I got my K1 Max with 4 spools of filament for $535 on Black Friday, and added the Micro Swiss Flow Max hot end for anther $43 (also BF deal) making it a really good value to ne. I do have an X1C as well, but I've definitely been pleased with the K1 Max.
I have been chasing layer consistency for years, so the K1 series having such inconsistent layers makes me sad. Maybe I need to give it a shot with a different hotend and custom extruder, hmm ;D
I've been printing a 300% scale Blastoise as a Christmas gift for a friend on the K1 Max and my X1C. I'd be happy to send you some photos of the prints if that would help?
It's in the video description :D it's the T3 Pro. IR cameras are great for checking the difference of the same surface but due to different materials having different emissivity the readings won't be that accurate.
Perfect video for showing the diffrences between these printers. I have a X1C insted of a voron because it would stress me out and not to be fun anymore. I was thing of getting a K1 but this told me to stay far away. This is also gave me a good understanding of how well bambu did the X1C my printer has about 1500hrs on it now and it's perfect for me. The new update 01.07.02.00 has also fixed most of the noise issues plus the VFA artifacts. Thank you again.
Very well presented comparison. For people that have access to both brands locally the BambuLab looks like better purchase specially for those who have no interest in thinker and modding their machines. However for the ones like me in Brazil Creality is the only way and still cost a lot more... K1 on sale about 600USD and a P1S would run more than 1.600USD (aprox direct currency conversion). So in the end the K1 is the best bang for buck possible and I'm happy with mine comparing to my ancient TEVO.
Great video as always 👍. And I agree completely with all you said. Unfortunately as always with Creality, users need to do the hardest 20% to polish and improve the performances of their printer. I particularly like what I see at 3:30 ❤
Great video. The one thing that really should be said up front is that the K1 is being compared to printers that are more than twice their price (the X1C and the Voron 2.4). Given the $500 price tag, it's really pretty impressive that it's even in the discussion. Sure it's not winning any of these tests, but it's half the price. Granted the K1 Max makes no sense at it's price point. But the K1 seems like a very good value.
Compared with the X1C, the K1 might seem a good value. But, what about comparing it with the P1S ($699) or the P1P ($599)? The Bambu Lab printers have larger build volumes and offer better quality prints for just a few dollars more. And, the Bambu Lab printers allow you to add an AMS in the future should your needs require or your budget allow.
Unless Creality fixes the main print quality problems, I would go every day of the week for the P1S. Sure it costs more, but the difference is insane as P1S is basically X1C without the Lidar. It is fine to have different opinions, I just try to provide a reference point comparing to the X1C as that is infinite time better than comparing to nothing. :)
This video just compares the quality. If it compares quality including all the extra features and tech with that price then it would be clear which is worth the money. And of course the customer service too..
P1S seems to be best atm but just not sure on the company itself and what it stands for like proprietary parts, also support hardly gets back to u etc idk i just idk if i can trust bambu
Honestly, for the price of the K1 Max (I got mine on sale) it wasn't a bad buy. I installed the rooted klipper and a bunch of the fixes (annoying doing this on a brand new machine) and honestly it works quite well now. It's no where near the X1C, but it's good enough.
I am quite happy with the Creality K1-Max since i upgraded from an ender-3. When i bought mine the Creality K1-Max unfortunately was priced over 900$, but i needed a new printer. The only reason i decided to go with the K1-Max instead of the similar priced BambuLab was the bigger buildvolume, if the Bambulab had a similar buildvolume i would have go with it.
I printed technical parts with a X1C (10k accel) and an Ultimaker 2+ Connect (3k accel) and the 90° sharp corners are rounded visibly on the x1c. Have you checked this? I have the photos but I'm not sure how to show you, links are probably not allowed here
X1C and P1S smooths corners quite a bit at higher accels. I suggest printing the outer wall at 3-5K accels and tuning pressure advance for the sharpest corners.
great video... i LOVE my k1... LOL... i got it for 299 as an open box at microcenter... at work we have two x1c, and one is a complete nightmare... had to replace a board, all sorts of stuff... but ours don't print as well as yours... none of us at work will sit down and tune the machine, we just make it print stuff... my k1 is at home, and well, i also want to leave it stock... it's good enough for me, and i know people do some crazy tuning, but for the dumb stuff i print, it's perfect for me... i also have a neptune 3 max with a 0.6 nozzle, and i am so happy with my home printers... the x1c feel like a waste of money for us... we got them with the AMS and only print them in black... LMAO... for a while, we were going to sell them and get 3 k1's, but we got lazy... if it ain't broke right...??
