Just installed their distributor in my 318, straightforward installation and easy setup. First saw them on the thunderhead video and then watched your installation video before purchasing. Car is running better than ever and I haven't even started fine tuning my carb or timing tables yet. It's a great system for getting the most out of your engine.
I know ,many old school guys like to stick with old school tunning, that's fine but with so many variables and inconsistent fuel quality.Its nice to know that you can make adjustments right from the drivers seat.
Your vid is still helping hot rodders . After leaving a car show this summer with the best engine award, the ol girl started breaking up while romping on the loud pedal. The msd 6al box was the issue. After watching your real world review I decided to give Progression Ignition a shot. Easy install, I added a boost retard cell line. Cold start table and three favorite tables. Runs better than ever and virtually no blow by mist now ! 6-71 supercharged SBC in a 31 model A street rod. Thanks again for taking the time to post the info.
I just installed the progression ignition on my 77 Corvette. I had it running really smooth when it was warm and then I started it a couple of days later and it seems to have too much advance, can you tell me more about how you set up your cold start tables? Thank you!
Its great you and your Dad share the hobby, thats a great thing. I wish I had this relationship with my father. I tried to get my son involved also. I guess its just me..... Also I think they should create an add on temp module that can pair to the app via Bluetooth. This could help the app change tunes dynamically. It could also have a ambient temp sensor to read outside temp. Then you could set parameters for when it changes tunes. Its a great technology regardless. Great videos. 😎 Im putting this on my 440 6pack challenger btw.
Thanks for the update Anthony. Glad to hear it's working out in the Satellite with less risk of detonation. The MSD stuff usually uses springs and bushings, atleast the one on my car
I just ordered one for my 72 Trans Am 455 HO. After messing with initial timing, total timing, vacuum advance ported and manifold, and idle adjustments until I was blue in the face, I decided trying 50 different combinations through the manual adjustment process was more than I wanted to tackle. Hoping this distributor will make it easier to get my engine dialed in and let me move on to something else. I did check my stock coil and found it was at 10.5 volts with engine running. I purchased a Pertronix Flame Thrower II that boasts 6 ohms that I will install along with the new distributor. I've written to P/I asking them if 10.5V is ok. I know you mentioned having 12V constant. I may have a resistor issue to deal with. Not sure yet. Great videos guys! You've totally helped me decide what to do with my engine. I'll let you know how it works out. Hopefully, I'll need new back tires before long!
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 So I got my distributor installed and am wiring up my harness. The kit comes with a gray wire for the tach. The directions show a wire coming from the distributor that simply says "to tach input". It doesn't show where the other end of the gray wire hooks to. My old setup did not have a tach wire attached to the distributor. Simply a wire coming off of my coil negative to the tach. Do I need this gray "tach input" for the new distributor? The new distributor harness red wire is already wired to the coil positive. But I'm guessing that simply provides power and not a tach signal. I may have to contact Progression Ignition on Monday.
@@brucemashburn1579 actually we also went with the small distributor cap and yes the distributor is now providing your new tach signal. You’ll find the signal to be way cleaner, at least we did.
I like those years of satellite's, especially the GTX version! But yeah I'm going to look into one of those distributor's, need to talk to someone from the company about using one with nitrous! Oh, the colder/hotter plug deal also comes into play when running a power adder such as nitrous, you want to run a colder plug if using a power adder! But those dizzys seem really cool, a great idea for sure! Hopefully longevity is good as well!!!
I'm interested in this set up. I have a supercharged Ford Flathead in my 1935 Coupe. I think I can really benefit from the programming to stop any detonation. I have a Mallory Unilite now with my max advance set at 20* to control that and it's been fine. The main problem seems to be that they don't make a unit for a Flathead!!
Unfortunately that’s true, I don’t think they make one for Flathead engines. But you can try and contact them and see what they might recommend, never know unless you ask.
