Yep, my brother in law used to be a fencing contractor here in South Australia and actually replaced all the fences in mine and my Ex's backyard with steel posts and rails, and corrugated iron sheets...pretty much what you see around most of Australia.
Ok, the mistake with this "review" is that the Bunnings video is simply about installing the panels, NOT building a colorbond fence. Two different things. Had the video been about building a fence there would have been string lines, hole digging, retaining wall drilling and concreting (usually quickset) and, colorbond is steel, not aluminium.
I own and run a fencing business here in Australia, we install Colorbond all the time. Normally that first post would be cleated to the building to give it the rigidity you were talking about. We use a Milwaukee bandsaw to cut the posts/rails, and the Milwaukee sheers to cut the sheets. There is no aluminium in the Colorbond installs, they are all powdercoated steel. Although you can get aluminium sleepers for underneath. One last thing, we cut the tops of our posts so they are about 25mm above the top rail to fit the caps and give it a clean finished look.
Gday fellow Aussie here haha Yeh I've never really seen any fence done like this, bunnings videos are for the average diy person, like they didn't show setting posts etc either. They're not professional installers by any means though unlike the above comment.
@@callanmurphy9807 And be mindful that there is cheap imported crap that certain places will sell you. Always check the gauge and realise that the good old Aussie made is a better rolled sheet initially before dipping and then painting. Keep those jobs in Australia.
As an ex fencing contractor in Australia, 1 NEVER EVER cut the sheets with an angle grinder, they will rust from the hot sparks burning through the powder coating exposing the tin sheets underneath. 2 Use shears to cut the sheets, I used to use air sheers or nibbler. 3 Use a metal drop saw to cut the rails 4 The top rail should be level with the top of the post. The cap is moulded to fit over the rail for a much neater finish.
colour bond fencing in Australia , all upright post right posts and cross members are usually a zinc coated steel which is then powder coated to the colours supplied as is the sheets of iron , and concreted into the ground , and as you suggested , i would personally normally put the top rail more in line with the top of the post , the benefits of the colour bond fence is there is 3 sheets of iron in each panel and they can be removed and replaced as/and if required by just removing the top rail . (the reason for those posts being as loose as they are , Bunnings is a major hardware chain offering DIY video clips and i would almost guarantee that after the video was made the fence was removed )
@@JoeEverest also. another way they are sometimes finished is with a ~6" tall section of lattice work along the top, you would leave the posts longer for that, but in this video they are not quite long enough.
@@myopinion69420 After the 40 to 100K ( 60 miles) winds gust we just had, I got to fix a few in my neighbourhood, including my own. My mate across the street, took the opportunity to modify his fence. We raised them with treated pine sleepers and added extension pieces. Also to note: when over lapping the panels, one side of the panel has a lip running the length of it. The lip gets covered by the next panel, if you do it wrong the lip sticks out. We discovered that after 5 panels.
@@JoeEverest Although many fences in Aus are wood we generally prefer these kinds of fencing because we have harsh weather conditions and termites, both of which wreck havoc on wood.
as mentioned, this is a very basic 'how to' or DIY video by a Bunnings employee. It's known as a Colorbond 'Good Neighbor' fence because 1. it's very tough & hardwearing, 2. it looks identical on both sides, & 3. it comes in a variety of colors. You would certainly hire a professional to do a proper job, but the materials can be bought through most Bunnings outlets (and other fencing distributors).
Aussie here. The whole ethos of Bunnings is to go for a bbq sausage (a "snag" as we say) on Saturday morning and walk out with shit you don't need. If you want to build a fence you'd go to your relevant supplier. Fences are built differently in different states of Australia. Queensland has lots of Colorbond and expanded mesh/chain link (because termites). Down here in Victoria we have 6ft pine slats on hardwood post and rail. But if you're ethnic, the only answer is TRIPLE BRICK.
Is that why wood isn't used? Termites? I didn't know that. Someone said to me once it was because the hot sun would wreck the wood, but that didn't seem right to me.
@@maewest68 Termites are definitely the reason in Western Australia. You never see wooden houses or fences there, and you apply a termite treatment to brick houses if you're using wood in the roof. Meanwhile wood is used everywhere for buildings and fences in states like Tasmania where there is no termite problem.
Colorbond last a lifetime easy, and the range and options are amazing! Older timber fencing lifespan is around 20-30 years depending on location climate, newer timber fencing probably less from my observations.
It should be noted that Bunnings (like Mitre 10 in the NZ video) is basically like Home Depot, and these videos are instructions for home DIYers, and not professional fence installers. Hence the use of minimal tools, and certainly not a portable bandsaw. A professional colour bon fence, while very similar, is usually a fair bit more sturdy.
@@maewest68 The Bunnings website shows a price of $112.00 to $117.00 per panel. That's roughly £56.00 to £60.00 per panel of three sheets, two uprights, top and bottom rails.
The Bunnings sold unit is Lysaght, which is a subsidiary of Bluescope steel. The components are all genuine Colorbond, and are the same as what is used by professional fence installers. The difference between DIY and Professional is in the small details, such as overall fitment, level, alignment etc, and the time it takes to build. A professional will do it in half the time and provide a neater finish. If done per the OEM instructions, a DIY fence will be just as sturdy as the professionally installed unit. That said, I do it myself because I can, and I have other things to spend my money on.
Back in the early 1990s Sydney had some really bad bush fires that got right into a lot of suburbs that bordered on bushland. When the fires came to houses surrounded by colourbond steel fences they were stopped a lot of the time. Embers could blow over the fences but the ground fire couldn't burn the fence (unlike wooden ones) and the steel actually reflected the heat which stopped houses catching fire from the radiant heat. It was quite amazing to see ground that was burnt black and covered in ashes on one side of a colourbond fence and green grass untouched on the other side.
As a Carpenter, who does quite a lot of fencing, we definitely use string lines, the posts where I live at least are all flush with the top of the sheet and we concrete the posts deep enough that they are ridgid.
Fellow Aussie here. Can say, in most installs **if not all** the posts are flush with the top of the fence. As for the wobbly posts thatll be simply because this would have been a demo by Bunnings and probaly torn down afterwards. Only time posts may be higher would be for "privacy screens" or whatever there called.
We don’t leave the posts high, cut them level. The sheeting is mild steel and 1.2mm post are same material. Use the string line to cut the posts level then follow basically what grandad did. Nibbler is generally used to cut on site.
I’ve never seen posts sticking up like that. In my area 90 percent of fences are Colorbond. They are cheap and durable. Virtually no maintenance. My builder told me he put in his first Colorbond fence back in the mid 90’s and said it is still going strong. By comparison our hardwood fence only lasted 15 years. I’m always amazed how quickly good installers can put up fencing. Posts in one day, panelling the next. We had a panel accidentally damaged about two years after the fence was built. The fencer took 5 minutes to fix it and just asked me to pay for the panel - no labour cost. Great system.
I helped a friend build a 60m long colourbond fence back in 1994 and it still looks as good as new. I moved into a house back in 2007 that just had a 120m long fence along the driveway. It still looks as good as new except for where tree branches and cars have damaged parts of the fence but easily repaired. Also for some reason spiders love to set up house along each corrugation. Between each 6’ x 8” corrugation I counted an average of 15 individual spiders. The only issue that I see is that the bottom rail fills with dirt, gravel, grass clippings etc. I haven’t seen rust in any of the rails or panels as yet.
Hi Joe, what you call a gravel board we call it a plinth board. They should be used if one or both sides of the fence is garden bed. They are made of treated pine in 50mm x 200mm, and like in the vid are painted before installation. They keep the bottom rail (channel) high above the soil to minimize corrosion. Also yes always use a string line.
They didn't use a string line as they were only demonstrating how to install the infills, normally a string line is used for the posts, I installed our colorbond fence over 35 years ago and it is still like new, ours is angled to align with the slope of the land and I used a angle grinder to cut the posts and sheets. The top rails are always flush with the top of the posts unless a decorative topping such a lattice (also made of colorbond steel) is to be added to the top of the fence.