I have k1 and k1 max, after reassembling the gantry in k1 max and calibration i reached the accuracy about 0.07mm in X,Y and A,B axis. At first the accuracy was about +- 0.3mm…. And there are mods for gantry make it stiffer. And there is also problem with vibrations in k1 max, k1 don’t have this issue
Thank you for this! These are all the same things I've noticed with my K1 Max. The part where you mentioned Spongebob prints is exactly what I've been trying to convey to people who say their printer prints flawlessly! No bad product just a bad price is exactly how I've rationalized keeping the printer. Got a really good deal on black friday and I'm getting some acceptable (nowhere close to perfect prints) now after flushing the graphite bushings with alcohol repeatedly. Q
I have the K1 Max and 100% agree with everything here. I have a number of friends with X1C. Would I buy an X1C for the print quality - yes. but not for the price. I am OK with my K1 Max for what I paid.
Very detailed comparison, thanks for that ! I bought X1C just after it was released, with plenty of bugs in the software, but I trusted BambuLab they will fix all issues, and it turned out to be so true. This printer is even better than I expected. But those K1 printers sound like a good deal despite some drawbacks. Well it looks they have stolen plenty of ideas from BambuLab... but BambuLab also have used a lot of work done in 3D world implemented before them. This is how business works. Just to sum up, I think K1 may be a good printer for that price I am thinking that this can be a tool which can support my X1C
You just unscrew the bolts under the PEI sheet in the corners and add wide washers on top of the existing spacers. But this is only if you don't have too big deviation. And you might need to play around with different thickness precision washers to get best results.
Thank you for the video. While we can see the differences, the main competition to K1 Max is P1S and I am not sure where it stands compared to X1C or K1 Max.
Great comparison! If your hobby is to tinker with 3D printers, then the Creality machines are for you. I, personally, would just like my printers to print with great quality out of the box with no tinkering.
I feel like buying a cheap printer and tinkering is perfectly fine, but when we are talking about $500-900 3D printers it feels wrong for you to need to tinker on those.
@@PrintingPerspective Well all depends on what you want to spend your time on. I'd rather use the tool rather than spend time fixing it in order to use it. My goal is to crank out 3D prints, not fix printers.
@@PrintingPerspectiveThe K1 goes frequently under $400, and the K1 Max goes frequently under $600. All this while the X1C rarely if ever goes on sale. While your comparisons are quite valid, it’s honestly just kind of a dumb comparison because they are in completely different price brackets from each other.
You must be an owner of K1 that you have to defend it lol. Even at those prices they are an average value, my modded bedlinger has less ghosting artifacts and better looking layers. What's stupid is somehow being too sensitive that someone made an actual print quality comparison of flagship printers from two companies, you know.
@@PrintingPerspective Actually not. I own a P1S+AMS thank you very much (primarily for cosplay prop making). But I’m not so asinine to think two classes of printers, in completely and utterly separate price brackets, are going to be a fair comparison point. You aren’t wrong that they’ll have print quality differences. But they aren’t even in the same quality realm. Same reason you don’t compare an Ender 3 with a Stratasys. It just isn’t a fair comparison. Sorry if YOU feel the need to justify your video, but I will call out stupid comparisons.
Excellent in-depth analysis and thanks for giving an honest opinion. It seems like no matter what Creality does, their printers always need mods and fixes and for the price of the K1 Max it is just not worth it.
Thanks. Yeah, it seems this way. If Bambu didn't exist these would probably seem like decent printers, I guess, but the reality is that Bambu Lab is on a completely different level. I really wish Creality would step up their game for the real competition.
I have to say, the Creality K1 Max isnt in any way perfect, but i bought it for 700 bucks and in comparison the X1C costs about double that. I had them both to see whith wich one i go. The X1C is a great printer, but its in no way, shape or form better then the K1 Max, im sorry if i upset anyone but if you get problems like the ones shown in the Video with the K1 Max its obviously the fault of the one using the printer not the printer itself. I get perfect Prints from the K1 Max. I admit, i only got these AFTER rooting, installing fluidd, and so on. But who buys a 3D printer and thinks thats it? The X1C is really good but not 1400 bucks good. If they were priced the same the X1C would be my first choice but as it is the K1 Max is a way better choice.
Yes they are working on a multi material implementation. They don’t like the waste of the ams so it might look a little different but yes creality is working on something that can do multi color and multi material
dang, was gonna pick up a k1 max for the bigger plate at micrtocenter tomorrow, but i think now im walking away with a p1s. need to get a second printer, my other one is a p1p!
I wonder what your complains would have been in a Makerbot Cupcake CNC. All these printers are amazing. And not so difficult to upgrade with the printer itself to improve them.
You are comparing a printer with another double the price. So yes the cheaper one needs some work to get to level of the most expensive one. I think it is pretty amazing the K1 for the price and it just works. After spending 6 months on a Makerbot of calibration just to make the draft stick, which required adjusting the z manually. To be honest any printer today is pretty amazing. Of course Bambu is better. But is like comparing 2 cars one is 50k the other 100k … @@PrintingPerspective
I have a K1 and haven't experienced any problems at all, no print failures, no bad layers, it's a very impressive machine that prints everything I throw at it 🔥
@DIYPERSPECTIVE I don't think the hotend is that big of a problem. Ot hotend clones are only 13 usd. It also might be possible to convert the stock extruder into papilio Lite, which might solve a lot of existing problems.
