My dad was a welder for 60 plus years. Master at stick welding. I remember way back in the 1980s the place he worked decided to get the guys certified both plate and pipe. Out of 15 welders the company had at the time. Dad and one other guy passed dad was already certified but took the test for fun. Dad always did his root pass with 7010 rod cover with 7018. Dad did his one shot no grinding between root and cover just wire wheel as he always did. Dad always told me using 7010 for root pas was why he and the only other guy passed. They were the only 2 that used 7010 for root pass the others struggle. For dad it was just another weld no big deal
You could do it that way or tighten up the gap turn the heat up, add more landing, drag the rod and you can feel the walls breaking down and filling back in. If your root is low adjust rod angle so that its pointing back at the puddle, if you are blowing the puddle out turn your heat down, speed up, or point your rod angle away from the puddle.
What is the point of a root weld? Why not just weld it all with the same rod ? I'm new and know nothing but I did just get a stick welder and it seems no one has the answer for me ...I hear for better penetration but can't I get that from just turning the amps up ? Because that "penetration" they keep talking bout would only be at the seem and not the rest of the weld ..or at least that's what it sounds like and obviously ya want the same penetration throughout the weld I would think so why bother using a different rod for a "root weld" hell what even is a root weld other than the beginning of a weld ?? These things aren't being explained they don't seem to add up for me this far
@@trailman20 the point of a root pass or root weld is too add reinforcement to the back of the weld to ensure that I will not fail from any sort of pressure you put on it. In pipe welding the root pass is looked at as crucial because you have water, steam, gas, etc. flowing through the pipe at high pressure so it’s usually the first line of defense against weld defects if that makes sense.
As a professional welder I can honestly say this is a real fine demonstration. Showed the details for the fitup and the electrode. Then actually showed the only side of the root pass that matters👍
Same exact prep I use for pipe, but if you have your heat just right, you only stitch/whip if you have to. Proper heat, and you jam it right in there and drag it the whole way. Burns the walls around the arc and throws a solid root reinforcement in.
If you get everything just right you don't need any rod movement other than traveling up the root. Everything will burn in and the root will come out perfect everytime.
I was taught not to oscillate the rod on your root pass. It creates undercut and and an uneven bead on the inside which also creates turbulence in whatever is running through it and turbulence wears valves and instruments out faster.
Sometimes isolation is necessary because basically what you are trying to do is take a drop of water and get it to fill tiny craters. Sometimes if it sits still on top, it won’t move in for the crater so you have to wiggle the puddle a little bit. That is the only point of isolation.
Aprendan jóvenes si quieren hacer buen dinero, la demanda por este trabajo es increíble y no es nada difícil si lo practican con deseos de aprender y hacer mucho 💰se los dice un soldador de muchos años de experiencia 💰👍
Honestly I do the same thing Sept I do like a sideways weave strike down to start pull back over my strike and try and drag my puddle until or if it keyhole opens then I will drop back under drag over it and go about my day might make my land a little bigger then 3/32 to avoid keyholes
When I was in high school, I never really understood the concept of how SMAW works. I always did so much better on TIG and MIG, but arc welding was just a lot more challenging
Last resort technique for sure. Much easier to hold your rod 90 degrees to the pipe, adjust your heat, and push ther rod uphill with a tight arc length.
6010,7010 are contact rods when running the route .. just push it tight and watch the triangle toe nailing .. silly boy .. arc length creates extra heat ,, a tight root is all deposition not heat hmm keep trying
@@55omega65 Codes normally do not restrict the progression of a vertical weld they only specify that you qualify it. I don't know all codes in existance but ASME 9, CSA Z662, AWS D1.1, D1.6 or CSA W59 have no restriction on vertical down welding. Only that the welding procedure and welder shall be qualified. Your consumables will certianly restrict you. If I were to help one of my clients develop an open root procedure it certianly would be 6010 or RMD/STT downhill for the root and fill everything uphill. Running a downhill root allows for more variation in field fit up which is always an issue no matter how good your intentions are. An uphill fill may take a bit more skill but the fill happens with less passes which reduces repair rate.
Or you could set the machine right, let the rod do the work, and just lift straight up staying in between the lands. Work smart, not hard, whipping is for bad fit ups.