'Colourbond' is all steel and the posts are concreted into the ground by at least 600mm. Also, the fence we installed about sixteen years ago, which is identical to this one, had colour-matched rivets fixing the sheets together at the overlap. Fence is still standing, btw!!
Would you advocate coating the post in something like Ormonoid or similar butuminous coating at and slightly above ground level before inserting into the concrete. I might do that soon.
John Brown, it depends on the soil and climate but it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I live in a fairly dry region well away from the coast and corrosion doesn't seem to be a problem yet. I presume the powder coating is an effective anti-corrosion coating in itself but, if you live on the coast with predominantly onshore winds, some extra protection would be worth the spend. Incidentally, we set the posts in the holes and stayed them with steel tent pegs and ropes before pouring the concrete mix in, which I would recommend, especially if you're using quick-set cement.
@@jonlowing7907 Well I am far enough from the sea to have no worries there, got to convince my neighbour that we REALLY have to do it soon, I am in the Melbourne sandbelt.
@@adoreslaurel Look for a bagged concrete that has an additive that prevents reactions between normal concrete and the post. Concrete can contain acid like substances which can attack the coating and post over time.
Had an old black and decker ( like jig saw) with counter rotating blades. Made cutting sheet metal a breeze. At our local coparts yards use galv posts or postmaster and use colored galvalume.
5:42 - looks like they have just dummied it up for the demonstration but the uprights are normally concreted into the ground. There is no movement when installed properly
Mum & Dad installed a color bond fence around the property 31 years ago and it still looks as good now as when it was installed, top stuff "COLOR BOND FENCING AND ROOFING"
If it’s similar to metal roofing or siding (which believe it is, imo) we use cordless shears, nibblers, and even Circ saws all with correct blade (of course) for a good cut. Just our preference & believe Kyle at RR buildings does the same/similar…..
In this system the panels are secured by the top and bottom brackets only. Even though they are overlapped when multiple panels are being installed, a sudden strong wind can bend the panel and pop it out of the frame. The last thing you want is a metal sheet like that flying around in strong winds! This is specially possible in taller fences. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts about how to fix this issue.
Hi from Australia…… At Bunnings this is in a small area where they do temporary where you can do DYI how to classes ( they then take them down Putting in posts is a different class
My Colourbond Fence has been up for 25 years with zero maintenance 150 meters from the beach in a known Termite area. The only things needed are de-cobwebbing and washing mould off on south facing panels due to condensation. Other down sides are... Noisy when stuck. (They crash when hit and ring when line trimming) Condensation. Because they are metal, the night air condensates and produces mould.
Here in Australia this is a massively popular fence it called a good neighbor fence it's very Ridgid and strong looks the same from both sides hence good neighbor
I worked for a land developer 10 years ago who insisted that the coverants stated Colorbond was not to be used in their estates - “lapped and capped” treated pine was to be used. Those fences have not stood the test - they are now being replaced. I notice the new covenants for this developed allow CB fencing but specify the colour. The pine fences are being replaced with Colorbond - probably at half the price of the wooden crap even 10 years later.
This is a part 2 video. Part 1 was installing the posts. That is when the string line was used. The fence is BHP colourbond which has a zincalume (zinc aluminium) coating under the paint. Yes, the base boards are aluminium. But the posts are steel. Colourbond is the most popular fence we use in Australia. I live in Sydney, it is sub tropical. No snow or ice in winter. We used to use hardwood fencing. But they suffer from rotting and warping over time. My colourbond fence went up in 1986 and is still going strong in 2024. I think that life is OK. We also have very active termites so softwood fences must be treated pine. Very toxic timber... Love your work. You obviously know your fencing in your market and climatic conditions. Colourbond is a cost effective and durable system. But like any fencing system, it must be installed properly to last. 😊
Bunnings is our Home Depot essentially. But they do some DIY videos for social media. This video isn’t exactly the best representation of colour bond fence installation. It is definitely targeted towards a DIY person. Normally the posts aren’t high like that. The cap actually is supposed to sit snug on the top rail as well. Colorbond steel is specially formulated. It’s not just aluminium. It’s called Zincalume. It’s light weight, it’s strong and it’s durable. My only problem with this type of system is that you can easily damage the panels. However, they are cheap and easy to replace.
Colourbond is a brand , it's steel sheeting ( zincallume ) fencing comes with posts & rails that comes pre painted or coated . They do roofing & shed materials too . It's a brand of steel / aluminum / tin building materials . The post height is not typical , usually level or the colourbond system can come with a small lattice panel that sits on top of those panels Learn to a shoe the Nike way , steel is steel & shoelaces are shoelaces . Bunnings is Australias largest hardware store chain .... like a Home Depot in the USA .
@@JoeEverest ah yeah that makes sense. Im not a fencer myself, I just find your content rivetting for some reason ever since yt reccomended one of your videos, top notch content 👌
It's easier to step down the panels on a grade. You can angle the rails, but you have to cut the panels at the same angle top and bottom angle. If the customer wants to pay for that extra time. You will also need longer sheets to maintain your height. It's normally done on steeper grades.
I think you'll find that his choice of tools, and frequent use of the angle grinder for different tasks is that they are the kind of tools that an average Aussie handyman or woman would have in their garage. as you mentioned, certain other tools. e.g. bandsaw etc would be better but they are mostly the kinds of tool only professional tradesman would use.
Just watched this while a rainstorm is ravaging outside. I wonder the noise level of the metal fencing compared to wood. Keep doing these reviews. Always fascinating to watch.
We Aussies also have Colorbond house roofs lying in bed of a night listening to the rain on the roof in one of the driest countries on the planet is great .
We don't get 8 months of snow and ice in Australia. Were I live (Adelaide) we are barely get enough rain for minimal water usage. Bunnings is our version of Home Depot. No string line was just an oversight. Angle grinder with cutting wheel. Dealers choice for the top of the fence. The Colour-Bond fence is known as the Good Neighbour Modular Fence. Pre 1980's 99% of suburban fencing was post/rail fencing. Depending on your luck you either had post/rails on your side or flat/pails on your side. The house I grew up in had flat/pails. Massive disputes (Hatfields and Macoy style) happened over who got the post/rail side and sometimes still do in the older established suburbs. New suburbs have the modular fencing.
I mean this video covers the basics but there’s a few more tips to it then what has been said, as a licensed carpenter who’s work is 50% doing fences I’d love to make a video for you from start to finish showing everything to make the fence the best and most structural as possible, might buy myself a camera and forward you the video
@@JoeEverest hi Joe Alan here from the top dog fencing sydney Australia Here we build all types of fence and in regards to colorbond which is a steel product much the same as colorbond roofing range used widely throughout the country for roofing We say both roofing and aluminium and color in our own unique slang And like roofing us fences that install colorbond only use nibblers as they are quick ,neat ,and leave a clean cut. Grinding only introduces trouble by allowing it to rust quicker And if u don't clean up rusty spots from groundings within days They are flimsy but can be rock solid if used in conjunction with a 65x65mm post in powder coated steel especially if the fence needs core drilling as two channel posts put together won't fit into a 100mm hole without modifications Love your channel Keep up the good work
@@alanpappas8818 Al. Aussies say it correctly, it is the Yanks who differ from the proper English for both words. They like to be different. And it is important to note that Australian made COLORBOND is always dipped in ZincAlume (Zinc and Aluminium) before painting. Important for the life of the sheetig.
im in australia and have colorbond fencing all around the property . its long lasting and still looks good after all the years. Where my mum lives here in Australia the new estate doesn't allow them to be built because of all the different colours, so they have wooded fences and they sag all the time. cheers
If you leave the posts a little taller you have somewhere to attach the cat proofing. This is an axle with 3 or 4 full length horizontal vanes attached, as the cat (or other animal) tries to grab the top of the fence it spins and foils the attempt at climbing over.
Colorbond is all steel. They are prone to post twist in high winds and infill blow out. That is why you need to have reinforced posts in high wind areas.
