You should do a test with the laser gun and see if with the top end stick you can consistently load a harder and faster shot, or if the difference with a low end stick isn´t that noticable.
IDK if this matter but the sticks he used in the video, QR4 and the HD4, are on clearance and can be found for around $60. If you look hard enough you can find $100 sticks for $50-60
+The Hockey Movement by How To Hockey What kind of grip do you use on the sticks? never seen before but they look nice. Edit: nevermind, a google search helped me find it
I actually like the feel of my Bauer X (paid around $87 for it). It’s a nice weight not too heavy not too light. only thing I really don’t like about it is that weird sticky “grip” texture.
I have a bauer vapor 1x, and my friend has an x700. In practice, we swich sometimes, and I definetly feel the difference between the two. Then again, the 1x is one of the lightest sticks on the market. Sweet video
Hey Jeremy, just wanted to say how much i appreciate your channel and very informative content. It's really helped me develop as a player. So much so, that I made my highschool team and, in the first game, got 2 goals in 30 seconds and a hattie in the second game. The coaches are really pleased with my hard work and, let me tell ya, it pays off. Thanks again for your great videos! They're second to none!
Personal opinion from a bad hockey player, with how good all hockey equipment is today there are few pieces of equipment that you should spend a lot of money on; and in my opinion a good pair of skates and a decent helmet are probably the highest priorities. With something like a stick I would expect that the average player would probably not notice much of a difference while actually playing.
HappySqrl half the rec players use these sticks and can't handle basic passes.if you don't have decent hands don't buy a composite stick pucks will just bounce of your blade
First, beauty goalie with the Kidd/Sparks pads. Second, I agree that a $99 stick is going to work great for MOST people. Unless you're a guy who played some really high level hockey in juniors or college or something, you're probably not skilled enough to notice the difference except for the weight. Even then, 100g shouldn't have a noticeable affect on your game unless you're a pretty elite player. I completely agree that the $99 sticks are going to be more durable, and for that reason alone I think it's really the sweet spot for beer league. It's not like it was 10 years ago where cheap sticks were garbage. You really can't go wrong with anything at that price point, for the most part. Would be curious to see a super slow mo review of them flexing while shooting and some more info on puck feel while stickhandling. A blind test would be great.
I just started getting back into hockey for the first time since high school, I'm in the process of losing a lot of weight too. Sticks are incredibly lighter than when I played, and it's like going from a tree branch to a Sci fi hockey twig. I cannot wait to get my CCM clearance stick to practice shooting. I had a wicked snapshot on my 100+ flex stick but I'll have to work on my mechanics. I also bought dry boards to work on my stick handling. Cannot wait to keep working on all these skills and skating especially. Thanks Coach Jeremy for all the inspiration and the awesome videos! I definitely recommend for anyone not sure, get a good $100 stick to take a TON of shots with and stick handle with and do not be afraid of putting as much power into your shot as you can.
Exactly what I do. I look at my playing style as a bit of a playmaker so I generally purchase a light stick from the year before. Just picked up a CCM RBZ SuperFast from last year for $150.
Hell I use a wooden stick that has a composite blade. I like is just fine. It's the standard Fischer brand hockey stick available at the Sportmaster store in Russia. If you love the game enough the stick doesn't matter too much. Go Habs go!
i bought a bauer surpreme one 55 like 9 or 10 years ago when playing in a hobby league. dont know its flex but its got the "naslund" print. i still have that stick...using it for shooting on a pad. still works great. and it was about 40€...or maybe 60-70$. so in my opinion...its not about the price (same about skates), its more about how comfortable you feel with it and if you cant improve your style of playing with that equipment.
I recently came back to hockey after 20 years of not playing (mostly because it's not a terribly popular sport in my area so I had trouble finding people to play with for quite a long time). Due to a tight budget around the time I was re-aquiring equipment to play, all four of my sticks are used (I got one off Ebay then stumbled across a too-good-to-ignore deal in a secondhand shop, 3 sticks - two of them models that were originally in the $150 range - for $2). My favourite stick is an Easton Instinct, but honestly when I'm on the ice the only difference I can really tell is that two of the sticks were taped by previous owners who obviously preferred different methods than I do but I've not cared enough to retape them. However, as you can probably imagine, after 20 years my skills aren't quite what they were in high school. I'm not sure I could say the same if I were still playing at the level I did then.
Hey! I just started playing on Jan. 6th of 2016. I bought the cheapest equipment money could buy at a resale shop in my city. I've had to replace almost every piece of my kit, as I had no idea what I was initially buying. The first thing I did was upgrade sticks. I went from a $20 used wooden stick, to a $50 warrior stick. That is literally the most expensive piece of equipment in my arsenal. Now, I completely agree with what you're saying. Unless you're playing in a very high level league, a $300 stick isn't going to make any difference. In the beer leagues, cardiovascular ability trumps skill in almost every area. I reccomend that guys go for the cheap sticks, and spend that saved money on drop in fees and ice time. Better equipment does not make you a better player, and most of the time, you don't need to spend insane amounts of money of equipment, especially sticks, to score goals.
From a goalies perspective on sticks, me and my buddy went out and played some hockey with a few sticks. First half, I used a wooden Bauer. Every shot that hit my paddle died on the spot, gave me great control. Switched to a warrior swagger LT, which is almost half the weight. Rebounds popped up all over the place, and I couldn't handle the puck as well. Don't judge a stick by its price tag.
I don't find that the price or how good the stick is matters. I find what matters is the flex and lie and length because that's what actually effects my shot
Great Review & enjoyed the game action footage. I've been weighing sticks for 6 years and to me the target weight is a stick between 475g and 450g when playing forward. When on D I prefer 500g thru 475g. I dont want the lightest and I dont want the heaviest AND I want the best value...so getting the midrange on closeout is the best deal going. Once you go top shelf...your sorta stuck on the premium level of sticks, BUT Warrior makes a great stick IMO...maybe the best!
I have 3 Crosby Reebok Ribcore Pro Stock sticks. ($200 a piece) They were last year stock and a local shop bought 20 of them. Different curvatures also. I opted for the slight heel curve. 4 lie and 115 lbs flex. And I love every part of it. Though I did have to put a 1.5" extension in them.
