For a second there I thought I was back in the 90's watching Bob Villa. Hahaha. Really informative video! I've not ever considered making contact sheets for 4x5. I look forward to doing it!
You should definitely try large format contact printing, even if it's just a 4x5 at a time. They're wonderful prints and show off the best of what each negative has to offer!
I would argue that contact printing is the purest form of printing there is. Not only do you get the sharpness but you get the tonality that you don't get with enlargements. It's one reason why I moved up to ULF. Nothing beats a contact print.
Very nice. Once more kudos to everyone who made the live session happen. Printing variables 6. and 7.: Dilution of the developer (negligible if one always goes with what the box says) and agitation. The latter will have effects on contrast, while temperature is mainly responsible for overall density. Oh, and maybe variable No. 8: Contamination of your gloves ;-) ... A darkroom is definitely on top of my bucket list.
Good considerations! I've used nitrile gloves for years and never experienced any contamination effects or temperature shifts with them. When tray processing sheet films by hand, I do have to dip my fingers in a water bath to keep temperature controlled.
Very inspiring. 11x14 seems the perfect sheet size for someone shooting with a grafmatic back. I don’t think there are many videos about contract printing, that’s a great addition.
Thanks Nico! Contact printing with large format is one of my favorite ways to proof work, even though I don't do it as much as I used to. One of these days I'll have to try a similar contact sheet, but with 8x10's on 20x24" paper!
As a purest, he's using the same fiber based paper proposed for the final print. My practice is to use the same emulsion on an RC base. Arguably, the RC version will yield a slightly different image tone than the fiber-based alternative. However, I find that difference to be very small. Whereas the RC print can be done to "final" in a few minutes, the fiber print will take hours to dry or require a very good (expensive) dryer and still take much longer. The issue is both one of time savings and image tone, as the emulsion will "dry down", changing density from wet to dry. You really cannot judge your result in detail until the contract print is fully dry.
I wouldn't call myself a purist, and when doing large amounts of printing, I'll start with RC and move to fiber after proofing. Ilford is one of those rock-solid paper stocks that I can predictably make the transition with little fuss. At the darkroom in college, we had an old microwave to insta-dry fiber prints the "Ansel Adams way"!
@@MatMarrash A certain Dr. Nieberding made fun of me big time for making contacts on fiber paper. I used to do that on single weight paper, but now make my contacts the easy way on RC. But the fiber is more permanent, and maybe more suitable for giving away the contacts.
Great Videos Mat, Hey Here is an Idea.... How about a darkroom series for beginners ? haha its a big ask but hear me out...I live in Sydney, Australia and Darkroom rental prices are so prohibiting, specially if you really don't know what you are doing. Ive built my own Darkroom at home and have lots of published resources but I guess one thing I feel I am really missing is the Human factor, someone teaching and someone to learn from as I see them making and doing these techniques. It is one thing reading about it and another thing seeing someone doing something. I figured, you are creating great content and thought I might just drop the idea in there. hope you are well and Really enjoyed the LF studio shoot.
Hey Rommel thanks for the comment and kind words. That would be a HUGE undertaking for anyone, but a cool idea. I'm going to stay committed to what I know best at this time, and there's a long way to go with large format topics.
Very nice - I just stumbled over it after making my first contact print! I especially love the selenium part - could you please show a side by side, of a print with and without selenium toning - it does not come through in the video!
I make my 4x5 contact prints on RC paper. And save my fiber for final prints. However lately I have been enjoying some small prints a friend has matted and framed. So I think I want to make a good fiber contact print. I would like to get a grungy border to mat around but no idea how. I have seen it done so I know it is possible.
Hey Terry thanks for the comment. Fiber contact prints are a special treat, but not something I do for every negative/sheet of negatives. For a grungy border on large format, you may need to create your own mask using a digital negative or a hand-cut piece of rubylith. For alternative process, a lot of times that type of border is caused by hand-painting of the light sensitive emulsion.
A comment and a question. The comment is that I find that agitation of the paper in the developer affects contrast. So I'm careful about my agitation. And question: do you use your fixer as a one-shot, or do you reuse it?
