DIY is 256:1 and if you want to do a proper test you should get the proper sponges made for rinse less washes, Mackees has one, DIY has one and amazon has man knock off brands. You should look into including Clean by Pan and Detail Co as they seem to be very good.
Hi Jon, I pre wash using Bilt Hamber touchless then use DIY detail rinseless as the contact wash. I previously used P&S and had great results but just wanted to try the DIY. P&S definitely left a slicker finish.
I just did a decontamination, polish and ceramic coating on my Blazer RS last weekend. I separated the polishing stage into two days. When i was done, I had a thin layer of dust, so I used P&S Absolute to quickly wipe down the surface. I too thought about if Absolute was leaving anything on the surface. However, I don’t think I was as concerned about this. I knew that I was going to follow up with a paint prep before installing the ceramic coating. I cannot imagine a quality paint prep not being able to remove anything left behind by the lubrication polymers inside P&S, or any other non-protective rinse-less for that matter. Therefore, a small amount of protection it “might” be leaving behind before a proper paint prep is a mute issue in my opinion. Personally, I am looking for great slickness in a rinse-less wash, as the slicker the surface, the less chance of wash marring. In the past, I have used ONR, Wolfgang Uber and most recently Absolute. I find Absolute to be the slickest on the contact wash and also in the drying stage. I also think P&S has better cleaning power than the other two products. I am very interested to find out the results of your testing to see if you come up with the same conclusions. Great work as always, Jon!!!
Hey Jon, I've been an avid rinseless user since 2018 and I have tried nearly all of them. I'm a champion overthinker, so rest assured I have spent a lot of time using and analyzing these products. Of the lineup you have there, the only ones I have not tried are the Auto Glym and Carbon Collective as they are not available in the US. I only regularly use rinseless washes that do not leave durable protection. My vehicles are ceramic coated and I like to leave the coatings bare with no toppers or other durable products that are going to mask or modify the performance of the coatings. In the group you have, the only ones that I would exclude from a prep wash process (before polishing or coating) would be the Gyeon and Labocosmetica. They are both leaving durable ceramic protection that can bond to the surface. The Gyeon version will probably last a month or two (depending on dilution) and Idrosave can leave 3-6 months worth of protection. It is the rinseless equivalent of a ceramic shampoo product. Don't get too caught up in the marketing speak about "gloss and slickness," "preservation" or the flip side statement of "leaves nothing behind." The "leaves nothing behind" is a favorite tag line of DIY Detail and McKee's for their rinseless products. Both are fantastic cleaners and they do leave the surface very clean, however even they are leaving "something" in the form of a slight surfactant residue or non-durable polymer (both use an emulsion process to combine surfactants and polymers together). ONR and Absolute are frequently targeted by the fans of DIY/McKee's as "leaving something behind." I have used both extensively throughout the prep and polishing process; as a wash product, clay lube, polishing pad cleaner (with a pad washer) and to dampen a towel for compound/polish removal. Any small amount of polymers left on the surface are readily removed by any IPA solution or other coating prep product. It is a non-issue. Rrw and Hero are newer products to me that I have not used in a prep process yet, however I can confidently state that anything left on the surface by them is not durable at all. Any "slickness" or gloss left on the surface by them (or ONR and Absolute) lasts only a few days at best. It is gone by the next time you wash, or the first time you take it out in the rain. Rrw definitely feels lighter in that department, and leaves more of a squeaky clean feeling than Hero (which feels a bit more slippery). I definitely think that both could be used throughout the prep process, but I would only do so if I was out of ONR/Absolute or DIY. Rrw and Hero really excel as maintenance products, so I tend to reserve them for that purpose. For the folks that are regularly using detail sprays, sealants and toppers after a wash, none of these are going to cause you any issues at all.
