My recommendation having lots of these is to use a cotton towel laid down. Use a stiff tooth brush to do ALL of the seams FIRST. That's where the water gets in. Then move to doing each panel of the garment. I have this one and 10 or so others--all Filson and been wearing them since about 1990s. Not to mention several bags and vests that all need waxing. It's a chore every year I look forward to. The full liners for this jacket do attach to a button. Was ur friends jacket brand new? Likely it was tailored and buttom removed. My sleeves are tailored so I can't know for sure. I also have the tin cloth field jacket--which accepts the exact same liners--I have all 4 of them that go with these jackets. The tin cloth field jacket definitely has the button at the sleeve to attach the liner sleeve too. I'd think the tin cloth jacket would have the same.
I heat my re-wax pants/jackets in a oven at relatively low heat, 150 degrees. I always turn OFF the oven before garments are placed inside and line the oven with foil. I fold/roll the garments if necessary. It provides a more even “melt” than a heat gun. If folded, I’ll fold/flip the other direction and re-rub the melted oil/wax to smooth it out. Works much better IMO, and takes much less time.
These old jackets are becoming more and more valuable and more rare to obtain. The new ones made overseas are just as good with no compromises BUT that made in Bangladesh tag is such a let down still. These older Filson models are true treasures now
I had a couple tins of wax that hardened. I put a custard cup of water in the microwave and brought it to boil. Cracked the wax lid, the heat radiates through the metal can. Take your custard dish off the heat, first!
Trying to do my packer coat and the tins of wax I have are so stiff you cannot spread them. Do they get old and hard after a few years? How about warming the coat up to about 100°F before starting? I can't even scoop any wax out of the tin and it's a freshly opened tin.
So I just bought my first Filson. I bought the cruiser cut cloth tin jacket. Will I need to wax this as soon as I get it or should it be good? Ive heard that I should wax it like once every year but Im kinda ignorant to how to properly care for the jacket. Any help would be appreciated!
They are waxed when new. You can do it every year to 2-3 years depending on what you do with it. I do mine yearly as it gets beat up ducking hunting and riding single track on the quad. If its just to wear around town you can get away doing it less frequently.
if you keep the fabric waxed nicely it will repel water very well. I have a Filson welders jacket and when it rains it never soaks through the fabric. Only beads up on the surface.
@@cardolianez thanks for your replie Sir ! the double tin pant is very robust for sure but in case of shower if it can’t ensure dry legs its a problem because this pant is heaaaavy ! AMHA the polycoton ripstop material is a far better solution for workwear ( but it let thorns went through ! ).
this is a very cool jacket, i´ve been looking to get this model but cannot find it in the filson website, i´m looking for it as "TIN CLOTH JACKET" but it only comes in "Cinder" color. Any recommendations or suggestions where to find this exact model (new or used)?
Hi friend! Thanks for the video. What do you think this filson wax is made of? I'm sure the Barbour one being just thick petroleum jelly, but this one has a different color. Does it smell like linseed oil or animal fat? Unfortunately it's hard and too expensive to get canned wax in my country, so I'm making my own blend.
@@cameronmcpeak5183 Hello again... I've came about some reading and now I'm convinced that filson wax (barbour too..) is plain veterinarian petroleum jelly. It freezes below -40 celsius and melts above +50, also very sticky and consistent with maintaining density, no cracks or rips when stretched. Sounds about right for the task.
@@user-lc9rk8pj7v After much experimentation, I've come to a similar conclusion. Most of the formulas circulating on the web (especially the beeswax/paraffin wax + solvent + BLO variants) end up with a much stiffer garment than a factory finished one, particularly in the case of Barbour. This is not necessarily a bad thing, and in fact the extra stiffness is useful for going through thick brush and briar. The problem is that the jacket immediately acquires a very battered look,. Not a well used patina, but just a battered look with lots of yellowish creases and rumpling in the flex areas and all over. This is less of a problem with the lighter colored Filsons but darker colored Barbours (olive and dark blue) don't turn out well. The way to get over this seems to be to add either mineral oil (i.e. liquid paraffin) or vaseline to the mix and end up with a softer wax and more pliable garment. I've also found that the more popular formulas involving a solvent (mineral spirits or turpentine) don't hold up well in storage. The solvent just evaporates after a while, as it is meant to on the garment, and you lose whatever benefits it was supposed to provide. I'm inclined to try a simple mix of petroleum jelly + beeswax and and maybe add some boiled lindseed oil, something on the order of 70 + 30 +10. Are you able to point to any reading material suggesting that Filson and Barbour wax are just (or mostly) petroleum jelly, I'd be interested in looking a bit further into that.