I just bought a CCM tacks 40 McDavid 65 flex with a p28 curve for 85 bucks it feels really lite and comfortable and I can get of quality shots and still have the ability to have those quick hands
I've got a Nexus 4000 and got it on clearance for $60. I thought I would use it as a backup but, it turned into my primary. It has good feel and had been pretty durable. Especially in beer league where some of the guys hack and slash a little more than they should.
Personally I don't look at a price tag when I get a stick, I just look for the one that feels great in my hands. The shocking thing I found is that some cheap sticks can feel just as great. I picked up a Bauer supreme 160 and it's my favorite yet it was only 20$. As ya always say in your videos, it's a preference. Also I love your videos so keep up the good work :)
I just recently switch from wood sticks to composite. Ive personally havent tried any high-end but I will say that for mid-range and store "exclusive" I havent noticed any difference. I think blade style, curve and kick point would probably be more noticeable. For example I cant adjust to low kick... just cant. Mid-kick feels more natural to me.
I shoot Sherwood sticks. Right now I have an EK15 and an EK9 as a backup. The EK15 is very light compared to the EK9 and has noticeably more zip on the shot and better puck feel. The EK9 weights about the same as my old 5030CC stick. I usually buy my sticks near the end of the season and they last me usually a full ice season (we don't have year round ice). I have never spent more than 120USD on a stick and maybe break or wear out one in a year.
I paid $99 for my qre4 and its amazing. Loving it so much.. I mean I'm a big dude but I can easily puck handle with it 1 handed. Feels light as a feather, and after 4 games there is not a single defect or chip in the stick yet. This stick is a serious game changer for me.
For the most part you can make any stick work , but nothing compares to that pop you get from the high end sticks. It makes shooting feel so much more effortless and youre more likely to get a good shot off in a tense situation. The lower end sticks i feel dont flex as well so youre more likely to whiff on the shot in those situations, especially with one-timers. I personally own a Covert QR1 and it really gives me the confidence to know im going get off a good shot 90% of the time, the pop it has is insane. With barely any effort you can get a rocket of a shot off and thats what I love most. You dont NEED that high end performance but DAMN does it feel good when you know its there when you need it.
+Rygar91 to add to my comment, if you want a high end stick but its not in your budget. Check sites like Craiglist and Kijiji. I bought a CCM UltraTacks from Kijiji last year for $120 as opposed to the $300 price and this was just a few months after its release.
Great POV camera work. I am currently injured and have not been on the ice so the video made me feel like I was in the game! Nice playing. This is a great video. I've had this discussion many times. I've always felt that naturally gifted players can make any stick work for them. I usually go for the low-to-mid-end sticks because if I spent a lot of money on a stick and it broke I'd be really frustrated. I like the idea of the slash test. Perhaps you can start a new rating for sticks: ASTB - Average Slashes Till Break! Another idea that came to mind is the comparison between old-school wood (like the Sherwood 5030) and composite. You may have already done that so I will have a look at your other videos. Also, an idea for a series I'd be intrigued about is difference in hockey style by region. I've lived all over the US and have noticed a big difference in hockey styles depending on the region. It might be something cool to look into, and it would give you the opportunity to travel around and play. Thanks for the awesome channel.
Thanks Jeremy for validating what I kind of always figured for most of us beer league players. I will say though that the one thing I've found when comparing a modestly priced stick to a different brand, lower priced one is that they may have the same flex rating but can feel completely different. In comparing my Bauer to a Gear that had the same flex ratings, the Gear was whippier. My son, who was playing PeeWee at the time, broke his Gear on a slap shot while he's never had a problem with Bauer or CCM.
in my opinion, I think the biggest issues when going from a lower end stick to a higher one is the longevity of the stick itself, I've noticed that since the lower end sticks are essentially 2 pieces, the heel of the blades tend to start chipping away a lot faster. also the toes wear quickly as well... I usually run a mid-priced stick (between $150-$200) and I get the best of both worlds when it comes to the pros of the sticks. but like you said, it's really a preference and skill set that should determine what kind of stick you would for. getting a $300 stick doesn't make you a better hockey player
Hey Jeremy, have you ever tried messing with pro stock sticks? I found a Phil Kessel pro stock back in November for 110 USD. It is the price of the cheaper model but the performance of a 300 with better durability. I know it is riskier because most carriers don't have a warranty and the stick behind the decal is made to that player's specifications, but at the same time it's a cheaper alternative for a really good stick. just my two cents.
I am in my late 60's and have played with every kind of stick except the aluminum shaft or the current expensive sticks. Mid range $75 stick intermediate sticks with 65 flex works perfect for me now, playing 3 times a week. The only problem with sticks is that you get used to playing with one and when you need to replace it the production is over. You have to find a new stick.
I'm a college hockey player, 5'5 and I use intermediate sticks to fit my height and so that I can get good flex on the stick. I paid 55 dollars for the Bauer x700 and I've noticed its heavier than what I'm used to with the 1x. Still a solid stick, have played a whole season and its still in good shape.
I'm the same height and was wondering do you keep it at the stock length? I'm a beginner and I've been experimenting with flex and length. I found stock 57" intermediate length to feel a bit too long so I cut my 55 flex to 54". This makes it feel much stiffer, maybe like a stock 65-70 flex, and I don't think I'm flexing it properly.
I'd be curious to see you compare an All Black Hockey Stick with some of the name brands' top line sticks. I switched from the bargain bin $60-$80 sticks to an All Black about a year and a half ago, and that comparison was night and day, but I wonder how they stack up against the $300 ones.
I agree with what you found - I've used Bauer Nexus 4000 ($110), 6000 ($160) and 8000 ($250), all 87 flex PM9 (Stamkos) curves and there's minimal real world difference in them. However, before them I used Bauer Vapor X2.0 (around $50), again 87 flex, PM9 curve, and they were terrible - the blade would twist when you loaded it up, meaning you couldn't get much power on shots at all.
Mx3 (in my opinion) I think is a nice beef situation stick too. It's pretty all round. It's a high-end stick and pretty heavy compared to the other high-ends.
I use both. I use low kick, lower flex for playing fwd. Better puck feel, better/easier reception of passes and quicker shot release, more accuracy. I use variable/mid kick, higher flex for playing D which is my normal position. A little less finesse/feel but a lot more slap shot power. The difference in slap shot power is VERY noticeable.