These protection layers are a none permanent layer built into its polymer package. It does wear off after a few days. These rinseless washes use an SIO2 backbone or structure without leaving an actual SIO2 protective layer, they are just harnessing some of the technology. With most of these rinse-less washes you can go straight to the polishing stage easily. Another usage these rinse-less washes can offer is a polishing pad clean. It'll encapsulate the polishing compounds much like dirt from the paintwork. Unless any of these products really address a protective package built in which not many have. Then there isn't anything permanent, you can ceramic coat once dry if it doesn't need a polish on a couple of brands there. I don't know about that for all of them. Labocosmetica Idrosave does have a nana sealant built in as you can clearly see on the bottle labelling. Idrosave is awesome 👌 Do not use too much Idrosave as it could cause minor problems. Alway stick to their recommendations. Some of these newer milky coloured RWs have a cosmetic grade surfactant package meaning they clean a little bit better before, plus they have been updated to not leave any 'forever chemicals' (PFAS) behind. I think next year of the next, chemicals need to adhere to a new standard, so there will be a change in most industries I'm guessing 🤷♂️
Nice to hear your well laid out thoughts in this video. Looking forward to the follow-up. Although I am using rinseless (Absolute) every wash, my favorite use of it is when cleaning the windows of our house. Pre-spray with the electric sprayer when on the outside, then using a bucket + sponge (China lookalike of the branded ones). Then using a microfiber as a squegee or the windowvac (most of the time that one is out of battery) and then drying with the 'carwindow waffle towel'. I sincerely enjoy cleaning windows now after having hated it for years. The waffle towel and rinseless together are working wonders on glass.
One interesting property to test could be their foaming ability. When it’s really dusty I like to pre-soak with a pump foamer to get a bit more dwell time, although it requires a lot stronger dilution (around 1:30 with DIYv2)
I'd love to see a video where you go through how you'd spend your first X, then Y and then Z pounds, what products you'd prioritise etc utilising all these years of research you've done to put together the most effective kit lists for 3 or so budgets (you could do rookie, enthusiast and professional tiers and budgets that fit with them). Would be a great set of videos which would be opinionated of course and not entirely looking at the ratings too.
In my personal experience .. Rinseless principle goes the opposite direction of not leaving anything behind. If the Rinseless has polymers in it to encapsulate the dirt and provide a layer under the dirt to protect the paint while cleaning. Then there is something left behind and as an experiment I washed my car with ONR and I was traveling to other place, Suddenly it rained and the water on high speed was flying of the paint. But this diminishes after 2-3 days. So was DIY V1 but a bit less in the hydrophobic effect.. I don’t know about V2. So personally I call it a temporary protection.. mainly to help during washing.
Nice lineup and I think you should keep idrosave 😊 Would also have loved to see Shiny Garage Rinse Free Eco Wash in the test (I like ❤️) as well as Carpro ECH2O (also a rinseless). Cheers from Denmark
Hi John, never used waterless wash on my car but be interesting to see your results . Being able to wash my car in the garage in the winter months would be a bonus.
Also, during testing please please find out if the DIY Detail RW leaves something on the surface. Leaves my hydrophillic glass hydrophobic. Its marketed as a "wash & shine"
If will always leave something behind.... how long it lasts is dependant on the the chemicals. Labo is notorious for leaving a lot of polymer behind. My own homemade rinseless wash has added 'ceramic'... I want it to leave something as I never use it for prep, only for maintenance washes.
@@pigeonpoo1823 90% Turtle Wax Waterless Wash 5% Turtle Wax Pure Wash 5% Turtle Wax Flex Wax To make the concentrate. Then I use this at 1:100 in a bucket with a Rag Co Ultra Safe Sponge
I know this will be my third reply, but feel like I have to say this John; around 33 minutes in you say something I have heard you say before about rinseless process vs regular. However the way Yves Lacroix is teaching does resemble the regular way a lot. Chemical (could be rinseless), rinse (/pressure washer) and then again chemical (rinseless). There is not much difference in process then. So you don't rely more on hand contact with the rinseless to cover each spot, as you have already blasted most of the dirt off. Just as with your regular washea. To test that theory (/the cleaning capabilties of a rinseless) half a car pre-treated with BH foam and half with rinseless would be very interesting. I switch up depending on the mood/ time etc. between BH autofoam and Absolute for the first round of chemical.
