Interesting video. The motor is such a solid design and so easy to work on. I love the quality of the engineering, all nickel plated, right down to the slot in the top of the carbon brushes, and not a phillips head screw in sight. Hornby Dublo really did make the best valve gear. 😊
It is always nice to work on these items Pauline. I know that they are a little rudimentary but the engineering is so nice and as you say no Phillips screws here. Thanks for watching, all the best to you
You can't beat a good take to bits👍👍 Over a piece of Terry towel👍 Doesn't stop springs going into low Earth orbit, but stops other small parts bouncing into the carpet pile😵💫 and you can wipe your fingers on the towel not down the front of your shirt😱 Mrs S. will be pleased, unless it's the best towel🤣 👍👍
That's a good idea about the towel, soaks up energy so bits stay put, excellent. I might still use my shirt for the occasional wipe though, it's hard to break habits sometimes. Take care, best regards to you
Excellent video, a very well explained strip down and service, these types of videos are very interesting and help people who would like to fix there own . Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this video. Hornby definitely had an attitude that has all but disappeared these days - build it like a tank so it lasts. I've just made an interesting discovery rebuilding the motor in my newly acquired Duchess; all the usual checks were made - winding resistance, clean commutator, lube, set end float etc. It ran fine except at slow speeds where it was very jerky and would sometimes just stop, so I decided to clean the commutator again, this time using a cotton bud and some brake cleaner while the motor was running. To my surprise the revs shot up as soon as I applied the cotton bud and my first thought was that I had just cleaned a load of muck off, but as soon as I removed the cotton bud the revs dropped again; it seemed as if the brake cleaner was acting as a lubricant and allowing the motor to speed up although this seemed to be a bit of an extreme change for that. So I removed the armature and inspected the commutator very closely, discovering that although clean, its surface was as rough as a rough thing that was very rough. I then did the same as you do with a glass fibre brush and a drill to polish the surface up (I'm unwilling to use anything more aggressive). On re-assembly, the motor ran far better at all revs, and vastly better at very low revs; applying a cotton bud with brake cleaner now made no difference to the motor speed, so I can only conclude that I had a huge excess of friction from the commutator/brush interface of all places.
Hello Roger and a Happy 2023 to you. How interesting about your motor. It does sound as if the brake cleaner acted as a lubricant. Have you checked the brush springs are original and not ones that are too strong? Good to hear it ran better after a buff up with the glass fibre brush, I hope it continues to run well. Best regards to you
Nice work. When I serviced my non runner West Country Class Barnstaple I could have done with this video. I did manage to get her running again however. One thing to check is that the grub screw on the drive cog is tight. If that comes lose the cog gets off center and jams the drive worm. Looking forward to seeing yours running again. Mon from Brisbane
Hello Mom, that's such a good point you raise about that drive gear. On some Hornby Dublo and Wrenn items they actually have two grub screws in the big drive gear. Good to hear your Barnstaple is going nicely. Best regards to you
Great video, thank you Mr Snooze. I don't have any HD or Wrenn locos (mostly Triang) but found this really interesting. Yes please to more bench-work videos, there's always something to learn from them. Thanks again.
Excellent video demonstration Mr. Snooze. I have never had one of those motors on my work bench and must admit that I might well have been a little intimidated looking at that. I'm quite sure I would do just fine servicing one of those now. Looking forward to seeing the loco in action. Regards, David.
What a great runner! Almost being able to see it as it was out of the factory is such a great feeling isn't it. Personally i compare it to the repair shop except i'm usually the repairer and the owner. Can't wait to see more dublo/wrenn on the layout Kind regards Will
@@MrSnooze Indeed yes, my locos spend more time having initial repairs or investigations than they do out running! Unfortunately i have a 'seasonal' layout as the garage is the only free space for my board, and winter comes and it warps like the onld acetate locos and shreds the track. Any loco mechanism put in front of me i love to work on, and your channel is something i love to watch!
@@williamscates3915 Thanks for the positive feedback, I hope you like the upcoming content on the channel. My loft is not heated so well and winter running is slightly more challenging. Still I wrap up and the old locos keep running. I hope you find a way to stop the warping. Maybe a strengthening brace underneath. Best regards to you
Brilliant Tutorial Video. You Being Ambidextrous Makes Viewing The Close Up Work So Much Easier. Do You Think The Original Fault Was Over Tightening Of The Nut And Bearing Screw ? Looking Forward To Seeing It On The Super 4 Mainline 👍
Hello Tim, I'm pleased you can see most of what I'm doing. It is sometimes a little tricky to keep things in the view of the camera. I think the main problem with this motor was oil and dirt on the commutator. This really causes issues. Hopefully it will be pulling some wagons soon. Best regards to you
Love the HD/Wrenn 8F. For armature cleaning have you considered 00Bill’s T-cut method? It does work really well. And a « gude scrroooch » with contact cleaner😂
Hello Robin, there is no doubt that Bill gets some superb results with his process. Indeed he also does use the contact cleaner to great effect, I have some myself and it is excellent stuff. Maybe I'll give the T-cut method a try too, it's such good fun learning new ways to service these items. Take care, best regards to you
These motors are quite easily converted to DCC. Just press out the earthed brush holder and then drill the hole to take a Tufnol sleeve you can easily turn and bore. One of the four screws needs to be replaced with a nylon one to preserve insulation. The slow running is excellent after conversion.
