If you're not dropping, or crashing your bike while riding off-road you're not trying hard enough ;-) Certainly don't recommend trying hard while riding on road though...
Agreed, great video, just the right amount of talk and instruction. All the help is appreciative from folks on UA-cam but so many others make 30 min videos for no reason full of all kinds of bs. Yours was great, thanks for the reminders as it's been a while since I did this. Cheers.
That bike has never crashed. Mine looks like it's been through a war... great video, I was totally wrong with my guess as to what to do, glad I didn't try.
Huge THANK YOU for posting this video. My son went down while learning and hit the bark-buster on the throttle side on the ground and twisted the front forks... the alignment was way off. Had a ride scheduled for the next day with my other son and I thought the bike was toast. This video saved the day. This technique worked perfectly and took all of 10 minutes. Subbed and Liked! Thanks again!
I'm new to this sport. I just crashed today in the sand pit, hurt my hand a bit but no worries. Noticed that my fork was off a little after a few seconds dusting off .. "WHAT THE???", googled, got the link to this clip, great stuff. Simple and quick. Thanks man.
This is an excellent technique. I use this on my Freeride 250R when the forks look a little misaligned. The to and fro torquing part is an excellent tip; otherwise the bolts may loosen with riding.
After crashing my 501 on a dirt trail yesterday my front wheel seemed to be pointed a bit to the right. This method worked perfectly to get everything back in line. Thanks!
Thank you very much for all your professional tutorials over all these years. Wishing you and your loved ones and all the riding community a happy festive season and a healthy and prosperous 2020. Your help is always and will be highly appreciated.
Thank you very much for posting this video. Out of all the videos that are related to this category. Yours is simplified and easy to follow. Thank you again.
Thanks so much for this video. I see its about 5 years old now. It saved me with my 250 Dual sport. I thought I was going to need New Forks. Was so easy and fast to correct.
Great video! My son found this video and shared it with me to realign his KX100. Bike was dropped practicing 360 wheelies on asphalt and I thought something was bent. Work like a charm thanks for the video.
It's not possible to torque both bolts correctly if you only tighten each one once. After tightening the second bolt the torque of the first bolt will not be at spec and needs to be tightened again. If both are at torque but causing resistance on the internals then the torque spec can't be correct. I've had no issues with the method I use on my bikes and I use the KTM published torque specifications (or XTRIG specs as fit now).
That doesn’t seem right to me.. just from loosening them, I’d alternate and the opposite one would be tightened back up once the other was loosened. I’ve always heard to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern strictly because of this, so in my opinion, there’s no possible way two bolts would NOT need torqued again
Thank you for making a quick video about this! I'm about to realign a 2003 CRF150F front end. At first I thought the handlebars were bent, but I think everything will straighten out after this procedure.
Thank you so much for uploading such a helpful video man... crashed 3 days before Christmas and thats what happened.. it worked on my bike... more power....
I found the specs for the front axle pinch bolts, but not the lower triple clamp bolts for my 2017 yz250f! Any other names for the "Lower Triple Clamp pinch bolts" that may be used in my manual?
I hit an immovable rock at speed really hard last ride. Put a big ding in my front rim. I managed to get most of the ding out of the rim. Next ride I noticed my bike was pulling hard to the left when on pavement. As soon as I loosened the lower fork pitch bolts, the tubes moved right back into place. Bike is nice and lined up now
I just came across this video a day after fixing my front end after a crash. Do you not need to loosen the bolts on the top triple clamps and the steering nut as well? I was under the impression tension needs to be released from all parts to align correctly. I left my wheel on when adjusting but was told taking the wheel off and using the axle by itself gets the best result.
The method I show in the video does not require the top triple clamp to be loosened and the front wheel must be fitted. By applying the front brake and compressing the fork it will overcome the top triple clamp grip in the stem and align the forks. There are other methods too, but this one is quick and easy and works well in my experience.
With the forks aligned at the same notch at top, and the wheel removed. Should the axle bolt easily slide through both forks and easily turn? I have heard mixed answers if it should or not. My forks are currently aligned at top and I did the alignment in your video. But I saw a video that said you are in alignment when the tire is removed and you can easily put axle bolt though and turn easily.
Yes, the axle should easily slide through with the front wheel removed. If it doesn’t something is wrong. If the fork leg length is different possibly the forks weren’t assembled correctly.
Could this be the same on a street bike? I purchased a bike but only after riding it noticed that when bike travels straight, the handlebars are turned to the right. It has been previously dropped but has no frame damage.
Thanks a million! I just straightened out my front end after a randevu with the forest floor. Now do you have any advice for a tender mid section (read broken rib)?
My son went down yesterday and twisted his front end. I stood in front of the bike, with the front wheel between my legs, and twisted the handle bars in the necessary direction, and it worked. Today after washing the bike, and I will loosen the indicated bolts, and retorque them.
Hi sir! A couple of questions. Hope you will answer. Why did you loosen only the right side bolts next to the wheel? What about the left? My bike (ktm lc4 prestige) tends to lean a bit to the right. So which side should l choose. Lastly , I have a side stand only , so I can't lift the bike as you did. Can I do this anyways? Thank you!
If the wheel has been installed correctly there is no need to loosen the left side as the axle is pulled hard in to the wheel hub and left fork lug by the axle screw at the end of the axle. The right fork lug is able to move on the axle shaft if force greater than the pinch bolts provide is applied. I.e. it is always the right fork lug which moves on the axle during a heavy crash and causes alignment issues. You can do this on a side stand instead of a lift stand.
Why only loosen one side of the pinch bolts? I need to do this on my ‘17 YZ 250F and do I need to loosen both sides of the punch bolts on the front axle?
The method shown in the video is what I use for KTMs and it works well. If your YZ axle tightening method is different you'll need to change the procedure as appropriate. You should still find that the general method works, even if some details need to be changed though.
just looped my husky te310 today and my front tire was noticeably shifted to the right when the handlebars were straight. i’m going to try this tomorrow because my forks do not look bent. but it was a hard loop, the bike flipped twice
If the handlebars alignment is tweaked and the the wheel is off to one side with the bars held straight, how would only loosening the lower triple clamp pinch bolts allow the wheel to straighten up? This essentially means the forks rotated inside the clamps causing the wheel to be off to one side. Wouldn't you need to loosen all the triple clamp bolts so that the fork tubes can rotate freely inside the clamps allowing the wheel to straighten up?
