Good video for showing wiring doesn't meet NEC code. Water heater must have a three feet horizontally and not in front of the electrical panel. Thanks for showing folks they can do this ! Great you have enough 10 gauge wire to move heater over in future! Oh I bet Jim stole your wire nut! Thanks for showing homeowner's they don't need and electrician. You didn't mention the double throw size of breaker but it should be 30 amp
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Ok great, short and sweet explanation here. A while ago I was on the wrong video. This one is great, showed me exactly what I wanted to know. Thumbs up.
I'm assuming that water heater isn't in its permanent location yet. If it is, it appears to be violating the electrical code for the clearance of the service panel.
In some places you must protect a wire like this using conduit, according to one set of codes I've seen. Also, color coding the white wire is required. For those that run the cable a distance through the basement, there are finicky rules how you run that cable. It isn't like the regular 110V house wiring.
You hit on a number of things I was worried about because I have to run wire from the panel to the heater and then there was the conduit thing too, I was hoping I could just run the cable as is with plastic sheathing to the tank. My gut was saying you probably have to use some kind of metal tube for protection with clamps to comply with code.
@@Victor-779 With the tank this close to the panel, I would have used AC90. ps. the guy didn't splice it right either. You normally should twist the wires using pliers, then clip off the tip to make it sharp, and then put the cap over it tight. You must not just hold wires together than cap it.
Well you can't expect the stuff this guy does to be code compliant. He's not licensed, he doesn't take out home owners permits, he doesn't have a business license, he doesn't get inspections from the municipality. He doesn't even meet the NEC definition of qualified person. Guess he works cheap or for free helping out his church buddies and neighbors. Why would you put your building and insurance at risk by hiring this type of workman. I say workman because he has no credentials to deserve the title of electrician.
@@johndavies2949 A non-qualified person working on someone else's electrical is very illegal. It's not even possible to pull a permit for a non-qualified person to perform work on someone else's electrical.
I just replaced my hotwater heater today with an ao smith waterheater. I followed instructions filled take with water and ran hotwater faucet to get the air out. Wired the waterheater then cut the power on. No hot water after 2 hours. Press the reset button still no hot water. Then turned the temperature up to 150 still no hot water. Any suggestions
I don't have the money to afford new wire (but after troubleshooting our problem is either the tank itself, or the wire, already swapped out breaker, element, thermostat, tried reset button etc).. No money for either, but we're wondering if the tank itself burned up wire inside somewhere, or if the handful of rats that showed up the last flood did damage before we found and evicted them. Hope you figured it out.. All summer without hot water was one thing, but we're heading into fall now, and of course winter after that.
What if you had ground, white, red and black wires coming from the circuit panel? Just hook up red to red, black to black ground to ground and don’t use the white?
Same question here. I got a 10-3 wire that was hooked up to my old heater. I forget where the white was, but I think it was screwed onto the housing inside the electrical compartment of heater. Hope someone answers this. I've got a 30 amp breaker with red and black on each pole separately and white to bus with other whites on same bus and ground on other bus inside panel. Didn't realize you only needed 10-2 wire until after I bought old heater
@@bertpainter8385 yep mine too, I could have sworn the white was tied into the ground on my old heater but I wasn’t sure and didn’t wanna chance it so I just capped it off and it seems to be working fine with just the red, black and ground.
As I understand it water heaters don't need the return to neutral, just two wires and a ground. And like an incandescent light the wires don't need to be in a particular polarity .
My old one was wired red water heater to black from panel , and black water heater to white from panel. Which is opposite from this video, but the old water heater was working so wonder if i should put it back the same as it was, or like what is shown in this video which is opposite?
Correct! Black and red connect to black and red at breaker and heater. The white can be cut out. There will be an uninsulated wire that goes to the ground screw at the heater and the ground bar in the panel. White not connected at either end
There is no 220 volt, nominal ir otherwise. Nominal voltage is important especially when dealing with appliances that have heating elements. You can get water heaters that are 208 volt single phase and 24O volt single phase. If you put a 208 volt heating element on a 240 volt circuit you will burn up the element. If you put an element rated for 240 volts on a 208 vokt circuit you will reduce the btu output of the heating element proportionally. This is critical when installing baseboard heat. 208 on 240 heater element burns up. 24O on 208 not enough btu output, thereby skewing your heat loss calculations.
👉😎👍🏼. good job.....I'm an electrician. I think you put the water heater near the electrical panel because you wanted to save electrical wire.....even though it's out of code....👉😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣.....minute 5:52. I think you're looking to see if it's the city inspector...👉😂🤣
If you're in sight of your circuit breaker box your covered. Otherwise get one of those cheap push in pull out disconnect boxes ,3O amp. No fuses necessary. The over current protection is the circuit breaker. Available at the Depot.