I use CCM sticks for the most part, but I personally do like the feel of a heavier stick because like you said it feels more durable in my hands and it I feel better battling for pucks on the boards. I've got the Ribcore 44K 95 flex and it is probably one of the best sticks ive ever had and it was only about $79 at total hockey when i bought it.
+Andrew Miron I also use different sticks depending on who I'm playing. A super chippy team, I'm using my $50 Tacks 3052. Against a team where I'll see more open ice, I'll use the $150 6052.
Thanks for doing this in a balanced and realistic way. It is hard I think for people to admit that for the basic amateur, there is no difference in owning most expensive gear. Just like golf equipment. If you aren't a high end golfer, you will never get the benefits. Fast swing speed and rehearsed power get the benefits of high end sticks.
I've really lucked out buying sticks as of late. Other than breaking two APXs, and my Easton V9E, I purchased a CCM RBZ Superfast Pro Stock stick for $150 and it seems very solid. Loved my V9E and Bauers but the blades always crack at some point during a 50 game season. Hopefully my RBZ lasts
I've always said the low end sticks were high end sticks in the past. I think you'll really only feel the difference when you're out doing a stick and puck thing and probably only notice the weight difference when you're playing in a game. I've always tried to buy the mid-priced sticks because you sort of get some of the nicer materials from the high end sticks (like in the blade). You sacrifice a bit of weight by getting a heavier stick but at least you're not paying $300.
Do you have a video for new hockey players and zone coverage? I just started playing and I play right wing. When we are on defense I'm not sure where to be same thing with offense and zone changes. I am kinda lost because I am very new and not getting much help from my coaches
thanks for the video! The talk on my team is always about sticks, and what's good and what's bad. This is a very helpful video, and maybe I can show this to some of my teamates!
Hey Jeremy, should I use my On Ice Stick also Off Ice (In normal Shoes)? Or better I buy the same Stick and cut him a bit more to reach the Same Base of Length?
The stick i used was the bauer supreme one.5 that was about $99-$110 and it was more on the lighter end than heavy I found it has a really good balance between light and heavy compared to some other sticks that were about $200 i was finding
I'M sure you've touched on this topic somewhere before but I couldn't find it..When you do dry land stick handling practice do use an "adjusted" stick? I have heard some debate back and forth on using a stick that has been cut to size without skates on for off ice... what are your thoughts? Thank you and keep up the great videos!!
I would like to see another comparison with you just stickhandling and target shooting to see the difference but this makes sense that in a game, it doesn't matter as much as people would think.
I am just planning on playing (very casual) pickup hockey about once a week with buddies and am looking at an STX Stallion HPR. I found the high end model on sideline swap for $85. Will it last me a few years of casual play?
Hey Jeremy, quick question about your grips you got on those sticks; Where did you end up ordering them, and can you reuse them?? (As in can use on one stick, and then if it breaks or something, move it to another one) Thanks! :)
I've always played with the $30 Montreal M9 sticks because I never saw any noticeable performance differences besides weight. Now the older wood sticks I find are getting harder and harder to find as everything is composite.
I have the "CCM RIBCOR 30K" which I got for just over $100 out exactly $100, I also have the "Warrior Covert QR1" which I won and is an expensive stick. I have the same flex and curve on both sticks (CCM-Crosby, Warrior-Henrique). The Ribcor is only slightly heavier than the Covert. I was only able to use the covert in one game since my season was ending but it felt just as good as the rib. During my first practice with the Covert I felt like I was shooting better but after a couple of uses it felt just as good as the ribcor. Ultimately I think it comes down to (like you said) how you play.
I typically play with pretty budget stuff unless my dad finds something good at the swap meet lol. Last time he was up visiting family in Canada he picked me up a pair of Bauer sticks. The Supreme One.5 and the Supreme 160 both were around the $50usd mark give or take (the 160 being exactly $60 now). I was playing with both of them just switching off once the tape was looking pretty ratty on the other, and not noticing too much of a difference either. Eventually I just started favoring the 160 over the One.5 for no apparent reason. It snapped recently when I went to poke the puck as the guy was taking a slap shot, so I had to pick up the One.5 for the second half of the game. Holy hell did my game go downhill afterwards. Everything just felt off. It felt heavier and way slicker, since it doesn't have the same grippy surface that the 160 does, and so my stick handling was sloppy. I did still score with a slap shot though. Despite that goal I couldn't focus on anything else other than how different the stick felt and I had to replace it before my next game. I'm assuming it was mostly due to the lack of grip rather than weight or different curvature on the blade that made it feel so much different, so that's probably the main thing to look for. Any major feature changes like the surface texture of the shaft. It could also be I'm finally figuring out preferences now too. I've gone from a $200 Easton Synergy, converted it to a 2 piece after the chipped blade finally broke, to a 2 piece Mission Z-2, and to a $60 one piece Hespler with no problems before. So I'm guessing it's one of those things you eventually find something you like about one that you just prefer over all else and you'll stick with it.
I always like to try and find sticks online that are top of the line for as cheap as possible for instance I got both a super tacks and a 2017 1n for 200 bucks total
Weight won’t matter too much as long as you have the right curve. Curve is probably the most noticeable thing; I borrowed my buddy’s stick and that was the only time I hated a stick, it had a really harsh curve on it.
Srsly if you play beer league, especially the low level stuff like D, heed this advice: get the low $ stuff. Especially if you can skate better than most out there. why? Cuz old men and benders are gonna resort to hacking you and anything you're touching. so your stick won't last as long as you think it will. as of this post, the new hit thing is still st like bauer 1x, get a 600x or 800x if you're really eager. save yourself a lot of $. Can't wait til 1x gets marked down like crazy cuz I don't need a stick to be that much lighter and flimsy.
I used to buy cheap sticks but my stick I use now is a Easton Stealth CX and I'm loving it I find that the more expensive sticks have longer warrantees
Well if you're not too picky on having the last stick on the market, you can wait a bit and buy those high end sticks half price. I got my superfast last year for 140$ instead of the 290$ they were asking for it. Same thing for this year. A couple weeks ago I got CCM ribcor 40K for 150$ instead of 290$. Personnally I think it's a great way to be able to play with a high performance stick even if you are on a budget.