Got My K1 on sale from Microcenter ( sorry I know not everyone has a microcenter near them) after adding the 30 dollar camera that was about 400$. I didnt see another enclosed 3d printer for that price range. I guess I could have bought an open printer and built and enclosure, but no one is making those comparison videos. LOL.
Overall very good and impressive video that you've made. Important note to add about the Ringing on K1- in a lot of situations it can be lowered down by switching to 20 teeth pulleys from the stock 32 - there has been noticed significant improvement in that. I'd disagree just a bit with your point on "not wanting to [update your new printer]" (assuming you meant just firmware upgrade and not also swapping extruder) because looking at how extremely gutted Creality's interface AND config is (Big Kudos to you for mentioning that they were also locking the shapers down to only EI) it only proves more so how bad and limited the default config is and that for you to be able to do ANY basic features that Klippers provides - you cant do it in their interface and you're locked out unless you install rooted firmware. I think what needed to be mention just HOW loud overall the printers are at 65-70db, because that is just not acceptable noise level. I don't know exactly (and you also haven't mentioned) - but I'd assume that on Bambu it's also something proprietary - that the default fan that Creality uses is extremely proprietary model with 4pin connector and you cant physically replace it for a normal alternative, limiting you to either having a 70db (a loud vacuum noise level for comparison) noisy fan or having to limit cooling on the model. Another point that you didnt mention was the maximum bed temperature and it's limitations - while Babulab can go up to 120*C by default, K1 is only 100*C. So you cant print more technical fillaments like PC, PA6/6.6/12, PP, or even just glass/carbon filled ABS. Mind you that even Ender 3 can go to 110*c easily. Exceeeeept that "Limitation" that Creality puts on the max bed temperature - is where they only advertise and state that it is limited to 100*c and even in default configuration it is not locked to 100*C but to 120*C and the reason this is done because cooling was made out of wrong plastic and starts to melt if you go above 100*C on the bed temp - so you have to reprint the cooling part.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I originally had an K1 Max and returned it because of how badly skewed the gantry is. My X and Y measurements were out of square. I got an X1C and it is much better. I would be very interested to see how the Qidi X-Max 3 would compare to the X1C
Hmmm, I doubt it will ever happen. The insanely horrible experience that I had with the X-Plus 3 made me never ever want to touch anything QIDI-related. I have no doubt they improved their printers since, but I just don't have any hope in them. Maybe they will prove me wrong in the future who knows.
Qidi refunded everyone who bought the origin X3 Plus and X3 max and allowed you to kerp it. and stopped selling it, they fixed the issues and are reselling it. they get full marks for customer support.
I don't know if that was cutting the corners or not knowing what they were doing because on some things you just can't cut corners and expect good enough results. They are pretty average printers but Creality can fix them to be pretty decent ones. The only question will they do it.
@@PrintingPerspectiveI think they will fix some issues in next version… but cuts some more corners, so final result is unclear 😂 Look at over9000 Ender 3 revisions)
As a k1 max owner this makes me depressed :( Figured I would expand... Been having first layer problems from the start... and as I am new to 3d printing, I figured it was something that could be fixed with tweaking... Except Reddit and this video seems to show its a problem with the printer itself.
@@dadealeusNot the problem, nozzle was clean... even ran the bed leveling with a clean nozzle and no filament loaded. The Z axis motor also made weird sounds. and the nozzle isn't pressure sensitive, the bed is.
@@dadealeus stopping the belt for one it wont work how you stated... You are the one thats so focused on being right... And focused on that somehow I can't have had a problem with my printer. Printer I have had a refund on now for months...
I mean, haters say they are trash and shills say they are great, haha. But in reality, they are just average. You need to get them at way lower prices, otherwise they offer a poor price to performance ratio in my opinion. I would just go for the P1S as Bambu printers are on a completely different level.
@@PrintingPerspective thanks ! Well i would go for the P1S if i hadn't need for the extra build space. So thats practically my only option right now. I just wanted to know if its good enough, and i really didnt want to buy gidi because it doesnt have the festures i need
fucking finally somebody who sees reality, i hate creality i almost gave up on 3D printing becouse of this brand. Now i have X1C with ams and shes got 1500 hours printing allredy FLAWLESSLY, a lot of people will reccomned K1 or max without any deep dive, from my perspective just like Quidi it looks terribly cheap. plastic plastic and plastic. and the motion system althgouht similar to bambu it aint as consistent and those resonacnes from plastic panels would destroy me. bambu put a lot of considerations into their machines A LOT meanwhile crelity realized bambu is problem so they needed machine to fight the battle, they smacked togeather few parts and created adominations called K1 or K1 max.
I mean, I agree that these machines are horribly made, but stop blaming it on plastic. Look at your bambulab printer it uses a carbon fiber rod. And guess what, those are made of plastic. In this case it's a design issue not a material issue.
