Would love to see a follow up to this video explaining your support settings that makes it so easy to remove your supports. Because mine do not come off as cleanly or easy as your's did.
make a support video on settings!!! all my normal supports seem to stick to the project, what are all those raft layer/base interface support loops??? Top and bottom Z distance settings??? and wwhen would you use them (how do they help??) I lovwe your videos, but this one took 23 minutes to give 5 min or less of information.
If you have a printer with a AMS you should use different filament for your support interface. Bambu Lab offers support materials you can use. I only use this with PAHF-CF and PET-CF. For PLA I just use PETG for the support interface material and vise versa. Using both the dedicated support materials or just different material for the interface will allow your supports to come off perfectly. You'll have to change a few settings but some research and you'll easily solve your problem.
just started playing with my new x1C this week. They include a sample spool of Support for PLA. A tutorial on using this in the AMS to minimize the amount used by using it only on the "roof" with minimal poop would be interesting.
Ive just brought a Bambu A1, WOW. What a beast. I like to create new stuff from the mind of Me. Yesterday a 42hrs print finished, Its a hydroponics root watering tank with built in stopcock limiting the flow from the mixing tank. You can just about get your hand inside where the grow pot sits, The tree supports were pretty sparse inside but they did their job and amazingly all came out without causing any damage to the technical gubbings inside the tank itself. Had that been printed on my Ender5 plus's that would have been hell. I love my new Bambu.
if you have something like a bambu with an AMS unit, you can specify one roll use petg, and have the support interface be petg. This will make it so you can have zero distance between support and model, and it will just peel right off.
Thank you so much for all the information. Things I did not know, and I am trying to learn. I would like to ask you; do you give lessons on how to work on building on your project on Tinker cad? I have so many designs that I would love to learn to do.
I’m all about the details. Never like giving half the info if I know something I’ll share it. When it comes to lessons I never have done lessons besides my tinkercad series. That might be a fun livestream to work on some designs. Tinkercad can be quite powerful if you use it right. Feel free to join the discord if you want to continue the conversation or go to my website and email me there. Itsmeadmade.com
Thank you very much for this instructive video, I found it funny how you use leftover filaments, I do it too and it's very good. I always follow you with subtitles in Spanish and with a speed of 0.75, so as not to lose any of your explanations. All the best
Thank you for documenting this. I'm interested in making sure dowel holes in my print are as symmetrical as they can be. According to your explanation, I think using normal supports should do the trick. The holes are being printed horizontally, so the upper half of the holes form a symmetrical arch. I think the normal support may handle the job better than a tree support. I've already tried a tree support and the dowel hole, while still very functional, came out a tad horizontally oblong. I think that is because of gravity pulling down on the filament as it cooled. With normal supports, hopefully there will be enough support to hold the arch up so that it cools in a more perfect circle shape.
Thanks for the video! Great job! How much of an overhang can a printer handle without a support? I have some snap in bushings to print that have a little clip that clips that locks the bushing into place. Do you think the printer can handle those without a support. How about the PVA support materials that dissolve in water? Are they any good?
Thanks for this video. As a newbee who just got his first printer this helped. One thing you didn't cover was Can the support type be changed in mid print if the print is paused?
I'm thinking of getting the P1S so these videos have been invaluable information. Outstanding job and thanks for making them! I print mainly in ABS so I would really like to see similar tests with ABS/ASA filament if you ever get a chance.
Im brand new to printing, I added the 'Bambu Support for PLA' as the support material to my model, and then the slicer had over 1400 filament changes for this model, that made the duration 2.5 days, when the model with same support material was only 6.5 hours. So my question is, when does one use a different support material?
I printed some minons and used tree support. Even being careful at the hands I still tore the arm off up to the elbow? Which support should I have picked to not rip off arms and legs?
I'm looking for normal support but with dissolvable contacts but with the option to set the height of the dissolve material. Like 3-5mm support contact. This would save a lot on expensive support material.
My supports come off much more difficult. I have a X1C and I always have trouble with my supports being so stuck to the print. Is there a setting I could look at that may be off?
Hi, when I bought p1s combo, I received two colors of pla filament and a spool of white pla support filament. How can I choose this filament for supports? When I m trying to print after slicing, I can choose only the colors are used for the item is about to be printed and not the support. Thanks
When your doing cylinders or round holes in Tinkercad, Select the cylinder thats all made up of flats. Then hit the duplicate button, (it duplicates in the exact space the originals at,) click the angle and turn it 3 degrees, then hit the duplicate 4 or 5 times and save, your cylinders now much rounder and gets much rounder still if you duplicate it again at 0.5 degrees 4 or 5 times then save.
