me $500 toward fixing it when I explained the problem.
I'm upset too, Honda needs to take responsibility for this. Not buying another Honda, but honestly I like the car and will drive it many more years.
Guys, my CRVs is not giving comfortable ride.
Struts not leaking but im feeling every small bumbs on road .. should i change my structs?
Its 10 years old now.
2012-2014 CRV also has serious issues with ac compressors and transmissions. The torque converters fail prematurely and there is a recall this year 2022 for the park -interlock on CRv and other Honda vehicles
All they need to do is make a heavy duty plunger and spring inside that vtc actuarial gear with time it weakens the spring so the plunger inside that gear won’t hold the oil pressure
As you may know, the Honda CRV's are very popular among those that tow them behind motorhomes (as I do) and they rarely ever have a problem when doing so. Our's is the 2014 EX fwd, and the odd time it will make the actuator sound, but I've just gotten use to it doing so now and again. Other than the noise, in the six years we've had it, I've changed out the battery (still has the stock Michelin tires) as it's now at just over 80K miles. My wife loves driving it, and it's not bad on fuel and a great little car for running around town, or out on the interstate I've found. I may try going to a little higher viscosity of oil, to see if it makes a difference, but if not will drop down to where it's suppose to be. I do all oil changes at 5K and haven't had to touch a thing since getting it, so I sure can't complain.
Tires should be replaced @ 7 years old regardless of miliage or tread depth.
So, did you change oil viscosities? I had always understood that it's quite risky to do so with a Honda. From the way "Jack" describes the problem, it's not an oil issue, as the reason the noise quits after a second or two is because it takes that long for the oil pressure to rise enough to get everything working correctly. The flow of oil stops the rattle/squeal. I would think that a higher viscosity would make that problem worse, not better. ???
I bought my 14 in 2017.. haven’t had any issues with it except for the VTC. Our Honda dealer has been refusing to fix the VTC ever since we got it in 2017. Otherwise besides that it hasn’t had a single issue. Gave the car to my parents and I use their old 2008 crv currently.
Call Honda directly. Bypass dealer. See what Honda will negotiate with you.
I have a 2011 Honda Fit Sport with 105,000 miles and it has been making that grinding noise for a year now, but only when the temperature drops below 50 F. It has been an excellent car, getting 40 mpg, and except for this noise, I would like to keep it. I also have a 2012 CRV but it has only 12,000 miles, so I tend to drive it in winter time to spare the Fit.
I also heard that newer Toyotas, like the RAV-4, have the same problem.
Thanks for one of the most informative presentation on this topic.
I had the same VTC rattle, also had actuator replaced and noise started again. I was using Fram oil filters with Castrol Extended performance FS. I replaced with a K&N oil filter (same oil) and the problem seems to have gone away!
There has been some discussion that the anti drain back valve in the oil filter can help keep oil pressure and keep oil in the top of the engine, which may help keep it quiet. So there could be something to what you are experiencing.
@@JackofAllMasterofNone
i went through this on another vehicle. Horrific start up rattle, and eventually it became clear that the longer it sat unused, the worse the rattle was. I stopped using Fram's basic filter, switched to a Purolator that literally cost a few dimes more, and it never rattled again.
Never use anything but oem honda filters.
@Optimal Health I still get the rattle though it's far less frequent and typically when the temperature is below 40. Say, once every week or two, or less, if its cold enough. I've never used Honda oil filters, so can't speak for those. The K&N works well enough I'm not sure I'd try anything else. I also use full synthetic Castrol Edge Full Synthetic Extended Performance for reference. Best.
There is some sense to that. The K&N filter is supposed to have better flow rate so oil would get up there quicker.
This makes me wonder if 0W-16 oil would also make a difference but I doubt it.
