Question , In some of your vids you suggest setting the timing at 17* from stock ... My mane inquiry or thought is (pump off) couldn't you slide the dowel pin location flange up or down to preset the new tdc timing for an engine build ? Just trying to simplify my assembly once the engine is back together ... Your videos are so nice to be able to watch and gain knowledge from , very appreciative of your time taken to make them ...
Seems like years ago I heard that the 913 pump or the 215 hp had a different timing or it adds timing at full rack travel some thing like 5 or 6 degrees . My old 95 has a 160 hp pump seems to work ok for me thank I appreciate your videos
Is there a way to verify tdc pin is correct? My 1st gen was off by 5° from the kdp at ~195000mi when i opened things up at 500k the crank gear was slipped ~5°
Definitely interested in the larger fuel lines, at what horsepower level they are needed and all the specifics of banjo bolts, filter housing mods, filter to use etc.
Would like to see you rebuild the accelerator attachments to the P 7100 for the 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins motor. Including the attachments spring tabs.
@@CUTTERUPROB Absolutely. There really is no good video in rebuilding these linkages. I have gone through hoops to correct mine. Some idiot removed the springs and attachments and placed a door spring between the front and rear linkage. I am searching for parts at this time. The difficulty was the truck would not idle without keeping your foot on the pedal. Would enjoy your input. By the way Cummins or Dodge designed the front accelerator unit with a thin plastic bearing; i have replaced this bearing with a part manufactured by Igus , part no GFI 0506-8 at $2.70 per unit (requires two) and appears to be better material. When disassembled the factory bearing was worn through and there was metal on metal. After repair, the real issue is adjusting the unit and how to? Appears to be many options. Your thoughts. Everyone with this linkage has the same problem and no one is addressing the issue. This will affect Dodge Ram diesel trucks from 94 through mid 98. Keep up the good work; as a comment about your videos please smile more often, after all we are having fun, yes?
I have a quick question I have a 98 12 valve Cummins and I did a tapping cover on it and the pump and the engine was on TDI when I put it back together I tightened down the pump gear 150 foot pounds foot and drove it more than 4miles and my truck was back fine and pulling white and gray smoke in. I timed it again and it ran just fine then it slipped timed again any ideas?
I have a 98 12 valve just bought, going through paperwork on it, I am having issue with acceleration hesitation and popping filters where black and plugged. Looks to be a built motor, where do I go next coolant still full and drove it over 100 miles. Changed oil and no signs of head gasket issue.
Of the engine is in the truck, can you still turn it back without trouble? Good video by the way! All the videos I've see just have ppl talking and pointing but now that I've seen I can understand better how it works.
Question , In some of your vids you suggest setting the timing at 17* from stock ... My mane inquiry or thought is (pump off) couldn't you slide the dowel pin location flange up or down to preset the new tdc timing for an engine build ? Just trying to simplify my assembly once the engine is back together ...
Your videos are so nice to be able to watch and gain knowledge from , very appreciative of your time taken to make them ...
Seems like years ago I heard that the 913 pump or the 215 hp had a different timing or it adds timing at full rack travel some thing like 5 or 6 degrees . My old 95 has a 160 hp pump seems to work ok for me thank I appreciate your videos
Thanks
Is there a way to verify tdc pin is correct?
My 1st gen was off by 5° from the kdp at ~195000mi when i opened things up at 500k the crank gear was slipped ~5°
Definitely interested in the larger fuel lines, at what horsepower level they are needed and all the specifics of banjo bolts, filter housing mods, filter to use etc.
i honeslty not sure at what point it needs to be done. we will find out soon as i have a dyno lol
Yes please do the big fuel video
noted
If engine and pump is at tdc does that mean the pump is at 12 degrees or 0 and needs to be bumped to reach factory specs
What keeps the plastic timing pin from coming out the back ?
Should have a metal retainer. But if that’s missing you can put a small amount of rtv on it on the outside will hold it in
Would like to see you rebuild the accelerator attachments to the P 7100 for the 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins motor. Including the attachments spring tabs.
your talking the throttle linkage ?
@@CUTTERUPROB Absolutely. There really is no good video in rebuilding these linkages. I have gone through hoops to correct mine. Some idiot removed the springs and attachments and placed a door spring between the front and rear linkage. I am searching for parts at this time. The difficulty was the truck would not idle without keeping your foot on the pedal. Would enjoy your input. By the way Cummins or Dodge designed the front accelerator unit with a thin plastic bearing; i have replaced this bearing with a part manufactured by Igus , part no GFI 0506-8 at $2.70 per unit (requires two) and appears to be better material. When disassembled the factory bearing was worn through and there was metal on metal. After repair, the real issue is adjusting the unit and how to? Appears to be many options. Your thoughts. Everyone with this linkage has the same problem and no one is addressing the issue. This will affect Dodge Ram diesel trucks from 94 through mid 98. Keep up the good work; as a comment about your videos please smile more often, after all we are having fun, yes?
You mentioned having the timing tab replaced inside the pump. Do you have a test stand?
i don't but its on the list
I have a quick question I have a 98 12 valve Cummins and I did a tapping cover on it and the pump and the engine was on TDI when I put it back together I tightened down the pump gear 150 foot pounds foot and drove it more than 4miles and my truck was back fine and pulling white and gray smoke in. I timed it again and it ran just fine then it slipped timed again any ideas?
You should try out PDD adjustable timing gear for ppump and front case
i buy different ones. but i use them in all my trucks
@@CUTTERUPROB awesome I like the company they are all good people there
I have a 98 12 valve just bought, going through paperwork on it, I am having issue with acceleration hesitation and popping filters where black and plugged. Looks to be a built motor, where do I go next coolant still full and drove it over 100 miles. Changed oil and no signs of head gasket issue.
You say you like 18ish for a light performance driver. What would you time one at for a street truck that dont tow?
16-18 depends in the mods done to the engine
@@CUTTERUPROB what about for a truck used to tow?
Thanks
Have a link where to get a p pump timing tool? The one to measure plunger lift.
this is one's a put together years ago. but i i am working on doing a batch
I have 12 valves Cummis she start and die u ting is the pump ?
Can be a bunch of stuff
Of the engine is in the truck, can you still turn it back without trouble? Good video by the way! All the videos I've see just have ppl talking and pointing but now that I've seen I can understand better how it works.
yep sure can and Thanks
Do you have a thou lift to timing chart ?
If you google it it should come out
Found one thank you