Iv done that with some leather jackets for break in. But not for any of my waxed stuff. I always figure i had better focus in these seams while I’m waxing/ heating the jacket and at that point i just heat the whole thing
Bought one 5 years ago. Never worn it. Listed for sale. Stupid ‘damp’ with wax. Could never wear in truck because I didn’t want to wax my seats. Also, never wore because I couldn’t decide which shirt I wanted to destroy with the smell of the jacket. 😑
I had a similar problem and couldn't get a mildew smell out no matter what I tried. I finally broke the rules and washed it in the washing machine a few times, letting it air dry. Rewaxed it after to my liking and problem's solved. A better option is to go on the filson website and go to their repairs page and use the third party website they provide for a good cleaning it's just like 80 bucks. Worth it for a good heirloom jacket though
My recommendation having lots of these is to use a cotton towel laid down. Use a stiff tooth brush to do ALL of the seams FIRST. That's where the water gets in. Then move to doing each panel of the garment.
I have this one and 10 or so others--all Filson and been wearing them since about 1990s. Not to mention several bags and vests that all need waxing. It's a chore every year I look forward to.
The full liners for this jacket do attach to a button. Was ur friends jacket brand new? Likely it was tailored and buttom removed. My sleeves are tailored so I can't know for sure. I also have the tin cloth field jacket--which accepts the exact same liners--I have all 4 of them that go with these jackets. The tin cloth field jacket definitely has the button at the sleeve to attach the liner sleeve too.
I'd think the tin cloth jacket would have the same.
This jacket is the “Field Hunt Cruiser 623N” I believe.
I heat my re-wax pants/jackets in a oven at relatively low heat, 150 degrees. I always turn OFF the oven before garments are placed inside and line the oven with foil. I fold/roll the garments if necessary. It provides a more even “melt” than a heat gun. If folded, I’ll fold/flip the other direction and re-rub the melted oil/wax to smooth it out. Works much better IMO, and takes much less time.
Interesting ill have to try this!
Might as well have the best. At one time, yes. Not necessarily now.
These old jackets are becoming more and more valuable and more rare to obtain. The new ones made overseas are just as good with no compromises BUT that made in Bangladesh tag is such a let down still. These older Filson models are true treasures now
Which jacket is this??? Field Hunt Cruiser also called tin cloth jacket model 623N?
I had a couple tins of wax that hardened. I put a custard cup of water in the microwave and brought it to boil. Cracked the wax lid, the heat radiates through the metal can. Take your custard dish off the heat, first!
Trying to do my packer coat and the tins of wax I have are so stiff you cannot spread them. Do they get old and hard after a few years? How about warming the coat up to about 100°F before starting? I can't even scoop any wax out of the tin and it's a freshly opened tin.
So I just bought my first Filson. I bought the cruiser cut cloth tin jacket. Will I need to wax this as soon as I get it or should it be good? Ive heard that I should wax it like once every year but Im kinda ignorant to how to properly care for the jacket. Any help would be appreciated!
They are waxed when new. You can do it every year to 2-3 years depending on what you do with it. I do mine yearly as it gets beat up ducking hunting and riding single track on the quad. If its just to wear around town you can get away doing it less frequently.
Hello ! From your experience with Filson, its tin cloth material can endure well heavy rain or it let rain pass through ? thanks in advance
if you keep the fabric waxed nicely it will repel water very well. I have a Filson welders jacket and when it rains it never soaks through the fabric. Only beads up on the surface.
It is not recommended for heavy rain. I've owned several -- 12 or so wax finish and do not wear them for that.