Don't the flathead specialist use modded small block chevy distributors? I have a 304 flathead in my 49 mercury and I was thinking of getting 1 for it since my MSD ready to run took a shit in a parade 😅. I took out the electronic stuff went to a parts store got 80's ford trigger and a module for a HEI to fire it ..but would love to get one of these and get it set up to fit the flathead
Thanks for update 2.0, the plug info was a bonus. The cold, warm, hot tables are brilliant can you share your dad’s cold table? I’m expecting delivery of this distributor next week and hopefully winter will hold off long enough to do some testing. Looking forward to update 3.0
FYI, According to Progression, the coil you had was fine - your coil must have 0.7 ohm resistance or less (for HEI), or less than 1 ohm (non HEI) - the MSD 8207 has a primary resistance of 0.33 ohms
$500 isn't that bad when you think about the cost of brand M and the box to run it back in the day brand M had competition and made good products but now all the aftermarket ignition companies belong to the same investment company so no competition dependability has gone out the window. This system seems like it would be a good investment to not only be saddled with failure which in the last 3 years I have had to call a tow company 4 times and pay almost what this system cost each time. In the middle of a 600 mile trip had to go to uhaul and rent a truck and trailer to pick up my car to bring it home $900 in rental and mileage. I carry a spare coil Blaster 2 and a spare magnetic trigger in the glove box because I am afraid of the car stopping in a town that doesn't have parts to get it running when it stops. Not if it stops next time MSD stuff goes in the trash and I will have this unit in stock ready to go.
One thing that needs to be done in correlation with tuning is installing a 4-pattern cam which provides 2° more duration on the outboard cylinders to help equalize air-fuel distribution over all 8 cylinders. I know that may be the last thing you wanted to do, but there are multiple benefits to doing that. One of those benefits is an extra thousand RPM in the rev range for the engine and it also increases horsepower and torque along with fuel mileage improvement. Then you could see if you need to add more fuel based on how the spark plugs are reading. NASCAR has incorporated four pattern cam technology in their race engines for many years now.
Awesome thank you so much for the tip that is actually something that we might actually try on one of our future engine builds. I’m working on an experiment to try and take advantage of a dual pattern camshaft with the use of some old school variable valve duration and timing lifters to work in conjunction with this ignition set up.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 also look up David Vizard... he's a master of masters when it comes to cam specs and how to maximize an engines potential. I would stick with single pattern duration on a 4-pattern cam. Course what that means essentially is that the intake and exhaust have the same degree duration for the inboard cylinders and the outboard cylinders intake/exhaust duration adds 2° more but remains single pattern duration as well.
I think I'm going to call them and see if they will do a small block chevy one for my flathead, I'm pretty sure that they turn down a chevy and shorten to shaft to fit a flathead
I’m strongly considering getting one, to adjust for altitude, I live at 5000 feet, and need to advance timing up here, and retard timing at lower valley elevations with a denser charge, so much quicker than re-jetting unless I’m wrong about this
No that’s actually a really good way of doing it, also in conjunction with that I would recommend looking into the K&N injector plate for carburetors, it’s basically an add on fuel injection system underneath the carburetor to help with extra fuel needs depending on unexpected or extreme changes like what you’re talking about, Together these two systems work awesome!
I just installed the progression ignition on my 77 Corvette. I had it running really smooth when it was warm and then I started it a couple of days later and it seems to have too much advance, can you tell me more about how you set up your cold tables? Less advance? Increased idle with the choked engaged. Thank you for any advice you can give me!
Of course, it really depends on what kind of cam, compression, and initial timing your engine is setup. But rule of thumb is anywhere from 7 to 10 degrees of initial timing for cold start, with choke closed and rpm set to about 800 rpm, after a couple of minutes, you should be able to run your normal timing settings that you’ve tuned your car for. Please let me know if this helps.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 I do have a more aggressive cam with only 10hg of vacuum. My high idle when the choke is actuated is much higher than the normal 750 rpm I have it set at, should I turn the high idle down?
@@davidhansen7215 also remember that with a more aggressive cam you’re going to need a bit more timing between 2 and 3 degrees more. And the rpm might need to be set a little higher if it’s a manual transmission car
No temp sensor, no knock/detonation detect. Makes me want to watch a few more videos, study some timing tables, and just stick with a well timed distro for now... I am curious what the pressure drop is, in the air filter above the carb, with that tiny black cool air hose feeding the filter, is it choking the carb as it looks to be for a stock single barrel carb.
I see there are other tables cold, warm etc. Does this mean you have to manually switch between each table? I know this does not connect to a temp sensor ( would be nice), but is there any way to set a table for "X" amount of time, then switch to the warm table?
I like yours thinking, we were hoping for a feature like that as well but unfortunately that isn’t available with the current software. However, they have been updating the software so hopefully a timer feature will appear in the near future. Great idea though
Sounds like a awesome product. I was wondering if it could be setup for boosted applications. So that it would take timing away when your car starts to make boost. To keep it from detonation. Does it have a setup for a MAP sensor?