In the video I loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and also the wheel axle right side pinch bolts, then perform the realignment of the fork tube/wheel. If you also loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts the fork tubes will not be held in place and realignment (by applying the front brake and compressing the forks) will not be possible.
Great video! Elephant in the room! What was all the oil spilling/coming from? Some might wonder if that's supposed to happen or not in this process. You don't say a word about it. Someone doing this for the first time might really be confused from seeing all that oil spraying out to the floor.
Pleased to hear that you enjoyed the video. I'd just washed the bike before the video, so you can see water drip down occasionally when I move it. It's not oil...
What about loosening the main triple clamp big nut? The one that holds both clamps compressed together? I think - when that nut is on - clamps won't move independently. Right?
I understand what you're talking about, but it's not necessary. Because the forks are long they have a lot of leverage on the triple clamps. When you compress forks with the lower triple clamp fork tubes pinch bolts loose the top and bottom triple clamps will self align even if the top triple clamp stem pinch bolt and stem bolt have not been loosened.
The left side of the axle is pulled over in to the left fork lug and secured in place with the axle screw on the left side and the left pinch bolts. As such, so long as the axle has been installed correctly, the left side can not move in a crash. However the right side fork lug is free to move on the axle if the right pinch bolts are loosened (or in a heavy crash).
The forks/axle will align easiest if you loosen the lower triple clamp fork pinch bolts on both sides. On a KTM the right side axle pinch bolts only need to be loosened. I have never worked on a Grom so am not sure if it's the same type of axle clamping. It doesn't matter which side you crash on, the method is the same.
You're welcome to come riding with us. We ride most weekends, usually in Saitama-ken, Gunma-ken, or Yamanashi-san. Please send me a private message if you're interested...
I was always taught to do this but to compress the forks without using the brake as the brake force on one side of the wheel can slightly tweak the axle in the fork bottoms.
@@TokyoOffroad hi, you can either do it with locked on rear brake / chocked rear wheel or even carefully chocked front wheel (up against a straight wall etc. I normally do it with rear brake on and bounce it up and down on the bike, but keep it level. seems to work!! cheers
pooatpauls10 - I see. Thanks for sharing. I think doing it against a wall has a risk of tweaking the alignment. I don’t think there is an issue using the front brake and still use this method.
@@TokyoOffroad, yes, try rear brake, you can chock the back end too and get some real compression without touching the front brake. Cheers for you vid and comments .
I must have not compressed the forks enough because mine is still to the left but better. Also have a fractured rib so can’t really do it hard enough. Can I mount the bike and do it?
Sorry to hear about your injury. I have the same thing right now (broken rib) and it sucks not riding. Yes, you can sit on the bike and compress the forks. Or the other way to do it is to completely remove the forks, loose the top triple clamp steering stem pinch bolt and stem screw (so that the upper and lower clamps can move independently, reinstall the fork tubes (tighten the lower clamp pinch bolts and the front wheel, then with the bike on the ground torque the stem screw to spec and the stem pinch bolt, then tighten the upper triple fork pinch bolts. It you watch this video at the end you'll see this is the method I used: ua-cam.com/video/7eOps1iU1YY/v-deo.html
I just bought a 2022 ktm xc-w 300 tpi and the front wheel seems crooked and I also noticed one fork is lower than the other. Should I let the dealer take care of this or should I do it myself?
The fork legs should be equal (mounted in the triple clamps with the same stick out at the top and the lowers should be same). If there is a significant difference in the lower length possibly the forks have not been assembled correctly and should be corrected.
Hello @Tokyo Offroad, i've got bent wheel to the right. My manual says when installing front wheel you leave fork bolts unscrewed on both sides and then you need to grab the brake, but you untightened them only on one side. To straighten wheel should I do the same as you or as the manual says? Ktm sxf 250 2015 btw. Thank you.
faganeli matej - I recommend you follow the method shown in the video and only loosen the right side axle pinch bolts (and both sides lower triple clamp pinch bolts).
The right side fork lug can shift on the axle in a heavy crash. It's therefore a very good idea to loosen the right side pinch bolts to allow it to align correctly when you push the forks down.
@tokyooffroad. This method worked straightening my wheel today after I wrecked. Inside to inside the forks are not parallel all the way down. Even after spinning and compressing them. Well actually loosening the lower TTC and turning my handle bars straightened it. How do I know exactly if my forks are spaced correctly.
Compressing your forks with the right hand side pinch bolts loose will force the fork tubes to become parallel. If they’re not parallel you’ll find the fork action is harsh as they will tend to bind when being compressed.
So when I loosen the right side pinch bolts and compress the forks repeatedly, I should retighten where it lays? There is no defined measurements? As I mentioned I had to pinch the wheel with my knees and turn the handlebars as this method did not straighten the handlebars completely. They must have twisted in the clamps. When I loosened the axle pinch bolts the fork went out away from the hub. My initial reaction was maybe when it landed it pushed the fork inward. As it fell on that side. Thank you for the advice. I have subscribed and your videos are very well done. @tokyooffroad
How do you possible rule out bent fork, I have the same issue but the service guy is insisting in opening up the forks to rule out bend, my bike got stuck in a pothole at 5 mph, on the right and now the left handle bar is a bit out when front tyre is straight also the motorcycle glides to the left when I leave my hands off the bar and my left shoulder started to hurt after 10 miles
Bending the fork tubes on these bikes is very unusual. They are extremely tough and unlikely to bend due to a normal off-road tip over type crash. If you hit something at speed, head-on, then yes it is possible to bend the forks. One way to inspect the tubes would be to use two v-blocks and a dial gauge on a stand. Rest the fork tube across the v-blocks, position the dial gauge half way between the v-blocks and take a reading. Then rotate the tube on the v-blocks and measure any variation. The KTM Repair Manual has a specification for lower tube run-out of
Greetings. I have the WP AER 48's. Question is I was set at the KTM's Comfort- level 17 Compression and 17 Rebound. I switched now... too KTM's Standard-level of 12 Compression and 12 Rebound. Now I know I could go to 12 compression and 17 Rebound? I am 198lbs. I don't race this bike and I Enduro ride, bouncing the bike with my weight for logs and such. Is there a sweet spot that you liked with the setting? I see the 17/17 was Comfortable... Mushie in a way... Just getting your input. Thanks
Sorry but I don't have any experience with AER forks. My 17 is fitted with Dal Soggio Sphere cartridges and my 19 is still stock with WP XPLOR 48 forks. I recommend you ask the same question in the web forum ktmtalk.com and I'm sure you'll receive some helpful replies.