The K1 Max is not a bad machine at all - it's some of the design decisions that suck. For example, the input shaper issue could be fixed in a single firmware update, but they haven't for some reason. They basically tune resonance off a single axis and then apply it to both - even though they could just tune both independently (which is what I did after rooting the machine). Additionally, the first layer issues people have is due to their homing/bed mesh generation code. The nozzle is pressure sensitive, so unless you remove previously oozed plastic (or deal with it some other way), it pushes the plastic into the bed instead of the nozzle and gives you an inaccurate bed mesh. I fixed it by simply heating the nozzle to 180C before leveling which melts the plastic enough for the nozzle to push through it to touch the bed). All issues that could be addressed via code, but haven't been. For that, Creality sucks. -but the hardware, itself, has been great.
Jeeezus!!!... this is upsetting... Im supposed to be getting a K1 Max delivered today... I based it on all these videos and comments touting it as an outstanding machine that everyone loves... and now this... Look at flex in those rods... absurd.. how can so many people recommend a freaking 3d printer that cant consistently print????
This is the most and acurrate vídeo comparasion i ever see about this 3 printers, i have a k1 max and all you say is TRUE, the vfa is the most shit thing i hate on my printer, i Drop the fluidd and they get better but bot perfect, its usable but...Is frustrating.
I got the k1 max on sale recently for 600, but its been nothing but nightmare so far. The bed mesh has 1mm+ variance, and it cannot print a good first layer even with the bed mesh. Also the extruder cant push anywhere close to the advertised flow rate. Im returning this, my Voron is much better.
Posted this on a few other comments to try to help out some fellow K1 Max owners: I have a K1 Max and I don't think people understand the first layer issue. The bed leveling uses a pressure-sensitive nozzle that it lowers until it contacts the bed to determine the height of the bed. The issue with this is that if there is any oozing from the previous print that hardened on the tip of the nozzle, it's going to press that plastic into the bed instead of the nozzle. This changes your first-layer height randomly as it presses all over your bed and deforms the bit of plastic on the tip. Now it's definitely an issue with the printer and you arguably shouldn't have to fix it, but that's the nature of 3D printing; it's always something. I fixed it by manually adding some custom gcode in PursaSlicer (the slicer I use) to heat the nozzle to 180C before I generate the bed mesh. I print exclusively in PETG and 180C is enough to make the plastic on the tip smoosh out of the way for the nozzle to touch the bed. Once I did that, my first layers are very reliable. You could likely also just make sure the tip of the nozzle is completely clear of oozing before you begin a print with a small set of flush clippers or something each time, but I wanted something more hands-off. Ideally, I'd like to see a different form of bed leveling, but I'm working with what I've got. Aside from that, the printer has performed well.
I got my K1 Max with 4 spools of filament for $535 on Black Friday, and added the Micro Swiss Flow Max hot end for anther $43 (also BF deal) making it a really good value to ne. I do have an X1C as well, but I've definitely been pleased with the K1 Max.
I have been chasing layer consistency for years, so the K1 series having such inconsistent layers makes me sad. Maybe I need to give it a shot with a different hotend and custom extruder, hmm ;D
I've been printing a 300% scale Blastoise as a Christmas gift for a friend on the K1 Max and my X1C. I'd be happy to send you some photos of the prints if that would help?
Naah, those types of prints hide all the inconsistent layers, it would be impossible to tell anything as mine look good too :)
Send them to me lmao my birthday was last friday so feel free to start on mine next @@reprinted3D
you got a great deal on your k1max. I am tempted to buy one but know as soon as I do, they will come out with the K1C max.
This 3D printer is really awesome! Btw, which infrared thermal camera is this? The temperature measurement tool seems pretty impressive.
Maybe Infiray P2Pro. I got one.
It's in the video description :D it's the T3 Pro. IR cameras are great for checking the difference of the same surface but due to different materials having different emissivity the readings won't be that accurate.
Perfect video for showing the diffrences between these printers. I have a X1C insted of a voron because it would stress me out and not to be fun anymore. I was thing of getting a K1 but this told me to stay far away. This is also gave me a good understanding of how well bambu did the X1C my printer has about 1500hrs on it now and it's perfect for me. The new update 01.07.02.00 has also fixed most of the noise issues plus the VFA artifacts. Thank you again.
Excellent research and info, separates you from many of the other 3d reviewers. Thank you!
Very well presented comparison.
For people that have access to both brands locally the BambuLab looks like better purchase specially for those who have no interest in thinker and modding their machines.
However for the ones like me in Brazil Creality is the only way and still cost a lot more... K1 on sale about 600USD and a P1S would run more than 1.600USD (aprox direct currency conversion).
So in the end the K1 is the best bang for buck possible and I'm happy with mine comparing to my ancient TEVO.
Oh my god, that price difference is insane! :o
@@PrintingPerspective Yeah definitely not easy to be a maker in a country with such high import taxes :(
I'm in the same boat, friend. Just ordered a k1max 'cause it's not within my budget to import a x1c :(
I've been wanting to get K1 for ages, and I finally ordered it! I might be using the same model of smartphone thermal imager as you.
