Nice job! I was planning on doing the same exact process as outlined on the Club Lexus forums. I actually was able to find a super easy way to get to the mounts instead. Just slid the alternator and AC compressor forward. I documented my process and made a video. Hopefully this helps this intimidating process that much less intimidating. Keep up the good work
You are the GS wizard thanks a lot for sharing this. Just to clarify you only had 2 subframe bolts to loosen & the 4 on the transmission mount to get the engine to drop? Going to do this on my lift tomorrow hoping it won’t take too long (i’m only replacing the drivers side).
Ended up taking off the whole motor mount (4x 14m bolts). It was a lot easier on my lift just had to use a really really long extension & a wobbly socket to make it work. Night & day difference. My old mount also came out in 2 pieces 😂. Thanks a lot.
Very jealous of how clean your undercarriage is. My lower (probably upper too) oil pan gaskets are leaking, and I'm pretty sure my power steering lines are leaking too. It's quite the mess
Everything looks better on camera. My car has a few leaks too. I just got done with my VC gasket saga. One of those “easy” jobs that ends up being hard. 😆
you better fix power steering leaks since they are leaking on the alternator (got to replace couple of those because they are dying too fast of power steering fluid), so be careful with that))
@@pavlokumeiko5111 lmao speaking of that i have to replace mine again bc my ps is leaking still, don’t know why it’s leaking bc i just replaced the whole pump. but this is my second alternator within 6-7 months. and i have an oil leak somewhere i need to get looked at
I got my engine and transmission mounts replaced (oem) 6months ago at 265k. Oh man, what a difference. Feels like a solid Lexus again. Right out of the factory.
Did mine like 4 years ago I thought the car died when I was at lights it had zero vibrations. What a difference, u got balls for being under that lift lol I couldn't do it...
Perfect. I've been meaning to do mine but have been intimidated by the job. This will def help me get them swapped out now. 200k miles (still) on OEM mounts probably!
You overthinked it 😅. When I did mine all you had to do was unbolt engine mounts from subframe. Raise the engine, then raise the side you working on little more. Unbolt 4 bolts from engine and take it out. There was one tricky bolt out of those 4, but with right tools it's coming out. I did the same on ls460 even thought All Data says remove the engine 😅.
If possible, could you please expand a bit more on the NVH. Really looking at this for my 03 430 but I’m concerned with how it may feel. I don’t mind a 10% or so increase in vibration.
I feel like it’s tough for me to answer because my OEM mounts were probably shot since I have owned the vehicle. I am happy with the Megan mounts in terms of NVH and flex. No complaints. I just cannot speak for OEM because I have never felt new OEM mounts.
Nice!!!!!! I also wanted to swap my engine but I couldn't figure out how to remove the motor mounts. So I ended up paying a mechanic and made sure to replace everything necessary that I could possibly imagine. Unfortunately, the oil pan started leaking months later and one side of the oil pan is right under the engine support. Darn!!! That just made it complicated. So I've been trying to find an easier way to fix it and for sure I can't use your method of supporting the engine on the oil pan for the obvious reason. I think an engine support bar should do the trick right? Do you think I have to remove or just loosen the engine support and loosen the motor mount as well? I'd really appreciate any suggestion on how to tackle this project so I can get my hands dirty since I just spent quite a bit on the car.
If you mean an engine support bar that goes across from fender to fender I actually heard from a trusted source that they don’t work on our cars because of the engine attach points. I heard a cherry picker is the only way to lift it from above. Sorry.
@@ForwardMomentum thanks for the heads up! Do you think I have to remove or just loosen the engine support and loosen the motor mount as well to get to the oil pan?
@@ForwardMomentum I don't unfortunately. Sorry to ask many questions. But I tried searching for TIS cause I'm not familiar it. Would it be to much to ask if you can send me a link for TIS or point me to the right company to deal with pls?
Did you also replace your transmission mount? If so, what brand did you use? I currently cannot find a Megan Racing transmission mount online. I just purchased a well-maintained, completely stock 99 GS 400 with 103,000 miles, and it has been a great car in two months of ownership. I changed the timing belt and will do this job next. Thank you for all your super informative and helpful video content.
Thank you. Glad the vids help. No, I did not change the trans mount because it was newer due to the manual swap (and a completely different design of course). Unless you’re pushing big power, an OEM trans mount is just fine. These rarely tear or get excessively worn.
I only have info on the Megan mounts I went with (see vid description). I am not sure if the OEM mounts have different part #’s but I suspect they do because you cannot interchange L to R.
They’re great and I’m really glad I did them. At the time I didn’t know I would supercharge it, so getting rid of the engine clocking as much as I could was important (to prevent the SC pulley from rubbing the hood).
There is an easyer way that takes 2-4 hours without lowering subframe. Remove the alternator, some other bits and pieces and you can get that top nut, some wiggling and you can take it out.
YW! Yes, it could be that driver’s side for sure. That’s always the bad one because of how the engine torques in the cradle. I couldn’t believe mine was torn in half.