Colorbond is an Australian invention having been first manufactured at the Lysaght's Springhill Works in 1966. The original John Lysaght company from England was the originator of galvanised sheet metal products. Colorbond was originally all the thicker section but much of the stuff used for fencing is imported and not the original thickness. Aluminium (Al) has a very different coefficient of expansion and will create issues if used with coated steel sheeting. Wuld recomment referencing the manufacturer's site.
If you freeze the picture when he puts the first cap on the post, you’ll notice that the two top caps are off about an inch to each other. Not sure if that’s because of an elevation change, although the bottom rails looked even, or pilot error.
I'd use a cold cut blade in a circular saw to cut the steel. Straighter cut than the grinder. But if it was a choice between a grinder and a reciprocating saw I'd choose the grinder for sure - the panels are too thin and flexible for a recipro saw. Rails and posts I'd cut with a grinder. I'm in Victoria Australia, I have a colorbond fence. Great product, steel not aluminium, but still very long lasting. Comes in a wide range of colours. Posts are concreted in, sometimes with an actual SHS post, sometimes just two end rails back to back. For this you'd use your stringline and level. Set your bottom rail with a level, and installing the panels is then straightforward. Posts you can cut close enough to the top rail to get the cap on, or you could run them long depending on the look you want.
lol i do fences in victoria, this bunnings video (although i guess would be fine for diy) if I did the fence this way I wouldn't expect the customer to wanna pay, i do like colorbond fences - each part ( posts, rails and sheets) and flimsy on there own the posts and rails can twist easy but onces correctly assembled they all support each other. also you mentioned about having middle rails.. yes on taller fences more solid insert posts are added and middle rails as if you use sheets that are too long the wind can blow them out easy
The posts are very strong but i would have secured it to he wall first with 2x rawlbolts/expand bolts and also he post on he other side then it would be rigid. You then trim the posts down to the top rail by cutting the tops off so it looks neat. this looks good and is strong. you cannot kick the panels out and it would take a lot of damage to collapse them to get them out. A 2mm thin cutting disk in a grinder is the best way as they can be straight cuts when you do this as your daily trade. Galvanised steel and Colourbond coated makes them last a lot longer than timberlap fencing (in your promo vid at the beginning) and minimal rust for 20-30 years if any at all.
G'day mate, I'm a DIYer (the kind of person the video you reviewed is aimed at) and have installed a couple of colorbond fences, and am currently part way through redoing my boundary on my new place. I'll note that my situation is that I live in the tropics where we have higher wind ratings, so the normal install that southerners would use doesn't cut the mustard up here. For cyclonic conditions (like a hurricane, but spins the other way) we have added stiffeners for the posts, a maximum of 2 or 3 sheets per panel (depending where you are) instead of the normal 4 allowed in other regions, can't use their gate system so you have to make your own, wider and deeper footing requirements, and we need to screw the rails to the sheets top and bottom at every ridge so a lot more screws are needed. Your initial assessment of rigidity is about correct, they are very flimsy when you're putting them together, but as soon as you put the top rail in (even before screwing) the increase in rigidity is very notable. Once screwed off fully they are extremely stiff. I have seen these hold up to Category 5 cyclones, and have seen them under flood conditions with over 1m of water at high speed. The flood did rip a few sheets at the bottom, but they bent out of the way and allowed the water through, meaning only that panel needed to be replaced afterwards. As for installing, I typically do it on my own, but a second person helping makes bumping the sheets into the bottom rail much easier. The only thing I can fault this system on is trying to put the panels in and the wind picks up while installing. Only had one sheet blow out, but it certainly makes you work harder for your beer. But given how many treated timber fences I've had to replace after only about 10 years due to dry rot or termite damage (yep, the treatment in the timber leeches out over time and they still get eaten), this is certainly my go-to fencing solution. Plus it really does look good once installed.
Colourbond is fairly common, very modular and adaptable if a little samey this has improved a little as their range has expanded but there are places in Australia where the termites will eat a wooden fence post out of you hand. there are a lot of decoctive touches available like trellis tops and the such and I'm pretty sure the company makes other style fencing using the same post and beam system
I've had my colourblind fence for over 20yrs, The posts are concretesd in. Grinder is more convenient tool to cut the metal. Never had a problem. This is a demo for diy but my fence was put in by a fencer. I had a car run into the fence, only had to replace a panel. My caps are flush with the fence. they used a laser level. Great fence
This is actually a sales advertisment for this particular fence panel product that they sell. I have built many fences including farm fences through to those around houses and using all types of products but would never use a Bunnings HowTo video as a guide for how to do something.
Colorbond fences are great, relatively fast to post and bottom rail up (and yes using string lines 😂😂😂😂), then as they show the sheets and top rail all slide in to posi, and once it's all installed the fence sheets are pretty rigid, the corrugations especially at the sheet overlaps, give some good enough mid "panel" strength, a panel of sheets usually being 2.4m or 8', will take a good hit from a soccer ball and the like, and is quite either side or neighbour friendly type of fence. The top rail usually finishes flush with the top of the post, so the need for caps is pretty well null n void. The gravel board, or more what we call an edging board, is more likely a composite material, as if it were aluminium you'd have the whole steel/aluminium corrosion issue. Either way it's a good well tested system that now adorns more backyards in Aus than the old traditional timber paling fences of days gone by. Enjoy your videos, keep up the great content. Cheers from Aus!!!!
Have built a few of these fences and they are very solid and secure… when done properly.. a little extra concrete per post and securing the end post to that brick wall would make it super tough.
Colorbond steel is made from a ZINCALUME core, a baked-on corrosion inhibitor and sealed with a tough painted finish. Normally the posts ARE the same height as the top rail. You always use a string line to set your posts. The end post was moving around way too much, it should have been fixed to the adjacent wall. For an 1800mm fence the post are usually 600mm into the ground as standard (further for sandy soils). The rigidity of the fence is quite good and a 130kg man can jump over a colorbond fence and it won't fail or be damaged. 25 year parts guarantee. Using a grinder can cause rust spots from swarf being deposited on the sheets. Grinders can be used and to avoid rust spots you need to wash the fence down with a hose on the day of installation. Nibblers are better to use but the swarf from a nibbler (little moon shaped filings) get into you b lots and work their way into your foot from underneath. Very annoying as you can't get them out and have to throw the boots out. **Irregardless is not the correct use of English. The ir- prefix means “not,” and if you add it to a word that already means “without regard,” you get “not without regard.” A double negative. Try saying regardless.
Great video regarding fencing. Few things about colorbond fences - very popular style of fencing in Australia. it is pre coloured Zincalume steel sheeting. Bunnings is not a very good demonstration of installation -only suitable for DIYers. I haven installing fencing in Australia for more than 32 years as a professional installer. Personally i don't use grinders to cut colorbond ( it will void warranty) , i use tin snips or metal shears for sheeting and a reciprocating or band saw, for the posts and rails. in high corrosive areas( such as coastal ) treat the cut ends with galvanised paint and touch up paint - Always blow or vacuum away any metal filings or scarf. As for the top of posts yes i don't like them sticking up , we keep ours are level with top rail. Overall great product to use , there are additional requirements for high wind areas and cyclonic conditions. It has been fully engineered to meet our requirements.
They would be using as little tools as possible, so people at home may have the tools they need already. Alot of colour bond fencers and roofers use electric shears/ band saws and grinders to cut the sheets/posts/rails. Bunnings isn't a good example of a professional job but good enough for diy
Hi Joe, I am a fencer in Australia over the last 15 years, building both wooden fence as well as colorbond fence. One of the most commence wooden fence built in Australia known as PALING FENCE. However, Colorbond fence has become very popular and a preferred choice by client due to the following, If built correctly as per the manufacture specification or recommendation the benefits are, 1: Low maintenance and rot and termite proof 2: Long lasting and does not require painting 3: Many choices of colours and profile However, there are some disadvantages if you, 1: Have small children who like kicking football or throwing cricket ball as the panel are easily dented. 2: Have your fence that is exposed to public walkway, often they can be easily targeted by graffiti lover or know as public nuisance. A few things that you picked up in the video clip were correct, 1: Manufacture does not recommend using angle grinder cut the panel or the post as this will lead to early rusting and void the warranty. 2: For neat appearance, the post cap should sit directly above the top rail with 3-5mm gab.