What if you try to change the Oil to a Genuine Honda Oil semi synthethic and a little bit ticker viscocity? I had that little sound when I recently bought a CRV 2012, it had a very old oil, and when I changed the oil, and the oil stick was exactly in the second dot, the sound dessapeared, at the moment that is my experience 👍
I’m a Honda dealer mechanic and I can tell you the best Crv is the 07-09 years. When they first came out they had bunch of recalls and service bulletins , but Honda fixed them all . After that they were bulletproof(no burning oil or timing gear issues 😅)I still own a 09 model and very happy with it.
What about the 2011?
That Mickey Mouse rear trailing arm recall fix is a bit scary though
Is it practical to buy an 08 CRV for daily. One In looking at is MINT. 1 owner, zero rust, services regular. 13K. I bought a 15 yr old Honda once and it was just an endless black hole for money. It was in terrible shape, bought for 4K and probably put 8K in bf it died 2 yrs later.
I can’t see value in cars 15 + yrs old
Any racing part could fix that? Let me know bc I had same problem
Yes, indeed. The dealer told me this is a common fault of these year models. My 2014 started this hideous sound, when it gets extremely cold ( it certainly can in Iowa). It was still under warranty, thus I pleaded the case with the dealer, and they generously replaced it. So Far, with 50k , and three years it has not returned. Good luck with yours. And I will be definitely switching to either Subaru or Toyota next car time.
Be careful with Subaru to if it has a timing chain. Pieces are breaking off getting into engine. I found a mint condition used Subaru Forester, new drive belt, 4 brand new tires, ect. I really wanted this vehicle. 2012 model ,1 owner, dilagent on upkeep. Only had 114,000 miles but, at 100,000 miles the timing belt was due to be changed. And they would not allow me to take to my mechanic for a quick check.
I got ripped off on my last last vehicle that needed $3,400 in repairs. This time being 72 and very cautious I just requested my mechanic to check. They said no. So I walked away. I'm so disappointed.
Trying to buy a car now that doesn't have major issues is difficult and the prices for used cars are ridiculous, even with 150,000 miles.
I research and very few models that aren't having problems. Be careful. Still looking.🙄
I’d go with Kia/Hyundai these days. Best bang for the buck and good quality.
@@gfriedman99 You might be very right. I don't like the tiny engines they are currently making, nor the cylinder deactivation in the 6.
Some Toyotas also have the same problem.
Ribbet. Bunch of whining ... sounds to me.
Thanks for the video! I was just about to purchase a used 2014 with this noise as thought it just needed a new starter. Passing on these CR-V's.
My 2012 has absolutely no issues… just make sure the oil is changed every 3k miles
My 2012 make that noise unfortunately.
Thank you for this important information. Presented well in detailed
Man thanks for the review! Really good info.
Instead of a Crv, would you recommend a Toyota rav 4?
Our 2014 does it. We just bought it and it has 85k on it. It's super annoying. That said, after researching the issue, I'm not convinced it's damaging the timing components. I know someone with the identical car as ours with 180k on it and it rattles and she said it always has. She ignores it and just keeps up on maintenance and checks her oil.
I look at it like this. How many of these engines has Honda sold? How often do you hear about them blowing up? Lot's of complaints about the rattle yes but how often do we hear of total failure? I don't know. We bought an extended warranty on ours when we bought it so if it does crap out it's covered anyway. I do agree though, Honda should step up and own this.
Total failure is unlikely but more common is that the timing chain starts to stretch from the extra tension that this causes and eventually it stretches out of tolerance and you start having timing problems, check engine light, etc. Then a full timing chain, guides, tensioner and VCT is required to the tune of almost $2,000. It's an engineering flaw that they refuse to own.
@@TheUpholsteryLibrary how many miles did your car have during these instances?
I'll agree to disagree. My 2012 CRV had this issue too. I bought it certified pre-owned with about 35k miles. It did develop the rattle after 40k miles, I don't remember the specific miles. Honda covered it under warranty and it hasn't showed up since, it now has 130K miles.