Hey Mark! I'll filter and re-use fixer until it fails the Hypo-check test. Never had any agitation so aggressive that it changed contrast; I have seen low agitation create weird blotches and streaks in larger prints. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Mat, as usual, awesome video. This is so motivating. I just bought some 11x14 ilford multigrade FB paper yesterday and you just posted the video using it today. So helpful. I do have some questions. 1. I do some development at home. Sometimes I feel the odor from the chemicals not so pleasing. Do you think there's any health concerns with the open tray? Do you wear mask or anything? 2. For actual B&W prints, what paper do you suggest, for both 8x10 and 11x14? 3. I will try to search in your library to see if you have one on the actual prints. But If you know one on top of your head, please let me know. As always, great content and inspiration!
Aside from location and plumbing, one of the biggest considerations for a darkroom is adequate ventilation. In short bursts the fumes aren't terrible, but you still want to be changing the air in your darkroom at least once every five minutes. For final prints, I'm a big fan of Ilford Multigrade Fiber (Glossy) and for quick proofing I also like RC Pearl Deluxe. Fiber papers will take to toning better than RC, but take longer for every other step in processing. Developers I use Ilford Multigrade liquid developer since it's easy to mix same-day as printing and tends to last a while.
Hi Mat, I received the FB paper. I bought it used from a reputable store. However, the paper seems to be curled. Is that normal after the bag already opened? Another question I had after I went back to view the video again is to find out how you dry the prints. Can you share what the platform you put the prints on to dry? Thank you in advance.
Half of the reason I got into trying large format was to explore contact printing. Thanks so much! I picked up a dichroic omega enlarger for up to 6x7 for $20 cdn. I would like to contact print with it. Can you dial up contrast with colour head on contact prints too? Hoe about dodging and burning? It must be harder with contact prints? Is it even possible? I will have to setup a closet and get some paper! Thanks again!
If you use variable contrast paper, the dichroic colorhead in your enlarger can be used to adjust contrast exactly as you would if making an enlargement. Dodging and burning doesn't work so well on contact sheets, as the idea is to show what the basic negative will do, then make detail adjustments on a trial print enlarged to final size. (Of course, you can give it a try.) $20 for a colorhead equiped Omega 67; how times have changed! On well, so much the better for those interested in darkroom work.
Thanks Randall! I personally don't do a lot of dodging and burning when making a contact sheet of multiple negatives, but have done it with 8x10 contact prints that had a specific "look" I was chasing in the final print.
Hey Peter! You can definitely dial in contrast with contact prints as well. Dodging and burning is very tricky and not often something I do, but I've done a bit with special 8x10 contact prints. Hope you have fun with the new enlarger!
Thanks for the question Gary, it was still damp, but had been on the drying rack for ~1 hour. On the screens, emulsion up, they dry pretty close to flat, with slight curls in the corners.
Hi thanks for the question. Never experienced newtons rings making darkroom prints. I tend to use a thicker piece of glass with contact prints, that may be something that helps.
interesting video, just wished all of you print guys gave the developing data in millilitres, and NOT in the algebraic form aka the 1+9 as without units, NO one knows what the measuring cup/bottle you used was, and we ALL work in ML's, just think if we gave a cooking recipie in units you couldn't understand, like quarts, bushels, etc. whould you be able to use the recipie??, or if you said heat at 200 degrees, and didn't say F or C, how would we know, and same if you say a 45 or 90 degree day outside, in Australia, 47 is our TOP temperature, plus water boils at 100degrees!!!, so what would you think?
For a second there I thought I was back in the 90's watching Bob Villa. Hahaha. Really informative video! I've not ever considered making contact sheets for 4x5. I look forward to doing it!
You should definitely try large format contact printing, even if it's just a 4x5 at a time. They're wonderful prints and show off the best of what each negative has to offer!
Wow, it’s like magic...... so fun and rewarding!! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Well done. On my list to learn with an improvisation for lacking an enlarger. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed!
I would argue that contact printing is the purest form of printing there is. Not only do you get the sharpness but you get the tonality that you don't get with enlargements. It's one reason why I moved up to ULF. Nothing beats a contact print.
Contact prints are definitely a special breed, and a qualifier for those thinking about moving to ULF. One of these days 12x20...one of these days!
@@MatMarrash I hope that happens for you someday.
Solid work!!! I was trained over 40 years ago to keep the development the same time and adjust the exposure to fit that!!!
Nice and clear contact sheets.....! Nice work Mat
Thanks for Share excelent class
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for your video!
My pleasure!
Wonderful show!!!
