Fix Stuck Supports in Bambu Studio
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- Опубліковано 26 бер 2024
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It was suggested that the tops fell off of the prints due to the flush volumes being too low. Here are some follow up shorts:
Testing 400, 500 and 600 flush volumes: ua-cam.com/users/shortsXCteUydTDiM?si=UTujHOo_m9CZz--c
Testing 700, 800 and 900 flush volumes: ua-cam.com/users/shortspIgU2GMvO1k?feature=share
If you want to be sure there is no PETG left in the nozzle, 800mm^3 looks like the answer.
(edit: added link for 700, 800 and 900 testing)
Wow, that’s a lot of flush volume. Not too bad in the case of a single flat surface as in the test cubes, but it could really add up for prints with lots of curved surfaces. Still a very useful technique, but it doesn’t come for free.
Yeah 800 is also where I settled on with using PETG with PLA or vice versa ...
To avoid breaking off the top of the PETG supported cubes, there is probably still just enough PETG mixed into the PLA, so that the PLA layers aren't adhering as much as they should. To fix this, you may need to increase the "Flushing volumes" for "from" yellow "to" green.
"Flushing volumes" is in the grey bar just above the filaments list.
yes, Flush Volumes is the answer... got the same a few times by accident. Cause the calculated volume for the color change between green and yellow isn't that big like on black to white or other way round. Get to 500-600 and you should be good
Yes I suspect this is the case. I thought naively that bambu studio would sort that out for me automatically when recalculating with a different material loaded up. Their flushing volumes for colors I find to be very generous. I guess their flushing volumes between materials aren't so generous.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah, I wish their flushing volumes algorithm accounted for material type transitions as well as colors. I'm glad you did a quick follow-up. I haven't seen any in-depth videos on this, so that might be a useful video for the community. (I haven't explicitly looked for a video on the topic, but I get a lot of 3d printing recommendations from YT and I haven't gotten a recommendation from them for one on this topic.)
Your videos are seriously so helpful! I'm so tired of having to ask questions on the Bambu Labs reddit for no one to respond to my posts. Thank you for existing 😭
Hey thanks so much for this comment. Really makes making these videos worth it. Glad this video was helpful to you.
The addition of the PETG is requiring a filament change and creating a cold break when the PLA resumes, in turn creating a fault line that breaks easily in the PLA part.
Great video. I’ve used PETG as a support layer and have experienced “stickiness” to pla. Glad to see this is normal.
i always use 0,6 top interface spacing, also 0,3 on top Z distance! mostly works out
My theory would be that the PETG off-gassing when at high temp for melting lingered around while the PLA was being melted and distributed and prevented binding.
I'd love to see a comparison between the use of PLA / PETG in the same print VS PLA / Bambu Lab brand Support Material
I have been wondering about the PETG support idea ever since I got my X1-Carbon a month or so ago. This video has convinced me to give it a try. Thanks!
Definitely worth a try, I won't use it very often personally but it's definitely a good option to have in the back pocket.
Another major thing you can do is print supports 45 degrees rotated from your normal part, it causes the layers to bind less strongly and much easier to remove.
I only use PLA. Why are bambu supports so much harder to remove than prusa supports? same model, same material….I just don’t gee why bambu have over complicated it as i thought they generally used similar splicer software?
I recommend a minimum of 400 for the flush volume when switching forth and back from PLA/PETG.
At least, I personally use 600% when switching materials.
I thought naively that bambu studio would take into account the switch of materials. I guess they only think about color? Anyways I'll know for next time.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
It brokers when using PETG interface because you didn’t purge enough. So your top layers are printed with a mix of PETG/PLA which reduces the layer adhesion.
Correct, see the pinned comment.
Nice! I’m inspired to try some tree supports with PETG interface.
Super useful video! I’ve been interested in trying out PETG interface layers but didn’t want the hassle of figuring out the settings myself 😁👍
I have to give recognition to the print profile I learned these settings from, Jens93 made a great print profile for that motor model.
God luck with your PETG interface prints, I don't use it very often but it's a good technique to have in the back pocket.
This parts falling appart is due to nozzle contamination.