Metal Because of Bush Fires and the intense UV on any thing wood or plastic..... same as almost all window frames being metal or Alu in Australia Mine in parts are rusting with large holes at the bottom after years of close quarter contact whipper snip / weed whacking with the panel (. 50 year old house.). but in general they are good and solid .easy to slide in new panels however and there are Colourbond Rattle cans to do touch ups available from bunnings
I’m a Jane of all trades here in Australia ( meaning it’s just me and I do all of what the stereotypical man or jack of all trades around the home) haha but I’m looking at building a front fence myself and came across this post and it made my day. Good laugh as I watch each of your videos
G'day from down under. These fences really lack character. They suit inner suburban more modern homes. I use cca Copper Chrome Arsenic posts as they last 25- 50 years and are much cheaper to buy. It also allows for rails to be added for additional strength. Always cut posts down to fence height unless you intend to add a fence height extension later on. Great videos Joe, thanks mate
Mate, CCA posts are trash, and will not last more than 10 years. If you want a post to last that long then the only timber you will be looking at is redgum.
If you want a bit of "character" on a steel fence many councils have set up talented kids who will do a mural. Lots of others like to try their graffiti.
These instructional videos by binning hardware are not necessarily carried out by tradesmen or competent people.There’s quite afew mistakes made in this particular video but it covers basics I guess.
a bit of info on the system used here, the "posts", consist of two roughly U channels back to back, so where the first panel starts at the garage wall you only use a single upright. in this video it has not been attached to the garage wall yet. the only fasteners are in the back to back posts, and the top and bottom rails where they attach to the posts, a long run needs an occasional brace in high wind areas, aside from that it's a bloody rigid, non maintenance fence. regarding the angle grinder, Australia is no mans land compared to the range of tools available in USA, we can only now buy portable handheld bandsaws and they cost a bloody fortune, bunnings are a nationwide hardware sales chain, and their video's are aimed at people with the bare minimum tools, and most people have a drill & an angle grinder. i had this style of fence around my pool when i moved to country Victoria, when i found baby brown snakes around the pool filter and pump so i got rid of the pool, i cut the sheets down and made raised vegetable garden beds out of the top and bottom caps (both the same stuff) FYI: eastern brown snakes are common around my area, they are daytime hunters and the second deadliest snake on the planet.
I’m an Aussie and yes we would use a grinder normally these fence builder are from Bunnings Like your Walmart A lot of people put a 150 timber post between panels looks good
Back in 2011 we had a massive flood here in Victoria and in one regional town close to me, the river rose 10 ft up the back of the nearest house, and the lovely colour bond fencing in the main street was flattened. I think you'd cringe at our rural fencing but we've had wooden fences for decades until Colourbond came along. They do roofs, fences and general houses.
In NSW Colorbond is not considered appropriate for areas that a flood prone - ie where the is a chance of pressure from a flood current. Chain link fences are considered the best option. You still see CB fences being erected in these areas.
Wow, this system appears really smart and efficient! I think the grinder is a good choice. All aluminum, smart. I like it better than the chain link slat fill or other options. If the box stores like Lowes, or Home Depot carry this the fence companies will be suffering! Much better than the plastic fence or wood choices. I hope it comes to the USA!
Aussie here, it is a great product and the installation guys need to go back to plumbing 😂 my posts are set solid with no movement. Google Stratco fencing products. There the manufacture. Not aluminium but powder coated pressed steel. In 10 years not a a rust speck anywhere.
Not a bad looking fence. I think I would prefer a mixture that utilizes the top and bottom rails and cedar pickets, with “I” or “H” spacers to prevent warping and provide 100% privacy.
Best way to cut sheets is with a metal saw. Advantage is you can cut 3 sheets at a time when you need to cut a rake. Anything that makes sparks you run a risk of rust as the sparks weld themselves back onto the sheet. Another great way to cut is with a nibbler, also power snips, but both of these only do one sheet at a time
Use a grinder with a metal cutting blade. You can string a bit of fishing line between posts to stop the birds landing on top of the fence and shitting all over it.
I have a colorbond fence 40+ years old and have decided to paint it. Little dents etc are fairly easy to fix and panels relatively cheap to replace, I think it's 3 panels to a span between posts. But like others said, don't use Bunnings how to vids as a standard. You'd have to find a professional fence builders vid to see how it's done start to finish.
If you notice at the start, he is only saying how to install the rails and the panel sheets only, no mention of posts install or string lining. This isnt a very strong fencing system, you can easily kick it in, but it looks good, it's cheap and it last. As long as a car or a vandals don't run into it.
In case anyone hasn't already mentioned this the rigidity comes horizontally from the top and bottom cap rails and vertically from the corrugations in the sheet. These fences last for decades with little wear to show other than the paint fading or going a bit powdery. Also as others have already mentioned the end posts should have been fixed to the wall and fence it buts up against.
Don't use bunnings as an " how to" search for an Australian fencing contractors
Yep, my brother in law used to be a fencing contractor here in South Australia and actually replaced all the fences in mine and my Ex's backyard with steel posts and rails, and corrugated iron sheets...pretty much what you see around most of Australia.
Yeah watching a Bunnings tutorial is for weekend warriors. Embarrassing
That was my first thought. Bunnings is not a fencing contractor.
Bunning "experts" are people who can't make a buck working for themselves as subcontractors 🙄
@@tagicabeagles Always seek proof of "Made in Australia"
Ok, the mistake with this "review" is that the Bunnings video is simply about installing the panels, NOT building a colorbond fence. Two different things. Had the video been about building a fence there would have been string lines, hole digging, retaining wall drilling and concreting (usually quickset) and, colorbond is steel, not aluminium.
As you said, he explained the easy part after all the posts were precisely put into place, with no instructions.
Bunnings is to Australia and New Zealand what The Home Depot is to Canada, Mexico, and the USA, the big chain store.
I own and run a fencing business here in Australia, we install Colorbond all the time.
Normally that first post would be cleated to the building to give it the rigidity you were talking about.
We use a Milwaukee bandsaw to cut the posts/rails, and the Milwaukee sheers to cut the sheets.
There is no aluminium in the Colorbond installs, they are all powdercoated steel. Although you can get aluminium sleepers for underneath.
One last thing, we cut the tops of our posts so they are about 25mm above the top rail to fit the caps and give it a clean finished look.
Gday fellow Aussie here haha Yeh I've never really seen any fence done like this, bunnings videos are for the average diy person, like they didn't show setting posts etc either. They're not professional installers by any means though unlike the above comment.
@@callanmurphy9807 And be mindful that there is cheap imported crap that certain places will sell you. Always check the gauge and realise that the good old Aussie made is a better rolled sheet initially before dipping and then painting. Keep those jobs in Australia.
@@flamingfrancis yeh that's very true mate. 👍
@anon, this is the second video for this project. ✌️🇦🇺
As an ex fencing contractor in Australia,
1 NEVER EVER cut the sheets with an angle grinder, they will rust from the hot sparks burning through the powder coating exposing the tin sheets underneath.
2 Use shears to cut the sheets, I used to use air sheers or nibbler.
3 Use a metal drop saw to cut the rails
4 The top rail should be level with the top of the post. The cap is moulded to fit over the rail for a much neater finish.
Was just about to comment this identical thing! It's nuts how many tradesmen still don't know.
Quick question though, in saying the point with not using a grinder, wouldn't the drop saw do the same thing by creating sparks also?