Hi Chris, I have a question and maybe could be a up coming video or maybe you could just answer to me directly. I've been struggling with some prints of screw/bolt guides such that you could use them to organize screws and bolts. Typically they have a number of holes for sized like #14 - #2 Imperial or 10 mm - 2 mm Metric. However when I print them on my P1S, they always come out smaller. For instance, the 10 mm hole was 9.7 mm, 9 was 8.63, etc. Are there any settings that can be made to improve this accuracy? I printed out a print called Tolerance Test from Makerworld which has 5 square holes and 5 circular holes and each one has what I believe is a measure of possibly how much bigger it was printed: .05, .10, .15, .20, and .25. It also prints a circular plug and a square plug and I guess you see where the plugs fit best. For me it seems that the square plug fits most comfortably in the .15 mm hole and the round in the .10 mm hole. Any comments you could provide would be appreciated, Thanks
I’ve watched several of your videos. I appreciate your goal with making these. However if you want some advice, try to work on being concise. In other words, make it a goal to deliver as much information in as little time as possible. While watching your videos, I frequently find myself getting impatient/bored/annoyed thinking “he already said this,” “yeah I get it already,” “that’s obvious, I don’t need you to explain it in so much detail.” I find the videos tedious to sit through even though I appreciate the content. I think you can pre-plan the content in such way so as to reduce these to about 1/2 the length while still delivering the same amount of information and it will be more beneficial to the listener as well as yourself. Hope this is helpful and keep up the good work!
That and making sure the video subject is actually in frame. Several times the camera was showing below the actual target of the subject in discussion. It was out of frame.
I would suggest that you update your model to have some overhangs above the existing overhangs then test again. I think you will be surprised about the results.
You da man Mr. Peabody. I had to drop your Patreon because Discord is doodoo. I learned --*everything*-- needed to know from you about slicing with Cura and glad you've added Bambu to your repetoire.
Is this truly the best outcome for supported surfaces? Is there any way to make the supported underside smoother? Sorry but i disagree that any of those supported surfaces look smooth ;for example 22:35. I mean no disrespect, just want a better print.
so funny enough this makes it seem like supports just come off so easy. Mine are like concrete and I am just using all the standard default stuff which this video seems to imply is what you did. not helpful if your not going to show the settings you used, version of slicer (I am on the latest) and what you really changed to make these so easy. My circles like yours are solid and I had to dig in just to get in there to pull pieces out which was a pain. So if this is default stuff maybe your slicer is older and better and I should go back to an old version. If not what the *&*&(& did you change it to
Sorry to say but 3 min of info that took 24 minutes to say. What wasn't spoken of is the material chosen for supports. How does water soluble PVA compare? Ease of removal? Cost? Best type of support for water soluble PVA? Using PETG as support for PLA? Using PLA support for PETG? Using other non compatible materials for support material? Can the user eliminate some supports prior to printing in areas that they do not really need support? The importance of designing parts so that they do not need support? How and what should be done in design to eliminate support? Nothing was mentioned for the time of printing and then removing support, and thus that extreme importance in selecting models or designs that do not need support. Removing support from a hole that is 1/2" diameter but 2" deep? The danger of damaging a printed item where the support material and the part can be misidentified? Selecting an alternate color for model vs support? Other issues when using an AMS with support? So much could have been offered rather than the too often used phrase "I'm not telling you what to do..."
Sorry, your glasses can’t be working. After taking away most of the supports you say it leaves it nice and clean but any amount of angle at the top of the supports / bottom of the model leaves it looking like rubbish. Horizontal looks acceptable, just
Would love to see a follow up to this video explaining your support settings that makes it so easy to remove your supports. Because mine do not come off as cleanly or easy as your's did.
did you ever get a reply on this?
@@mariogayoso I have not seen anything yet. Unless I missed it from one of his more recent videos.
It could be a few factors as why yours dont come off as easy. Airgap, flow rate, ect
I watched a different video and they suggested increasing the Top Z distance to 0.27
make a support video on settings!!! all my normal supports seem to stick to the project, what are all those raft layer/base interface support loops??? Top and bottom Z distance settings??? and wwhen would you use them (how do they help??) I lovwe your videos, but this one took 23 minutes to give 5 min or less of information.
If you have a printer with a AMS you should use different filament for your support interface. Bambu Lab offers support materials you can use. I only use this with PAHF-CF and PET-CF. For PLA I just use PETG for the support interface material and vise versa. Using both the dedicated support materials or just different material for the interface will allow your supports to come off perfectly. You'll have to change a few settings but some research and you'll easily solve your problem.
just started playing with my new x1C this week. They include a sample spool of Support for PLA. A tutorial on using this in the AMS to minimize the amount used by using it only on the "roof" with minimal poop would be interesting.