I thought bambu studio would take care of the transitions between materials on the flushing volume but I guess not. I'll know to increase the volumes next time. It's been suggested to use between 400-600. Do you have a number that works for you?
@@3DPrintStuff For me, 550 flush volume works well when going between materials for support interface. I'd also suggest to always place the prime tower towards the back of the build plate (near the poop chute). I have some issue with the print head flinging those poos across the bed, once had a 17 hour print fail because of that😫 . With the prime tower at the back, most poos get lost around the prime tower and don't travel around.
I don't buy this. I have done full plate objects with small areas needing support and used PETG for the interface.
An entire layer of PETG ran across the entire object and it split in two. Full flushing enabled and no layer of PETG shown in the slice.
I never use PETG/PLA combination now.
The settings do use normally (unless unusual circumstances) just fall off wita clean interface.hIaefdg
Great video. I learned a lot about supports. Thank you. I use a Cricut weeding tool to get into those hard to reach places. It's small enough to dig into corners for lifting supports. It's a hardy tool and, imho, better than tweezers which have a tendency to bend under stress. I have found them at the dollar store in the craft section.
That’s a great tip. Those look like they’d be amazing for this. I used to have a sculpting tool that was basically a needle on a stick but I misplaced it. I miss that tool.
Thank you! Really appreciate this video.
You're welcome, glad it was helpful.
Things like the sphere you can paint in the supports on maybe 3 areas just where the overhand is worse. Same for the flat support, the bridging capabilities of the bambu are great. Just need to stop slight sagging. So I would only use pergola for the interface part and minimise the supports used in total. Quicker and cheaper
Very cool video, quite enjoyed it. I wonder if there would be a way to iron the zero clearance support interface with PETG to get an even cleaner surface, but the final print you showed look a lot better than the initial cube imo.
Glad you liked it. Ironing the support interface would be pretty cool and should produce a super smooth part. Maybe they'll add that feature in the future.
Anyone have any suggestions on petg with pla interface, and vice versa?
I think the tops were coming off because the interstitial layer material change took so long that the base cooled off too much in between.
Purge volumes seem to be the culprit. I've linked to some further testing in the pinned comment.
making the base pattern rectilinear grid also helps
Hello,
I have watched almost all of your videos and learned a lot of valuable information for which I thank you. However, I bought a Bambulab P1S a month ago and have been printing for a month. Some prints come out well, but some are terrible. I get information from many sources, but the information I get doesn't seem to work. I don't understand why I can't do this.
Could you please prepare a guide video on what people should do step-by-step to get a good print after buying a P1S?
You don’t really need to setup anything, it should, in theory, deliver amazing results just out of the box. When you are talking about having terrible prints, you should really try to identify the exact issue. If you can’t describe the problem with words, join some groups and communities and post your failed prints photo, many would be happy to help.
Hey sorry to hear that you're struggling with your P1S. Hard to troubleshoot with such little information. Maybe try posting your issues to www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/
people can be pretty rude over there but there are sill people who will help you out.
Otherwise there's the bambu labs specific subreddit: www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/
Make sure you make a detailed post with the settings you're using, pictures of the sliced model and the result. Give as much information as you can so that people have the best chance of helping you.
Now do the same video but for TPU & TPU supports
3d printers need a tool to apply seperation mediums, a syringe, airbrush or brush next to the nozzle, or some injector which injects into the nozzle itself. best is to move to resin printers if you need high quality. if you can't, model the supports like you would for resin. resin slicers can be used, then export stl.
What brand PETG did you use?
I'm using filaments.ca PETG in this video
And probably this will work for PLA supporting PETG right?
Yeah it works both ways which is pretty cool
First question how do you get your parts to float over the bed? Mine always snap to the bed
Yeah it’s a bit of a hack since Bambu studio won’t let you do it natively. You need to have a second part and turn them into an assembly in Bambu studio. Then you can make one of the two parts float. That’s why I have those little squares on the build plate beside the floating part. I wanted to include this in the video but I felt like it was kinda off topic and the video is already long enough.
That’s awesome, I’ll have to try that now lol I did not know you could do that.