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing this as soon as I get a torque wrench. What are your thoughts on the cheap ones at 2rinkan, versus that nice Tohnichi of yours?
For me I don't mind spending money on quality tools which I know I'm going to use regularly. I have a large collection of Tohnichi torque wrenches (8 different ones) and have had no issues and I believe they will last a lifetime of use if handled and stored with care. Cheap tools may be OK, or they may break during the first use. It's a bit of a gamble...
whats the difference between this vs loosening upper and lower triple clamps and adjusting it from there? and when if ever should that be done instead of this?
wilder17 - if you loosen both the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts the fork tubes will be free slide up, or down in the triple clamps. You’d only do this if you want to remove the forks.
Just wondering, my 2017 excf has a pinch bolt and a mount screw clamping the upper triple clamp to the stem of the lower triple clamp. Does this procedure work if these are not loosened?
Ed Lacika - all the EXC models (2&4T) use the same system. You could loosen the the stem bolt, and pinch bolt, but you’d need to readjust the stem tension when you’ve finished. I have found that the triple clamps/fork tubes easily align without loosing the stem, so don’t find it necessary.
Tokyo Offroad I am servicing my front end for the first time and the factory torque on the pinch bolt and the mount screw clamping the upper triple clamp to the stem of the lower triple clamp provides a lot of clamping force. After I took the forks out the upper and the lower triple clamps are essentially one unit. It seems that unless the entire system is loosened and retightened, the method you are suggesting will leave residual tweak stresses in the assembly even if the wheel appears aligned with the handlebars. I could have this wrong, but the owner's manual recognizes this in the triple tree assembly procedure by tightening the fasteners in the lower triple clamp first and the upper triple clamp fasteners last. What are your thoughts?
Ed Lacika - I see. If you’re installing the triple clamps I recommend that you follow the method detailed is the KTM service manual. The method shown in the video is only intended to re-align the forks following a crash. During a crash I believe that the triple clamps may only become very slightly out of alignment and are under torsion from the stem (i.e. the fork tubes slip slightly in triple clamps). I have found that when the axle and lower triple clamp pinch bolts are loosened the triple clamps will spring back into alignment due to the stem being under a torsional load, typically making a noise when they do. As such I have never found it necessary to loosen the stem pinch bolt.
The procedure is the same no matter which way the wheel is pointing. Loosen the axle right hand side pinch bolts and both sides of the lower triple clamp pinch bolts.
I'm going to pick up a bike (Honda CRF250R 2018) and may need to turn the bars as I'm going to transport it in my car (seats folded of course). Would I be able to follow your instructions on the slackening off and then be able to just manually turn the bars flat - so it sits flat in the car. Obviously the method will vary a little as it's not a KTM.
Thanks for the reply. I was wanting to get the bars turned so that when I put the bike in the back of the the car with the wheels off and the body of the bike lying flat that the bars could be rotated 90 degrees to the forks so they would not take up the same space in the car - if you see what I mean?
Awesome. Threw my bike down practicing this wheelie pivots and noticed my left arm was half bent and right fully extended when riding home! What’s that center stand magic? Have a brand / link?
I just had a doubt If my fork alignment is off (as mentioned by you in your video) Will my bike steer to one side when riding without hands on handlebar? Thanks in advance!
Loosening the lower triples allows them to untwist and align correctly. If both the top and lower triple clamps were loosened the fork tubes would push through when you compress the forks. So just loosening the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and one side of the axle is all that's required.
Hi sir my brand new bike 2month old I have some problems plz any solution Tel me .cons no 1 wen raiding bike my handle littley right direction seeing front wheel pulling right low speed 10 to 20 kph .my right said soldiers pain
I checked all the comments, no one else seems to have the same problem as me. It is, i have to realign my forks after every ride. I do hard technical riding and drop my bike all the time. One little drop and the front end is twisted. Ive cleaned under triple clamps and now i over torque clamps by 2nm. But still one drop of the bike and its out. The only thing i can think is a faulty torque wrench. But it is doing bolts up quite firm. Had this problem since i bought it new. Any other ideas. Please. 2016 300exc
Simoto Enduro - Be sure that the front wheel is installed correctly. It is very important that the axle end bolt is tightened to spec before tightening the pinch bolts. If you’re unsure how to do this Inmade a video showing the method I use. And yes, it would be a good idea to check the calibration of your torque wrench. KTM Dirt Bike Front Wheel Installation ua-cam.com/video/7qRIxzf9nqA/v-deo.html
Simoto Enduro - And if you still have issues even when everything has been tightened correctly you may want to consider using some XTRIG triple clamps which are said to resist fork tube twisting much better than stock clamps.
The fender is mounted to the lower triple clamp. If the wheel isn't aligned it means the fork tubes are tweaked and the upper and lower aren't aligned. By following the method shown in the video you should be able to get everything back into alignment.
Alican Akkaş - No, you can keep the upper triple clamp fork tube pinch bolts tight. Just loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and the right side axle pinch bolt (as shown in the video). When you pump the forks the triple clamps and fork tubes will align correctly. Be sure to re-tighten everything after pumping the forks. This method has always worked for me...
@@TokyoOffroad how about for motorcycles that doesnt have a side axle pinch bolt? I dont know what its called but i think its just the normal axle with the hex head and a hex lock on the other end. Thanks.
I exedently overtorqued the lower tripple clamps instead of 15Nm to 20Nm. After 10 sec I realised i tourqued them wrong so i did them to 15Nm. Will this now have a negativ affect to the forks (damage)?