I have been trying to find out from someone here if it is possible to use the progression ignition distributor in conjunction with an MSD 6al ignition box, please give me your thoughts in theory I think it can be used but I may be overlooking something. It seems as though essentially all I am doing is making the progression distributor capable of multiple sparks, is my thinking correct.
Yes it is possible but you have to follow their instructions on it exactly “If using a capacitive discharge ignition box, follow that manufacturer's wiring diagram for a Points/Amplifier Style Ignition. Keep in mind, the distributor’s red wire must be connected to switched 12 volts." The reason I bring this up is because need to make sure the distributor is getting 12v from the switch even while cranking, older cars that originally had points don’t provide 12v while cranking from the switch. Also this part of instruction is really important "The coil used must be designed for electronic distributors NOT points. It must be a high output type with a primary resistance of less than 1 ohm. There are many acceptable aftermarket coils with primary resistance around 0.7 ohms. Be sure that the coil is designed for inductive ignitions NOT capacitive discharge. If you are using a capacitive discharge box, follow that manufacturers coil recommendations." Basically if you are using the distributor by itself it has to have a coil designed for electronic ignition per their spec, if you are using an MSD box use what MSD recommends. Hopefully this answers your question. Please let me know if this helps.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Yes, the ignition coil is for electronic ignition, so, I'm thinking I just need to wire the progression distributer to provide the required 12 volts, then just run my coil wire to the progression distributor, and hopefully, in essence, add a multi-spark feature and hotter spark to the progression unit. Does it seem feasible at least in theory? But!, if for whatever reason you have reservations, I will just bypass the MSD and run the Pro as a stand alone as intended.....But it would really be nice to have that multiple discharge and eat it too. =) P.S. Thanks again also for so timely replying, that was chingon of you bro.
@@bootyman234 no problem, the multi spark MSD box will work just fine and you can still access the timing tables, like I mentioned earlier just wire the Distributor to the MSD box like you would a normal point’s distributor and make sure it gets 12 volts switched power at all times even while cranking and you should be good
I think it would work fine their system is set up to accommodate for that you just have to make sure that the time tables you program are tailored for that camshaft profile
Hi! I got their Distributor too and im having a weak yellow spark, 8mm MSD Streetfire wires and AC Delco R45S plugs. All new. What would be the next thing to check?
Check that you have the correct coil with the proper resistance value recommended for this distributor, it’s pretty specific. Also make sure you have a true 12v signal while cranking, you might have to bypass the stock ignition switch and put in an auxiliary one depending on your setup. Start there and let me know if any of these tips help you thanks.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Today I have checked things listed below: New plugs New wires New battery Power cable to distributor is getting 12v Coil OHM seems good Improved ground to engine Improved ground to battery No difference whatsoever.. The manual points that I CANNOT use Non-Resistor plugs and my plugs are with resistors and I CANNOT use solid core wires. Spiral core/Supression wires are acceptable and Im using ones which have Spiral core.
That’s a great question and one that I’m going to cover on an upcoming video about carb tuning in this specific application. It’s a bit more involved than just a quick explanation…at least what we did for a solution. So keep your eyes open for that
@@jeeplifted1 Well he’s had it for about six months and he drives it every weekend it hasn’t failed him yet… and he drives it for very long distances too.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Just installed their distributor in my 318, straightforward installation and easy setup. First saw them on the thunderhead video and then watched your installation video before purchasing. Car is running better than ever and I haven't even started fine tuning my carb or timing tables yet. It's a great system for getting the most out of your engine.
I’m glad you like it. My dad loves the endless tuning capabilities and simplicity of the setup. I’m glad you liked the video.
I know ,many old school guys like to stick with old school tunning, that's fine but with so many variables and inconsistent fuel quality.Its nice to know that you can make adjustments right from the drivers seat.
Your vid is still helping hot rodders . After leaving a car show this summer with the best engine award, the ol girl started breaking up while romping on the loud pedal. The msd 6al box was the issue. After watching your real world review I decided to give Progression Ignition a shot. Easy install, I added a boost retard cell line. Cold start table and three favorite tables. Runs better than ever and virtually no blow by mist now ! 6-71 supercharged SBC in a 31 model A street rod. Thanks again for taking the time to post the info.
You are very welcome sir, I’m really glad I could help.
I just installed the progression ignition on my 77 Corvette. I had it running really smooth when it was warm and then I started it a couple of days later and it seems to have too much advance, can you tell me more about how you set up your cold start tables? Thank you!