@@SpwnDragn Yeah in Cura you could just toggle off "snap to build plate" or something along those lines and just put your part wherever you want... Hopefully bambu studio adds this at some point.
Yeah I miss a lot of features from cura lol
Nice! I suspect the petg didn't stick to the prime tower from the looks of it
Yeah the PETG looks pretty bare on the prime tower. It's been suggested to increase the flushing volume to between 400-600 which may be the answer.
I think that there are very few situations where you would need to print flat surfaces with supports, rather than perpendicular to he build plate or directly on it. However, the print orientation I think it solves most of the stringy surfaces left after the removal of the supports. Your big piece could have been printed on one side, perpendicular to the build plate, or at a 45 degree angle to avoid support on the concave area, or minimize them, maybe use tree. This comes with experience and trial and error.
Many ways to achieve the same result and I do think there are situations where supports under flat surfaces are unavoidable so I’m just giving people options to have in their toolkit. I have also had good results with mostly flat parts printed at a 45 so maybe that can be an upcoming video.
I print my pla at 230c if i dont use a interface layer on supports they are impossible to remove.
Try printing it cooler.
The default in Bambu Studio is 220 for PLA. Is there a specific reason you are printing at 230?
@3DPrintStuff yes I've noticed the layer adhesion over all for the print is much stronger at 230c on my x1c
HI WHERE I CAN DOWNLOAD ??
In the description "Print profile used in this video:"
I came here to see the PLA Support Filament.
Sorry you didn't get what you were looking for. You can still play with the "top z distance" and "interface spacing" on PLA supports.
The weakness from using PETG as support was because you didn’t purge the nozzle enough of the PETG so it weakened the PLA around it. Double the purge.
I was not aware u could use petg as support for pla, i suppose i could use pla as interface support for petg?? Great video
Yup, your assumption is right. It works both ways
If you need a more perfect sphere, print the sphere on the point of a small pyramid with minimal support.
With PLA and PETG there is still nozzle cleaning in the object. This has to be protected, not cleaned in the object and the PLA will stick together
Follow up short videos testing flushing volumes in the pinned comment.
Should probably have the title say choosing an interface material or something not fix stuck supports(makes it sound like it's just dialing in the settings)
Yeah, I was expecting some setting changes and not just using a dissimilar support material. I won't do that as it wastes too much filament for the things I print. Personally I increase the the Z support distance from .2 to .25 or even .27 to get the supports to come off easily.
HEY! AT 8:56 I SEE A STRING PIECE STILL INSIDE THERE! LOL
Yup there is one strand left in the top edge. Good eyes.
💪 🙏
For the interface layer - the heads shouldn’t make the first layer of the purge towers - like when printing one Model after the other
I just use a heat gun and works like a charm.
I think the issue is the nozzle will end up getting pet on the surface and contaminate the next layer of pla.
Use line type next time then you can see clearly the supports difference from the part
Those parts fall off, cause there was not enough PETG purged out between the changes and probably some resedue of PETG is still between PLA which causes weakness. Solution might be to increase purge volume and/or make bit bigger purge tower.
That is correct, see the pinned comment.
I bet turning on adaptive layers on the sphere would of resulted in an even cleaner bottom surface
It definitely would have.
Kind of misleading. Your PETG interface failures are due to not setting your filament purges/flush volume correctly. I purge 800 going from support to primary material. It takes a large poop to clean out the nozzle.
Sorry, not intentionally misleading. I thought Bambu studio would take into consideration the transition between materials and set the flush volume to an appropriate amount… I was wrong. Didn’t really think about it until after posting this. Should have done a reprint with higher flush volumes.
Interesting. Not *helpful* to me, since I don't have an AMS and feel like multi-material in a single nozzle is a gimmick, not a useful ability - but the results are very interesting!
Although: I suspect it's not "gen-ess," but "yenz." As in the fairly common German and Scandinavian name, Jens.
Yeah definitely not something I use often but it has its use case.
Thats good to know! My English brain just saw Jen S.
Hello ,what are your settings for the PETG filament? ,THANKS.
Just using the default PETG profile from Bambu Labs.