Not bragging or anything just to help others save time and see. Im a flat rate tech so time is money. When you do tighten you do have to transition to a ratchet there’s a couple that are 3/8ths thin and long enough to fit in the crevice. I have to thank my Koken ratchet for that. Then again I did do it on the lift. I applaud you for your work 🙏🏼
Everyone has a method. I considered taking the brackets off the block too, but there’s no way that would have been easier for me with the tools I have. My buddy told me he tried that method on his GS400 and found one of the bolts completely seized to the block. I skipped that and had success this way.
Greetings from the UK! Christian, I have the perfect cosmetic upgrade for your GS...an original TTE Mesh Grill complete with original fixings, hood latch & "L" badge. I can't afford to donate it, but could do a decent deal if you're interested.
Hi there! Thanks for thinking of me. Probably not in the budget at the moment, but feel free to hit me up on IG via messenger. instagram.com/youtube_forward_momentum/?hl=en
I still can't believe you manual swapped your gs400, keep it up man these videos are deadly
Nice job! I was planning on doing the same exact process as outlined on the Club Lexus forums. I actually was able to find a super easy way to get to the mounts instead. Just slid the alternator and AC compressor forward. I documented my process and made a video. Hopefully this helps this intimidating process that much less intimidating. Keep up the good work
You are the GS wizard thanks a lot for sharing this. Just to clarify you only had 2 subframe bolts to loosen & the 4 on the transmission mount to get the engine to drop? Going to do this on my lift tomorrow hoping it won’t take too long (i’m only replacing the drivers side).
If I recall, 2 bolts L & R and 4 on trans. Loosening the top nut on the mount is the hardest part. Hope it goes well!
@@ForwardMomentum Thank you. Ill come back here once i’m done with the job (or how it went if i can’t finish lol).
Ended up taking off the whole motor mount (4x 14m bolts). It was a lot easier on my lift just had to use a really really long extension & a wobbly socket to make it work. Night & day difference. My old mount also came out in 2 pieces 😂. Thanks a lot.
Very cool! Will be doing this on my GS at some point.
Very jealous of how clean your undercarriage is. My lower (probably upper too) oil pan gaskets are leaking, and I'm pretty sure my power steering lines are leaking too. It's quite the mess
Everything looks better on camera. My car has a few leaks too. I just got done with my VC gasket saga. One of those “easy” jobs that ends up being hard. 😆
you better fix power steering leaks since they are leaking on the alternator (got to replace couple of those because they are dying too fast of power steering fluid), so be careful with that))
@@pavlokumeiko5111 lmao speaking of that i have to replace mine again bc my ps is leaking still, don’t know why it’s leaking bc i just replaced the whole pump. but this is my second alternator within 6-7 months. and i have an oil leak somewhere i need to get looked at
I got my engine and transmission mounts replaced (oem) 6months ago at 265k. Oh man, what a difference. Feels like a solid Lexus again. Right out of the factory.
Did mine like 4 years ago I thought the car died when I was at lights it had zero vibrations. What a difference, u got balls for being under that lift lol I couldn't do it...
Good thing I've done my engine mounts while I had my engine pulled
Did you go oem or megan racing mounts
Perfect. I've been meaning to do mine but have been intimidated by the job. This will def help me get them swapped out now. 200k miles (still) on OEM mounts probably!
You overthinked it 😅.
When I did mine all you had to do was unbolt engine mounts from subframe. Raise the engine, then raise the side you working on little more. Unbolt 4 bolts from engine and take it out. There was one tricky bolt out of those 4, but with right tools it's coming out.
I did the same on ls460 even thought All Data says remove the engine 😅.
I’m glad that worked for you. That method you described didn’t work for me. This was the only method that worked with the tools I had on hand. 😎
Great video! Wonder if there is any videos on replacing the motor mount of LS460. Thanks a lot
Thanks! I don’t have one, but I’m sure someone does out there. Good luck!
Thanks I got it, this would be most practical video for GS300/400 motor mount.
If possible, could you please expand a bit more on the NVH. Really looking at this for my 03 430 but I’m concerned with how it may feel. I don’t mind a 10% or so increase in vibration.
It was absolutely imperceptible. These engines are so inherently smooth, I noticed zero adverse effects.
How do you like the mounts compared to oem I’m stuck on if it’s worth it the money or if Megan racing is just as good
I feel like it’s tough for me to answer because my OEM mounts were probably shot since I have owned the vehicle. I am happy with the Megan mounts in terms of NVH and flex. No complaints. I just cannot speak for OEM because I have never felt new OEM mounts.
What orange hydraulic jack stands are those?
ua-cam.com/video/8UF7Yruiy98/v-deo.html
Thanks!! Very well done video!
I’m looking to replace my left and right motor mounts and transmission mount on my 2006 Lexus IS250 AWD. Is this similar to the video I just watched?
My suggestion is to get the FSM for your car and compare it to my video. It should be the same basic concept, but not positive.