The Absolute is definitely leaving something behind. I really like that, as there is no need for a drying aid. And also not for or quick detailer/ gloss enhancer afterwards. This is helping my bottle of Gyeon QD from being used every wash :) My process: Pre-spray with BH Autofoam or Absolute, than rinsing with the pressure washer. And for the joy of it another time around the car with the electric sprayer filled with Absolute. Then the contactwash with only one bucket (saying this to prevent myself getting back to two buckets 🙈) and then drying with a towel with a little mist of Absolute in it. It is so glossy and slick after that! I'm not a chemist, therefore I would put on some panelprep before putting on a sealant. But I am really curious if indeed that would be necessary.
Yes, everything leaves "something" behind. But in the case of Absolute it is not durable at all. It just sits on top and won't bond to the surface, so it is gone by the next time you wash or take it out in the rain. If you are applying a sealant after, the carrier agents of the sealant will eliminate it.
From what I remember, the story on Labo was that when it was released they were claiming it didn't leave anything behind... but it did, so they had to add the sticker.
makes sense with why the nano sealant bit was a sticker... but yer I think as some of the other products its not clear if they leave stuff behind I think it wont interfere with the testing I have planned. so im gonna include it.
@@ForensicDetailing I hear it's very good if the protection is not a deal breaker. I only use rinseless for maintenance washes so it's fine for me. Labo also do a pair of rinseless specific pre washes (acid and alkaline) so a 3ph rinseless system.
about DIY and in general - 2 Gal equal 256 ounces ,so there is no need to convert to ml and then calculate the ratio ... by the way,DIY also announced V2 of rinseless ,from the color of the liquid yours already V2...
Would have loved to also see car pro echo2 (pretty old, hopefully they'll revisit it soon) and infinity wax zero water cause I see them everywhere. Still, that's really a good lineup, really curious about the results!
but 2 US gallon is 7571ml and 1 fluid oz is 28.413ml there must be some error in the conversion because 256 fluid oz is 7273ml which then makes it 1:256. dunno. but it does not really matter. it would create a few varience in favor of DIY detail and it does not cause any shift in ranking on price so either way should be fine. But it you can figure out whats gone wrong here it would help me. Im guessing its a conversion inaccuracy within the various standards.
@@WolfAbarth the US fluid oz at 29.57 which makes the calculation 1:256. makes sense so Ill use 1:256 for this and ONR. So whatever FL Oz standard I was using must be different or wrong. (thank you colin)
@@YakAlien really? It was slick, good at pulling dirt from a sponge but utterly hopeless for cleaning the car. I definitely wouldn't buy it again. Try Garage Therapy Rinseless. Not the slickest, but very good at cleaning
Ultima Waterless wash plus concentrate, ethos hybrid ceramic rinseless wash, owners pride eco wash and carpro ech2o these would make an awesome addition to your test. Thumbs up if you agree 👍
im not sure if you can get it over here yet m8. Im also not sure if it would have made the lineup from the patreon feedback but Im interested to try them all so maybe one for the future.
I've always thought all that these retailers could make life so much easier if the just for example: 1 Lid full of each bottle = 5 litres this would just make life nice and straightforward, washing a car is not rocket science and should not include how to work out various ratios, its washing a bloody car, 1 lid full added to 5 litres makes a correct ratio, 2 lids full for 10 litres 3 lids = 15 litres nice easy maths, man maths.
no I dont want lids fulls. I want ratios. Beyond the ratio I have no problem with them then including lid of cap fulls in addition. But I want ratio. soon as I see ratio I know roughly how much to use. if I dont know I can work it out in a few seconds. But capfulls I have to start measuring stuff. and dosing stuff out in capfulls means I spill product and product runs all down my bottles etc... So no I disgree. Both fine. But Ratio is priority. ratio also instantly allows me to cross compare and place the product within the market.
I used to buy into that, I don't think it is that big of a deal in practice. I've used DIY and other surfactant rinseless washes that leave the fine particulate suspended in the solution and have never had an issue with the right technique and wash media. The big grit that you really need to worry about should've already been taken off with a proper prewash, or worst case it will sink to the bottom of the bucket below the grit guard.