@@callanmurphy9807 the drop saw directs most of the sparks away from the paint
@@davidpascoe8784 yeh fair point, just wasn't sure
We built fences for about 20 years and found on a job site cutting rails was easiest with a 5 inch cordless grinder and a thin 1 mm cutting disc.
colour bond fencing in Australia , all upright post right posts and cross members are usually a zinc coated steel which is then powder coated to the colours supplied as is the sheets of iron , and concreted into the ground , and as you suggested , i would personally normally put the top rail more in line with the top of the post , the benefits of the colour bond fence is there is 3 sheets of iron in each panel and they can be removed and replaced as/and if required by just removing the top rail . (the reason for those posts being as loose as they are , Bunnings is a major hardware chain offering DIY video clips and i would almost guarantee that after the video was made the fence was removed )
@@JoeEverest also. another way they are sometimes finished is with a ~6" tall section of lattice work along the top, you would leave the posts longer for that, but in this video they are not quite long enough.
@@myopinion69420 After the 40 to 100K ( 60 miles) winds gust we just had, I got to fix a few in my neighbourhood, including my own. My mate across the street, took the opportunity to modify his fence. We raised them with treated pine sleepers and added extension pieces. Also to note: when over lapping the panels, one side of the panel has a lip running the length of it. The lip gets covered by the next panel, if you do it wrong the lip sticks out. We discovered that after 5 panels.
@@JoeEverest Although many fences in Aus are wood we generally prefer these kinds of fencing because we have harsh weather conditions and termites, both of which wreck havoc on wood.
as mentioned, this is a very basic 'how to' or DIY video by a Bunnings employee. It's known as a Colorbond 'Good Neighbor' fence because 1. it's very tough & hardwearing, 2. it looks identical on both sides, & 3. it comes in a variety of colors. You would certainly hire a professional to do a proper job, but the materials can be bought through most Bunnings outlets (and other fencing distributors).
Aussie here. The whole ethos of Bunnings is to go for a bbq sausage (a "snag" as we say) on Saturday morning and walk out with shit you don't need. If you want to build a fence you'd go to your relevant supplier. Fences are built differently in different states of Australia. Queensland has lots of Colorbond and expanded mesh/chain link (because termites). Down here in Victoria we have 6ft pine slats on hardwood post and rail. But if you're ethnic, the only answer is TRIPLE BRICK.
Is that why wood isn't used? Termites? I didn't know that. Someone said to me once it was because the hot sun would wreck the wood, but that didn't seem right to me.
@@maewest68 Termites are definitely the reason in Western Australia. You never see wooden houses or fences there, and you apply a termite treatment to brick houses if you're using wood in the roof. Meanwhile wood is used everywhere for buildings and fences in states like Tasmania where there is no termite problem.
Triple brick and statuary
Colorbond last a lifetime easy, and the range and options are amazing! Older timber fencing lifespan is around 20-30 years depending on location climate, newer timber fencing probably less from my observations.
Triple brick 🤣🤣🤣🤣 love it, and don't forget the green green concrete backyard "grass", who needs to mow
It should be noted that Bunnings (like Mitre 10 in the NZ video) is basically like Home Depot, and these videos are instructions for home DIYers, and not professional fence installers. Hence the use of minimal tools, and certainly not a portable bandsaw.
A professional colour bon fence, while very similar, is usually a fair bit more sturdy.
Are they mega expensive compared to wood? I have never seen a metal fence here in the UK, except for ... school playgrounds and prisons.
@@maewest68 The Bunnings website shows a price of $112.00 to $117.00 per panel. That's roughly £56.00 to £60.00 per panel of three sheets, two uprights, top and bottom rails.
Always look for and demand to see that the product you are ordering is COLORBOND
The Bunnings sold unit is Lysaght, which is a subsidiary of Bluescope steel. The components are all genuine Colorbond, and are the same as what is used by professional fence installers. The difference between DIY and Professional is in the small details, such as overall fitment, level, alignment etc, and the time it takes to build. A professional will do it in half the time and provide a neater finish. If done per the OEM instructions, a DIY fence will be just as sturdy as the professionally installed unit. That said, I do it myself because I can, and I have other things to spend my money on.
Back in the early 1990s Sydney had some really bad bush fires that got right into a lot of suburbs that bordered on bushland. When the fires came to houses surrounded by colourbond steel fences they were stopped a lot of the time. Embers could blow over the fences but the ground fire couldn't burn the fence (unlike wooden ones) and the steel actually reflected the heat which stopped houses catching fire from the radiant heat. It was quite amazing to see ground that was burnt black and covered in ashes on one side of a colourbond fence and green grass untouched on the other side.
thats pretty cool and something I hadn't thought about.... great fire protection.
As a Carpenter, who does quite a lot of fencing, we definitely use string lines, the posts where I live at least are all flush with the top of the sheet and we concrete the posts deep enough that they are ridgid.
Fellow Aussie here. Can say, in most installs **if not all** the posts are flush with the top of the fence. As for the wobbly posts thatll be simply because this would have been a demo by Bunnings and probaly torn down afterwards. Only time posts may be higher would be for "privacy screens" or whatever there called.
What he's doing is the easy quick part of the job. He hasn't shown how to mark and set the posts, that's where you need string line and level.
First Bunnings video they show how to set posts and gravel guard
We don’t leave the posts high, cut them level. The sheeting is mild steel and 1.2mm post are same material. Use the string line to cut the posts level then follow basically what grandad did. Nibbler is generally used to cut on site.
I’ve never seen posts sticking up like that. In my area 90 percent of fences are Colorbond. They are cheap and durable. Virtually no maintenance. My builder told me he put in his first Colorbond fence back in the mid 90’s and said it is still going strong. By comparison our hardwood fence only lasted 15 years. I’m always amazed how quickly good installers can put up fencing. Posts in one day, panelling the next. We had a panel accidentally damaged about two years after the fence was built. The fencer took 5 minutes to fix it and just asked me to pay for the panel - no labour cost. Great system.
Power shear would be the first tool I grabbed to trim the panels, portaband for the rails and posts
I'd use a nibbler as using a grinder on a colour bond sheet will cause edge to rust
I helped a friend build a 60m long colourbond fence back in 1994 and it still looks as good as new. I moved into a house back in 2007 that just had a 120m long fence along the driveway. It still looks as good as new except for where tree branches and cars have damaged parts of the fence but easily repaired. Also for some reason spiders love to set up house along each corrugation. Between each 6’ x 8” corrugation I counted an average of 15 individual spiders. The only issue that I see is that the bottom rail fills with dirt, gravel, grass clippings etc. I haven’t seen rust in any of the rails or panels as yet.
How did he put the Posts in and sting line them
Hi Joe, what you call a gravel board we call it a plinth board. They should be used if one or both sides of the fence is garden bed. They are made of treated pine in 50mm x 200mm, and like in the vid are painted before installation. They keep the bottom rail (channel) high above the soil to minimize corrosion. Also yes always use a string line.
They didn't use a string line as they were only demonstrating how to install the infills, normally a string line is used for the posts, I installed our colorbond fence over 35 years ago and it is still like new, ours is angled to align with the slope of the land and I used a angle grinder to cut the posts and sheets. The top rails are always flush with the top of the posts unless a decorative topping such a lattice (also made of colorbond steel) is to be added to the top of the fence.
'Colourbond' is all steel and the posts are concreted into the ground by at least 600mm. Also, the fence we installed about sixteen years ago, which is identical to this one, had colour-matched rivets fixing the sheets together at the overlap. Fence is still standing, btw!!
Would you advocate coating the post in something like Ormonoid or similar butuminous coating at and slightly above ground level before inserting into the concrete. I might do that soon.
John Brown, it depends on the soil and climate but it probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I live in a fairly dry region well away from the coast and corrosion doesn't seem to be a problem yet. I presume the powder coating is an effective anti-corrosion coating in itself but, if you live on the coast with predominantly onshore winds, some extra protection would be worth the spend. Incidentally, we set the posts in the holes and stayed them with steel tent pegs and ropes before pouring the concrete mix in, which I would recommend, especially if you're using quick-set cement.
