This channel is a godsend, there's not enough videos in my country showing how to maintain this bike, and the few that are, are very brief, poorly explained and low quality.
I had read about the 6 gear being blanked out in the early 350A. Can you please share any article or pictures regarding how to remove the blanking and enable 6th gear again!
@@seventiesmetal8673 You can see in this video, sticker says 1-N-5 but in later videos you can see 6 pairs of gears in the box. If you look at the end of the shift selector drum, you’ll see the pins that the shift claws pull on to pull the drum round. One of those pins had a blanking piece on mine so the claw couldn’t grip it. Remove the pin, slip out the blank, refit the pin, voila 6 gears! You’ll need to add a few teeth to the rear sprocket to make it useful though.
All your videos are great. I am doing a 1973 RD350 restoration and these videos are great reference material. Quick question - Where did you buy that 'Rotor pulling tool' from? Can't seem to find one like that anywhere.
Hi! I bought the tool at yambits.co.uk/rd350-flywheel-puller-cross-type-p-11616.html?osCsid=4gmt5g0n2q2985ulgqq2i9t853 But you can also use an ordinary m10 bolt (1.25 pitch) to remove the rotor. Just be careful, if you apply too much torque, the bolt can shear off. I did not want to take that risk, so I bought the tool. You can read up on using the m10 bolt here www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/camshaft-rotor-removal-73-rd350.72989/
One of the comments below from Seventies metal mentions using an M10 bolt instead of the rotor puller but that the bolt can shear, I used to remove the rotor with the bolt, screw it in till it's fairly tight and give the bolt head a sharp tap with a hammer, it worked for me every time I did it. Also some of the stripdown is easier with the engine in the frame, he hasn't got to it in this vid but the clutch centre nut is a real bitch, it must be about a million pound feet. Put the bike in a high gear and shove a hammer shank through the rear wheel to "lock" it, also the drive sprocket nut
Hi! The crankcase studs might be rusted and also there might be rust on gasket surface between the cylinder and crankcase. Try putting penetrating oil on the studs and gasket surface and leave it overnight. That might loosen the cylinder.
very nice video. love to watch all your nicely made long videos. it would have been better if you give a voice-over instead of music in all your videos. One thing I don't understand is that when we are opening the whole engine and taking out all the parts why should we worry about any part falling into the crankcase ? Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback, will consider using voice over. You are right, you should be careful and cover the crank holes with cloth while assembling the engine, not so important while taking apart the engine!
I used some flat punch and car trim remover to force it out. Was careful and tried not to scratch any surface. If stubborn, try to heat up the piston. This should help slide out the gudgeon pin easier.
Hi! If your motorcycle has been sitting idle for some years, the crank seals would have become brittle and gone bad. It’s good to replace all engine seals. 2 stroke engine runs well only when the seals are good and don’t leak air. I was lazy and tried to run the engine without replacing the seals. It never ran well. Now I am rebuilding my engine.
This channel is a godsend, there's not enough videos in my country showing how to maintain this bike, and the few that are, are very brief, poorly explained and low quality.
Doing a 1971 R5B. though it’s not exactly the same, it is similar enough that these videos help me tremendously. Thank you very much!
Superb video series- really appreciated helping me restore my ‘76 RD200. Thank you!
Grt video! I enjoyed it. The engine looks clean from inside. I wonder if an engine would ever be so clean from inside in India.
engine looked neat and clean
Very high quality video, keep up the good work🔥
Gosh my first bike!! Love my 350A! Great stuff! You can find 6th gear hiding in there too if you take out the blanking plug on the shift drum.
I had read about the 6 gear being blanked out in the early 350A. Can you please share any article or pictures regarding how to remove the blanking and enable 6th gear again!
@@seventiesmetal8673 You can see in this video, sticker says 1-N-5 but in later videos you can see 6 pairs of gears in the box. If you look at the end of the shift selector drum, you’ll see the pins that the shift claws pull on to pull the drum round. One of those pins had a blanking piece on mine so the claw couldn’t grip it. Remove the pin, slip out the blank, refit the pin, voila 6 gears! You’ll need to add a few teeth to the rear sprocket to make it useful though.