I’ve been doing this wrong the whole time, I always just assumed the rod burned up and you had to force the rod down into the puddle. That’s why my 6010 always got stuck and lost the arc. I was too busy forcing it back into the puddle rather than pulling out and over my puddle
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My dad was a welder for 60 plus years. Master at stick welding. I remember way back in the 1980s the place he worked decided to get the guys certified both plate and pipe. Out of 15 welders the company had at the time. Dad and one other guy passed dad was already certified but took the test for fun. Dad always did his root pass with 7010 rod cover with 7018. Dad did his one shot no grinding between root and cover just wire wheel as he always did. Dad always told me using 7010 for root pas was why he and the only other guy passed. They were the only 2 that used 7010 for root pass the others struggle. For dad it was just another weld no big deal
7010 was always my favorite rod in stick tbh. To be clear though I hate stick welding and rarely do so since I Tig for a living
@Nathan J see I don't mind stick along as it's not overhead. Overhead stick is like trying to juggle a volcano above ur head 😂😂
@@shroomytoodope7375 overhead is the same as flat. Just run it slightly colder and keep the rod jammed into the puddle
7010 and 6010 are the samn thing the only difference is the tensile strength of the rod otherwise the composition of the flux is the samn
@Sam Rowe huh that makes since honestly I didn't know that
You could do it that way or tighten up the gap turn the heat up, add more landing, drag the rod and you can feel the walls breaking down and filling back in. If your root is low adjust rod angle so that its pointing back at the puddle, if you are blowing the puddle out turn your heat down, speed up, or point your rod angle away from the puddle.
You speak as a well experienced professional welder👍
You should create your own channel. I'd watch you over this channel
What is the point of a root weld? Why not just weld it all with the same rod ? I'm new and know nothing but I did just get a stick welder and it seems no one has the answer for me ...I hear for better penetration but can't I get that from just turning the amps up ? Because that "penetration" they keep talking bout would only be at the seem and not the rest of the weld ..or at least that's what it sounds like and obviously ya want the same penetration throughout the weld I would think so why bother using a different rod for a "root weld" hell what even is a root weld other than the beginning of a weld ?? These things aren't being explained they don't seem to add up for me this far
@@trailman20 the point of a root pass or root weld is too add reinforcement to the back of the weld to ensure that I will not fail from any sort of pressure you put on it. In pipe welding the root pass is looked at as crucial because you have water, steam, gas, etc. flowing through the pipe at high pressure so it’s usually the first line of defense against weld defects if that makes sense.
As a professional welder I can honestly say this is a real fine demonstration. Showed the details for the fitup and the electrode. Then actually showed the only side of the root pass that matters👍
Same exact prep I use for pipe, but if you have your heat just right, you only stitch/whip if you have to. Proper heat, and you jam it right in there and drag it the whole way. Burns the walls around the arc and throws a solid root reinforcement in.
6010 is a contact rod while running roots .. pls don’t be silly
@@darrencrosby4520the only thing silly here is your bald head!
Yessir👍
#597
Finally someone that applies a weld in the correct direction
If you get everything just right you don't need any rod movement other than traveling up the root. Everything will burn in and the root will come out perfect everytime.
I was taught not to oscillate the rod on your root pass. It creates undercut and and an uneven bead on the inside which also creates turbulence in whatever is running through it and turbulence wears valves and instruments out faster.
That’s what QA/QC is for. THEY determine if the weld is satisfactory.
Or it depends entirely on what the work specs say bc they could allow it
Sometimes isolation is necessary because basically what you are trying to do is take a drop of water and get it to fill tiny craters. Sometimes if it sits still on top, it won’t move in for the crater so you have to wiggle the puddle a little bit. That is the only point of isolation.
I'm really starting to love these shorts!!!
Posting what stats an what setting to put the machine on is awesome.
Agreed
Aprendan jóvenes si quieren hacer buen dinero, la demanda por este trabajo es increíble y no es nada difícil si lo practican con deseos de aprender y hacer mucho 💰se los dice un soldador de muchos años de experiencia 💰👍
Wow nmann po hahaha😮 Ang galing nmna nag Pag Kaa rootpass
Looking good. I run my amps at about 85, and just step out alittle further. About 3/8s in them wip back
If you strike it on the wall won't that cause inclusions or cracks that ultrasound could see! Plus the whip and pause method is outdated too...