Hi ! nice video, thanks for it I want to buy a torque wrench for my KTM. What measurements / range / brand do you recommend? I need two? I've been seeing these: Tengtools 3892AG-E3 Torque Wrench 20-110Nm Tengtools 5-25Nm
My personal favorite torque wrench brand is Tohnichi (Japanese torque wrench specialist manufacturer) and specifically the QL-MH all metal range: www.tohnichi.com/products/adjustable-torque-wrench-QLMH.htm If your budget allows I would recommend getting 3 torque wrenches: 2-10Nm (1/4" drive); 10-50Nm (3/8" drive); 40-200Nm (1/2" drive). These would cover all fasteners on the bike, including the primary drive (150Nm). In this video I show some of the torque wrenches I have: ua-cam.com/video/mLUxMKEMeug/v-deo.html If on the other hand your current budget isn't enough to purchase three you might try to find some models which cover a broader range (typically at lower accuracy), or stage your purchase and buy additional ones when funds allow.
To adjust the rear wheel alignment you adjust the left and right axle adjusters. Typically both the left and right adjusters would be set to the same setting. When doing this you'll need to also measure the chain slack, measurement at the end of this video: ua-cam.com/video/ZbFDsAe8Y0U/v-deo.html
The clamps should be tightened incrementally. Snug one, then the other, a bit more, then the other, then torque them. Especially when working with aluminum parts.
Stan Rodgers - I always go to and fro the fasteners to ensure they are both torqued to spec. The triple clamp (15 & 17Nm for Sixdays) and axle clamp (15Nm) are all low torque settings considering the clamping surface area and damage will not occur if you initially tighten one side to spec then the other, then go to and fro.
If it's a small amount of lateral warp it might be possible to improve it by adjusting the spoke tension. If it's dented and want it perfect you'll either need to replace the rim, or have it repaired professionally.
i have regular forks (not inverted) and no matter what i do as soon as i tighten the bolts back it goes back to being not aligned. does anyone know why??
@@captjack8133 no i got it to work what happened was there was rust un the clamps so when i loosened them up they wouldnt move bit i put some wd40 in there and got it to work
Does this really work ? i have a 2018 rmz 450... never had a hard crash or something, but it looks when i ride straight forward my steer is slightly pointing to the left... or my wheel to the right. Which side i need to loosen ?
@@riciardoverbeek - Yes. Only loosen the right side (right when sitting on the bike) axle pinch bolts. Loosen both left and right lower triple clamp fork bolts. You'll need to look up the torque values for all the bolts as your bike is probably different from KTM.
So who came here after a fall or a crash
If you're not dropping, or crashing your bike while riding off-road you're not trying hard enough ;-) Certainly don't recommend trying hard while riding on road though...
Me
Yesssirrr
Me hit a fucking deer
Just hit a parked car going 60 never again 💀
your videos are no bullshit, straight to the point, I like it. keep it up
Thanks. Will do! :-)
Benoit Girard, I thought the same thing!
What a relief
I had to like, subscribe and bookmark it, so I could send it to others that ask.
Benoit Girard Witch Way was you tire bent
Agreed, great video, just the right amount of talk and instruction. All the help is appreciative from folks on UA-cam but so many others make 30 min videos for no reason full of all kinds of bs. Yours was great, thanks for the reminders as it's been a while since I did this. Cheers.
And here I was already shopping for new forks!
me too hahah
Oof
Looooool
Same
Yup me to just flipped my bike thought I bent the forks
That bike has never crashed. Mine looks like it's been through a war... great video, I was totally wrong with my guess as to what to do, glad I didn't try.
I can personally verify that bike has crashed.
Just cuz your bike looks like ass doesn’t mean you ride hard...
Huge THANK YOU for posting this video. My son went down while learning and hit the bark-buster on the throttle side on the ground and twisted the front forks... the alignment was way off. Had a ride scheduled for the next day with my other son and I thought the bike was toast. This video saved the day. This technique worked perfectly and took all of 10 minutes. Subbed and Liked! Thanks again!
That's great! Very pleased the video helped...
I'm new to this sport. I just crashed today in the sand pit, hurt my hand a bit but no worries. Noticed that my fork was off a little after a few seconds dusting off .. "WHAT THE???", googled, got the link to this clip, great stuff. Simple and quick. Thanks man.
This is an excellent technique. I use this on my Freeride 250R when the forks look a little misaligned. The to and fro torquing part is an excellent tip; otherwise the bolts may loosen with riding.
Thank you, was able to fix my TE300 today because of this video,
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.
After crashing my 501 on a dirt trail yesterday my front wheel seemed to be pointed a bit to the right. This method worked perfectly to get everything back in line. Thanks!
I crashed my RM-Z450 at the track and thanks to your video I got everything back in order thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you very much for all your professional tutorials over all these years. Wishing you and your loved ones and all the riding community a happy festive season and a healthy and prosperous 2020. Your help is always and will be highly appreciated.
Thank you for the kind feedback. I'm happy you find the videos useful. Best wishes to you too over the holiday season.
Took my first tumble yesterday on a rocky hill climb. Your instructions did the trick.
Thank you sir.
Thank you very much for posting this video. Out of all the videos that are related to this category. Yours is simplified and easy to follow. Thank you again.
Just straightened out my front end after a crash this weekend thanks for the tips
Thanks so much for this video. I see its about 5 years old now.
It saved me with my 250 Dual sport. I thought I was going to need New Forks.
Was so easy and fast to correct.
Just rebuilding my 86 cr500 and just fitted the forks back on along with the wheel and was baffled why it was so out, I'll give this a bash, nice one!
Great video! My son found this video and shared it with me to realign his KX100. Bike was dropped practicing 360 wheelies on asphalt and I thought something was bent. Work like a charm thanks for the video.
I saw an experiment that explained why we should torque fork pinch bolts only once. Ultimately clinched the inner tube causing resistance
It's not possible to torque both bolts correctly if you only tighten each one once. After tightening the second bolt the torque of the first bolt will not be at spec and needs to be tightened again. If both are at torque but causing resistance on the internals then the torque spec can't be correct. I've had no issues with the method I use on my bikes and I use the KTM published torque specifications (or XTRIG specs as fit now).
That doesn’t seem right to me.. just from loosening them, I’d alternate and the opposite one would be tightened back up once the other was loosened.
I’ve always heard to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern strictly because of this, so in my opinion, there’s no possible way two bolts would NOT need torqued again
Great video! Wrecked my kx250f yesterday and thought I bent the forks. I’ll give this a go. Thanks!
My Natural Hernia Cure any luck???
Thank you for making a quick video about this! I'm about to realign a 2003 CRF150F front end. At first I thought the handlebars were bent, but I think everything will straighten out after this procedure.