Thanks for watching. That sounds a good method of isolating the earth brush. I suppose you could do the same to the Hornby Dublo vertical motor say in a City Of London. It's interesting that you say the performance is good on DCC. Best regards to you
Very interesting demonstration Mr Snooze, great to see these old models can just go on & on with a bit of tlc from time to time. I’m sure my older serviceable locomotives will out live my modern ones with there throw away motors.
Hello Robin, I'm sure when the time comes we will all find ways to make the newer items more repairable, they are made surprisingly well. I do get one or two come my way for the odd repair. Thanks for watching, all the best to you
Snooze (I love saying that), It appears mazac/zamac/mazak/zamak/ whatevereseit is mak has aluminium and magnesium in it, which probably explains its unsolderability. I remember an add in Kalmbach's 'Model Railroader' featuring (probably electroless) copper plating on 'diecast' as a preliminary for soldiering. The photo showed a loco casting hanging by a rod soldered onto a spot plated area. I once asked a plater re copper plating prior to soldering. He thought the copper plating would be robust enough. Remember the plating would be somewhat better than we can do at home. Came across the same idea in a model car restoration; results were mixed. The idea is worth research with an eye to repairs. Most interesting loco is the HD/Wrenn 8F. It has much in common with the Castle, but runs only half as well. Much enjoyed. Thanks. @@MrSnooze
Interesting video. The motor is such a solid design and so easy to work on. I love the quality of the engineering, all nickel plated, right down to the slot in the top of the carbon brushes, and not a phillips head screw in sight. Hornby Dublo really did make the best valve gear. 😊
It is always nice to work on these items Pauline. I know that they are a little rudimentary but the engineering is so nice and as you say no Phillips screws here. Thanks for watching, all the best to you
Good morning Mr Snooze great to watch and such a lovely motor.
Take care.
Oscar
These are indeed great motors. It's always satisfying to get something running nicely. Best regards to you
You can't beat a good take to bits👍👍 Over a piece of Terry towel👍 Doesn't stop springs going into low Earth orbit, but stops other small parts bouncing into the carpet pile😵💫 and you can wipe your fingers on the towel not down the front of your shirt😱 Mrs S. will be pleased, unless it's the best towel🤣 👍👍
That's a good idea about the towel, soaks up energy so bits stay put, excellent. I might still use my shirt for the occasional wipe though, it's hard to break habits sometimes. Take care, best regards to you
@@MrSnooze Habits, Hmm. Chest! armpits! thighs! & backside! if stood! I've got the "swipe marked" T shirt & jeans😁 Also?🤣
Excellent video, a very well explained strip down and service, these types of videos are very interesting and help people who would like to fix there own .
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Martin, I'm glad you found this interesting. Take care, all the best to you
Nice work
Thanks Nick, it's running around nicely now. All the best to you
Hi from Glasgow Another great video 📹 from you Sir
Thank you Cameron, It's good to here you liked this. Best regards to you
Good evening. That was really interesting and rewarding watching you service that old motor 👍🏻
Thanks Stevie, That's good of you to say, I probably should have tried to make the video a bit shorter though. All the best to you
great video, thank you
Thanks for watching and the kind comment, all the best to you
Thanks for this video. Hornby definitely had an attitude that has all but disappeared these days - build it like a tank so it lasts. I've just made an interesting discovery rebuilding the motor in my newly acquired Duchess; all the usual checks were made - winding resistance, clean commutator, lube, set end float etc. It ran fine except at slow speeds where it was very jerky and would sometimes just stop, so I decided to clean the commutator again, this time using a cotton bud and some brake cleaner while the motor was running. To my surprise the revs shot up as soon as I applied the cotton bud and my first thought was that I had just cleaned a load of muck off, but as soon as I removed the cotton bud the revs dropped again; it seemed as if the brake cleaner was acting as a lubricant and allowing the motor to speed up although this seemed to be a bit of an extreme change for that. So I removed the armature and inspected the commutator very closely, discovering that although clean, its surface was as rough as a rough thing that was very rough. I then did the same as you do with a glass fibre brush and a drill to polish the surface up (I'm unwilling to use anything more aggressive). On re-assembly, the motor ran far better at all revs, and vastly better at very low revs; applying a cotton bud with brake cleaner now made no difference to the motor speed, so I can only conclude that I had a huge excess of friction from the commutator/brush interface of all places.
Hello Roger and a Happy 2023 to you. How interesting about your motor. It does sound as if the brake cleaner acted as a lubricant. Have you checked the brush springs are original and not ones that are too strong? Good to hear it ran better after a buff up with the glass fibre brush, I hope it continues to run well. Best regards to you
Excellent video, first time I've seen one of those motors, definitely built to last and be serviceable all the best
Hello Bob, it is nice to be able to take them apart easily. They were built to last for sure. Best regards to you
Nice work.
When I serviced my non runner West Country Class Barnstaple I could have done with this video.