May I know how much you paid for K1?
@@KlankiBirdI 300$
thank you for all the test you made and helping us decide which one to get.
Great video as always 👍. And I agree completely with all you said. Unfortunately as always with Creality, users need to do the hardest 20% to polish and improve the performances of their printer.
I particularly like what I see at 3:30 ❤
Great video. The one thing that really should be said up front is that the K1 is being compared to printers that are more than twice their price (the X1C and the Voron 2.4). Given the $500 price tag, it's really pretty impressive that it's even in the discussion. Sure it's not winning any of these tests, but it's half the price. Granted the K1 Max makes no sense at it's price point. But the K1 seems like a very good value.
Compared with the X1C, the K1 might seem a good value. But, what about comparing it with the P1S ($699) or the P1P ($599)? The Bambu Lab printers have larger build volumes and offer better quality prints for just a few dollars more. And, the Bambu Lab printers allow you to add an AMS in the future should your needs require or your budget allow.
Unless Creality fixes the main print quality problems, I would go every day of the week for the P1S. Sure it costs more, but the difference is insane as P1S is basically X1C without the Lidar. It is fine to have different opinions, I just try to provide a reference point comparing to the X1C as that is infinite time better than comparing to nothing. :)
This video just compares the quality. If it compares quality including all the extra features and tech with that price then it would be clear which is worth the money. And of course the customer service too..
What is your bed level mesh for the K1?@@PrintingPerspective
@@DKWalserbut your Banbu Labs printer is worthless if the internet goes down!
This temperature measuring device is quite innovative, could you recommend it?
Use Creality Slicer next time, I noticed that the banding and z wobble was present with Orca, but not in Creality Slicer.
P1S seems to be best atm but just not sure on the company itself and what it stands for like proprietary parts, also support hardly gets back to u etc idk i just idk if i can trust bambu
Honestly, for the price of the K1 Max (I got mine on sale) it wasn't a bad buy. I installed the rooted klipper and a bunch of the fixes (annoying doing this on a brand new machine) and honestly it works quite well now. It's no where near the X1C, but it's good enough.
I am quite happy with the Creality K1-Max since i upgraded from an ender-3.
When i bought mine the Creality K1-Max unfortunately was priced over 900$, but i needed a new printer.
The only reason i decided to go with the K1-Max instead of the similar priced BambuLab was the bigger buildvolume, if the Bambulab had a similar buildvolume i would have go with it.
I printed technical parts with a X1C (10k accel) and an Ultimaker 2+ Connect (3k accel) and the 90° sharp corners are rounded visibly on the x1c.
Have you checked this?
I have the photos but I'm not sure how to show you, links are probably not allowed here
X1C and P1S smooths corners quite a bit at higher accels. I suggest printing the outer wall at 3-5K accels and tuning pressure advance for the sharpest corners.
Thank you.....I was just about to go for the K1 Max as a more economical to buy alternative to the X1C.
great video... i LOVE my k1... LOL... i got it for 299 as an open box at microcenter... at work we have two x1c, and one is a complete nightmare... had to replace a board, all sorts of stuff... but ours don't print as well as yours... none of us at work will sit down and tune the machine, we just make it print stuff... my k1 is at home, and well, i also want to leave it stock... it's good enough for me, and i know people do some crazy tuning, but for the dumb stuff i print, it's perfect for me... i also have a neptune 3 max with a 0.6 nozzle, and i am so happy with my home printers... the x1c feel like a waste of money for us... we got them with the AMS and only print them in black... LMAO... for a while, we were going to sell them and get 3 k1's, but we got lazy... if it ain't broke right...??
I have k1 and k1 max, after reassembling the gantry in k1 max and calibration i reached the accuracy about 0.07mm in X,Y and A,B axis. At first the accuracy was about +- 0.3mm…. And there are mods for gantry make it stiffer. And there is also problem with vibrations in k1 max, k1 don’t have this issue
Thank you for this! These are all the same things I've noticed with my K1 Max. The part where you mentioned Spongebob prints is exactly what I've been trying to convey to people who say their printer prints flawlessly!
No bad product just a bad price is exactly how I've rationalized keeping the printer. Got a really good deal on black friday and I'm getting some acceptable (nowhere close to perfect prints) now after flushing the graphite bushings with alcohol repeatedly. Q
I am glad that there are people like you who understands that.
Great detailed comparison. Thanks :)
I have the K1 Max and 100% agree with everything here. I have a number of friends with X1C. Would I buy an X1C for the print quality - yes. but not for the price. I am OK with my K1 Max for what I paid.