Thanks, i just brought a whole tree down
Wow! Hope you’re OK...
lmao, i did a stopie and the rear jerked, i fell and twisted my wrist and cut my leg
I knew YT wouldn't let me down. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
Thank you so much for uploading such a helpful video man... crashed 3 days before Christmas and thats what happened.. it worked on my bike... more power....
Pleased you found the video helpful...
My 2018 CRF250R ‘s front wheel is pointed a little to the left, so I just loosen the same bolts you did and follow the steps from there ?
Yes, it'll work just the same on your CRF250R.
Thank you! I was working on a TTR125 with a slightly different set up, but this worked! Much appreciated!
I found the specs for the front axle pinch bolts, but not the lower triple clamp bolts for my 2017 yz250f! Any other names for the "Lower Triple Clamp pinch bolts" that may be used in my manual?
I hit an immovable rock at speed really hard last ride. Put a big ding in my front rim. I managed to get most of the ding out of the rim. Next ride I noticed my bike was pulling hard to the left when on pavement. As soon as I loosened the lower fork pitch bolts, the tubes moved right back into place. Bike is nice and lined up now
I just came across this video a day after fixing my front end after a crash. Do you not need to loosen the bolts on the top triple clamps and the steering nut as well? I was under the impression tension needs to be released from all parts to align correctly.
I left my wheel on when adjusting but was told taking the wheel off and using the axle by itself gets the best result.
The method I show in the video does not require the top triple clamp to be loosened and the front wheel must be fitted. By applying the front brake and compressing the fork it will overcome the top triple clamp grip in the stem and align the forks. There are other methods too, but this one is quick and easy and works well in my experience.
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you!
Thank you very much! I disassembled my wheels, bars, and all I had to do was pump the forks!! Thank you!
Thanks! Helped me a pile in the middle nowhere. Now that my arm is fixed and wound cleaned, let's do the forks 😁
How does loosening the lower triple clamp help if you don't loosen the upper clamp?
This has helped me out a couple times now. (I'm on an bad roll)
Thanks, just what I needed. Didn't think this misalignment was possible, nice easy fix.
With the forks aligned at the same notch at top, and the wheel removed. Should the axle bolt easily slide through both forks and easily turn? I have heard mixed answers if it should or not. My forks are currently aligned at top and I did the alignment in your video. But I saw a video that said you are in alignment when the tire is removed and you can easily put axle bolt though and turn easily.
Yes, the axle should easily slide through with the front wheel removed. If it doesn’t something is wrong. If the fork leg length is different possibly the forks weren’t assembled correctly.
Could this be the same on a street bike? I purchased a bike but only after riding it noticed that when bike travels straight, the handlebars are turned to the right. It has been previously dropped but has no frame damage.
Thanks a million! I just straightened out my front end after a randevu with the forest floor. Now do you have any advice for a tender mid section (read broken rib)?
On my yamaha ttr 125 I only have 1 big nut on each side of the axle I don't see the 2 small ones you loosened
Thanks for the vid, fixed my bike right up with the help of this video! Keep it uo
My son went down yesterday and twisted his front end. I stood in front of the bike, with the front wheel between my legs, and twisted the handle bars in the necessary direction, and it worked. Today after washing the bike, and I will loosen the indicated bolts, and retorque them.
Hi sir! A couple of questions. Hope you will answer. Why did you loosen only the right side bolts next to the wheel? What about the left? My bike (ktm lc4 prestige) tends to lean a bit to the right. So which side should l choose. Lastly , I have a side stand only , so I can't lift the bike as you did. Can I do this anyways? Thank you!
If the wheel has been installed correctly there is no need to loosen the left side as the axle is pulled hard in to the wheel hub and left fork lug by the axle screw at the end of the axle. The right fork lug is able to move on the axle shaft if force greater than the pinch bolts provide is applied. I.e. it is always the right fork lug which moves on the axle during a heavy crash and causes alignment issues. You can do this on a side stand instead of a lift stand.
Why only loosen one side of the pinch bolts? I need to do this on my ‘17 YZ 250F and do I need to loosen both sides of the punch bolts on the front axle?
The method shown in the video is what I use for KTMs and it works well. If your YZ axle tightening method is different you'll need to change the procedure as appropriate. You should still find that the general method works, even if some details need to be changed though.
Thanks for the help! Simple and to the point video with clear and precise instruction. Huge help
Will this work on 690 enduro? Thank you
just looped my husky te310 today and my front tire was noticeably shifted to the right when the handlebars were straight. i’m going to try this tomorrow because my forks do not look bent. but it was a hard loop, the bike flipped twice
great video ;;i see you´re mounting front turn lights,,,,very nice and small,,,but got it on rear end? i dont see them...thanks from Sapin
If the handlebars alignment is tweaked and the the wheel is off to one side with the bars held straight, how would only loosening the lower triple clamp pinch bolts allow the wheel to straighten up? This essentially means the forks rotated inside the clamps causing the wheel to be off to one side. Wouldn't you need to loosen all the triple clamp bolts so that the fork tubes can rotate freely inside the clamps allowing the wheel to straighten up?
In the video I loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and also the wheel axle right side pinch bolts, then perform the realignment of the fork tube/wheel. If you also loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts the fork tubes will not be held in place and realignment (by applying the front brake and compressing the forks) will not be possible.
I have this issue but I have a little stomp juicebox 110 and the parts u need to loosen are not on my bike how to I fix this??
Does the order that you torque the triple clamps and front axle matter ? I did my axle pinch bolts first, then my triple clamps.
No, the order doesn't matter...
Great video! Elephant in the room! What was all the oil spilling/coming from? Some might wonder if that's supposed to happen or not in this process. You don't say a word about it. Someone doing this for the first time might really be confused from seeing all that oil spraying out to the floor.
Pleased to hear that you enjoyed the video. I'd just washed the bike before the video, so you can see water drip down occasionally when I move it. It's not oil...
What about loosening the main triple clamp big nut? The one that holds both clamps compressed together? I think - when that nut is on - clamps won't move independently. Right?
I understand what you're talking about, but it's not necessary. Because the forks are long they have a lot of leverage on the triple clamps. When you compress forks with the lower triple clamp fork tubes pinch bolts loose the top and bottom triple clamps will self align even if the top triple clamp stem pinch bolt and stem bolt have not been loosened.
