The more of the original tin that you can clean up, straighten up and keep, the better off you’ll be. You can buy just the replacement adjusters fir the rockers. No need to replace the push rods unless there is major wear marks on them. Nothing wrong with keeping it a single port, just replace the exhaust valves for safety, check all valve seats and lap in all valves at a minimum. Head “knobs” are part of the casting. Bless you! Definitely new pistons and cylinders. Good to see you making progress! Can’t wait to see the next part.
Thanks Gary, this is all the info I love to hear! We're on the same page for all the things you've mentioned, so that is good to have some confirmation of thought. Would you replace both the exhaust and intake valves, since the heads have mostly already been taken apart?
@@annies_vw it’s honestly only necessary to replace the exhaust valves since they see the most heat and wear. No one would blame you if you replaced the intake valves but it’s not as critical as the exhaust. Whenever you see a broken valve and it smashed into the piston, 98% of the time it’s a broken exhaust valve.
@@jacquelinechellis4036 Thanks for your comments! you'll have to catch up on my other build videos. I have the long block put back together and went to a case with 8mm studs, as you mentioned. Thanks for watching!
Carefully remove studs soak them at case with penetrating oil. If you dont have case savers would be best to do that. Origional 8mm german studs are the best you can reuse them. If you got 10mm studs go to case savers and 8mm
Single port is better mileage and runs cooler. Dual port is more power and rpm. Stay with singleport and stock 60 hp very reliable. Origional vw heads have very good seats and new valves, guides and springs might be all ya need with valve job
Yea, that could definitely be the case. I have several cooling tin pieces missing down there and haven't done a thorough look yet, but that would make sense.
Subscriber and fellow UA-camr from the UK (came here from insta!)
You are amazing, I'm taking notes! Great content great YTC!
👍🏴 along for the ride...
Thanks! Hopefully the reassembly video will be up in the next month or so!
I’ll be watching and taking notes.
Thanks Greg. I'll also be watching for your build updates, with a notepad and pen in hand! haha
Hi Anie, Good luck and prosperity with the disassembly of the engine. trying to follow you during that journey.Greetings-HCS.🇳🇴
With a little bit of luck I’ll hopefully have a running engine before the winter is over.
The more of the original tin that you can clean up, straighten up and keep, the better off you’ll be.
You can buy just the replacement adjusters fir the rockers.
No need to replace the push rods unless there is major wear marks on them.
Nothing wrong with keeping it a single port, just replace the exhaust valves for safety, check all valve seats and lap in all valves at a minimum.
Head “knobs” are part of the casting.
Bless you!
Definitely new pistons and cylinders.
Good to see you making progress! Can’t wait to see the next part.
Thanks Gary, this is all the info I love to hear! We're on the same page for all the things you've mentioned, so that is good to have some confirmation of thought. Would you replace both the exhaust and intake valves, since the heads have mostly already been taken apart?
@@annies_vw it’s honestly only necessary to replace the exhaust valves since they see the most heat and wear. No one would blame you if you replaced the intake valves but it’s not as critical as the exhaust.
Whenever you see a broken valve and it smashed into the piston, 98% of the time it’s a broken exhaust valve.
fair enough, that makes sense to me
Split case next i liked your procedure. VW aircooled is fun challenge. Case has to pass inspection and be line bored most likely. Have fun thanks
Also if you watch VW Darwin on you tube. He is most knowledgeable vw engine builder ive found. i learned alot watching his tutorial videos
@@jacquelinechellis4036 Thanks for your comments! you'll have to catch up on my other build videos. I have the long block put back together and went to a case with 8mm studs, as you mentioned. Thanks for watching!
Carefully remove studs soak them at case with penetrating oil. If you dont have case savers would be best to do that. Origional 8mm german studs are the best you can reuse them. If you got 10mm studs go to case savers and 8mm
Hi love the video. Were did you get the gland nut (flywheel nut)removal tool you used.
Hi thanks! You must mean the torque multiplier tool. You can find that on most online VW vendor sites. You can use it for the axel nuts too.
Single port is better mileage and runs cooler. Dual port is more power and rpm. Stay with singleport and stock 60 hp very reliable. Origional vw heads have very good seats and new valves, guides and springs might be all ya need with valve job
Something odd I see at about the 12 min mark is the under cylinder sled tin on the 3&4 side looks to be installed backwards
Yea, that could definitely be the case. I have several cooling tin pieces missing down there and haven't done a thorough look yet, but that would make sense.
Yeah I think so too..the exhausts are bad..bye for now.