Can you do a video on open root stainless 309 3/32 vertical?
Nice to see the other side of the root pass. Lovely.
“The bevel butcher” would be a great name for you.
Dig! Cool puddle. DIG! COOL THE PUDDLE REPEAT
Honestly I do the same thing Sept I do like a sideways weave strike down to start pull back over my strike and try and drag my puddle until or if it keyhole opens then I will drop back under drag over it and go about my day might make my land a little bigger then 3/32 to avoid keyholes
I knew that heat had to be low
Do NOT strike the arc off the top.
Good job mr welding elektroda
Stick welding is as always be satisfying ....🤩
Let's see a 3g NR-232 .072 on 1" plate
I only tig for a living but these stick videos are still neat to watch even though I've never tried it
Never seen anyone grind restart
All stick is is angle and travel speed tbr
Pretty cool bro
Very good
good key hole technique 🔥
I have a question
I see so many video for pipe welding with a stick
Could we not welding them with mug?
Deberían de hacerla con 70/18 de 1/8 Aver que tal les queda
Good technique
What amperage are you running
Looks like your pushing but your saying dragging what’s good
do you to the side of your walls? or just in the middle of the landing?
The middle. If you favor a side you can run across the risk of not breaking down a wall and leaving an edge.
da poró e inclusão de escorea ... prefiro soldar direto
Please help me
Can you put metal thickness in specs too I’m using 3/8’’
Sounds good
Ini setingan api berapa mas??
When I was in high school, I never really understood the concept of how SMAW works. I always did so much better on TIG and MIG, but arc welding was just a lot more challenging
nce kametal
Polaritas DCP atau DCN
Vertical weld mite I add
easy
I call it climbing the ladder
Just whip it back and forth
Music title pls
Last resort technique for sure. Much easier to hold your rod 90 degrees to the pipe, adjust your heat, and push ther rod uphill with a tight arc length.
Key hole doesn’t have to be that big
Looks like 7018 to me
Run a root first
Perfect job thats the correct way to do.
Disculpen, que significa 3 g
Nice how about a down hill
Turn down the heat then you won’t have to worry about burning through
I love welding 🔥
6010,7010 are contact rods when running the route .. just push it tight and watch the triangle toe nailing .. silly boy .. arc length creates extra heat ,, a tight root is all deposition not heat hmm keep trying
Buena prueba de homólogacion la limpieza I la penetracion lo más inportante
penetração total parabéns sou novo no canal mas já vou me escreve seus vídeos me ajuda bastante
Yes but bro you need to explains the preparation you know what thick of your gape you know
👍
Allow me to publish your videos. I am a pipe welder in an oil company.
💯💯💯
Hello
All I see is a welder getting shit done!!!
Great skill. Go get your b!
4G
Use 7018 looks way better than that turd rod
You’re going the wrong way
only pipeline goes downhill. most codes are all uphill
It’s called vertical up pal
@@jamesps7515 oh wow. That’s amazing.
@@55omega65 Codes normally do not restrict the progression of a vertical weld they only specify that you qualify it. I don't know all codes in existance but ASME 9, CSA Z662, AWS D1.1, D1.6 or CSA W59 have no restriction on vertical down welding. Only that the welding procedure and welder shall be qualified. Your consumables will certianly restrict you.
If I were to help one of my clients develop an open root procedure it certianly would be 6010 or RMD/STT downhill for the root and fill everything uphill. Running a downhill root allows for more variation in field fit up which is always an issue no matter how good your intentions are. An uphill fill may take a bit more skill but the fill happens with less passes which reduces repair rate.
Or you could set the machine right, let the rod do the work, and just lift straight up staying in between the lands.
Work smart, not hard, whipping is for bad fit ups.
Why are you whipping with stick? Trapped Slag. Failed x ray. I'm out
Not good🤦♂️
😂😂😂😂
Yo I want to see the backside that's the most important
I’ve been doing this wrong the whole time, I always just assumed the rod burned up and you had to force the rod down into the puddle. That’s why my 6010 always got stuck and lost the arc. I was too busy forcing it back into the puddle rather than pulling out and over my puddle
Anytime use a grinder it's a phil
Там не обратный валик ,а облицовка
Чой-это не не айс ...шов -то ....пиндосовские аноды че-ли ?