Great video but i have a question, do you need a stand to do this?
No, you can do it using the side stand, no problem...
I have a chinese hawk 250. It was crashed. I dont know torque specs n theres no book. What should i do?. Need help !!
Do you think this will work with my Kawasaki z650? Crashed it on sunday and now the wheel is pointing about 5 degrees to the right
Why did you only loosen one side of lower pinch bolts? The right side specifically? Does it matter which side you loosen?
The left side of the axle is pulled over in to the left fork lug and secured in place with the axle screw on the left side and the left pinch bolts. As such, so long as the axle has been installed correctly, the left side can not move in a crash. However the right side fork lug is free to move on the axle if the right pinch bolts are loosened (or in a heavy crash).
How can I buy you a beer? I though I destroyed my bike. I’m going to do this as a part of regular maintenances it’s so easy.
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful...
Is this the same for a honda grom? Which side did you crash on? You loosen the pinch bolts on the crashed side?
The forks/axle will align easiest if you loosen the lower triple clamp fork pinch bolts on both sides. On a KTM the right side axle pinch bolts only need to be loosened. I have never worked on a Grom so am not sure if it's the same type of axle clamping. It doesn't matter which side you crash on, the method is the same.
Thanks, man. Wish I had known this earlier. I'm also an offroader in Japan, btw.
You're welcome to come riding with us. We ride most weekends, usually in Saitama-ken, Gunma-ken, or Yamanashi-san. Please send me a private message if you're interested...
I was always taught to do this but to compress the forks without using the brake as the brake force on one side of the wheel can slightly tweak the axle in the fork bottoms.
What technique do you use to compress the forks with using the front brake?
@@TokyoOffroad hi, you can either do it with locked on rear brake / chocked rear wheel or even carefully chocked front wheel (up against a straight wall etc. I normally do it with rear brake on and bounce it up and down on the bike, but keep it level. seems to work!! cheers
pooatpauls10 - I see. Thanks for sharing. I think doing it against a wall has a risk of tweaking the alignment. I don’t think there is an issue using the front brake and still use this method.
@@TokyoOffroad, yes, try rear brake, you can chock the back end too and get some real compression without touching the front brake. Cheers for you vid and comments
.
I must have not compressed the forks enough because mine is still to the left but better. Also have a fractured rib so can’t really do it hard enough. Can I mount the bike and do it?
Sorry to hear about your injury. I have the same thing right now (broken rib) and it sucks not riding. Yes, you can sit on the bike and compress the forks. Or the other way to do it is to completely remove the forks, loose the top triple clamp steering stem pinch bolt and stem screw (so that the upper and lower clamps can move independently, reinstall the fork tubes (tighten the lower clamp pinch bolts and the front wheel, then with the bike on the ground torque the stem screw to spec and the stem pinch bolt, then tighten the upper triple fork pinch bolts. It you watch this video at the end you'll see this is the method I used: ua-cam.com/video/7eOps1iU1YY/v-deo.html
@@TokyoOffroad thanks a bunch. Hope you recover soon!
I just bought a 2022 ktm xc-w 300 tpi and the front wheel seems crooked and I also noticed one fork is lower than the other. Should I let the dealer take care of this or should I do it myself?
The fork legs should be equal (mounted in the triple clamps with the same stick out at the top and the lowers should be same). If there is a significant difference in the lower length possibly the forks have not been assembled correctly and should be corrected.
Hello @Tokyo Offroad, i've got bent wheel to the right. My manual says when installing front wheel you leave fork bolts unscrewed on both sides and then you need to grab the brake, but you untightened them only on one side. To straighten wheel should I do the same as you or as the manual says? Ktm sxf 250 2015 btw. Thank you.
faganeli matej - I recommend you follow the method shown in the video and only loosen the right side axle pinch bolts (and both sides lower triple clamp pinch bolts).
Tokyo Offroad thanks :)
thanks this was a real help but i have pinch bolts on both sides of my fork and my wheel is off to the left do i losen both
LBS MTB - What bike do you have?
great tips, i assume its the same thing to do to re aligned forks after re assemble the triple clamp and forks after steering bearings change
cadwarrior - Yes, that’s correct
would this technique work on non-inverted regular forks? I'm assuming so
Yes, although the axle details might be different.
Curious why to loosen the axle pinch bolts though. I understand the lower triple tree but don’t see how axle one could twist in the event of wreck.
The right side fork lug can shift on the axle in a heavy crash. It's therefore a very good idea to loosen the right side pinch bolts to allow it to align correctly when you push the forks down.
@@TokyoOffroad 👍
@tokyooffroad. This method worked straightening my wheel today after I wrecked. Inside to inside the forks are not parallel all the way down. Even after spinning and compressing them. Well actually loosening the lower TTC and turning my handle bars straightened it. How do I know exactly if my forks are spaced correctly.
Compressing your forks with the right hand side pinch bolts loose will force the fork tubes to become parallel. If they’re not parallel you’ll find the fork action is harsh as they will tend to bind when being compressed.
So when I loosen the right side pinch bolts and compress the forks repeatedly, I should retighten where it lays? There is no defined measurements? As I mentioned I had to pinch the wheel with my knees and turn the handlebars as this method did not straighten the handlebars completely. They must have twisted in the clamps. When I loosened the axle pinch bolts the fork went out away from the hub. My initial reaction was maybe when it landed it pushed the fork inward. As it fell on that side. Thank you for the advice. I have subscribed and your videos are very well done. @tokyooffroad
I used some ID calipers and there is definitely a bigger gap at the bottom then there is at the lower triple clamp
What lift is that? That seems to make it super easy to pull it up and down! Just getting into the world of dirt bikes from the car world.
It's an old KTM Powerparts stand purchased about 7 years ago
How do you possible rule out bent fork, I have the same issue but the service guy is insisting in opening up the forks to rule out bend, my bike got stuck in a pothole at 5 mph, on the right and now the left handle bar is a bit out when front tyre is straight also the motorcycle glides to the left when I leave my hands off the bar and my left shoulder started to hurt after 10 miles
Bending the fork tubes on these bikes is very unusual. They are extremely tough and unlikely to bend due to a normal off-road tip over type crash. If you hit something at speed, head-on, then yes it is possible to bend the forks. One way to inspect the tubes would be to use two v-blocks and a dial gauge on a stand. Rest the fork tube across the v-blocks, position the dial gauge half way between the v-blocks and take a reading. Then rotate the tube on the v-blocks and measure any variation. The KTM Repair Manual has a specification for lower tube run-out of
@@TokyoOffroad thanks a lot for your reply, I have a jawa 42, bike looks tough but it's rim got bent, is it possible for the fork to bend too?
great short video that helped me out a lot. Thank you!