@@jonlowing7907 Well I am far enough from the sea to have no worries there, got to convince my neighbour that we REALLY have to do it soon, I am in the Melbourne sandbelt.
The Registered Brand name is COLORBOND. Be careful with imported substitutes.
@@adoreslaurel Look for a bagged concrete that has an additive that prevents reactions between normal concrete and the post. Concrete can contain acid like substances which can attack the coating and post over time.
A colourbond fence was installed at my mother's old place a good two decades ago. It's still there.
Had an old black and decker ( like jig saw) with counter rotating blades. Made cutting sheet metal a breeze.
At our local coparts yards use galv posts or postmaster and use colored galvalume.
5:42 - looks like they have just dummied it up for the demonstration but the uprights are normally concreted into the ground. There is no movement when installed properly
Mum & Dad installed a color bond fence around the property 31 years ago and it still looks as good now as when it was installed, top stuff "COLOR BOND FENCING AND ROOFING"
If it’s similar to metal roofing or siding (which believe it is, imo) we use cordless shears, nibblers, and even Circ saws all with correct blade (of course) for a good cut. Just our preference & believe Kyle at RR buildings does the same/similar…..
In this system the panels are secured by the top and bottom brackets only. Even though they are overlapped when multiple panels are being installed, a sudden strong wind can bend the panel and pop it out of the frame. The last thing you want is a metal sheet like that flying around in strong winds!
This is specially possible in taller fences. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts about how to fix this issue.
Hi from Australia…… At Bunnings this is in a small area where they do temporary where you can do DYI how to classes ( they then take them down
Putting in posts is a different class
My Colourbond Fence has been up for 25 years with zero maintenance 150 meters from the beach in a known Termite area.
The only things needed are de-cobwebbing and washing mould off on south facing panels due to condensation.
Other down sides are...
Noisy when stuck. (They crash when hit and ring when line trimming)
Condensation. Because they are metal, the night air condensates and produces mould.
Hi mate,being a long time Landscaper and Handyman,i would strongly suggest using a post stiffener,or a 65mm post to secure in any bad wind areas!
Here in Australia this is a massively popular fence it called a good neighbor fence it's very Ridgid and strong looks the same from both sides hence good neighbor
I live in Perth, Australia.
Colorbond fences are used everywhere here. It is a very good system, and I've never really seen them rust out.
I worked for a land developer 10 years ago who insisted that the coverants stated Colorbond was not to be used in their estates - “lapped and capped” treated pine was to be used. Those fences have not stood the test - they are now being replaced. I notice the new covenants for this developed allow CB fencing but specify the colour. The pine fences are being replaced with Colorbond - probably at half the price of the wooden crap even 10 years later.
I use a grinder to cut corrugated sheet metal as the reciprocating saw bends the metal to much .
This is a part 2 video. Part 1 was installing the posts. That is when the string line was used. The fence is BHP colourbond which has a zincalume (zinc aluminium) coating under the paint. Yes, the base boards are aluminium. But the posts are steel. Colourbond is the most popular fence we use in Australia. I live in Sydney, it is sub tropical. No snow or ice in winter. We used to use hardwood fencing. But they suffer from rotting and warping over time. My colourbond fence went up in 1986 and is still going strong in 2024. I think that life is OK. We also have very active termites so softwood fences must be treated pine. Very toxic timber...
Love your work. You obviously know your fencing in your market and climatic conditions. Colourbond is a cost effective and durable system. But like any fencing system, it must be installed properly to last. 😊
Bunnings is our Home Depot essentially. But they do some DIY videos for social media. This video isn’t exactly the best representation of colour bond fence installation. It is definitely targeted towards a DIY person. Normally the posts aren’t high like that. The cap actually is supposed to sit snug on the top rail as well. Colorbond steel is specially formulated. It’s not just aluminium. It’s called Zincalume. It’s light weight, it’s strong and it’s durable. My only problem with this type of system is that you can easily damage the panels. However, they are cheap and easy to replace.
Colourbond is a brand , it's steel sheeting ( zincallume ) fencing comes with posts & rails that comes pre painted or coated . They do roofing & shed materials too .
It's a brand of steel / aluminum / tin building materials . The post height is not typical , usually level or the colourbond system can come with a small lattice panel that sits on top of those panels
Learn to a shoe the Nike way , steel is steel & shoelaces are shoelaces .
Bunnings is Australias largest hardware store chain .... like a Home Depot in the USA .
7:31 I'm wondering wether those 2 panels should be level? There is at least a half inch between the 2 sides
@@JoeEverest ah yeah that makes sense. Im not a fencer myself, I just find your content rivetting for some reason ever since yt reccomended one of your videos, top notch content 👌
It's easier to step down the panels on a grade. You can angle the rails, but you have to cut the panels at the same angle top and bottom angle. If the customer wants to pay for that extra time. You will also need longer sheets to maintain your height. It's normally done on steeper grades.
I think you'll find that his choice of tools, and frequent use of the angle grinder for different tasks is that they are the kind of tools that an average Aussie handyman or woman would have in their garage. as you mentioned, certain other tools. e.g. bandsaw etc would be better but they are mostly the kinds of tool only professional tradesman would use.
Just watched this while a rainstorm is ravaging outside. I wonder the noise level of the metal fencing compared to wood. Keep doing these reviews. Always fascinating to watch.
Thanks Ron, I appreciate you watching!
We Aussies also have Colorbond house roofs lying in bed of a night listening to the rain on the roof in one of the driest countries on the planet is great .
We don't get 8 months of snow and ice in Australia. Were I live (Adelaide) we are barely get enough rain for minimal water usage.
Bunnings is our version of Home Depot.
No string line was just an oversight.
Angle grinder with cutting wheel.
Dealers choice for the top of the fence.
The Colour-Bond fence is known as the Good Neighbour Modular Fence. Pre 1980's 99% of suburban fencing was post/rail fencing. Depending on your luck you either had post/rails on your side or flat/pails on your side. The house I grew up in had flat/pails. Massive disputes (Hatfields and Macoy style) happened over who got the post/rail side and sometimes still do in the older established suburbs. New suburbs have the modular fencing.
I mean this video covers the basics but there’s a few more tips to it then what has been said, as a licensed carpenter who’s work is 50% doing fences I’d love to make a video for you from start to finish showing everything to make the fence the best and most structural as possible, might buy myself a camera and forward you the video
@@JoeEverest hi Joe
Alan here from the top dog fencing sydney Australia
Here we build all types of fence and in regards to colorbond which is a steel product much the same as colorbond roofing range used widely throughout the country for roofing
We say both roofing and aluminium and color in our own unique slang
And like roofing us fences that install colorbond only use nibblers as they are quick ,neat ,and leave a clean cut. Grinding only introduces trouble by allowing it to rust quicker
And if u don't clean up rusty spots from groundings within days
They are flimsy but can be rock solid if used in conjunction with a 65x65mm post in powder coated steel especially if the fence needs core drilling as two channel posts put together won't fit into a 100mm hole without modifications
Love your channel
Keep up the good work
Mate, do the same as all these other video posters do and you'll make a few bucks on the side.
@@alanpappas8818 Al. Aussies say it correctly, it is the Yanks who differ from the proper English for both words. They like to be different.
And it is important to note that Australian made COLORBOND is always dipped in ZincAlume (Zinc and Aluminium) before painting. Important for the life of the sheetig.
im in australia and have colorbond fencing all around the property . its long lasting and still looks good after all the years. Where my mum lives here in Australia the new estate doesn't allow them to be built because of all the different colours, so they have wooded fences and they sag all the time. cheers
Which council is that?
Strange rule.
@@OilBaron100 actually it wasn't council it was the new estate that she bought into
If you leave the posts a little taller you have somewhere to attach the cat proofing. This is an axle with 3 or 4 full length horizontal vanes attached, as the cat (or other animal) tries to grab the top of the fence it spins and foils the attempt at climbing over.