So, zortrax printers have been forgoten? Why there is no comparison between bamboo or creality´s k1 :(
Very detailed comparison, thanks for that ! I bought X1C just after it was released, with plenty of bugs in the software, but I trusted BambuLab they will fix all issues, and it turned out to be so true. This printer is even better than I expected. But those K1 printers sound like a good deal despite some drawbacks. Well it looks they have stolen plenty of ideas from BambuLab... but BambuLab also have used a lot of work done in 3D world implemented before them. This is how business works. Just to sum up, I think K1 may be a good printer for that price I am thinking that this can be a tool which can support my X1C
TT Sk1 review comming soon?? 12:24
Soon™ ;D
Is there a link to the fan cooling test model? I'm curious to see how it compares to the one from Teaching Tech
Of course. You should have checked the description, but here you go - www.printables.com/model/580503-3d-printer-benchmarking-test-set
Ah, missed it down at the bottom, thank you!
do you have a link to k1 max bed fix with the washers?
You just unscrew the bolts under the PEI sheet in the corners and add wide washers on top of the existing spacers. But this is only if you don't have too big deviation. And you might need to play around with different thickness precision washers to get best results.
Thank you for the video.
While we can see the differences, the main competition to K1 Max is P1S and I am not sure where it stands compared to X1C or K1 Max.
Wish i could understand him seems like a very knowledgeable fella
Great comparison! If your hobby is to tinker with 3D printers, then the Creality machines are for you. I, personally, would just like my printers to print with great quality out of the box with no tinkering.
I feel like buying a cheap printer and tinkering is perfectly fine, but when we are talking about $500-900 3D printers it feels wrong for you to need to tinker on those.
@@PrintingPerspective Well all depends on what you want to spend your time on. I'd rather use the tool rather than spend time fixing it in order to use it. My goal is to crank out 3D prints, not fix printers.
@@PrintingPerspectiveThe K1 goes frequently under $400, and the K1 Max goes frequently under $600. All this while the X1C rarely if ever goes on sale. While your comparisons are quite valid, it’s honestly just kind of a dumb comparison because they are in completely different price brackets from each other.
You must be an owner of K1 that you have to defend it lol. Even at those prices they are an average value, my modded bedlinger has less ghosting artifacts and better looking layers. What's stupid is somehow being too sensitive that someone made an actual print quality comparison of flagship printers from two companies, you know.
@@PrintingPerspective Actually not. I own a P1S+AMS thank you very much (primarily for cosplay prop making). But I’m not so asinine to think two classes of printers, in completely and utterly separate price brackets, are going to be a fair comparison point. You aren’t wrong that they’ll have print quality differences. But they aren’t even in the same quality realm. Same reason you don’t compare an Ender 3 with a Stratasys. It just isn’t a fair comparison. Sorry if YOU feel the need to justify your video, but I will call out stupid comparisons.
Why do you compare the k1 with the x1 and not with the p1? That would make more sense
I don't have the P1S at this moment.
Excellent in-depth analysis and thanks for giving an honest opinion.
It seems like no matter what Creality does, their printers always need mods and fixes and for the price of the K1 Max it is just not worth it.
Thanks. Yeah, it seems this way. If Bambu didn't exist these would probably seem like decent printers, I guess, but the reality is that Bambu Lab is on a completely different level. I really wish Creality would step up their game for the real competition.
they're the Apple of 3D printers. Worth the money for my business tbh@@PrintingPerspective
Can you compare the k1 and the bambu lab a1?
I have plans to do that, just not sure when.
@@PrintingPerspective thanks
I have to say, the Creality K1 Max isnt in any way perfect, but i bought it for 700 bucks and in comparison the X1C costs about double that. I had them both to see whith wich one i go. The X1C is a great printer, but its in no way, shape or form better then the K1 Max, im sorry if i upset anyone but if you get problems like the ones shown in the Video with the K1 Max its obviously the fault of the one using the printer not the printer itself. I get perfect Prints from the K1 Max. I admit, i only got these AFTER rooting, installing fluidd, and so on. But who buys a 3D printer and thinks thats it? The X1C is really good but not 1400 bucks good. If they were priced the same the X1C would be my first choice but as it is the K1 Max is a way better choice.
Honest review.Thx
I want a K1Max .... But I NEED an AMS :(
Does anybody know if Creality is working on some sort of AMS ??
Yes they are working on a multi material implementation. They don’t like the waste of the ams so it might look a little different but yes creality is working on something that can do multi color and multi material
@@darthvader3049 Oh nice.
May I ask where you got that info from?
Professional, looking forward to your evaluation of bambu a1 and a1mini.
Nice work, now I'd like to see a comparison with QIDI: Smart vs A1 Mini, X+ vs P1P.
What was the stl for the caliper measuring holder you used in 8:08 i can't seam to find it?
I uploaded it now.
@@PrintingPerspective thank you for the fast reply
dang, was gonna pick up a k1 max for the bigger plate at micrtocenter tomorrow, but i think now im walking away with a p1s. need to get a second printer, my other one is a p1p!
I wonder what your complains would have been in a Makerbot Cupcake CNC. All these printers are amazing. And not so difficult to upgrade with the printer itself to improve them.
Depends on the person and what is their goal with the printer, you know.
