Just came up from the basement using the 650 for 45acp. My wife shoots about 10K rounds a year. She is a NRA master classified Bullseye shooter. These are 3 things we always do. 1 lube the cases. 2 purchase the powder checker alarm. This helps prevent squib and double charges. 3 check the loaded rounds with a gage, we use an old barrel and make sure the rounds drop about .025 below the hood. Helpful tip….After brass is about 4 times fired we deprime offline and clean primer pockets before going on the 650. This eliminates the high primer issues.
The first time that I used new brass on my XL650, I found that the powder funnel was sticking to inside neck of case. Called Dillon, and they recommended some Hornady One Shot. So I prelube all my pistol brass now, whether it's new or not. Press operation very smooth now. I also put aftermarket shellplate bearings and case/primer feed stop switches. The press light is a must. I've had my 650 since 1992 or so and recently bought a 750. (Strongly recommend not using Federal primers on 650- if you do you could have sympathetic primer detonation. That's why they came out with 750. If I'm going to use 650 and Federal primers, I deprime on single stage press.) Additionally, I case check each round of ammo in a chamber checker, EGW preferred.
I use a DIllon 550B. I purchased it new in the mid 80s for $225. It is still running as good as new. I have always wanted to upgrade to an XL650 since it first came out, but my 550B was doing so well and an XL650 was hard to justify at $395. Now, we have the XL750 and the issue is the same. Not complaining- just the way inflation has gone and I remember how much more affordable everything was in times past. I am not sure the XL750 is really that much faster to reload if you are set up properly with a 550B and get the rhythm going right. But, I still want one. Anyway, my main point is, the 550B has some advantages in that it allows manual dexterity. I can easily remove a case at any station and perform checks, fix issues or whatever without it auto indexing. The main things I use this benefit for are cleaning primer pockets with a primer pocket uniformer tool on every loading and trimming my brass after resizing. The theory is it cuts down the effective case flow from sizing a trimmed case to expanding under fire, to just expanding from firing. Brass does not flow totally equally around a case when fired or resized. This is proofed by noticing case mouths can go off square after firing one round and checking the fireformed case mouth for squareness before resizing and checking it again after resizing. What delegates this affect is chamber/sizer dimensions and how much sizing is taking place. I know I don't really have to do it this way and it does interrupt the progressive rhythm, but it ensures more consistent ammo for me. And, I think this could be more important when crimps are considered. The more square your case mouths are, the more consistence bullet release and crimps are. I reload 45ACP, 357 Mag, 40 S&W and 45 Colt on my Dillon 550. Handgun cartridges only. What I would like to know is if I can accomplish the same techniques on an XL750. Great video!
Thanks for video! I use 4 Dillon presses, 550, 650, 750 for 9, 40, and several small cal rifle cartridges. Would love to see anything Dillon related. Their 900 is a dream shotshell loader-maybe you guys take up some clays? More videos on aftermarket fixes for the nuances.
Since switching to an ultrasonic cleaner I've not needed to lube cases prior to reloading. A few minutes in the cleaner, a quick rinse when finished, and then into the dehydrator.
Lube is much better even on carbide dies. I put 100 rounds in a gallon zip lock bag, give the bag a squirt of one shot , tumble the bag and start reloading.
I have the 650. Like the improvement on 750. The only suggestions I would make is a inline fab roller handle and a mr. bullet bullet feeder. The only time I use case lube is larger straight wall cases like 44 magnum or 45 colt.
The problem I always had trouble with, when starting, was stetting the dies up correctly. I also always seem to get a 223 case stuck in my sizing die. Ugh I now always use case lube even with carbide dies. It makes things run better.
I am new to reloading. What am I loading? I have only reloaded 25 rounds (5 rounds each at 5 different powder charges) of .40 S&W for my Sig Sauer 1911 that I shoot in USPSA competitions. I still need to chrono them to make sure I stay in major power factor but as low as possible. What do I want to see? Anything related to reloading pistol calibers now (rifle in the future). I want to learn more about the importance of each step, how to determine when you need to change something, how to change it. Problems to look out for.
I’ve been loading 45 auto with Berry’s plated 185-grn. for a few years. I’ve tested them against more expensive bullets and cannot tell the difference. Great bullets for the price. Hodgdin’s Tite Group is my preferred powder for range ammo. I also prefer America’s pistol over your mama’s Tuberware.
I had to stop and appreciate that there were 223 likes on this video before I went and messed it up and made it 224. Which isn't too shabby either. I'm no Valkyrie but I know one.
Just came up from the basement using the 650 for 45acp. My wife shoots about 10K rounds a year. She is a NRA master classified Bullseye shooter. These are 3 things we always do. 1 lube the cases. 2 purchase the powder checker alarm. This helps prevent squib and double charges. 3 check the loaded rounds with a gage, we use an old barrel and make sure the rounds drop about .025 below the hood. Helpful tip….After brass is about 4 times fired we deprime offline and clean primer pockets before going on the 650. This eliminates the high primer issues.
550 here, pull turn, pull turn. Accurate No. 5!
I wish I could have learned from the ultimate reloader!! Better late than never.
I like to use lube on my brass with carbine dies, I feel it’s smoother.
Thanks for the video guys!
The first time that I used new brass on my XL650, I found that the powder funnel was sticking to inside neck of case. Called Dillon, and they recommended some Hornady One Shot. So I prelube all my pistol brass now, whether it's new or not. Press operation very smooth now. I also put aftermarket shellplate bearings and case/primer feed stop switches. The press light is a must. I've had my 650 since 1992 or so and recently bought a 750. (Strongly recommend not using Federal primers on 650- if you do you could have sympathetic primer detonation. That's why they came out with 750. If I'm going to use 650 and Federal primers, I deprime on single stage press.) Additionally, I case check each round of ammo in a chamber checker, EGW preferred.
have used a 550 for 30 years great loader
Nice job guys ! Kyle is a great addition to the UR family. Best of luck Kyle.