Very slick of Honda to issue a TSB and not a recall. If this issue can damage the engine long term, it should be a recall.
My CRV also developed a shudder/vibration around 45k miles that was felt throughout the whole vehicle. It happened when shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear and between 25-35 MPH. It ended up needing the torque converter to be replaced, also luckily under warranty.
If I had to pay for these repairs out of pocket I would have been royally pissed. I got lucky. Other than these issues and wear and tear items, I haven't had to replace or repair any other super expensive parts.
So yes, I feel that these are engineering issues that shouldn't happen to a Honda vehicle because of their reliability reputation. It could be worse, just look at Hyundai with their 2.4L theta engines, sheesh what s-show.
Thanks for the video!
i have a 2013 CRV that has that exact same issue with shifting gears! thank you for this comment lol now i know what it is!!
@@arrogantott my friend was able to fix this issue in his 2013 crv with a transmission fluid change, this is the cheapest option to go with first. He used Honda transmission fluid.
Had the same problem, changed the transmission fluid
My wife’s 2014 had the shudder issue, and since it had a rebuilt title due to having been wrecked, I chased this problem for almost two years. I finally found some UA-cam videos when I was getting ready to sell it and they said to change the transmission fluid (really easy to do by the way) and if that didn’t fix it then replace the torque converter. I changed the fluid and it’s smooth as butter now.
Thank you, Jack. I will pay attention for this noise on my ‘16 accord.
My 2011 went 315k km then I changed the vtc actuator and timing chain and tensioner... It's been good since the timing cover had a bit of a leak and I ran it a bit low on oil and the vtc actutor went so when I did it I did the timing chain and VTC actuator but since then the car has been running perfectly 315k km is like 200k miles I'm pretty happy with it
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏 I’ve had this problem for a while now, and since I could never replicate it, I couldn’t explain it to dealers
I buy that it is a potential problem, but is there any real evidece that the timing chain stretches?
My stretched timing chain hanging on the wall and the thousands of other people who have had to pay for it
Make sure that your VVT Solenoid is always cleaned. I heard that this could be the actual faulty design starving the VTC actuator and than making the lock pin's spring weak and unable to lock back in when the engine is stopped. Please let me know.
Interesting
How u clean it??
@@gfriedman99 use mass air flow cleaner and spray it thoroughly. Some use brake cleaner, but its a little aggressive IMO opinion.
What about the 2015 and 2016 CRV models? Do you think after the first years Honda made changes on the 15-16 models?
Depends on the engine.
I have a friend with a 2017 that did it to the point where the timing chain went out.
2014 Honda...just thought I'd ask here, after reading the comments, our car's headlights are looking terrible from the UV sun rays, and I thought I'd ask what you fella's/gals might be using to get them looking clear again? Thanks.
I just replaced them with new ones
I used 3M Headlight Restoration Kit and it's lasted pretty good for about 2 years. But about time to do it again. The problem with replacement is the bumper cover has to be removed or pulled back enough to get in there. Unless there is a trick I don't know about.
I have a 2010 civ and the rattle just started. came across this video looking into it. I started adding 20% Lucas to the oil and no more rattle. Suggested by my 80 year old mechanic.
That just thickens the oil. Won't fix it. You are just masking the issue but if it buys you some time that's great
Was thinking of buying this car. Thank you for the warning. Will think twice about it now,! Appreciate you putting this out there.
Not had the actuator issue on my late 2012 model in UK, but mine has a slight judder when moving off if the weather is cold. Not sure what it is.
Try changing the trans fluid a few times. You might get lucky. They have a known torque converter problem. If you catch it early fluid changes will fix it.
I have 2012 crv 100k kms still i didn't change anything on the engine still like brandnew power on it...
Nice
I'm also wondering if a slightly heavier oil would help it build pressure or keep it lubricated better. I recently bought a 2014, and have this noise.
I've tried all the oils. Doesn't help
I just bought a 2014 crv 2 days ago and noticed a similar noise about every 5th time I start it...thought it was the starter.