I've never had a top of the line stick,more mid-lower end and I've always wanted a top of the line stick but i feel they cost a lot for what you get this video really helped me make up my mind for future reference. Thanks love the vids keep it up
I know this is so long ago but only ppl who have a chance of going pro or are already pro should be using sticks that cost $300-$400. That much to play in beer league makes no sense, would hate to break a stick that much
My local hockey store always has pro stock sticks for 120-160 and I've noticed a big difference in shooting passing and stick handling since switching over from low end compo sticks. But everyone's different.
Also, Jeremy. I know you probably didn't show the whole games, but how much you shoot so much? I understand wanting to score, but I noticed a few guys open for a SOG
+SGDragonSlayer Most of the shots I got I was being heavily checked, so I usually go for a shot on net if I can get it unless there is a clear and obvious pass option. Sometimes I'll shoot to generate a rebound, I'm putting it on the net so the goalie has to stop it in hopes a team mate picks up a juicy rebound. The one I actually did score on, I was trying to pass, haha.
Opinion on the CCM Tacks 6052? Just picked one up last week for $150 USD, good quick stickhandling with a nice mid kickpoint that's still sturdy enough to be dangerous from the blue line.
Hey Jeremy I just bought my first stick that was 90$ USD but on sale for 70$. It was 50 flex and that's about half my weight but I can't flex it well when I shoot do you think I could get away with a 40 flex
I'm really not sure what you mean when you claim there is better energy transfer when the stick is one-piece. I don't think that's true. At least, I don't see any reason that it should be. Perhaps I'm missing something. Could you clarify?
As an exaggerated example. A chain is many pieces linked together (albeit very loosely) so putting energy into the top piece does not transfer well to the very bottom piece. The low end sticks are two pieces bonded together, so there is less energy transfer compared to true once piece sticks.
The Hockey Movement by How To Hockey Hmmm. When you use a two piece hockey stick, can you actually feel the two pieces move independently? (That's a genuine question. I don't know anything about hockey sticks. I haven't held one since I was a kid. I'm just trying to learn.) I'm not sure that's the right analogy. The chain isn't stiff, and has an additional six-degrees of freedom associated with each link, so energy distributes among those degrees, which is why the motion of the bottom link will _seem_ damped. (I say it will seem to be damped, but the term damped implies energy loss, and this would happen in a frictionless chain.) It would be more accurate to say that the energy is diluted, but the correct term is distributed. (Oh, and I'm a physicist, by the way, which is why I'm particularly curious about these details. Thanks for taking the time to explain things to me.)
Tim Teatro I believe that he means two-piece sticks are just less efficient because there is not a uniform thread weave of carbon throughout the stick, so at the junction of the two parts in a two piece stick, the point at which the two pieces meet does not "flex" in the same manner as the rest of the stick, due to the extra material/process used to fuse the two sections. Causing the shot to lose some power.
Best way is to buy high-end sticks from last year. Almost same technology, but huge price drop due to they are "old".
I got a Vapor APX 2 for $60
+Berklette that's my move as well. Great prices for sticks from past 1-3 year old models
Yep, picked up an MX3 for only 160$
The 1x is from last year but I still had to pay $230
+Christopher Trush because they hadn't made a new Bauer vapor yet, I think a new one is releasing this September
$99 is cheap? Bro I rock the $32 wooden Paul Coffey
You're the true MVP
+Blur Icy amen.
+Alexander Milentis I wish I could still find those sicks.....
$32? That's expensive as hell I rock the $13 Sherwood
+Todd Thompson Canadian Tire!
Jeremy actually looks a sick hockey player i seen a few nice dangles in that game
You should do a test with the laser gun and see if with the top end stick you can consistently load a harder and faster shot, or if the difference with a low end stick isn´t that noticable.
Key Lenny ultimately if you’re a good player you won’t notice a difference
Pssh...the $100 ones are the expensive ones for me!
Rad Zach Review same
IDK if this matter but the sticks he used in the video, QR4 and the HD4, are on clearance and can be found for around $60. If you look hard enough you can find $100 sticks for $50-60
Bruh I got 2 $400 steaks like calm down it’s not a lot
Xenos. Adam Olson how did they taste?
I’m stupid
Can u do a series where u record ur beer league games like what Nasher does? #please
+HockeyLifestyle23 That would be SICK video....if I had hands like Nasher :)
I might do it anyways
+The Hockey Movement by How To Hockey do it!!!! 😀
+Durtwizard 😁 #excited
+HockeyLifestyle23 totally! This channel is a safe haven for real deal hockey lovers. Positive all around.
+The Hockey Movement by How To Hockey What kind of grip do you use on the sticks? never seen before but they look nice.
Edit: nevermind, a google search helped me find it
I actually like the feel of my Bauer X (paid around $87 for it). It’s a nice weight not too heavy not too light. only thing I really don’t like about it is that weird sticky “grip” texture.
That in game footage was 10/10
I am not a great player and only play drop in hockey so an expensive stick doesn't make sense for me. I have a $45 stick.
Marie K same I have a 21.99$ stick
marc, it's a poor craftsman who blames his tools!
Marie K I have a 15 dollar wooden stick
Stone Kold111 i have a 1$ plastic stick
I have a 100$
Stick
I have a bauer vapor 1x, and my friend has an x700. In practice, we swich sometimes, and I definetly feel the difference between the two. Then again, the 1x is one of the lightest sticks on the market. Sweet video
i got a season out of a 10 dollar stick and sniped with it
:-)
yee those 10 dollar sticks!
I had a 30$ mylec mk3 stick for a total of 1 hour. On my first slapshot it snapped.
Hey Jeremy, just wanted to say how much i appreciate your channel and very informative content. It's really helped me develop as a player. So much so, that I made my highschool team and, in the first game, got 2 goals in 30 seconds and a hattie in the second game. The coaches are really pleased with my hard work and, let me tell ya, it pays off. Thanks again for your great videos! They're second to none!
Rad comment !
Will you be doing an Easton or CCM line comparison between their high end and low end sticks?
I think he's sponsored by warrior
+Hockey Posts Only Maybe, if I were to do a comparison I would maybe use a Bauer or CCM seeing as they are a little more popular and common.