I did manage to get her running again however.
One thing to check is that the grub screw on the drive cog is tight. If that comes lose the cog gets off center and jams the drive worm.
Looking forward to seeing yours running again.
Mon from Brisbane
Hello Mom, that's such a good point you raise about that drive gear. On some Hornby Dublo and Wrenn items they actually have two grub screws in the big drive gear. Good to hear your Barnstaple is going nicely. Best regards to you
Great video, thank you Mr Snooze. I don't have any HD or Wrenn locos (mostly Triang) but found this really interesting. Yes please to more bench-work videos, there's always something to learn from them. Thanks again.
Hello Peter, I shall do a video on the Tri-ang XO4 soon, it is such a great motor. Take care, all the best to you
More to the old motors than meets the eye! Yes, I enjoy the whole hobby so a change is equally welcome. ATB, Andy.
Thanks for watching Andy, It is nice to run the railway but fun to do repairs too. Best regards to you
Excellent video demonstration Mr. Snooze. I have never had one of those motors on my work bench and must admit that I might well have been a little intimidated looking at that. I'm quite sure I would do just fine servicing one of those now. Looking forward to seeing the loco in action. Regards, David.
I enjoyed getting this running better David. Oil on the commutator is a nasty problem I find in these older items. Best regards to you
What a great runner! Almost being able to see it as it was out of the factory is such a great feeling isn't it. Personally i compare it to the repair shop except i'm usually the repairer and the owner.
Can't wait to see more dublo/wrenn on the layout
Kind regards
Will
Hello William, there is definitely something satisfying about a successful repair, sounds like you enjoy working on things too. All the best to you
@@MrSnooze Indeed yes, my locos spend more time having initial repairs or investigations than they do out running! Unfortunately i have a 'seasonal' layout as the garage is the only free space for my board, and winter comes and it warps like the onld acetate locos and shreds the track. Any loco mechanism put in front of me i love to work on, and your channel is something i love to watch!
@@williamscates3915 Thanks for the positive feedback, I hope you like the upcoming content on the channel. My loft is not heated so well and winter running is slightly more challenging. Still I wrap up and the old locos keep running. I hope you find a way to stop the warping. Maybe a strengthening brace underneath. Best regards to you
@@MrSnooze I look forward to it very much! and if my board has more bracing it shall be a long set of battens!
Best wishes to you
Brilliant Tutorial Video. You Being Ambidextrous Makes Viewing The Close Up Work So Much Easier. Do You Think The Original Fault Was Over Tightening Of The Nut And Bearing Screw ? Looking Forward To Seeing It On The Super 4 Mainline 👍
Hello Tim, I'm pleased you can see most of what I'm doing. It is sometimes a little tricky to keep things in the view of the camera. I think the main problem with this motor was oil and dirt on the commutator. This really causes issues. Hopefully it will be pulling some wagons soon. Best regards to you
Love the HD/Wrenn 8F.
For armature cleaning have you considered 00Bill’s T-cut method? It does work really well. And a « gude scrroooch » with contact cleaner😂
Hello Robin, there is no doubt that Bill gets some superb results with his process. Indeed he also does use the contact cleaner to great effect, I have some myself and it is excellent stuff. Maybe I'll give the T-cut method a try too, it's such good fun learning new ways to service these items. Take care, best regards to you
@@MrSnooze all the best to you too. Always nice to see these videos!
These motors are quite easily converted to DCC. Just press out the earthed brush holder and then drill the hole to take a Tufnol sleeve you can easily turn and bore. One of the four screws needs to be replaced with a nylon one to preserve insulation. The slow running is excellent after conversion.
Thanks for watching. That sounds a good method of isolating the earth brush. I suppose you could do the same to the Hornby Dublo vertical motor say in a City Of London. It's interesting that you say the performance is good on DCC. Best regards to you
Very interesting demonstration Mr Snooze, great to see these old models can just go on & on with a bit of tlc from time to time. I’m sure my older serviceable locomotives will out live my modern ones with there throw away motors.
Hello Robin, I'm sure when the time comes we will all find ways to make the newer items more repairable, they are made surprisingly well. I do get one or two come my way for the odd repair. Thanks for watching, all the best to you
Snooze
You mention 'aluminium'. That interested me as I thought it was mazac/zamac????
Pete
Yes, I'm sure you are right Pete, I must have mixed my words. Best regards to you
Snooze (I love saying that),
It appears mazac/zamac/mazak/zamak/ whatevereseit is mak has aluminium and magnesium in it, which probably explains its unsolderability. I remember an add in Kalmbach's 'Model Railroader' featuring (probably electroless) copper plating on 'diecast' as a preliminary for soldiering. The photo showed a loco casting hanging by a rod soldered onto a spot plated area. I once asked a plater re copper plating prior to soldering. He thought the copper plating would be robust enough. Remember the plating would be somewhat better than we can do at home. Came across the same idea in a model car restoration; results were mixed. The idea is worth research with an eye to repairs.
Most interesting loco is the HD/Wrenn 8F. It has much in common with the Castle, but runs only half as well.
Much enjoyed. Thanks.
@@MrSnooze