Im super happy with your vids and delivery. Dont change you! Haters will always hate and who cares. Keep helping us like you are
Ive just brought a Bambu A1, WOW. What a beast. I like to create new stuff from the mind of Me. Yesterday a 42hrs print finished, Its a hydroponics root watering tank with built in stopcock limiting the flow from the mixing tank. You can just about get your hand inside where the grow pot sits, The tree supports were pretty sparse inside but they did their job and amazingly all came out without causing any damage to the technical gubbings inside the tank itself. Had that been printed on my Ender5 plus's that would have been hell. I love my new Bambu.
HI thanks for your video! this really helped me.
Rich
That’s great. Happy to help.
Great video! Thank you!
Awesome glad you liked it!
Thanks for this video! Looking forward to the manual placement video as well.
if you have something like a bambu with an AMS unit, you can specify one roll use petg, and have the support interface be petg. This will make it so you can have zero distance between support and model, and it will just peel right off.
Thank you so much for all the information. Things I did not know, and I am trying to learn. I would like to ask you; do you give lessons on how to work on building on your project on Tinker cad? I have so many designs that I would love to learn to do.
What I like about you to expand every detail while everyone else rush thru every detail.
I’m all about the details. Never like giving half the info if I know something I’ll share it.
When it comes to lessons I never have done lessons besides my tinkercad series. That might be a fun livestream to work on some designs. Tinkercad can be quite powerful if you use it right. Feel free to join the discord if you want to continue the conversation or go to my website and email me there. Itsmeadmade.com
Thank you very much for this instructive video, I found it funny how you use leftover filaments, I do it too and it's very good. I always follow you with subtitles in Spanish and with a speed of 0.75, so as not to lose any of your explanations. All the best
Thank you for documenting this. I'm interested in making sure dowel holes in my print are as symmetrical as they can be. According to your explanation, I think using normal supports should do the trick. The holes are being printed horizontally, so the upper half of the holes form a symmetrical arch. I think the normal support may handle the job better than a tree support. I've already tried a tree support and the dowel hole, while still very functional, came out a tad horizontally oblong. I think that is because of gravity pulling down on the filament as it cooled. With normal supports, hopefully there will be enough support to hold the arch up so that it cools in a more perfect circle shape.
Helpful video, but whats best support settings for a very large 15 degree from bed angled flat surface?
Great video use a 3 layer raft with tree support or they will break from the base … if slightly off level .
Thanks for the video! Great job! How much of an overhang can a printer handle without a support? I have some snap in bushings to print that have a little clip that clips that locks the bushing into place. Do you think the printer can handle those without a support. How about the PVA support materials that dissolve in water? Are they any good?
Thanks for this video. As a newbee who just got his first printer this helped. One thing you didn't cover was Can the support type be changed in mid print if the print is paused?
Excellent stuff many thanks!
I'm thinking of getting the P1S so these videos have been invaluable information. Outstanding job and thanks for making them! I print mainly in ABS so I would really like to see similar tests with ABS/ASA filament if you ever get a chance.
Thanks for comparisons. Video was overdue :)
Adjust the top support layer gap distance to .18 or .2mm for easy separation from your supports.
Im brand new to printing, I added the 'Bambu Support for PLA' as the support material to my model, and then the slicer had over 1400 filament changes for this model, that made the duration 2.5 days, when the model with same support material was only 6.5 hours.
So my question is, when does one use a different support material?
I printed some minons and used tree support. Even being careful at the hands I still tore the arm off up to the elbow? Which support should I have picked to not rip off arms and legs?
Water soluble PVA.
I'm looking for normal support but with dissolvable contacts but with the option to set the height of the dissolve material. Like 3-5mm support contact. This would save a lot on expensive support material.
My supports come off much more difficult. I have a X1C and I always have trouble with my supports being so stuck to the print. Is there a setting I could look at that may be off?
What are the settings used for organic tree support? I have used those and they don’t break away so easily in some cases.
Or is that coming next video?
I miss your painting content, Chris :(
Oh I’m going through withdrawal. I miss it too. I’ve been printing some stuff to do some painting vids.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I kinda get it though, I'm trying to start a channel and what I'm finding so far is my painting vids are a nightmare to edit lol
Hi, when I bought p1s combo, I received two colors of pla filament and a spool of white pla support filament. How can I choose this filament for supports? When I m trying to print after slicing, I can choose only the colors are used for the item is about to be printed and not the support. Thanks
@ItsMeaDMaDe can you share your tree support settings?
When your doing cylinders or round holes in Tinkercad, Select the cylinder thats all made up of flats. Then hit the duplicate button, (it duplicates in the exact space the originals at,) click the angle and turn it 3 degrees, then hit the duplicate 4 or 5 times and save, your cylinders now much rounder and gets much rounder still if you duplicate it again at 0.5 degrees 4 or 5 times then save.
Will these work on orca slicer
are you able to make the support a different color from the print?
Perfect thank you :)
How do you assembly a model all at once with like 6 parts on bed ?
you can set per object in one bed. global will make all object the same support. object will make different support for eah object.