+SakicSnipes19 No he only uses good brands
You should do this for all manufacturers like Bauer ccm Easton etc.
Nick Harrison yep. Makes a difference for sure. Warrior makes good lower end sticks.
Personal opinion from a bad hockey player, with how good all hockey equipment is today there are few pieces of equipment that you should spend a lot of money on; and in my opinion a good pair of skates and a decent helmet are probably the highest priorities. With something like a stick I would expect that the average player would probably not notice much of a difference while actually playing.
HappySqrl I agree with u like I have crap shin pads but they r extremely light so I like them but TBH I like the top of the line sticks more
I'd make sure to buy a good jock/cup as well! Have taken many a bounced shot or stick in the family jewels!
HappySqrl Stick, gloves and skates should you spend a lot of money on.
HappySqrl the equipement dont make the player
HappySqrl half the rec players use these sticks and can't handle basic passes.if you don't have decent hands don't buy a composite stick pucks will just bounce of your blade
Right on, thanks for making this video!
First, beauty goalie with the Kidd/Sparks pads.
Second, I agree that a $99 stick is going to work great for MOST people. Unless you're a guy who played some really high level hockey in juniors or college or something, you're probably not skilled enough to notice the difference except for the weight. Even then, 100g shouldn't have a noticeable affect on your game unless you're a pretty elite player.
I completely agree that the $99 sticks are going to be more durable, and for that reason alone I think it's really the sweet spot for beer league. It's not like it was 10 years ago where cheap sticks were garbage. You really can't go wrong with anything at that price point, for the most part.
Would be curious to see a super slow mo review of them flexing while shooting and some more info on puck feel while stickhandling. A blind test would be great.
I went from a $25 stick to a $60 stick and thought I was getting a more expensive one... now You’re telling me $99 is cheap?! Come on man!
I just started getting back into hockey for the first time since high school, I'm in the process of losing a lot of weight too. Sticks are incredibly lighter than when I played, and it's like going from a tree branch to a Sci fi hockey twig. I cannot wait to get my CCM clearance stick to practice shooting. I had a wicked snapshot on my 100+ flex stick but I'll have to work on my mechanics. I also bought dry boards to work on my stick handling. Cannot wait to keep working on all these skills and skating especially. Thanks Coach Jeremy for all the inspiration and the awesome videos! I definitely recommend for anyone not sure, get a good $100 stick to take a TON of shots with and stick handle with and do not be afraid of putting as much power into your shot as you can.
I just buy top of the line sticks from a year or two back. Pay $100 and it's high end. I paid $55 for a TotalOne NXG that I use now
Exactly what I do. I look at my playing style as a bit of a playmaker so I generally purchase a light stick from the year before. Just picked up a CCM RBZ SuperFast from last year for $150.
Hell I use a wooden stick that has a composite blade. I like is just fine. It's the standard Fischer brand hockey stick available at the Sportmaster store in Russia. If you love the game enough the stick doesn't matter too much. Go Habs go!
Justin Davis no just no
i bought a bauer surpreme one 55 like 9 or 10 years ago when playing in a hobby league. dont know its flex but its got the "naslund" print. i still have that stick...using it for shooting on a pad. still works great. and it was about 40€...or maybe 60-70$. so in my opinion...its not about the price (same about skates), its more about how comfortable you feel with it and if you cant improve your style of playing with that equipment.
Man I just love the die-nasty
Can you do a video working on pivoting?
I recently came back to hockey after 20 years of not playing (mostly because it's not a terribly popular sport in my area so I had trouble finding people to play with for quite a long time). Due to a tight budget around the time I was re-aquiring equipment to play, all four of my sticks are used (I got one off Ebay then stumbled across a too-good-to-ignore deal in a secondhand shop, 3 sticks - two of them models that were originally in the $150 range - for $2). My favourite stick is an Easton Instinct, but honestly when I'm on the ice the only difference I can really tell is that two of the sticks were taped by previous owners who obviously preferred different methods than I do but I've not cared enough to retape them. However, as you can probably imagine, after 20 years my skills aren't quite what they were in high school. I'm not sure I could say the same if I were still playing at the level I did then.
Nice game footage! Really enjoyed that. Did you record it with the Uhwk or the GoPro?
+FGFsMo Thanks, I recorded it with the UHWK
The Hockey Movement by How To Hockey Wow it looked really good. I was wondering about the quality. Very cool.
Hey! I just started playing on Jan. 6th of 2016. I bought the cheapest equipment money could buy at a resale shop in my city. I've had to replace almost every piece of my kit, as I had no idea what I was initially buying. The first thing I did was upgrade sticks. I went from a $20 used wooden stick, to a $50 warrior stick. That is literally the most expensive piece of equipment in my arsenal.
Now, I completely agree with what you're saying. Unless you're playing in a very high level league, a $300 stick isn't going to make any difference. In the beer leagues, cardiovascular ability trumps skill in almost every area. I reccomend that guys go for the cheap sticks, and spend that saved money on drop in fees and ice time.
Better equipment does not make you a better player, and most of the time, you don't need to spend insane amounts of money of equipment, especially sticks, to score goals.
From a goalies perspective on sticks, me and my buddy went out and played some hockey with a few sticks. First half, I used a wooden Bauer. Every shot that hit my paddle died on the spot, gave me great control. Switched to a warrior swagger LT, which is almost half the weight. Rebounds popped up all over the place, and I couldn't handle the puck as well. Don't judge a stick by its price tag.
I don't find that the price or how good the stick is matters. I find what matters is the flex and lie and length because that's what actually effects my shot
Sticks are gimmicks. Back in my day we just used dinosaur bones 🦴
Great Review & enjoyed the game action footage. I've been weighing sticks for 6 years and to me the target weight is a stick between 475g and 450g when playing forward. When on D I prefer 500g thru 475g. I dont want the lightest and I dont want the heaviest AND I want the best value...so getting the midrange on closeout is the best deal going. Once you go top shelf...your sorta stuck on the premium level of sticks, BUT Warrior makes a great stick IMO...maybe the best!
FYI- one thing to note...Stick weights which had been dropping over the years, appear to be reversing and gaining weight back this year
I have 3 Crosby Reebok Ribcore Pro Stock sticks. ($200 a piece) They were last year stock and a local shop bought 20 of them. Different curvatures also. I opted for the slight heel curve. 4 lie and 115 lbs flex. And I love every part of it. Though I did have to put a 1.5" extension in them.