You are comparing a printer with another double the price. So yes the cheaper one needs some work to get to level of the most expensive one. I think it is pretty amazing the K1 for the price and it just works. After spending 6 months on a Makerbot of calibration just to make the draft stick, which required adjusting the z manually. To be honest any printer today is pretty amazing. Of course Bambu is better. But is like comparing 2 cars one is 50k the other 100k … @@PrintingPerspective
Very good comparison, I was seriously considering K1, but after seeing the lines, I think I'll wait
I have a K1 and haven't experienced any problems at all, no print failures, no bad layers, it's a very impressive machine that prints everything I throw at it 🔥
Thanks, yeah those layers look pretty bad. :/ And it seems it is only fixable with a better hotend and extruder combo.
@DIYPERSPECTIVE I don't think the hotend is that big of a problem. Ot hotend clones are only 13 usd.
It also might be possible to convert the stock extruder into papilio Lite, which might solve a lot of existing problems.
100% got my K1 max 1 week ago and have none of the issues presented in this video, maybe he has the gen 1 or 2 extruders.@@LexxDesign3D
Got My K1 on sale from Microcenter ( sorry I know not everyone has a microcenter near them) after adding the 30 dollar camera that was about 400$. I didnt see another enclosed 3d printer for that price range. I guess I could have bought an open printer and built and enclosure, but no one is making those comparison videos. LOL.
Excellent review and very "current" !
Overall very good and impressive video that you've made. Important note to add about the Ringing on K1- in a lot of situations it can be lowered down by switching to 20 teeth pulleys from the stock 32 - there has been noticed significant improvement in that.
I'd disagree just a bit with your point on "not wanting to [update your new printer]" (assuming you meant just firmware upgrade and not also swapping extruder) because looking at how extremely gutted Creality's interface AND config is (Big Kudos to you for mentioning that they were also locking the shapers down to only EI) it only proves more so how bad and limited the default config is and that for you to be able to do ANY basic features that Klippers provides - you cant do it in their interface and you're locked out unless you install rooted firmware.
I think what needed to be mention just HOW loud overall the printers are at 65-70db, because that is just not acceptable noise level. I don't know exactly (and you also haven't mentioned) - but I'd assume that on Bambu it's also something proprietary - that the default fan that Creality uses is extremely proprietary model with 4pin connector and you cant physically replace it for a normal alternative, limiting you to either having a 70db (a loud vacuum noise level for comparison) noisy fan or having to limit cooling on the model.
Another point that you didnt mention was the maximum bed temperature and it's limitations - while Babulab can go up to 120*C by default, K1 is only 100*C. So you cant print more technical fillaments like PC, PA6/6.6/12, PP, or even just glass/carbon filled ABS. Mind you that even Ender 3 can go to 110*c easily.
Exceeeeept that "Limitation" that Creality puts on the max bed temperature - is where they only advertise and state that it is limited to 100*c and even in default configuration it is not locked to 100*C but to 120*C and the reason this is done because cooling was made out of wrong plastic and starts to melt if you go above 100*C on the bed temp - so you have to reprint the cooling part.
What cooling part are you talking about sorry?
Great analysis
Thanks :)
I'm going to test the $1200 bambu printer against the $500 creality printer... news flash... the $1200 printer is better. Who would have thought it.
Great comparison but stuggled to understand what you saying by mid video
First unbiase review, thanks
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I originally had an K1 Max and returned it because of how badly skewed the gantry is. My X and Y measurements were out of square. I got an X1C and it is much better.
I would be very interested to see how the Qidi X-Max 3 would compare to the X1C
Hmmm, I doubt it will ever happen. The insanely horrible experience that I had with the X-Plus 3 made me never ever want to touch anything QIDI-related. I have no doubt they improved their printers since, but I just don't have any hope in them. Maybe they will prove me wrong in the future who knows.
Qidi refunded everyone who bought the origin X3 Plus and X3 max and allowed you to kerp it. and stopped selling it, they fixed the issues and are reselling it. they get full marks for customer support.
This was a very revealing video, I didn't realize Creality cut so many corners compared to Bambu
I don't know if that was cutting the corners or not knowing what they were doing because on some things you just can't cut corners and expect good enough results. They are pretty average printers but Creality can fix them to be pretty decent ones. The only question will they do it.
@@PrintingPerspectiveI think they will fix some issues in next version… but cuts some more corners, so final result is unclear 😂 Look at over9000 Ender 3 revisions)
As a k1 max owner this makes me depressed :(
Figured I would expand...
Been having first layer problems from the start... and as I am new to 3d printing, I figured it was something that could be fixed with tweaking...
Except Reddit and this video seems to show its a problem with the printer itself.
@@dadealeusNot the problem, nozzle was clean... even ran the bed leveling with a clean nozzle and no filament loaded.
The Z axis motor also made weird sounds.
and the nozzle isn't pressure sensitive, the bed is.
@@dadealeus K1 max has 4 piezoelectric pressure sensors, each one under the 4 attachment bolts of the bed to the Z gantry.
@@dadealeus stopping the belt for one it wont work how you stated...
You are the one thats so focused on being right... And focused on that somehow I can't have had a problem with my printer.