I'm not sure that the code allows you to put the hot water heater that close to the panel. Yes they do make 110 volt hot water heaters. They are just the smaller ones that you see fit in the smallest crawl space. Also it looks like you're using Romex 10 2 or you can call it non-metallic sheathed cable. The reason why they color code the other jacket so that people could easily identify the size of the wire. Before in the early 80s people used to always mistake the size of the wire because they could not measure it properly.
Aside the fact that that his box does not have the required space around it. Maybe hes just doing it too close for installation purposes. If you look at the wire to the water heater its super long and, when he bumps the water heater you can see the water pipes wiggle around like they aren't connected to anything. Maybe its wishful thinking and he's going to move it later? Also put that tongue away!
I said the same thing the first time I saw this video why is the hot water heater so close to the breaker panel. Then when I saw the comments I knew I wasn't crazy
I've just had a new 60 gallon giant cascade water heater installed. But my water tank breaker keeps tripping. The specs say that the tank generates 40 amps and needs a 25-30 amp breaker, but I do have a 30 amp breaker. What could the problem be? Thanks
I hate to be "that guy"that complains. Never put a WH that close to the breaker box. Since you are running PEX, it would have been easy to move the WH a few feet. I did not see a water shut off on the WH either. We cannot connect PEX directly to a WH in my area, we have to have 18 inches of pipe from the WH to the PEX. That may be a local thing. Wiring was correct.
I'm not going to grumble about any potential code violations, because they might not be code violations there. The actual content was pretty decent though....not exactly what I'm planning on doing....but it gives an outline of the steps and stuff needed....and for that credit is due....
Who the hell cares. Most codes are worthless government BS anyway. 80 percent of homes were built more then 50 years ago and are 90 percent out of compliance and they are still standing and will continue to stand. An educated person can handle a water heater installation. If they don't know how then can ask for help.
@@pcmountaindog ....If you have an education, I believe that in electricity you have to teach people something correct, don't be stupid, and age matters... I see more clumsy people with an electricity license....
New code says white to only be used as the grounded conductor. Even switch loops for lights need 2 to conductors of colors other than white or green. Not allowed to re identify white wire as hot. The white wire just folded back in the box. Connect it to the neutral bar at the panel in case it has to be utilized at the other end. It's now ready to use when necessary. Like for smart switches or combo switch receptacles or pilot light switches.
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Good video for showing wiring doesn't meet NEC code. Water heater must have a three feet horizontally and not in front of the electrical panel. Thanks for showing folks they can do this ! Great you have enough 10 gauge wire to move heater over in future! Oh I bet Jim stole your wire nut! Thanks for showing homeowner's they don't need and electrician. You didn't mention the double throw size of breaker but it should be 30 amp
30, 31, whatever it takes
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Ok great, short and sweet explanation here. A while ago I was on the wrong video. This one is great, showed me exactly what I wanted to know. Thumbs up.
I'm assuming that water heater isn't in its permanent location yet. If it is, it appears to be violating the electrical code for the clearance of the service panel.
On pex, we require copper leads from the water heater, too
Do you not need metal sheathing around the wires?
Wasn’t there anyway for you to position the water heater closer to the service panel? You must have needed two feet of wire.
Illegal
He is demonstrating for a better view, this video is helpful 👍🏻👌🏻
In some places you must protect a wire like this using conduit, according to one set of codes I've seen. Also, color coding the white wire is required. For those that run the cable a distance through the basement, there are finicky rules how you run that cable. It isn't like the regular 110V house wiring.
You hit on a number of things I was worried about because I have to run wire from the panel to the heater and then there was the conduit thing too, I was hoping I could just run the cable as is with plastic sheathing to the tank. My gut was saying you probably have to use some kind of metal tube for protection with clamps to comply with code.
@@Victor-779 With the tank this close to the panel, I would have used AC90.
ps. the guy didn't splice it right either. You normally should twist the wires using pliers, then clip off the tip to make it sharp, and then put the cap over it tight. You must not just hold wires together than cap it.
Well you can't expect the stuff this guy does to be code compliant. He's not licensed, he doesn't take out home owners permits, he doesn't have a business license, he doesn't get inspections from the municipality. He doesn't even meet the NEC definition of qualified person. Guess he works cheap or for free helping out his church buddies and neighbors. Why would you put your building and insurance at risk by hiring this type of workman. I say workman because he has no credentials to deserve the title of electrician.
Romex is not meant to be installed in exposed locations especially if subject to physical damage. You should have used #10 mc cable.