Thanks mate this helped I didn’t know what was wrong but I was thinking $400 to fix it so thank you this helped heaps
Greetings. I have the WP AER 48's. Question is I was set at the KTM's Comfort- level 17 Compression and 17 Rebound. I switched now... too KTM's Standard-level of 12 Compression and 12 Rebound. Now I know I could go to 12 compression and 17 Rebound? I am 198lbs. I don't race this bike and I Enduro ride, bouncing the bike with my weight for logs and such. Is there a sweet spot that you liked with the setting? I see the 17/17 was Comfortable... Mushie in a way... Just getting your input. Thanks
Sorry but I don't have any experience with AER forks. My 17 is fitted with Dal Soggio Sphere cartridges and my 19 is still stock with WP XPLOR 48 forks. I recommend you ask the same question in the web forum ktmtalk.com and I'm sure you'll receive some helpful replies.
Nice video. Drops is watjer because just washed or oil drops?
It’s water from washing the bike...
Thanks for the video, I'll be doing this as soon as I get a torque wrench. What are your thoughts on the cheap ones at 2rinkan, versus that nice Tohnichi of yours?
For me I don't mind spending money on quality tools which I know I'm going to use regularly. I have a large collection of Tohnichi torque wrenches (8 different ones) and have had no issues and I believe they will last a lifetime of use if handled and stored with care. Cheap tools may be OK, or they may break during the first use. It's a bit of a gamble...
whats the difference between this vs loosening upper and lower triple clamps and adjusting it from there? and when if ever should that be done instead of this?
wilder17 - if you loosen both the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts the fork tubes will be free slide up, or down in the triple clamps. You’d only do this if you want to remove the forks.
I see, thanks man 👍
hello, any idea what a clicking noise could be when pulling handlebars upwards,,,, it happens with front wheel on the floor or up on a stand!!
David Lynch sounds like it could be your head bearing. Hold your front brake and jerk the bike forward and back and watch for play.
Just wondering, my 2017 excf has a pinch bolt and a mount screw clamping the upper triple clamp to the stem of the lower triple clamp. Does this procedure work if these are not loosened?
Ed Lacika - all the EXC models (2&4T) use the same system. You could loosen the the stem bolt, and pinch bolt, but you’d need to readjust the stem tension when you’ve finished. I have found that the triple clamps/fork tubes easily align without loosing the stem, so don’t find it necessary.
Tokyo Offroad I am servicing my front end for the first time and the factory torque on the pinch bolt and the mount screw clamping the upper triple clamp to the stem of the lower triple clamp provides a lot of clamping force. After I took the forks out the upper and the lower triple clamps are essentially one unit. It seems that unless the entire system is loosened and retightened, the method you are suggesting will leave residual tweak stresses in the assembly even if the wheel appears aligned with the handlebars. I could have this wrong, but the owner's manual recognizes this in the triple tree assembly procedure by tightening the fasteners in the lower triple clamp first and the upper triple clamp fasteners last. What are your thoughts?
Ed Lacika - I see. If you’re installing the triple clamps I recommend that you follow the method detailed is the KTM service manual.
The method shown in the video is only intended to re-align the forks following a crash. During a crash I believe that the triple clamps may only become very slightly out of alignment and are under torsion from the stem (i.e. the fork tubes slip slightly in triple clamps). I have found that when the axle and lower triple clamp pinch bolts are loosened the triple clamps will spring back into alignment due to the stem being under a torsional load, typically making a noise when they do. As such I have never found it necessary to loosen the stem pinch bolt.
So mines is pointing to the left when the bar it straight. so what side do i loosen on the bottom pinch bolts?
The procedure is the same no matter which way the wheel is pointing. Loosen the axle right hand side pinch bolts and both sides of the lower triple clamp pinch bolts.
I'm going to pick up a bike (Honda CRF250R 2018) and may need to turn the bars as I'm going to transport it in my car (seats folded of course). Would I be able to follow your instructions on the slackening off and then be able to just manually turn the bars flat - so it sits flat in the car. Obviously the method will vary a little as it's not a KTM.
Are you talking about rotating the bars in the bar clamps to reduce the height? If so this will not affect the alignment of the forks.
Thanks for the reply. I was wanting to get the bars turned so that when I put the bike in the back of the the car with the wheels off and the body of the bike lying flat that the bars could be rotated 90 degrees to the forks so they would not take up the same space in the car - if you see what I mean?
It's not possible to turn the bars at an angle to the forks. They are held in place on top of the triple clamps.
Ah okay. Novice knowledge base showing there. Thanks for your help though. Have a great weekend.
Awesome. Threw my bike down practicing this wheelie pivots and noticed my left arm was half bent and right fully extended when riding home! What’s that center stand magic? Have a brand / link?
Tusk makes one for 65$
I just had a doubt
If my fork alignment is off (as mentioned by you in your video)
Will my bike steer to one side when riding without hands on handlebar?
Thanks in advance!
Yes, with the bars straight the front wheel will point off to the left, or right.
@@TokyoOffroad okay got it
Much thanks for your response
And amazing channel🔥
What would be the purpose of loosening the lower triple clamp?
The top triple clamp still holds the outer fork tubes.
Loosening the lower triples allows them to untwist and align correctly. If both the top and lower triple clamps were loosened the fork tubes would push through when you compress the forks. So just loosening the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and one side of the axle is all that's required.