I have the data on koch and CC now.... Idrosave will be included in the test... also DIY and ONR are 1:256
DIY is 256:1 and if you want to do a proper test you should get the proper sponges made for rinse less washes, Mackees has one, DIY has one and amazon has man knock off brands. You should look into including Clean by Pan and Detail Co as they seem to be very good.
Hi Jon,
I pre wash using Bilt Hamber touchless then use DIY detail rinseless as the contact wash. I previously used P&S and had great results but just wanted to try the DIY. P&S definitely left a slicker finish.
I think we can all aggree that you have to try Clean by Pan!
Yes!
Absolutely, way too many biased reviews out there!
Yupp. It is after all the absolute best in the world. And should win this line up without problem. (Pans words, not mine)
@@elonsus9747I have no doubts about the quality from Pan, but still. Who doesnt want the best tester to test it and tell you what he thinks ✨️
As much as I don't want him to get any more additional hype, I'd like to see what Jon says but thankfully it didn't make the cut...oh well 🤷♂️🙄
I just did a decontamination, polish and ceramic coating on my Blazer RS last weekend. I separated the polishing stage into two days. When i was done, I had a thin layer of dust, so I used P&S Absolute to quickly wipe down the surface. I too thought about if Absolute was leaving anything on the surface. However, I don’t think I was as concerned about this. I knew that I was going to follow up with a paint prep before installing the ceramic coating. I cannot imagine a quality paint prep not being able to remove anything left behind by the lubrication polymers inside P&S, or any other non-protective rinse-less for that matter. Therefore, a small amount of protection it “might” be leaving behind before a proper paint prep is a mute issue in my opinion. Personally, I am looking for great slickness in a rinse-less wash, as the slicker the surface, the less chance of wash marring. In the past, I have used ONR, Wolfgang Uber and most recently Absolute. I find Absolute to be the slickest on the contact wash and also in the drying stage. I also think P&S has better cleaning power than the other two products. I am very interested to find out the results of your testing to see if you come up with the same conclusions. Great work as always, Jon!!!
Hey Jon,
I've been an avid rinseless user since 2018 and I have tried nearly all of them. I'm a champion overthinker, so rest assured I have spent a lot of time using and analyzing these products. Of the lineup you have there, the only ones I have not tried are the Auto Glym and Carbon Collective as they are not available in the US.
I only regularly use rinseless washes that do not leave durable protection. My vehicles are ceramic coated and I like to leave the coatings bare with no toppers or other durable products that are going to mask or modify the performance of the coatings. In the group you have, the only ones that I would exclude from a prep wash process (before polishing or coating) would be the Gyeon and Labocosmetica. They are both leaving durable ceramic protection that can bond to the surface. The Gyeon version will probably last a month or two (depending on dilution) and Idrosave can leave 3-6 months worth of protection. It is the rinseless equivalent of a ceramic shampoo product.
Don't get too caught up in the marketing speak about "gloss and slickness," "preservation" or the flip side statement of "leaves nothing behind." The "leaves nothing behind" is a favorite tag line of DIY Detail and McKee's for their rinseless products. Both are fantastic cleaners and they do leave the surface very clean, however even they are leaving "something" in the form of a slight surfactant residue or non-durable polymer (both use an emulsion process to combine surfactants and polymers together).
ONR and Absolute are frequently targeted by the fans of DIY/McKee's as "leaving something behind." I have used both extensively throughout the prep and polishing process; as a wash product, clay lube, polishing pad cleaner (with a pad washer) and to dampen a towel for compound/polish removal. Any small amount of polymers left on the surface are readily removed by any IPA solution or other coating prep product. It is a non-issue.
Rrw and Hero are newer products to me that I have not used in a prep process yet, however I can confidently state that anything left on the surface by them is not durable at all. Any "slickness" or gloss left on the surface by them (or ONR and Absolute) lasts only a few days at best. It is gone by the next time you wash, or the first time you take it out in the rain. Rrw definitely feels lighter in that department, and leaves more of a squeaky clean feeling than Hero (which feels a bit more slippery). I definitely think that both could be used throughout the prep process, but I would only do so if I was out of ONR/Absolute or DIY. Rrw and Hero really excel as maintenance products, so I tend to reserve them for that purpose.