@@johndavies2949 A non-qualified person working on someone else's electrical is very illegal. It's not even possible to pull a permit for a non-qualified person to perform work on someone else's electrical.
So where the ground connection to the box? You failed to show that part! & what fuse are you using?
Thank you for showing how to wire a water heater. 👍👍👍. Any thing else = I DONT CARE. 😂😂😂😂😂
I just replaced my hotwater heater today with an ao smith waterheater. I followed instructions filled take with water and ran hotwater faucet to get the air out. Wired the waterheater then cut the power on. No hot water after 2 hours. Press the reset button still no hot water. Then turned the temperature up to 150 still no hot water. Any suggestions
I don't have the money to afford new wire (but after troubleshooting our problem is either the tank itself, or the wire, already swapped out breaker, element, thermostat, tried reset button etc).. No money for either, but we're wondering if the tank itself burned up wire inside somewhere, or if the handful of rats that showed up the last flood did damage before we found and evicted them.
Hope you figured it out.. All summer without hot water was one thing, but we're heading into fall now, and of course winter after that.
What was that orange wire connected to originally?
Did he phase the white wire?
Who puts their Hot Water heater that close to a breaker box, Holy Shit!
Yeah that bad boy would haft to be at least on the next wall about 8 feet away maybe more for me to feel good about it that is wow
@@lilbbbbbbb ...haft to...? 😳🤦♂️
@@caseysimon6357 😂 have
Not 5 seconds into the video I muttered the same words. Holy shit that's nuts!
Do you know the amount of wire you’ll save!! Lol 😆
Ohhh boy a panel beside water tank what can go wrong ?
I’ll do one better
I found in my country rental
The breaker box literally in my shower next to the shower head 🥺😨
Thanks for posting.
PEX isn't allowed any closer than 18 inches to the waterheater inlet and outlet connections
Water tank near electrical panel,illegal in my state 😂must be at minimum 6 feet away!
What if you had ground, white, red and black wires coming from the circuit panel? Just hook up red to red, black to black ground to ground and don’t use the white?
Same question here. I got a 10-3 wire that was hooked up to my old heater. I forget where the white was, but I think it was screwed onto the housing inside the electrical compartment of heater. Hope someone answers this.
I've got a 30 amp breaker with red and black on each pole separately and white to bus with other whites on same bus and ground on other bus inside panel. Didn't realize you only needed 10-2 wire until after I bought old heater
@@bertpainter8385 yep mine too, I could have sworn the white was tied into the ground on my old heater but I wasn’t sure and didn’t wanna chance it so I just capped it off and it seems to be working fine with just the red, black and ground.
As I understand it water heaters don't need the return to neutral, just two wires and a ground. And like an incandescent light the wires don't need to be in a particular polarity .
My old one was wired red water heater to black from panel , and black water heater to white from panel. Which is opposite from this video, but the old water heater was working so wonder if i should put it back the same as it was, or like what is shown in this video which is opposite?
Correct! Black and red connect to black and red at breaker and heater. The white can be cut out. There will be an uninsulated wire that goes to the ground screw at the heater and the ground bar in the panel. White not connected at either end
There is no 220 volt, nominal ir otherwise. Nominal voltage is important especially when dealing with appliances that have heating elements. You can get water heaters that are 208 volt single phase and 24O volt single phase. If you put a 208 volt heating element on a 240 volt circuit you will burn up the element. If you put an element rated for 240 volts on a 208 vokt circuit you will reduce the btu output of the heating element proportionally. This is critical when installing baseboard heat. 208 on 240 heater element burns up. 24O on 208 not enough btu output, thereby skewing your heat loss calculations.
👉😎👍🏼. good job.....I'm an electrician. I think you put the water heater near the electrical panel because you wanted to save electrical wire.....even though it's out of code....👉😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣.....minute 5:52. I think you're looking to see if it's the city inspector...👉😂🤣
Not sure if anyone mentioned the water heater being too close to the panel.
Very helpful!
What are you using to turn it off and on ????
I’m assuming you know. Do I need a outlet switch?
If you're in sight of your circuit breaker box your covered. Otherwise get one of those cheap push in pull out disconnect boxes ,3O amp. No fuses necessary. The over current protection is the circuit breaker. Available at the Depot.
I'm not sure that the code allows you to put the hot water heater that close to the panel. Yes they do make 110 volt hot water heaters. They are just the smaller ones that you see fit in the smallest crawl space. Also it looks like you're using Romex 10 2 or you can call it non-metallic sheathed cable. The reason why they color code the other jacket so that people could easily identify the size of the wire. Before in the early 80s people used to always mistake the size of the wire because they could not measure it properly.