Shouldn't there be a code if it's a VCT?
No code. Just noise until it destroys your timing chain, then you get codes.
I have a 2014, 61K miles, its been doing this for a good 20K+ miles now, Noise present even during summer temps. Dealer first denied noticing sound, I went back with research and the TSB, so they acknowledged. But advise was to leave it as is because even after replacing, the issue comes back, as is demonstrated in this video. People turn around and look like whats wrong with your car ? Thats embarrassing!
Yep
Totally agree with you. I just encountered this issue on a 2014 CRV with only 70k miles. Needs a new timing chain too, which shouldn’t be happening this soon. This is becoming a well-documented issue, as demonstrated by the successful lawsuits in California and Illinois. You are absolutely correct in giving this generation a “Don’t buy” label. Sure there are stories of some folks avoiding the problem and praising their reliability: you can win Russian roulette 5 out of 6 times-but I’m still going to recommend “Don’t play this game.”
I get a lot of flack for stating the truth about this generation of CRV. We own one and my wife loves it, but it is what it is. I've had all of the problems this generation is known for with only 100,000 miles on the clock and routine maintenance
Does this problem occur on a 2016 Honda crv 2.0 I vetec, I'm looking at buying one here in Scotland.
I don't believe the 2.0 is affected by this.
I had the same noise from my 2012 CR-V. I replaced VTC myself at 121K but went to Rock Auto for a non-OEM (I was told the OEM replacement would have the same problem in time). I have 165K on it - quiet even in -20F temps. Good luck.
What brand did you use? This may be good information for others.
@@brucenicol1279 What was the mistake? Buying from Honda and using their part? Or do you mean locking it before torquing?
@@lupegalvan9993 locking it before torquing.
I own a 2014 CR-V with 164K miles on it. I've brought my vehicle into the dealer several times for this issue. Had the VTC actuator replaced a few years ago. It started happening again shortly after it was replaced. Took it back to the dealer several times, but it would never make the noise when they had it. One time when I took it in for another issue I was having that required me to ride with a mechanic to show him the problem, I asked him about the noise. He said he knew exactly what it was and that I could get it fixed, but it would only happen again in a little while because the part is defective. I decided to leave it be. Finally, in May of 2021, it got so bad that I had to have the timing chain and everything replaced. To make matters worse, due to parts production shortages and delivery delays caused by Covid, I had to wait about two months for the parts to come in. Parts and labor costs about $1800. Not even a year later, it's happening again!! Of course, it's just out of the 12K mile warranty on the work. I'm at the dealership right now and they say I have two very bad oil leaks. Mind you, I rarely go out much since the pandemic started and there's no oil spot under my carport. Maybe it's just because I own a 2014, but from all the comments I've read, this issue seems to be more prevalent in the 2014 model. I can't afford to shell out that much money again right now. This is my fourth Honda, but it just might be my LAST HONDA!
This is the comment I needed to read just to have some idea at what I’m facing as to cost and result, thanks
My '14 is in the shop now for timing chain/tensioner $1800. Also, my mechanic told me that these cars burn oil more than other models so I started adding oil in between changes. Fingers crossed that's all it needs for awhile. I do love this car!
Use 5-30 oil and just drive it . All the Toyotas do the same thing .
I have owned 4 CR-Vs. ‘99 that I had 144K miles before it was totaled from a rear end crash. No issues. ‘07 that I sold to a friend at 150K and now has 210K. No major issues. Now have ‘13 with 120K and a ‘14 with 60K. Only problem was the a/c that the compressor had to be replaced. I live in Fl and it’s run nearly every day of the year. When I decide to sell my ‘13 at 150-160K I will be purchasing another CR-V.
My daughter likes her 2018. Her inlaws just bought a crv because they like my daughters. I bought her 2013 crv when she bought the 2018. Her 2018 has more pickup.