Dillon XL650, 35 years. 9mm, 45 ACP, 44 magnum, 357 magnum, .223. All other rifle cartridges done on an RCBS single stage
I use case lube for both 9mm and 45 whether new or once fired brass. Makes a huge difference on number rounds can load per session.
I have been reloading 45ACP for over 40 years now. Great cartridge!
I use a DIllon 550B. I purchased it new in the mid 80s for $225. It is still running as good as new. I have always wanted to upgrade to an XL650 since it first came out, but my 550B was doing so well and an XL650 was hard to justify at $395. Now, we have the XL750 and the issue is the same. Not complaining- just the way inflation has gone and I remember how much more affordable everything was in times past. I am not sure the XL750 is really that much faster to reload if you are set up properly with a 550B and get the rhythm going right. But, I still want one. Anyway, my main point is, the 550B has some advantages in that it allows manual dexterity. I can easily remove a case at any station and perform checks, fix issues or whatever without it auto indexing. The main things I use this benefit for are cleaning primer pockets with a primer pocket uniformer tool on every loading and trimming my brass after resizing. The theory is it cuts down the effective case flow from sizing a trimmed case to expanding under fire, to just expanding from firing. Brass does not flow totally equally around a case when fired or resized. This is proofed by noticing case mouths can go off square after firing one round and checking the fireformed case mouth for squareness before resizing and checking it again after resizing. What delegates this affect is chamber/sizer dimensions and how much sizing is taking place. I know I don't really have to do it this way and it does interrupt the progressive rhythm, but it ensures more consistent ammo for me. And, I think this could be more important when crimps are considered. The more square your case mouths are, the more consistence bullet release and crimps are. I reload 45ACP, 357 Mag, 40 S&W and 45 Colt on my Dillon 550. Handgun cartridges only. What I would like to know is if I can accomplish the same techniques on an XL750. Great video!
Thanks for video! I use 4 Dillon presses, 550, 650, 750 for 9, 40, and several small cal rifle cartridges. Would love to see anything Dillon related. Their 900 is a dream shotshell loader-maybe you guys take up some clays? More videos on aftermarket fixes for the nuances.
Since switching to an ultrasonic cleaner I've not needed to lube cases prior to reloading. A few minutes in the cleaner, a quick rinse when finished, and then into the dehydrator.
Over 30 years reloading with a Square deal B. 9 mm, 38 Special/357 Mag, 38 Super, 44 Magnum/44 Special, 45 ACP, 460 Rowland, 45 Colt
Lube is much better even on carbide dies. I put 100 rounds in a gallon zip lock bag, give the bag a squirt of one shot , tumble the bag and start reloading.
I have the 650. Like the improvement on 750. The only suggestions I would make is a inline fab roller handle and a mr. bullet bullet feeder. The only time I use case lube is larger straight wall cases like 44 magnum or 45 colt.
What great timing just for my xl750 and my first progressive press having problems with consistent powder charges with ram shot tac
The problem I always had trouble with, when starting, was stetting the dies up correctly. I also always seem to get a 223 case stuck in my sizing die. Ugh I now always use case lube even with carbide dies. It makes things run better.
I had someone tell me years ago to use case lube on my 9mm cases even with carbide dies. It makes a big difference.
I would like you to try your 45 handolads from a rest at 25 yards to the paper with both pistols
I always use hornady case lube, which just makes things so smooth on the 750..
I am new to reloading. What am I loading? I have only reloaded 25 rounds (5 rounds each at 5 different powder charges) of .40 S&W for my Sig Sauer 1911 that I shoot in USPSA competitions. I still need to chrono them to make sure I stay in major power factor but as low as possible. What do I want to see? Anything related to reloading pistol calibers now (rifle in the future). I want to learn more about the importance of each step, how to determine when you need to change something, how to change it. Problems to look out for.
So far I use my 750 for 9mm and 223. I would love to see a trimmer setup and use of the xl750 case trimmer from dillon for 223!
I load 45ACP, 9mm, 38,357mag,,all pistol stuff, then I have loaded 7x61 Sharpe & Hart, 223,308,243,270,7mm Mauser, 8mm Mauser,
Since Dillon 9mm dies are like hens teeth, can I use Redding carbide 9mm dies? I have the Dillion 9mm conversion kit…..thank you, enjoy your videos😀
now if i can just find some large pistol primers
I just got my 750 I'll be loading 9mm 45acp, 6.5 creedmoor , 223 , 30-30, 7mm rem mag , 300 win mag
I always at least use dry lube regardless of the die.
Safety glasses kid
I’ve been loading 45 auto with Berry’s plated 185-grn. for a few years. I’ve tested them against more expensive bullets and cannot tell the difference. Great bullets for the price. Hodgdin’s Tite Group is my preferred powder for range ammo.
I also prefer America’s pistol over your mama’s Tuberware.
What was that powder sensor device? I just added the 750 along w my 650. 1 for small primers and other for large primers.
No bullet feeder die?
The FA X-10 destroys this for a fraction of the price.
lanolin and alcohal
I had to stop and appreciate that there were 223 likes on this video before I went and messed it up and made it 224. Which isn't too shabby either. I'm no Valkyrie but I know one.
liquid Alox
Always lube