@@cardolianez thanks for your replie Sir ! the double tin pant is very robust for sure but in case of shower if it can’t ensure dry legs its a problem because this pant is heaaaavy ! AMHA the polycoton ripstop material is a far better solution for workwear ( but it let thorns went through ! ).
this is a very cool jacket, i´ve been looking to get this model but cannot find it in the filson website, i´m looking for it as "TIN CLOTH JACKET" but it only comes in "Cinder" color. Any recommendations or suggestions where to find this exact model (new or used)?
Tgis model is called the Short lined cruiser. Its on and off when its in stock though
@@cameronmcpeak5183 Check ebay. They usually have a lot. Tin cloth short lined cruiser.
No not short lined cruiser, cruisers don’t have zipper liner. This is Tin cloth jacket. Just picked one up new made inn2013. Chek Poshmark
@@ricardoarciniega6618this jacket is a “Field Hunt Cruiser also called tin cloth jacket model 623N”
Hi friend! Thanks for the video. What do you think this filson wax is made of? I'm sure the Barbour one being just thick petroleum jelly, but this one has a different color. Does it smell like linseed oil or animal fat? Unfortunately it's hard and too expensive to get canned wax in my country, so I'm making my own blend.
I believe Filsons is a paraffin based product with some additional ingredients to make it more malleable.
Also id look into the lone carpenters wax making video its based on Microcrystalline wax and has superior water repellency
@@cameronmcpeak5183 Thank you for the answer! I'll look into that
@@cameronmcpeak5183 Hello again... I've came about some reading and now I'm convinced that filson wax (barbour too..) is plain veterinarian petroleum jelly. It freezes below -40 celsius and melts above +50, also very sticky and consistent with maintaining density, no cracks or rips when stretched. Sounds about right for the task.
@@user-lc9rk8pj7v
After much experimentation, I've come to a similar conclusion. Most of the formulas circulating on the web (especially the beeswax/paraffin wax + solvent + BLO variants) end up with a much stiffer garment than a factory finished one, particularly in the case of Barbour. This is not necessarily a bad thing, and in fact the extra stiffness is useful for going through thick brush and briar. The problem is that the jacket immediately acquires a very battered look,. Not a well used patina, but just a battered look with lots of yellowish creases and rumpling in the flex areas and all over. This is less of a problem with the lighter colored Filsons but darker colored Barbours (olive and dark blue) don't turn out well.
The way to get over this seems to be to add either mineral oil (i.e. liquid paraffin) or vaseline to the mix and end up with a softer wax and more pliable garment.
I've also found that the more popular formulas involving a solvent (mineral spirits or turpentine) don't hold up well in storage. The solvent just evaporates after a while, as it is meant to on the garment, and you lose whatever benefits it was supposed to provide.
I'm inclined to try a simple mix of petroleum jelly + beeswax and and maybe add some boiled lindseed oil, something on the order of 70 + 30 +10.
Are you able to point to any reading material suggesting that Filson and Barbour wax are just (or mostly) petroleum jelly, I'd be interested in looking a bit further into that.
Have you ever tried putting a newly waxed garment in a cotton bag and throw it in the drier?
Iv done that with some leather jackets for break in. But not for any of my waxed stuff. I always figure i had better focus in these seams while I’m waxing/ heating the jacket and at that point i just heat the whole thing
Ciano Farmer😉the best
Thanks
No problem!
Bought one 5 years ago. Never worn it. Listed for sale. Stupid ‘damp’ with wax. Could never wear in truck because I didn’t want to wax my seats. Also, never wore because I couldn’t decide which shirt I wanted to destroy with the smell of the jacket. 😑
Troll is troll I guess
I had a similar problem and couldn't get a mildew smell out no matter what I tried. I finally broke the rules and washed it in the washing machine a few times, letting it air dry. Rewaxed it after to my liking and problem's solved. A better option is to go on the filson website and go to their repairs page and use the third party website they provide for a good cleaning it's just like 80 bucks. Worth it for a good heirloom jacket though
Leave the jacket and wax outside for an hour in the summer and you wont need the hair dryer.
You take wax. And a heat gun. Soak as much wax into it as you can. And go hit the timber.