Hi sir my brand new bike 2month old I have some problems plz any solution Tel me .cons no 1 wen raiding bike my handle littley right direction seeing front wheel pulling right low speed 10 to 20 kph .my right said soldiers pain
I checked all the comments, no one else seems to have the same problem as me. It is, i have to realign my forks after every ride. I do hard technical riding and drop my bike all the time. One little drop and the front end is twisted. Ive cleaned under triple clamps and now i over torque clamps by 2nm. But still one drop of the bike and its out. The only thing i can think is a faulty torque wrench. But it is doing bolts up quite firm. Had this problem since i bought it new. Any other ideas. Please. 2016 300exc
Simoto Enduro - Be sure that the front wheel is installed correctly. It is very important that the axle end bolt is tightened to spec before tightening the pinch bolts. If you’re unsure how to do this Inmade a video showing the method I use. And yes, it would be a good idea to check the calibration of your torque wrench. KTM Dirt Bike Front Wheel Installation ua-cam.com/video/7qRIxzf9nqA/v-deo.html
Simoto Enduro - And if you still have issues even when everything has been tightened correctly you may want to consider using some XTRIG triple clamps which are said to resist fork tube twisting much better than stock clamps.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks a lot thats the first bit of real advice ive ever been given about the issue in 3 years. I know there has to be a fix.
If my handlebars and fender is aligned but the tire is sightly to the right. What needs to be done to align my front tire?
The fender is mounted to the lower triple clamp. If the wheel isn't aligned it means the fork tubes are tweaked and the upper and lower aren't aligned. By following the method shown in the video you should be able to get everything back into alignment.
So if my tire is sightly right. Do I loosen the left side bolts or the right side bolts?
It doesn't matter which way your wheel is tweaked, you still follow the same method shown in the video. Hope it works for you...
do we loose the pinch bolts which take place under the handlebar
(i mean the top pinch bolts)
Alican Akkaş - No, you can keep the upper triple clamp fork tube pinch bolts tight. Just loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and the right side axle pinch bolt (as shown in the video). When you pump the forks the triple clamps and fork tubes will align correctly. Be sure to re-tighten everything after pumping the forks. This method has always worked for me...
okey man ,thanks a lot i will try it but the last question does the stand really needed
No, you can do it without a stand no problem...
ok thanks a lot fro the info
@@TokyoOffroad how about for motorcycles that doesnt have a side axle pinch bolt? I dont know what its called but i think its just the normal axle with the hex head and a hex lock on the other end. Thanks.
love the turtorial whenever i wake up at like 2 pm i’ll try it out and hopefully it will help me out! thank you
Waking up at 2pm living the life
@@hamish2202 haha now I wake up at 5 every morning
After that I just have to loose the upper clamps and do it again ? Or just the lower clamps ?
No, just the lower triple clamp bolts.
I exedently overtorqued the lower tripple clamps instead of 15Nm to 20Nm. After 10 sec I realised i tourqued them wrong so i did them to 15Nm. Will this now have a negativ affect to the forks (damage)?
I think you'll be fine. I doubt any damage has been caused...
What is 15 nm in foot pounds
Bill Board Approximately 11 ft lbs
Could you tell me what bend handle bars you have. I have had to use bars risers to help with my height but yours look tall without bars risers. Thanks
Renthal Fatbar RC High 609-01
Thanks for the info!
Gunna try this tomorrow..mine is a bit more twisted then his so hope it works🤞
I’ve got a 150 XX and the tire is pointed to the right do I loosen the right side axle clamps
Yes, just loosen the right side axle pinch bolts and the lower triple clamp fork tube pinch bolts as shown in the video.
Hi ! nice video, thanks for it
I want to buy a torque wrench for my KTM. What measurements / range / brand do you recommend? I need two?
I've been seeing these:
Tengtools 3892AG-E3 Torque Wrench 20-110Nm
Tengtools 5-25Nm
My personal favorite torque wrench brand is Tohnichi (Japanese torque wrench specialist manufacturer) and specifically the QL-MH all metal range: www.tohnichi.com/products/adjustable-torque-wrench-QLMH.htm
If your budget allows I would recommend getting 3 torque wrenches: 2-10Nm (1/4" drive); 10-50Nm (3/8" drive); 40-200Nm (1/2" drive). These would cover all fasteners on the bike, including the primary drive (150Nm). In this video I show some of the torque wrenches I have: ua-cam.com/video/mLUxMKEMeug/v-deo.html
If on the other hand your current budget isn't enough to purchase three you might try to find some models which cover a broader range (typically at lower accuracy), or stage your purchase and buy additional ones when funds allow.
What do I do if the back tires aren’t aligned?
To adjust the rear wheel alignment you adjust the left and right axle adjusters. Typically both the left and right adjusters would be set to the same setting. When doing this you'll need to also measure the chain slack, measurement at the end of this video: ua-cam.com/video/ZbFDsAe8Y0U/v-deo.html
The clamps should be tightened incrementally. Snug one, then the other, a bit more, then the other, then torque them. Especially when working with aluminum parts.
Stan Rodgers - I always go to and fro the fasteners to ensure they are both torqued to spec. The triple clamp (15 & 17Nm for Sixdays) and axle clamp (15Nm) are all low torque settings considering the clamping surface area and damage will not occur if you initially tighten one side to spec then the other, then go to and fro.
Great video, and to the point. I'll try this out on my bike.
just fixed my bike-
super freakin’ eaay-
THX !
Mine is dented or warped, it makes a weird vibration while riding on pavement. Is it possible to fix for a reasonable price vs purchasing a new wheel?
If it's a small amount of lateral warp it might be possible to improve it by adjusting the spoke tension. If it's dented and want it perfect you'll either need to replace the rim, or have it repaired professionally.
@@TokyoOffroad okay thanks!
i have regular forks (not inverted) and no matter what i do as soon as i tighten the bolts back it goes back to being not aligned. does anyone know why??
Something is bent.
@@captjack8133 no i got it to work what happened was there was rust un the clamps so when i loosened them up they wouldnt move bit i put some wd40 in there and got it to work
Does this really work ?
i have a 2018 rmz 450... never had a hard crash or something, but it looks when i ride straight forward my steer is slightly pointing to the left... or my wheel to the right.
Which side i need to loosen ?
Yes, it should work the same on your RMZ as the way the axle mounts in the forks is the same. Follow the steps in the video and try it...
@@TokyoOffroad thanks ! ill try it tomorrow. does it watter which side im loosing the lowest bolts?
@@riciardoverbeek - Yes. Only loosen the right side (right when sitting on the bike) axle pinch bolts. Loosen both left and right lower triple clamp fork bolts. You'll need to look up the torque values for all the bolts as your bike is probably different from KTM.
@@TokyoOffroad Great thank you so much. the bike is still almost new but that the steer isnt 100% straight is so annoying 🙄😂😂