Change you’re maximum 5000 miles or every 12 months regardless of miles and probably won’t have this problem. My 12 accord 2.4 has 68K with ZERO problems. Plus it get 35 MPG on road and 25 around town. Another thing if you have oil changed by dealer or anywhere else don’t mean they are doing right or good job? Alway follow up before you drive way. Best to do it yourself if you have the skills. Who drive’s around low on oil? Idiots that’s who. Then wonder why they have problems.
This is the first engine that I have had that uses 0W-20 oil. Has anyone tried using a higher viscosity oil to mediate this problem? This may cause more oil to stay in the upper engine. This sound started on my 2012 CRV at about 120,000 miles. I am at now at 145,000 miles, and this occurs on every cold engine start-up, even in the summer.
Has anyone tried Liqui Moly to try to quiet this down? I've seen the video on the spring tensioner inside the VCT gear, itself, but I'm wondering if the spring is better off getting replaced?
I actually tried liquid moly. Made no difference
I have an accord and hear that every time I start especially in winter, thanks for the intel, video it and bring it to them!!!
Yeah it sucks. Just did another CRV. Full timing chain and VTC actuator replacement.
I changed my actuator out with Honda also. A year later …same noise. Found out the recommended 4.2 qt oil fill is not enough. I’ve been putting in 5 quarts, along with that I turn off the A/C and Econ button when starting the car and I haven’t heard the problem since.
I also replaced my belt tensioner…it can make a similar noise to the actuator.
Interesting. I also usually do 5 qts.
We purchased a used 2012 CRV in 2017 with 49K miles. Long story short, we had this same issue, the dealer fixed it once, the problem came back, it wouldn't do this at the dealer when left with them, and it still occasionally does this. We currently have 144k miles on the car. We found that parking the car on our driveway with the front end sloping downward greatly reduces this issue, probably because oil is kept in the actuator better in this position. In 2022, we kept our CRV but bought a new RAV4. We have owned Honda cars since 1995, and Honda motorcycles since 1974, we never bought anything else during that time. The 2012 actuator issue was a factor in choosing the RAV4, but other issues were that Honda engines are now smaller turbo charged engines, and Honda decided to use CVTs (constant velocity transmissions). After decades of owning Honda vehicles, we came to the conclusion that the engineers were no longer making engineering decisions for the company, and the decisions in design appeared to be made now by the accountants. That's just an opinion, our opinion. I really hope that someone at Honda reads this post.
I agree with your comment 💯
Thanks for your video on this issue! Very well done.
Sidebar: What kind of sound microphone system did you use? I’d like to use the same thing because your sound comes though very clear and little background noise. Thanks! Tim
Just the built in microphone on the GoPro hero 7
Honda CRv are the best cars on the market. 100 % recommended.
Do you see any issues with the 2007 CRV that would make you not buy one? Or just stay with a 2006 model CRV?
They seem to also be a good vehicle
Thank you for this valuable inf. My 2014 crv Honda have that noise, they told me is natural sound of the engine. Now i know. Is hard to find a honest knowledgeable mechanic.
What about the 2016 model?
I ask the same question. What about the 2015 and 2016 model?
What is everyone using for oil
0w-20 full synthetic
only use honda 0w-20 full synthetic
Costco synthetic
The question bshoukd be "For everyone who hasn't had this problem, what oil are you using, brand and grade?"
Honda tech, if is posible to swap 09 tsx engine on 2014 crv?
You do know the 2009 TSX has the same exact engine at the 2012-2014 crv?
So why not to many problems on old years engine, how fix this problems . Put vtc from old models?
what about 2010-2011 does it have the same problem?
Amsoil engine flush.. Amsoil signature series motor oil.. and its gone and hasnt came back..
Interesting
More details please. After switching to Amsoil how often do you change the oil, etc.