Thanks Li! :D
@@MatMarrash 🥰 love every single post, so many things to learn 👏👏👏
Love this type of printing!
Im so excited about starting large format soon !
Have fun on your journey into large format! :D
Very nice. Once more kudos to everyone who made the live session happen.
Printing variables 6. and 7.: Dilution of the developer (negligible if one always goes with what the box says) and agitation. The latter will have effects on contrast, while temperature is mainly responsible for overall density.
Oh, and maybe variable No. 8: Contamination of your gloves ;-)
... A darkroom is definitely on top of my bucket list.
Good considerations! I've used nitrile gloves for years and never experienced any contamination effects or temperature shifts with them. When tray processing sheet films by hand, I do have to dip my fingers in a water bath to keep temperature controlled.
Very cool idea to put several contacts in a large sheet of paper. I will try this myself :-)
Thanks, it was a fun experiment and I might have to try it with bigger negatives too.
Loved it m8b :-)
Glad you enjoyed
Totally awesome. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
this is soooo cool =D
Thanks! Anytime I can get into the darkroom to print, it's a good time!
Very inspiring. 11x14 seems the perfect sheet size for someone shooting with a grafmatic back. I don’t think there are many videos about contract printing, that’s a great addition.
Thanks Nico! Contact printing with large format is one of my favorite ways to proof work, even though I don't do it as much as I used to. One of these days I'll have to try a similar contact sheet, but with 8x10's on 20x24" paper!
Mat Marrash is the frame a B&S?
I think that's one of the old Kodak print frames in the darkroom. Never used a brand new one, but they look very nice!
As a purest, he's using the same fiber based paper proposed for the final print. My practice is to use the same emulsion on an RC base. Arguably, the RC version will yield a slightly different image tone than the fiber-based alternative. However, I find that difference to be very small. Whereas the RC print can be done to "final" in a few minutes, the fiber print will take hours to dry or require a very good (expensive) dryer and still take much longer. The issue is both one of time savings and image tone, as the emulsion will "dry down", changing density from wet to dry. You really cannot judge your result in detail until the contract print is fully dry.
I wouldn't call myself a purist, and when doing large amounts of printing, I'll start with RC and move to fiber after proofing. Ilford is one of those rock-solid paper stocks that I can predictably make the transition with little fuss. At the darkroom in college, we had an old microwave to insta-dry fiber prints the "Ansel Adams way"!
@@MatMarrash A certain Dr. Nieberding made fun of me big time for making contacts on fiber paper. I used to do that on single weight paper, but now make my contacts the easy way on RC. But the fiber is more permanent, and maybe more suitable for giving away the contacts.
Excellent episode Mat!
Thanks Ian, now to find some more to print!
This is SO cool!
Thanks! They're lots of fun to make.
Great Videos Mat, Hey Here is an Idea.... How about a darkroom series for beginners ? haha its a big ask but hear me out...I live in Sydney, Australia and Darkroom rental prices are so prohibiting, specially if you really don't know what you are doing. Ive built my own Darkroom at home and have lots of published resources but I guess one thing I feel I am really missing is the Human factor, someone teaching and someone to learn from as I see them making and doing these techniques. It is one thing reading about it and another thing seeing someone doing something. I figured, you are creating great content and thought I might just drop the idea in there. hope you are well and Really enjoyed the LF studio shoot.
Hey Rommel thanks for the comment and kind words. That would be a HUGE undertaking for anyone, but a cool idea. I'm going to stay committed to what I know best at this time, and there's a long way to go with large format topics.
thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Very nice - I just stumbled over it after making my first contact print! I especially love the selenium part - could you please show a side by side, of a print with and without selenium toning - it does not come through in the video!
PS.: I definitely love the wind screen wipers 😎👍
I make my 4x5 contact prints on RC paper. And save my fiber for final prints. However lately I have been enjoying some small prints a friend has matted and framed. So I think I want to make a good fiber contact print. I would like to get a grungy border to mat around but no idea how. I have seen it done so I know it is possible.
Hey Terry thanks for the comment. Fiber contact prints are a special treat, but not something I do for every negative/sheet of negatives. For a grungy border on large format, you may need to create your own mask using a digital negative or a hand-cut piece of rubylith. For alternative process, a lot of times that type of border is caused by hand-painting of the light sensitive emulsion.
Very informative video, thanks. Who makes those custom contact printing frames.