I would use electric nibblers to cut the panels
Colorbond is all steel. They are prone to post twist in high winds and infill blow out. That is why you need to have reinforced posts in high wind areas.
Colorbond is an Australian invention having been first manufactured at the Lysaght's Springhill Works in 1966.
The original John Lysaght company from England was the originator of galvanised sheet metal products.
Colorbond was originally all the thicker section but much of the stuff used for fencing is imported and not the original thickness. Aluminium (Al) has a very different coefficient of expansion and will create issues if used with coated steel sheeting.
Wuld recomment referencing the manufacturer's site.
Good to know, I appreciate the detailed insight!
If you freeze the picture when he puts the first cap on the post, you’ll notice that the two top caps are off about an inch to each other. Not sure if that’s because of an elevation change, although the bottom rails looked even, or pilot error.
When you’ve done the fences a couple of times this so easy to do
I'd use a cold cut blade in a circular saw to cut the steel. Straighter cut than the grinder. But if it was a choice between a grinder and a reciprocating saw I'd choose the grinder for sure - the panels are too thin and flexible for a recipro saw. Rails and posts I'd cut with a grinder.
I'm in Victoria Australia, I have a colorbond fence. Great product, steel not aluminium, but still very long lasting. Comes in a wide range of colours.
Posts are concreted in, sometimes with an actual SHS post, sometimes just two end rails back to back. For this you'd use your stringline and level. Set your bottom rail with a level, and installing the panels is then straightforward. Posts you can cut close enough to the top rail to get the cap on, or you could run them long depending on the look you want.
lol i do fences in victoria, this bunnings video (although i guess would be fine for diy) if I did the fence this way I wouldn't expect the customer to wanna pay, i do like colorbond fences - each part ( posts, rails and sheets) and flimsy on there own the posts and rails can twist easy but onces correctly assembled they all support each other.
also you mentioned about having middle rails.. yes on taller fences more solid insert posts are added and middle rails as if you use sheets that are too long the wind can blow them out easy
this is not how a subbie would install a fence in Australia ! this is the Bunnings DIY way .
I dun a fence once..parts of it are still up.
The posts are very strong but i would have secured it to he wall first with 2x rawlbolts/expand bolts and also he post on he other side then it would be rigid. You then trim the posts down to the top rail by cutting the tops off so it looks neat. this looks good and is strong. you cannot kick the panels out and it would take a lot of damage to collapse them to get them out. A 2mm thin cutting disk in a grinder is the best way as they can be straight cuts when you do this as your daily trade. Galvanised steel and Colourbond coated makes them last a lot longer than timberlap fencing (in your promo vid at the beginning) and minimal rust for 20-30 years if any at all.
Using a Bunnings tutorial video for building is like using McDonald's for gourmet cooking
G'day mate, I'm a DIYer (the kind of person the video you reviewed is aimed at) and have installed a couple of colorbond fences, and am currently part way through redoing my boundary on my new place. I'll note that my situation is that I live in the tropics where we have higher wind ratings, so the normal install that southerners would use doesn't cut the mustard up here. For cyclonic conditions (like a hurricane, but spins the other way) we have added stiffeners for the posts, a maximum of 2 or 3 sheets per panel (depending where you are) instead of the normal 4 allowed in other regions, can't use their gate system so you have to make your own, wider and deeper footing requirements, and we need to screw the rails to the sheets top and bottom at every ridge so a lot more screws are needed. Your initial assessment of rigidity is about correct, they are very flimsy when you're putting them together, but as soon as you put the top rail in (even before screwing) the increase in rigidity is very notable. Once screwed off fully they are extremely stiff. I have seen these hold up to Category 5 cyclones, and have seen them under flood conditions with over 1m of water at high speed. The flood did rip a few sheets at the bottom, but they bent out of the way and allowed the water through, meaning only that panel needed to be replaced afterwards. As for installing, I typically do it on my own, but a second person helping makes bumping the sheets into the bottom rail much easier. The only thing I can fault this system on is trying to put the panels in and the wind picks up while installing. Only had one sheet blow out, but it certainly makes you work harder for your beer. But given how many treated timber fences I've had to replace after only about 10 years due to dry rot or termite damage (yep, the treatment in the timber leeches out over time and they still get eaten), this is certainly my go-to fencing solution. Plus it really does look good once installed.
Colourbond is fairly common, very modular and adaptable if a little samey this has improved a little as their range has expanded but there are places in Australia where the termites will eat a wooden fence post out of you hand. there are a lot of decoctive touches available like trellis tops and the such and I'm pretty sure the company makes other style fencing using the same post and beam system
I've had my colourblind fence for over 20yrs, The posts are concretesd in. Grinder is more convenient tool to cut the metal. Never had a problem. This is a demo for diy but my fence was put in by a fencer. I had a car run into the fence, only had to replace a panel. My caps are flush with the fence. they used a laser level. Great fence
This is actually a sales advertisment for this particular fence panel product that they sell. I have built many fences including farm fences through to those around houses and using all types of products but would never use a Bunnings HowTo video as a guide for how to do something.
Colorbond fences are great, relatively fast to post and bottom rail up (and yes using string lines 😂😂😂😂), then as they show the sheets and top rail all slide in to posi, and once it's all installed the fence sheets are pretty rigid, the corrugations especially at the sheet overlaps, give some good enough mid "panel" strength, a panel of sheets usually being 2.4m or 8', will take a good hit from a soccer ball and the like, and is quite either side or neighbour friendly type of fence. The top rail usually finishes flush with the top of the post, so the need for caps is pretty well null n void. The gravel board, or more what we call an edging board, is more likely a composite material, as if it were aluminium you'd have the whole steel/aluminium corrosion issue.
Either way it's a good well tested system that now adorns more backyards in Aus than the old traditional timber paling fences of days gone by.
Enjoy your videos, keep up the great content. Cheers from Aus!!!!
I’d use snips or a powered snips for the panel and a portaband for the posts.
Isn’t it bad to cut the colour bond with a grinder. Won’t the cut rust out ?
Have built a few of these fences and they are very solid and secure… when done properly.. a little extra concrete per post and securing the end post to that brick wall would make it super tough.
Colorbond steel is made from a ZINCALUME core, a baked-on corrosion inhibitor and sealed with a tough painted finish. Normally the posts ARE the same height as the top rail. You always use a string line to set your posts. The end post was moving around way too much, it should have been fixed to the adjacent wall. For an 1800mm fence the post are usually 600mm into the ground as standard (further for sandy soils). The rigidity of the fence is quite good and a 130kg man can jump over a colorbond fence and it won't fail or be damaged. 25 year parts guarantee. Using a grinder can cause rust spots from swarf being deposited on the sheets. Grinders can be used and to avoid rust spots you need to wash the fence down with a hose on the day of installation. Nibblers are better to use but the swarf from a nibbler (little moon shaped filings) get into you b lots and work their way into your foot from underneath. Very annoying as you can't get them out and have to throw the boots out.
**Irregardless is not the correct use of English. The ir- prefix means “not,” and if you add it to a word that already means “without regard,” you get “not without regard.” A double negative. Try saying regardless.
Great video regarding fencing. Few things about colorbond fences - very popular style of fencing in Australia. it is pre coloured Zincalume steel sheeting. Bunnings is not a very good demonstration of installation -only suitable for DIYers. I haven installing fencing in Australia for more than 32 years as a professional installer. Personally i don't use grinders to cut colorbond ( it will void warranty) , i use tin snips or metal shears for sheeting and a reciprocating or band saw, for the posts and rails. in high corrosive areas( such as coastal ) treat the cut ends with galvanised paint and touch up paint - Always blow or vacuum away any metal filings or scarf. As for the top of posts yes i don't like them sticking up , we keep ours are level with top rail. Overall great product to use , there are additional requirements for high wind areas and cyclonic conditions. It has been fully engineered to meet our requirements.
They would be using as little tools as possible, so people at home may have the tools they need already.
Alot of colour bond fencers and roofers use electric shears/ band saws and grinders to cut the sheets/posts/rails.