Lookin forward to this one!
Nice!!!!!! I also wanted to swap my engine but I couldn't figure out how to remove the motor mounts. So I ended up paying a mechanic and made sure to replace everything necessary that I could possibly imagine. Unfortunately, the oil pan started leaking months later and one side of the oil pan is right under the engine support. Darn!!! That just made it complicated. So I've been trying to find an easier way to fix it and for sure I can't use your method of supporting the engine on the oil pan for the obvious reason. I think an engine support bar should do the trick right? Do you think I have to remove or just loosen the engine support and loosen the motor mount as well? I'd really appreciate any suggestion on how to tackle this project so I can get my hands dirty since I just spent quite a bit on the car.
If you mean an engine support bar that goes across from fender to fender I actually heard from a trusted source that they don’t work on our cars because of the engine attach points. I heard a cherry picker is the only way to lift it from above. Sorry.
@@ForwardMomentum thanks for the heads up! Do you think I have to remove or just loosen the engine support and loosen the motor mount as well to get to the oil pan?
I honestly don’t know. Do you have a FSM? I suggest getting one from TIS on a day pass. I’m sure it’s in there.
@@ForwardMomentum I don't unfortunately.
Sorry to ask many questions. But I tried searching for TIS cause I'm not familiar it. Would it be to much to ask if you can send me a link for TIS or point me to the right company to deal with pls?
techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3D0PRuhO18I-EJj_ejs5fgJC1GAVY&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F
Did you also replace your transmission mount? If so, what brand did you use? I currently cannot find a Megan Racing transmission mount online. I just purchased a well-maintained, completely stock 99 GS 400 with 103,000 miles, and it has been a great car in two months of ownership. I changed the timing belt and will do this job next. Thank you for all your super informative and helpful video content.
Thank you. Glad the vids help. No, I did not change the trans mount because it was newer due to the manual swap (and a completely different design of course). Unless you’re pushing big power, an OEM trans mount is just fine. These rarely tear or get excessively worn.
What lifts are you using
Setting up and using the STRATUS mid rise lift (MS9000E). Spoiler: I'm impressed!
ua-cam.com/video/8UF7Yruiy98/v-deo.html
Is there any more motor mount at the rear side of the engine?
There’s a trans mount also.
@@ForwardMomentum thanks mate, so all together 3?
Correct. But that trans one isn’t as problematic.
@@ForwardMomentum sorry mate last question! Are the left and right mounts same part number?
I only have info on the Megan mounts I went with (see vid description). I am not sure if the OEM mounts have different part #’s but I suspect they do because you cannot interchange L to R.
How do you like the Megan mounts? It’s been a while.
They’re great and I’m really glad I did them. At the time I didn’t know I would supercharge it, so getting rid of the engine clocking as much as I could was important (to prevent the SC pulley from rubbing the hood).
Still having trouble getting this top bolt out on the driver side.
Don’t be afraid to lower the subframe more, use a prybar and loosen the trans x-member a bit to get the angle you need.
Exactly what I did😂ended up taking a break and trying again later in the evening. Got the mount out and gonna go back at it tonight.
There is an easyer way that takes 2-4 hours without lowering subframe. Remove the alternator, some other bits and pieces and you can get that top nut, some wiggling and you can take it out.
Cool. I like options.
Thanks for making this man. Pretty sure mine are shot. I get a huge thud if I hit the gas hard enough from a stop
YW! Yes, it could be that driver’s side for sure. That’s always the bad one because of how the engine torques in the cradle. I couldn’t believe mine was torn in half.
You don’t need to do all that just use a stubby 17 wrench to break the top mount nut use a pry bar.
Good luck breaking that free with a stubby.
Did the r&r today and been doing it like that for years I have pictures and videos if you’d like to see
No need to show me. I’m glad it worked for you.
Not bragging or anything just to help others save time and see. Im a flat rate tech so time is money. When you do tighten you do have to transition to a ratchet there’s a couple that are 3/8ths thin and long enough to fit in the crevice. I have to thank my Koken ratchet for that. Then again I did do it on the lift. I applaud you for your work 🙏🏼
I’m fully open to alternate ideas and methods. There are definitely multiple ways. Thanks for sharing and commenting! 👊
I just took off the brackets with it much easier
Everyone has a method. I considered taking the brackets off the block too, but there’s no way that would have been easier for me with the tools I have. My buddy told me he tried that method on his GS400 and found one of the bolts completely seized to the block. I skipped that and had success this way.
Greetings from the UK! Christian, I have the perfect cosmetic upgrade for your GS...an original TTE Mesh Grill complete with original fixings, hood latch & "L" badge. I can't afford to donate it, but could do a decent deal if you're interested.
Hi there! Thanks for thinking of me. Probably not in the budget at the moment, but feel free to hit me up on IG via messenger. instagram.com/youtube_forward_momentum/?hl=en
I am not able to get your points. Each video poster better to watch ChrisFix' video for easy presentation.
Funny, I don’t get your point either.