I just bought a CCM tacks 40 McDavid 65 flex with a p28 curve for 85 bucks it feels really lite and comfortable and I can get of quality shots and still have the ability to have those quick hands
I've got a Nexus 4000 and got it on clearance for $60. I thought I would use it as a backup but, it turned into my primary. It has good feel and had been pretty durable. Especially in beer league where some of the guys hack and slash a little more than they should.
That's awesome, I got a Vapor APX 2 for $60
Personally I don't look at a price tag when I get a stick, I just look for the one that feels great in my hands. The shocking thing I found is that some cheap sticks can feel just as great. I picked up a Bauer supreme 160 and it's my favorite yet it was only 20$. As ya always say in your videos, it's a preference. Also I love your videos so keep up the good work :)
what kind of white board do you have behind you with the wood i like it
I just recently switch from wood sticks to composite. Ive personally havent tried any high-end but I will say that for mid-range and store "exclusive" I havent noticed any difference. I think blade style, curve and kick point would probably be more noticeable. For example I cant adjust to low kick... just cant. Mid-kick feels more natural to me.
I shoot Sherwood sticks. Right now I have an EK15 and an EK9 as a backup. The EK15 is very light compared to the EK9 and has noticeably more zip on the shot and better puck feel. The EK9 weights about the same as my old 5030CC stick. I usually buy my sticks near the end of the season and they last me usually a full ice season (we don't have year round ice). I have never spent more than 120USD on a stick and maybe break or wear out one in a year.
I paid $99 for my qre4 and its amazing. Loving it so much.. I mean I'm a big dude but I can easily puck handle with it 1 handed. Feels light as a feather, and after 4 games there is not a single defect or chip in the stick yet. This stick is a serious game changer for me.
For the most part you can make any stick work , but nothing compares to that pop you get from the high end sticks. It makes shooting feel so much more effortless and youre more likely to get a good shot off in a tense situation. The lower end sticks i feel dont flex as well so youre more likely to whiff on the shot in those situations, especially with one-timers. I personally own a Covert QR1 and it really gives me the confidence to know im going get off a good shot 90% of the time, the pop it has is insane. With barely any effort you can get a rocket of a shot off and thats what I love most. You dont NEED that high end performance but DAMN does it feel good when you know its there when you need it.
+Rygar91 to add to my comment, if you want a high end stick but its not in your budget. Check sites like Craiglist and Kijiji. I bought a CCM UltraTacks from Kijiji last year for $120 as opposed to the $300 price and this was just a few months after its release.
Great POV camera work. I am currently injured and have not been on the ice so the video made me feel like I was in the game! Nice playing. This is a great video. I've had this discussion many times. I've always felt that naturally gifted players can make any stick work for them. I usually go for the low-to-mid-end sticks because if I spent a lot of money on a stick and it broke I'd be really frustrated. I like the idea of the slash test. Perhaps you can start a new rating for sticks: ASTB - Average Slashes Till Break! Another idea that came to mind is the comparison between old-school wood (like the Sherwood 5030) and composite. You may have already done that so I will have a look at your other videos. Also, an idea for a series I'd be intrigued about is difference in hockey style by region. I've lived all over the US and have noticed a big difference in hockey styles depending on the region. It might be something cool to look into, and it would give you the opportunity to travel around and play. Thanks for the awesome channel.
Best stick I ever used was a TPS Tri-Core. It was a composite shaft wrapped in wood. I've never found another stick I liked as much as that one.
Thanks Jeremy for validating what I kind of always figured for most of us beer league players. I will say though that the one thing I've found when comparing a modestly priced stick to a different brand, lower priced one is that they may have the same flex rating but can feel completely different. In comparing my Bauer to a Gear that had the same flex ratings, the Gear was whippier. My son, who was playing PeeWee at the time, broke his Gear on a slap shot while he's never had a problem with Bauer or CCM.
in my opinion, I think the biggest issues when going from a lower end stick to a higher one is the longevity of the stick itself, I've noticed that since the lower end sticks are essentially 2 pieces, the heel of the blades tend to start chipping away a lot faster. also the toes wear quickly as well... I usually run a mid-priced stick (between $150-$200) and I get the best of both worlds when it comes to the pros of the sticks. but like you said, it's really a preference and skill set that should determine what kind of stick you would for. getting a $300 stick doesn't make you a better hockey player
Have you ever done a pro stock vs retail model of the same stick?
Hey Jeremy, have you ever tried messing with pro stock sticks? I found a Phil Kessel pro stock back in November for 110 USD. It is the price of the cheaper model but the performance of a 300 with better durability. I know it is riskier because most carriers don't have a warranty and the stick behind the decal is made to that player's specifications, but at the same time it's a cheaper alternative for a really good stick. just my two cents.
I am in my late 60's and have played with every kind of stick except the aluminum shaft or the current expensive sticks. Mid range $75 stick intermediate sticks with 65 flex works perfect for me now, playing 3 times a week. The only problem with sticks is that you get used to playing with one and when you need to replace it the production is over. You have to find a new stick.
This was done by me, hockeyguy080 while on my wife's facebook sign in.
I'm a college hockey player, 5'5 and I use intermediate sticks to fit my height and so that I can get good flex on the stick. I paid 55 dollars for the Bauer x700 and I've noticed its heavier than what I'm used to with the 1x. Still a solid stick, have played a whole season and its still in good shape.
I'm the same height and was wondering do you keep it at the stock length?
I'm a beginner and I've been experimenting with flex and length. I found stock 57" intermediate length to feel a bit too long so I cut my 55 flex to 54". This makes it feel much stiffer, maybe like a stock 65-70 flex, and I don't think I'm flexing it properly.
I'd be curious to see you compare an All Black Hockey Stick with some of the name brands' top line sticks. I switched from the bargain bin $60-$80 sticks to an All Black about a year and a half ago, and that comparison was night and day, but I wonder how they stack up against the $300 ones.
I agree with what you found - I've used Bauer Nexus 4000 ($110), 6000 ($160) and 8000 ($250), all 87 flex PM9 (Stamkos) curves and there's minimal real world difference in them.