Its great you and your Dad share the hobby, thats a great thing. I wish I had this relationship with my father. I tried to get my son involved also. I guess its just me.....
Also I think they should create an add on temp module that can pair to the app via Bluetooth. This could help the app change tunes dynamically. It could also have a ambient temp sensor to read outside temp. Then you could set parameters for when it changes tunes.
Its a great technology regardless. Great videos. 😎
Im putting this on my 440 6pack challenger btw.
Thanks for the update Anthony. Glad to hear it's working out in the Satellite with less risk of detonation. The MSD stuff usually uses springs and bushings, atleast the one on my car
Nice to see that it is a quality unit and you have seen improvements in the car.
I just ordered one for my 72 Trans Am 455 HO. After messing with initial timing, total timing, vacuum advance ported and manifold, and idle adjustments until I was blue in the face, I decided trying 50 different combinations through the manual adjustment process was more than I wanted to tackle. Hoping this distributor will make it easier to get my engine dialed in and let me move on to something else. I did check my stock coil and found it was at 10.5 volts with engine running. I purchased a Pertronix Flame Thrower II that boasts 6 ohms that I will install along with the new distributor. I've written to P/I asking them if 10.5V is ok. I know you mentioned having 12V constant. I may have a resistor issue to deal with. Not sure yet. Great videos guys! You've totally helped me decide what to do with my engine. I'll let you know how it works out. Hopefully, I'll need new back tires before long!
Thank you so much, I’m really glad you like our videos and if you need any help with it let me know and I’ll do what I can to guide you along
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 So I got my distributor installed and am wiring up my harness. The kit comes with a gray wire for the tach. The directions show a wire coming from the distributor that simply says "to tach input". It doesn't show where the other end of the gray wire hooks to. My old setup did not have a tach wire attached to the distributor. Simply a wire coming off of my coil negative to the tach. Do I need this gray "tach input" for the new distributor? The new distributor harness red wire is already wired to the coil positive. But I'm guessing that simply provides power and not a tach signal. I may have to contact Progression Ignition on Monday.
It almost looks like they want you to use the distributor for your tach signal and not the coil negative as my previous set up was.
Oh and I am using the small cap with an external coil setup. Not an HEI cap. I think yours is an HEI cap.
@@brucemashburn1579 actually we also went with the small distributor cap and yes the distributor is now providing your new tach signal. You’ll find the signal to be way cleaner, at least we did.
Great video. I just got a Progressive Ignition system, haven't installed it yet in my '59 Edsel with an overbored
332.
Nice let me know how it goes
I like those years of satellite's, especially the GTX version! But yeah I'm going to look into one of those distributor's, need to talk to someone from the company about using one with nitrous! Oh, the colder/hotter plug deal also comes into play when running a power adder such as nitrous, you want to run a colder plug if using a power adder! But those dizzys seem really cool, a great idea for sure! Hopefully longevity is good as well!!!
I'm interested in this set up. I have a supercharged Ford Flathead in my 1935 Coupe. I think I can really benefit from the programming to stop any detonation. I have a Mallory Unilite now with my max advance set at 20* to control that and it's been fine. The main problem seems to be that they don't make a unit for a Flathead!!
Unfortunately that’s true, I don’t think they make one for Flathead engines. But you can try and contact them and see what they might recommend, never know unless you ask.
Don't the flathead specialist use modded small block chevy distributors? I have a 304 flathead in my 49 mercury and I was thinking of getting 1 for it since my MSD ready to run took a shit in a parade 😅.
I took out the electronic stuff went to a parts store got 80's ford trigger and a module for a HEI to fire it ..but would love to get one of these and get it set up to fit the flathead
Thanks for update 2.0, the plug info was a bonus. The cold, warm, hot tables are brilliant can you share your dad’s cold table?
I’m expecting delivery of this distributor next week and hopefully winter will hold off long enough to do some testing.
Looking forward to update 3.0
Right on...I bought one for my truck but am afraid to install it lol
It’s actually pretty easy just make sure it a true 12v even during cranking
FYI, According to Progression, the coil you had was fine - your coil must have 0.7 ohm resistance or less (for HEI), or less than 1 ohm (non HEI) - the MSD 8207 has a primary resistance of 0.33 ohms
Thanks for the correction and the info I appreciate it
$500 isn't that bad when you think about the cost of brand M and the box to run it back in the day brand M had competition and made good products but now all the aftermarket ignition companies belong to the same investment company so no competition dependability has gone out the window.