For the folks that are regularly using detail sprays, sealants and toppers after a wash, none of these are going to cause you any issues at all.
cool stuff jeff let me know about your favorites and why mate.
These protection layers are a none permanent layer built into its polymer package. It does wear off after a few days. These rinseless washes use an SIO2 backbone or structure without leaving an actual SIO2 protective layer, they are just harnessing some of the technology. With most of these rinse-less washes you can go straight to the polishing stage easily. Another usage these rinse-less washes can offer is a polishing pad clean. It'll encapsulate the polishing compounds much like dirt from the paintwork. Unless any of these products really address a protective package built in which not many have. Then there isn't anything permanent, you can ceramic coat once dry if it doesn't need a polish on a couple of brands there. I don't know about that for all of them. Labocosmetica Idrosave does have a nana sealant built in as you can clearly see on the bottle labelling. Idrosave is awesome 👌 Do not use too much Idrosave as it could cause minor problems. Alway stick to their recommendations. Some of these newer milky coloured RWs have a cosmetic grade surfactant package meaning they clean a little bit better before, plus they have been updated to not leave any 'forever chemicals' (PFAS) behind. I think next year of the next, chemicals need to adhere to a new standard, so there will be a change in most industries I'm guessing 🤷♂️
Would love to see garage therapy in the line up
Me too! Solid uk brand that’s under represented…
Nice to hear your well laid out thoughts in this video. Looking forward to the follow-up.
Although I am using rinseless (Absolute) every wash, my favorite use of it is when cleaning the windows of our house. Pre-spray with the electric sprayer when on the outside, then using a bucket + sponge (China lookalike of the branded ones). Then using a microfiber as a squegee or the windowvac (most of the time that one is out of battery) and then drying with the 'carwindow waffle towel'.
I sincerely enjoy cleaning windows now after having hated it for years. The waffle towel and rinseless together are working wonders on glass.
I currently use McKee's. Easily available and nothing left behind.
Will be following the results. 👍
One interesting property to test could be their foaming ability. When it’s really dusty I like to pre-soak with a pump foamer to get a bit more dwell time, although it requires a lot stronger dilution (around 1:30 with DIYv2)
I'd love to see a video where you go through how you'd spend your first X, then Y and then Z pounds, what products you'd prioritise etc utilising all these years of research you've done to put together the most effective kit lists for 3 or so budgets (you could do rookie, enthusiast and professional tiers and budgets that fit with them).
Would be a great set of videos which would be opinionated of course and not entirely looking at the ratings too.
In my personal experience ..
Rinseless principle goes the opposite direction of not leaving anything behind.
If the Rinseless has polymers in it to encapsulate the dirt and provide a layer under the dirt to protect the paint while cleaning.
Then there is something left behind and as an experiment I washed my car with ONR and I was traveling to other place, Suddenly it rained and the water on high speed was flying of the paint.
But this diminishes after 2-3 days.
So was DIY V1 but a bit less in the hydrophobic effect.. I don’t know about V2.
So personally I call it a temporary protection.. mainly to help during washing.
Nice lineup and I think you should keep idrosave 😊
Would also have loved to see Shiny Garage Rinse Free Eco Wash in the test (I like ❤️) as well as Carpro ECH2O (also a rinseless).
Cheers from Denmark
Hi John, never used waterless wash on my car but be interesting to see your results . Being able to wash my car in the garage in the winter months would be a bonus.
Also, during testing please please find out if the DIY Detail RW leaves something on the surface. Leaves my hydrophillic glass hydrophobic. Its marketed as a "wash & shine"
Please include Idrosave. Would be interesting to see how it handles in terms of streaking and finish.
You can exclude it for the final results.
it will be included
If will always leave something behind.... how long it lasts is dependant on the the chemicals. Labo is notorious for leaving a lot of polymer behind. My own homemade rinseless wash has added 'ceramic'... I want it to leave something as I never use it for prep, only for maintenance washes.