Bunnings isn't a good example of a professional job but good enough for diy
high tensiles sheet i scribe bend it and snap it of no burs no burning on the color bond
This was fun! Great stuff Joe!
Around my area these were the first things to blow over in strong winds-also bunnings vids are very DIY Motivated
Hi Joe,
I am a fencer in Australia over the last 15 years, building both wooden fence as well as colorbond fence.
One of the most commence wooden fence built in Australia known as PALING FENCE.
However, Colorbond fence has become very popular and a preferred choice by client due to the following,
If built correctly as per the manufacture specification or recommendation the benefits are,
1: Low maintenance and rot and termite proof
2: Long lasting and does not require painting
3: Many choices of colours and profile
However, there are some disadvantages if you,
1: Have small children who like kicking football or throwing cricket ball as the panel are easily dented.
2: Have your fence that is exposed to public walkway, often they can be easily targeted by graffiti lover or know as public nuisance.
A few things that you picked up in the video clip were correct,
1: Manufacture does not recommend using angle grinder cut the panel or the post as this will lead to early rusting and void the warranty.
2: For neat appearance, the post cap should sit directly above the top rail with 3-5mm gab.
Metal Because of Bush Fires and the intense UV on any thing wood or plastic..... same as almost all window frames being metal or Alu in Australia Mine in parts are rusting with large holes at the bottom after years of close quarter contact whipper snip / weed whacking with the panel (. 50 year old house.). but in general they are good and solid .easy to slide in new panels however and there are Colourbond Rattle cans to do touch ups available from bunnings
do you go to the big box store or wall mart for your advice? we wouldn't go to bunnings here in Australia either.
Bunnings is the equivalent to Walmart.
You watched a Walmart employee build a fence.
I’m a Jane of all trades here in Australia ( meaning it’s just me and I do all of what the stereotypical man or jack of all trades around the home) haha but I’m looking at building a front fence myself and came across this post and it made my day. Good laugh as I watch each of your videos
Thanks for watching, welcome to the #fencefam!
It’s a lot more robust than you would imagine it is. We use the same stuff for our roofs also.
Reciprocating saw does not work because the colourbond sheet is too thin, it grabs. I use an hydraulic/electric sheer, like a power tool tin snips.
those metal fences will dent a lot easier than any timber
Cutting colourbond panel - grinder with 1mm cutting disc. Reciprocating saw tears and burrs the edge. Posts can be cut down
G'day from down under. These fences really lack character. They suit inner suburban more modern homes. I use cca Copper Chrome Arsenic posts as they last 25- 50 years and are much cheaper to buy. It also allows for rails to be added for additional strength. Always cut posts down to fence height unless you intend to add a fence height extension later on. Great videos Joe, thanks mate
Mate, CCA posts are trash, and will not last more than 10 years. If you want a post to last that long then the only timber you will be looking at is redgum.
If you want a bit of "character" on a steel fence many councils have set up talented kids who will do a mural. Lots of others like to try their graffiti.
Looks like a vid made by the store themselves as a tutorial, I bet the guys doing it day in day out do it a little different
You are absolutely correct.
These instructional videos by binning hardware are not necessarily carried out by tradesmen or competent people.There’s quite afew mistakes made in this particular video but it covers basics I guess.
a bit of info on the system used here, the "posts", consist of two roughly U channels back to back, so where the first panel starts at the garage wall you only use a single upright. in this video it has not been attached to the garage wall yet.
the only fasteners are in the back to back posts, and the top and bottom rails where they attach to the posts, a long run needs an occasional brace in high wind areas, aside from that it's a bloody rigid, non maintenance fence.
regarding the angle grinder, Australia is no mans land compared to the range of tools available in USA, we can only now buy portable handheld bandsaws and they cost a bloody fortune, bunnings are a nationwide hardware sales chain, and their video's are aimed at people with the bare minimum tools, and most people have a drill & an angle grinder.
i had this style of fence around my pool when i moved to country Victoria, when i found baby brown snakes around the pool filter and pump so i got rid of the pool, i cut the sheets down and made raised vegetable garden beds out of the top and bottom caps (both the same stuff)
FYI: eastern brown snakes are common around my area, they are daytime hunters and the second deadliest snake on the planet.
🙋♀️ Hi Joe, we're in the US and import Colorbond fencing to the US. Love the video!
Good to know!
My father has this fencing and the posts run high so he could put an perforated panel so he could go higher than the allowable 6ft .
I’m an Aussie and yes we would use a grinder normally these fence builder are from Bunnings
Like your Walmart
A lot of people put a 150 timber post between panels looks good
Good to know!
Thats all well and good on level ground but what about some thing that isn't level.
Back in 2011 we had a massive flood here in Victoria and in one regional town close to me, the river rose 10 ft up the back of the nearest house, and the lovely colour bond fencing in the main street was flattened. I think you'd cringe at our rural fencing but we've had wooden fences for decades until Colourbond came along. They do roofs, fences and general houses.
In NSW Colorbond is not considered appropriate for areas that a flood prone - ie where the is a chance of pressure from a flood current. Chain link fences are considered the best option. You still see CB fences being erected in these areas.
As an Aussie who built fences many years ago, I used a string line then, but it was all wooden construction.
Wow, this system appears really smart and efficient! I think the grinder is a good choice. All aluminum, smart. I like it better than the chain link slat fill or other options. If the box stores like Lowes, or Home Depot carry this the fence companies will be suffering! Much better than the plastic fence or wood choices. I hope it comes to the USA!
Aussie here, it is a great product and the installation guys need to go back to plumbing 😂 my posts are set solid with no movement. Google Stratco fencing products. There the manufacture. Not aluminium but powder coated pressed steel. In 10 years not a a rust speck anywhere.
@@stevewhan338 Australian fencing business owner here ….. it’s not stratco mate but BHP Lysaght fencing
Colorbond is steel with a thick zinc coating, finished with an extremely durable paint...
Not a bad looking fence. I think I would prefer a mixture that utilizes the top and bottom rails and cedar pickets, with “I” or “H” spacers to prevent warping and provide 100% privacy.
nice and neat but not particularly strong for high wind areas
Best way to cut sheets is with a metal saw. Advantage is you can cut 3 sheets at a time when you need to cut a rake. Anything that makes sparks you run a risk of rust as the sparks weld themselves back onto the sheet. Another great way to cut is with a nibbler, also power snips, but both of these only do one sheet at a time
angler girder is better for DIY'ers just lay down a towel if your afraid of sparks damaging the paint
There are a lot of colour bond fences in Adelaide because they’ve got a huge white ant problem.
Here in Melbourne there’s way more wooden fences.
Same in Queensland
Use a grinder with a metal cutting blade. You can string a bit of fishing line between posts to stop the birds landing on top of the fence and shitting all over it.
I have a colorbond fence 40+ years old and have decided to paint it. Little dents etc are fairly easy to fix and panels relatively cheap to replace, I think it's 3 panels to a span between posts. But like others said, don't use Bunnings how to vids as a standard. You'd have to find a professional fence builders vid to see how it's done start to finish.
the manufacturer states "do not use grinder" as it rusts. the sparks burn the paint and the panel rusts
If you notice at the start, he is only saying how to install the rails and the panel sheets only, no mention of posts install or string lining. This isnt a very strong fencing system, you can easily kick it in, but it looks good, it's cheap and it last. As long as a car or a vandals don't run into it.
In case anyone hasn't already mentioned this the rigidity comes horizontally from the top and bottom cap rails and vertically from the corrugations in the sheet. These fences last for decades with little wear to show other than the paint fading or going a bit powdery. Also as others have already mentioned the end posts should have been fixed to the wall and fence it buts up against.
I don't know what is worse. That I'm watching someone watching someone else build a fence, or that I kinda enjoyed it...
we have colourbond here at home, all our posts are flush with the top rail. i dont think i have seen any protruding like that.
the ends of the fence are securly fixed to uprights the bottom rail is fixed to concrete normaly