Printer I have had a refund on now for months...
@@givemeanameman1 You're not worth the time, bro.
After two weeks of fighting and trying literally everything, i give up. Ots structurally fucked. Never regretted purchase more.
:(
I happen to have a k1 max and the noise you show here is much exagerated. It is much less than you are showing here. Greetings🙂
I just cant decide... Most people say that its good but some says that its bad..
I mean, haters say they are trash and shills say they are great, haha. But in reality, they are just average. You need to get them at way lower prices, otherwise they offer a poor price to performance ratio in my opinion. I would just go for the P1S as Bambu printers are on a completely different level.
@@PrintingPerspective thanks ! Well i would go for the P1S if i hadn't need for the extra build space. So thats practically my only option right now. I just wanted to know if its good enough, and i really didnt want to buy gidi because it doesnt have the festures i need
The K1 and Max look bad compared to the X1C in your pic on max acceleration. There's all sorts of added surface artifacting on the K1s.
Yes, they look pretty bad and I couldn't fix them. :/
u didnt root K1 maybe......after root its insane
fucking finally somebody who sees reality, i hate creality i almost gave up on 3D printing becouse of this brand. Now i have X1C with ams and shes got 1500 hours printing allredy FLAWLESSLY, a lot of people will reccomned K1 or max without any deep dive, from my perspective just like Quidi it looks terribly cheap. plastic plastic and plastic. and the motion system althgouht similar to bambu it aint as consistent and those resonacnes from plastic panels would destroy me. bambu put a lot of considerations into their machines A LOT meanwhile crelity realized bambu is problem so they needed machine to fight the battle, they smacked togeather few parts and created adominations called K1 or K1 max.
It is impossible to see it any other way when you test it properly and see those results, you know, haha!
I mean, I agree that these machines are horribly made, but stop blaming it on plastic.
Look at your bambulab printer it uses a carbon fiber rod. And guess what, those are made of plastic.
In this case it's a design issue not a material issue.
The K1 Max is not a bad machine at all - it's some of the design decisions that suck. For example, the input shaper issue could be fixed in a single firmware update, but they haven't for some reason. They basically tune resonance off a single axis and then apply it to both - even though they could just tune both independently (which is what I did after rooting the machine).
Additionally, the first layer issues people have is due to their homing/bed mesh generation code. The nozzle is pressure sensitive, so unless you remove previously oozed plastic (or deal with it some other way), it pushes the plastic into the bed instead of the nozzle and gives you an inaccurate bed mesh. I fixed it by simply heating the nozzle to 180C before leveling which melts the plastic enough for the nozzle to push through it to touch the bed).
All issues that could be addressed via code, but haven't been. For that, Creality sucks. -but the hardware, itself, has been great.
I’m wondering if you dried your filament before doing any of these tests? All these tests would be pointless if your filament wasn’t dry…
Jeeezus!!!... this is upsetting... Im supposed to be getting a K1 Max delivered today... I based it on all these videos and comments touting it as an outstanding machine that everyone loves... and now this... Look at flex in those rods... absurd.. how can so many people recommend a freaking 3d printer that cant consistently print????
the K1 series are kinda bad i guess unless u get them on sale fo rlike 300
I just got a k1 for a$ 600 (u$ 410)
This is the most and acurrate vídeo comparasion i ever see about this 3 printers, i have a k1 max and all you say is TRUE, the vfa is the most shit thing i hate on my printer, i Drop the fluidd and they get better but bot perfect, its usable but...Is frustrating.
I got the k1 max on sale recently for 600, but its been nothing but nightmare so far. The bed mesh has 1mm+ variance, and it cannot print a good first layer even with the bed mesh. Also the extruder cant push anywhere close to the advertised flow rate. Im returning this, my Voron is much better.
Yeah, it is hard to justify K1 Max even for $600 after I made all these tests.
Posted this on a few other comments to try to help out some fellow K1 Max owners:
I have a K1 Max and I don't think people understand the first layer issue. The bed leveling uses a pressure-sensitive nozzle that it lowers until it contacts the bed to determine the height of the bed. The issue with this is that if there is any oozing from the previous print that hardened on the tip of the nozzle, it's going to press that plastic into the bed instead of the nozzle. This changes your first-layer height randomly as it presses all over your bed and deforms the bit of plastic on the tip.
Now it's definitely an issue with the printer and you arguably shouldn't have to fix it, but that's the nature of 3D printing; it's always something.
I fixed it by manually adding some custom gcode in PursaSlicer (the slicer I use) to heat the nozzle to 180C before I generate the bed mesh. I print exclusively in PETG and 180C is enough to make the plastic on the tip smoosh out of the way for the nozzle to touch the bed. Once I did that, my first layers are very reliable.
You could likely also just make sure the tip of the nozzle is completely clear of oozing before you begin a print with a small set of flush clippers or something each time, but I wanted something more hands-off.
Ideally, I'd like to see a different form of bed leveling, but I'm working with what I've got. Aside from that, the printer has performed well.
algo