Ok! Thanks for the info, will try to remove the blank.
Great work .
Nice background music seventies metal…hehee
Great job 👏💯
Still have my 1974 rd350b 4k miles and as tight as a new bike 🏍 ❤
good job brother
Very good 👍
Where did you buy that rotor puller? Nice work and thanks for the video.
Rd 350 and rx 135 small end bearings are same or deferent.??
Plzz ans
I had the same bike , I had to split the motor because the lead weight in the crank fell out
All your videos are great. I am doing a 1973 RD350 restoration and these videos are great reference material. Quick question - Where did you buy that 'Rotor pulling tool' from? Can't seem to find one like that anywhere.
Hi! I bought the tool at
yambits.co.uk/rd350-flywheel-puller-cross-type-p-11616.html?osCsid=4gmt5g0n2q2985ulgqq2i9t853
But you can also use an ordinary m10 bolt (1.25 pitch) to remove the rotor. Just be careful, if you apply too much torque, the bolt can shear off. I did not want to take that risk, so I bought the tool.
You can read up on using the m10 bolt here
www.dotheton.com/index.php?threads/camshaft-rotor-removal-73-rd350.72989/
One of the comments below from Seventies metal mentions using an M10 bolt instead of the rotor puller but that the bolt can shear, I used to remove the rotor with the bolt, screw it in till it's fairly tight and give the bolt head a sharp tap with a hammer, it worked for me every time I did it. Also some of the stripdown is easier with the engine in the frame, he hasn't got to it in this vid but the clutch centre nut is a real bitch, it must be about a million pound feet. Put the bike in a high gear and shove a hammer shank through the rear wheel to "lock" it, also the drive sprocket nut
Hi any tips on getting the cylinders to come off? I’ve been trying to wiggle mine off with no luck
Hi! The crankcase studs might be rusted and also there might be rust on gasket surface between the cylinder and crankcase. Try putting penetrating oil on the studs and gasket surface and leave it overnight. That might loosen the cylinder.
very nice video. love to watch all your nicely made long videos. it would have been better if you give a voice-over instead of music in all your videos. One thing I don't understand is that when we are opening the whole engine and taking out all the parts why should we worry about any part falling into the crankcase ? Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback, will consider using voice over. You are right, you should be careful and cover the crank holes with cloth while assembling the engine, not so important while taking apart the engine!
👏👏👏💯💯💯👍
Do you know what tools you used to take out the circlip & gudjeon pin?
I used some flat punch and car trim remover to force it out. Was careful and tried not to scratch any surface. If stubborn, try to heat up the piston. This should help slide out the gudgeon pin easier.
@@seventiesmetal8673 wow thanks for replying back.Trying to fix a rd250 so your videos have been helping a ton. Thanks again!
In your opinion.. is it common for crank seals to go bad on these models.. great content...Subbed from Las Vegas !!!
Hi! If your motorcycle has been sitting idle for some years, the crank seals would have become brittle and gone bad. It’s good to replace all engine seals. 2 stroke engine runs well only when the seals are good and don’t leak air. I was lazy and tried to run the engine without replacing the seals. It never ran well. Now I am rebuilding my engine.
@@seventiesmetal8673 Will do.. thanks.
Can you make a video what all checks to do before 6 year unused rd 350
Main things to check and service:
1. Carbs
2. Oil pump if not using premix
3. Points ignition
Add aditional 2t oil to piston ?
Yes, that too, thanks for pointing it out!
Will you have to rebore?
I am getting my engine rebored to 0.5 mm oversize. It was 0.25 mm oversize before.
Have you rd350 speedometer?
No
@@seventiesmetal8673 then have you speedometers dails?
Great work! You there on instagram?
Sorry, I don’t use Instagram
Hi 🙋🏻♂️ are u a mechanic?
It’s my hobby!
Hey... Can you post a detailed video on setting/matching points.. 👍
Sorry, I am removing my points and installing a CDI. Won’t be able to make this video.
Ok... Than post a video on installation of CDI👍