However, before them I used Bauer Vapor X2.0 (around $50), again 87 flex, PM9 curve, and they were terrible - the blade would twist when you loaded it up, meaning you couldn't get much power on shots at all.
Mx3 (in my opinion) I think is a nice beef situation stick too. It's pretty all round. It's a high-end stick and pretty heavy compared to the other high-ends.
do u feel the different flex points with the mid and low kick ?
Yes
+Josh Dalka like how would u tell the difference when u use it
How is someone supposed to explain that you fucking mug
I use both. I use low kick, lower flex for playing fwd. Better puck feel, better/easier reception of passes and quicker shot release, more accuracy. I use variable/mid kick, higher flex for playing D which is my normal position. A little less finesse/feel but a lot more slap shot power. The difference in slap shot power is VERY noticeable.
I use CCM sticks for the most part, but I personally do like the feel of a heavier stick because like you said it feels more durable in my hands and it I feel better battling for pucks on the boards. I've got the Ribcore 44K 95 flex and it is probably one of the best sticks ive ever had and it was only about $79 at total hockey when i bought it.
+Andrew Miron I also use different sticks depending on who I'm playing. A super chippy team, I'm using my $50 Tacks 3052. Against a team where I'll see more open ice, I'll use the $150 6052.
Makes a lot of sense man! Thanks for the advice :)
Thanks for doing this in a balanced and realistic way. It is hard I think for people to admit that for the basic amateur, there is no difference in owning most expensive gear. Just like golf equipment. If you aren't a high end golfer, you will never get the benefits. Fast swing speed and rehearsed power get the benefits of high end sticks.
I've really lucked out buying sticks as of late. Other than breaking two APXs, and my Easton V9E, I purchased a CCM RBZ Superfast Pro Stock stick for $150 and it seems very solid. Loved my V9E and Bauers but the blades always crack at some point during a 50 game season. Hopefully my RBZ lasts
I've always said the low end sticks were high end sticks in the past. I think you'll really only feel the difference when you're out doing a stick and puck thing and probably only notice the weight difference when you're playing in a game. I've always tried to buy the mid-priced sticks because you sort of get some of the nicer materials from the high end sticks (like in the blade). You sacrifice a bit of weight by getting a heavier stick but at least you're not paying $300.
Well fuck I'm new to hockey and I bought a $56 stick and I thought that was expensive 😂😂
haha welcome to my world. I still buy sticks under $100 mostly ccm ribcor and Bauer sticks and Easton synergy. my first was a Bauer nexus at $59.
If you are new to hockey get a woody. It's heavier so new players can build muscles
+Hank Olson thanks will do :)
I did to 😂
Do you have a video for new hockey players and zone coverage? I just started playing and I play right wing. When we are on defense I'm not sure where to be same thing with offense and zone changes. I am kinda lost because I am very new and not getting much help from my coaches
thanks for the video! The talk on my team is always about sticks, and what's good and what's bad. This is a very helpful video, and maybe I can show this to some of my teamates!
Wood or Fibreglass? Also heavier is better for slap shots I'm assuming right?
Hey Jeremy, should I use my On Ice Stick also Off Ice (In normal Shoes)? Or better I buy the same Stick and cut him a bit more to reach the Same Base of Length?
This is a bit late, but I was wondering how you felt about the buttendz Jeremy? I was thinking about getting a couple of them but I'm not sure yet.
The stick i used was the bauer supreme one.5 that was about $99-$110 and it was more on the lighter end than heavy I found it has a really good balance between light and heavy compared to some other sticks that were about $200 i was finding
I'M sure you've touched on this topic somewhere before but I couldn't find it..When you do dry land stick handling practice do use an "adjusted" stick? I have heard some debate back and forth on using a stick that has been cut to size without skates on for off ice... what are your thoughts? Thank you and keep up the great videos!!
Please keep showing us your game footage I really enjoyed it.
I bought last year sherwood rekker ek15 because it was very light stick, had great puck handling and was only around 150e.
Very good review, lots of points to talk about. I think this was one of the most comprehensive looks into stick quality I've seen. Well done.
I would like to see another comparison with you just stickhandling and target shooting to see the difference but this makes sense that in a game, it doesn't matter as much as people would think.
I like how this guy trains And he only plays beer league!!!😂😂
I am just planning on playing (very casual) pickup hockey about once a week with buddies and am looking at an STX Stallion HPR. I found the high end model on sideline swap for $85. Will it last me a few years of casual play?
Hey Jeremy, quick question about your grips you got on those sticks;
Where did you end up ordering them, and can you reuse them?? (As in can use on one stick, and then if it breaks or something, move it to another one)
Thanks! :)
Great info.
Tutorial on shooting in stride or the two touch? I can't seem to get it right...
2:44 is that garret sparks
I've always played with the $30 Montreal M9 sticks because I never saw any noticeable performance differences besides weight. Now the older wood sticks I find are getting harder and harder to find as everything is composite.
I have the "CCM RIBCOR 30K" which I got for just over $100 out exactly $100, I also have the "Warrior Covert QR1" which I won and is an expensive stick. I have the same flex and curve on both sticks (CCM-Crosby, Warrior-Henrique). The Ribcor is only slightly heavier than the Covert. I was only able to use the covert in one game since my season was ending but it felt just as good as the rib. During my first practice with the Covert I felt like I was shooting better but after a couple of uses it felt just as good as the ribcor. Ultimately I think it comes down to (like you said) how you play.
Last season my stick was a Bauer Vapor X80 and it weighed 500 something grams. When I got my MX3 I noticed a huge difference
what where the grips u were using??
I typically play with pretty budget stuff unless my dad finds something good at the swap meet lol. Last time he was up visiting family in Canada he picked me up a pair of Bauer sticks. The Supreme One.5 and the Supreme 160 both were around the $50usd mark give or take (the 160 being exactly $60 now). I was playing with both of them just switching off once the tape was looking pretty ratty on the other, and not noticing too much of a difference either.
Eventually I just started favoring the 160 over the One.5 for no apparent reason. It snapped recently when I went to poke the puck as the guy was taking a slap shot, so I had to pick up the One.5 for the second half of the game. Holy hell did my game go downhill afterwards.