I was thinking when he said they don't make a 110v water heater I'm like yes they do 😂
Aside the fact that that his box does not have the required space around it. Maybe hes just doing it too close for installation purposes. If you look at the wire to the water heater its super long and, when he bumps the water heater you can see the water pipes wiggle around like they aren't connected to anything. Maybe its wishful thinking and he's going to move it later? Also put that tongue away!
Are you using Romex 10/2 wire?
derek bailar yes 👍🏻 ...that’s correct 10/2 is the orange wire, 12/2 is usually yellow or gray if outdoor and 14/2 usually white.
@@etiennea.delarosa2383 exposed romex isnt allowed in dwelling. Panel requires very clear 3ft working space so that would be #2 inspection failure.
M Kidd Can one circuit run a hot water tank and a clothes dryer?
@@UncleRandy73 no,
I don’t think u have proper working space infront of ur breaker panel
Plumber ?
I said the same thing the first time I saw this video why is the hot water heater so close to the breaker panel. Then when I saw the comments I knew I wasn't crazy
Please ignore this video. This example is dangerous. Even a skim reading of the water heater manual has better and safer information.
I've just had a new 60 gallon giant cascade water heater installed. But
my water tank breaker keeps tripping. The specs say that the tank
generates 40 amps and needs a 25-30 amp breaker, but I do have a 30 amp
breaker. What could the problem be? Thanks
Your water heater doesn't generate any amps. It uses Amps.
If it is generating amps you must have a steam turbine hooked up to it or something.
What size wire you have?
You should probably use 6 Guage wire and a 40 amp breaker check your codes in your area
Yep. You need 40 amp 2 pole breaker but you can get by with #8 wire. 6 is good for 50 amps.
What is a braker numer? 20, or 30 A??
30 with double pole.
What gauge is that electrical wiring?
10 awg
I hate to be "that guy"that complains. Never put a WH that close to the breaker box. Since you are running PEX, it would have been easy to move the WH a few feet. I did not see a water shut off on the WH either. We cannot connect PEX directly to a WH in my area, we have to have 18 inches of pipe from the WH to the PEX. That may be a local thing. Wiring was correct.
Why would you leave all that extra wire tho??
Nothing like mixing water and electricity...........never use a pair of pliers to "tighten" a wire nut, hand tighten and then tape.
Nasty job !
no conduit?
Hot water heater? Why do you have to heat hot water? It's just a water heater! A cold water heater actually. But just a water heater:)
But where does the flux capacitor fit in
... I'm trying to build a time machine with old.parts 🤣 jk nice video
I'm not going to grumble about any potential code violations, because they might not be code violations there. The actual content was pretty decent though....not exactly what I'm planning on doing....but it gives an outline of the steps and stuff needed....and for that credit is due....
5:48. Jim from City Code Enforcement.
LMAO
U should've installed the electric panel box directly to the water heater 😅🤣
From now on i see this guy, keep scrolling
Great video
Thanks!!!!
Thanks
Romex wire? Would not pass code. What a hack job.
I wouldn’t trust anyone who says “hot water heater”.
Why? It IS possible to heat already hot water, you know.
Code violations everywhere here.
Who the hell cares. Most codes are worthless government BS anyway. 80 percent of homes were built more then 50 years ago and are 90 percent out of compliance and they are still standing and will continue to stand. An educated person can handle a water heater installation. If they don't know how then can ask for help.
@@pcmountaindog ....If you have an education, I believe that in electricity you have to teach people something correct, don't be stupid, and age matters... I see more clumsy people with an electricity license....
👍👍
I see another code violation. Must have 18in of copper on top of hot water tank not pex.
My 2 cents. :)
Gas water heater only
It's 120/240
you meant well
Forget any state regulations....the whole thing is missing common sense....
For all of you google electricians, shhhhhhhh. Nobody cares what you think nor what you believe should be done regarding spacing.
You don't explain nothing. 👎
Deadbeat instructions
Yeah...no
White wire is always neutral
The white wire can be a neutral wire in regular applications. But there are some applications where the white wire become a hot wire
seaside51 reidentification of a grounded conductor by code is allowed
A white wire can be a hot or traveler when using romex from light to a switch.
No your wrong in this instance, color coded tape can be used to meet NEC per code
New code says white to only be used as the grounded conductor. Even switch loops for lights need 2 to conductors of colors other than white or green. Not allowed to re identify white wire as hot. The white wire just folded back in the box. Connect it to the neutral bar at the panel in case it has to be utilized at the other end. It's now ready to use when necessary. Like for smart switches or combo switch receptacles or pilot light switches.