Thanks Chris, I have a R90/6 1975 and a R100 RT . You are a mine of info and very entertaining :) I have drunk 3 cups of tea watching your videos this morning but then that's what we British do best.. Cheers joe
I'll cover Airhead wheel bearings at some point. They are a bit time consuming and challenging for the average person. When replacing the bearings you should have a collection of different sized shims as well. So, no you did not miss it and yes I will make a video of this process but it might be a while before I have to get into another Airhead wheel. Thanks, Chris
Hi Christopher, Re-packing is not necessary in most cases. If the head bearings feel good then leave the front-end alone. If the head bearings are 'notchy' they would need to be replaced. Going through all of that labor to just repack bearings that felt good prior to disassembly would be wasted time. Either leave them alone or plan on replacing them. Good luck with your R100RT, Chris
I have just found your vids, they are really great. Glad to see someone has the same problems with these bikes as I did with mine ( r80rt 1983), but I still loved the dam thing, until some prick stole her after 10 years of loving care by me. I must have done at least most jobs on it that you have covered on here I think the worst one must be getting the pre load right on the wheel bearings, and getting the fucking handling right. Anyway I'm thinking about getting a r1100rt in the future, so it's been nice to see what I'm letting myself in for in your vids. Thanks for posting them they are very useful.
Thanks! I'll be covering wheel bearings at a later date but yes, setting the pre-load is rather time consuming, to say the least. Happy New Year, Chris
In doing the stearing head is it mandatory to remove the bearings, rather than just repacking with grease? Great videos Chris. My spring will be occupied wrenching the R100rt
Hi Chris, I tried replacing my bearings on R80 1989 Monolever, the bottom bearing went straight in following you advice but it sits 2/3 raised from the bottom. I tried hammering it but that or the base plate won't move down those last 2 mm. Any idea or does it stay like that on R80s? Again any advice appreciated. Rahul
I enjoyed this video also. Did you make any on my 90 German K100RS? found some picks only...would also like some tips for winter storage on the same. Thanks, Dave
So in conclusion, you remove the pinch bolts and adjust the head bearings until there is no free play. Then you tighten the top center nut and everything is fine? I did it (what you said on the video) and still there is a free play. Am I missing anything? What about the top fork nuts? Should they be loose or tightened to specs when adjusting the head bearings? Thank you for your fine videos! They are really helpful!!
I love you Chris. Without your vids, my beloved rubber cow would piss oil and brake fluid all over herself. Would you say all that resistance from the cables is normal? I can't find a source on how they're laid factory style and the squeeching and rubbing is pissing me off...
You don't show how to get the outer bearing races out of the frame head tube! Also if you have the correct bearing puller set, you don't have to heat up the lower yoke (Engilsh biker here!) to remove the inner race from the stem. The same tool will also help you fit the new race and it's a tool that every Bike workshop should have. They're not expensive and can save you a whole world of grief! When I have to do head bearings in rain-soaked Britain, I always make sure I pack the head tube of the frame with more grease and make sure the steering stem has a good dollop of grease too. Over time that grease will fall to the bottom and make sure the lower bearing is always full of grease because this lower bearing is the one that is going to get the worst of any weather that nature can throw at your bike and these bearings always suffer far more than the top.
Thanks. Great. Now I must go over the head bearings I installed to my 90/6 project, 18 months ago.
Cheers from Brisbane.
Great tutorials Chris!!,expaining why you do something is a great help to learning how .
Geetings from Quebec ..
Nice one Chris. Keep these videos coming they are really useful
Thanks Chris, I have a R90/6 1975 and a R100 RT . You are a mine of info and very entertaining :)
I have drunk 3 cups of tea watching your videos this morning but then that's what we British do best..
Cheers
joe
Thanks Joe!
Thank you. I hope you enjoy them, Chris
I'll cover Airhead wheel bearings at some point. They are a bit time consuming and challenging for the average person. When replacing the bearings you should have a collection of different sized shims as well. So, no you did not miss it and yes I will make a video of this process but it might be a while before I have to get into another Airhead wheel. Thanks, Chris
Good video. Thanks for making them. Will watch all of them.
Hi Christopher, Re-packing is not necessary in most cases. If the head bearings feel good then leave the front-end alone. If the head bearings are 'notchy' they would need to be replaced. Going through all of that labor to just repack bearings that felt good prior to disassembly would be wasted time. Either leave them alone or plan on replacing them. Good luck with your R100RT, Chris
Thanks! Keep the suggestions coming.
I have just found your vids, they are really great. Glad to see someone has the same problems with these bikes as I did with mine ( r80rt 1983), but I still loved the dam thing, until some prick stole her after 10 years of loving care by me. I must have done at least most jobs on it that you have covered on here I think the worst one must be getting the pre load right on the wheel bearings, and getting the fucking handling right. Anyway I'm thinking about getting a r1100rt in the future, so it's been nice to see what I'm letting myself in for in your vids. Thanks for posting them they are very useful.
Thanks! I'll be covering wheel bearings at a later date but yes, setting the pre-load is rather time consuming, to say the least. Happy New Year, Chris
You are legend 😂😂 thx for the vid
In doing the stearing head is it mandatory to remove the bearings, rather than
just repacking with grease?
Great videos Chris. My spring will be occupied wrenching the R100rt
Hi Chris, I tried replacing my bearings on R80 1989 Monolever, the bottom bearing went straight in following you advice but it sits 2/3 raised from the bottom. I tried hammering it but that or the base plate won't move down those last 2 mm. Any idea or does it stay like that on R80s? Again any advice appreciated. Rahul
Thank you!
Thanks!
I enjoyed this video also. Did you make any on my 90 German K100RS? found some picks only...would also like some tips for winter storage on the same. Thanks, Dave
Hi Dave,
I will have your bike covered soon :) Happy New Year, Chris
Cheers!
So in conclusion, you remove the pinch bolts and adjust the head bearings until there is no free play. Then you tighten the top center nut and everything is fine? I did it (what you said on the video) and still there is a free play. Am I missing anything? What about the top fork nuts? Should they be loose or tightened to specs when adjusting the head bearings? Thank you for your fine videos! They are really helpful!!
have a good FUCKING day !
Snugness crucial for /5 swb I've found.
I love you Chris. Without your vids, my beloved rubber cow would piss oil and brake fluid all over herself. Would you say all that resistance from the cables is normal? I can't find a source on how they're laid factory style and the squeeching and rubbing is pissing me off...
Do you have a video of adjusting the steering head bearings on an R65? As usual, the parts are completely different from any other airhead.
I do not, good luck.
Very helpful.
Thanks!
You don't show how to get the outer bearing races out of the frame head tube! Also if you have the correct bearing puller set, you don't have to heat up the lower yoke (Engilsh biker here!) to remove the inner race from the stem. The same tool will also help you fit the new race and it's a tool that every Bike workshop should have. They're not expensive and can save you a whole world of grief!
When I have to do head bearings in rain-soaked Britain, I always make sure I pack the head tube of the frame with more grease and make sure the steering stem has a good dollop of grease too. Over time that grease will fall to the bottom and make sure the lower bearing is always full of grease because this lower bearing is the one that is going to get the worst of any weather that nature can throw at your bike and these bearings always suffer far more than the top.