Thanks Gary! That was an old Kodak printing frame, but new ones are available from Bostick and Sullivan as well as Photographer's Formulary.
A comment and a question. The comment is that I find that agitation of the paper in the developer affects contrast. So I'm careful about my agitation. And question: do you use your fixer as a one-shot, or do you reuse it?
Hey Mark! I'll filter and re-use fixer until it fails the Hypo-check test. Never had any agitation so aggressive that it changed contrast; I have seen low agitation create weird blotches and streaks in larger prints. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Mat, as usual, awesome video. This is so motivating. I just bought some 11x14 ilford multigrade FB paper yesterday and you just posted the video using it today. So helpful. I do have some questions. 1. I do some development at home. Sometimes I feel the odor from the chemicals not so pleasing. Do you think there's any health concerns with the open tray? Do you wear mask or anything? 2. For actual B&W prints, what paper do you suggest, for both 8x10 and 11x14? 3. I will try to search in your library to see if you have one on the actual prints. But If you know one on top of your head, please let me know.
As always, great content and inspiration!
One more question, between the multigrade FB paper and multigrade IV RC deluxe paper, any preference on which one to use for contact sheet? Thank you.
Sorry, one more thing, I did not see what developer you used. Any preference on which to use? Thank you again.
Aside from location and plumbing, one of the biggest considerations for a darkroom is adequate ventilation. In short bursts the fumes aren't terrible, but you still want to be changing the air in your darkroom at least once every five minutes. For final prints, I'm a big fan of Ilford Multigrade Fiber (Glossy) and for quick proofing I also like RC Pearl Deluxe. Fiber papers will take to toning better than RC, but take longer for every other step in processing. Developers I use Ilford Multigrade liquid developer since it's easy to mix same-day as printing and tends to last a while.
@@MatMarrash Thank you so much for answering all my questions. Very helpful again. Much appreciated.
Hi Mat, I received the FB paper. I bought it used from a reputable store. However, the paper seems to be curled. Is that normal after the bag already opened? Another question I had after I went back to view the video again is to find out how you dry the prints. Can you share what the platform you put the prints on to dry? Thank you in advance.
Half of the reason I got into trying large format was to explore contact printing. Thanks so much! I picked up a dichroic omega enlarger for up to 6x7 for $20 cdn. I would like to contact print with it. Can you dial up contrast with colour head on contact prints too? Hoe about dodging and burning? It must be harder with contact prints? Is it even possible? I will have to setup a closet and get some paper! Thanks again!
If you use variable contrast paper, the dichroic colorhead in your enlarger can be used to adjust contrast exactly as you would if making an enlargement. Dodging and burning doesn't work so well on contact sheets, as the idea is to show what the basic negative will do, then make detail adjustments on a trial print enlarged to final size. (Of course, you can give it a try.) $20 for a colorhead equiped Omega 67; how times have changed! On well, so much the better for those interested in darkroom work.
Thanks Randall! I personally don't do a lot of dodging and burning when making a contact sheet of multiple negatives, but have done it with 8x10 contact prints that had a specific "look" I was chasing in the final print.
Hey Peter! You can definitely dial in contrast with contact prints as well. Dodging and burning is very tricky and not often something I do, but I've done a bit with special 8x10 contact prints. Hope you have fun with the new enlarger!
@@randallstewart175 I didn't mention that I also got a Paterson tank, trays and tongs and accordion bottles for chemicals.
Was the print at the end still wet or did it actually dry that flat?
Thanks for the question Gary, it was still damp, but had been on the drying rack for ~1 hour. On the screens, emulsion up, they dry pretty close to flat, with slight curls in the corners.
how do you manage not to have newton rings?
Hi thanks for the question. Never experienced newtons rings making darkroom prints. I tend to use a thicker piece of glass with contact prints, that may be something that helps.
How toxic is selenium?
interesting video, just wished all of you print guys gave the developing data in millilitres, and NOT in the algebraic form aka the 1+9 as without units, NO one knows what the measuring cup/bottle you used was, and we ALL work in ML's, just think if we gave a cooking recipie in units you couldn't understand, like quarts, bushels, etc. whould you be able to use the recipie??, or if you said heat at 200 degrees, and didn't say F or C, how would we know, and same if you say a 45 or 90 degree day outside, in Australia, 47 is our TOP temperature, plus water boils at 100degrees!!!, so what would you think?