This system seems like it would be a good investment to not only be saddled with failure which in the last 3 years I have had to call a tow company 4 times and pay almost what this system cost each time. In the middle of a 600 mile trip had to go to uhaul and rent a truck and trailer to pick up my car to bring it home $900 in rental and mileage. I carry a spare coil Blaster 2 and a spare magnetic trigger in the glove box because I am afraid of the car stopping in a town that doesn't have parts to get it running when it stops. Not if it stops next time MSD stuff goes in the trash and I will have this unit in stock ready to go.
One thing that needs to be done in correlation with tuning is installing a 4-pattern cam which provides 2° more duration on the outboard cylinders to help equalize air-fuel distribution over all 8 cylinders. I know that may be the last thing you wanted to do, but there are multiple benefits to doing that. One of those benefits is an extra thousand RPM in the rev range for the engine and it also increases horsepower and torque along with fuel mileage improvement. Then you could see if you need to add more fuel based on how the spark plugs are reading. NASCAR has incorporated four pattern cam technology in their race engines for many years now.
Awesome thank you so much for the tip that is actually something that we might actually try on one of our future engine builds. I’m working on an experiment to try and take advantage of a dual pattern camshaft with the use of some old school variable valve duration and timing lifters to work in conjunction with this ignition set up.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 also look up David Vizard... he's a master of masters when it comes to cam specs and how to maximize an engines potential. I would stick with single pattern duration on a 4-pattern cam. Course what that means essentially is that the intake and exhaust have the same degree duration for the inboard cylinders and the outboard cylinders intake/exhaust duration adds 2° more but remains single pattern duration as well.
I think I'm going to call them and see if they will do a small block chevy one for my flathead, I'm pretty sure that they turn down a chevy and shorten to shaft to fit a flathead
Nice sounding Mopar!!
Yeah I bought one for my 383 about 450 500 horse I love it can't beat it it's been the best thing I ever bought for the car
I’m strongly considering getting one, to adjust for altitude, I live at 5000 feet, and need to advance timing up here, and retard timing at lower valley elevations with a denser charge, so much quicker than re-jetting unless I’m wrong about this
No that’s actually a really good way of doing it, also in conjunction with that I would recommend looking into the K&N injector plate for carburetors, it’s basically an add on fuel injection system underneath the carburetor to help with extra fuel needs depending on unexpected or extreme changes like what you’re talking about, Together these two systems work awesome!
I just installed the progression ignition on my 77 Corvette. I had it running really smooth when it was warm and then I started it a couple of days later and it seems to have too much advance, can you tell me more about how you set up your cold tables? Less advance? Increased idle with the choked engaged. Thank you for any advice you can give me!
Of course, it really depends on what kind of cam, compression, and initial timing your engine is setup. But rule of thumb is anywhere from 7 to 10 degrees of initial timing for cold start, with choke closed and rpm set to about 800 rpm, after a couple of minutes, you should be able to run your normal timing settings that you’ve tuned your car for. Please let me know if this helps.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 I do have a more aggressive cam with only 10hg of vacuum. My high idle when the choke is actuated is much higher than the normal 750 rpm I have it set at, should I turn the high idle down?
@@davidhansen7215 750 is ok but you want to aim between 680 and 750, somewhere around 725 is ideal
@@davidhansen7215 also remember that with a more aggressive cam you’re going to need a bit more timing between 2 and 3 degrees more. And the rpm might need to be set a little higher if it’s a manual transmission car
No temp sensor, no knock/detonation detect. Makes me want to watch a few more videos, study some timing tables, and just stick with a well timed distro for now...
I am curious what the pressure drop is, in the air filter above the carb, with that tiny black cool air hose feeding the filter, is it choking the carb as it looks to be for a stock single barrel carb.
1:49 on closer review, I can see the other cool air inlet hose...
BTW great vid!
I see there are other tables cold, warm etc. Does this mean you have to manually switch between each table? I know this does not connect to a temp sensor ( would be nice), but is there any way to set a table for "X" amount of time, then switch to the warm table?
I like yours thinking, we were hoping for a feature like that as well but unfortunately that isn’t available with the current software. However, they have been updating the software so hopefully a timer feature will appear in the near future. Great idea though
Sounds like a awesome product.
I was wondering if it could be setup for boosted applications. So that it would take timing away when your car starts to make boost. To keep it from detonation. Does it have a setup for a MAP sensor?