Do tell us what your homebrew is. I'm intrigued
@@pigeonpoo1823
90% Turtle Wax Waterless Wash
5% Turtle Wax Pure Wash
5% Turtle Wax Flex Wax
To make the concentrate.
Then I use this at 1:100 in a bucket with a Rag Co Ultra Safe Sponge
I’ve purchased the Autoglym Quik Refresh for under £5 previously from Amazon.
I know this will be my third reply, but feel like I have to say this John; around 33 minutes in you say something I have heard you say before about rinseless process vs regular. However the way Yves Lacroix is teaching does resemble the regular way a lot. Chemical (could be rinseless), rinse (/pressure washer) and then again chemical (rinseless).
There is not much difference in process then. So you don't rely more on hand contact with the rinseless to cover each spot, as you have already blasted most of the dirt off. Just as with your regular washea.
To test that theory (/the cleaning capabilties of a rinseless) half a car pre-treated with BH foam and half with rinseless would be very interesting.
I switch up depending on the mood/ time etc. between BH autofoam and Absolute for the first round of chemical.
I've been using CarPro Ech2o as a RW for many years, too finicky to get right as a WW, so I just use 2 oz to 4 gallons and it's always great👍👍
The Absolute is definitely leaving something behind. I really like that, as there is no need for a drying aid. And also not for or quick detailer/ gloss enhancer afterwards.
This is helping my bottle of Gyeon QD from being used every wash :)
My process: Pre-spray with BH Autofoam or Absolute, than rinsing with the pressure washer. And for the joy of it another time around the car with the electric sprayer filled with Absolute. Then the contactwash with only one bucket (saying this to prevent myself getting back to two buckets 🙈) and then drying with a towel with a little mist of Absolute in it. It is so glossy and slick after that! I'm not a chemist, therefore I would put on some panelprep before putting on a sealant. But I am really curious if indeed that would be necessary.
Yes, everything leaves "something" behind. But in the case of Absolute it is not durable at all. It just sits on top and won't bond to the surface, so it is gone by the next time you wash or take it out in the rain. If you are applying a sealant after, the carrier agents of the sealant will eliminate it.
i am very excited for the actual test vid
Oh here we go. Haven’t finished the video but I got Hero as No. 1, DIY V2, and Ethos!
From what I remember, the story on Labo was that when it was released they were claiming it didn't leave anything behind... but it did, so they had to add the sticker.
makes sense with why the nano sealant bit was a sticker... but yer I think as some of the other products its not clear if they leave stuff behind I think it wont interfere with the testing I have planned. so im gonna include it.
@@ForensicDetailing I hear it's very good if the protection is not a deal breaker. I only use rinseless for maintenance washes so it's fine for me. Labo also do a pair of rinseless specific pre washes (acid and alkaline) so a 3ph rinseless system.
about DIY and in general - 2 Gal equal 256 ounces ,so there is no need to convert to ml and then calculate the ratio ... by the way,DIY also announced V2 of rinseless ,from the color of the liquid yours already V2...
yes this is v2 mate ive waited for it to land. 1:256 is the ratio yer not the 1:266
It’s difficult Jon. I use ADS Hero from Imran and a US Gallon is £65 if memory serves so only £17’ish a litre.
Maybe it can change the feel and finish without leaving anything behind if it cleans really well
Would have loved to also see car pro echo2 (pretty old, hopefully they'll revisit it soon) and infinity wax zero water cause I see them everywhere.
Still, that's really a good lineup, really curious about the results!
When will the full video be out
Porsche is revealing the new GT3 live BUT, this has priority. :D
are they cool mate im gonna go watch thank you
2 US gallons is 256 US Oz so DIY is 1:256
but 2 US gallon is 7571ml and 1 fluid oz is 28.413ml there must be some error in the conversion because 256 fluid oz is 7273ml which then makes it 1:256. dunno. but it does not really matter. it would create a few varience in favor of DIY detail and it does not cause any shift in ranking on price so either way should be fine. But it you can figure out whats gone wrong here it would help me. Im guessing its a conversion inaccuracy within the various standards.