@@njsongwriter Every 5000 miles. The box says go 3000. But the oil is so high quality it can go further. Just dont push it. But yea, i dont hear it anymore..
thanks for the info. i have the same problem with my 13 CR-v Awd, where do i need to go to see if a recall on this car, i changed fluid in front and back, no fix, now on top there is a shudder at 25 mph in slow acceleration then it goes away, any suggestions? thank, keep up with videos.
Did you drain and fill transmission fluid multiple times? Usually takes 3 times with some driving in between to see if shudder goes away. If it doesnt most likely your torque converter is shot.
I have a friend who has a 2014 CRV with 112,000 miles and broke down on her. Dealership is saying engine is bad . Could this problem possibly have caused it? She's thinking about having a used engine installed but now that I seen this I don't know if she should. Sounds like same thing could happen all over again . Thanks for the video I hadn't seen this anywhere else.
Probably didn’t change the oil enough, if you wait for the idiot light it’s too late
As 2014 Honda CRV LX owner, I absolutely agree with the author of the video. Just avoid it. Get newer. I fixed mine under warranty at the dealer twice. I pick up the car and it is still rattling. Now over 80k miles I'm really not sure if I want to push my luck or just get rid of it while it's more or less sellable.
So does it still run? If so, what are you rambling about? It's almost a decade old.
🗑️
I’m having the same issue, but I’m also dealing with my 2013 CRV with burning oil. I don’t know how that happens? No dripping …no smoking …just goes dry unless I’m putting oil in every 1000 miles! The dealership suggestion was check the oil every 1000 miles🥺
It's got to be burning it if it isn't leaking it. So either a valve problem or a ring problem. Or the easy thing to try first is change your PCV valve. A stuck open valve will go through oil quick.
I have similar issues with my 2008 accord. They fixed it once under warranty after multiple request, and the problem re-surface again soon after, just like you. But, this time, I was already outside warranty period. I decided to leave it as is but it appears over time the problem gets worse for me and the engine started burning oil. Like you, Honda never admit anything wrong with the engine, but I found out about the service bulletin too at the time. Not sure if I am going to fix it or just sell it at this point. I am weighing my option. I bought my car new back then. I am in the midwest area.
I haven't had time to go through all the comments, but does this have anything to do with the CR-Vs slowly losing oil too? I've seen the oil issue on a 2004 and a 2012? The 2004 eventually blew a piston and we had a used 50k engine put in it and it no longer uses oil. One of my kids owns the 2012 now and he still has to put a quart of oil in every couple thousand miles.
It does. Oil consumption can be caused by this issue, which then compounds the problem leading to premature engine failure.
I have a 2013 Honda accord and I hear the same noise at times. When I do hear it, I just top off my oil level and it stops. But I did take it to Honda, and it kinda got swept under the rug because of course it was t making the sound when I took it
Seriously? This seems like a fairly minor problem that doesn't seem to justify saying don't buy this car because of it.
Tell me what engine was he talking about thankvyou what about 2.0 petrol are they any good at all
2.4 engine. The 2.0 is a good engine.
I think the noise you are hearing is because your engine has "variable valve timing", the rattle at the start of engine is the time it's taking for the oil to fill up the inside cavity of camshaft pulley with the teeth on the outside. Theoretically you could take that pulley and weld it in mid point position, your engine will not be VVT any more but the rattle will be gone, however the check engine light might come on, the computer might think there is something wrong. If you know how to replace the timing chain, you can do this job, it's worth a try, get a used camshaft from junkyard to weld.
You are incorrect. Honda has been doing VVT for a long time, and most of their engines don't do this. It's a problem with the VTC.
Is this only on the 2.4 engine? Im in the UK and currently looking to purchase a 2013 with the 2.0 Ivtec manual thanks in advance
Yes, only the 2.4
Most of Honda problem is after the 2011 models the parts are made here in the US by a different supplier. Honda used to get there parts from Japan but after the earthquake it was cheaper to get their parts here. They do stress quality but the parts are shady.
So order parts from Japan?