Everything just felt off. It felt heavier and way slicker, since it doesn't have the same grippy surface that the 160 does, and so my stick handling was sloppy. I did still score with a slap shot though. Despite that goal I couldn't focus on anything else other than how different the stick felt and I had to replace it before my next game.
I'm assuming it was mostly due to the lack of grip rather than weight or different curvature on the blade that made it feel so much different, so that's probably the main thing to look for. Any major feature changes like the surface texture of the shaft. It could also be I'm finally figuring out preferences now too. I've gone from a $200 Easton Synergy, converted it to a 2 piece after the chipped blade finally broke, to a 2 piece Mission Z-2, and to a $60 one piece Hespler with no problems before. So I'm guessing it's one of those things you eventually find something you like about one that you just prefer over all else and you'll stick with it.
I always like to try and find sticks online that are top of the line for as cheap as possible for instance I got both a super tacks and a 2017 1n for 200 bucks total
Weight won’t matter too much as long as you have the right curve. Curve is probably the most noticeable thing; I borrowed my buddy’s stick and that was the only time I hated a stick, it had a really harsh curve on it.
I was wondering if you could do a video about how important keeping your head up is
It would be awesome if you could upload some gameplay videos. Loved the vid though.
Srsly if you play beer league, especially the low level stuff like D,
heed this advice:
get the low $ stuff. Especially if you can skate better than most out there.
why?
Cuz old men and benders are gonna resort to hacking you and anything you're touching. so your stick won't last as long as you think it will.
as of this post, the new hit thing is still st like bauer 1x, get a 600x or 800x if you're really eager. save yourself a lot of $. Can't wait til 1x gets marked down like crazy cuz I don't need a stick to be that much lighter and flimsy.
Kevin Crabtree Lol true. On the off-season I play in beer leagues and they hack the shit out of me
When is the buttendz review coming out?
I used to buy cheap sticks but my stick I use now is a Easton Stealth CX and I'm loving it I find that the more expensive sticks have longer warrantees
Hey next time you video your games, it might be a good idea to tilt your go pro up just a tad...
Can u have more game highlights?
Well if you're not too picky on having the last stick on the market, you can wait a bit and buy those high end sticks half price.
I got my superfast last year for 140$ instead of the 290$ they were asking for it. Same thing for this year. A couple weeks ago I got CCM ribcor 40K for 150$ instead of 290$.
Personnally I think it's a great way to be able to play with a high performance stick even if you are on a budget.
yea I definitely agree with you on that.
Yes this.
+msanna4
Since super tacks is gonna be coming out in june, ill wait till the ultra tacks goes on clearance.
Im Not Sure tbh Good idea :-)
plus my birthday is the exact day the super tacks comes out so maybe i can scrap together enough money to buy it
I've never had a top of the line stick,more mid-lower end and I've always wanted a top of the line stick but i feel they cost a lot for what you get this video really helped me make up my mind for future reference. Thanks love the vids keep it up
I know this is so long ago but only ppl who have a chance of going pro or are already pro should be using sticks that cost $300-$400. That much to play in beer league makes no sense, would hate to break a stick that much
I usually buy high end sticks that go on sale because a newer model comes out. I spent $130 on an APX2 which I think was a pretty good steal
I do the same. I got an MX3 for around $140 after they released the 1s
My local hockey store always has pro stock sticks for 120-160 and I've noticed a big difference in shooting passing and stick handling since switching over from low end compo sticks. But everyone's different.
good video man would you be doing more of in game footage would love to see more
Do retail sticks still have carbon fiber?. I bought a 60 dollar stick, and a 80 dollar stick. Bauer n6000 and ccm ribcor 45k.
I've been happy with the covert. Nice snapper for a grinder like me.
They are longer for defense.
Great vid Jeremy!
Also, Jeremy. I know you probably didn't show the whole games, but how much you shoot so much? I understand wanting to score, but I noticed a few guys open for a SOG
+SGDragonSlayer Most of the shots I got I was being heavily checked, so I usually go for a shot on net if I can get it unless there is a clear and obvious pass option. Sometimes I'll shoot to generate a rebound, I'm putting it on the net so the goalie has to stop it in hopes a team mate picks up a juicy rebound. The one I actually did score on, I was trying to pass, haha.
Opinion on the CCM Tacks 6052? Just picked one up last week for $150 USD, good quick stickhandling with a nice mid kickpoint that's still sturdy enough to be dangerous from the blue line.
Would the Dynasty HD5 stick be considered higher end or lower end?
Lower
Hey Jeremy I just bought my first stick that was 90$ USD but on sale for 70$. It was 50 flex and that's about half my weight but I can't flex it well when I shoot do you think I could get away with a 40 flex
I'm really not sure what you mean when you claim there is better energy transfer when the stick is one-piece. I don't think that's true. At least, I don't see any reason that it should be. Perhaps I'm missing something. Could you clarify?
As an exaggerated example. A chain is many pieces linked together (albeit very loosely) so putting energy into the top piece does not transfer well to the very bottom piece. The low end sticks are two pieces bonded together, so there is less energy transfer compared to true once piece sticks.
The Hockey Movement by How To Hockey Hmmm. When you use a two piece hockey stick, can you actually feel the two pieces move independently?
(That's a genuine question. I don't know anything about hockey sticks. I haven't held one since I was a kid. I'm just trying to learn.)
I'm not sure that's the right analogy. The chain isn't stiff, and has an additional six-degrees of freedom associated with each link, so energy distributes among those degrees, which is why the motion of the bottom link will _seem_ damped. (I say it will seem to be damped, but the term damped implies energy loss, and this would happen in a frictionless chain.) It would be more accurate to say that the energy is diluted, but the correct term is distributed.
(Oh, and I'm a physicist, by the way, which is why I'm particularly curious about these details. Thanks for taking the time to explain things to me.)
Tim Teatro Hockey sticks can be created with blades and shafts that connect (two piece)
Aidan Nelson Thanks, but I understand that. My question is a bit more involved.
Tim Teatro I believe that he means two-piece sticks are just less efficient because there is not a uniform thread weave of carbon throughout the stick, so at the junction of the two parts in a two piece stick, the point at which the two pieces meet does not "flex" in the same manner as the rest of the stick, due to the extra material/process used to fuse the two sections. Causing the shot to lose some power.
i got the ccm tracks is that good?