@@ForensicDetailing1 US fluid Oz = 29.57 ml, There are 128 US fluid Oz in a US gallon.
@@ForensicDetailing Yvan constantly mentions it is aways 256:1 (US backwards dilution ratio), so I would go with 1:256.
@@WolfAbarth the US fluid oz at 29.57 which makes the calculation 1:256. makes sense so Ill use 1:256 for this and ONR. So whatever FL Oz standard I was using must be different or wrong. (thank you colin)
@@ForensicDetailing I think Yvan had some comments on it on video, but it summed up as it 4ml per liter or 256:1 for simplicity.
Please keep Labo in the test. Best of the best test needs as many options as possible.
You must try Infinity Wax Zero water, it’s great !
@@YakAlien really? It was slick, good at pulling dirt from a sponge but utterly hopeless for cleaning the car. I definitely wouldn't buy it again. Try Garage Therapy Rinseless. Not the slickest, but very good at cleaning
I've got 6 of the finalists, 1 I just finished up last month (Absolut) 🤷♂️📣
Ultima Waterless wash plus concentrate, ethos hybrid ceramic rinseless wash, owners pride eco wash and carpro ech2o these would make an awesome addition to your test. Thumbs up if you agree 👍
looking forward to it! surprised theres no carpro ech2o tho
yer that prolly should be there but it didnt come up in the chat but yer I agree. unfortunetly we really are at capacity.
I will be buying the winner.
Yvan from DIY repeatedly says their rinseless is diluted 1:256, in pretty much every video.
Correct or 4ml/litre.
yes he is right. we will go on 1:256 its the Fluid oz value I used that threw it.
please also include clean by pan and detail co.
What about detail do nemesis…. Really good
im not sure if you can get it over here yet m8. Im also not sure if it would have made the lineup from the patreon feedback but Im interested to try them all so maybe one for the future.
Hey John, please can you include Clean by Pan line as well going forward, would like to understand how they stand against top brands..
its not out here mate but after this test it will be easier for me to bench mark stuff so can maybe pick up a bottle and test it later
I've always thought all that these retailers could make life so much easier if the just for example: 1 Lid full of each bottle = 5 litres this would just make life nice and straightforward, washing a car is not rocket science and should not include how to work out various ratios, its washing a bloody car, 1 lid full added to 5 litres makes a correct ratio, 2 lids full for 10 litres 3 lids = 15 litres nice easy maths, man maths.
no I dont want lids fulls. I want ratios. Beyond the ratio I have no problem with them then including lid of cap fulls in addition. But I want ratio. soon as I see ratio I know roughly how much to use. if I dont know I can work it out in a few seconds. But capfulls I have to start measuring stuff. and dosing stuff out in capfulls means I spill product and product runs all down my bottles etc... So no I disgree. Both fine. But Ratio is priority. ratio also instantly allows me to cross compare and place the product within the market.
Waterless wash just get your jet wash out and stop pissing about
Meguiar's Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax ????
ONR boasts about their dirt sedimentation performance in the bucket. Not so sure that's the most important factor in a rinseless
I used to buy into that, I don't think it is that big of a deal in practice. I've used DIY and other surfactant rinseless washes that leave the fine particulate suspended in the solution and have never had an issue with the right technique and wash media. The big grit that you really need to worry about should've already been taken off with a proper prewash, or worst case it will sink to the bottom of the bucket below the grit guard.
The cheapest per wash in the uk is Infinity Wax Zero Water, but its sh1t.
Next is Garage Therapy Rinseless, and its very good
Yer GT rinseless is great - would love to see it in the test 😢
PLEASE don't take the Idrosave from the test, Jon. Labocosmetica is my favorite brand!
no its in mate.
Yay!
Uk or US gallon ?
us gallon to ml i based it on.
@@ForensicDetailing watch out for the DIY Detail bottles leaking at the Seam at the bottom of the bottle.
Terrible way to clean a car 😂