Is there thingiverse link for this object?
It would have been nice for you to weigh the waste so we could see the cost for each result
Is there a link to this model for testing my Creality supports?
Hi Chris, I have a question and maybe could be a up coming video or maybe you could just answer to me directly. I've been struggling with some prints of screw/bolt guides such that you could use them to organize screws and bolts. Typically they have a number of holes for sized like #14 - #2 Imperial or 10 mm - 2 mm Metric. However when I print them on my P1S, they always come out smaller. For instance, the 10 mm hole was 9.7 mm, 9 was 8.63, etc. Are there any settings that can be made to improve this accuracy? I printed out a print called Tolerance Test from Makerworld which has 5 square holes and 5 circular holes and each one has what I believe is a measure of possibly how much bigger it was printed: .05, .10, .15, .20, and .25. It also prints a circular plug and a square plug and I guess you see where the plugs fit best. For me it seems that the square plug fits most comfortably in the .15 mm hole and the round in the .10 mm hole. Any comments you could provide would be appreciated,
Thanks
Chris, I found your video on making parts fit and downloaded the calculator. I think this what I needed. Thanks for all that you do.
Goated still
😅😁
I’ve watched several of your videos. I appreciate your goal with making these. However if you want some advice, try to work on being concise. In other words, make it a goal to deliver as much information in as little time as possible. While watching your videos, I frequently find myself getting impatient/bored/annoyed thinking “he already said this,” “yeah I get it already,” “that’s obvious, I don’t need you to explain it in so much detail.” I find the videos tedious to sit through even though I appreciate the content. I think you can pre-plan the content in such way so as to reduce these to about 1/2 the length while still delivering the same amount of information and it will be more beneficial to the listener as well as yourself. Hope this is helpful and keep up the good work!
That and making sure the video subject is actually in frame. Several times the camera was showing below the actual target of the subject in discussion. It was out of frame.
I watch his videos at 2x speed, it fits the amount of information density better
I'm using up my nearly empty spools as I watch this video, printing OpenLOCK clips
Heck yeah some dnd terrain is a great way to use up spools.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe2nd Dynasty Beowolf :)
@@clive3490 oh nice. Never played that one.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe2nd Dynasty is the STL designer, the Beowulf is a 3 deck playable spaceship from the Traveller RPG, they have a youtube channel
Never tried supports beyond default. I'm looking forward to trying the other options out.
How do I enable the tree styles it won’t pull up
I would suggest that you update your model to have some overhangs above the existing overhangs then test again. I think you will be surprised about the results.
where is the file to print the torture test piece and what is it called? is it on thingaverse or where can i find it?
how would this work for small crevices?
You da man Mr. Peabody.
I had to drop your Patreon because Discord is doodoo.
I learned --*everything*--
needed to know from you about slicing with Cura and glad you've added Bambu to your repetoire.
Is this truly the best outcome for supported surfaces? Is there any way to make the supported underside smoother? Sorry but i disagree that any of those supported surfaces look smooth ;for example 22:35. I mean no disrespect, just want a better print.
My Bambu Studio does not use rafts under the organic tree support.
The vid is very good but the green box and the huge mouse cursor is a bit annoying
Shhh, you're creating artificial gem fusions with those multicolor supports
There is no grid or snug in the style selection
How many times are you going to flash the triple 6? Short term fame and success isn't worth it...
so funny enough this makes it seem like supports just come off so easy. Mine are like concrete and I am just using all the standard default stuff which this video seems to imply is what you did. not helpful if your not going to show the settings you used, version of slicer (I am on the latest) and what you really changed to make these so easy. My circles like yours are solid and I had to dig in just to get in there to pull pieces out which was a pain. So if this is default stuff maybe your slicer is older and better and I should go back to an old version. If not what the *&*&(& did you change it to
Sorry to say but 3 min of info that took 24 minutes to say. What wasn't spoken of is the material chosen for supports. How does water soluble PVA compare? Ease of removal? Cost? Best type of support for water soluble PVA? Using PETG as support for PLA? Using PLA support for PETG? Using other non compatible materials for support material? Can the user eliminate some supports prior to printing in areas that they do not really need support? The importance of designing parts so that they do not need support? How and what should be done in design to eliminate support? Nothing was mentioned for the time of printing and then removing support, and thus that extreme importance in selecting models or designs that do not need support. Removing support from a hole that is 1/2" diameter but 2" deep? The danger of damaging a printed item where the support material and the part can be misidentified? Selecting an alternate color for model vs support? Other issues when using an AMS with support? So much could have been offered rather than the too often used phrase "I'm not telling you what to do..."
painful to watch - to much zoom
Sorry, your glasses can’t be working. After taking away most of the supports you say it leaves it nice and clean but any amount of angle at the top of the supports / bottom of the model leaves it looking like rubbish. Horizontal looks acceptable, just