Yes actually there is a setting for boost in the setup menu, the unit has a map sensor built in.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 awesome.👍👍
I have been trying to find out from someone here if it is possible to use the progression ignition distributor in conjunction with an MSD 6al ignition box, please give me your thoughts in theory I think it can be used but I may be overlooking something. It seems as though essentially all I am doing is making the progression distributor capable of multiple sparks, is my thinking correct.
Yes it is possible but you have to follow their instructions on it exactly “If using a capacitive discharge ignition box, follow that manufacturer's
wiring diagram for a Points/Amplifier Style Ignition. Keep in mind, the
distributor’s red wire must be connected to switched 12 volts." The reason I bring this up is because need to make sure the distributor is getting 12v from the switch even while cranking, older cars that originally had points don’t provide 12v while cranking from the switch. Also this part of instruction is really important "The coil used must be designed for electronic distributors NOT points. It must be a high output type with a primary resistance of less than 1 ohm. There are many acceptable aftermarket coils with primary resistance around 0.7 ohms. Be sure that the coil is designed for inductive ignitions NOT capacitive discharge. If you are using a capacitive discharge box, follow that manufacturers coil recommendations." Basically if you are using the distributor by itself it has to have a coil designed for electronic ignition per their spec, if you are using an MSD box use what MSD recommends. Hopefully this answers your question. Please let me know if this helps.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Yes, the ignition coil is for electronic ignition, so, I'm thinking I just need to wire the progression distributer to provide the required 12 volts, then just run my coil wire to the progression distributor, and hopefully, in essence, add a multi-spark feature and hotter spark to the progression unit. Does it seem feasible at least in theory? But!, if for whatever reason you have reservations, I will just bypass the MSD and run the Pro as a stand alone as intended.....But it would really be nice to have that multiple discharge and eat it too. =) P.S. Thanks again also for so timely replying, that was chingon of you bro.
@@bootyman234 no problem, the multi spark MSD box will work just fine and you can still access the timing tables, like I mentioned earlier just wire the Distributor to the MSD box like you would a normal point’s distributor and make sure it gets 12 volts switched power at all times even while cranking and you should be good
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 thank you bro, you're a gentlemen and The scholar
Very cool! The cap and rotor, are they easily obtainable when they wear out? Just wondering if its based on factory pieces.
Yes actually they are GM units
Thank you
u need to put your coil vertical instead of horz
How do you think this distributor would work with a aggressive cam?
I think it would work fine their system is set up to accommodate for that you just have to make sure that the time tables you program are tailored for that camshaft profile
What is that tablet holder you are using? I wanna get one.
I will have to get with my dad on that one I’m not exactly sure I’ll get back to you soon as I find out
Hi! I got their Distributor too and im having a weak yellow spark, 8mm MSD Streetfire wires and AC Delco R45S plugs. All new. What would be the next thing to check?
Check that you have the correct coil with the proper resistance value recommended for this distributor, it’s pretty specific. Also make sure you have a true 12v signal while cranking, you might have to bypass the stock ignition switch and put in an auxiliary one depending on your setup. Start there and let me know if any of these tips help you thanks.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 In my product the coil is in cap. Im going to work on it in this weekend.
@@AntzAhhh ok in that just make sure the unit is getting true 12v while cranking, we had that problem with ours. Let me know how it turns out.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 Today I have checked things listed below:
New plugs
New wires
New battery
Power cable to distributor is getting 12v
Coil OHM seems good
Improved ground to engine
Improved ground to battery
No difference whatsoever..
The manual points that I CANNOT use Non-Resistor plugs and my plugs are with resistors and I CANNOT use solid core wires. Spiral core/Supression wires are acceptable and Im using ones which have Spiral core.
@@AntzAhhh ok did you make sure that the unit gets 12 volts constant while cranking?
How do you do the more fuel part? Adjusting the carb?
That’s a great question and one that I’m going to cover on an upcoming video about carb tuning in this specific application. It’s a bit more involved than just a quick explanation…at least what we did for a solution. So keep your eyes open for that
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 I will be looking for it. I'm subbed to the channel
@@milkhouse01ja awesome thanks man
It really messed with my stereo system so I sold it on Craig’s list went back old school
Sorry to hear that, we thankfully haven’t had that issue.
How’s it running now?
Still running really good actually
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 I wanna get one just worried it’s like an msd box that goes bad all the time
@@jeeplifted1 Well he’s had it for about six months and he drives it every weekend it hasn’t failed him yet… and he drives it for very long distances too.
@@tailsfromthejunkyard1023 perfect. I think I’ll have to get one